Rear caliper guides are needed to perform several tasks. Firstly, they are responsible for the absence of the ringing of the car's brakes, and secondly, for the uniformity of braking. The main problem is that this element wears out quite quickly, although a lot depends on the brand of the car. Let's see how to lubricate yourself, and if necessary, change the caliper guides.
Some general information
Before starting work, you need to decide what, in fact, the problem is. But the thing is that the hum and creak during braking can occur for several banal reasons. As a rule, this is a critical wear of a part or a complete or partial lack of lubrication under the anther. This work can be called easy in terms of complexity, the only problem may arise if the anthers are stuck, but this is quickly solved. To begin with, it is desirable to install vehicle on a viewing hole or use a lift. In most cases, a conventional jack will suffice. We remove the wheel and see our actual problem area, which we will have to work with in the near future. If everything is very dirty and nothing is clear, then we pick up a metal brush and carefully clean everything. Be careful not to damage the anthers as they are made of thin rubber.
Necessary tools
Let's take a look at the tools first. The first step is to find the original repair kit for the rear caliper, which consists of a number of spare parts, such as the guide and piston boot, grease, cuff, etc. To make the replacement and lubrication process take as little time as possible, get a hammer and a flat screwdriver, preferably have a set of heads and a torque wrench with you. A clean rag should be on hand, as you will have to work with grease. If the room is dark, then install additional lighting, you can use a special lamp, it will be much more comfortable. Now we can move on to the practical part of solving the problem. For this we shoot rear wheel from the car, having previously raised the side with a jack and set the anti-rollbacks in front of the vehicle.
Replacing caliper guides
We unscrew the bolts from all guides with the appropriate key, there are 4 of them. To do this, you need to use two tools: with one of them, turn the outer bolt, and with the second, hold the nut from turning. After completing this step, you should be able to move the caliper up without any problems. It often happens that it comes out of the blocks rather tight. To solve this problem, use a hammer and light blows, shaking the device in different directions, take it to where you need it. After that, the guides of the rear calipers can be removed without any problems, because they are kept only on the anther. Its dismantling is carried out quite quickly and simply. It is enough to touch the rubber element with a screwdriver and remove it. Please note that the upper finger, unlike the lower one, has a step in the seat, which creates a backlash. When assembling, do not mix them up. This completes the replacement of the caliper guides, you can proceed to the next step.
We continue repair work
If you notice that the brake caliper guides are rusted, then immediately change them. If the condition is satisfactory, then you can leave. Don't forget to remove the pad guides, they usually snap directly into the caliper bracket. Now let's start cleaning the removed elements. To do this, you can use sandpaper (fine-grained). Before applying lubricant, degrease the parts. Do not forget to carry out exactly the same actions with the guide pads, since during operation dirt and water get under the anther, which significantly reduces the performance properties of lubricants. After that, you can install new parts, or old ones, at your discretion. After the assembly is assembled, take a metal brush and go over the brakes, look at the degree of wear of the pads, it is possible that they will have to be changed soon.
Which lubricant to choose?
The question is rather delicate for any motorist. In order for the caliper guides to work in normal conditions and provide proper safety while driving, it is recommended to use high temperature grease. This will almost completely eliminate the possibility of jamming or seizing of the brake pads while driving. When you carry out repairs, be sure to pay attention to the condition of the guide boot. The fact is that dirt and other foreign inclusions get under it. The grease is washed out and loses its original properties. If the guides of the front calipers are wedged, then with a probability of 99% we can say that the problem is lubricant. Every brake pad replacement should include a guide inspection. Remove the boot, remove the layer of old grease and apply a new one to the degreased surface. Staples, as well as the metal surfaces of the pads, must also be processed. For this, anti-charge paste is used. Lubrication can be with the inclusion of copper or with the addition of ceramics (magnesium, disulfide).
How to properly lubricate caliper guides
If you haven't done this in a while, now is the time. First you need a tube of lube. If you purchased a repair kit, then there it is. The paste is orange. If you can’t find grease for guides in car dealerships, which most often happens, then we buy high-temperature paste, several sachets of 6 grams. First remove the two caliper guides and clean them from dust and dirt. If possible, it is desirable to change the anthers. If you will not install new ones, then remove the old ones, wash them and dry them. Lubricant is applied to the finger in a thin layer over the entire surface. Under the anthers, you also need to apply a little lubrication. By the way, do not overdo it, because there is no sense in the fact that the layer will be large. You can put a little paste in the anthers and immediately before installing them. If there are defects on the rubber, then the spare parts must be changed, because they will not cope with their immediate task, the problem with the creak will soon reappear. Let's move on to the next question - this is the installation of a "non-native" guide on the car.
About installing a finger on a car
As noted above, if you notice a knock, creak or other unpleasant sounds in the area of \u200b\u200bthe brake mechanisms of your car, then most likely it is the pads or guides. There are 3 ways out of the situation. Just lubricate everything, install a new repair kit (quite expensive) or, if the guides are worn out, put new ones, but from another car. If the finger is longer than needed, no problem. You can use a metal file and cut it to the desired thickness. After that, it is necessary to remove all burrs from the machined edge so that jamming does not occur during operation. As practice shows, if the diameter matches, then there should be no problems. Likewise, the boot of the guide caliper should sit on the new “finger” without any undue effort.
Knock control measures
Most users complain about the reappearance of knocking after a comprehensive replacement of the caliper guides or its lubrication. In this case, you can take some measures, for example, use a special one, but this will only help for a few thousand kilometers. Another good way- this is an elementary installation of brackets on a caliper. In some cases, they already exist, but if not, then in most cases it is this method that helps to solve all problems with creaking or knocking. If you perform all the actions in the complex, then the result will be positive. To do this, you need to change the guides, lubricate them before installation, also pay attention to the anthers, or rather, their condition. Install the brackets (springs) and enjoy the result.
A few important points
If, after removing the guide calipers, you notice that the fingers are very worn out, then it does not make sense to repair them, it is easier to replace them. It will be faster and cheaper. Remember that during urban or aggressive driving with frequent braking, you need to buy a lubricant that does not change its composition and properties with increasing temperature. The reason for this is that discs can heat up to 300 degrees Celsius and even higher. As for the repair itself, this is a rather expensive procedure, which is far from always expedient. However, if you still decide on it, then purchase repair guide pins and drills of a suitable diameter. The whole point is that the purchased finger has a diameter of 10 mm with a standard 9.5 millimeters. It is bored, lubricated and put back into place.
Conclusion
In this article, a lot has been said about how to replace guides with your own hands. Nothing will work without lubrication, and if it does, it will be for a very short time, due to the high coefficient of friction and temperature, which will quickly damage anthers and other parts. Again, the process of replacing rear and front calipers and repairing them is fundamentally no different. It is also important to know that the finger - the guide of the caliper - has a hole from which you need to get the grease and put a new one in there for more efficient operation. Install all parts in reverse order from removal, tighten everything well. The fingers should move freely on the working surface, but not hang out, that is, without play. Check if the knock has disappeared, then you have achieved your goal. If the problem persists, you need to contact a qualified specialist for help.
When replacing or simply servicing calipers, it is recommended to lubricate rubbing, moving parts with special lubricants to ensure the normal operation of the assembly as a whole. The caliper is one of the main components in the brake system, which requires special attention. Here it is important to monitor the condition of the guides for the clamping brackets, the so-called "fingers", since they are the most vulnerable spot. Moreover, the importance of periodic lubrication is indicated even in the "manuals" of manufacturers, for almost every model.
In the photo: caliper guides and anthers
It is important to understand that if you use inappropriate means, then the effect can be reversed, up to jamming of the “fingers”, pads, pistons. The same awaits drivers whose guides work "dry". Dirt, moisture gets on them, subsequently clogging them and leading to improper operation of the device, the pad is not fully pressed, it starts to wedge, and the like.
On the left, the guide is lubricated at the factory and is in good condition. On the right - the guide is not lubricated, as a result, it has become attached. Photo — drive2.ru
What lubricants are suitable?
In general, they impose standard requirements on the type of effect of the lubricant and its composition. So:
First of all, this is the temperature regime, since the caliper, in principle, operates at extreme temperatures, the lubricant must be appropriate. The minimum sustained heating from 160 degrees.
High operating conditions even at sub-zero temperatures.
It is important that the lubricant is not aggressive to rubber products, as well as plastic. Since there are anthers on the “fingers”. If an aggressive component gets on them, the rubber may swell, and simply will not stick to the “finger”. Often, such lubricants include the usual ones - lithols, greases. None of the above is suitable, as many would not mind. Their main purpose is to remove creaks and rattles.
Weather resistance - snow, rain.
Grease on the guides. So please read the reviews carefully before buying.
Until some time, there was a steady idea that classic greases, lithols are also suitable for lubricating guides, however, as already said, they are aggressive to rubber and plastic. Therefore, the choice should fall on specialized lubricants based on mineral, synthetic oils and natural thickeners. Their properties allow the lubricant not to drain from the guides (good adhesion), to remain temperature resistant. In addition, "synthetics" are not aggressive to seals, resistant to water, acidic liquids. The temperature threshold is usually over 250 degrees.
Specialists distinguish two groups of products, according to the initial composition, that are suitable for lubrication:
1. Mineral. These are pastes, as they are also called, based on mineral water with the addition of various thickeners. The most popular thickener is bentonite, which contains metal particles and acids. The main feature of such lubricants is, in principle, the absence of temperature fluctuations from 50 to 180 degrees. The most famous products from companies: Plastilube VR 500, Loctite LB 8106, Molykote G-3407.
2. The second group of pastes has the property of universal, that is, they are equally suitable for "fingers" and pistons, cylinders. Moreover, they are compatible with rubber, plastic, etc. The basis uses "synthetics", however, refined and with the addition of thickeners and special additives. Additives are designed to improve anti-acid, anti-wear properties. Manufacturers stand out: LOCTITE LB 8021, Mannol 9896 Kupfer, SLIPKOTE 220-R and Permatex 20356, 85188.
Among domestic proposals, we can recall the MS-1600, TsIATIM-221 (with the prefix F, also designed for pistons), UNIOL-1. The latter is recommended in the "manual" for the Vases, but it is difficult to find it. The universal Slipkote 220-R and Anti-Quietsch-Paste are very popular in the domestic market (pay attention to the marking so as not to buy anti-creak).
By the way, regarding the domestic CIATIM-221, if it is suitable for all other parameters, then the temperature regime is only up to 200 degrees. Therefore, they often use it in Russian Lada cars, some budget foreign cars like Chevrolet, KIA, Hyundai. If you actively use the brakes, then the grease will simply leak out and that's it.
Do guide rails always need to be lubricated?
No matter how they think, however, today, not for all “fingers”, there is a need for lubrication. The fact is that such manufacturers as TEVES, LUCAS, ATE constructively provided that the movement of the guides does not occur directly through the rubber seal, but through a special plastic sleeve. If necessary, you can buy a repair kit (including anther, bushing, guide, and even a bracket, from some manufacturers) or simply polish the guide if there are no serious developments.
By the way, lubrication will not help with serious wear on the “finger”. This is the second case when buying a lubricant is not justified to eliminate knocking. There is only one solution - the purchase of new "guides".
The third point is when, when working out on the brackets themselves, the owners try to compensate for this with grease. In such cases, similarly, the lubricant simply cannot cope, and will still be heard. Therefore, the only right way out is to buy new spare parts, or try to restore it by consulting with specialists.
How to properly lubricate? How often is this done?
The first thing to remember is to first inspect the assembly for damage, perhaps a wear has appeared or the anther has torn. Not infrequently, after long-term operation, the formed wear on guides or brackets becomes the cause of knocks and squeaks. Then the most deliberately replace the old parts with new ones. Now there are enough repair kits, even for the most advanced brands brake system.
There is nothing complicated in lubrication, the main thing to remember is that the rule does not apply here, the more the better. Only three grams are enough for one “finger”, you do not need to coat it with a “mountain”. Because the excess can get on the pads, it's a bad thing if it's on the friction linings. As you can imagine, the quality of the brakes will deteriorate significantly. Do not forget to check the course of the guides after assembly, whether they are movable as before.
As for the timing of lubrication, how often it needs to be done, there are no exact and scheduled periods. Those manufacturers who advise doing this agree that it is enough to lubricate after each replacement of pads, discs, pistons, purchase of a repair kit. Well, of course, if you hear knocks, squeaks, then it will not be superfluous to check, lubrication may be needed.
Conclusion
I would like to summarize as follows, remember that not every car needs lubrication of the guides, check with the manufacturer what he specifically says. Perhaps there are plastic bushings for which there is simply no point in lubrication. For example, for domestic Lada, although it is recommended to use CIATIM-221, its temperature regime is not suitable for aggressive driving. The main requirements were put into the article, try to follow them.
In addition, pay attention to the condition of the “fingers”, anthers, repairs may be needed, etc. Approach the choice of lubricant responsibly, consider your own driving style.
Much has been said about the importance of the smooth operation of all elements responsible for the operation of the brake. This article will discuss the repair of the components of the caliper: the piston (cylinder), guides and replacing their boot - with your own hands, you can also clearly learn about this from the attached video.
For a complete understanding of how to repair and replace these parts without problems, it is worth understanding the structure of the front and rear calipers and the reasons for their failure, which repair kit may be required for this.
There are two types of disc calipers - front and rear, their repair method is slightly different, but their main elements are the same:
- The housing in which the piston (cylinder) is attached.
- bypass valve.
- Sealing ring.
- Piston (cylinder).
- Cylinder boot.
- Retaining ring.
- Frame.
- Clamping bar.
- Pads.
- Guide boot.
- Guides.
- 14. Fastening bolt.
- Brake hose.
The difference between the rear disc caliper is the presence of a parking brake.
Therefore, the piston (4) has a special thread, through which it is screwed onto the stem (1) of the parking brake. Due to this, it can work under the influence of two drives - mechanical (parking) and hydraulic.
Causes of failure
The caliper as an element of disc brakes is subjected to significant temperature loads, as well as the effects of external adverse factors: dirt, dust, moisture, and chemicals. All this is due to the fact that his device does not allow him to be protected from data. negative phenomena. With significant overheating, as with a rupture of the anther, the lubrication of the guides may disappear.
Improper maintenance of the guides, in which some craftsmen manage to fill their anthers with inappropriate grease: graphite or similar, causes them to swell and soure, after which they wedge or knock when suddenly triggered.
The rupture of the piston boot entails the ingress of dirt and moisture into it. After that, it stops working - it starts to wedge or, conversely, knock.
Deformation of the O-ring contributes to leakage brake fluid and oiling pads.
repair kit
Replacing a caliper is a drastic measure, often you can limit yourself to repairing and replacing its components. Basically, the standard repair kit includes rubber elements:
- cuffs,
- anthers,
- protective rubber fittings,
- piston seal rings.
But depending on necessary repairs they may include:
- retaining rings,
- clamping brackets,
- guides,
- the pistons themselves.
Thanks to the repair kit, you can significantly save and improve the operation of this brake system unit.
Symptoms
The breakdown of the caliper components and their impending repair can be understood by some signs that occur during braking:
- The car pulls and pulls away from a straight line when braking.
- It is felt that when braking, you have to apply more effort to the pedal, or, conversely, less.
- Brakes rattle or rattle when driving over bumps or when coming to a stop.
- The brakes are wedged, as possible drifts will tell.
- The appearance of smudges of brake fluid on the wheel.
- Recoil in the pedal, expressed in a strong pulsation when the brake is pressed.
When these signs appear, you should not postpone the repair of faulty caliper elements. You need to first figure out why this happened, and make repairs immediately. You can learn more about the signs and causes in the attached videos at the end of the article.
If the brakes are rattling
This type of brake has pressure springs or floating calipers.
They are responsible for fixing the pads to the caliper body. The cause of their failure is the fatigue of the metal or its poor quality. As a result, they lose their elasticity and stop pressing the pads to the body. Because of this, the pads rattle at the slightest drive over bumps and can unevenly contact the disc, which will lead to the appearance of a shoulder or grooves on it. Also in this case, the staples themselves may rattle.
What should be done when brake calipers or pads rattle? If it is not possible to replace them, then it is worth trying to open them with pliers with your own hands to make them more rigid. To do this, they need to be pulled out of their seats, unclenched and inserted into place, after which they will stop rattling for a while.
Faulty piston (cylinder)
The poor quality of the brake fluid, the appearance of rust on the surface when the anther of at least one piston (cylinder) breaks or as a result of a long idle time of the machine entails its partial jamming.
This will initially be heard during a delay in its operation, when the pads begin to knock on the disc. In order to make repairs with your own hands, in this case it is necessary to disassemble the caliper and pull out the rusty piston, you need to do this after the guides are unscrewed and the anther and retaining ring are removed.
If the cylinder still moves even slightly, then you can squeeze it out with the help of a compressor by inserting a hose into the brake fluid supply hole. This can also be done without first disconnecting the body from the brake system, you just need to press the pedal, after which the pressure created will squeeze the cylinder out of its seat. If it is tightly jammed, then soaking it in gasoline and other similar liquids can be a preventive measure.
It should be borne in mind that the rear caliper piston cannot be removed, but simply unscrewed along the thread with round-nose pliers or a similar tool. After that, you need to wash the cylinder seat and clean it from dirt and rust. It is also worth doing with the piston (cylinder) itself. Next, you need to insert the cylinder into place. It will be useful during assembly to replace its anther with a new one. You can see more about this in the attached video.
Leaking brake fluid
When the piston o-ring is worn, the fluid used in the brakes leaks during braking.
To eliminate this breakdown, you will have to remove the caliper completely, dismantle the piston from its body and replace the worn o-ring.
Guide failure
The main problem, if the brake does not work, can be jamming and souring of the caliper guides.
Do-it-yourself repair of this malfunction will not be difficult. By the way, in this case there is no difference when disassembling both the front and rear calipers. To do this, unscrew and pull out both guides. Clean them of dirt or low-quality grease, remove and replace the torn anthers with new ones, after clogging them with a special grease for calipers.
Then put them in place, insert and screw the guides back. Then you should try how the pressure bar moves freely along them. Visually, this can be seen in the attached video at the end of the article.
Do not forget about the body of this brake element. If significant rust, dents, deflection or other mechanical damage is found on it, it should be replaced completely.
If the repair had to be done on the removed caliper, then after installing it in place, the brake system should be bled.
This unpleasant and loud defect is known firsthand to many drivers, and it causes a completely different reaction. Most often, the owner prefers "not to interfere with the car's work" - after all, it's the easiest way, and the "sound" does not particularly affect the operation of the braking system itself. However, there are many meticulous motorists who struggle with sound different ways- for example, lubricating the guides and even refining them.
What to lubricate
It would seem, what could be easier than lubricating the caliper guides? Many owners do just that - during the next “bulkhead” of the brake system, they take and lubricate their fingers with whatever comes to hand. As a rule, lithol and its derivatives, as well as graphite, are in the garage assortment. The more advanced are puzzled by the search for a specialized composition designed specifically for use in the nodes of the brake system.
And now - a surprise: in most cases, both of them are doing it wrong! Yes, the caliper guide pins do need to be lubricated, but by no means with what is usually considered a suitable lubricant, even if it is positioned that way in an auto shop.
Car manufacturers produce guide lubricants under their own brands.
Here is a list of original OEM lubricants from some automakers with part numbers:
- BMW 81 22 9 407 103, 83 23 0 305 690;
- FORD/Motorcraft D7AZ-19A331-A, XG-3-A;
- Volkswagen/Audi G 052 150 A2;
- LAND ROVER RTC7603, SYL500010;
- HONDA 08C30-B0224M, 08798-9027;
- MAZDA 0000-77-XG3A;
- NISSAN 999MP-AB002;
- SUZUKI 99000-25100;
- TOYOTA 08887-80609;
- CHRYSLER/Mopar J8993704;
- Volvo 1161325-4.
There are also lubricants that are produced by manufacturers of auto components and "chemistry" under their own brands:
- ACDelco 89021537 (10-4022);
- Federal Mogul F132005;
- FTE Automotive W0109;
- Stahlgruber 223 1712, 223 1729;
- TRW Automotive PFG110.
1 / 3
2 / 3
3 / 3
Such different lubricants
Unfortunately, in the vast majority of cases, car dealerships (both online and offline) will usually offer “wrong” - that is, anti-creak grease, which simply cannot be used in guides!
The fact is that copper and ceramic anti-creak pastes are designed to be applied to the back of the pads and mating elements of brake calipers, but they are not suitable for "guides" for several reasons. Firstly, after lubrication with grease, lithol, "graphite" and other lubricants based on mineral oils rubber anthers of the fingers almost always swell, stop sticking to the fingers and, in fact, simply cease to fulfill their function.
Secondly, only special greases based on synthetic oils and a thickener are suitable for lubricating guides. Due to this, the lubricant becomes refractory and does not "drain" from the guides after heating, and also does not coke over time from exposure to water and high temperatures. High-quality specialized lubricants hold up to + 300С without any problems, but at the same time they are non-aggressive to seals. Moreover, such lubricants not only do not melt, but also do not dissolve in water, alkalis, dilute acids, brake fluid, as well as methanol and ethanol.
1 / 4
2 / 4
3 / 4
4 / 4
The use of the wrong lubricant in practice can lead to the opposite effect - that is, the lubricated guide pins turn sour in the caliper, due to which the floating bracket loses its mobility, and the pads begin to wedge and overheat.
On thematic forums, hundreds of pages are devoted to choosing the “right” lubricant for guides, but at the same time, the theoretical calculations and practical reviews given often contradict each other, which leads to even more confusion.
One of the most common universal lubricants is the American Slipkote 220-R DBC, although its price is somewhat “biting” - they ask for about a thousand rubles for an 85-gram tube! Slipkote lube is also available in "disposable" 10-gram sachets, which are noticeably cheaper.
1 / 2
2 / 2
In car dealerships, often under the guise of a suitable composition for guide pins, they offer a fairly common lubricant. Liqui Moly Bremsen Anti-Quietsch-Paste (art. 7573, 3077, 3079, 3074) is gray-blue, but the manufacturer itself is currently positioning it as an anti-creak paste and does not recommend using it for lubricating guides and laying in anthers. It contains a ceramic filler that has heat resistance up to 1200C, while the synthetic base can thermally degrade much earlier.
1 / 3
2 / 3
3 / 3
In the production line of this German manufacturer there is a suitable Anti-Quietsch-Paste (art. 7656) in red, which does not affect rubber and plastic elements, but at the same time withstands heating up to + 250C.
The VAZ car repair manual prescribed the use of UNIOL-1 waterproof grease, made on the basis of petroleum oils, to lubricate the guides. As a rule, in our time it is almost impossible to find it on sale, but it is quite possible to find an analogue-substitute - CIATIM-221 calcium grease. It is produced in accordance with GOST 9433-80 and is intended for the lubrication of various rolling bearings. There is also a fluorinated version of CIATIM-221F, which, thanks to the use of ultrafine polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), provides improved extreme pressure and antiwear properties.
1 / 6
2 / 6
3 / 6
4 / 6
5 / 6
6 / 6
CIATIM-221 is inert to polymers and rubber, and also provides a temperature range from -60C to +150C, while maintaining short-term heating up to 200C, due to which it is suitable for use on most "low-speed" cars like front-wheel drive Lad, but there are several "buts ".
Firstly, the dropping point of CIATIM-221 according to GOST 6793-74 is about 200 degrees - that is, in many cases, with the active use of the brakes, it can melt and leak out, so it can hardly replace the “branded” foreign-made lubricants prescribed for applications on modern foreign cars.
Secondly, CIATIM-221 is very expensive and is usually found only in large containers, while just a few grams are enough to lubricate the guides. That is why lubricant manufacturers usually sell them in small bags - but, as you already understood, it is important not to confuse anti-squeak lubricant for brake system components with the “same” product for guides.
Lubrication of the guides does not always solve the problem of knocking - as a rule, when working out in the holes of the caliper brackets during the ride, the parts still move, which leads to extraneous sounds.
Lubricate or replace?
For some cars, you can purchase caliper repair kits, which include anthers, pins and fasteners. True, often the guides are made incomprehensibly by whom and from what - that is, from "raw" metal, and geometric dimensions are not always correct. Some mechanics manage not to change fingers, but, without further ado, simply ... rivet them with a hammer! After that, the guides can simply jam in the caliper ...
This is what the finger looks like after being “repaired” with a hammer. Many car owners have encountered the fact that the calipers began to rattle even during the warranty period. Appeal to official dealer often ended with the replacement of complete assemblies, since not all manufacturers produce individual brake caliper parts as spare parts. At the same time, for Russian VAZs and some foreign-made cars, both clamps, and "palms", and brake cylinders can be purchased separately, and factory-made!
If you began to notice the rattle of calipers on your car, then first of all you should pay attention to two things:
- On brake pad springs that may have weakened
- On the guide pins of the calipers - they may have worn out due to lack of lubrication
This article will consider the second option, when it is the wear of the guide pins that leads to such problems. First of all, you should pay attention to the condition of the anthers. If they are torn or even cracked, then they must be replaced with new ones, and the fingers themselves must be re-lubricated. But more on that below.
A necessary tool for the revision of calipers on the VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112
- Screwdriver with flat blade
- Key for 13 and 17 mm
- Copper grease
- Grease for caliper guide pins
- Brake Cleaner
Replacing the anthers and guide pins of the calipers on the VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112
First you need to unscrew the mounting bolts front wheel jack up the car and remove the wheel completely. After that, using a flat screwdriver, we bend the lock washers of the guide bolts, both from above and below. Then unscrew the fastening bolt, keeping your finger from turning with a 17 mm wrench.
Disengage the brake hose in the front strut, then fold the caliper bracket up. If it does not recline, then use a flat screwdriver to reduce the cylinder.
And now we recline without problems:
Now you can remove the caliper pin from above, as shown in the photo below.
If the finger worked dry for a long time, that is, without lubrication, then most likely it was worn out, which would lead to increased backlash of the caliper bracket, and this, in turn, to rattling, and sometimes even wedging of the caliper.
We take a new guide pin, put a new boot on it and lubricate the pin with special grease. In this case, I bought the MC1600, since there was nothing similar in the store. The cost of a bag for one time is 80 rubles. Not cheap, let's say, but we'll look at the effectiveness a little later.
Lubricant should be applied in a thin layer so that its excess does not fall on brake pads or discs. Since it is high-temperature, it will then take a long and painful time to remove it.
After that, we set it all in place, making sure that the anther sits tightly both on the finger itself and on the caliper. Otherwise, the grease will quickly “leave”, and the fingers will begin to wear out again.
The lower finger changes in the same way, and there will be no problems with this procedure. If for some reason grease has got on the surfaces of brake discs or pads, be sure to remove its residues with a special cleaner.
Video review of the revision of the caliper on the VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112
If you want to look at this report more clearly, then in the above review everything is clearly shown.
If you still have questions, you can discuss both in this article and under the video on the channel.