For correct operation, it must be remembered that the first start-up of the electric motor must be carried out by experienced adjusters with a representative of the electrical installation organization. Consider what actions must be performed for the normal operation of electric machines using motors.
It is necessary to check the completeness of the engine - the condition of the transmission from the electric motor to the driven mechanism, the presence of a protective casing of the electric motor fan, the presence of the required lubrication in the bearings and the reliability of the grounding of the device. It is worth checking all types of engine protection. They must be tested before start-up.
It is also necessary to make a complete inspection of the internal component of the electric motor, check the positions of the brushes, make sure that there are no random objects and check the connections between the windings. It is recommended to make sure that the shaft moves freely. It is mandatory to check the insulation of power circuits with a megger, connect the ammeter to the winding circuit and calculate the starting current of the electric motor.
The motor starting circuit must be checked in chain. It is necessary to provide for a situation in case of an unexpected failure of the electric motor control circuit when it is turned off. It is worth taking into account the presence of emergency voltage relief by the nearest reliable knife switch or machine.
In some cases, it is desirable to provide for the possibility of mechanical braking.
Consider possible special starting methods, which may depend on the power of the supply network.
Before the first start-up of the electric motor, it is necessary to check the actual insulation resistance of the windings, which must correspond to technical parameters according to GOST or TU.
Initially, the electric motor starts for 2-4 seconds. During start-up, the direction of rotation of the shaft of the device, the condition of the running gear, the presence of extraneous noise, the magnitude of the starting current and the reliability of the operation of the disconnecting devices are checked. It is also necessary to check the condition of the safety devices.
In the absence of any comments, it is worth idling the electric motor for a longer period. During this action, it is important to measure the no-load current - according to the indicators indicated by the manufacturer, it should not be higher than 10%. The motor accelerates and should reach a steady speed. Having reached a steady speed, the electric motor can be turned off.
After the electric motor is started, it is necessary to check the vibration. Then you can proceed to the full operation of the electric motor.
When connecting the electric motor to the pump, the pump and the electric motor are centered. After a trial run for 25-30 minutes, the unit is turned on for a longer time with the pump for running. Run-in should be done within 7-10 hours to grind the moving links of mechanisms and promptly identify weaknesses control schemes for the entire system and checking the electric motor for heating. During this time, it can be concluded that there is excess heat generation in any part of the electric motor. If there is damage to the motor windings, a characteristic smell of burnt insulation may appear.
If any problems are noticed, the motor will immediately shut down without warning.
Before starting the engine, check the presence of coolant in the cooling system and the oil level in the crankcase. Pump fuel into the carburetor with the fuel pump hand drive lever.
Starting a cold engine at temperatures from 0 C and above
Set the gear lever to neutral position. Press the control pedal several times throttle valve carburetor. Disengage the clutch and turn on the ignition and starter. Keep the starter turned on until the engine is started, but not more than 5 s. The intervals between starter activations must be at least 10-15 s. If the engine does not start after three attempts, stop starting, investigate and repair the problem.
As soon as the engine starts, immediately release the ignition switch key. Warm up the engine. The coolant temperature of a warm engine must be at least 60 C.
Starting a cold engine at temperatures from 0 to -20 C
Before starting, carry out the following operations:
- Disable oil cooler.
- Close the radiator shutters and install the radiator cover.
- Turn the starter crankshaft engine for 3-5 revolutions.
- Pull out the carburetor choke control knob to failure (for this, you must first press the throttle control pedal).
Repeat the subsequent operations in accordance with the instructions "Starting the engine at 0 C and above".
When the engine warms up, gradually, as the crankshaft speed increases, drown the choke control knob all the way.
Starting a cold engine at low temperatures (below -20 C)
Start a cold engine at low temperatures after it has been preheated by the starting heater (the procedure for warming up is described in the "Starting heater" section). In the absence of a starting heater, warm up in any other way (steam, hot water or air, etc.) The further sequence of operations remains the same as in the case of starting a cold engine at an ambient temperature of up to -20 C.
Hot engine start
When starting a hot engine, do not cover air damper carburetor and do not press the throttle pedal sharply, as this will lead to an over-rich mixture and make it difficult to start the engine. If, nevertheless, the hot mixture turned out to be over-enriched, then it is necessary to blow the cylinders with air, for which smoothly press the carburetor throttle control pedal to failure and immediately turn the engine crankshaft several revolutions with the starter.
Engine stop
For gradual and uniform cooling of the engine, before turning off the ignition, let it run for 1-2 minutes at a low crankshaft speed. What is a pre-heater and is it needed?
The essence there is this: it is a symbiosis of a Zaporzhets heater (the same candle, a gasoline pump, etc.) and a water boiler. Disadvantages: it works well only in hot weather, and in winter gasoline evaporates poorly, the candle is constantly flooded, and if the battery is not new or hooked (which happens most often in the cold), then most likely you will put it down to zero, but you won’t let the heater go, let alone the engine (the candle consumes a very large current, and there is also a control coil, a fan, a control panel) ...
Unfortunately, I had to deal with these units in different versions and on different cars and I must note that if you do everything according to the instructions, the hell with two, it will work - you also need to know the specific setting of the unit. If you manage (in the cold) to disassemble everything, clean the candle, clean the pump contacts, charge the battery, study all the habits of this device and start it - lo and behold! He will howl and begin to eat gasoline, in half an hour (and this is 5 - 10 liters of gasoline), the engine temperature is 40 degrees. In general, this product is needed only at temperatures below minus 20 degrees, and if there is a need to start at such temperatures, then it is better to buy an ordinary blowtorch - it is a hundred times more reliable and convenient, and secondly, you can also warm up the crankcases of the bridges.
And to make it even easier and more convenient, you can make a casing of tin, where a lamp is inserted from above (it is very clearly visible on ZIL-157 cars - this is how heating is provided there). The only condition is that it is imperative to clean the engine of an oil coat of dirt, otherwise the oil will catch fire.
There is such a device, manufactured by the Tyumen ATE plant, mounted in the cooling system, there are mounting kits for almost any type of engine, including for UAZ. It has a built-in thermostat to prevent overheating, so you can leave it overnight. The oil in the engine also heats up quite well, just from the engine itself.
A wonderful thing that allows you to confidently start the engine in any frost. Rumors that he is able to tightly plant the battery are greatly exaggerated. The glow plug works for 30-40 seconds, and the fan motor will eat no more than 1-2 Ah in 15-25 minutes. And then everything is like in summer - easy and simple. Since antifreeze and oil are heated at the same time, comparisons with a blowtorch are not in favor of the latter.
The learning process is best done not in the coldest time of the year. As a rule, from 3-4 times it turns out for everyone - in the primer everything is pretty sensibly painted based on a soldier. Open flames, gasoline, oil, collected in one place, require the presence of a fire extinguisher and supervision of the operation of the boiler.
From advice on bringing to mind. The glow plug should not stand anyhow, but with the slot up. Replace the air duct hose from the fan to the boiler as soon as possible with a metal corrugated hose. The fan motor should be made two-speed, replacing its toggle switch with a three-position one and adding a nichrome spiral to the circuit similar to the stove fan motor - at the beginning of ignition, low speeds, then large ones. The last tip from the category of frills - a piece of wire rod, bent with a small poker to transfer the nozzle in the pallet from the transport position to the working one, will keep the sleeves of the clothes clean.
Well, now let's imagine an alternative - minus 30-40, lighting, towing, carrying batteries, heating candles and other experienced tips. And it's good if all this is in the city, near housing - but what if it's in a field, in a forest? Learn the materiel, men!
Autonomous pre-start (and cabin) heaters on the OKMA website Blowtorch heater
I saw the guys on Ladoga adapt this - a pipe on a tripod, bent 90 degrees up, a blowtorch is inserted into the horizontal part of the pipe, and the upper part can be used as a preheater, or put a pot and cook food. [Rhino3162]
A pipe with a diameter of ~ 20 cm (stainless steel type material) 1 m long or slightly longer. One end is welded and closer to the end on the pipe in the upper part of the pipe there is a rectangular cutout ~ 20x10cm with welded nozzle type sheets, soft metal bipod type from below (bends and you can adjust the height). You insert a blowtorch into the open part, and direct the "nozzles" where necessary. For example, on the engine crankcase.
Warm-up device from GAZ-69: (photo)
There is no such oil in current engines that it would freeze to death in Moscow. Let's start over: UAZ - war machine, and is designed to start in any weather, and if it does not start, then it is not UAZ or frost that is to blame. Secondly: there were frosts before, and people didn’t know about synthetics, but UAZs (GAZ-69) drove. Probably, you don’t need to look for panaceas in oil stickers, but you need to understand how to start a car in the cold.
You need to start with the battery - if it's dead, throw it away, but take your time with the oil - it's not the point, but if it's completely thickened, then take the handle and twist. For the good of the cause, pour in a glass of gasoline (the right drivers, when they arrive, be sure to pour a glass of gasoline into hot oil - the next day, an easy start is guaranteed, since the oil will be thinner than synthetics, and gasoline vapors will additionally enrich the mixture. No harm to the engine from this).
It is worse if the car has stood on the street for 2-3 days, and the thermometer shows -20 and below -25. The actions are the same, and it will take longer to turn the handle, but the problem will be that the mixture usually no longer ignites and settles on the candles, and in order to have fewer problems, be sure to put new candles before the start of winter, well, we consider de facto that the carb is cleaned , and the ignition is adjusted and set earlier (if this is not done, then we do it). Heating the mixture is possible with a blowtorch, but this must be done carefully, warming up the intake manifold. We also heat the oil in the crankcase with it.
If the thermometer indicates below -25 to -35, then the actions are the same, only now you still have to warm up the crankcases of the bridges, the box, the transfer case and the final drives.
It is worse when -40 - here nigrol can freeze (TAp-15v according to scientific) and then there will really be problems (TAD-17 is still alive at this temperature). If constant operation is expected at -40, then, of course, it is better to change the lubricants.
A can of ether is also very useful - it is disguised in the store as a Starting aid in cold weather, but you need to be able to use it. Usually one is enough for me for the Moscow winter. How to start an engine with a dead battery alone?
- Try to put only on the hills. To be honest, I probably don’t know any other way, especially since there is no crooked starter on my machine ... (winch)
- I had a stupid habit of leaving my headlights on. A couple of times on this large flew - cuckooed for N hours. After that, I accidentally ran into a funny device called Power Bank - an autonomous 6 Ah battery, you can recharge it both in the car through the cigarette lighter and from 220 V, a pair of special wires with crocodiles is included. Provides a twist of the engine of approximately Volgovskiy parameters for about five minutes. In the summer, I feed a 400-candle spotlight or a carrier with a fluorescent lamp from it (enough for several hours), and in the winter I carry it under the seat as a safety option.
General provisions:
- rotate the "manual starter" several times;
- if it's cold, then turn on the headlights for a few seconds. Yes, I'm not kidding. At the same time, a decent current will flow through the battery and it will warm up a little, and it will react favorably to the subsequent launch;
- if there warm room, then it’s good to warm up the battery there;
- in no case do not twist for a long time. It is better to wait half a minute and try again;
- the excitation winding of the generator takes a decent current. so you can turn it off at startup. After starting, you can turn it back on.
Sometimes it helps to close the contacts directly on the starter, that is, if the starter does not have enough power when the ignition is on, then there is a chance by closing +, the retractor terminal and the starter terminal itself, to turn the engine a little more. For this, an open-end wrench 17x19 is suitable.
A crooked starter, even in frost, allows you to start the engine normally (at minus 10, that’s for sure), and the physique has nothing to do with it, but if the ignition is set incorrectly, then of course you can get it in the forehead with the handle, so there’s only one advice if you start it, you need to be at 100 percent to be sure that everything is OK with the ignition.
Second. When starting, you don’t have to pretend to be a starter, i.e. you don’t need to turn the handle all the time at the same pace, but you need to turn it to compression and turn this moment sharply, and you need to do it sharply (choke and manual gas at maximum if the engine is cold, if hot then do not touch the suction at all, but manual at the maximum). In general, even V-eights (ZIL-130, GAZ-66) start up with curves, but the engine of the latest Lada or Muscovite is unlikely to start this way, since it has a high compression ratio.
For those who completely lack a starting handle or the ability to use it - it turns off front axle, one (or both, which is better) rear wheel is jacked up. We stick in fourth gear, wind a long rope around the wheel and pull. BUT, if locks are installed in the bridges, you need to jack both wheels unambiguously! [WITH. Vasilenko "stalker"]
Sequence of operations when starting the engine
The operation of internal combustion engines must be carried out in accordance with the rules for the technical operation of river transport, the instructions of the builders and the requirements of these Rules.
The ship must have instructions for each type of engine installed.
The servicers of these engines should be familiar with them.
During the preparation of the engine for start-up, in order to avoid breakdowns, accidents and accidents, the maintenance personnel must:
make sure that all parts of the engine and safety devices are in good condition; about all malfunctions, if they cannot be immediately eliminated, report to the mechanic (mechanic on duty) to inspect the engine and remove all foreign objects (wrenches, nuts, handbrake, etc.);
crank the engine with the barring or crank drive two full revolutions with the indicator cocks open and the fuel pumps off to check that there is no water in the cylinders. The presence of water in the cylinders can lead to engine failure;
open valves and valves on the delivery pipelines from the cooling pumps to the engine and outboard valves to prevent rupture of pump housings, valve boxes, cylinder jackets and pipelines;
during pumping of fuel pumps, make sure that fuel does not enter the engine cylinders in order to avoid dangerous explosions during start-up; fill fuel pipelines only with open control valves at the injectors;
the engine must be turned with a turning device in indicator cranes;
turn off turning devices on the engine in a timely manner to avoid breakdowns and accidents;
make sure the drive is disabled remote control from the wheelhouse from the engine control station in the engine room; make sure that there are no people behind the ship's stern and in the dangerous areas of the engine and shafting line;
warn the officer on duty and obtain permission to start the engine;
crank the engine with starting air with the indicator cocks open to check the normal operation of the starting devices;
later, when all the preparatory operations are completed, start the engine;
to start the diesel engine, it is necessary to close the indicator cocks and open the valve of the starting cylinder. Compressed air from the starting cylinder through the pipeline will enter the main starting valve;
move the control handle to the "Start" position, while the small valve of the main starting valve rises through the lever system. After the main starting valve is activated, the air will flow through the pipeline to the air distributor and to the starting valves on the cylinder covers;
hold the control handle in the "Start" position until the first flashes appear in the cylinder (no more than 5 - 10 s) and immediately after receiving the flashes, transfer to the "Work" position;
after starting the diesel engine, the valve on the starting cylinder should be closed and the oil pressure in the diesel engine and RRP (for marine diesel engines) should be checked. In the diesel engine after the filter, the pressure should be: 127 - 147 kPa (1.3 - 1.5 kgf / cm2), and in the RRP - not lower than 343 kPa (3.5 kgf / cm2). If a minute after starting the oil pressure remains below the specified limit, then the diesel engine must be stopped and the cause determined.
Engine warm-up
The most effective and rational way to facilitate start-up and maintain the durability of a diesel engine is its preheating.
To do this, hot water is used, which is fed through a special pipeline from the auxiliary boiler of the heating system, or the cooling system of another diesel engine, into the shirt space, and then drained overboard.
Hot water is pumped through the diesel with a backup pump.
To avoid cracks from uneven heating or jamming of moving parts, heating should be done slowly.
The oil is heated by special steam, water or electric heaters. If there are no special oil heaters on the ship, then it is periodically pumped through a diesel engine heated by hot water.
The shaft must not be turned until the diesel and oil are warmed up.
It is possible to load the diesel engine (increase the rotational speed) only if it is established that the diesel engine and all its systems are working normally, and the temperature of the water and oil is not lower than the minimum allowable.
Loads in a low-speed diesel engine of medium power must be taken gradually, within 15 - 20 minutes - warmed up and 25 - 30 minutes - cold.
At each load stage (from the smallest to the smallest, from the smallest to the average and from the average to the full), the diesel engine should work for 4-5 minutes in order to ensure uniform heating.
In order to avoid overloading, the rated speed of the diesel engine may be set only after the vessel has fully accelerated and the diesel engine has warmed up.
Reception by the diesel engine of overload is possible only when its thermal regime is established. The duration of continuous operation of the diesel engine at 110% load should not exceed 1 hour.
Warm up the diesel engine at low speeds up to an oil temperature of 298 K (25 °C) with the steering wheel in neutral position, corresponding to idling.
When the oil temperature in the diesel engine reaches 298K (25°C), and the fresh water temperature rises to 313K (40°C), make sure that sea water is supplied. Only after that is it allowed to turn the steering wheel by 45 - 50 ° to increase the diesel engine speed to 600 rpm, and for marine diesel engines to turn on the reverse gear.
When the oil temperature reaches 313K (40 °C) and the water temperature in a closed system is 333 K (60 °C) it is allowed to work at any load and speed, up to the maximum.
For marine diesel engines, switching from forward to reverse or vice versa must be done quickly, but without jerks, by turning the steering wheel in one direction or another. In this case, it is necessary to make a shutter speed of 2 - 3 s at the position of the steering wheel corresponding to idling.
Immediately after starting the diesel engine, charge the air starting cylinders to a pressure of 2940 kPa (30 kgf / cm 2) with an air compressor at the RRP for marine diesel engines or an autonomous compressor at diesel generators.
Preparing a diesel engine for operation and start-up.
Preparation of the diesel engine for operation should ensure that the diesel engine, service mechanisms, devices, systems and pipelines are brought to a condition that guarantees their reliable start-up and subsequent operation.
Preparation of the diesel engine for work after disassembly or repair should be carried out under the direct supervision of a shift foreman. In doing so, you need to make sure that:
All disassembled connections are assembled and securely fixed;
Necessary adjustments have been made; special attention should be paid to the installation of zero supply of high pressure fuel pumps;
All regular control and measuring devices are installed in place, connected to the controlled environment and have no damage;
Diesel systems are filled with working media (water, oil, fuel) of the appropriate quality;
Fuel, oil, water and air filters cleaned and in good order;
When pumping oil with open crankcase shields, lubricant flows to bearings and other lubrication points;
Protective covers, shields and casings are in place and securely fastened;
Pipelines for fuel, oil, water and air systems, as well as the working cavities of the diesel engine, heat exchangers and auxiliary mechanisms do not have gaps in the working media;
Particular attention should be paid to the possibility of leakage of cooling water through the seals of the cylinder bushings, as well as the possibility of fuel, oil and water getting into the working cylinders or into the diesel purge (suction) receiver;
The diesel injectors were checked for density and quality of fuel spray.
Oil system preparation .
It is necessary to check the oil level in waste tanks or in diesel crankcases, in oil collectors of boost turbochargers, oil servomotors, speed controller. Top up with oil if necessary. Replenish manual and wick lubricators, cap lubricators.
You should make sure that the devices for automatic replenishment and maintenance of the oil level in the tanks are in good working order.
Oil filters and oil coolers should be prepared for operation, valves on the pipelines should be set to the working position. Starting a diesel engine and its operation with faulty oil filters are prohibited. Remote controlled valves must be tested in operation.
If the oil temperature is below the recommended operating instructions, it must be heated. In the absence of special heating devices, the oil is heated by pumping it through the system during the diesel engine warm-up. The oil temperature during heating should not exceed 45°C.
It is necessary to prepare for operation and start up independent oil pumps of the diesel engine, turbochargers or pump the diesel engine with a hand pump. Check the operation of the means of automated (remote) control of the main and standby oil pumps, bleed air from the system. Bring the pressure in the lubrication systems to the working pressure while turning the diesel engine with a barring device.
Verify that all system gauges are reading and that there is flow in the sight glasses. Pumping with oil should be carried out during the entire time of diesel preparation (for manual pumping - before cranking and immediately before starting).
It is necessary to make sure that the emergency light signals disappear when the monitored parameters reach the operating values.
Preparation of the water cooling system.
It is necessary to prepare water coolers for operation, install valves and taps on pipelines in working position, and test remotely controlled valves in operation.
The water level in the expansion tank of the internal water circuit and in the tanks of autonomous injector cooling systems should be checked. Top up the systems with water if necessary.
It is necessary to prepare for work and start up autonomous or standby pumps for cooling water for cylinders and injectors. Check the operation of the means of automated (remote) control of the main and standby pumps. Bring the water pressure to the working level, release air from the system. The diesel should be pumped with water during the entire time of diesel preparation.
It is necessary to heat the cooling water with available means to a temperature of about 45°C at the inlet. The rate of heating should be as slow as possible. For slow-speed diesel engines, the warm-up rate should not exceed 10°C per hour, unless otherwise specified in the operating instructions.
To check the service water system, it is necessary to start the circulation pumps, check the system, including the operation of the water and oil temperature regulators. Stop the pumps and start them again - immediately before starting the diesel engine. Avoid prolonged pumping of oil and water coolers with water.
Make sure that the alarm lights disappear when the controlled parameters reach the operating values.
Training fuel system.
It is necessary to drain the sediment from the service fuel tanks, check the fuel level and, if necessary, replenish the tanks.
Must be ready to go fuel filters, viscosity regulator, fuel heaters.
It is necessary to set the valves on the fuel pipeline to the working position, to test the remotely controlled valves in operation. Prepare for operation and start up autonomous pumps for fuel priming and injector cooling. After raising the pressure to the working one, make sure that there is no air in the system. Check the operation of the means of automated (remote) control of the main and standby pumps.
If during the parking period work was carried out related to the dismantling and emptying of the fuel system, the replacement or disassembly of the high pressure fuel pumps, injectors or injector pipes, it is necessary to remove air from the high pressure system by pumping the pumps with the injector deaeration valves open or disconnecting the injector pipes and then connection.
If the diesel engine is structurally adapted to operate on high-viscosity fuel and has been stopped for a long time, it is necessary to ensure gradual heating of the fuel system (tanks, pipelines, high-pressure fuel pumps, injectors) by turning on heating devices and continuous circulation of the heated fuel. Before trial runs of the diesel engine, the temperature of the fuel must be brought to a value that provides the viscosity necessary for high-quality atomization (9-15 cSt). The fuel heating rate must not exceed 2°C per minute, and the fuel circulation time in the system must be at least 1 hour, unless otherwise indicated in the operating instructions.
When starting a diesel engine on low-viscosity fuel, it is necessary to prepare in advance for its transfer to high-viscosity fuel by turning on the heating of service and settling tanks. The maximum fuel temperature in tanks must be at least 10°C below the flash point of fuel vapors in a closed cup.
When replenishing service tanks, the fuel in front of the separator must be heated to a temperature not exceeding 90°C. Fuel heating up to more high temperature allowed only if there is a special regulator for accurate temperature maintenance.
Preparation, start-up, purge, pressurization, exhaust systems
It is necessary to check the air pressure in the starting cylinders, blow condensate and oil out of the cylinders. Prepare for operation and start the compressor, make sure it is working properly. Check the operation of automated (remote) control of compressors. Fill cylinders with air to nominal pressure.
Stop valves on the way from the cylinders to the stop valve of the diesel engine should be opened smoothly. It is necessary to blow out the starting pipeline with the diesel shut-off valve closed.
It is necessary to drain water, oil, fuel from the purge air receiver, intake and exhaust manifolds, air cavities of air coolers, gas and air cavities of boost turbochargers.
Engine start
Diesel start-up operations must be carried out in the sequence provided for in the operating instructions.
After starting, you should avoid prolonged operation of the diesel engine on Idling and the smallest load, as this leads to increased deposits of contaminants in the cylinders and flow parts of the diesel engine.
After starting the diesel engine, it is necessary to check the readings of all instrumentation, paying special attention to the pressure lubricating oil, coolants, fuels. Make sure there are no abnormal noises, knocks or vibrations.
If there is an automated start system for diesel generators, it is necessary to periodically monitor the state of the diesel engine in the "hot standby".
Service marine internal combustion engines must be carried out in strict accordance with the instructions of manufacturers and the Rules for the maintenance and care of marine diesel engines. Compliance with the requirements of factory instructions is also mandatory in cases where they do not comply with certain provisions of the Rules.
The main internal combustion engines require special attention, as they ensure the progress and safety of the vessel's navigation. Before starting the engine, it must be inspected and prepared for work. At the same time, all systems and mechanisms serving the internal combustion engine are being prepared for operation. Start, reverse and fuel supply control mechanisms must move without jamming and applying great efforts. The oil level in the crankcase of the speed controller must correspond to the mark on its indicator glass. It is necessary to supply power to the automation devices to check the operation of the alarm and protection system.
Training lubrication system begins with checking the oil level in the waste tanks and crankcase of the internal combustion engine, in the oil collectors of gas turbochargers, blowers and high pressure pumps.
When the air temperature in the engine room is plus 15 C and below, the oil must be preheated to a temperature of 25–45 C. Oil heating must be accompanied by pumping it through the engine with a simultaneous turning of the shaft with a barring device or manually.
When cooling the engine with outboard water, it is necessary to pump the systems, the engine and the gas turbocharger until the air is completely removed. With a closed cooling system, it is necessary to check the presence and level of fresh water on the water indicator glass on the expansion tank. If the temperature of the cooling fresh water is below plus 15 C, it is necessary to warm it up to a temperature of 25-45 C. For a more uniform warm-up of the engine, the fresh water pump must operate constantly. At the same time, the seawater system is being prepared for operation by opening the corresponding clinkets and valves and a trial run of the seawater pump. After making sure that the systems are functioning normally, the pump is stopped.
If the injectors installed on the engine are cooled by water, fuel or oil, it is necessary to set the shut-off valves in the system to the operating position and start the corresponding pump.
In preparation fuel system it is necessary to pump fuel into service tanks, drain sediment from them, check the cleanliness of the filters and remove air from the system by filling it with fuel. When using heavy or high-viscosity grades of fuel, it is necessary to warm up the pipelines of the fuel system, put into operation devices for heating, separating and filtering the fuel, and also switch the valves for the operation of the internal combustion engine during start-up and warm-up on fuel that does not require heating.
In preparation launch systems of the engine, compressed air cylinders are filled, they are blown to remove accumulated condensate and oil.
If the engine has a pressurization system, then it is necessary to prepare the charge air coolers for operation and pay attention to the cleanliness and fastening of the air intake filter. In addition, water and oil should be drained from the scavenge pump receiver, intake and exhaust manifolds, as well as from the gas and air cavities of the gas turbochargers.
Cranking and trial runs main internal combustion engines with air in power plants with direct transmission of power to the propeller shaft are made only after obtaining permission for this from the captain or officer in charge of the watch. When cranking and trial starts of internal combustion engines with disengaging clutches or diesel generators, such permission from the bridge is not necessary. The start of the main diesel generators is carried out with the permission of the chief engineer and with the knowledge of the electrician on duty or another person responsible for the operation of electrical equipment.
Just before starting, the internal combustion engine is turned with a barring device with indicator valves open, and there are no leaks of water, fuel, oil at the junctions of parts and systems. At the same time, the load on the electric motor of the turning device is monitored by an ammeter. Increasing the load in excess of the permissible or sharp fluctuations of the ammeter needle indicate a malfunction in the engine, which must be eliminated before starting.
Before starting the main engine with CPP, the control system of the controllable pitch propeller should be checked and prepared for operation. It is necessary to coordinate the propeller pitch indicators at all control stations and follow all the instructions of the factory operating instructions for the CPP.
After that, test runs and reverses of the internal combustion engine are carried out with compressed air without fuel supply with open indicator valves. In the absence of comments, the indicator cocks are closed and the engine is considered ready for starting on fuel.
Before the main engine is put into operation, it is necessary to check the correctness of the telegraph readings in the engine room and on the bridge and the operation of all means of communication between the engine room and the bridge.
After the preparation of the main ICE for work, the engineer on duty reports this to the chief engineer and to the command bridge.