A stool is an integral element, a must-have fixture in any home. You can't call it too expensive or rare to be taken for hand-made, but a hand-made stool is sure to be more durable and elegant than a standard item from any store. This is what we will talk about today.
As with any more or less serious work, you need to be well prepared to create a stool. List of required toolsThe first step is to prepare all the tools that you might need. You need to prepare different tools, as we will look at various photos of stools, from which you can do the work yourself. The list looks something like this:
Materials for making a stoolIn addition to tools, of course, you will also need materials for making a stool. Their list can be limited to the following items:
Possible stool optionsSince stools are considered a fairly common option for seating devices, there are many varieties of them. We believe that it is necessary to consider the most convenient and popular ones in order to know for sure what you can do with your own hands. The most popular options are below:
To dot the "i", we suggest you look at the photos of the stools that we have given in the classification.
The stool, which we want to consider first, is ideal for both the kitchen and the glazed loggia, where you can sit down to relax and drink tea. It will have crossed legs, fastened with timber for greater structural stability. The seat of the stool will be covered with fabric, under which foam rubber will be located. This upholstered stool is the perfect seat for any kitchen. Naturally, in order to do everything right, it’s not enough just to follow the instructions, you need to carefully study the drawing, which we recommend that you do.
Characteristics of the barsTo make a stool, we need to prepare the bars. Their characteristics will be as follows:
Making a wooden stoolWe make legs and base
The first thing you need to take on is the legs of your future stool. Let's get down to business:
The legs are ready and it remains for you to paint their base in the color that you like best. We perform sittingWhen making a stool for the kitchen, a soft seat is something that must be present in its design. Luckily, it's not that hard to make. In order to make a durable seat, you need plywood. Its thickness is not too important, but a thickness of less than 12 millimeters is not recommended, since such a seat will be too flimsy.
Let's get down to business:
Congratulations, the part you will sit on in the future can also be considered finished. We collect a wooden stool with our own handsFinally, a few details of the future stool, your own production, are assembled. But by "assembled", we mean that they are made. And now they have to really be assembled so that the stool can begin to be used. Let's just say - the work is very simple. You just need to attach the finished base to the seat.
Your kitchen stool is made and ready for a long and reliable service.
DIY folding stoolEveryone knows what a folding stool is, and this, by the way, has been known for a very long time. This is an indispensable assistant for fishing, outdoors, this is something that you cannot do without in the country. And instead of going to the market and spending money on a stool of suspicious quality, you can also make it yourself. Stool: dimensions and drawingThe design of such a folding chair is painfully simple, but still, it is necessary to use the drawings so that everything comes out clearly and without unnecessary snags. Therefore, we offer you the ideal drawing for consideration.
Necessary materialsTo create all the necessary elements separately and assemble them into a single whole in the end, you will need the following devices:
How to make a stool from prepared materialsWhen all the materials and tools are collected, you need to start making a chair.
Suitable materials and a small nuanceIn the process of making a folding stool, in general, you can use almost any type of wood. But mainly pines or birches are recommended. By the way, a pine stool will have a very small weight, which is convenient for carrying it often, for use on fishing trips and to the country. True, such a pine stool tends to loosen quickly, and requires periodic tightening of the bolts that hold the structure together. There is another interesting design refinement that will make an already convenient device even more convenient. You can attach a portable handle to the structure of a folding stool. Such a handle is fixed between the inner legs. If you initially take bolts not 4 centimeters each, but 6-7 each, a very convenient handle for carrying the product can be fixed between the inner legs.
Making a stool with your own hands. VideoAt the end of our conversation, so to speak, in order to reinforce the work done, we offer you an entertaining video that tells you how to make a stool with your own hands. The video describes in detail all the nuances and subtleties of making a high-quality, durable and reliable chair at home. After spending half an hour of your personal time, you will finally figure out all the necessary operations and will be able to get to work with confidence. After all, it is not for nothing that they say that you can read it 10 times, but having seen it once, you will surely know how everything is done.
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The stool is a fairly popular element of the interior. It is especially needed in large quantities when the owners like to receive many guests. Can be done.
The stool is versatile and compact, which is why this type of furniture today can be seen in any living space.
But if you are doing this work for the first time, then you should know a few points:
- The most reliable type of connection is the "groove-thorn". But it should be used in the case when you already have carpentry skills. It requires precision when cutting grooves, otherwise the structure will not have durability, and during operation, wood fibers will create a creak.
- The stool is designed for constant movement. Therefore, the material for its manufacture must be selected so that it does not quickly “disarranged”. It must also hold fasteners such as screws, nails or self-tapping screws well.
Both of these points must be considered before making a stool, especially if a beginner takes on the job.
What is the stool made from?
Depending on the style of the interior, you can find chairs of absolutely any shape and material, up to metal. For lovers of exclusivity, you can pick up a stone or glass stool. Although the most popular and affordable material is still wood stools.
The simplest design of such a chair consists of a seat, 4 legs and connecting plates. You can make a stool using the following materials:
- timber 3x30 mm, which will serve as legs;
- two boards (14.5x30 cm, thickness - 2-2.5 cm);
- plywood sheet (thickness 1.2 cm);
- glue;
- sandpaper;
- acrylic varnish;
- screws 4 cm.
If such materials are at hand, then you can safely start making a stool.
Choosing the Right Tools
Basically, the design of wooden stools is not difficult. The main thing is to stock up on the right tool, namely:
- fine-toothed hacksaw;
- Phillips screwdriver;
- drill;
- building meter and corner;
- a simple pencil;
- drill;
- varnish brush.
If there is elementary knowledge of building equipment, then one of the above elements can be replaced with an analogue. But it is better for a beginner to stick to this list so that it is easier to carry out all the work.
Instructions and action plan on how to make a stool
- The very first stage is the preparation of the support, that is, the legs. To do this, the timber is cut into four equal segments 43 cm long. A support for the “fifth point” will be made from the boards, so it is cut into two blanks measuring 14.5x30 cm.
- Plywood will serve as a connecting bar. For this purpose, the sheet is cut into segments of 10 by 27 cm. After that, a groove (1.2x5 cm) is cut out at the wide edges, while maintaining a distance of 3 cm from the edge, equal to the thickness of the leg. The resulting elements are assembled into a square, which will serve as a frame.
- Next, the plywood frame, seat and legs are connected.
To do this, in the appropriate places, it is necessary to prepare holes with a drill, where all the elements of the stool will be attached with the help of screws. To make the adhesion more reliable, the joints can be opened with auxiliary glue. For this purpose, PVA is also suitable. For wooden stools, it will not be superfluous to work on the chamfer, or rather remove it. This will smooth out the edges of the parts, due to which the product will have a more presentable appearance.
The tree has such a structure that when carpentry works with it, burrs form on the surface. In order to polish the stool, sandpaper is used, and experts recommend doing this in two passes. That is, first work with coarse-grained sandpaper, and then fine-grained walk along the top. Grinding helps to eliminate not only burrs, but also to give the entire product a “leveled” look.
The final moment is the opening with varnish. It is best if the varnish is applied in two layers. But only the subsequent opening is carried out when the previous layer is completely dry.
When designing wooden stools, personal safety should also be taken into account. For example, shavings can get into the eyes or a hangnail under the skin. Therefore, you should also think about protective equipment in advance: gloves, glasses, etc.
The second version of the stool design
It was described above how to make the simplest stool with your own hands. But there is another option for more interesting cruciform legs and a soft seat. Here we will talk about such a model further.
To begin with, we prepare working tools and materials:
- wooden beam with a cross section of 60 mm;
- rail (3x6 cm);
- plywood sheet (thickness 1.2-1.5 cm);
- foam material (minimum thickness 10 cm);
- fabric for covering the seat;
- nails, screws, construction buttons;
- circular saw and screwdriver;
- brush, stain;
- varnish for opening or painting;
- marker, pencil;
- measuring tape;
- miter box.
And again, the first step is to prepare the base of the legs. For this, 4 pieces are made from a bar, each 60 cm long. They are cut at 45 degrees. Such work is carried out with the help of a miter box.
When the segments are ready, they must be crossed together in pairs, that is, fastened in the manner of the letter "X". For this purpose, you need to prepare the grooves on each workpiece. The size of the depth of the recess should correspond to half the thickness of the original timber itself. That is, if the thickness of the beam is 6 cm, then the groove is 3 cm. At the same time, it is necessary to control that the legs are tightly fastened to each other and do not crawl out beyond the mark of 6 cm, that is, the thickness. Thus, a pair of X-shaped structures should be obtained.
For the stool to be stable, both crosses must be tightly fixed to each other.
To do this, you need a bar made from a piece of timber. The length of the strap should match the size of the stool. In this case, this is a length of 48 cm. In order to fasten both crosses with a bar, screws are needed. To make the product more presentable, small recesses are made under the fasteners. At the end of all work, these recesses will hide under a special filler or with the help of special plastic caps.
It is necessary to fasten the legs and in the upper part of the cross. Two screws are used for each connection point.
The last moment is just the “hiding” of the screw heads. Also, the legs must be varnished or painted in any other chosen color.
But what is a stool without a seat. In the first case, a variant of wooden stools with a hard seat was given. In the same case, a design with a soft surface is made.
The seat will consist of a hard base, and on top - a soft base. For the lower case, plywood is just intended. Its recommended thickness is at least 12 mm, otherwise the structure will be too fragile and will not be able to fulfill its intended purpose.
In this example, the base has dimensions of 40x60 cm. In general, these are the average dimensions of wooden stools. Such a base is cut out of plywood using a circular saw. Foam rubber should have appropriate dimensions. A cushioning material is also used, which will fix the foam rubber with plywood. This means that it must have an area 30% larger than the base.
Being engaged in a close-fitting product, you should measure the height and width of the resulting seat. It should also be borne in mind that the fabric must be attached to plywood, which means that it is necessary to make an additional margin. It is best when the upholstery material does not have folds at the corners of the stool, so it will last longer without fraying.
In order to fix the fabric, buttons are used. You can attach them in two places: on the bottom and on the sides. If the buttons are the simplest, then they are used for the first fastening, but if decorative ones are available, then they are best placed on the sides. Although for a more reliable fixation, both of these methods can be combined. In order for the stool to have a neat appearance, tight-fitting is carried out only with the fabric stretched.
In fact, to design a stool, you can take absolutely any fabric or even leatherette. It all depends on the interior, the desire of the owner and his financial capabilities.
The last step in assembling such a stool is to combine all the elements into one design. With the help of screws, the seat is attached to the resulting cruciform legs.
As you know, assembling a wooden stool with your own hands is simple. All the necessary materials and tools are easy enough to find at home or even borrow from a neighbor. And at the same time, there is always the opportunity to accommodate all your guests at home, and not run around the neighbors and ask them for spare chairs.
A stool is an indispensable piece of furniture. With it, you can get the necessary things from a high shelf, pick a crop in the country or just sit comfortably in the shade of a tree. Several stools are needed. In order not to spend money on their purchase, you can try to do it yourself. It is easy and not costly. How to make a stool, what is necessary for manufacturing, you will learn from the article.
Popular types of stools
The store offers a huge number of chairs, stools and a variety of furniture. But a handmade stool will always be better, more convenient and more expensive. It is also a matter of pride, the result of mastery and the achieved level of skill. If you involve your child in making a stool, it will be an unforgettable experience and wonderful childhood memories. Or maybe this will serve as an impetus for the development of children's creativity. So the decision to make a chair without a back with your own hands has only positive aspects. How to make a stool with your own hands can be found in the article.
Approach the process responsibly. Need to prepare:
- material for making a chair;
- place of work;
- sketch or drawing;
- accessories.
A popular item in everyday life requires knowledge of some of the nuances in the manufacture:
- making grooves for connecting the legs is an important condition;
- the most reliable type of fastening is a groove - a spike;
- improper cutting of grooves will lead to loosening of parts;
- the stool is often moved, so the use of good fastening units is important.
Stool options:
- in the form of a chair, without a back;
- small, about thirty centimeters in height, more often used as a stand;
- with soft upholstery is widely used in the kitchen;
- children's - an option for a small child;
- folding, for fishing, trade in the market.
Stools children's photos can be viewed in the article. This type of chair is very popular in families with children.
Various do-it-yourself stool drawings
It is best to make a stool for a beginner according to the instructions in order to avoid inconsistencies. A stool is made by hand, following the rules and instructions.
The first rule is to prepare the legs for the chair. The sequence rule is:
- cut four parts from a pre-prepared timber, six hundred millimeters each;
- make bevels at forty-five degrees;
- for a correctly sawn off corner, it is extremely important to use a miter box; this device allows you to make cuts at any desired angle;
- manufactured legs are connected in pairs;
- make a notch - a gap on a pair of suppression legs;
- connecting the blanks, get a cross from the legs;
- prepare a beam of six hundred millimeters for attaching the cross to each other, this is done for the stability of the product;
- connect the attachment points with self-tapping screws;
- “drown” the grooves for aesthetic beauty, close up with a special tool on top;
- connect the cross and at the top.
After making the legs, you should proceed to work on the manufacture of the seat. If this is not a stool in order to get things from the mezzanine, for convenience it is better to make a soft seat. Making a soft top is not difficult at all.
For the manufacture of high-quality top, you must use plywood. There are no exact recommendations, but it is advisable to take plywood thicker than fifteen millimeters into work. If you use thinner plywood, the seat will be flimsy.
The algorithm for making a seat is as follows:
- cut out a plywood blank with a jigsaw or saw, you should correctly draw a sketch in advance;
- cut a piece of foam rubber to the size of the seat;
- cut off the material - the lining, the material should be about a third larger than the seat, the margin is necessary for convenient fastening of the material under the top of the chair;
- the material is laid out in such a queue: matter, foam rubber, plywood;
- tuck the corners of the fabric around the edges;
- upholstery material is attached with staples or buttons with plastic caps, here you need an assistant to pull and hold the material well.
Step by step instructions for making a stool
A stool is a necessary piece of furniture, it can be of any size and from any number of parts. In fact, it is a chair that does not have a back. He will never be superfluous in the economy. Any master who can hold a hacksaw and a hammer can make a stool, even if he has never made anything more complicated than a box before. Following simple instructions will allow you to build a comfortable stool for a summer house or apartment.
If you have solid parts of natural wood, you can make a chic stool that will cost a lot, but will look spectacular. But more often at hand there are only assorted fragments of boards. Even in this case, you can make a stool that will decorate the interior and will perform its main function.
In order for the result of your work to please you, you need to visit the construction market and purchase the following materials:
- several high-quality polished pine or oak boards;
- self-tapping screws;
- bar for jumpers;
- special glue;
- corners for fastening.
Having bought the material, you imagine what kind of stool you would like to have at the exit. All dimensions should be estimated in advance. The main dimensions of the future part for sitting are marked on the board, a decision is made on the height and thickness of the legs. Provided that it is not a children's stool, it is advisable to provide for additional fastenings between the seat and the side stand. Drawstrings will make the stool more durable and eliminate loosening. A small hacksaw is necessary for cutting the material, this will help to avoid chipped areas. At the top of the racks, it is necessary to make a semblance of protrusions, these parts will go into the bottom of the seat. Accordingly, grooves for them are prepared on the seat.
After cutting the materials (which you carefully double-check before cutting out), you can begin to mount the main parts of the future stool. For good fixation, before connecting the grooves of the seat and racks, the protrusions should be treated with special glue and sealed with a bandage for a strong connection. Parts of the chair are attached to the tsargs with self-tapping screws. If the material is of different suits, the surface of the stool should be sanded with high quality. Provided that high-quality material was purchased, putty will be necessary only for the places where self-tapping screws enter.
The first product may not satisfy you. Each next product will be better and more original. The stool will become the subject of your pride, the highlight of the interior and will help to significantly save the budget.
It must be remembered that it is better to make a stool low, not higher than sixty centimeters.
Modern stools
The ability to make an original and stylish sample allows you to expand the scope of stools. The time has passed for them to be only in the kitchen or used to pick apples. In addition to traditional square designs, more and more options for original forms appear:
- oval;
- round;
- bar;
- children's;
- other.
It is possible to make them from a variety of materials:
- different tree;
- plastic;
- metal;
- acrylic.
Such original and stylish stools will decorate any home, as well as public places: cafes, bars, restaurants, pizzerias. But still, wooden stools are preferable for a home environment.
Folding stool on your own
A folding stool is very convenient and practical, when there is no need to use a stool, it can be folded and placed behind some furniture. Thus, it does not take up space at all and is invisible.
The convenience of such a stool was appreciated by fishermen, summer residents, sellers in the market. You can buy a stool and not waste energy on its manufacture. But having done it yourself, you will be completely confident in its quality and get moral satisfaction from using the result of your work.
Making a folding stool is simple, but still, you can’t do without a detailed drawing. Necessary for the manufacture of a chair:
- identical bars, four pieces;
- prolegs;
- seat rails;
- bars for sitting;
- six bolts;
- self-tapping screws.
After preparing the workplace, preparing the drawing, materials and all the tools, you can start making the chair:
- place the axial bolts, they should be fixed along the edges of the legs;
- drill holes, taking into account the place for the hat;
- attach the crossbars to the top of the legs, two on the inside, two on the outside;
- prolegs are installed at a distance of nine to ten centimeters from the legs;
- connect the middle bars, this process is quite laborious and requires great concentration, this is a collapsible mechanism, it is important to properly fix the parts;
- the height of the chair depends on the place of attachment of the connecting bars.
For the manufacture of a folding chair, any type of wood is suitable, pine and birch are preferable. Due to the light weight, it will be more convenient to carry the chair.
Tools for the job
To make a stool, you will need to prepare a workplace and tools. Unless you are a professional carpenter, there is no need to spend your salary on expensive machines and tools. You can get by with simple tools that are in the pantry of any man. The floor surface must be covered with a film, this will help to litter less. To make a stool, you will need:
- electric drill;
- joiner's clamp;
- clamp - clothespin;
- jigsaw;
- saw;
- drill and a set of drills;
- hacksaw for metal;
- wood file (rasp);
- bit;
- screwdriver;
- chisel;
- sandpaper;
- wooden mallet;
- fasteners;
- plane;
But before manufacturing the product, it is necessary to make a sketch - a sketch. This will require:
- metal ruler and square;
- brushes;
- set of pencils.
Material, samples
Any type of wood can be used to make the chair. Of all the materials suitable for the manufacture of a stool, it is most preferable to create a product from wood. Neither wrought iron nor plastic seating can compare to a wooden chair. The only caveat is that poplar, alder, willow and aspen wood is the least suitable for a chair. These breeds are soft and prone to reaction to contact with water.
It is important that the material for the blanks is dry, of high quality, free of knots, mold and wormholes. If the wood is damp, the finished product will dry out and be of poor quality, it may dry out and crack.
Pine, spruce is taken for sitting. For the manufacture of legs, trees of harder species are required: beech, birch, oak, fir, maple.
If it is impossible to make a product from wood, modified wood can be used. These are compressed sawdust and waste after sawing trees. Such material is inferior in wear and durability to natural.
The choice of glue must also be approached responsibly. Most pieces of furniture are glued together and the quality of the product will directly depend on the quality of the glue. Good reviews for bone carpentry glue. It is relatively inexpensive, does not require additional drying, and holds the parts firmly after solidification. The only drawback is the difficulty of manufacturing, the need for special equipment.
Strong enough for gluing parts glue "liquid nails". It hides seams well.
Water-based acrylic adhesive is also very strong and of high quality.
Due to the high cost, liquid nails and acrylic glue are being replaced by PVA for furniture. PVA glue for paper is not suitable for gluing parts. The disadvantage of this glue is the need to withstand the glued parts during the day, without loading or displacing the parts.
What do you need to know?
In order to make it is necessary to master several types of connecting wooden parts to each other:
- half-tree tie-in (be able to make a groove);
- tongue-and-groove connection;
- dowel connection;
- rallying;
- spike - groove connection.
There is nothing complicated in making a stool out of wood. You need to be patient, measure everything, make sketches correctly and select the material. But after spending a little time, you will enjoy a comfortable and high-quality product for a long time, feel moral satisfaction and proudly demonstrate your creation to your friends. Or maybe the first experience will be the impetus for further carpentry.
FROM
we hear "kitchen", we mean "stool". In our tiny kitchens, the stool perfectly fulfills the tasks assigned to it, taking up almost no space. It is the stools we are looking for for the kitchen, not the chairs in the Gothic style. Well, if you have to save space, let's save finances at the same time, and we'll figure it out, how to make a stool with your own hands.
If you have no experience with wood and tools for its processing, heed the following tips:
1) Avoid joints "groove-thorn", their manufacture requires precision and certain skills, otherwise we will get not a stool, but something shaky, unstable and creaky.
2)
A stool is “mobile” furniture, prone to “travelling” around the house, so chipboard should not be used: its edges are prone to rapid destruction, especially if exposed to moisture, and besides, chipboard does not hold screws and other fasteners well.
DIY materials for making stools
Modern markets are replete with furniture of various types and shapes. The materials are also diverse: from wood and its derivatives (plywood, chipboard, OSB), to metal, plastic and a couple of other very exotic materials, like glass and stone. We will take the old, good tree as a basis!
Our simple but reliable wooden stool will consist of only three elements: seat, legs and connecting plates. We will need:
1.
Beam with a section of 30x30 mm, for legs
2.
Board, size 145x300 mm and thickness 20-25 mm - 2 pcs.
3.
Plywood, 12 mm thick.
4.
Glue.
5.
Sandpaper.
6.
Acrylic varnish
7.
Two dozen screws, 40mm long.
Tools needed to make a stool
Convenience + speed = quality results. This formula fully characterizes the result of using suitable tools and devices in the work, so we will prepare:
1)
a hacksaw with a small tooth;
2)
screwdriver "cross";
3)
drill;
4)
corner and ruler (carpenter's meter);
5)
pencil;
6)
drill;
7)
soft brush for applying varnish.
Tools are a whole different story. A convenient, high-quality, “beautiful” instrument in itself inspires creativity. Working with a good tool is a pleasure ...
But we digress, let's return to our stool, and finally tell you how to make a stool with your own hands.
In conclusion, do-it-yourself stool
Stool - simple furniture. But it also gives a flight of fancy for new creative solutions. You can solve the question of how to make a stool with your own hands using our example. You can come up with your own version. Do it and you will succeed!
In work don't forget about safety. So that the pleasure of work is not overshadowed by cuts and splinters, work carefully, slowly, do not be lazy to wear gloves.
"Can you make a box? Yes? Okay, you'll make stools for now." This is from a conversation with a brand new job seeker in a small furniture company. Indeed, making a simple stool with your own hands is no more difficult than a box. That one can be more difficult if it is retractable in the nightstand. Therefore, it is better for those who are interested in carpentry to master it, starting with a stool. You won’t save much money on this, stools are inexpensive. But the acquired skills will allow you to take on large cabinet furniture, which will save you many times over, plus unique items in the interior.
A stool as a starting object in the furniture business has another advantage: it requires little planing and sawing work with the inevitable garbage, you can test your carpentry skills on the balcony or even in the kitchen. After making sure that the matter is going well, we will think about a carpentry workshop with a workbench and other things; Without it, you can no longer make furniture more impressive.
Device and something about terms
The classic wooden kitchen stool is arranged as shown in fig. It can also be seen that its construction is rather complicated for a beginner, but we will come to it through simpler samples, but no worse. In this case, the picture is needed for another.
The reader may think that to call the support beam a tsarga, and screeds / spacers with prolegs are already purely furniture specifics, sort of like a bench for sailors - a can. As for the king, this is not so. Drawers can also be found in other branches of technology, and there they are by no means beams either in appearance or in the nature of the load.
In fact, the drawer is a structural element that distributes multidirectional loads among the components of the power circuit. When distributing the load, it is impossible not to experience it; make them work.
In the manufacture of furniture, the drawer is most often combined with a support beam in the form of a board or beam placed on the edge. This idea is so ingrained that some experienced carpenters consider any such board to be a tsarga. However, the kings and furniture are very diverse.
For example, at pos. 1 fig. (underside of a stool with legs in nests) tsargs are still quite tsargi-bearing beams, only from a bar. But already at pos. 2 tsargi - kerchiefs, and their frame does not hold anything and is only decorative; on pos. 3 kerchiefs can do without it. And on pos. 4 (dressing table) tsarga - jib, which is a beam no more than a scarf.
Table with removable legs, pos. 4, the case is generally interesting. When it is disassembled, the side will be a shaped steel brace, because. only in this case does it keep the underframe boards from breaking out of the tabletop when pushed, or simply from falling apart if the tabletop is also removed. But when the legs are in place, their heads are pressed into the corners and the table is standing, the underframe boards will become both beams and drawers, because. support both vertical and lateral loads. In this case, it is even legitimate to talk about attaching the legs to the sides (!), because. the product acquires proper strength and rigidity only when the mounting nodes of the legs are assembled and loaded.
Tsars from the board can also be vertical posts, and not beams. In this case, they are called combatant tsars, pos. 6. In general, you need to deal with drawers as with beams: first of all, look at how they work in the structure, and how they look is the second or fifth question. It was necessary to be distracted immediately by the kings, because. in furniture they are found all the time.
What do we do?
To make a stool, let's see what we can do. Not all, there is an endless variety of stools, but for starters, typical examples. Our task is to choose what is simpler and better for a specific purpose.
A classic kitchen stool can be both utilitarian and very artistic, pos. 1 and 2 in fig. Its design has developed over the centuries and such stools serve for many decades. The strength of the design allows you to use the stool as a work table, everyone knows this. You can take on a classic stool from the very beginning, having mastered several woodworking techniques, see below.
In lightweight stools, pos. 3-8, the legs are attached either without drawstrings at all, into sockets in a thick, durable seat, or into sockets in scarf drawstrings. In the first case, both the seat and the legs have to be thickened, so such stools are inferior to others in strength, often in appearance, pos. 3.
In order for the lightweight stool to be durable, its legs are tied with screeds: the lower, the stronger and the thinner the screeds can be, pos. 4 and 5. But the low frame of the couplers interferes with the legs of the seated person, and the cut into the thin legs of the stool weakens them. Therefore, instead of a simple frame, they often make an H-shaped one, pos. 6, or put couplers at different levels, pos. 7.
The greatest strength and convenience is provided by the X-shaped system of ties (tie cross), pos. 8. With a certain configuration of the legs, it is possible to do without the lower cross; one such example will be discussed below.
Important subtleties
If you ever undertake to make a lightweight stool, please note, firstly, that its legs should be slightly apart, i.e. the axes passing through the centers of the heads and heels of the legs should deviate from the vertical by 7-12 degrees outward relative to the axis of symmetry of the stool. The second option - the legs should be arched and expand upwards, see below. Without one or the other, the legs can break even with a slight swaying on a stool. Moreover, both solutions are valid if the stool is symmetrical about the vertical axis, i.e. not extended in plan. An exception, up to proportions of 1:1.5, is a stool with screeds at different levels, it can be pulled out in the direction of the lower screeds.
Second, in order to cut the heels and the heads of the legs to the required angle, their blanks must be assembled into a tightly tightened bag and cut in 1 pass. Otherwise, the stool will remain an oblique splay: it is still possible to adjust the vertical legs to the size along the length, but it is simply impossible to achieve the accuracy of the angles necessary for processing the legs one by one on a tree. The corners will already go half a degree-degree against the drawing, but this is not so important, as long as all the legs are the same.
Stools-pedestals, pos. 9 and 10 are heavy and material-intensive, but very durable, because consist, from the point of view of mechanics, of 3 tsargs located in mutually perpendicular planes. The same stools are easy to manufacture, and it is better to start mastering the furniture business from them. In such a case, in Fig. drawings of 2 types. At pos. on the right, the details of the pedestal also cut into half a tree, see below; the mortise slot is not conventionally shown. The seat in both cases can be of any centrally symmetrical shape; put it on dowels, see below. Covers on round pedestal stools make them visually indistinguishable from more labor-intensive poufs when padded as described below.
Note: in the inset at the bottom left of Fig. variant of a stool-cabinet for a summer residence. It needs 4 parts, but it does not get stuck in loose earth either.
Box-shaped, or shield, stools (pos. 11 and 12) require 4 parts, but are lighter and interfere with the legs less. Making them is no more difficult than the previous ones, and all the connections are doweled, which makes the job somewhat easier. Box-shaped stools can be stretched in length up to turning into benches, and their strength and stability depend very little on height. The well-known household stool (pos. 12) is from this breed. In general, shield stools are also a grateful object for a novice carpenter, so we also give drawings of several types for them: room normal height, on the right in the figure, household lower, on the left in the same place, and below - the device is a very small children's stool.
Note: in fig. on the right is a diagram of a reinforced box stool. Pos. c) there is a way to make it look more attractive by veneer sidewalls. This stool is well suited to the country: simple, light, inexpensive, looks good, and in terms of strength and convenience it is not inferior to the classic one.
Stools on pos. 13 and 14 only look like box-shaped ones, but in fact they have 4 wide and flat legs. Therefore, such stools must be made with drawers made of boards or beams, and the legs should be fastened with a proleg. True, in this case it is only one and can be located so that it does not interfere with the legs at all.
The next variety available for self-production by beginners is stools with X-shaped legs. To give them the necessary strength, either 2 drawers and 2 prongs are required, located mutually perpendicular, pos. 15, or 4 tsargi-beams forming the upper frame, and 1 coupler between the crosshairs of the legs. The latter option can be inscribed in the interior of the living room or bedroom, but most of all, the racks are made folding. Suddenly become interested - in fig. folding country stool, drawings and folding method. It is possible to assemble a country set from such a garden folding table. In fact, there are many designs of folding stools for different purposes, from a fishing rack to picnic furniture, and some of them are easy to make with your own hands.
Note: all the described stools are quite plastic and tolerant of the configuration of details, therefore their creative executions in different styles, poses are possible. 17-20.
Materials, tools, technology
What to do?
Wood is suitable for the manufacture of any stool. In terms of strength and durability, a wooden stool is second only to a forged metal one, and in terms of convenience and functionality it has no equal among its counterparts. Any quality wood will go on a stool, except for very soft and easily decaying species: poplar, willow, aspen, alder.
The quality of wood for any furniture is determined, firstly, by the absence of visible defects: cracks, falling knots, chips, wormholes, traces of rot and mold in the form of spots of a color unusual for this breed, see fig. Secondly, wood for furniture should be room-dry, with a moisture content of 8-12%. in the process of drying, a violation of its structure is possible and in the room furniture made of it may eventually crack or crack.
Note: The slanting and graininess of wood on furniture in piece handicraft production is in many cases acceptable, and sometimes desirable, because. allow you to get a beautiful texture. The famous Karelian birch is nothing more than an ordinary warty birch, completely curvy due to unfavorable growing conditions.
The tree is air-dry, with 12-20% humidity (this is an ordinary timber) must be kept in a dry room at a temperature of 15-30 degrees for 1-6 weeks, stacked on non-damp stands. The initial plots (boards, beams) are placed on stands at intervals, and the next belt (layer) of the pile is also placed on stands; now you can use the same plots as them, laying a couple across.
Note: it is impossible to dry the wood under the influence of heating devices or the light of incandescent lamps - we will get very poor chamber wood.
On the seat of the stool they usually take pine or spruce, and on the legs a harder tree: birch, oak, maple, beech. Of course, the entire stool can be made from hardwood. Of the fairly affordable imported breeds, wenge, hemlock, mahogany are suitable.
A full replacement for wild wood will be modified wood - MDF of medium and high density. MDF is not impregnated with anything, it is made from sawing waste of commercial wood pressed at an elevated temperature, i.e. The material is quite environmentally friendly. MDF is inferior to wild wood in terms of abrasion resistance, so it is advisable to stuff hardwood soles on the heels of MDF legs.
From plywood, you can make pedestal and box-shaped stools, as well as clothed stools with an X-shaped coupler of legs (pos. 8 in the figure at the beginning) and similar to them in terms of power circuit. Also, plywood will go on the seat of any stool. From chipboard, as a rule, only box-shaped stools are made entirely. in the designs of all the rest there are points of concentration of loads, which the chipboard does not hold. But chipboard will also go well on the seat.
Note: it is highly desirable to impregnate plywood for furniture with a water-polymer emulsion from both faces and from the end.
About glue
Most furniture joints are glued. Traditionally, bone carpentry glue is used for this. It is inexpensive, does not require drying to a tack before joining parts, and gains strength as soon as it hardens. But for its preparation, you need a glue maker, which, however, you can make yourself.
Very strong glue for wood "liquid nails". It also makes it possible to hide the adhesive seams, because. tinted under a tree with sawdust, or you can buy ready-made tinted. Water-based acrylic wood glue is even better.
Liquid nails and acrylic are quite expensive, so in many cases they are replaced with almost the same durable PVA, but not the usual office paper, but wood. The corresponding marking must be looked at on the label, and wood PVA is sold not in stationery, but in construction and hardware stores. It is necessary to glue parts on PVA only after exposure to tack; glue is applied to both connected parts. Exposure for strength gain - at least a day, only then you can continue to work or load the connection.
Note: all adhesive joints do not hold shear along the seam; they need to be reinforced in this direction in various ways; for some, see below.
What to do?
We will assume that since you are a workman, you have a simple measuring and marking and working tool, including chisels and chisels. It is also desirable to have a caliper with a depth gauge. But, in order to start making stools and furniture in general, you need to stock up on a couple more devices first.
Firstly, a thickness gauge (height gauge) for marking, see fig. It can be done with your own hands, using a pair of screws instead of a lever lock. If you wish, you can also swing at a home-made thicknessing machine, amateurs do.
Secondly, wooden panels for furniture are not assembled just like that, they will come out humpbacked and slitted. Shields need to be rallied, i.e. when assembling do not glue the boards, press the edges tightly against each other until the glue is completely dry and gains strength. See below for how shields rally, but for now you need to make adaptations for this: plaz or wyms. The basis in both cases is strong, even and seasoned boards of at least 150x50 for the plaza and 120x50 for the vime.
A very convenient plaz from a screw clamp and an emphasis with a dead point, pos. 1 in fig. If there are no components for it, then the simplest plaz, pos. 2. The boards in it are compressed with wedges, pos. 2a, alternately knocking out with a mallet, and roughly under the size of the shield they put a spacer from the same board as the base of the plaza.
Large shields, approximately longer than 50 cm, cannot be rallied on the plaza, because at the same time, its base bends itself. In addition, the removal of the edges of the boards beyond the plaza should not exceed 150 mm, i.e. on a plaza of 250 mm boards, you can rally a shield up to the same 50 cm wide. This is enough for a stool, but for the future it is better to get 3-4 wyms, pos. 3. The fastening of the end bosses-stops in all cases must be very strong, on M8-M12 through bolts with nuts, because very large forces act on the stops in work.
How to do?
To make a stool, you need to master, first of all, several types of connections of wooden parts:
- Half-tree tie-in (half-tree).
- Tongue-and-groove connection.
- Spike-groove connection.
half a tree
Half-tree connection, shown in fig. Technologically, it is the simplest and quite reliable, if it is additionally fastened, 2-3 points per connection, with dowels, self-tapping screws, bolts, nails and, optionally, glued. When working with a hand tool, the recesses are first filed along the edges, not reaching 0.5-1 mm to the desired depth, and an excess array of material is selected with a chisel. To make cuts deeper, so that later with one blow to knock down the excess - a manufacturing defect!
Half-tree connections are closed, pos. 1, so the crosses are assembled, open, pos. 2, for assembling corners, and deaf (closed) half, pos. 3, for tapping on the run. In addition, half a tree can be connected both by layer, pos. 1-3, and along the edge, pos. 4. In the latter case, if the parts are high enough, the connection holds well and only on glue without additional reinforcements; this is how the supports of pedestal stools are assembled.
Tongue and groove
For tongue-and-groove joints, pos. 1-3 in the figure, the 1st point of additional fastening or just gluing is enough. The tongue-and-groove connection can be open single, pos. 1, open double, pos. 2, triple, etc., or closed, pos. 3. The latter can be separated only by pulling the part with the comb, and the open tongue-and-groove joints can also be turned by turning the parts relative to each other, i.e. a closed tongue-and-groove comb is technologically more complicated (a hole must be drilled along the edges with a drilling depth limiter and then carefully gouged), but stronger and more reliable.
The tongue-and-groove and tongue-and-groove connections are mechanically similar, so they are often confused. For example, connections on pos. 1 and 2 in the old Soviet textbooks for vocational schools are called tenon-groove. But in fact, the shoulder of the spike, unlike the shoulder of the crest, bypasses the spike from all sides, pos. 4. This makes it possible to hide the semicircular edges of the hole selected by the end mill, and makes the connection resistant to breaking out in 2 planes, along and across.
The spike, as well as the closed tongue-and-groove comb, can be wedged when assembled with a hardwood wedge, also pos. 4. The connection becomes one-piece, but very strong and no visible additional fasteners are required, glue will last forever. The connection on a wedged spike is generally “dead”, it is easier to smash the entire product to smithereens than to separate it.
Note: joints on spikes in furniture, many types are used; For example, a small part of them is shown in Fig. on right. We will get acquainted with the necessary ones along the way when describing the corresponding types of furniture.
Dowels
Dowel connection is the main thing in carpentry, because. it is strong enough and invisible; completely closed. Actually, a dowel is a round or octagonal spike made of hard wood, made separately from the parts to be joined. How the connection is made with dowels is shown in Fig., here you can’t do without a thickness gauge for marking.
Dowels can be wedged during assembly, see fig. on the right, then they are called pins; wedges must be placed across the wood fibers of the parts to be joined. The dowel connection is one-piece, but very strong and reliable. The joints on the dowels are usually glued.
The attentive reader probably already had a question: where to get them, these dowels? Random twigs-slivers will not be reliable. True, dowel sticks are commercially available, but you can also make them yourself. In general, the main dowel connection in furniture has a lot of other subtleties, so we give a selection of videos:
Video: connection on dowels
Video: making round sticks for dowels and arrows
Video: do-it-yourself dowel making tool
Video: homemade jig for drilling holes for dowels
Rallying
Boards in furniture panels are rallied in different ways. On a tongue (a type of tongue-and-groove connection), pos. 1 in the figure, it is easiest to rally if you use tongue-and-groove boards. Due to the large contact area of the surfaces to be joined, adhesive tongues are very reliable and often used. However, only boards of sufficient thickness can be rallied to the sheet pile, because. the crest of the tongue should, on the one hand, be no wider than 1/4-1/3 of the thickness of the board, and on the other hand, it should not be narrower than 10-12 mm. It is believed that the minimum thickness of boards from a wild array for rallying on a tongue is 30 mm, but it is not recommended to rally boards less than 40 mm on a tongue; the dimensions of the tongue for the magpie board are shown in fig. above. Boards made of MDF and laminate can be stacked on a tongue with a board thickness of 16 mm or more.
Rallying in the rebate, pos. 2, it is safe only if the fold is with a lock. A lockless fold is just a quarter, and a shield made of quarter boards will not be reliable, just like a shield rallied into a rail, i.e. just the ends of edged boards. It is difficult to make a lock seam at home, therefore, like a lock tongue-and-groove, they are rallying shields made of MDF or laminate, see fig. on right. In this case, the thickness of the boards can be from 12 mm.
Rallying on dowels, pos. 3, possibly solid boards from 20 mm and MDF / laminate from 12 mm, but laborious and difficult. It is best to rally thin boards into a smooth fugue, pos. 4. The grooves for the fugue will have to be selected with a manual wood router with a disk cutter, but the fugue itself can be made from plywood from 3 mm, which makes it possible to rally "wild" boards from 12 mm.
About the seat
Sitting on a hard stool for a long time is uncomfortable, so something softer will fit here. How the soft seat of the stool is arranged is shown in pos. 1 fig. It should be noted right away that it is better to make the outer upholstery from burlap, and sew capes for stools from decorative furniture fabric. The stool is used intensively, often casually, and expensive jacquard, etc. it will soon get oily. And the cape can be washed, and sewing it is much easier than a cover for a chair or armchair.
The inner skin is put on glue with a wing inversion from 60 mm, pos. 2. Glue is applied only to the base and the wings are applied, drying it to a tack. Foam rubber is chosen “on a snap”: compressed to the limit with fingers and suddenly released, it should straighten up sharply, and not pull up smoothly.
The outer skin is also placed on glue, with an overlap of the inner wings by at least 30-40 mm. Its edges, so as not to creep, are pulled together with harsh threads up and down, and the threads, so as not to be accidentally torn, are sealed with thick paper, thin cardboard or just tape. Upholstery nails, if necessary, imitate pushpins, pos. 3. The seat is attached to the base when it is completely ready.
The wicker seat pos. 4, but it requires a reliable frame, like a classic stool. Lightweight stools and stools without a tightly attached seat are not strong enough. Modifying cabinets and box stools by replacing the top board with a frame is not worth it for the same reason.
Note: dimensions of ordinary, not for a bar, stools 420-450 mm in height; the seat is from 350x350 to 400x400 mm square and 300-450 mm in diameter is round.
Examples and Samples
The most reliable and functional is, as we see, still a classic stool; no wonder she got into the classics. Therefore, we give her drawings, see fig. Pos. A - general view and device; B - seat mounting method; B - detailing; G - scheme for rallying the seat on the dowels; D - base assembly; E - checking for evenness by measuring pairs.
However, the established canons do not exclude evolution up to revolutionary changes. Revolutions are generally not needed for society because they are ruinous, but in technology they are almost always fruitful. An example is a lightweight kitchen stool based on a classic one, see next. rice. The use of plywood (top trim), laminate for the seat and, most importantly, the removal of the drawer side outside the load-bearing belt, gave rise to a very simple, light, cheap and comfortable design - there are no prolegs. And in terms of strength, it will not yield to the classics, only a wicker seat cannot be made.
And, finally, a variant of the base of a lightweight stool without prolegs. Assembly method see fig. Material - wood or plywood. The seat can be anything. Thanks to the correctly chosen configuration of the legs, the stool is quite reliable, and in appearance, especially with a soft seat, it will go into any living room.
Finally
Making furniture with your own hands is not only economical, but also exciting. And therefore - in a good hour! From a simple stool to such a closet or bed that the grated designer will gasp in admiration.