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Vaz 2110 strong vibration. Replacing the rear damper support

Car owners often face the problem of steering wheel play and beating. So, vibration on the steering wheel of the VAZ 2110 is a fairly common phenomenon, observed more often at a speed of 90 km / h.
The shaking increases more and more when driving over the 100 km/h mark, regardless of the road surface. Let's try to make out in this article why vibrations occur on the steering wheel of the VAZ 2110?

Diagnostics and standard causes of vibrations

There may be several reasons for vibrations on the steering wheel of a VAZ 2110 car. In many cases, a superficial diagnosis will not give accurate answers, and only a competent, thorough examination will help determine the exact diagnosis.

Brake pads

As a rule, novice motorists who understand little about cars naively believe that shaking and vibration are the result of worn out. By installing new brake pads, motorists begin to understand that the reasons lie much deeper.
Although, if this “disease” has not gone too far, then changing the pads also helps, but for a while. And for the most part, replacing pads with new ones is a waste of time and effort.

Disks

As for the so-called "garage" specialists, they all, as one, will say the same thing - the vibrations are associated with, which need to be replaced with new ones. And be sure to install imported brake discs, as domestic ones do their job poorly.
What's true is true. The runout of domestic brake discs installed on a car manifests itself much more than even with old discs installed on a conveyor.
In addition, the metal of our discs is often “raw” so to speak, that is, it is easily affected brake pads and is erased.

Note. Installing new brake discs does not give a full guarantee that vibrations will disappear. The fact is that the reason may lie even deeper, and changing disks will only give a half effect.

Usually, when the car runs more than 50 thousand km, then complaints about steering shake increase.
The standard diagnostic option in service stations is as follows:

  • Thoroughly checked chassis car;
  • Car controls are subjected to diagnostics;
  • Often replaced by the left;
  • Wheel balancing is carried out;
  • Brake discs are either replaced with new ones or machined.

The question is: why buy new brake discs, especially ventilated ones (they are not cheap), if you can just do their groove, which gives excellent results.

Attention! It is noteworthy that it is not so easy to pierce brake discs. Here you need the skills of a highly qualified turner, who will determine by eye the extra part of the working surfaces, which he will successfully grind off. After that, the surfaces may remain rough, but this should not be feared.

Attention! The minimum allowable thickness of a ventilated disc for a VAZ 2110 is 17.8 mm, an unventilated disc is 10.8 mm.

Non-standard reasons

It is interesting, but it also happens that after turning and installing the disks, the vibrations on the steering wheel do not disappear. In this case, an unconventional method can help - turning the hub itself on lathe which reduces the beat.

Hub turning algorithm

So:

  • A special device is fixed rigidly and at the right angle (necessarily strictly perpendicular to the plane of rotation);
  • Powerful stops are placed under the car;
  • The jack is removed and stopping support tied firmly to the suspension strut.

Note. It is necessary to tie the brake caliper with wire and away from the lathe.

  • We start the engine;
  • We turn on the fourth gear;
  • We connect the "machine".

Note. The chips should wrap thinly around the cutter. After one full pass, the remainder will be visibly visible on the hub. After the next few visits, this very “bald patch” will completely disappear.

  • The hub is machined to zero.

The grenade crumbled

On the VAZ 2110, the causes of vibration in the steering wheel may be associated with a grenade, although some unfortunate masters deny this.
Features of the vibration of the steering wheel with a scattered grenade:

  • When accelerating, the vibrations are clearly felt;
  • They are felt and disappear when coasting;
  • In the early stages, vibration can also be felt at a speed of 60-80 km / h;
  • Vibrations are not felt at low speeds;
  • The car can fly off the road at a late stage of this disease, especially at speeds above 100 km/h;
  • In addition to vibrations, a terrible knock is also felt, and when you release the gas pedal, the vibration immediately disappears;
  • Vibrations can clearly increase in proportion to the number of people in the cabin (the more there are, the stronger the vibration);
  • The reason for the increase in vibrations can also be a strong frontal wind.

When observing the above symptoms, you need to examine the grenade. It is noteworthy that the CV joint defect may not be immediately noticed.
You will have to tinker a little, take the shafts with grenades in your hands and twist, changing the angle.

Wheel balancing is the most common cause of steering wheel vibration.

As you know, balancing the wheels of a car plays an important role in driving a vehicle. Any trifle and foreign objects that get into the wheel tread can break it.

Note. Experts advise checking the balance every 5 thousand kilometers of the car.

It is worth noting that there are no perfectly balanced wheels. In each wheel, it is customary to recognize its own heavy section, which, when spinning up and picking up speed, does not allow the car to drive normally.
If the balance is incorrect, the car starts to bounce and sway on the road, vibrations are felt on the steering wheel.

Symptoms of vibration on the steering wheel due to improper balancing

This:

  • Vibrations usually appear when driving in a straight line at speeds above 100 km / h;
  • Vibrations can also be felt when turning the steering wheel;
  • They are also noticeable when accelerating or decelerating. vehicle;
  • and when the car is idling.

It is necessary to carry out balancing in services where there is special equipment for this.
The usual procedure is as follows:

  • The wheel is washed and cleaned;
  • Then they are installed on a special balancing stand;
  • After that, the place of installation of the additional load of the wheel disk is determined;
  • The wheel is then mounted on a special type of adapter;
  • Balancing is carried out again, since the fixing cone of the wheel during operation could be subjected to various mechanical damages.

As for the final balancing, it can be carried out without removing the wheels:

  • The vehicle is hung out with a jack;
  • Then the wheels are given an acceleration equal to driving at 120 km/h.

Finish balancing is considered the most accurate and it is usually carried out at the end.
Of course, it will not be possible to carry out balancing with your own hands, but you can still determine the cause of the steering wheel vibrations on your own. It will also be useful to view a lot of photos, including those taken here, and videos.
Detailed instructions, which provide ways to replace various parts, such as discs or pads, will also be very relevant. In any case, the price of the repair that you can do yourself will be several times lower than the operation that will be done in the service station.

Any driver is very alarmed by situations when vibration appears at a speed of 100-120 km / h on the steering wheel or on the body. And the point here is not only in uncomfortable sensations, although it must be said that these symptoms are a rather unpleasant phenomenon. If corrective action is not taken in time, this can lead to a violation of the geometry of the body. It will not happen immediately, but slowly and gradually.

Distortions can provoke a violation of the aerodynamic characteristics, as well as a deterioration in the controllability of the car. In addition, due to vibration effects, cracks can form in the metal, which is not only dangerous in itself, but also requires expensive repairs.

And that's not the whole problem. If the machine vibrates at a speed of 100-120 (VAZ 2110 is no exception), this leads to the unwinding of various fasteners. This phenomenon can lead to serious consequences - these are accidents, as well as various malfunctions and damage, which will be very difficult to eliminate. It is worth adding that this kind of shaking is a signal of breakdowns that will only occur in the near future.

Vibration at a speed of 100-120 km / h occurs for various reasons. These can be quite harmless problems. But sometimes there are serious cases that require global intervention in technical device car. Further in the article, we will consider the typical reasons why vibration is transmitted to the steering wheel even at high speeds.

wheels

If knocks are felt when the car is moving, then you should not immediately be upset and think about the bad. Practice shows that the cause is most often hidden in tires. Sometimes in this case there is not even a need to visit a tire shop to make sure of this. Everything will be visible visually.

Balance is broken

If the steering wheel vibrates at a speed of 100-120 km / h, the first thing to do is to inspect the wheels and tires. They are not perfect. Discs may be uneven or uneven in composition. Since the weight is different in different places of the tire or disk, then during the rotation, the place where the mass is greater will pull the center of gravity towards itself. This is nothing but the effect of centrifugal force. Accordingly, at high revs wheels, this effect will necessarily be transmitted through the rail and traction to the steering wheel. With other damage for the same reason, vibration will also occur on the body.

What is the way out of such a situation? The driver needs to balance the wheels. It's best to do this periodically. Also, balancing is mandatory when “changing shoes”. What is this process? This is equalizing the weight of the wheel at every point on it. If violations are found, then the specialist sticks special weights on the disk.

It is impossible to operate the car for a long time on unbalanced wheels. This can cause severe wear in some places on the tire, which will increase the vibration. Also, because of this, almost all components and suspension units of the car wear out excessively. The hub bearings are also subjected to heavy loads.

Symptoms of imbalance and diagnosis

It is possible to determine the disturbed balance when driving at high speeds. In this case, vibration will be felt on the steering wheel or on the body. You can diagnose the problem with a visual inspection. Wheel disks should be as smooth as possible, without dents. If the car has not recently driven through the pits at speed, and a slight vibration is felt on the steering wheel and on the body, then most likely the problem is in the imbalance.

However, you should not think that if the steering wheel beats, then it is enough to give only two front discs for balancing. Often the only way to fix a problem is to balance all four.

Wheel alignment broken

In direct proportion to an incorrectly set angle, vibration can only occur at the moment of acceleration or in a certain speed range. You can determine the wrong camber / toe-in very quickly - the tires wear out unevenly.

If only the outer or only the inner part of them is wiped, then this is the same situation. You can fix the problem by adjusting the angles. Then 100-120 km/h will disappear.

But here the collapse / convergence is adjusted, but the problem has not gone anywhere. The angle is fixed, that's a fact. But the car owner decided not to change tires, because they can still ride. But the rubber "rides" the way it is used to. This means that it is necessary to change tires or drive at low speeds for some period of time, then the tread will wear out evenly and the problem will be solved.

Vibration on the body and deformed rims

Often the cause of unpleasant vibrations is the deformation of the discs. This is easily determined on Most often, deformations occur due to driving through pits. The problem happens in the spring, when their number increases.

If there is no opportunity to visit the booth, then you can try to find the dent visually. Most of all, the disk is jammed from the inside. Steel is more likely to deform than their cast counterparts.

In addition to dents, vibration at a speed of 100-120 km / h can also be caused simply by a crooked disk. At the same time, the wheel can rotate smoothly on the stand. This is because on the device it is pinned by central hole. On the machine, the wheel is not centered during installation. Warped discs come from the factory.

Chassis

Here, as with wheels, there are several reasons. So, when the drive shaft is bent, vibration will certainly occur on the wheel. This will be reported by constant shaking at the beginning of the movement. Its strength will increase with acceleration. At a speed of 100 km / h, the car turns into a rattle. And if you accelerate even more, the car leaves the rectilinear trajectory.

Often vibration at a speed of 100-120 occurs after replacing the brake discs. Shaking will inform the car owner about a loose disc. At speed, the disc backlash, which is given to the body and the steering wheel.

CV joints are another reason. This item is very easy to check. It is enough to take the articulated shaft and try to turn it. If backlash is observed, even if small, the CV joint must be replaced. An additional sign is a torn anther.

And, of course, it is worth checking the wheel bearings. If they are damaged, the body will definitely vibrate. The shaking is felt at any speed.

Worn out suspension

Heavily worn chassis components can cause vibration in the steering wheel. Suspension affects the contact of the car with the road. If there is play in the undercarriage, then this is the cause of unbalance during rotation. But suspension play is just a “catalyst” for wheel shaking. It in itself cannot serve as the main reason for the steering wheel vibration to appear.

Speeds 100-120 (VAZ - 2108 is no exception) can demonstrate it to you when the car has a steering malfunction. It is necessary to eliminate these breakdowns in the first place. It may be dangerous. However, problems should be diagnosed last, if all other nodes are in perfect order.

Other reasons

All causes of vibration at a speed of 100-120 km / h can provoke shaking at a different speed. But if the body shakes only at high, then the main suspect is the motor, or rather, its incorrect installation. This is often preceded by an engine overhaul. To get rid of the consequences, remove the suspension, loosen the engine mounts, and then reinstall it.

Loose wheel fasteners

This problem is easy to identify and fix, as it causes vibration at a speed of 100-120. VAZ-2110 will make a characteristic dull sound. The point is loose nuts and bolts of one wheel or several. Do not neglect the check, it can be dangerous. The wheel can simply unscrew while driving.

The beating itself is very reminiscent of vibrations on the steering wheel and body when the cause was in the wheels and tires. The difference here is that this shaking begins at low speeds. This phenomenon can be observed at different speeds.

So, we found out for what reasons vibration occurs on the body when driving at a speed of more than 100 kilometers per hour.


Faced with a big trouble: at speeds above 100 km / h, vibration begins throughout the body, which increases with increasing speed. Also, when braking hard at these speeds, the steering wheel vibrates strongly.
VAZ 21102, mileage 14000 km, replaced: bearing in the hub front wheel, steering tips, silent blocks, brake discs for ventilated. Wheel alignment/camber, wheels on forged rims produced by Verkhnyaya Salda, Pirelli tires P6000, balance tested in several workshops.
Maybe someone faced a bodobny trouble?
Thanks!

Re: body vibration 2110
Well, if when braking, then I see the problem in the pads and possibly in the brake discs. There is an opinion that all ventilated discs sold in stores, i. not factory left (there is an imbalance).
With regard to uniform movement, the problem may lie in the shock absorbers and engine mounts.
In general describe a trabl in more detail.
Dmitry

body vibration 2110
Thanks for the response.
I bought brake discs on the market complete with calipers, pads, brake hoses ... it all looked like it was taken from the assembly line (it's not so far ... 80 km :-)).
The pads left the truth the same, DAFMI, they look quite decent and they didn’t come much.
Ammo are KONI gas-filled on all 4 racks. Still installed stretching between the front struts. I did not check the engine mount, only one, near the generator, squeezed into place.
It all started in the winter, sinning on wheels (GOOD YEAR), but then 100 km / h was enough. But with summer wheels the problem has not disappeared.
After 100, the vibration of the body begins, reminiscent of the vibration of rear-wheel drive cars with a curve cardan shaft. It is felt on the floor, steering wheel, seats, dashboard. And when braking, the steering wheel will be pulled out of your hands. But with crooked brake discs, vibration also goes to the brake pedal, but this is not the case here.
In general, it looks like a resonance ... but this is the current according to the sensations ...
What city are you from?

Re: body vibration 2110
The city seems to be registered in my profile. This is Moscow. And what Koni cost. And how much do these ammo cost??
Dmitry

ammo
Koni Sport, gas, special model for 2110, front adjustable, cost about 500 ye a set of 4 pieces. We have at least.

Re: body vibration 2110
Based on what considerations did you put a stretch between the front struts? If I understand correctly, this is not about stretching, but about spacers! M.b. the reason for it? After all, it's extra. a stiffener that can contribute to vibration.
Sincerely, Artem (mirage 21102).

spacer
Hey!
Yes, quick break. To make the body stiffer. It costs anew, i.e. It's been a year now and it hasn't been a problem. This story begins in winter...

Re: body vibration 2110
Good time of the day.
1. Try to check all the steering (knocks, crunches and all that). There was the same problem, however, on Ford - the vibration disappeared after replacing both steering rods along with the tips.
2. The geometry of the suspension may be broken - did it fly into potholes? True, then it would be problematic to set the collapse.
Good luck!

How to change damper mounts power unit Lada 2110 on your own?

The device and purpose of the engine mounts "dozens"

Over a long period, a lot of practical experience has been accumulated on how to change the VAZ 2110 engine mounts and you can easily find videos of repair processes in quantity. But rarely does anyone pay attention to the features of the detail. And, it should be noted, in vain, since such knowledge will help to accurately find the source of vibrations and purchase a suitable spare part during repairs.

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The main purpose of the internal combustion engine support is to reduce the level of vibration transmitted from the unit to the car body. The rubber-to-metal construction is essentially an iron base with a thick rubber cushion. The device has proven itself well, as it is quite strong and worth the money for nothing.

Eight-valve Lada 2110 engines are attached to the body at 3 points: on the right, left and rear. Side supports through through holes connect the body with the engine block. The rear support is attached with 2 bolts to the box, and 2 nuts to the body. The value of this damper part is very significant - it prevents the longitudinal vibrations of the internal combustion engine during braking and acceleration.

When to change supports power unit on the VAZ 2110: signs and causes

Before changing pillows engine of a VAZ 2110 car and watch a video of this process, it is necessary to study the signs that indicate a breakdown of rubber-metal bearings. The main symptoms that characterize problems with damper nodes:

Replacing the cylinder head vaz 2110 8 valves injector.

  1. Vibrations transmitted to the control wheel and pedal block when idling.
  2. Third-party noise in the cabin when moving on uneven surfaces.
  3. Corresponding knock under the hood during acceleration and braking.

When drawing conclusions from your own observations, do not confuse vibrations in the steering wheel during braking, which are associated with deficiencies in the brake discs or pads. For greater certainty, it is necessary to open the hood and look around the unit supports. If you put your palm on a working internal combustion engine, then there is an option to feel the changes in its operation.

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Years of experience operation Lada 2110 allows us to state that the reasons for the failure of damper cushions are the following reasons:

  • Deformation phenomena on the rubber support due to mechanical and thermal influences, also due to the exhausted resource.
  • Cracking and delamination of rubber from exposure to chemically active components.
  • Loss of elasticity caused by temperature changes.

Replacing the timing belt vaz 2110 8 valves video.

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You will like the early failure of the damper support caused by the owner's excessive enthusiasm for such extreme tricks as a sharp start and critical braking. Suspension parts, well, experience severe loads during their time of movement, and a sporty driving style increases the risk of their breakdown.

We repair competently: how to change damper Engine support cushions VAZ 2110 and videos of workflows

Replacing the right damper support

Before that, how to change, following the example of the video, the right pillow of the engine of a VAZ 2110 car, you should install wheel chocks, and additionally disconnect the "negative" terminal from the battery. The upcoming process is carried out according to the scheme:

  • Loosen the fasteners of the generator with a “13” wrench and remove the belt drive.
  • Loosen tensioner bolt.
  • Jack up the right side of the car.
  • Using a 15 wrench, unscrew the support fastening nut.
  • With a “13” wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the support to the bracket.
  • Unscrew the three bolts securing the bracket to the right side member using the “17” head.
  • Remove the bracket and install the new support in the reverse order.

Replacement left damper support

The procedure for changing the engine damper on the left side of the car is carried out in the following order:

  • Dismantle the crankcase protection of the car.
  • Place a jack under the car in the checkpoint area, slip a wooden beam and raise the car, removing the load from the support.
  • When using a “15” socket and a wrench, unscrew the fasteners of the support pin.

Replacing the engine mount vaz 2110 8 valves.

Replacing the rear damper support

Read how to change the rear engine mounts on a VAZ car 2110 and watching the video is half the battle. It is important to strictly follow the order of the repair:

  • Remove the engine crankcase protection.
  • Unscrew the two nuts fixing the support to the car body using the “17” head.
  • Using two "19" wrenches, unscrew the two bolts securing to the gearbox and remove the support.
  • Clamp the removed bracket in a vise and use the “19” wrench to unscrew the bolt that fixes the support.
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