Renault Megane 2. The main malfunctions of the car - part 1
LOWER COOLANT LEVEL IN THE EXPANSION TANK
| Diagnostics | Elimination Methods | |
|---|---|---|
| Damage to the radiator, expansion tank, hoses, weakening of their fit on the nozzles | Inspection. The tightness of radiators (engine and heater) is checked in a water bath with compressed air at a pressure of 1 bar | Replace damaged parts |
| Fluid leakage through the coolant pump seal | Inspection | Replace pump |
| Cylinder head gasket damaged. Block or cylinder head defect | The oil level indicator shows an emulsion with a whitish tint. There may be abundant white smoke from the muffler and oil stains on the surface of the coolant (in the expansion tank). Coolant leaks on the outer surface of the engine | Replace damaged parts. Do not use water in the cooling system, fill in coolant suitable for climatic conditions |
ANOTHER NOISES AND KNOCKS IN THE ENGINE
| Scroll possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Check clearances | Adjust gaps | |
| Repair the engine | ||
| worn out toothed belt timing gear drive. Faulty drive idler or support rollers | Inspection | Replace belt. Replace defective timing idler or idler rollers |
| Wear of bearings and camshaft cams, connecting rod and main bearings of the crankshaft, pistons, piston pins, play or seizing in the bearings of the generator, coolant pumps and power steering | Examination | Repair or replacement of parts |
| Lost elasticity or collapsed one or more supports power unit | Inspection | Replace support |
| Low pressure in the oil line (at minimum idle speed, the pressure in the lubrication system of a warm engine must be at least 1.0 bar) | Check the pressure in the lubrication system. You can measure the pressure by connecting a pressure gauge to the oil line by unscrewing the oil pressure sensor | Troubleshoot the lubrication system |
| Wear of the oil pump drive chain | Checking the chain tension after removing the oil pan | Replace oil pump drive chain |
STRONG ENGINE VIBRATION
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Uneven compression across the cylinders more than 2.0 bar: gaps in the valve drive are not adjusted, wear or damage to valves, seats; wear, sticking or breakage of piston rings | We check the compression. Compression must be at least 11.0 bar | |
| Using an ohmmeter, check for an open or “breakdown” of the ignition coil windings and high-voltage wires | Replace faulty ignition coil, damaged high voltage wires. Under severe operating conditions (salt on the roads, frosts alternating with thaws), it is advisable to replace the wires every 3-5 years | |
| The high voltage wires are connected to the ignition coil in the wrong order; one or more wires are disconnected | Inspection | Connect the wires in accordance with the markings on the ignition coil |
| Check candles | Replace defective spark plugs | |
| Open or short circuit in the windings of the injectors or their circuits | Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter | |
| The support of the power unit has lost elasticity or collapsed, their fastening has weakened | Inspection | Replace supports, tighten fasteners |
INCREASED CONTENT OF HARMFUL SUBSTANCES IN EXHAUST GASES
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Nozzles are leaking (overflow) or their nozzles are dirty | Check the tightness and shape of the nozzle spray pattern | Dirty nozzles can be washed on a special stand. Replace leaky or heavily soiled injectors. |
| Damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits - interruptions in sparking | For check high voltage wires and replace the ignition coils with known good ones. | Replace faulty ignition coil, damaged high voltage wires. In severe operating conditions (salt on the roads, frost alternating with thaws), it is advisable to replace the wires every 3-5 years |
| Defective spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the thermal cone, poor contact of the center electrode | Check candles | Replace defective spark plugs |
| Faulty air temperature sensor in the intake manifold or its circuit | Tester check the sensor | |
| Faulty coolant temperature sensor | Replace defective sensor | |
| Check the position sensor throttle valve | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor | |
| Faulty oxygen concentration sensor or circuit | You can evaluate the performance of the oxygen concentration sensor and the reliability of the connections of its electrical circuits using diagnostic equipment | |
| Faulty absolute air pressure sensor and its circuit | You can check the health of the absolute air pressure sensor using diagnostic equipment | Restore contacts in electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor |
| Faulty computer or its circuits | Restore contacts in electrical circuits. Replace faulty ECU | |
| Leakage of the exhaust system in the area between exhaust manifold and downpipe | Inspection at medium speeds of the crankshaft | Replace defective gasket, tighten threaded connections |
| Faulty catalytic converter | Check serviceability catalytic converter exhaust gases can be used with diagnostic equipment | Replace catalytic converter |
| Increased pressure in the fuel system due to a malfunctioning pressure regulator | Inspection, checking with a manometer the pressure in the fuel system (no more than 3.5 bar) at idle | |
| Increased resistance to air flow in the intake tract | Check element air filter, intake tract (no foreign objects, leaves, etc.) | Clean the intake tract, replace the dirty air filter element |
| Entry of large amounts of oil into the combustion chambers of the engine due to wear or damage to valve stem seals, valve stems, valve guides, piston rings, pistons and cylinders | Inspection after engine disassembly | Repair the engine |
Clutch does not fully engage (slips)
| Pads of a conducted disk are strongly worn out | Replace driven disk |
| Lubrication of the flywheel, drive plate, friction linings | Rinse the driven and driving discs with white spirit or gasoline, wipe the working surfaces of the discs and flywheel. Eliminate the cause of oiling (replace oil seals) |
| Drive disk failure | Replace driven disk |
| Faulty drive plate diaphragm spring |
Clutch won't disengage (drives)
| Possible reasons malfunctions | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Air in hydraulic clutch release | Bleed the hydraulic clutch release |
| Distortion or distortion of the driven disk | Replace driven disk |
| Wear of the petals of the diaphragm spring at the point of contact with the release bearing | Replace Drive Disc Assembly |
| Jamming of the hub of the driven disk on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox | Inspect the splines, if the hub is significantly damaged, replace the driven disk. Before assembly, apply SHRUS-4 grease to the splines of the gearbox shaft |
| The driven disk is “glued” to the flywheel or the drive disk (after a long stop) | Chock the wheels, engage first gear and apply the parking brake. While simultaneously depressing the brake and clutch pedals, turn the starter crankshaft engine |
Clutch pedal "fails" or is pressed very easily
Jerks when starting
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Oiling the working surfaces of the friction linings of the driven disk | Remove the driven and driving discs, wash the parts with white spirit or gasoline, wipe the working surfaces of the discs and flywheel. Eliminate the cause of oiling (replace the oil seal of the gearbox or engine) |
| The friction linings of the driven disk are badly worn | Replace driven disk |
| Settlement or breakage of the springs of the damper of torsional vibrations, wear of the driven disk | Replace driven disk |
| Deformation of the driven disk | Replace driven disk |
| Loss of elasticity of springs of a conducted disk | Replace driven disk |
| Jamming of the driven disk on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox, severe wear of the splines of the disk hub | In case of severe wear of the splines of the hub, replace the driven disk. Apply SHRUS-4 grease to the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox |
| Clutch diaphragm spring failure | Replace Drive Disc Assembly |
| Faulty powertrain mounts | Inspect supports, replace faulty ones |
Noise when disengaging or engaging the clutch
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Worn clutch pedal bushings | Remove the pedal, replace the bushings of its axis |
| Strong draft, breakage of the springs of the damper of torsional vibrations | Replace driven disk |
| Loose fastening or breakage of the friction linings of the driven disk | Replace driven disk |
| Severe wear or damage to the clutch release bearing | Replace the bearing assembly with the working cylinder |
Noise in the gearbox (noise disappears when the clutch is released)
Noise in the gearbox (noise when driving in a certain gear)
Transmissions are hard to turn on
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Faulty clutch | Carry out troubleshooting with clinging |
| Defective (broken, frayed, stuck in sheath) select cable or shift cable | Replace defective cable |
| Replace mechanism | |
| Worn or damaged gear shift mechanism | |
| Worn gear synchronizers | Repair or replace gearbox |
Transmission randomly turns off
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Gearshift mechanism worn out | Repair or replace gearbox |
| Worn or damaged gearbox control mechanism | Carry out troubleshooting "Transmissions are difficult to turn on" |
| Worn gearbox synchronizer gear clutches | Repair or replace gearbox |
Oil leak from the box
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Worn input shaft seals, gearshift or wheel drive shafts | Replace defective seal |
| Oil leakage through crankcase joints | Repair the gearbox |
| Oil leakage through the sensor reversing and vehicle speed sensor | Install the reverse sensor on the sealant. Replace speed sensor rubber o-rings |
Automatic transmission fluid leak
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Transmission fluid leaking through oil pan seal | Fluid leaks on the gearbox housing. Tighten the sump fixing screws, replace the sump gasket |
| Fluid leak from under the level indicator | Insert the pointer all the way, replace it if necessary |
| Fluid leaking from coolant fittings | Tighten fittings |
ENGINE DOES NOT DEVELOP FULL POWER
THE VEHICLE DOES NOT HAVE SUFFICIENT DRIVE. JERKS AND DISPENSES DURING MOVEMENT
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Inspect the exhaust system for dented and damaged pipes, check the condition of the catalytic converter (back pressure) (SRT) | ||
| Intake of foreign air into the intake tract | Inspect the joints, check the fit of the throttle assembly, absolute pressure and air temperature sensors. Switch off for a short time vacuum booster brakes by plugging the inlet pipe fitting | Replace gaskets, O-rings, parts with deformed flanges, faulty vacuum booster |
| Incomplete throttle opening | Determined visually on a stopped engine | Adjust throttle actuator |
| Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11.0 bar): wear or damage to valves, their guide bushings and seats, occurrence or breakage of piston rings | Check compression | Replace defective parts |
| The gaps between the electrodes of the candles do not correspond to the norm | Check clearances | By bending the side electrode, set the desired gap or replace the candles |
| Strong soot on the electrodes of the spark plugs; ingress of soot particles into the gap between the electrodes | Inspection | Check and replace spark plugs if necessary |
| Damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits | Replace damaged ignition coil, high voltage wires | |
| There is not enough fuel in the tank | According to the level indicator and fuel reserve indicator | Top up fuel |
| Clogged fuel filter, water that got into the power system froze, fuel pipes were deformed | Check the pressure in the fuel system | Replace fuel filter. In winter, put the car in a warm garage, blow out the fuel lines. Replace defective hoses and tubes |
| The fuel pump does not create the necessary pressure in the system | Check the pressure in the fuel system, make sure the strainer of the fuel module is clean | Clean the fuel module strainer. Faulty fuel pump, pressure regulator replace |
| Poor contact in the fuel pump power circuit (including ground wires) | Checked with an ohmmeter | Strip contacts, crimp wire lugs, replace faulty wires |
| Faulty injectors or their circuits | Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter (no open circuit or short circuit) | Replace faulty injectors, ensure contact in electrical circuits |
| Faulty air temperature sensor or its circuit | Check the sensor and its circuits | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Faulty absolute air pressure sensor or its circuit | You can evaluate the performance of the absolute air pressure sensor using diagnostic equipment at the service station | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Repair damaged electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor | ||
| Faulty computer or its circuits | To check the ECU, replace it with a known good one. | Replace faulty ECU |
| Valve clearance not adjusted | ||
| Strong wear of the camshaft cams | Inspection when disassembling the engine at the service station | Replace a worn camshaft at a service station |
| Sediment or broken valve springs | Inspection during engine disassembly | |
| Faulty throttle position sensor or circuit | Check Throttle Position Sensor | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Faulty coolant temperature sensor | Check the resistance of the sensor with a tester at different temperatures | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
POP IN THE INLET LINE
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Valve clearance not adjusted | Check valve clearances | Adjust valve clearances |
| Inlet valves sticking in the guide bushings: gum deposits on the surface of the valve stem or bushing, sediment or broken valve springs | Inspection during engine disassembly (SRT) | Repair the engine (SRT) |
| Valve timing broken | Check valve timing | Set the correct relative position of the crankshaft and camshaft. Check compression |
SHOTS IN THE SILENCER
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Valve clearance not adjusted | Check valve clearances | Adjust valve clearances |
| Exhaust valves sticking in bushings: increased wear of the valve stem or bushing, sediment or broken valve springs | Inspection during engine disassembly | Repair the engine at the service station |
| Valve timing broken | Check valve timing | Set the correct relative position of the shafts. Check compression |
| Candles are checked at a special stand (SRT). The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude that it is working | Replace spark plugs | |
| Damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits - interruptions in sparking | Using an ohmmeter, check for an open or “breakdown” (short to ground) of the ignition coil windings, high-voltage wires | Replace the faulty ignition coil, damaged high-voltage wires (when disconnecting the wire, pull on its tip). In severe operating conditions, it is advisable to replace the wires every 3-5 years |
| Faulty injectors | Check the operation of the injectors |
INCREASED OIL CONSUMPTION (OVER 500 G PER 1000 KM)
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Oil leakage through: crankshaft and camshaft seals; gaskets of the oil pan, cylinder head; oil pressure sensor; oil filter sealing ring | Wash the engine, then after a short run inspect for possible leaks | Tighten the fastening elements of the cylinder head, cylinder head cover, oil pan, replace worn oil seals and gaskets |
| Wear, loss of elasticity of oil seals (valve seals). Wear of valve stems, guide bushings | Inspection of parts when disassembling the engine | Replace worn parts |
| Wear, breakage or coking (loss of mobility) of piston rings. Wear of pistons, cylinders | Inspection and measurement of parts after engine disassembly | Replace worn pistons and rings. Boring and honing cylinders |
| Use of oil of the wrong viscosity | - | Change oil |
| Clogged crankcase ventilation system | Inspection | Clean the ventilation system |
INCREASED FUEL CONSUMPTION
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Clogged air filter element | Check the condition of the air filter element | Blow out or replace the air filter element |
| Leakage of the power system | Gasoline smell, fuel leaks | Check the tightness of the connections of the fuel system elements; if a malfunction is found, replace the corresponding components |
| Faulty spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the thermal cone, poor contact of the central electrode | Candles are checked on a special stand at the service station. The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude that it is working | Replace spark plugs |
| Throttle Actuator Malfunction | Check the stroke of the “gas” pedal, the gap in the drive (free play of the pedal), make sure that the cable and pedal are not jammed | Replace defective parts, lubricate the cable with engine oil |
| Faulty regulator idle move or his chains | Substitute a known-good regulator. | Replace failed regulator |
| Throttle not fully closing | The gap between the throttle valve and the walls of the housing is visible through the light | Replace Throttle Assembly |
| Increased pressure in the fuel line due to a malfunction of the pressure regulator | Check the pressure in the fuel system with a pressure gauge (no more than 3.5 bar) | Replace failed regulator |
| Nozzle leakage | Check injectors | Replace faulty injectors |
| Faulty coolant temperature sensor or circuit | Check the resistance of the sensor with an ohmmeter at different temperatures | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Faulty oxygen concentration sensor | You can evaluate the performance of the oxygen concentration sensor and the reliability of the connections of its electrical circuits using diagnostic equipment at the service station | Repair damaged electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Faulty computer or its circuits | Substitute a known-good ECU to test. | Replace faulty ECU, repair damaged electrical circuits |
| Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11.0 bar): gaps in the drive are not adjusted, wear or damage to valves, their guide bushings and seats, occurrence or breakage of piston rings | Check compression | Adjust valve clearances. Replace defective parts |
| Faulty throttle position sensor, absolute pressure and air temperature sensors in the intake manifold or their circuits | Check sensors and their circuits | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor (sensors) |
| Increased resistance to the movement of gases in the exhaust system | Inspect the exhaust system for dented and damaged pipes, check the condition of the catalytic converter | Replace damaged exhaust system components |
| Malfunctions of the running gear and brake system | Check chassis components and brake system | Adjust the wheel alignment, replace the faulty parts of the chassis, repair the brake system |
ENGINE KNOCKING (HIGH-STROKE METALLIC KNOCKS, GENERALLY OCCURRED WHEN THE ENGINE IS WORKING UNDER LOAD, ESPECIALLY AT LOW RPM, FOR EXAMPLE, LOAD ACCELERATION, ETC., AND DISAPPEARING WHEN THE LOAD REDUCES)
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| - | ||
| Engine overheating | According to the coolant temperature gauge | Eliminate the cause of overheating ( "The engine gets very hot") |
| Inspection after removal of the cylinder head | Eliminate the cause of carbon formation ( Carry out troubleshooting "Increased fuel consumption" ,"Increased oil consumption"). Use oils of the recommended viscosity and low ash content if possible. | |
| Using spark plugs with the wrong glow rating | - | Use spark plugs recommended by the manufacturer |
INSUFFICIENT OIL PRESSURE (LOW OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL ON)
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Little oil in the engine | According to the oil level indicator | Add oil |
| out of order oil filter | Substitute a filter with a known good one. | Replace defective oil filter |
| Loose tightening of drive pulley bolt auxiliary units | Check bolt tightness | Tighten bolt to specified torque |
| Clogging of the oil receiver mesh | Inspection | clear the grid |
| Misaligned, clogged oil pump relief valve or weakened valve spring | Inspection when disassembling the oil pump | Clean or replace faulty relief valve. Replace pump |
| Oil pump gear wear | Replace oil pump | |
| Excessive clearance between bearing shells and crankshaft journals | It is determined by measuring parts after disassembling the oil pump (at the service station) | Replace worn liners. Replace or repair crankshaft if necessary |
| Faulty sensor insufficient pressure oils | We unscrew the low oil pressure sensor from the hole in the cylinder head and install a known-good sensor instead. If at the same time the indicator goes out while the engine is running, the inverted sensor is faulty | Replace faulty low oil pressure sensor |
ENGINE OVERHEATS (ENGINE OVERHEAT LIGHT ON)
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Faulty thermostat | Check the thermostat | Replace defective thermostat |
| Insufficient amount of coolant | The fluid level is below the "MIN" mark on expansion tank | Eliminate leaks. Add coolant |
| A lot of scale in the cooling system | - | Flush the cooling system with a descaling agent. Do not use hard water in the cooling system. Dilute concentrated antifreeze only with distilled water. |
| Radiator cells dirty | Inspection | Flush the radiator with a high pressure water jet |
| Faulty coolant pump | Remove the pump and inspect the assembly | Replace pump assembly |
| Cooling fan does not turn on | Check fan circuits | Restore contact in electrical circuits. Faulty fuse, relay, cooling fan, temperature sensor, ECU - replace |
| Unacceptably low octane number of gasoline | - | Fill your car with fuel recommended by the manufacturer |
| A lot of carbon deposits in the combustion chambers, on the bottoms of the pistons, valve plates | Inspection after removing the engine cylinder head | Eliminate the cause of carbon formation (see. "Increased fuel consumption" ,"Increased oil consumption"). Use recommended viscosity oil with low ash content if possible. |
| Breakthrough of exhaust gases into the cooling system through a damaged cylinder head gasket | The expansion tank smells of exhaust gases and bubbles pop up | Replace the cylinder head gasket. Check for flatness of the cylinder head |
ENGINE COOLING FAN IS CONSTANTLY RUNNING (EVEN ON A COLD ENGINE)
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| An open in the coolant temperature sensor or its circuit | The sensor and circuits are checked with an ohmmeter | Restore contact in electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor |
| Fan relay contacts not opening | Check by tester | Replace faulty relay |
| Faulty computer or its circuits | Check the ECU or substitute with a known good one | Replace faulty ECU |
Prices for Renault Megane II (2003-2009) were initially quite affordable. Add to them an avant-garde appearance for the early 2000s and good equipment - and here is the secret of its former popularity. On the secondary market Megan is no less attractive, and it gets cheaper pretty quickly. Maybe for a reason?
Europeans fell in love with the extravagant hatchback, which in 2003, a year after its debut, became the European Car of the Year, and a year later took first place in sales in the "absolute". Our favorite is a more spacious and practical sedan (80% of sales), which was launched in 2004 in Bursa, Turkey. And all station wagons (15% of sales) are of Spanish assembly.
Any of the bodies, regardless of the type or place of production, is well protected from corrosion - the metal panels are galvanized, and the front fenders and the trunk floor are made of polypropylene. But who is without sin? Rust may appear on rear wheels arches with paint worn down to the metal - by the way, keep an eye on the integrity of the anti-gravel stickers on the rear fenders, which are easily torn off by a strong stream of water during washing.
The salon even after the change of generations does not look outdated, but with age it “gets out” of squeaks, and the head unit VDO Dayton of cars older than 2007 is prone to failures
Short chain mail - the limp carpeting crawls out from under the overlays at every opportunity
Power windows are not reliable, and the fabric of the door upholstery is resistant to salting. The rubber-plastic coating of the inner door handles, with intensive use, begins to peel off after a couple of years
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Cause premature exit failure of the support bearings of the front struts - insufficient protection against dirt. The electric power steering (1700 euros) is not repairable and must be replaced in case of any malfunction
The DP0 automatic transmission is a real time bomb that can "jerk" after 60-80 thousand kilometers
There are no special complaints about mechanical gearboxes, but be sure to check the condition of the oil seals and gaskets so that they do not leak
When replacing a faulty phase shifter on gasoline engines of the K4M and F4R models, a new timing belt will be required without fail
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Rubber glass seals peel off on their own, and for hatchbacks produced in 2005, for no apparent reason, they can shatter rear glass- when buying, make sure that the former owner did not ignore the branded revocable company.
Sedans were marked by an even more exotic problem - during severe frosts their roofs can bulge! The peak of the epidemic happened in the harsh winter of 2006, and the thermal and sound insulation firmly glued to the roof panel was to blame - shrinking from the cold, it pulled metal along with it. Since 2007, mats made of a different material have been used, and traces of roof repairs on older cars are not at all a sign of their accident rate in the past.
Renault is trying to position the Scenic compact MPV as an independent model, but technically it is the same Megane II
The body of the SS coupe-cabriolet, when driving on rough roads, noticeably “plays”, and the components of the folding hardtop become loose over time
Wheelbase the sedan is 65 mm larger than the hatchback, but due to the sloping roof and littered pillars, it is less comfortable to sit in the back
The fastest of the Megans, RS with "supercharged" up to 224-230 hp. two-liter engine F4R, outwardly almost did not stand out
Five-door hatchbacks are rare on our roads, and three-doors are completely exotic
The station wagon is built on the same platform with an extended wheelbase as the sedan. Due to the Spanish assembly, the new one cost 60 thousand rubles more, so it did not win the same popularity
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Dampness does not spare the electrician: the contacts of the lamps are oxidized (for pre-styling sedans older than 2006, the diffuser is also melted from local overheating), the xenon ignition units (200 euros each) fail. The electric drives of the door glasses (300 euros) are poorly protected from water, and their control buttons do not shine with reliability even when dry.
The "climate" of the cabin is equally likely to go on strike due to a failure of the fan (250 euros), its control unit (180 euros), and after 100 thousand kilometers it is even worse - due to a jammed air conditioning compressor (900 euros). In cars of the early years of production, it was often necessary to change the “head” of the standard audio system under warranty, in which the display did not go out when the ignition was turned off.
The main "consumables" in front - levers and tie rods
The silent blocks of the rear suspension do not differ in particular survivability, but are located in plain sight - it is not difficult to control their condition
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It can be easier to turn off the airbag malfunction signal by inspecting the electrical connector under the driver's seat. Worse, if after 80-100 thousand kilometers the cause is a break in the wiring bus in the steering column - its forerunners will be clicks when the steering wheel is turned, and the entire block of steering column switches (250 euros) will have to be changed.
And do not be lazy at least once a year to clean the drain holes in front of the windshield (for this you will have to remove the wiper arms and the protective plastic casing). Otherwise, you risk not only making a swamp in the cabin and spoiling the thermal and sound insulation of the motor shield, but also unscheduled changing the “trapeze” of the wipers (400 euros complete with a motor): being drowned in the “pool” of the catchment tray, it will not last long.
They do not like dampness and numerous electrical wiring connectors under the hood - it is better to think twice before washing the engine. And it is advisable to treat individual ignition coils (45 euros each) even without washing with a special lubricant at the point of contact with the candle - this is a chance to somehow extend their life. Where the coils are located and how to change them, probably every “mega-driver” knows - this weakness was inherited from the first generation machines. Until 2006, only Sagem coils were installed on all gasoline Megans, which sometimes did not live up to 30-40 thousand kilometers. Then Beru or Denso coils were put on most of the machines - they last much longer.
If the engine does not want to start at all, the search for the culprits should begin with the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors (30-40 euros). A more expensive source of trouble for the most common 1.6 engine (85% of cars on our market) and for a two-liter unit (6% of cars) is the variable valve timing system. Prior to the modernization of the assembly during restyling in 2006, the phase shifter in the gas distribution mechanism drive (500 euros) was meekly changed under warranty, which often became the first surprise for owners of very fresh cars with a mileage of only 20 thousand kilometers. At first, the mechanism quietly wedges, which complicates starting the engine in cold weather, and then loudly declares its fatigue (at first - only after a cold start) with “diesel” rattling - the sealing plates of the phase shifter rotor blades wear out and the latch socket in the stator housing breaks.
Be careful - the low-lying bottom of the plastic trunk is easy to split. On cars until 2006, the rear brake mechanisms were not equipped with mudguards, which leads to accelerated wear of the inner pads.
In winter, the plastic hatch of the gas tank often freezes, and an attempt to open it ends with a breakdown of the latch
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Active drivers of cars with a brisk two-liter engine often finish back support the power unit after 30-40 thousand kilometers (with a 1.6 engine it usually lasts two to three times longer), and it makes sense to change the water pump of any of the units along with the timing belt every 60 thousand kilometers - it is unlikely to reach the next one. By the way, don’t be tempted to change the belt in “Uncle Vasya’s garage”: the pulleys on the crankshaft and camshafts sit without keys, and you need to not only correctly set the phases, but also tighten the fastening bolts correctly - the consequences of turning the pulley are no better than when the belt breaks .
Transmission problems? Available. Manual gearboxes - which are six-speed for two-liter cars, that “five-speed” with less powerful engines - rarely fail by themselves. They can only be blamed for the lever strokes that were indistinct from birth and for oil seal leaks after 100 thousand kilometers (keep an eye on the oil level - otherwise the differential bearings suffer). But jerks at the moment of closing the clutch discs often begin after some 10-15 thousand kilometers. Twitching is especially noticeable when the unit is heated in the heat or when driving in traffic jams - and is not radically treated even by replacing the "basket" assembly (250 euros).
But this is a hint. And a fairy tale is an adaptive "automatic" DP0 (price of 3500 euros), under the name AL4, which bothered the owners of Peugeot and Citroen cars (AR No. 11 and 18, 2009). Debuted in 1999, the unit has been improving all its life, but it has remained capricious. The box does not like to work in a cold state and is sensitive to the oil level (in the absence of a dipstick, it can only be checked on a lift). The oil seals and the torque converter are at risk (a bulkhead will cost 700-1000 euros), but most often - sometimes after 60-80 thousand kilometers - due to strong shocks when switching, you have to change the modulation valves or the entire valve body (200-450 euros ).
The metal of the body is reliably protected by galvanization: the chip in the photo is more than a year old
Anti-gravel stickers on the rear fenders are weak. On the other hand, this car's sticker came off completely
Plastic front fenders are not afraid of light blows, but the bumper latches on them break off with ease
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Known weaknesses in the suspension. Take, for example, the support bearings of the front struts (100 euros) - before the strengthening of the structure in 2007, their warranty replacements due to tapping on bumps also happened after 15-20 thousand kilometers. But when you hear a rattling in the steering column, do not rush to the service right away - this is the norm on every second car: the steering shaft could reach the travel limiter in new cars. The “rail” itself (600 euros) usually requires surgical intervention with the replacement of a broken bushing no earlier than 70 thousand kilometers. As a rule, the steering tips also hold the same amount, but the rods (40 euros each) until then manage to be updated a couple of times - that rare case when it makes sense to put a more durable “non-original”.
The silent blocks of the McPherson front suspension arms could have served 120-150 thousand kilometers if they hadn’t gone into consumption twice as soon, along with levers (100 euros each) with worn out non-removable ball bearings. Of course, non-original hinges can be bought separately, but how strong a lever with a bolted ball will be is an unanswered question.
Halogen low beam lamps do not last long, but change like a Jesuit - to the touch, through the hatches in the front wheel arches
Does the windshield fog up quickly and there is a lot of dirt under the hood? This means that the sound insulation of the motor shield swelled and the seal sagged. To clean the drain pipes, you will have to dismantle the wiper arms and the casing under the windshield. Short-lived ignition coils (they are of different brands on this engine) are easy to change - spare ones in the trunk will not interfere
Surprisingly durable bushings and struts of anti-roll bars, which do not give reason to remember them up to 110-130 thousand kilometers - the same amount is, for example, front shock absorbers (90 euros). Working at a high angle rear shock absorbers(50 euros) is heavier - they often give out their fatigue not with leaks, but with knocks before 100 thousand kilometers, and pay attention to the silent blocks of the rear beam (70 euros) after 100-120 thousand kilometers: if they creak, then they are torn.
You probably already understand why the Renault Megane II becomes so seductively accessible with age. But if the soul still asks for it, we advise you to pay attention to cars after restyling in 2006 (the French call them cars of the second phase) - many "childhood illnesses" were cured, and reliability causes less complaints. How attractive are the prices? Four-five-year-old cars with a 1.4 engine are estimated at 300-400 thousand rubles, with a 1.6-liter engine - at 330-450 thousand rubles - the same price fits, for example, Chevrolet Lacetti(AR No. 14-15, 2010) or Peugeot 307 (AR No. 11, 2009), and more reliable peers Toyota Corolla or Mazda 3 is more expensive. And the most interesting offer is, of course, two-liter Megans: they are only 10-20 thousand rubles more expensive. And, of course, it is better to prefer the "mechanics" - although you will have to get used to the jerky nature of the clutch.
Vladimir Khvatkin
27 years old, Moscow, system administrator
My previous car was also a Renault Megane II, but in a poor Authentique configuration, with a 1.4 engine and “mechanics”. For five years of unscheduled replacements - only ignition coils under warranty. That Megane conquered me with the convenience of the cabin and the comfort of the suspension, so I changed it to a hatchback - also a five-year-old one, with the same mileage of 80 thousand kilometers, but in the Dynamique configuration, with a 1.6 engine and an “automatic”. I knew about the weakness of the box, but on this car the valve block had already been replaced under warranty. But I “hit” the phase regulator of the engine - a few months after the purchase, its replacement, together with a belt and a pump, cost 15 thousand rubles, and then through an acquaintance. Soon, half of the ignition coils had to be changed on this engine (no longer under warranty, 1000 rubles apiece). Further - steeper: due to the closure of the rotten back door wiring, the fuse box first flew, and then the starter burned out (the tow truck and repairs with used spare parts cost 17 thousand rubles). And all this happened in a year and 15 thousand kilometers. In general, my next car is unlikely to be Megane.
| VIN decoding Renault cars Megane II | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| filling | VF1 | L | M | 1A | 0 | H | 33345678 |
| Position | 1-3 | 4 | 5 | 6-7 | 8 | 9 | 10-17 |
| 1-3 | Country of origin, manufacturer | VF1 - France, Turkey, Renault; VF2 - France, Renault; VS5 - Spain, Renault | |||||
| 4 | body type | B - hatchback, 5 doors; C - hatchback, 3 doors; L - sedan; K - station wagon; D - convertible | |||||
| 5 | Model | M - Megane II | |||||
| 6-7 | Engine | 08, 0B, 0H, 1A, 1S, 20 - petrol, 1.4 l; 0C, 0J, 0Y, 1B, 1R, 1Y, 24, 2D, 2E, 2F, 2K, 2L, 2M, 2S, 2Y - petrol, 1.6 l; 05, 0M, 0S, 0U, 0W, 11, 1M, 1N, 1T, 1U, 1V, 23, 2G, 2J, 2N, 2P, 2R, 2T, 2V - petrol, 2.0 l; 02, 0F, OT, 13, 16, 1E, 1F, 2A, 2B - diesel, 1.5 l; 00, OG, 14, 17, 1D, 1G, 2C - diesel, 1.9 l; 1K, 1W - diesel, 2.0 l | |||||
| 8 | Free symbol (usually 0) | ||||||
| 9 | Transmission type | H - mechanical, five-speed; D, 6 - mechanical, six-speed; E - automatic | |||||
| 10-17 | Vehicle production number | ||||||
| Table of engines for cars Renault Megane II | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gasoline engines | |||||
| Model | Working volume, cm3 | Power, hp/kW/r/min | Injection type | Release years | Peculiarities |
| K4J | 1390 | 98/72 /6000 | MPI | 2002-2006 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves |
| K4J | 1390 | 100/73 /6000 | MPI | 2006-2009 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves |
| K4J | 1390 | 82/60/6000 | MPI | 2003-2005 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves |
| K4M | 1598 | 112/82/6000 | MPI | 2002-2009 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves |
| K4M | 1598 | 105/77/6000 | MPI | 2002-2005 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves |
| K4M | 1598 | 102/75/6000 | MPI | 2002-2005 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves |
| F4R | 1998 | 136/99/5500 | MPI | 2002-2009 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves |
| F4R | 1998 | 163/120/5000 | MPI | 2005-2009 | |
| F4R | 1998 | 224/165/5500 | MPI | 2004-2007 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo |
| F4R | 1998 | 230/169/5500 | MPI | 2007-2009 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo |
| Diesel engines | |||||
| K9K | 1461 | 106/78/4000 | common rail | 2005-2009 | |
| K9K | 1461 | 101/74/4000 | common rail | 2005-2006 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler |
| K9K | 1461 | 110/81/4000 | common rail | 2006-2009 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler |
| K9K | 1461 | 86/63/4000 | common rail | 2002-2006 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler |
| K9K | 1461 | 80/59/4000 | common rail | 2002-2005 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler |
| F9Q | 1870 | 130/96/4000 | common rail | 2005-2009 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler |
| F9Q | 1870 | 120/88/4000 | common rail | 2002-2005 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler |
| F9Q | 1870 | 110/81/4000 | common rail | 2005-2006 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler |
| F9Q | 1870 | 90/66/4000 | common rail | 2004-2005 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler |
| M9R | 1995 | 173/127/4000 | common rail | 2007-2009 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler |
| M9R | 1995 | 150/110/4000 | common rail | 2005-2009 | R4, DOHC, 16 valves, turbo, intercooler |
| MPI - common rail multiport fuel injection - common rail injection system R4 - in-line four-cylinder DOHC engine - two camshafts in the cylinder head | |||||
When buying a car for every motorist are very important technical specifications cars. The opinions of buyers are unambiguous in their assessments of the Renault Megane 2 - a decent transport that optimally combines price and performance characteristics, and the technical characteristics are up to par. In this review, you can read both the reviews of the owners and see an analysis of the technical equipment of the car. All this may become necessary when choosing a car.
Renault Megane - how it all began
The Renault Megan model was released back in 1995. The prototype was Renault design 19. Megan was the initial impetus for Renault's corporate identity and donated some of the elements for the Megane Scenic compact van. In 1999, it was completely restyled. Renault Megane 2 was produced in three body styles: sedan, station wagon and hatchback. The presentable exterior and excellent technical equipment caused an increase in demand for the model, the characteristics were very good.
The modified Megan car, 2005, was made on the basis of the Nissan C platform. It turned out to be rather unusual, distinguished by a creative design, had strict body features that distinguished this brand, as well as excellent technical characteristics. Starting with the second generation of Megans, the French automaker Renault has opened a new era. This version of the car won the European prize " best car years”, thanks to what the car had characteristics. The lineup was also complemented by a convertible variant of the Renault Megane CC.
Specifications 2 versions of Megan
In the period from 1999 to 2003, Renault Megan 2 passed under the conditional code "Phase1", and then - under the marking "Phase2". The second version received more improved security. A distinctive feature of the Renault Megane 2 Phase2 was a different interior concept and body structure.
This model range consisted of such modifications, on which one of two engine options can be installed - gasoline with 16 valves or diesel with 8 valves, the characteristics are as follows:
- gasoline internal combustion engines K4J, 1.4 l in 98 horsepower. and K4J732 1.4 l for 82 "horses".
- 115-horsepower engine type B (gasoline) K4M, volume - 1.4 liters.
- 135-horsepower engine type B F4R, 2 liters.
- gasoline F4R, displacement - 2 liters per 163 hp Turbo
- type B F4R, 2 l, capacity 225 horsepower. Turbo RS
- 1.4 liter K9K diesel engine, respectively, with a power of 86 hp. and 106 hp
- diesel engine F9Q, 1.9 l for 115 and 130 hp
The second generation Renault Megane is a classic budget car with good technical potential. Especially popular are the sedan and hatchback versions released in 2005 and 2008.
Platform, interior and car body
The car, released just in 2008, has significant qualitative differences from a number of analogues due to the excellent platform from Nissan, excellent undercarriage, providing a soft ride and reliable sound insulation, despite 10 years from the date of issue. Although the suspension is a little stiffer than desired, it is perfectly adapted to domestic road conditions and there is no discomfort. There is an opinion among drivers that the car has a small ground clearance and a harsh steering wheel, which is especially felt on bad roads. The stability of the car is positively affected by the ABS system. This is more noticeable, of course, in rainy weather.
The Renault Megan 2 interior has several niches for storing “little things”, upholstered in wear-resistant material with plastic elements, comfortable chairs with reliable lateral support are installed. For country trips there is a roomy trunk.
A sedan and hatchback car is suitable for both beginners and pros. For the first group, the simplicity of the functionality is important, and for experienced drivers, good performance and reliability, technical characteristics are preferable.
Many motorists agreed on the excellent performance of the second generation of Megans.
When to Perform Maintenance
MOT is required to pass all Renault Megan 2 cars that have passed the age limit of 7 years. Service pays off, although it is not cheap. After diagnosis before purchase, inspection and maintenance should be performed every 10,000-15,000 km.
According to reviews, motorists can expect the purchase of the following components. After 20,000 km, new stabilizer rods are installed, the steering levers change every 35,000, the steering rack will last 85,000, the ball joints cannot withstand more than 20,000. At the same time, the front struts, given the front-wheel drive, can be replaced as much as 100,000-180,000 km. This statistics on the replacement of consumables is average. Therefore, we can talk about a good motor resource of the second Megan. The service life of Renault Megane 2 can be extended if you use branded auto chemicals and undergo timely maintenance.
At the same time, the Renault Megan 2 body structure creates a number of inconveniences when carrying out repair work, therefore, when performing this procedure, beginners cannot do without a car service. Renault Megane 2 has a special function - a phase regulator. The breakdown of this spare part promises the owner of Megan a lot of trouble. The car won't start normally. Installation of a new phase regulator is carried out only in a block with rollers timing belt.
Reviews speak in favor of the normal handling of Renault, as with other cars. Requires timeliness for repairs and correct operation.
If the service is performed by specialists, then the car confidently shows itself on the track, is responsive to the actions of the driver and is unpretentious.
What equipment is presented on Renault Megane 2
Equipped with Renault Megane 2 on good level. Although the car is already over 10 years old, it deserves respect due to its solid package. technical equipment and reliable mechanics, which is a little better than the non-killable version on the VAZ.
Variations of the layout of this model:
- Authentique had a 1.4-liter engine (manual transmission) and a 1.6-liter engine for both manual and automatic transmissions. Versions: hatchback, station wagon and sedan, 6 AirBag (after 2002 - only two), the ability to install climate control.
- Authentique plus, a simplified version of the base model from 2006, sedan body style, six airbags.
- The Expression was equipped with a 1.6-liter and 2-liter engine in the performance of a station wagon and a hatchback, as well as a sedna. It had power windows, electronically adjustable mirrors, a split system.
- Privilege (1.6 and 2.0) as a sedan only, upholstery made of leather inside, chrome handles;
- Dynamique (1.6 and 2.0) hatchback only, interior trim - leather, chrome handles
The following parties appeared in small numbers:
- Sportway based on the Authentique in 2005 as a sedan, air conditioning was optional;
- Extreme and Extreme II based on Expression released in 2007;
- in 2007, the layout of the Authentique was lightened;
- in 2008, Comfort and Business variations were born.
Features of mechanics and machine
Megane GT assumes a reduction in power than in the standard version. In the case of buying a “stuffed” car, it is safe to say that it has been tuned.
External examination shows good condition engine compartment and chassis. This is evidence of regular and quality service.
Renault Megane 2 with an automatic in the specified configuration options is suitable for beginners. He is quite unpretentious and reliable. Suitable for moderate driving with mixed driving style. The mechanics are more dynamic and suitable for experienced drivers and for those who like to carry out maintenance and repairs on their own. The model has a reliable engine start system, a responsive gearbox, a quick-responding braking system, but not sharp. Good soundproofing of the cabin when the engine is running even at 3000 rpm. Max speed acceleration on the mechanics is 210 km / h.
However, the transmission is not very convenient, especially for former car owners of Japanese models. Distributors say that a number of cars with a machine gun came with a small defect. Therefore, the manufacturer proposes to replace the automatic transmission with mechanical box gears. Megane 2 sedan with manual transmission avoided these problems. To an excellent platform, the designers added a good assembly. On this model, from the first days of production, a reliable “on-board” was installed. The number of controllers is also impressive. It even has a rain indicator. So all technical characteristics are at the proper level.
Air conditioning and climate control
Megane 2, regardless of the body type, it can be a hatchback or a sedan, received an excellent air conditioner from the French automaker, which creates a favorable climate in the cabin even at an outside temperature of +400C. The split system should be regularly serviced and the corresponding channels should be cleaned, then all the technical characteristics inherent in the model will be serviceable for a long time. If this is not done, then after a while you can get smudges in the cabin and possible wiring short circuits that will cause expensive repairs.
Since the idea of creating Perpetuum Mobile has not yet been implemented, the components will wear out. At the same time, despite the choice of the Megan option, you will still be satisfied.
The technical characteristics of the Renault Megan 2 are one of the key points that ensure the popularity of this car, especially in the sedan. We bring to your attention a summary table characteristics Renault Megane 2.
Renault Megane 2 is quite popular budget car. Particularly because of its low price. Although the design of the exterior and interior can not be called boring either. And along with outstanding technical characteristics, this makes it a very good option in the C-segment, of course, its competitiveness is great.
Megan 2 body options
It is produced in hatchback (the most popular), sedan (no less popular) and station wagon bodies. It should be noted that the technical characteristics of the car are directly proportional to the configuration. Basically the same as a set of options. The comfort level of Renault Megan 2 is also at its best.
In general, this is a good car for the money.
Characteristics Renault Megane 2
| Version | Renault Megane sedan 1.6 MT ExtremeII | Renault Megane sedan 2.0 MT Business |
| Price | 627 400 rub. | 750 800 Rub. |
| Engine | ||
| engine's type | Petrol | Petrol |
| Number of cylinders | 4 | 4 |
| Number of valves per cylinder | 4 | 4 |
| Working volume, cm³ | 1598 | 1998 |
| Configuration | inline | inline |
| Maximum power, hp | 110 | 135 |
| Maximum power revolutions, rpm | 6000 | 5500 |
| Maximum torque, N∙m | 151 | 191 |
| Turnovers of the maximum torque, rpm | 4250 | 3750 |
| intake type | Injector | Injector |
|
|
||
| Body | ||
| Number of seats | 5 | 5 |
| Length, mm | 4498 | 4498 |
| Width, mm | 1777 | 1777 |
| Height, mm | 1460 | 1460 |
| Wheel base, mm | 2686 | 2686 |
| Front wheel track, mm | 1518 | 1510 |
| Rear wheel track, mm | 1514 | 1506 |
| Ground clearance, mm | 120 | 120 |
| Turning diameter, m | 10.7 | 10.7 |
| Trunk volume, l | 520 | 520 |
| Trunk volume maximum, l | 520 | 520 |
| Curb weight, kg | 1200 | 1275 |
| Gross weight, kg | 1750 | 1825 |
| Performance characteristics | ||
| Maximum speed, km/h | 193 | 202 |
| Acceleration time 0 - 100 km/h, s | 11.1 | 9.4 |
| Fuel consumption | ||
| Combined cycle, l/100 km | 6.8 | 8 |
| City cycle, l/100 km | 8.8 | 10.9 |
| Country cycle, l/100 km | 5.7 | 6.4 |
| Recommended fuel | AI-95 | AI-95 |
| Capacity fuel tank, l | 60 | 60 |
| Transmission | ||
| Transmission | Mechanical | Mechanical |
| Number of gears | 5 | 6 |
| Drive unit | Front | Front |
| Suspension and brakes | ||
| Front suspension | Independent - McPherson | Independent - McPherson |
| Rear suspension | Semi-dependent - torsion beam | |
| Front brakes | Disc ventilated | Disc ventilated |
| Rear brakes | Disk | Disk |
| Tires and wheels | ||
| Front tires | 195/65R15 | 205/55R16 |
| rear tires | 195/65R15 | 205/55R16 |
| Front discs | 15X6.5J | 16X6.5J |
| rear discs | 15X6.5J | 16X6.5J |
| Steering | ||
| Amplifier type | Electric | Electric |
| Country of Origin | ||
| Country of Origin | France | France |
| Equipment | ||
| Passive safety | ||
| Driver airbag | eat | eat |
| Passenger airbag | eat | - |
| Passenger airbag with deactivation function | - | eat |
| Curtain airbags | eat | eat |
| Side airbags, front | eat | eat |
| Automatic activation of the alarm during emergency braking | eat | eat |
| mount for child seat ISOFIX | eat | eat |
| Active safety and suspension | ||
| Anti-Lock Braking System | eat | eat |
| Brake force distribution system | eat | eat |
| Help with emergency braking | eat | eat |
| System exchange rate stability | - | optional |
| Exterior | ||
| Steel rims | eat | - |
| Alloy wheels | optional | eat |
| Body paint metallic | optional | optional |
| Door handles in body color | eat | eat |
| Side mirrors in body color | eat | eat |
| Interior | ||
| Fabric upholstery | eat | eat |
| leather steering wheel | eat | eat |
| Lighting devices | ||
| Halogen headlights | eat | eat |
| Fog lights | eat | eat |
| Switching off the front lighting with a delay (Take me home function) | eat | eat |
| Comfort | ||
| Tilt steering column adjustment | eat | eat |
| Steering column reach adjustment | eat | eat |
| Light sensor | eat | eat |
| Cruise control | - | eat |
| Engine start/stop button | eat | eat |
| Parktronic | - | eat |
| Electric drives | ||
| front windows | eat | eat |
| rear windows | eat | eat |
| side mirrors | eat | eat |
| folding mirrors | - | eat |
| Heating | ||
| side mirrors | eat | eat |
| front seats | eat | eat |
| Climate | ||
| Climate control | eat | eat |
| Audio and infotainment systems | ||
| CD player | eat | eat |
| CD changer | - | eat |
| MP3 support | eat | eat |
| 4 speakers | eat | eat |
| Steering wheel audio controls | eat | eat |
| On-board computer | eat | eat |
| Security systems | ||
| Central locking with remote control | eat | eat |
| Immobilizer | eat | eat |
Each person, choosing a car for purchase, considers its technical characteristics. According to many car owners, Renault Megane 2 has the optimal ratio of technical equipment and budget cost of a car. This review included reviews from Megane 2 car owners and an analysis of the technical characteristics of the car that will help you make a choice.
Renault Megane - the beginning of history
The Renault Megan brand first appeared in 1995, it was based on the Renault 19 platform. Megan set a new corporate style for Renault and “shared” platform elements with the Megane Scenic compact van. In 1999, it underwent an almost complete reinstallation. Megan 2 was presented in several versions: 3- and 5-door hatchback, station wagon and sedan. Excellent appearance and technical characteristics together quickly won the attention of consumers.
The restyled car was made on the Nissan C platform, distinguished by creative design and extravagance, which were “personalized” for this brand, emphasized by “chopped” body lines. Starting with Megan 2, the Renault automobile concern very successfully opened new page of its history, in 2003 this model became the "car of the year" in Europe. The series also included a 4-seat convertible Renault Megane CC.
Specifications
Renault Megane 2 was produced in 1999-2005 under the label "Phase1", and after - under the label "Phase2", the main changes new version focused primarily on improving security. Renault Megane 2 Phase2 significantly differed from its predecessors in the visual characteristics of the interior and exterior.
The series included the following modifications, equipped with new engines - 16-valve gasoline and 8-valve diesel:
- gasoline engines K4J, 1.4 l for 98 hp and K4J732 1.4 L for 82 hp
- benz. K4M, 1.4L at 115 HP
- benz. F4R, 2 liters for 135 hp
- benz. F4R, 2L at 163 HP Turbo
- benz. F4R, 2 liters for 225 hp Turbo RS
- diz. K9K, 1.4 l for 86 and 106 hp
- diz. F9Q, 1.9 liters for 115 and 130 hp
Renault Megane 2 belongs to the budget price segment, delighting car owners with its excellent technical characteristics.
Body, platform and interior. What are the owners saying?
Despite its ten-year age, the car qualitatively differs from many models, first of all, by the impeccable Nissan platform, comfortable and reliable running, excellent sound insulation. Suspension is quite stiff, but well suited for Russian roads and does not cause discomfort when driving. Many drivers in their reviews note the low ground clearance of the car and the stiff steering, which is especially felt on low-quality roads. The stability of the latest versions is well affected by the operation of the ABS system, which is especially noticeable on the track in bad weather. 
The interior has durable upholstery, comfortable seats with soft armrests and plastic inserts, and plenty of storage compartments. Summer residents and travelers will like a large comfortable trunk.
The car may be of interest to beginners and experienced drivers. The first ones are captivated by the simplicity and equipment of the car, and experienced drivers note the reliability of the platform and excellent driving characteristics.
Almost all driver reviews converge on one thought that Renault Megane 2 has a very successful and reliable platform that performs well in operation.
Maintenance
Maintenance is a must for cars that have passed the 7-year age limit. Renault service is quite expensive, but fully justifies itself. After carrying out diagnostics upon purchase, we advise you to do maintenance after every 10-15 thousand km.
Car owners can focus on the following costs according to reviews. Stabilizer links must be replaced after 20 thousand km, steering rods are designed for 35 thousand km, steering rack- no more than 85 thousand km will pass, ball bearings 20 thousand km. At the same time, the front pillars - taking into account front wheel drive- will have to be changed only after 100-180 thousand km. These are the average wear rates for the main spare parts you will need for the repair. So, in general, we can conclude that Renault Megane 2 has a good technical resource, especially with the constant use of branded automotive chemicals and competent maintenance. 
It should be borne in mind that the features of the body and design of the Renault Megane 2 suggest some inconvenience in repair, so independent work for drivers with little experience can be difficult. Note that Renault Megane 2 has one curious functional detail as a phase regulator, if it fails, the car begins to experience many problems and starts badly. In this case, the phase regulator is replaced together with the rollers and the timing belt.
All reviews indicate that Renault, like any other car, requires a normal technical approach and timely repairs.
With professional maintenance, the car behaves confidently on the roads, it is perfectly manageable and unpretentious.
Equipment
The owners note the well-equipped Renault Megan 2. Despite its age, the car has an impressive low-level equipment package and reliable mechanics, even surpassing the legendary “indestructibility” of the VAZ.
The model was produced in the following trim levels:
Additionally, limited editions were made:
- Authentique based Sportway in 2005 sedan only, air conditioning included;
- Extreme and Extreme II based on Expression in 2007;
- in 2007, the Authentique package was made lightweight;
- in 2008, Comfort and Business trim levels were released.
Features of manual transmission and automatic transmission
Note that the Megane GT marking means that you have come across a less powerful car than the standard equipment. If you are lucky enough to find a well-equipped car, it means that it has been tuned.
The excellent condition of the chassis and engine when viewed indicates good service throughout the entire period of operation.
In general, Renault Megane 2 with automatic transmission in the above modifications is more designed for novice drivers, while being reliable and unpretentious if you prefer a quiet ride in a mixed cycle. Cars with manual transmission are more dynamic and comfortable for drivers with long experience, suitable for those who are not afraid self repair. The model is equipped with a high-quality ignition system, has a dynamically responsive box, a confident, but at the same time “soft” brake system. The audibility of the engine at 3000 rpm in the cabin is negligible. A car with manual transmission has in practice a speed limit of 210 km / h. 
The car has not the most convenient automatic transmission, it will be especially noticeable for the former owners of Japanese cars. According to dealers, some cars with automatic transmission had a factory defect, in which case you can change the automatic transmission to a manual transmission. These shortcomings are leveled on Renault Megane 2 models with manual transmission. To a high-quality platform, the manufacturer also added a good package. From the very beginning, this brand was equipped with an advanced on-board computer, there is a whole set of necessary sensors, including a rain sensor.
Climate control and air conditioning
Megane 2 is equipped with an excellent climate control system that confidently maintains the atmospheric characteristics of the cabin even at a temperature of +40°C. At the same time, the corresponding drainage must be cleaned, and the air conditioner requires regular maintenance. Otherwise, you will observe leaks in the cabin, which can subsequently lead to a short circuit of the on-board system and expensive repairs.
In conclusion, I would like to say that, unfortunately, Perpetuum Mobile has not yet been invented, and the parts of any car are subject to wear and tear. But no matter which French Renault brand you prefer, you will undoubtedly be satisfied. 