Mazda gur fluid replacement schedule 3. Brake fluid filling

On Mazda cars, the third series, the manufacturer provides for filling antifreeze as a coolant. Antifreeze is tinted with red, blue and green colors.

Today on sale you can find the original concentrated antifreeze for Mazda 3, the composition of which provides for its dilution by adding distilled water.

If the cooling system is leaky, then the liquid may evaporate or leak, constant monitoring of the level of antifreeze in the expansion tank is required and, if necessary, it should be topped up.

Antifreeze requires replacement at intervals specified by the manufacturer or depending on operating conditions. This need allows you to observe the frost-resistant properties of antifreeze, as well as prevent the occurrence of corrosion. Antifreeze should be replaced at intervals of 90,000 km or after three years from the date of filling.

Antifreeze is based on ethylene glycol, which is ideal for any cooling system that may contain various metals. Usually, percentage The manufacturer indicates the composition of the anti-corrosion additive and antifreeze in the composition on the package.

Coolant change process

Draining the coolant

1. Stop the Mazda 3 engine and wait until it has completely cooled down. Unscrew the cap of the coolant reservoir, to do this, turn it counterclockwise a few turns, then wait a bit, this will be required to relieve pressure in the system. Only then can you completely unscrew the cover and remove it.
2. Put the car on the handbrake, raise the car on the lift.
3. Remove the lower radiator panel located in the center. Unscrew the mounting bolts and disconnect the clips securing the panel.
4. There is a drain plug in the lower right part of the radiator; place an empty container under the drain hole, preferably a large one.
5. Unscrew the plug and drain the coolant into the prepared container.
6. After the liquid drains, bring the container to the drain plug located on the cylinder block. If the engine has a balance shaft, then such drain plugs it will have two, one will be located on the left in front and the other on the left in the back of the block. After unscrewing the drain plugs, allow the liquid to drain completely from the block.
7. Replace all drain plugs that have been removed.

Flushing the cooling system

1. To carry out the process of flushing the radiator, disconnect the pipes going to the radiator from above and below.
2. Next, you will need a garden hose or something similar, insert it into the hole for the top pipe on the radiator. Direct a stream of clean water into the radiator, so you flush the cooling radiator, carry out the procedure until clear water, without impurities, pours out of the hole on the radiator for the lower pipe.
3. If dirty water flows out of the radiator for a long time, then it is worth using special agent for flushing cooling systems.
4. If you use a flushing fluid, then carefully read the manufacturer's instructions for such a product. If your car's radiator is very dirty, then completely remove it, insert the hose into the hole from below, intended for the lower pipe, and start flushing the radiator counterflow.

Coolant filling

1. Before you start filling the cooling system with new antifreeze, check the condition of all hoses and clamps, the hoses must be undamaged, and the clamps must be tight enough. Remember that antifreeze is used all year round, so you can prevent corrosion of engine parts.
2. First, pour the required amount of antifreeze into an empty, clean container of a large volume, add distilled water to it in a 1: 1 ratio, the finished volume of the resulting liquid should be 6.5-7 liters.
3. Slowly start pouring the prepared fluid into the system through the filler hole on expansion tank, take your time, let the air escape through the cooling ducts. Fill the fluid up to the MAX level on the markings on the wall of the expansion tank.
4. Replace the coolant reservoir cap and screw it on tightly.
5. Start the car engine, let it run for idling. Wait for the cooling fan to turn on and then turn off. During this time, the remaining air that has got inside should leave the system. Stop the engine.
6. Wait until the engine has cooled down, then check the level of antifreeze in the tank, if necessary, add antifreeze or distilled water.

Attention! Important!

• Before starting work on replacing antifreeze, turn off the engine and wait for it to cool completely.
• Antifreeze must not be allowed to get on the skin or on the painted parts of the car body, otherwise the indicated surfaces should be washed under a large amount of clean water.
• Do not leave an open container with antifreeze unattended or store it in easily accessible places, and keep it open - the liquid is extremely poisonous!

• After pouring antifreeze into the system, attach a sticker to the neck of the coolant reservoir, on which indicate the type of fluid filled, its color and the date of filling. With further topping up of the coolant, it will be clear which type is needed, and in what proportion.
• When draining antifreeze not for the purpose of replacement, but for other reasons, if it is clean and has been used for less than three years, then it can be reused.
• If the antifreeze was not replaced in a timely manner or a layer of scale, rust and other deposits formed on the walls of the cooling channels, which led to a decrease in the efficiency of the cooling system, then its properties can be restored by flushing the system.

3, this is the transmission of the working pressure of the pump, to the moving parts of the power steering.

Frequency of replacing power steering fluid Mazda 3

It happens that the frequency of fluid replacement is not indicated in the maintenance regulations. Some dealers believe that power steering fluid is not subject to replacement throughout the life of the vehicle. But like the other technical liquid subject to aging and contamination during operation. Experts recommend a planned replacement of Mazda 3 power steering fluid at intervals of 12-24 months, depending on the condition.

If the liquid is dark in color, with obvious signs of impurities, it must be replaced.

Power steering fluid Mazda 3 is a fluid with the Dexron III specification. original oil- Mazda M-III ATF. 1 liter of oil is enough to replace.

Power steering fluid is being replaced different ways. Here are the main options.

Mazda 3 with a 1.6 liter engine has power steering. There are two supply and supply hoses that go to the tank, but the replacement principle can be used the same.

Mazda 3 with a 2.0 liter engine has an EGUR, pressure is pumped by an electric pump and only one hose goes from the tank to the pump.

The general technology is the same:

• Jack up the front wheels so they are off the ground.
• Disconnect the return hose - the one with a self-tightening clamp. Drain some of the liquid and stop. An old spark plug will do.
• Substitute a container for draining under the other part.
• Add new fluid to the reservoir up to the maximum mark.
• With the engine off, the assistant turns the steering wheel from lock to lock left and right.
• Monitor the level in the tank and the color of the liquid at the outlet. The new fluid gradually replaces the old one.
• Connect pipelines.
• Add liquid up to the maximum mark.
• Start the engine with the wheels off. And three more times turn the steering wheel left and right until it stops, do not hold the steering wheel in extreme positions.
• Make sure there are no leaks. Stop the engine.
• Lower the car to the ground.

We get the effect of replacing the Mazda 3 power steering fluid - the liquid is bright pink, and the steering wheel turns two times easier.

Privat! Let's get straight to the point.

You will need: Mazda 3 with an old brake fluid. Brake fluid 0882380004 TOYOTA 467 rubles. Keys for 8 and 9 are free.

Assistant - 1.5 liters of beer.

We start with the right rear wheel, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front, then the clutch slave cylinder. Jack up the car and remove the left rear wheel, unscrew the cap of the brake fluid reservoir, put the assistant behind the wheel. We put a rubber tube on the fitting (washer tube windshield, in any department of AvtoVAZ), then unscrew it with a key of 8 and the assistant starts to press the brake pedal.

From this line, we must drain the entire volume of the tank + the volume of the line, in order to drain only the line from the following lines, sorry for the tautology. In order not to air the system, it is necessary to constantly monitor the level of brake fluid and pour it into the tank. Also, in order not to air it, you can pump it in the following way - with the fitting closed, press the brake pedal 3-4 times, leave it in the lower position, open the fitting, liquid will flow vigorously under pressure, then close the fitting, after closing, release the brake pedal and again press it 3-4 times, open the fitting, etc. Well, in general, here ... We merged the tank and the right highway, unscrew the LZ wheel, drain the line, unscrew the PP wheel, drain the line. By the way, on the front wheels there is a turnkey fitting No. 9. We unscrew the LP wheel, drain the line, it is the smallest.

It remains only to drain the brake fluid from the working cylinder, I had to look for it :)

I did not remove the protection completely, I unscrewed the two front bolts to stick my hand through. In theory, the clutch is pumped by the clutch pedal, but my fluid flowed very cheerfully by gravity. And when they tried to pump the pedal, it remained in the lower position. In short, this is how I changed the brake system, I didn’t notice anything new on the brakes, the clutch pedal became a little easier. Although now, a week later, I think she has remained the same.

I'm also taking my air filter to court. I confess, I confess.

Something like this.

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Liquids for Mazda: what and where to fill?

Various working fluids and oils are needed in a car in order to:

• avoid overheating,
• achieve better lubrication of rubbing surfaces,
• transmit force, etc.

Topping up is a responsible and important process. However, it is carried out only if there is an expense. If the indicators on the tank or dipstick are within normal limits - between the MIN and MAX marks, then nothing needs to be added. It is better to monitor the level regularly - once every two to three days. It also doesn't hurt to check the levels both before and after a long trip.

A sharp drop in the level may indicate a malfunction - it is better to immediately contact a specialized service.

Filling the brake fluid

Example brake fluid for Mazda

Brake fluid is needed in a car to transfer force from the brake pedal to the pads that directly block the wheels, causing the car to stop. To find where to fill it in Mazda 3 - open the hood and look for a white tank near the engine wall (windshield), on the lid of which there is an inscription "DOT" (the lid is black, and the inscriptions are yellow). Before pouring, we look at the level on the front wall, relative to the movement of the car, there are corresponding marks on the wall. The normal value is in the middle between them. It is better to use brake fluids marked DOT 3 or 4 for filling.

Pour oil

One of the oils Mazda

The only place in the Mazda 3 where you can fill in the oil yourself is the engine. Here, for this, a special neck is provided, closed with a lid with the corresponding designation "oiler". Before topping up - check its level with a dipstick. If it is between the minimum and maximum marks, nothing needs to be poured.

The choice of oil for Mazda 3 depends on the tastes of the driver. Quite a lot of owners prefer to fill branded oil Mazda, which was originally used in factory production (the car comes with it in the engine). Other owners prefer well-known world brands, which also focus on the operating parameters of the majority when developing and producing oils. modern cars.

Antifreeze

Antifreeze offered by Mazda

Coolant - antifreeze, is designed to maintain the operating temperature of the engine and prevent it from overheating. The place where to fill it in the Mazda 3 can be found if you look at engine compartment from the headlights - to the left of the engine there will be an expansion tank. Add antifreeze only when the engine is cold - otherwise there is a risk of burns from hot steam and antifreeze.

The normal level is between the minimum and maximum marks. For topping up, it is best to use branded Mazda antifreeze. The fact is that the recipe is a secret of car manufacturers. At the same time, it is selected so that the liquid for all surfaces with which it comes into contact is not aggressive. This property allows antifreeze to serve for a long time (90 thousand mileage or 3 years of operation).

The selection of working fluids and oils must be approached with special care. It is better to use the original ones, but if they are not available, and replacement / topping up is necessary, take those that are better in quality, in the case of antifreeze, this parameter will be the color.

mazdavod.ru

brake fluid replacement - logbook Mazda 3 2008 on DRIVE2

From the title it is clear that the liquid was asked for a replacement, it is also a clutch fluid, due to which, perhaps, the speeds of the reasons described here did not turn on well, surprisingly helped! Maybe it’s because the fluid hasn’t been changed for sure since the very birth of the car, there are so many things on the car and it was native. Replaced with dot 4 from Honda. Replacement after two years according to the manual. This is how you need to follow and not only change the oil in the engine, but also brake system. I will say that the speeds began to turn on noticeably better, which means there is an effect from the operation done! Changed to a hundred. Having attached a tank with a new fluid to the filler neck of the brake fluid reservoir, and on the other hand, air was supplied to the reservoir under pressure, and by displacing the old fluid from each brake caliper, the old fluid was bled off little by little, and for one from the line leading to each brake caliper. In general, no physical intervention is needed due to pumping the pedal, the brakes remained normal. Maybe even a little more sensitive, it all took about an hour. It took about 900 grams of liquid somewhere. Now another two years and then again to replace. Since the liquid absorbs water, its density deteriorates. Both the brakes and the clutch deteriorate. Now it remains to enjoy the good work of the brakes and clutch, or again encounter problems like those described here, which led to the replacement of not only the fluid but also the rails. and here it will probably cost a maximum of a brake slave cylinder and probably a couple more cylinders))))) I will hope that everything will be fine))) not like with a rail)))

Issue price: 2 000 ₽ Mileage: 116000 km

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Brake fluid - how much to replace? - We service Mazda 3

Welcome all. I recently bought a Matrekha 2L Restyle. Changed all fluids, filters, etc. There was only one question regarding the brake fluid. I climbed on the forum, many write that 1 liter is needed to replace, but the clutch on the Mazda is hydraulic, so I wondered where the liquid for it comes from. Therefore, for those who have experienced this, I would like to ask a few questions: 1. Should I use my own separate tank for the clutch or is the liquid taken from the general system? 2. How much brake fluid is needed for a complete replacement, taking into account the fact that a separate reservoir goes to the clutch or is the fluid taken from a common system?

2. a week ago I changed it for TO-60,000. 1 liter

A lot of liters, take 0.75 .. even left!

0.7325 canister price 300 rubles

less than a liter, one barrel for both the clutch and the brakes))

Thanks for the help, I just don’t understand then why they told me that a liter would be even small, and supposedly 2 liters would be needed, taking into account the fact that the entire system should be replaced (

idiots))

A lot of liters, take 0.75 .. even left!

0.7325 the price of a canister is 300 rubles, and here the price. A question was asked ... I gave an answer. Yes, depending on what kind of liquid to pour. Yes, and the volume is different ... I personally took three of 0.25 each.

I am an adherent of filling in normal liquids - therefore, I filled the engine with Dexelia Ultra 5W-30, a box of Motul Gear 300 and now I’m going to ATE Dot 4 or also Motul into the brake. It's just that this question about displacement has baffled me. The guys I know change everything for me, I know them for a long time, they are adequate and shy, so you can’t call them idiots))) Most likely it means they said that 2 liters for reinsurance, because they didn’t encounter the replacement of the brake fluid in the Mazda and somehow expressed that if only the brake fluid changing 1 liter was enough, but here the clutch hydraulic actuator is also tied up, so, according to them, the fluid will also be needed to bleed the clutch

fit in a liter, 700 grams is necessary, well, plus a vice ... a liter .... the clutch swings with 4 pumps completely))))) 40 grams)))))

I am an adherent of filling in normal liquids - therefore, I poured Dexelia Ultra 5W-30 into the engine, a Motul Gear 300 box, and now I’m going to ATE Dot 4 or Motul too into the brake. It’s just that this question about the displacement has confused me. The guys I know change everything for me, I know them for a long time, they are adequate and shy, so you can’t call them idiots))) Most likely it means they said that 2 liters for reinsurance, because they didn’t encounter the replacement of the brake fluid in the Mazda and somehow expressed that if only the brake fluid changing 1 liter was enough, but here the clutch hydraulic actuator is also tied up, so, according to them, the fluid will also be needed to bleed the clutch

yes, I personally changed it myself, they pumped it completely ... two liters are not really needed. If you don’t believe it .. take a liter ... enough for the eyes!

and hungover?)))))))))

Thank you people I'll take a liter of brake fluid and get sober as solyaris77 advised

And which brake fluid is better to pour, 4 or 5.1, and is there a difference?) And the question is still this: how many liters do you need to change the oil in a manual transmission?

In the manual transmission, I changed it a week ago for a 2l sport, I bought 3 liters of Motul. And I poured the brake DOT4.

On sports in a box of 4.04 liters .. 800 grams of brake fluid in the system!

And which brake fluid is better to pour, 4 or 5.1, and is there a difference?) And the question is still this: how many liters do you need to change the oil in a manual transmission?

As far as I know, the difference in boiling point at 5.1 is higher, so if you often slow down, it’s probably better))

on sports in a box of 4.04 liters .. the brakes in the system are 800 grams!

Where did you get such a number from? Maybe you meant the oil in the 4.3l engine? Or am I missing something and driving with a half-empty box?))))

Attached images

topic about brake fluid .. but still .. in any case, it is filled up to the control hole ...

I realized that about the brake fluid and the fact that no more than a liter was also suggested to me by kind people on the forum. I just really didn’t understand where 4.04 liters came from in the manual transmission if it’s 3 in the manual. Don’t scare me like that))))

Everything about the brakes is clear. But not so much about the box. Why the hell did they give me 4l Motul for a box?

friends called here ... asked casually .. they said, like 3.04

I didn’t understand about the difference between DOT 5 and DOT 4 liquids, can someone tell me?)

and on the cover of DOT3 it is written .. pchm ??

*4 - When using the vehicle in dusty conditions or in sandy areas, replacement air filter every 7500 km or 6 months.

Mazda 3 MPS maintenance schedule since 2008

O - cleaning, Z - replacement, P - check, T - broach, C - lubrication

*1 - If the vehicle is used in any of the following conditions, it is recommended to change motor oil and oil filter every 7500 km:

• Long-term work on Idling or driving at low speeds.
• Long periods of operation in cold weather or constant driving only for short distances.

*2 - Also checked and adjusted drive belts power steering and air conditioning, if this equipment is installed on the vehicle.

*3 - If you use the brakes frequently or if you operate the vehicle in a humid climate, change the brake fluid every year.

*4 - When using the vehicle in dusty conditions or sandy areas, change the air filter every 7500 km or 6 months

Maintenance regulations Mazda 3 (1.6 l) until 2008 release

O - cleaning, Z - replacement, P - check, T - broach, C - lubrication

*1 - If the vehicle is used in any of the following conditions, it is recommended to change the engine oil and oil filter every 7500 km:

• Vehicle use in dusty conditions.
• Continuous idling or driving at low speeds.
• Long periods of operation in cold weather or constant driving only for short distances.

*2 - The power steering and air conditioning drive belts, if this equipment is installed on the vehicle, are also checked and adjusted.

*3 - If you use the brakes frequently or if you operate the vehicle in a humid climate, change the brake fluid every year.

*4 When using the vehicle in dusty conditions or sandy areas, change the air filter every 7500 km or 6 months.

Maintenance regulations for Mazda 3 (1.6) since 2008

• Using the car in dusty conditions
• Continuous idling or driving at low speeds.
• Long periods of operation in cold weather or constant driving only for short distances.

Maintenance regulations for Mazda 3 (2.0) until 01/01/2008 of the year of release

O - cleaning Z - replacement P - check T - broach C - lubrication

*1 If the vehicle is used in any of the following conditions, it is recommended to change the engine oil and oil filter every 7500 km:

• Using the car in dusty conditions
• Continuous idling or driving at low speeds.
• Long periods of operation in cold weather or constant driving only for short distances.

*2 Also check and adjust the power steering and air conditioning drive belts, if this equipment is installed on the vehicle.

*3 If you use the brakes frequently or if you operate the vehicle in a humid climate, change the brake fluid every year.

*4 When using the vehicle in dusty conditions or sandy areas, change the air filter every 7500 km or 6 months

MAINTENANCE REGULATIONS MAZDA 3 (2.0) from 01.01.08

O - cleaning Z - replacement P - check T - broach C - lubrication

*1 If the vehicle is used in any of the following conditions, it is recommended to change the engine oil and oil filter every 7500 km:

• A) Using the car in dusty conditions
• B) Prolonged idling or driving at low speeds.
• C) Long periods of operation in cold weather or constant driving only for short distances.

*2 Also check and adjust the power steering and air conditioning drive belts, if this equipment is installed on the vehicle.

*3 If you use the brakes frequently or if you operate the vehicle in a humid climate, change the brake fluid every year.

*4 When using the vehicle in dusty conditions or sandy areas, change the air filter every 7500 km or 6 months

There are many points that interest motorists, they mainly relate to the technical part of the car. This interest arises for a reason, but in order to get acquainted with the device of your car or self repair or service.

Yes, there are types of repairs that you can do yourself, especially since all the information of interest is on the Internet.

Preliminary preparation

Now we will touch on how the oil is changed in the power steering in a Mazda 3 car. Well, everyone understands the issue with oil. For the most part, it has the function of lubricating components and assemblies. In the power steering, oil circulates through the hoses and lubricates all the nodes connecting it.

The level of this type of oil can be easily checked and filled. To do this, the expansion barrel, where it is contained, has a maximum and a minimum mark.

Power Steering is in the common people hydraulics, the function of which is for the driver to easily turn wheel and set the trajectory. If this system is violated, then the control of the car is not lost, it just becomes harder for a person to turn the steering wheel. This state is not habitual, and can lead to unpredictable situations.

Checking the fluid level is easy, there are special marks for this, which we talked about above. During the operation of the vehicle, oil smudges are possible at the connecting points of the hoses.

Accordingly, the liquid level in this case gradually drops. This should not be allowed, because over time it can completely leak out and the system will start to run dry, which can lead to pump failure.

The result of all this will cost a decent sum of money. The power steering pump is put into operation after starting the engine. The best option if the oil has leaked out, the car will be evacuated.

In order to carry out timely prevention, several steps must be taken. There should not be any difficulties in this. Everything is assessed by visual inspection. Start by assessing the oil level in the power steering, and its quality, check the tension of the drive belts, inspect the hoses for cracks and damage.

How to change the oil in the power steering on a Mazda 3?

You can change the oil in the power steering in Mazda 3 in 2 ways: partial and complete. In case of partial replacement You will only need a syringe. The replacement procedure is as follows: unscrew the cap in the expansion tank, pump out all the liquid in it with a syringe, then fill it with new oil to the maximum mark, start the engine and turn the steering wheel to the right and left to the final position.

Then we turn off the engine and after a couple of minutes we start it again and repeat the procedure. This must be done until the time when your oil does not brighten.

The next way is complete replacement oils. This option is considered to be of higher quality and practical. Mazda 3 has a certain algorithm that must be followed.

1. You will need to take care of a little vehicle raise. This can be done with a flyover or a jack. We raise only the front of the machine so that the front wheels are on weight, and you can easily rotate them manually.

3. Now let's deal with the hoses, we need to decide which of the hoses is responsible for the flow of oil into the tank, and which one is for supplying oil to the pump.

4. When everything is ready, we need to assemble the plug and drain hose. A piece of hose 30-50 cm in size is suitable for the plug. You will have to work a little with the drain hose. But don't worry, it's easy to construct too. To do this, you will need 3 things: a fitting, an adapter and a hose of about 3 meters. This is the length you will need for ease of use.

5. We start with the hose through which the oil flows. We disconnect it, and extend it with the help of a drain hose, which is directed into the drain container. In the place of disconnection in the expansion tank, it is necessary to install a plug. While everything is draining, new liquid is poured into the barrels to the maximum.

6. In order for the liquid to start draining, you need to turn the steering wheel left and right to the limit. It is not necessary to start the engine during this procedure. Naturally, new oil will go into the system from the tank and it must be gradually topped up. This procedure is carried out until light oil comes out of the hose. You simply pump it throughout the Mazda 3 power steering system.

7. We still have a power steering pump that has not been cleaned. To do this, we start the engine, but not for a long time (about 1-2 seconds is enough).

8. We return the hoses to their original position and add new oil to the level. That's it, the oil in the power steering system has been changed. After some time, check the level on the expansion tank a couple of times.