A stool is an indispensable piece of furniture. It is used both in city apartments and country houses. Models presented in furniture stores do not always meet the requirements of buyers. Some are not satisfied with the price, others are not satisfied with the appearance and technical characteristics.
Faced with a similar problem, the best solution would be to make a stool at home. There is practically nothing complicated about this.
Design
The stool has the simplest design. Even wood waste, bars, plywood, etc. are suitable for its creation. The standard and simplest model consists of several parts that are well-fitted and securely connected.
Even more photos, as well as step-by-step instructions from the master are on this site https://masterinterera.ru/mebel
Structural elements are often the same. To make a stool out of wood, you will need:
- Lid. It has a round or square shape.
- Dowels. With their help, the parts are securely fixed.
- Wooden legs.
- Additionally, the design contains such details as "crackers", prolegs and tsargs.
Such names hardly mean anything to home masters. Therefore, we will consider them in detail. All of them are responsible for connecting the stool and giving it maximum strength.
Tsargi are boards or bars that are under the seat. They connect the legs of the stool (most often a spike connection is used) and form a reliable support.
"Crackers" - wooden or metal parts in the form of corners that are mounted under the seat at the inner corners.
The prolegs are located in the center of the legs or in their lower part. They connect them, increase the strength and reliability of the entire structure.
The described details are not mandatory when creating a stool. But forgetting about them is not recommended. They will make the product more reliable and safe.
How to make a simple rectangular stool?
Having dealt with the design, it's time to proceed with the direct manufacture. Let's look at a few examples. The rectangular model is considered the simplest. Good for small rooms.
Technical characteristics of this design:
The height of the finished product is from 44 to 50 centimeters;
- Section of legs: 3.5 x 3.5 or 5 x 5 centimeters;
- Tsargi - 29 x 6 x 2 centimeters;
- Spacers - 29 x 2 x 2 centimeters;
- "Crackers" - 6 x 6 x 2 centimeters.
All details must be prepared in advance. They can be made independently or ordered in a carpentry workshop. If you want to get an original and beautiful product, then you should make curly or chiseled legs.
Then comes the critical step. It is necessary to measure exactly where to make holes for fasteners. The dry assembly method is used. Thus, you can do without even glue.
Instructions for creating a stool with divorced legs
Consider an example of how to make a stool with your own hands, in which the legs will diverge in different directions.
The legs are made from four bars. They must be the same size. It is recommended to use a saw with an angled cutting method. It will help to avoid errors and get the perfect size parts.
We evenly cut off the top of the legs and connect the bars. They should be perpendicular to the floor. In order not to get confused, it is recommended to make notes on the inner corners.
From small bars we make external spacers for the legs. To securely fasten them, we make holes around the perimeter. Make sure their shape matches the spikes of the spacers. During installation, we use wood glue. It will increase the reliability of the finished product.
For prolegs located on the sides, we prepare deaf grooves. The bars that are inserted into them must be properly fixed.
In the upper base, mark the holes and attach four legs. This will require adhesive and screws. After that, the stool must be left for several hours for the glue to dry.
Making a round stool with your own hands, you can take care of additional decoration of the product. For example, the seat is upholstered with foam rubber and leather (a budget option is leatherette). This will make it softer and more comfortable. The foam must be trimmed on the sides.
It is advisable to round the upper edges and cover it with upholstery. To keep it all securely, you need to use a mounting stapler. Staples fasten the material to the bottom of the seat.
Also, the seat can be decorated with braid, fur, fringe, etc. If there is not enough imagination, then look on the Internet and be inspired by examples of photos of stools made by home craftsmen.
If you do not plan to upholster the seat with leather and foam rubber, then clean it with sandpaper, cover it with stain and apply a layer of protective varnish. Side parts made of chipboard are recommended to be processed with a file.
DIY photo of stools
A stool is a comfortable and compact piece of furniture familiar to everyone, which is most often used in the kitchen or in summer cottages. Chairs purchased in a store and made of wood composites do not always meet all the requirements of consumers in terms of aesthetics and practicality for such conditions, and at the same time they are quite expensive. That is why the question arises of how to make a stool with your own hands from wood so that it is reliable and lasts for many years.
Anyone who started making furniture with such a simple product as a stool, having stuffed his hand on it, may later want to make more complex and large-scale structures, for example, a table, a wardrobe or, which will save decent money for the family budget.
Popular types of stools
Even such a simple piece of furniture can be made in different variations and used for different needs. To decide which model you would like to receive as a result of the work, you should consider several similar products.
Children's stool
This version of the stool will not become superfluous in any home, as it is convenient not only for children, but also for adults. It is light in weight and compact in size, so it can easily be moved to any convenient place in the yard or at home, where it is needed at the moment, and even a small child can move it.
It is best to make such a model from a massive board, which must first be well processed. If it is required that the stool be very light, then dry linden is used for its manufacture, which has a beautiful textured pattern and a very low density.
If the thickness of the board taken for a small stool is at least 25 ÷ 30 mm, then only three main parts will need to be made - these are two legs and a seat that can be fastened with dowels, even without the use of additional reinforcing elements.
All parts of the product must be free of sharp corners and burrs. The blanks must be rounded and well polished so that there is no risk of injury or planting a splinter.
This piece of furniture can be used not only for sitting, but also as an ottoman, substituting it under your feet - this is especially often used by older people. Therefore, having made such a stool, you can please both kids and grandmothers by showing them your care.
Stool - drawer
It's not uncommon in a kitchen or workshop to run out of space for small items, and this stool is perfect for clearing out some currently unused items on your desk. The boards that form the walls of the box strengthen the entire structure well and at the same time create a box where things can be placed that should always be easily accessible.
For example, women can use such a box to store needlework, as it is roomy enough and there is room for balls of yarn and knitting needles, as well as everything you need for hand embroidery or sewing.
The male half will calmly hide in a drawer under the seat some items of their household “arsenal” that are most often needed in the household - a hammer and nails, pliers and other not too large tools.
For the manufacture of such a product, you will need a well-crafted timber 50 × 50 mm, a board 200 ÷ 250 mm wide and 20 ÷ 25 mm thick, plywood for the bottom of the box and fasteners.
Folding stool
For small apartments with small kitchens or for small country houses, a folding stool is suitable. It can be kept constantly in the unfolded state, and if necessary, removed into any cabinet or niche between furniture and the wall, since when folded its thickness will be approximately 60 ÷ 80 mm, depending on the material chosen for manufacturing and design features.
The seat for this stool model can be made round or square, but each option has its own leg attachment design. The legs for such a stool are made of a board or thick, 20 ÷ 25 mm high-quality plywood. The base of the product consists of two frames, one of which must freely enter the other. The frames are fastened together from one side and the other with special screws with bushings or an axle-stud, which allows the structure to fold.
step stool
Another version of the stool, which can serve not only for sitting, but also act as a stepladder. Such a model is always useful both in a private house and in an apartment. For example, it is difficult to do without a stepladder during general cleaning, and it is also not easy to get the right thing from the top shelf of a tall cabinet without it.
When folded, this design will not differ in any way from a conventional stool, since the steps will be under the seat. Turning a stool into a comfortable ladder is not difficult - you just need to pull the top of the temporarily inverted steps and carefully place them on the floor. The result is a sturdy and stable ladder that can also be used as a comfortable footrest when sitting on a stool.
To make this model, you will need massive boards for the seat and steps, as well as thick plywood for the legs and stringer under the steps.
Stool for giving
If you plan to use a stool in a summer cottage by type, only in a portable version, then you need to prepare a wooden beam for it, since plywood will not work in this case. Under the influence of moisture, it will begin to exfoliate, and the product will soon be hopelessly damaged.
For manufacturing, larch or oak is best suited. If other wood is chosen, then it will need to be well impregnated with moisture-repellent compounds, and then painted. Moreover, the process of pre-treatment of lumber is carried out even before the assembly of the structure.
Furniture used outdoors differs from that which is located indoors in that between the parts from which the seat and back are assembled (if a bench is made), gaps must be left so that rainwater does not linger on their surface, and details were ventilated faster.
Stool drawing
Having decided on the model of the future product, they make up its sketch-drawing, according to which all structural elements will be manufactured. When drawing up a drawing, all the necessary dimensions are immediately calculated and put on the figure. It is not at all necessary to make a diagram, observing all the canons and rules of drawing science - it will be enough even just to draw it by hand. The main thing is to be able to visually evaluate what will happen in the end, to see all the parameters of the necessary materials and the principle of their connection.
In the presented diagram, you can see the names of some of the parts that are included in the design of the stool - these are drawers, prolegs and "crackers". About them - a little more, so that in further descriptions it is clear what is at stake. All these details are necessary to fasten the structure and give it the necessary strength.
- Tsargi are bars or boards located under the seat of a stool and fastening the legs together with spiked joints, creating a strong support for the seat.
- A proleg is an element designed to increase the stability and rigidity of the structure. It is located in the central or lower part of the legs (according to their height) and also fastens them together with tongue and groove joints.
- "Crackers" are bars, boards or metal corners, installed diagonally on the inner corners of the structure under the seat and fixed to the sides and legs.
When drawing up a drawing, it is important to calculate not only the parameters of all visible details of the structure, but also the size of the internal connecting elements, such as the spikes cut out at the edges of the sides and the grooves in which they will be installed, selected in the legs of the stool.
Tools for the job
Without carpentry tools, making any piece of furniture from wood simply will not work. Professional master furniture makers have workshops fully equipped with special expensive machines. But in order to just try yourself as a carpenter, of course, you should not immediately purchase professional equipment, however, you still have to prepare some tools.
The list of the most popular tools for working with wood is as follows:
- It's great if the farm has a set of cutters that will help to process the edges of boards, timber and plywood, drill holes of various sizes or carefully select grooves and grooves on any of the details.
- To get rid of tedious operations, you will need a grinder with interchangeable wheels of varying degrees of grain size - to make the surface of the wood smooth. This work can be done manually, but it will take much more time.
- Electric jigsaw. This tool, of course, can be replaced with a hand saw, but after sawing the boards with it, the edges of the parts will not turn out neat, and you will have to work on them well using a milling cutter. Again, sawing the material by hand will take much longer.
- will be necessary not only for screwing fasteners, but also for drilling holes in parts. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare a set of screwdriver bits and drills of different diameters. Instead of a screwdriver, you can use any drill and a set of manual screwdrivers.
- Clamps of various sizes. If you want to make a really high-quality and durable thing, then clamps must be on hand without fail, since when gluing boards into a solid panel or individual parts together, they must be strongly compressed and left in this position for a sufficiently long time, and besides these No other tool can do this.
- You always need a hammer and chisels of different sizes. Sometimes you have to resort to using a planer - it can also be manual or electric.
- Measuring and marking equipment is being prepared - a tape measure, a construction square, a wooden ruler for 500 ÷ 1000 mm, a simple pencil, thickness gauge, etc.
In addition to these tools, for convenient work, you will need a fairly large and durable table - a workbench.
Making stools
folding stool
Traditional simple stool
The designs of even the simplest products may differ from each other by some elements, which, as a rule, are designed to give the stool additional strength.
Materials for manufacturing
A simple model of a stool looks like this and consists of parts indicated in the drawing by numbers:
1 - Legs.
2 - Stool legs.
3 - Tsargi.
4 - Seat.
5 - Connection elements - supports for installing the seat.
6 - Connecting grooves.
7 - Connecting grooves.
For the manufacture of traditional stools with a height of 500 mm, a seat of 450 × 450 mm and straight legs, the following parts will be required:
- Four, well processed, to smoothness, beams for legs, section 50 × 50 mm, height 485 mm. They can be straight or tapered downward cuts on the inside.
- For the seat, you need to prepare two or four boards 12 ÷ 20 mm thick, 450 × 225 mm or 450 × 112.5 mm in size, or a plywood panel 450 × 450 mm, 12 ÷ 20 mm thick.
- To give the stool strength, in different types of structures, 4 footrests and 4 drawers made of timber with a section of 30 × 30 and a length of 441 mm can be used, or only drawers - 4 boards with a section of 30 × 60 and a length of 441 mm.
- Additionally, connecting elements can be used, in the form of small pieces of bars fixed on the inside, in the middle of the sides, but you can do without them if bars of sufficient thickness are taken for the base under the seat.
- A beam of 30 × 30 mm for the manufacture of "crackers", if they are supposed to be installed.
- Wooden dowels (chops) for fixing the seat to the finished base - 4 pieces, 30 mm long and 8 ÷ 10 mm in diameter.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Joiner's glue.
Stool assembly
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | The first step, in order not to waste time, is to glue the boards for the seat if it will consist of several elements. To do this, well-fitted and polished end sides of the boards are smeared with glue, connected to each other and pulled together in clamps. This design should dry thoroughly, and while it sets, you can start assembling the frame base of the stool. |
 | Next, prepare the bars for the legs. They must have perfectly even cuts and be the same in height, which can vary, depending on the desire of the master, and range from 450 to 500 mm. |
 | The next step is marking on the legs and determining the place for selecting the connecting grooves for installing the spikes of the footboards and the drawer (or only the drawer if the footrests are not included in the design). Holes are selected using a milling cutter or chisel. |
 | Next, the edges of the tsarg and footrests are processed. Spikes are cut out on them with a width, height and depth less than 1 ÷ 1.5 mm than the openings of the grooves in the legs intended for them. The spikes should be loose enough, but still tightly fit into the grooves. |
 | After that, the legs are assembled in pairs, fastened together by means of footrests and tsarg - their spiked parts are glued into the grooves of the legs. Each of the resulting frames is pulled together in clamps. Then, after they dry, the legs connected in pairs are also connected by drawers and legs into a single design of the base of the stool and again compressed in clamps until completely glued. After the glue dries, all connections are additionally fixed with self-tapping screws. |
 | If it is supposed to strengthen the stool with “crackers”, then they are screwed to the tsargs and the leg of the stool. This element, flush with the top edge of the drawer side, will provide additional support for the seat. |
 | The next step is to mark and secure the seat of the stool. To do this, glue is applied to the reverse side of the panel according to the marking, and then it is laid on the finished base of the stool, leveled and pressed. Further, in the corners, through the seat panel, one hole is drilled, the diameter of which should be 1-2 mm larger than that of the prepared dowels, and the depth should be 5 mm less than their height. Glue is poured into the hole, and then the dowels are clogged. The glue that comes out is wiped off immediately. The top of the dowel is cut off with a milling cutter, and this place is polished to smoothness. In addition, the seat must be pulled off with clamps until the glue dries completely. |
Glue can be designed for different drying times, and this is usually indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. It is possible to operate the products only after the full expiration of the specified period.
Folding stool
The folding version of the stool is convenient because, due to its compactness, it can not only be stowed away in a small space of residential premises, but also easily fit in the trunk of a car for its transportation to the country house.
baby stool
Materials for manufacturing
To make such a model of a stool, you will need slightly different materials than those used for a traditional product. So, some craftsmen prefer to purchase finished processed furniture panels made of natural wood. They are great for cutting structural details, since, having cut them out of this material, it remains to process only their edges.
For the presented version of the stool, the master needed a panel measuring 1120 × 400 × 24 mm, and in addition to it, in addition, the following materials:
- Stud with threads cut on both sides and end nuts, 250 × 8 mm in size, for through installation, or stud with blunt ends - for installation in blind grooves.
- Butterfly furniture hinges with a size (opened) 350 × 400 mm - 4 pieces.
- Dowels or chopsticks 50 × 8 mm.
- Joiner's glue.
- Stain and colorless varnish or tinting varnish.
- Self-tapping screws 15÷20 mm long.
The dimensions of all structural details are clearly visible in the presented drawing.
The folding stool consists of the following parts:
- The seat is round, 350 mm in diameter.
- Frame 166 mm wide, consisting of two bars, 500 × 48 × 24 mm in size, and a cross member 122 mm long.
- A frame 122 mm wide of two bars 500 × 48 × 24 mm with cuts at the upper ends at an angle of 30 degrees, and crossbars 70 mm long.
Making a stool
Processing of parts and their assembly is carried out in the following order:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | It must be said that the seat can be round or square with rounded corners, the choice of the master. In this case, a round seat with a diameter of 350 mm is selected. For the convenience of folding the stool, a curved hole should be made in the upper part of the seat, about 120 mm long and 20 ÷ 25 mm wide, so that it is convenient to take it with your hand. It can be cut with a milling cutter or drilled at a distance of 120 mm from each other two holes with a diameter of 20 ÷ 25 mm, and then connect them by sawing the wood between them with a jigsaw, making two cuts. In order for the hole to turn out neat and smooth, its edges must be immediately processed. |
 | The processing of the edge of the seat and the inner edges of the “handle” hole is most often done using a semicircular cutter. But if this tool is not available, then they are put in order, first using a file with a large notch (rasp), and then sandpaper of different grain sizes, gradually bringing the wood to smoothness. |
 | The next step is to process the prepared bars of the legs. In two of them, which will form the outer frame, you need to cut a groove 180 mm long and 8 mm wide, and 42 mm deep, along which the stud will go. Sometimes the grooves are made through - it is for this case that a threaded stud is selected at the ends, onto which a special plug nut is screwed. In the other two bars, according to the scheme, through holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled through which the pin will pass - these elements are intended for the manufacture of a narrow frame. |
 | The grooves are cut using a milling cutter, or holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled along the intended line, which are then combined into a common groove using a jigsaw. The work is carried out on a special machine, or the beam is rigidly fixed in a vice, and then holes are drilled in it using a drill or screwdriver. |
 | The bars that will form the inner, narrower frame of the stool, in the upper part, must be carefully sawn off at an angle of 30 degrees - this process can be done on a machine tool or using a miter box. The corner must be cut perfectly precisely, so you can not do this work "by eye". On the bottom of the legs, the corners and edges are recommended to be slightly rounded. |
 | The crossbars installed between the legs are mounted on dowels, which are glued into the drilled holes. This process can be done in different ways. Most often, first, a jumper for glue is installed in the place intended for it, the legs are compressed in clamps, and left to dry completely. Then, through the outer side of the legs, through holes are drilled, which go deep into the end sides of the jumpers, at least 20 ÷ 25 mm. After that, dowels are carefully driven into the holes on the glue. Two fasteners are required on each side of the jumpers. |
 | On the back of the seat, according to the drawing, the markings are made of the places where the butterfly loops will be attached. Then, the loops are laid on the marked place and outlined. Further. from this place, a landing "nest" is selected with a depth equal to the thickness of the loop, that is, the loop, when fixed, should be flush with the main wooden surface. |
 | Next, the loops are fixed on the upper end sides of the legs. They are screwed with self-tapping screws, the caps of which should be in the same plane with the surface of the hinges. In the next step, the second side of the loops is fixed in the nests prepared for them on the back of the seat. |
 | To make the design look neat, it is recommended to close the hairpin with a tube carved from wood. You can also replace the wooden version of the element that masks the hairpin with a plastic tube, since it is not so easy to carve this part out of wood. The length of the tube should be 68 mm, the inner diameter is 9 mm, the wall thickness of the tube can be from 2 to 10 mm. |
 | Further, the hairpin is inserted into a narrower frame through the prepared decorative tube, and its ends are inserted into the grooves of the outer, wider frame, along which they will walk when folding and unfolding the stool. |
 | I must say that the folding stool may have a slightly different design. It uses not one, but two studs, and instead of an internal frame, a solid board is fixed, and it serves as an equally reliable leg for a stool. The second, outer frame has a jumper in its lowest part, at such a level that when the structure is folded, the leg board fits neatly into it, creating one panel. The fastening of such legs to the seat is carried out in exactly the same way as in the first version of the folding stool. |
 | For comparison, you can see how one and the other model of the finished product looks like, and choose the one you like for manufacturing. It is probably not difficult to understand that the second design option is simpler in execution. |
Stool with wicker seat
A stool with a wicker surface can be made in a low or full, high version - it will be convenient in any case. Its seat can be made of various materials - durable fabric, belts (including old car seat belts), cord and even a plastic-braided cable. It is quite possible to come up with your own version.
Materials for manufacturing
The frame for such products is mounted, in principle, according to the same scheme, however, if a high stool for an adult is to be made, then the design should be more reliable, that is, it is desirable to strengthen it with strong drawers and legs. We must not forget that the seat of a traditional stool is also a reinforcing part of the structure, and its wicker version itself requires a particularly strong frame.
So, for the frame of a rectangular stool, having a size of 500 × 400 mm, you will need:
- Wooden blocks 50×50 mm for the legs – their height can be chosen individually.
- Bars for drawers and footrests, section 50 × 25 mm.
- Metal or wooden corner elements - "crackers".
- Self-tapping screws.
- Leather or synthetic straps, or strong rope in one or two colors.
We note right away that the model shown in the example has a fairly large seat, which reduces the overall strength of the stool. Therefore, it may be more reasonable to make this structural element a little smaller, for example, 350 × 300 mm.
Find out by reading the options from "classic" to "transformer" in a special article on our portal.
Making a stool
The manufacture of such a stool is carried out in the following order:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | From the bars prepared for work, the structural elements of the stool are cut. The legs are available in heights from 300 to 500 mm, and the model shown is 400 mm high. In order for the legs to be stable, their end parts must be perfectly even. Therefore, they should be marked on a construction square, and it is advisable to saw them with a circular saw, which will give a perfect cut. |
 | The next step is to prepare the bars for the legs and the tsarg. In this case, 4 beams are cut out with a length of 450 mm and 4 beams - 300 mm each. These elements should also have smooth edges for a snug fit to the legs. |
 | To make holes for fastening structural elements at a certain angle, a special tool (jig) is used that can direct the drill bit in the right direction. This device is fixed on a bar, and two holes are drilled through its guide holes on each side of the wooden part. After all the elements of the stool are ready, they should be cleaned well - this process is best done before assembling the structure, since it will be easier to see all the problem areas on the wood. |
 | This photo shows how such holes look inside the timber. |
 | Additional fastening of the tsarg and footrests with legs can also be carried out with the help of “thorn-groove” fasteners, and then, for maximum reliability, also with metal corners - “crackers”. These parts must be selected according to the width of the wooden bars. |
 | If the first mounting option is chosen, using self-tapping screws, then the assembly and fixation of all parts of the stool look as shown in the presented photo. |
 | At the end of the assembly, the stool frame should be strong and stable. When relying on it, it should not swing. |
 | If it is planned to be painted or tinted, then this process is carried out before the seat is made. |
 | To equip the seat for the model shown in this example, it took 17 leather straps, 35 mm wide. As already mentioned, seat belts used in cars can be used instead. The belts are screwed with two self-tapping screws 10 mm in size at a distance of 9 mm from each other, on the wide side of the beam, which goes inside the stool frame. The length of the belts must be measured in advance using a tape measure, “going” with its flexible tape all the way the belt is located. First you need to fasten the straps, which will be located along the length of the rectangle. Having fixed the belts from the inside, they bend around the beam, pull it through the seat frame to the opposite beam-side, go around it and also fix it on the inside with the help of the same self-tapping screws. |
 | After the longitudinal belts are fixed, the belts should be fixed in the same way, which will cross the already stretched elements across. They are screwed along one of the long sides of the frame. Then, each of the belts is passed across through the longitudinal belts, in the form of weaving. After that, they are also wrapped on the inside of the opposite side, stretched and screwed. After completing this operation, you can proceed to the "tests" of the product. |
 | Another design option for a flexible stool seat is to pull a strong rope or cord onto the frame. In this case, paper rope was used. In addition to it, it is necessary to prepare furniture nails with wide hats and a hammer, as well as clamp pliers and an awl. |
 | You can purchase a rope of different colors for weaving and display one of the selected patterns on the surface of the seat, getting a stylish piece of furniture that will complement the interior design. |
 | The end of the rope of the same color is nailed to the back side of the drawer with the help of two furniture nails. |
 | Further, two long opposite sides of the frame are carefully wrapped with a rope. If the frame is square, then the process of laying the rope can be started from either side of the structure. |
 | Braiding opposite tsars with a rope, its loops are pressed against each other as tightly as possible and pulled. Having covered approximately 100 ÷ 120 mm of the seat length with a braid, the rope is temporarily fixed with tongs so that it does not weaken. So they continue to work until the entire surface of the seat is covered with a wound rope. |
 | Having finished the tight-fitting of the seat in two drawers in one color, you can proceed to weaving it across with a twine of a different color. To do this, in this case, a white rope is taken and also fixed on the back of the drawer, which runs parallel to the already wound rope. |
 | With the help of a white cord, any pattern can be “highlighted” from a red background. This process is relatively simple, and will be accessible even to a beginner. |
 | In this case, white cords are pulled between the red rope so that the result is a herringbone pattern, that is, stripes are obtained that turn diagonally from the center of the seat. |
 | Having interlaced 6 ÷ 8 rows and pulled them, the white rope is grabbed on the reverse side of the tsargi with a furniture nail. If this is not done, the seat during operation of the stool will quickly stretch and sag. This procedure must be carried out every 6 ÷ 8 rows, hammering nails on one or the opposite side. |
 | The result should be a sturdy seat, four threads thick, with an interesting design. If you want to choose a different pattern, woven from three or even four colors of rope, then on the Internet you can always find exactly what suits a particular interior. |
It should be noted that in the second version, where the seat is covered with a rope, the frame is not very strong and is unlikely to withstand heavy people, but such a stool is perfect for a child's room or as a footrest. If you want to make a full-fledged product for the seat, you need to choose a more massive beam for the frame and strengthen it especially reliably.
Find out by exploring several available options in a special article on our portal.
In conclusion, it is worth saying that making a stool on your own, without having experience with wood and a special tool, is not so simple as it seems at first glance. However, if there is a desire and enough patience, then it is quite possible to try yourself as a carpenter. The main thing is that you need to tune in to serious work, and not do it “slipshod”.
Video: a master class on making a simple wooden stool
FROM
we hear "kitchen", we mean "stool". In our tiny kitchens, the stool perfectly fulfills the tasks assigned to it, taking up almost no space. It is the stools we are looking for for the kitchen, not the chairs in the Gothic style. Well, if you have to save space, let's save finances at the same time, and we'll figure it out, how to make a stool with your own hands.
If you have no experience with wood and tools for its processing, heed the following tips:
1) Avoid joints "groove-thorn", their manufacture requires precision and certain skills, otherwise we will get not a stool, but something shaky, unstable and creaky.
2)
A stool is “mobile” furniture, prone to “travelling” around the house, so chipboard should not be used: its edges are prone to rapid destruction, especially if exposed to moisture, and besides, chipboard does not hold screws and other fasteners well.
DIY materials for making stools
Modern markets are replete with furniture of various types and shapes. The materials are also diverse: from wood and its derivatives (plywood, chipboard, OSB), to metal, plastic and a couple of other very exotic materials, like glass and stone. We will take the old, good tree as a basis!
Our simple but reliable wooden stool will consist of only three elements: seat, legs and connecting plates. We will need:
1.
Beam with a section of 30x30 mm, for legs
2.
Board, size 145x300 mm and thickness 20-25 mm - 2 pcs.
3.
Plywood, 12 mm thick.
4.
Glue.
5.
Sandpaper.
6.
Acrylic varnish
7.
Two dozen screws, 40mm long.
Tools needed to make a stool
Convenience + speed = quality results. This formula fully characterizes the result of using suitable tools and devices in the work, so we will prepare:
1)
a hacksaw with a small tooth;
2)
screwdriver "cross";
3)
drill;
4)
corner and ruler (carpenter's meter);
5)
pencil;
6)
drill;
7)
soft brush for applying varnish.
Tools are a whole different story. A convenient, high-quality, “beautiful” instrument in itself inspires creativity. Working with a good tool is a pleasure ...
But we digress, let's return to our stool, and finally tell you how to make a stool with your own hands.
In conclusion, do-it-yourself stool
Stool - simple furniture. But it also gives a flight of fancy for new creative solutions. You can solve the question of how to make a stool with your own hands using our example. You can come up with your own version. Do it and you will succeed!
In work don't forget about safety. So that the pleasure of work is not overshadowed by cuts and splinters, work carefully, slowly, do not be lazy to wear gloves.
A stool is an indispensable piece of furniture. With it, you can get the necessary things from a high shelf, pick a crop in the country or just sit comfortably in the shade of a tree. Several stools are needed. In order not to spend money on their purchase, you can try to do it yourself. It is easy and not costly. How to make a stool, what is necessary for manufacturing, you will learn from the article.
Popular types of stools
The store offers a huge number of chairs, stools and a variety of furniture. But a handmade stool will always be better, more convenient and more expensive. It is also a matter of pride, the result of mastery and the achieved level of skill. If you involve your child in making a stool, it will be an unforgettable experience and wonderful childhood memories. Or maybe this will serve as an impetus for the development of children's creativity. So the decision to make a chair without a back with your own hands has only positive aspects. How to make a stool with your own hands can be found in the article.
Approach the process responsibly. Need to prepare:
- material for making a chair;
- place of work;
- sketch or drawing;
- accessories.
A popular item in everyday life requires knowledge of some of the nuances in the manufacture:
- making grooves for connecting the legs is an important condition;
- the most reliable type of fastening is a groove - a spike;
- improper cutting of grooves will lead to loosening of parts;
- the stool is often moved, so the use of good fastening units is important.
Stool options:
- in the form of a chair, without a back;
- small, about thirty centimeters in height, more often used as a stand;
- with soft upholstery is widely used in the kitchen;
- children's - an option for a small child;
- folding, for fishing, trade in the market.
Stools children's photos can be viewed in the article. This type of chair is very popular in families with children.
Various do-it-yourself stool drawings
It is best to make a stool for a beginner according to the instructions in order to avoid inconsistencies. A stool is made by hand, following the rules and instructions.
The first rule is to prepare the legs for the chair. The sequence rule is:
- cut four parts from a pre-prepared timber, six hundred millimeters each;
- make bevels at forty-five degrees;
- for a correctly sawn off corner, it is extremely important to use a miter box; this device allows you to make cuts at any desired angle;
- manufactured legs are connected in pairs;
- make a notch - a gap on a pair of suppression legs;
- connecting the blanks, get a cross from the legs;
- prepare a beam of six hundred millimeters for attaching the cross to each other, this is done for the stability of the product;
- connect the attachment points with self-tapping screws;
- “drown” the grooves for aesthetic beauty, close up with a special tool on top;
- connect the cross and at the top.
After making the legs, you should proceed to work on the manufacture of the seat. If this is not a stool in order to get things from the mezzanine, for convenience it is better to make a soft seat. Making a soft top is not difficult at all.
For the manufacture of high-quality top, you must use plywood. There are no exact recommendations, but it is advisable to take plywood thicker than fifteen millimeters into work. If you use thinner plywood, the seat will be flimsy.
The algorithm for making a seat is as follows:
- cut out a plywood blank with a jigsaw or saw, you should correctly draw a sketch in advance;
- cut a piece of foam rubber to the size of the seat;
- cut off the material - the lining, the material should be about a third larger than the seat, the margin is necessary for convenient fastening of the material under the top of the chair;
- the material is laid out in such a queue: matter, foam rubber, plywood;
- tuck the corners of the fabric around the edges;
- upholstery material is attached with staples or buttons with plastic caps, here you need an assistant to pull and hold the material well.
Step by step instructions for making a stool
A stool is a necessary piece of furniture, it can be of any size and from any number of parts. In fact, it is a chair that does not have a back. He will never be superfluous in the economy. Any master who can hold a hacksaw and a hammer can make a stool, even if he has never made anything more complicated than a box before. Following simple instructions will allow you to build a comfortable stool for a summer house or apartment.
If you have solid parts of natural wood, you can make a chic stool that will cost a lot, but will look spectacular. But more often at hand there are only assorted fragments of boards. Even in this case, you can make a stool that will decorate the interior and will perform its main function.
In order for the result of your work to please you, you need to visit the construction market and purchase the following materials:
- several high-quality polished pine or oak boards;
- self-tapping screws;
- bar for jumpers;
- special glue;
- corners for fastening.
Having bought the material, you imagine what kind of stool you would like to have at the exit. All dimensions should be estimated in advance. The main dimensions of the future part for sitting are marked on the board, a decision is made on the height and thickness of the legs. Provided that it is not a children's stool, it is advisable to provide for additional fastenings between the seat and the side stand. Drawstrings will make the stool more durable and eliminate loosening. A small hacksaw is necessary for cutting the material, this will help to avoid chipped areas. At the top of the racks, it is necessary to make a semblance of protrusions, these parts will go into the bottom of the seat. Accordingly, grooves for them are prepared on the seat.
After cutting the materials (which you carefully double-check before cutting out), you can begin to mount the main parts of the future stool. For good fixation, before connecting the grooves of the seat and racks, the protrusions should be treated with special glue and sealed with a bandage for a strong connection. Parts of the chair are attached to the tsargs with self-tapping screws. If the material is of different suits, the surface of the stool should be sanded with high quality. Provided that high-quality material was purchased, putty will be necessary only for the places where self-tapping screws enter.
The first product may not satisfy you. Each next product will be better and more original. The stool will become the subject of your pride, the highlight of the interior and will help to significantly save the budget.
It must be remembered that it is better to make a stool low, not higher than sixty centimeters.
Modern stools
The ability to make an original and stylish sample allows you to expand the scope of stools. The time has passed for them to be only in the kitchen or used to pick apples. In addition to traditional square designs, more and more options for original forms appear:
- oval;
- round;
- bar;
- children's;
- other.
It is possible to make them from a variety of materials:
- different tree;
- plastic;
- metal;
- acrylic.
Such original and stylish stools will decorate any home, as well as public places: cafes, bars, restaurants, pizzerias. But still, wooden stools are preferable for a home environment.
Folding stool on your own
A folding stool is very convenient and practical, when there is no need to use a stool, it can be folded and placed behind some furniture. Thus, it does not take up space at all and is invisible.
The convenience of such a stool was appreciated by fishermen, summer residents, sellers in the market. You can buy a stool and not waste energy on its manufacture. But having done it yourself, you will be completely confident in its quality and get moral satisfaction from using the result of your work.
Making a folding stool is simple, but still, you can’t do without a detailed drawing. Necessary for the manufacture of a chair:
- identical bars, four pieces;
- prolegs;
- seat rails;
- bars for sitting;
- six bolts;
- self-tapping screws.
After preparing the workplace, preparing the drawing, materials and all the tools, you can start making the chair:
- place the axial bolts, they should be fixed along the edges of the legs;
- drill holes, taking into account the place for the hat;
- attach the crossbars to the top of the legs, two on the inside, two on the outside;
- prolegs are installed at a distance of nine to ten centimeters from the legs;
- connect the middle bars, this process is quite laborious and requires great concentration, this is a collapsible mechanism, it is important to properly fix the parts;
- the height of the chair depends on the place of attachment of the connecting bars.
For the manufacture of a folding chair, any type of wood is suitable, pine and birch are preferable. Due to the light weight, it will be more convenient to carry the chair.
Tools for the job
To make a stool, you will need to prepare a workplace and tools. Unless you are a professional carpenter, there is no need to spend your salary on expensive machines and tools. You can get by with simple tools that are in the pantry of any man. The floor surface must be covered with a film, this will help to litter less. To make a stool, you will need:
- electric drill;
- joiner's clamp;
- clamp - clothespin;
- jigsaw;
- saw;
- drill and a set of drills;
- hacksaw for metal;
- wood file (rasp);
- bit;
- screwdriver;
- chisel;
- sandpaper;
- wooden mallet;
- fasteners;
- plane;
But before manufacturing the product, it is necessary to make a sketch - a sketch. This will require:
- metal ruler and square;
- brushes;
- set of pencils.
Material, samples
Any type of wood can be used to make the chair. Of all the materials suitable for the manufacture of a stool, it is most preferable to create a product from wood. Neither wrought iron nor plastic seating can compare to a wooden chair. The only caveat is that poplar, alder, willow and aspen wood is the least suitable for a chair. These breeds are soft and prone to reaction to contact with water.
It is important that the material for the blanks is dry, of high quality, free of knots, mold and wormholes. If the wood is damp, the finished product will dry out and be of poor quality, it may dry out and crack.
Pine, spruce is taken for sitting. For the manufacture of legs, trees of harder species are required: beech, birch, oak, fir, maple.
If it is impossible to make a product from wood, modified wood can be used. These are compressed sawdust and waste after sawing trees. Such material is inferior in wear and durability to natural.
The choice of glue must also be approached responsibly. Most pieces of furniture are glued together and the quality of the product will directly depend on the quality of the glue. Good reviews for bone carpentry glue. It is relatively inexpensive, does not require additional drying, and holds the parts firmly after solidification. The only drawback is the difficulty of manufacturing, the need for special equipment.
Strong enough for gluing parts glue "liquid nails". It hides seams well.
Water-based acrylic adhesive is also very strong and of high quality.
Due to the high cost, liquid nails and acrylic glue are being replaced by PVA for furniture. PVA glue for paper is not suitable for gluing parts. The disadvantage of this glue is the need to withstand the glued parts during the day, without loading or displacing the parts.
What do you need to know?
In order to make it is necessary to master several types of connecting wooden parts to each other:
- half-tree tie-in (be able to make a groove);
- tongue-and-groove connection;
- dowel connection;
- rallying;
- spike - groove connection.
There is nothing complicated in making a stool out of wood. You need to be patient, measure everything, make sketches correctly and select the material. But after spending a little time, you will enjoy a comfortable and high-quality product for a long time, feel moral satisfaction and proudly demonstrate your creation to your friends. Or maybe the first experience will be the impetus for further carpentry.
Most modern kitchens have such a piece of furniture as a stool. This is a very convenient, useful thing that takes up very little space, which, given the small size of typical kitchens, is quite a valuable quality. It is not difficult to make a stool with your own hands, even if the master has minimal working skills. The main thing is to carefully consider the preparation of parts and measurements.
The stool is a compact, but very convenient element of the kitchen interior.
Many residents of small apartments prefer to use something more mobile instead of a chair, and a do-it-yourself stool will do just fine. Those who wish to make a stool on their own, as a rule, do not encounter any difficulties, but it will not be superfluous to have a good instruction manual for the work and carefully follow its points.
If you decide to make a chair or stool for your own kitchen on your own, but there is no experience in woodworking yet, try to follow some tips while working.
You should not take on the implementation of joints such as groove-thorn. This will require not only good work skills, but also great accuracy at the time of execution, otherwise, instead of a chair or stool, you will get a staggering thing. Such connections can only be accepted if you have the necessary skills.
A stool is usually a mobile thing that is constantly moved around the apartment (for example, a chair is less convenient in this regard). Therefore, it is not necessary to use chipboard in its manufacture - its edges are quickly destroyed, especially if the material has been exposed to moisture. Screws and other fasteners are very poorly held in chipboard.
Materials for the manufacture of stools
In today's construction markets, furniture is offered in different shapes and types, for example, you can choose a folding chair or a simple one. Materials for the manufacture of furniture can also be selected different. Ordinary furniture like a table or chair can be made from wood materials like plywood, OSB or chipboard, plastic, metal, and sometimes more exotic materials like stone or glass.
To make a stool with your own hands, it is better to choose an ordinary tree, that is, wooden materials.
For example, you can take a reliable and simple stool in design, made up of three elements: legs, a seat and elements connecting them. Before you make a stool, prepare everything you need for this. To make it you will need:
- bar for legs with a section of 30x30 mm;
- two boards 145x300 mm 20-25 mm thick;
- sandpaper;
- wood glue;
- plywood 12 mm thick;
- acrylic lacquer;
- screws 40 mm long - 24 pcs.
Tools for making a stool
Only suitable tools and devices should be used in the work:
- hacksaw with fine teeth;
- shaped screwdriver;
- ruler, corner;
- electric drill and drills for it;
- construction pencil;
- varnish brush.
Tools should be chosen only convenient and high-quality - then the work will be a pleasure, and the product itself will turn out beautiful and can last a long time.
How to make a stool: stages of work
The instructions for performing the work help the master save time to think about actions and not make mistakes even with little experience. To make a stool, first measure and saw off 4 parts from a wooden block, each should be 430 mm long. These will be the legs for the stool.
Now, from a board with a thickness of 20-25 mm, make blanks for the seat - there should be two of them, width - 145 mm, length - 300 mm. If desired, the seat can also be made in one piece if you can find a good, suitable board with a width of 300 mm. But most home craftsmen try to use exactly the trimmings of the boards, especially in cases where they are left, for example, from repairs. A more serious thing will no longer work out of them, it’s a pity to throw it away, but it’s always nice to make a useful piece of furniture out of unusable, at first glance, scraps. Neither the quality of the stool nor its appearance will suffer if you collect it from pieces - you just need to do everything right.
Make connecting plates from plywood - the stability of the finished product will depend to a greater extent on them. The size of the plates should be 100x270 mm. On the wide sides of the plates, cut out two grooves with dimensions of 12x50 mm. Each of the grooves should retreat from the edges of the part by 30 mm - this will be the thickness of the stool leg. We collect the parts prepared in this way in a box - we get a connecting frame for a stool.
The legs and seat must be attached to the frame with screws. To do this, you will need to pre-drill pilot holes. Before tightening the screws, for greater reliability, coat the joints with glue - you can use PVA.
If you want to give the stool a more stylish look, the edges of the parts are smoothed out - chamfering does not take much time, and the product takes on a completely different appearance.
The resulting design must be carefully processed with sandpaper. This can be done both manually and using a grinder. First, processing must be carried out with coarse-grained paper No. 100-120, then process the result with a finer one - No. 300-320.
Do not grind parts before assembly. When processing a stool in an already assembled form, all minor inconsistencies in the parts are smoothed out, and if such an operation is performed on the parts in advance, it will be made almost empty. During assembly, small chips and other surface defects will inevitably appear, which will have to be smoothed out again, otherwise the product will look sloppy, ugly.
When sanding is finished, cover the stool with clear varnish in 2-3 layers. Before applying each of the layers, you must wait for the previous one to dry well.
In about the same way, you can make a simple chair, only you need to make a backrest as well. When working, do not forget about the need to comply with safety regulations. In order not to get splinters and cuts, do not be too lazy to wear gloves.