Hello…

Here fse Svidomo, Vega, Stas, Volodya and Mikha..utin...

So, a record of a small do-it-yourself car maintenance Mitsubishi Lancer X Sportback.. mileage 142,377 km.. Mika will soon be 8 years old..

The fluid in the brakes and hydraulic clutch was replaced, with pumping ... partial replacement coolant fluids...

Brake fluid, antifreeze and distilled water were purchased from an online store with the letter E ...

Liquid Liqui Moly, dot 4, "BRAKE FLUID" - 1l at the price - 675 re..

Antifreeze concentrate Ravenol HJC Hybrid Japanese Coolant Concentrate 5l - at a price of 2179 r..

Distilled water Oilright, 20l - at a price of 258 rubles..

On a Sunday sunny day, I drove to the overpass (50 re / hour) to change the fluid..

First of all I changed brake fluid.. for these purposes I bought a syringe in a pharmacy, and a 6mm hose was available, left from the aquarium ..

I pumped out the old liquid from the GTZ barrel with a syringe and filled in a new one, up to MAX ..

Then, on the brake caliper, he removed the cap from the screw on the bleed hole. I attached a hose to the screw, lowered its other end into a container with a small amount of brake fluid ... I unscrewed the screw from the bleed hole, the assistant pressed the brake pedal.

It is important to prevent air from entering the line ...

Therefore, during the entire procedure, the assistant monitored the level of brake fluid in the tank .. When fresh fluid flowed from the bleed hole, and it differs from the old one in color))), tightened the screw.

I repeated the same steps on the remaining calipers ... according to the scheme:

With a hydraulic clutch, the procedure is similar, except that the assistant pressed the clutch pedal and the slurry from the clutch poured blacker ... but it’s understandable there it wasn’t changed at all)))

Clutch drain.. top view..

plus I had to cut the key by 13 ... since the nozzles interfere with the work with an ordinary key))) it’s not convenient to turn ...

Coolant slurry .. Removed protection .. both metal and plastic ...

I unscrewed the cap on the radiator, opened the expansion tank. He opened the drain cock of the radiator ... he set up a bucket specially bought in the castarama ...

Only 3 liters drained from the radiator ... There are no drain plugs on the block ... it makes sense to remove the pipe to drain a glass of fluid from the engine jacket .. I don’t see it .. because by the location of the pipe and its configuration, I have the opinion that more than a glass can’t be drained from there ...

Then he poured the liquid from expansion tank. With the help of pliers, he squeezed the clamp on the hose, moved it, then removed the hose itself. Removed the expansion tank. I poured the liquid out of it and washed it with water ...

To clean the drain circuit, I poured distilled water into the radiator and waited until it drained ...

I diluted the concentrate with water in a ratio of 50/50 and poured it into the system. Close the drain cock on the radiator tightly. I installed the expansion tank in its original place and added liquid to the “FULL” mark.

New fluid to top up..

I turned off the air conditioner, and set the temperature control of the stove to maximum. I started the engine and warmed it up until the fan on the radiator turned on, and then turned off the engine. Checked the fluid level..

Result.

The clutch pedal has become much softer and lighter ..

"Hiccups" disappeared when shifting gears at low speeds ..

The Lancer 10 generation shows itself very well in terms of maintainability and laboriousness of maintenance ...

If it's time to replace the antifreeze in your Mitsubishi, then you should know the manufacturer's instructions on this matter.

For Mitsubishi Lancer X, the manufacturer recommends changing the fluid for the first time after purchase after 4 years of operation or 96,000 km, whichever you reach earlier.

Subsequent times it needs to be changed after 48,000 km or 2 years.

How much antifreeze do you need

According to the manual, the volume of the cooling system is about 7 liters. It should be borne in mind that for the motor 1.5 antifreeze will go order less than in a 2.0 engine.

There is nothing complicated in this process, so if you decide to make a replacement without the help of masters, then there are many videos on the network that will tell and show everything step by step.

It should be noted that it is much more difficult to replace without a hole.

Also note that antifreeze is a highly toxic substance and should be avoided inhaling its fumes and direct skin contact. In the absence of desire or necessary conditions, you can use the services of a well-established car service.

Which antifreeze to choose for Lancer 10

The first thing to consider is what kind of antifreeze is poured into the system. Although it is customary to classify coolant by color, this is meaningless today. Different manufacturers paint their product in the color they see fit.

So for sure you can only find out the class of antifreeze by keeping the capacity from the last replacement or by having an entry in the service book. A liquid that has a dark blue tint, or if it is dark green in color, is antifreeze, its value is many times less than antifreeze. If you cannot accurately determine the class of antifreeze filled in, flush the system with a special agent or distilled water.

Today, antifreeze is classified into several types. By properties and composition, it is divided into: G11, G12, G12+, G12++, G13. If you have a car, let's say 2008, and during operation, corrosion could already have appeared on the radiator parts, then in order to deal with it, a G12 class liquid is better. And the additive package in antifreeze G12 + and above is suitable for cars from 2012 and newer. It does not fight as effectively with already formed rust, but creates a durable protective layer to prevent damage. As for brands, it is better not to save money and use trusted manufacturers with a name that you trust. Use stores you trust and beware of fakes that literally flooded the market.

How is the replacement

Replacing the coolant for all Lancer 10 cars is almost the same. Regardless of the year and engine size, whether it is 1.6 or 1.8, or a restyled model, the technical holes on the radiator and cylinder block are located the same. The first thing to do is let the car cool down if it's off the road.

After, you need to open the cap on the radiator, in order to avoid a vacuum in the system. Then we remove the engine protection and on the radiator we find the screw, which is located in the lower right corner.

Having unscrewed it, we lower the liquid from the radiator. Then you need to drain the old antifreeze from the block by removing the lower radiator hose. Pay attention to the expansion tank, there may still be a decent amount of liquid left, it must be removed in any way possible, for example, with a rubber bulb. Wait a short time until everything drains and reinstall the radiator hose and plug. If you decide to use flushing, then fill it into the system, and then repeat everything again. Antifreeze must be poured into the radiator neck.

To avoid air locks you can squeeze the nozzle with your hands during pouring and pour gradually. Then you need to start the car and add the right amount of antifreeze to the expansion tank. After that, the coolant change is completed. Have a nice and warm trip.

Antifreeze for Mitsubishi Lancer X

The table shows the type and color of the required antifreeze for filling in Mitsubishi Lancer X,
produced from 2008 to 2014.

Year	Engine	Type	Colour	Lifetime	Featured Manufacturers
2008	petrol, diesel	G12+	red	5 years	Havoline, AWM, G-Energy
2009	petrol, diesel	G12+	red	5 years	Havoline, MOTUL Ultra, Freecor, AWM
2010	petrol, diesel	G12+	red	5 years	Havoline, AWM, G-Energy, Freecor
2011	petrol, diesel	G12+	red	5 years	Frostschutzmittel A, VAG, FEBI, Zerex G
2012	petrol, diesel	G12++	red	5 to 7 years old	Freecor QR, Freecor DSC, Glysantin G 40, FEBI
2013	petrol, diesel	G12++	red	5 to 7 years old	FEBI, VAG, Castrol Radicool Si OAT
2014	petrol, diesel	G12++	red	5 to 7 years old	Frostschutzmittel A, FEBI, VAG

When buying, you need to know the shade - Colour and Type antifreeze, valid for the year of manufacture of your Lancer X. Select the manufacturer of your choice. Do not forget - each type of fluid has its own lifespan.
For example: for Mitsubishi Lancer (Body X) 2008, with a gasoline or diesel engine type, suitable - carboxylate antifreeze class, type G12 + with shades of red. The approximate next replacement period of which will be 5 years. If possible, check the selected fluid against the requirements of the vehicle manufacturer's specifications and service intervals. It is important to know Each type of liquid has its own color. There are rare cases when a type is tinted with a different color.
The color of red antifreeze can be from purple to light pink (green and yellow have the same principles).
Mix liquid from different manufacturers - can if their types match the blending conditions. G11 can be mixed with G11 analogues G11 must not be mixed with G12 G11 can be mixed with G12+ G11 can be mixed with G12++ G11 can be mixed G13 G12 can be mixed with G12 analogues G12 must not be mixed with G11 G12 can be mixed with G12+ G12 must not be mixed with G12++ G12 must not be mixed with G13 G12+, G12++ and G13 can be mixed together It is not allowed to mix Antifreeze with Antifreeze. No way! Antifreeze and Antifreeze - very different in quality. Antifreeze is the trade name for the traditional type (TL) of an old-style coolant. At the end of the service life - the liquid completely discolors or becomes very dull. Before replacing one type of fluid with another, flush the car radiator with plain water.

Today, according to the type of anti-corrosion additives, it is customary to distinguish between carboxylate and silicate antifreezes.

• The former incorporate organic-based corrosion inhibitors. Carboxylate antifreezes are adsorbed only in places where corrosion occurs and form a protective layer, the thickness of which does not exceed 0.1 microns. This type of antifreeze has a longer service life - up to five years and more effective cleaning properties. This feature allows not to carry out flushing when changing the coolant.
• The use of silicate antifreeze involves full coverage inner surface. These liquids are colored blue and green. Mixing the mentioned types of antifreeze is strictly prohibited.

Manufacturers often recommend replacing the coolant after 60 thousand kilometers or after 4 years of car operation, whichever comes first. Immediate replacement of the coolant is relevant when the color changes to reddish, since the antifreeze has become aggressive to the parts of the cooling system due to the production of inhibitory additives.

Step-by-step procedure for replacing antifreeze in Mitsubishi cars

Replacement should only be idle engine. Be careful as antifreeze is toxic. The cap of the radiator reservoir must be tightly closed when starting the engine, otherwise the coolant will flow from under the loose cap due to the high pressure of the cooling system when the engine is running.

1. Park your car on a level, level ground.
2. Unscrew the tank cap and remove the radiator cap. On the right side of the lower radiator tank there is a drain cock hole. Place a container under it and drain the liquid from the radiator.
3. Before draining the antifreeze, you can leave the mudguard on, in which case you will have to prevent splashing of liquid under the car.
4. Squeeze the lower radiator hose clamp with pliers and slide the clamp along the hose. Remove the hose and drain the antifreeze into a prepared container.
5. One of the heating hoses of the throttle assembly should be removed by squeezing the clamp of its attachment with pliers to ensure that the antifreeze is completely drained from the system and to ensure that air is eliminated during refueling.
6. In the next step, it's time to install the lower radiator hose and close the drain cock.
7. Next, the cooling system must be filled by pouring antifreeze into the radiator until it begins to splash out of the fitting and from the removed valve. As soon as the liquid begins to flow out, the hose will need to be replaced and secured with a clamp.
8. Next, antifreeze must be added to the radiator until it overflows to the expansion tank through the hose from the neck. Don't forget to close the stopper tightly. Fluid should be filled until it reaches the “F” mark.

At the final stage, start the engine and warm it up until the fan turns on. Stop the engine and check that the coolant level is correct. Add antifreeze if necessary.

Replacing antifreeze Lancer 9

So, let's discuss the urgent topic soon (Epiphany frosts on the nose!) - the replacement of antifreeze. Let's take the experimental Lancer 9, mechanic, 2005, with a mileage of 130,000 km.

"Go"! It is worth draining the old antifreeze from a cold engine, as well as removing the cap from the radiator, otherwise there is a chance of getting burned, I will explain, until the system has cooled down, it will be under pressure. If time does not wait, then it is still worth waiting at least 30 minutes before proceeding with the manipulations.

By the way, for this work you will need: (Water that has undergone special treatment, with the help of which organic and mineral chemical compounds, heavy metal salts and other micro and macro elements that can have a negative impact on a car or any other equipment) are filtered out) 2 pcs = 9 -10 liters, interchangeable socket head 14 mm, backstage cardan, ratchet key(extension or collar), as well as pliers.

Unscrew the cover

2. Open the expansion tank

3. Unscrew the tap on the radiator. You can adapt any drain, it all depends on your imagination, what happened to me.

4. Next, we take on the antifreeze in the block. There is a drain plug (located next to the oil pressure sensor at the back of the engine, you won’t be able to see it, and don’t try. We continue to search by touch. Here you will need a cardan shaft, a socket head for 14, an extension cord. I draw your attention, it is unscrewed quite hard.

From the block we merge directly to the ground, since it is difficult to step up.

5. And the last place where we drain the liquid is the expansion tank. Squeeze the clamp on the hose with pliers, pull it to the side and remove the hose.

We take out the tank, wash it and put it in place.

6. We wrap the faucet on the radiator and twist it into place drain plug cylinder block. Next, remove one of the throttle assembly heating hoses. It is pulled together similarly to the hose of the expansion tank.

7. Fill in distilled water for flushing until it flows out of the throttle heating hose and the fitting on which it was pulled. At the moment when the leakage begins, we put the heating in place and start the engine. Leave the radiator cap open.

We heat it up to operating temperature, as soon as the fans turn on, turn off and repeat the entire drain process, with the exception of the expansion tank. It is best to let the motor cool again, otherwise you can get scalded !, unscrewing the plug of the block. Usually, one rinsing is enough, but we recommend rinsing twice for peace of mind. On the second flush, the water should be almost clear.

Ready! we twist the faucet and plug (point 7), but closing the radiator cap. It breaks about 5 liters, fill in a new coolant (antifreeze) into the tank according to the level. We warm the car to operating temperature and turn it off. We check all connections for smudges and, if necessary, add liquid to the tank.

Readers, be careful on the roads! Congratulations on Epiphany frosts!

p.s. which, by the way, this year is not scary at all.