What is the difference between UAZ military bridges and “civil. UAZ

A UAZ car is a full-fledged 4x4 SUV equipped with a transfer case with a mechanical connection of the front drive wheels and a downshift.

There is a statement that the transmission, or rather the wheel drive axles of a military-made vehicle, compare favorably with civilian ones, is it really possible to try to find out.

Design features

The design of the military bridge includes the use of additional final drives, which are installed for a more optimal distribution of torque to both wheels, for difficult road conditions. The presence of gearboxes, firstly, increases the ground clearance of the car by 8 cm, which gives additional advantages when passing through deep ruts, wetlands, forests and other difficult conditions.

Secondly, due to the changed ratio of gear ratios, UAZ equipped with military bridges has better engine thrust in low gears. When front-wheel drive is connected and the lever is shifted to a low gear position, such a unit can safely drive on almost any off-road, and even drag a trailer weighing up to 2 tons, and this is with an engine power of only 75 l / s, if you take a 469 UAZ up to 90 years of release.

UAZ vehicles produced specifically for the defense industry were developed more carefully, taking into account all the nuances related to the ratio of power and cross-country ability of the car, its readiness for operation in harsh climates, an extended temperature range, and work in the absence of road conditions. UAZ of some modifications was even developed to accompany tank columns. Therefore, special attention was paid to the transmission.

A vehicle with military-grade axles can operate in very low or high temperature ranges with almost no oil in the gearboxes. At the same time, only a uniform rumble coming from the bridges will be heard in the UAZ, while the transmission of a civilian car will already fail. But such operation is allowed only in extreme, forced cases; in all other cases, the military bridge, like all mechanisms, needs timely lubrication and must work as expected - in an oil bath.

The wheels of a vehicle with military-made axles are located below the central axis of the axle, due to final drives, this increases the cross-country ability in poor road conditions. The driveline of the military bridge is one centimeter shorter.

Comfort

UAZ, any modification, with civilian or military bridges, a car designed for people of a special category - military, hunters, fishermen, special services workers who do not need additional options for comfort, such as increased noise insulation or leather interior. But there is a statement that UAZ on military bridges has a higher noise level - the bridges "buzz". This statement is erroneous, a bridge of any type “makes noise” only in a faulty condition, or during improper operation - when the oil level in the crankcase is insufficient, the main pair or hubs are worn out, the gearbox or transfer mechanism is faulty. With proper maintenance and operation, even an expert cannot distinguish a civil-type bridge from a military one by sound.

Visual differences

The military bridge has a gear threaded connection on the left side in the direction of the vehicle, the civilian one is right in the center. The stocking of the military bridge is longer on the right side, shorter on the left. In civilian construction, the stockings are visually identical. The clearance of a military-style car is slightly different in height from a civilian one.

Interchangeability

Military-style bridges, like other transmission elements, can be installed on a civilian vehicle, and civilian bridges are suitable only after special modifications.

The cost of military bridges for a UAZ vehicle is on average 20 percent more expensive than for civilian ones. To order them, contact a specialized store.

Anyone who is at least a little fond of off-road, all-wheel drive, or just lives in the village, at least once (or even more than once), tried to understand how UAZ civilian bridges differ from military ones. Today our editors decided to answer this question for everyone, rahu details in the simplest language (well, or not quite).

It is not right to immediately proceed to the analysis, you need to understand the whole context and the relationship of future facts, and perhaps we will start with them.

Story

The very famous, eternal and legendary 469 UAZ appeared as the heir to the GAZ 69, the task of developing a new military off-road vehicle was set by the Ministry of Defense. Since there was enough operating experience for the eyes, the military clearly understood what they needed and what they absolutely did not need.

Essence: Design a car on a new base, lighter weight (to increase cross-country ability), dynamic, not inferior to the cross-country ability of the GAZ 66, so that the vehicle can move on march throws with columns of tanks, while being easily serviced in the field. And as a bonus, the production price should be low, but using modern technologies at that time.

Since agriculture also required a cross-country vehicle. Spoiler immediately - the UAZ came out in 1966, while the folk Niva in 1975, consider 10 years of difference.

So, in order to save engineering and production resources, it was decided to create two types of bridges, for military and civilian tasks. In everyday life, ordinary UAZ bridges were called simply and understandably - Kolkhoz, and military portals or gearboxes.

What is the difference between them?

In military bridges, between the hub and the axle shaft there is an onboard gearbox, in an additional crankcase.

Pros of "Warrior"

• Stock clearance is 6-8 cm more;
• The load is evenly distributed between the gearbox and the main pair, which not only increases off-road patency, but also has a good effect on reliability. Plus, the teeth of the main pair are larger;
• A larger one is issued at low engine speeds;
• The ability to take additional weight or a trailer, without much reduction in cross-country ability;
• Less picky about oil in gearboxes;
• Withstands lower/higher temperatures;
• It is better to eat in the hills.

Minuses

• Installation on a civilian UAZ will not be easy;
• You will have to adjust the pivots more often;
• The noise during movement will be very loud, the selection of oil will only partially solve the problem;
• They require maintenance, if you score, then at around 50,000 km. will start leaking oil.

Advantages of standard bridges

• The weight. They weigh less, which reduces fuel consumption. On average, 1.5-2 liters per 100 km, compared with warriors;
• Lightweight also affects ride comfort (if the word comfort applies to UAZs at all);
• Any repair is always cheaper and easier;
• Handling is better;
• Less noise at speed (although the advantage is so-so, noise isolation and UAZ are different things);
• Possibility to additionally install differential locks. Of course, you can also go to warriors, only there will be more problems, and the price tag is much higher;
• It is possible to install a spring suspension instead of a leaf spring;
• Parts are easier to find;
• Requires less oil.

Does it make sense to put them on?

UAZ is a specific car, for movement in the conditions of the city, it is not suitable from the word at all, another thing is fields and dirt, i.e. her native element. This is primarily an SUV, or a means of transportation for residents of villages and villages, where every autumn or after rain, all-wheel drive remains the last connection with civilization (we will omit the example of hunters and fishermen, because it is too obvious).

For civilian tasks, ordinary bridges are enough for the eyes, but for jeep lovers or farmers, extra cross-country ability will never hurt. Only there is a downside - the maximum speed will drop to 90 km. h., but who in their right mind would accelerate the UAZ in the field or on the highway like that?

Of course, you can put them if necessary, but it’s much easier and cheaper to immediately buy a UAZ on such bridges, the best option is from military conservation. It is inexpensive, and the condition will be better than that of analogues from AVITO and other automotive sites.

• As for spare parts, for military options it’s just not possible to go in and buy at the nearest store, the easiest way out is to go for disassembly;
• Gear ratios 5.38 vs 4.63 (guess which is better :));
• Breaking the axle shaft or CV joint, in warriors, is insanely difficult, but possible. This is a double-edged sword - reliability is many times higher, but if it breaks, you will have to fork out well for repairs;
• If the Warrior has broken down, it is sometimes cheaper to buy a new complete bridge than to repair the old one, and in time it will be noticeably faster, although this fact will not stop lovers of hanging out in the garage, constantly doing repairs;
• But to put civilian bridges instead of military ones just won’t work, improvements and experience will be required, although everything has already been painted a hundred times on the Internet, the same Drive2 will help.

general information

Front axle

SHRUS

Pivot knot

Couplings "ELMO", "STELM", "Rus", etc.

rear axle

• Construction and repair of the rear axle (Timken)

Wheel locks

Hubs

Bridge tuning. Finalization of UAZ bridges. Non-standard bridges on UAZ

Other bridge information

The military bridge differs from the usual one by the presence of final drives. Due to the presence of gearboxes, the bridge is raised relative to the wheel axis by 4 cm, which increases the vehicle's clearance (distance from the ground to the bottom of the bridge). Therefore, military bridges are called "U-shaped" (the bridge is like a crossbar of the letter, wheels are attached to the right and left of the letter). The torque does not fall entirely on the main pair (as on civilian bridges), but is distributed between the main pair and gearboxes. Due to this, the main pair is smaller in size (the crankcase of the military bridge "hangs" 4 cm less than the civilian one). The main pair has fewer teeth, and they are larger - this increases the reliability of military bridges compared to civilian ones. The gear ratio of military bridges is 5.38 (= 2.77 * 1.94 - gear ratios of the main and final drives, respectively) - more "high-torque", but less "high-speed" than conventional bridges.
The rear driveshaft for military axles is 1 cm shorter than for civilian ones! What is the gear ratio of civilian bridges?

Until July 1989, the main pair with a gear ratio of 5.125 (41 teeth) was installed in civilian bridges, now with a gear ratio of 4.625 (37 teeth), i.e., more "fast", but less "powerful". You can find both in stores. You will most likely have to replace the "new" with the "old" main pair when installing very large wheels. It is recommended to replace the main pairs only as a complete set (in the front and rear axles), otherwise the front axle will have to be switched on exclusively in mud, snow, sand, etc., so as not to damage the transfer case and damage the rubber.

How to determine the gear ratio?

The rear Barsovsky bridge differs from the ordinary military one only in two details:
stockings - taken from the Kolkhoen bridge;
axle shaft - original spare part. Which is better - conventional or geared axles - and why?

For the first time this question arose when cars with gear axles appeared on the free market. Disputes "which bridges are better" arise in the conference regularly. All frequently used arguments are summarized here.
Advantages of military bridges over civilian ones:
- clearance 30 cm (against 22 cm for civilian bridges); according to the latest measurements, a difference of 8 cm is observed only when Y-192 rubber is used on military bridges. With identical wheels the difference is only 6 cm.
- more "torque" (torque) - for transporting heavy loads, towing, driving at low speeds in the mud;
- more reliable due to the larger size of the teeth of the main pair;
- more reliable due to the uniform distribution of the load between the main and final drives;
- were developed, among other things, for "escorting a tank column" and (unlike civilians! - see from the magazine "Behind the Wheel") approved by the USSR Ministry of Defense.

Advantages of civilian bridges over military ones:
- less weight (more comfortable ride and (physically) easier to repair);
- fewer parts - easier and cheaper repairs;
- installation of mass-produced is possible;
- it is possible to install a spring suspension (see also note);
- at the same speed, the engine is less "untwisted" due to the lower gear ratio;
- less noisy (since the final drives of military bridges are spur gears, and they make more noise);
- more accessible and cheaper app. parts;
- the consumption of gasoline, other things being equal, is less;
- fewer lubrication points - easier maintenance and less oil needed.

Note for long military bridges:
- only a spring suspension is installed on them (see comparison of spring and spring suspensions);
- stability improves;
- increased permeability;
- spare parts are not available.

Guys, I only agree with you 50%. These 8 cm do not give such a big advantage. It all depends on the gasket between the steering wheel and the seat! Example. Yesterday we went fishing with 2 UAZs. One is 31514-10 + , the other is 31514-031 + 8 cm of ground clearance (military). It was necessary to drive a segment of the road on virgin soil for about 150 meters. We walked in two different tracks purely to satisfy our own curiosity - what is still better - diffs or 8 cm of clearance. It turned out that the diffs are cooler!!! I pulled him out of the snow captivity twice! The road (if I may say so) is dense, spring snow. We didn’t measure the depth (we didn’t go for this), but it has already sunk! So alas - 8 cm give a little! [Valera]

Differences (except for a smaller landing on a civilian) have not yet felt. But I think that the warriors are not fools - since they put up such bridges, they are better when driving off-road. But for driving on the highway at high speeds, simple ones should be better, because. warriors don’t drive fast and their bridges are adapted specifically for slow driving ... The difference is noticed in critical situations, for example, two weeks ago, at the entrance to the dacha, the road consisted of wet sticky snow - the “goat” sat down with his whole belly, but this is with civilians bridges. I figured that he lacked those ... centimeters ... which make the military above the ordinary. Last winter, on the old "goat" with military bridges, I did not even think about the road. And there are many such examples - what is there to feel - the patency of a car that ... higher is naturally better ...

civil bridges. Recently I went into the forest and had to wade through such a rut that the car just lay on it with bridges. She rode, leaving behind two furrows from the gearboxes. Clinging, apparently, only the edges of the wheels. I think that with military bridges it will be much easier. At least if I have to change bridges, I will change to military ones. True, the military has one big minus - the design. Complex mechanics made by Soviet hands are UNRELIABLE.

Military bridges... really are designed for difficult conditions, but the consumption is higher, and noisier and more difficult. However, there is a pattern - all police UAZ vehicles are equipped only with civilian bridges (consumption and dynamics are important on asphalt, only I-245 are completed), in the Moscow Region only military bridges (only I-192 tires).
The operation of UAZ in the Moscow Region is a horror without beginning or end. As a rule, at 50 thousand, the transmission of the final drives begins to flow. There are no more problems, after 100 thousand, the car, as a rule, is sold to the national economy and ... they ride it for another 10 years, not really worrying about what is happening with the bridges.

If you sit on bridges, then blocking is unlikely to help (unless you dig deeper). There is a sense from them, of course, but not in these situations. By the way, according to my observations (the last 4 years of active hunting in winter, spring and autumn), UAZs with collective farm bridges, as a rule, lose the ability to move precisely because of landing on bridges. I remember only one case when blocking could really help - moving through a large frozen puddle, the UAZ broke the ice and fell through with its right wheels (did not sit on the bridges). As a result: the left wheels "soap" on the ice, and the right ones, reaching the solid ground at the bottom of the puddle, stand motionless. Well, I still took a UAZ with military bridges. In hunting grounds, rarely anyone travels on virgin lands (almost never). Basically, people travel along "roads" - sort of clearings in the forest, or rolled "roads" through the fields. In such conditions, deep tractor RUTS become the main obstacle, especially in lowlands, swamps and streams, or fallen trees, or stumps, etc. That is, the characteristics of "rowing" with all wheels at the same time become less important than ground clearance. In practical terms, if I have one (or two along the side / diagonal) wheels slipping, then it will be easier for me to put something under them (branches, branches, etc.) than to hang out an UAZ sitting on bridges and slipping with all four blocked wheels.

A year ago, I replaced civilian bridges with military ones, conclusions:
1. There is no noticeable difference in noise between military and civilian bridges.
2. With a properly adjusted machine, fuel consumption should not increase by more than 1-1.5 liters (for military).
3. About twisting the engine. At least half of the UAZ owners on collective farm bridges have a GP of 5.125. On the military - 5.38. In total, we get a torsion of less than 5%! At 3000 rpm it's only 150 rpm. Funny! But at the same time, as if laid down by the state, the Ya-192 is 3% larger than 245 or 357 in diameter. That is, in the "regular" version, the difference in torsion is less than 2%! (although the "regular" options are not so often seen in the city (I-192)).

About patency. It is practically impossible to pull off a well-fitting UAZ on both gearboxes of collective farm bridges with another UAZ of the same type (even if the one sitting on Goodrich has been passed repeatedly). On military bridges, the crankcase is made in the shape of a ski, so the car can move on them, leaving a furrow from the crankcase up to 3 cm deep.

Well, in conclusion - military bridges are much more reliable than collective farm ones. And the design is more thoughtful, and the production is a couple of percent better. [Radomyrich]

When installing locks in civilian axles and wheels>= 33 ", you often have to change the axle shafts, cv joints or main pairs. These locks are designed not for UAZ, but for armored personnel carriers ... In addition, this lock is not intended for use as an interwheel differential and the function of the latter to put it mildly, it does not perform very well, which can lead to sad consequences in terms of [un]controllability.Military bridges dramatically improve the situation with breaking, but there are no blockages for them (but there is more clearance).Nevertheless, the entire progressive jeeper community is gradually switching to military bridges, including those who some time ago were staunch supporters of blocking.[_sergey_]

I've had the operation of repressing bridges the other day. Now I have gear axles with locks. The wheels are huge and the gears just unloaded the load. I did this by pressing stockings out of military and civil bridges and, accordingly, inserting military stockings into civilian ones. [Glory] What is needed to replace "civilian" bridges with "military" ones?

1. Plates for rear axle ladders.
2. For the front bridges, the lower cups for the stepladders are the same. But it needs to be cleaned well. There is a recess that is not used in civilian bridges and clogged with dirt, but it works in the military.
3. Step-ladders gr.and military. bridges are the same

Report on the replacement of gr.bridges with military ones:

Firstly, I want to immediately ask the person who wrote that you only need to shorten the rear cardan by 10 mm and find the plates for the rear axle ladders to confess, and in this case I will not beat him hard !!!
There was plenty of hemorrhoids.

1. the front brake pipes on the military are their original ones, they come with a tee.
2. plates for ladders are not on sale as a class. I had to weld square bars to my relatives.
3. After installing the ladders on the springs, it turned out that they were too long, because. the spring has only seven leaves. From a suitable tube, I had to make 20 mm bushings for nuts, otherwise there is not enough thread.
4. Cut brake hoses completely refuse to unscrew from the tubes, all sorts of fluids did not help. When the connection is heated with a gas burner, I miraculously dodge the cutting of the hose, which flew out of the flare like a bullet. Lucky! :-)))
5. Because bridges were purchased without brakes, i.e. junk cylinders, drums were lying in a bag and something was even used, but I had to collect everything from scratch. The drums are machined, the cylinders are polished and anthers are applied to the sealant, the pads are glued from the Volga - again labor costs and superfluous towers.
6. All springs were forged and all bushings replaced.
7. Yes, and the speedometer gear should be changed - the hands did not reach.
8. In the kit, they gave a transverse link - I installed it, it is straight, without bending under the civil differential.

Here is the work done.
P / S If I knew that the flow of everything would have to be done, I would have thought ten times. And now it's too late. It is necessary to sell gr / bridges, at least return the money spent.

Total what it cost me (July 2002):
4500 rubles bridges
2000 main interior spare parts
1000 to a locksmith for overhauling final drives
1000 - if not more for small things.
Total: 8500 rubles and two weeks of Kamasutra in the evenings and weekends.
It remains to collect some snot.
I rolled a little, it seems that nothing is buzzing, but I have not yet been finally convinced of this, but I want to calm my soul - they did not touch the differentials and therefore it is alarming. The fact that traction was added and the sprung mass also became noticeable immediately! For the rest, let's see What are locking differentials?

In the "original" UAZ has non-blocking interwheel differentials in the rear and front axles (both civilian and military). Therefore, in turns, as expected, the wheels on one side (inner relative to the center of the turn) spin slower than the wheels on the other side (outer). In the limiting case, if one of the wheels of the bridge does not experience any resistance (for example, it is jacked up or spinning in liquid mud), then the other wheel is stationary. This is the disadvantage of off-road differentials - if, for example, the car got into the mud on the right side, no matter how the right wheels knead the mud, the left wheels remain motionless and the car stops. To avoid this, cross-axle differentials are made lockable (rigidly or partially). Hard blocking can be forced(lockers) or automatic(self-locking, cam differentials).
Lokers are controlled, as a rule, by pneumatics. Lockers work simply - there is a cylinder with a fork that moves such crowned crap, which actually blocks.
The automatic locking of the cam differential occurs when the halves of the differential housing are rotated relative to each other (by one turn?), i.e., when one of the wheels slips. Such a differential is blocked both when turning forward and backward, and automatically unlocks when leveling (up to a certain value?) Wheel speeds. For machine control features with automatic interlocks, see .
Partially blocked are limited slip differentials (LSD), they have a number of discs inside (like a clutch), special oil is poured in, which helps the discs to slow down ... but there is nothing solid there.

And according to the actual principle of operation ... With such self-blocks, at least 60% goes to the lagging wheel in any situation. On some modes - up to 70-75 (maximum). But the self-block does not care what resistance it overcomes (that is, what caused this resistance to spinning the wheels). It is able to cover the difference of moments up to 70-30=40% of the tractive effort at any combination of resistances (friction in the contact patch of the tire with the road, braking with a service brake or the moment of inertia of a spinning wheel). Therefore, if this very difference in the moments of resistance is not enough to turn the standing wheel (that is, it exceeds these same 40%) ... gently press the brake. At first, the moment on the standing wheel will simply increase, then it will start to rotate (if the engine has enough power), and then, if the difference becomes less than 60-40 \u003d 20%, the trim will generally force both wheels to slip synchronously, like a hard-locked one (it's just " bite" with such a big common moment). That is, there is a "100% blocking" (however, at what cost...). Or you can just rev sharply - the same role will be played by the moment of inertia of the suspended wheel. And people are still wondering why, when driving in a turn on soft ground, a sharp gas supply can cause a "drastic change in the behavior of a car" with cam differentials (when the self-block simply wedges). You need to be careful with these devices :)) ...

See the principle of operation of the cam differential on the UAZAVTOTEKHOBSLUZHIVA website

From a letter from Technoservice:

Differentials, which will be discussed below, are installed only in the so-called. "civilian" bridges. This is due to the design features. At the moment, we (Technoservice) have two types of limited slip differentials: cam and with cones. They differ in how they work. The first one works quite hard, sometimes leading to temporary blocking of the wheels. The work of the second is much softer, with a smooth increase in torque on the lagging wheel from 0 to 0.65max.
The first differential can only be installed in the rear axle, because. wheel locks are not allowed on the front steering axle.
The second differential can be put in the front axle. (Grigory Serjantsov) What cross-axle differentials can be installed on UAZ? Are there many changes?

Yesterday I received very incomplete information from the city of Gorky (Nizhny Novgorod) that in nature there are still self-locking differentials on army bridges !!! The fact is that this summer I asked my friend's father-in-law (he lives in Gorky) to look for information about self-locking differentials specifically for military bridges. And yesterday they told me that he did find a man who has such differentials on army bridges! In short, I think it's worth stepping up the search! Happy hunting everyone!!!

There are blockings on military bridges! But this is home-made (although the drawings can be obtained ... theoretically - because they may not be given, but for the money, I think they will put the locks themselves. The principle is the same as from the BTR-60. In general, if you really need and there is money (I didn’t ask, but probably an order of magnitude more than for armored personnel carriers ... [Kolka]

Interlocks in military bridges - automatic machines - a bridge with an installation of 6 - 7 t. (early August 2000), rigid pneumatics with control from the dashboard 8 - 9 t. Automatic machines are also 100% blocking - but they are generally turned off when cornering. Machine guns for military bridges - the bridge is permanently hard blocked. In a turn, when overtaking a wheel, the pin snaps out and the axle becomes completely free until the wheel lags. Pin back - diagonal away. The old differentials are being redone in the case of an automatic. The entire bridge is being redone in the case of an airlock. Locks "under license" from special equipment of the USSR. Friend's license. He will also bet. [Chief] Feedback on locks in gear axles

Since, until the last moment, I did not find any reviews on the network about the real use of limited-slip differentials for gear axles, except for an article in a 4x4 magazine, I decided to spend some time and describe my own feelings from their operation. So, unlike the Moscow-made 4x4 self-blocks described in the magazine, for which the manufacturer, who was obviously not in himself, asked for $ 600 apiece (after which the desire to contact his products disappeared - let him heal his head), I purchased Nizhny Novgorod products, which have absolutely the same principle of operation as the Moscow ones, but they are more affordable (for example, they can be bought in an off-shop for $ 370). I put self-blocks on both bridges and went to test them at the 3rd stage of the Partizan trophy. The complexity of the tracks was very high (for those who are interested, pictures from the track -), and the conclusions from the use turned out to be something like this:

1. Self-blocks do not work at all with heavy diagonal hanging. That is, in reality, there was not a single time when the rotation of one wheel on the bridge was visually visible when the car was stationary. Moreover, the use of 100% blocking would most likely help the car move off. "Turn up the gas", as described in the example by the 4x4 magazine, it was not possible to solve this situation: I rode boggers and this advice would have buried me deep and for a long time ;-)) It is not clear whether this fact should be taken into account, but 100% blockages no one promised, the manufacturer promises only 70%, although I would doubt this figure (by 70% they will work only with a very strong difference in rotation speeds. If you do not allow strong wheel slip, then they almost do not work or work very little - that is, without a visible effect).
2. Turning at the maximum inverted steering wheel has noticeably deteriorated. The turning radius has doubled. It was tested on soft ground in a dense forest ;-)) To pass the turn with a minimum radius, I had to slow down. As it turned out, this is a panacea for this glitch: at low speed, the radius is the same.
3. The patency in a deep rut has significantly improved (this plus is also noted by the 4x4 magazine). The difference is huge, those places in the rut in which we sat on the bridges a month ago were now easy to pass, and if we sat on the bridges (1-2 times all the time), then in that place the rut was very gouged and the last time I would not even poke my head into this place, but would go round in the forest.
4. There is no sound of operation (maybe I didn’t hear it, 2 hours after the start, my muffler was torn off ;-)))). So it’s not at all clear whether it was a regular diff or a self-locking one =)))

In short, the conclusions from here are as follows: we go further on self-blocks, but only if it suddenly turns out that they quickly crumble. So far, a two-day operation in super heavy duty has not revealed a lack of strength. There is no tangible superiority of self-blocks on conventional diffs and most likely will not be. Therefore, it is naive to count on a serious increase in cross-country ability ;-))) How will the further experience be, I will definitely share it. =)) [Alexander Filatkin ( [email protected])]

Self-blocks, for which the manufacturer requested $ 600, are, firstly, with installation, and secondly, they differ in that they have been finalized specifically for UAZ. As for the ones you use, these are actually Quifs from Moskvich, which, with the same high quality, have a slightly lower blocking coefficient (a different angle of the screw). The manufacturer is not a factory, but rather a small enterprise, and could reduce prices if there were a sufficiently large number of sales (in their words).
You can "add gas" or you can not add - just turn on a higher gear - the difference in the angular speeds of rotation of the axle shafts will increase, respectively, a greater moment will be transferred to the frozen wheel. Or you can just “touch” the brake pedal a little - with properly adjusted brakes, the effect will be the same, although for a UAZ with drums this is hardly realistically achievable))
So "self-blocks" - "self-blocks" are different, and you should not immediately generalize. I personally tested them, and I have just such ones in my jeep. So far I'm satisfied. Another thing is that I personally would prefer Detroit Locker, which just works a hell of a lot better than LSD self-blocks, and than all sorts of "forced drugs". [Ivan Evdokimov (MONSTR4X4), author of the article "Military Blocked"].

BTR-60s are no longer produced, but nevertheless blockages are made in the city of Arzamas, Nizhny Novgorod region, in Kurgan?
! ... The differential search circle narrows to V/Ch fences. Whether warrant officers responsible for the safety of materiel accept credit cards, traveler's checks or postal orders, I do not know, but it is not in human habits to refuse cash.
! Self-locking differentials (from the BTR-60) are often found in the village of Vyezdnoye (the southern exit from Arzamas) in the GAZ-UAZ store ... They only import a few pieces. How to find a store? We leave Arzamas (to the south), cross the railway and after 70 meters on the left (opposite the church) there will be a store (the same one). Opening hours: 8-17, Saturday 8-14, Sunday - day off. There is no phone in the store. Owner's phone number (8-247) 9-08-86 (call in the evening, ask Valera). [MISHA from Nizhny]
! Cross-wheel locks from armored personnel carriers are available. Ready for installation on a UAZ car. [email protected]. Tell us how to install self-locking differentials from the BTR-60 in civilian axles.

Everything is done very simply! You remove the bridge from the car, after draining the oil and unscrewing the brake hoses. Pull out the axles. Then the bridge must be cut in half. To get to the differential box, you pull out the old differential, remove the bearings and the gear of the main pair from it (collect all the gaskets and bolts together - they will still be useful to you). In the new diff, you need to drill holes from 10 mm to 12 mm (if they are not drilled). After these operations, you can start assembling - put the gear in place (fortunately, nothing else is required for this), adjust the bearings of the differential (the process of adjusting the bearings of the differential box is described in detail in the book) and put everything back in its original place! ALL!!! The front axle is installed in the same sequence! Good luck with blocking! [Valera]

I think everyone has already guessed that differentials are put in the rear axle much easier :), so I started with it:
1) the cardan is unscrewed from the bridge;
2) the oil is drained (although you still won’t drain it anyway :));
3) unscrew the brake hoses, and squeeze the flexible so that it does not flow;
4) the ladders are unscrewed, but not completely, so that the bridge still holds a little;
5) shock absorbers are unscrewed;
6) wheels are removed;
7) it is hung out behind the UAZ frame and the ladders are unscrewed to the end - the bridge is removed;
8) unscrew and remove the axle shafts;
9) the bridge splits in half. Attention: it is better not to tear the gasket of the axle reducer !!! I tore mine, but it doesn't exist in stores, even in the South Port! Although you can cut it out of thick paper, as I did. By the way, half shaft gaskets are also not a frequent occurrence ... Then you got to the differential and look impatiently at the main pair ... It turns out that there are two types (in addition to the number of teeth) - sometimes with 10 mm holes, and sometimes with 12 mm threaded holes, so if you have a thread in the main pair - this is worse, because you have to sweat a little and drill 12 mm holes in the new diff (and for this you need to have a good drill for metal 12 mm, and preferably a few pieces and preferably self-sharpening, if there are such ). Everything was OK in my rear axle, but I had to drill in the front axle, so everything rested in the absence of such a drill: (and it turned out to be painfully hard metal ...);
10) then you need to suffer with the bearings: remove both (7510), for this you just need a puller !!! We shot 40 minutes without it, 13 seconds with it :), but you need to shoot oh so many times (when adjusting);
11) further process from the book: dress ch. a pair, and you do not fill the bearings to the end, but leave a gap of 3-3.5 mm, assemble the bridge together with the gasket, tighten the bolts of the gearbox, disassemble again and see what you have left of the gap (for one and the other bearing) add to this figure 0.1 divide the resulting number in half and insert the rings in front of the bearings into such a thickness. Then just collect everything to the end!
This, only briefly, Valera told, but they wrote about the front axle: “you do everything the same” ... The first difficulty: unscrew the brake hoses, for some reason they are more stubborn in front and quickly strive to break (not only on my UAZ ). The second difficulty is my lack of familiarity with the UAZ :)) I tried to unscrew the axle shafts in the same way as in the back, but then I realized that not everything is so simple and this is the front axle ... In general, I immediately cut the bridge in half (previously removing :) and unscrewing the tie rods in two places) and then did everything as with the rear, only together with the axle shafts ...
As a result, put everything in its place, pump the brakes, pour oil into the bridges and into the DIRT!!! :-)) A question for Valera and the others: how wrong was I when I didn’t pull out anything in the front axle (half shafts), but adjusted the bearings just like that? .. [Kolka]

Finished installing a self-locking difa in the rear axle. Until I forgot:

1. Stepladders otbolgaril immediately. To unscrew the rusted brake pipes, you need to heat them with a blowtorch or something else and cool them several times, after which they turn away to the hot one. Having broken one tube, I flared it again, which was not so difficult.
2. Gaskets between the halves of the axle housing are sold without problems, so the old one can be torn.
3. It is better to drill holes at 12 in the differential with a special multi-start tool - a countersink, then drill it with a drill to 12.1-12.2 if the holes do not match. If you immediately drill with a drill, then because of its beating, an uneven entry is obtained, and the hole moves to the side. Because I didn’t find a countersink, then I made a call (to a depth of about 2 mm) with a 12 reamer, but sharpened the ends like a drill. It is impossible to go deeper. the reamer cuts sideways and the hole slides to the side again. Then I drilled with a regular drill by 12. As a result, holes were obtained that exactly matched the threads in the driven gear (I sharpened a couple with a file to the side). You can achieve a more accurate match of the holes by turning the gear on the differential.
4. The old bolts for fastening the differential to the gear are short, because diff is thicker. After a long search, the bolts of the GAZ-53 cardan with the letter X were selected. They are longer and with a head of 17. The uncut part of the thread just corresponds to the thickness of the differential, so that after screwing the bolts to the end, there remains somewhere 1 mm of thread to the driven gear. The bolts must be shortened with a grinder, because if they stick out on the other side of the gear, they will touch the support socket of the rear bearing of the drive gear. Additionally planted bolts on threaded glue.
5. Pay attention to the differential bearings. Almost always, shells appear on the rollers - the bearing needs to be replaced. Because of them, the bridge howls at speed. On the advice of the confa, the outer ring of the bearing was knocked out by welding a strip of iron across it and tapping the axle shaft on the outside. It turned out very easy. Cook gently with a dvoechka so as not to overheat the cast-iron nest.
6. It is better to buy a good bearing puller for 300-500 rubles than to buy disposable Zhiguli for 100-200. I hardly had enough of it.
7. Under the halves of the bridge, it is better to make special stands. Very convenient for multiple assembly - disassembly. The adjustment of the bearing tension itself did not cause problems. Gap - the required thickness of the shims can be measured with ordinary feeler gauges.
8. Nuts tightening halves of the bridge can be replaced with nuts for fastening the axis of the rocker arms. These break down at once, and those are higher.
9. Effort of rotation of differential - 5 kg on a flange. Effort of a leading gear wheel - 1.5 kg. Total - 6.5 kg. Decreased a lot after pouring oil and a short run. The crankcase gets a little warm.
10. In s.b. differential is better to pour a special oil for limited slip differentials with an LS additive. Like Castrol LS90 or BP Limslip 90. I didn’t find such a thing in Yaroslavl, then I filled it with a simple BP 80w90, but if I find it, I’ll replace it.
11. Tighten wheel bearings frequently. If this is not done, then the inner rings of the bearings begin to rotate on the trunnion and the trunnion wears out.

In the front, because 1) it is connected only when the rattles are screwed in - the resource of the differential, axle shafts, etc. increases. 500 km The last just cut off ...);
2) the load on it is greater (on a medium-loaded machine), therefore, it has more grip on the ground.

I only have it on the front axle because: 1 The resource of these diffs is very limited 2 Such a diff, like the front axle, is only needed on off-road 3 Does not interfere with normal movement on a normal road 4 The front wheels are controlled and, in combination with blocking, the result is tangible. [Pyatak]

On my LandRover 110, I have ARB Loker in both axles with forced pneumatic engagement from el. compressor. So: they turn on each with their own button, but without turning on the rear one first, do not turn on the front one. This is the standard scheme. The idea of ​​​​the imperialists regarding the installation of locks first in the rear, and then in the front, in my opinion, is that they are turned on in difficult conditions, and it seems to them that the rear axle shafts (especially reinforced) will be in the mud and on tend to live longer. I don’t know how the axle shafts differ in UAZ, but in Def the rear one is much more powerful than the front one ... Also, if there are self-locking differentials in front, it can be difficult to drive on the road and with different wheel diameters - everything happens in the mud.

From a letter from Technoservice At the moment, we have two types of limited slip differentials: cam and cone. They differ in how they work. The first one works quite hard, sometimes leading to temporary blocking of the wheels. The work of the second is much softer, with a smooth increase in torque on the lagging wheel from 0 to 0.65max. The first differential can only be installed in the rear axle, because. wheel locks are not allowed on the front steering axle. The second differential can be put in the front axle. [sent by Grigory Serjantov] How does a car with self-locking differential behave on the road?

On dry or wet pavement, I did not feel the difference.
In winter, the car becomes completely different (than with simple ones), sharper or something, and strives to go along a large radius when cornering.
More resistant to drifts. Rather not, perhaps better controlled in a skid.
All of the above is my personal observation on a particular machine with 2 locks. Please tell me, is it possible to put military bridges from UAZ on GAZ-69 without significant alterations?

Can! We'll have to leave the native bipod of the steering column and the thrust from it to the right front wheel. If the shock absorbers are native (lever), then there will be no problems, but if you installed telescopic shock absorbers, you need to look in place.
About GAZ-69, see also in the section "Lyrics" and on this site. And what are "ELMO", "STELM" couplings, etc.? Are they needed?

Opinions AGAINST:

The disadvantage is poor protection against the ingress of dirt, sand, etc. - when clogged, you have to switch with pliers. May slip when moving backwards.
- It should be noted that in order for them to work normally, you need to drive about 10 meters. And they may no longer exist. Practice has shown that in this case it is enough to turn the front cardan back and forth, (but this is for those who want to dive, but you can do it this way, first turn on the back, a little, just a little, release the clutch, and then the third or fourth and also let go a little, it should be approximately as if you twisted the cardan with your hand without much effort, after that you can safely storm the govenets!
- It's better to turn native hub couplings long and tediously with a key than to sort out ELMO in the mud. [Pyatak]
- I threw out two sets of these couplings. I drive UAZ only in the mud, but as Ladoga showed, these clutches do not withstand mechanically. That year, the mounting bolts were sheared off in an ordinary swamp. This year, in the mud, when the wheels slipped, it tore all of it from the inside. If you operate the UAZ around the city and rarely, on weekends or holidays in the mud, then in my opinion regular ones are better. Turning the key twice a week is not scary. But if it’s always dirt, then asphalt and dirt, it’s not special, then duralumin switches are more convenient, but still unreliable.
- If the car is stuck and the rear wheels are slipping, then if you turn on the Elma, and then immediately the front axle, then when the Elma is slipping, they will turn on and you will hear "tr-r-r-r" the axle shaft cuts the splines on the "Elma" and kirdyk, au tractor ! As an option, you can hang the wheel and twist it with your hands so that it snaps into place. Then the same on the other side. True, it is inconvenient and not always possible ... But it will come to the extreme If the car is generally paralyzed, then sometimes it is generally problematic to connect the Elma, since for their reliable inclusion it is still necessary to ride a little (2-3 m) without including the front axle. This is especially true in winter and in the presence of a thick lubricant in Elmah, which is not recommended to be stuffed. But whatever one may say, there is no alternative, since you have to turn it on / off very often and the “regular” ratchet couplings, no matter how reliable they are, are still inconvenient. None of the above applies to sports cars, where they spend most of their lives in poop.. [Screeching]

Opinions FOR:

I've had it since birth, no problems. And there are similar ones, but imported ones. They look neater ... Put, in general. [Victor]
- Reliability of couplings. There were no issues with 33 wheels. After winter operation (did not turn it off), they sour to death. Dismantled, cleaned, poured liquid lubricant and went to Ladoga. Everything worked fine. But Deklomp broke off the clutch. About stone. [OlegM]
- I have already covered 19000 km. and I don't bother with them. They say that they pop up - I have not encountered this. They turn on normally, if you don’t swell lithol in them. And you can make them hermetic with your own hands. It's better for me than to oil the key every time. But if you don’t get out of the mud, then naturally the old ones are simpler and more reliable.

It is necessary to lubricate correctly:
There is no need to fill the clutch with lithol "for the most indulgent" nizya, and there is no need, since there are no (well, that's all) rubbing elements, I went through two types of clutches (outwardly different - the same inside) - and so there are no rubbing surfaces.
My advice is this:
DO NOT score, otherwise they will not turn on.
Lubricate with a thin layer of grease, to the level of "greasy" parts.
DO NOT lubricate with lithol - lithol is destroyed by moisture and becomes glue / putty / abrasive - anything but a lubricant.
Can be lubricated with fiol or even graphite grease.
Buy a waterproof lubricant if you have the money.

To protect against salt from above, you can use scraps of plastic cocoa cans with screw-on lids. The diameter is ideal for our products, as well as from Germany and Poland. All kinds of Nestle are not good for us: either too narrowly, or vice versa.

You can hang protective caps from one and a half liter plastic bottles on top and turn the clutch switch back and forth at least once every 2 weeks.

By the way, the covers for the couplings come out well from the anthers of the steering from the bull, you just need to seal the hole with an elastic band, although if you wade through the bushes, you can lose it, it will rip off any ... And smear the top of the coupling well with ShRB. protects well from water.

First, the switch seal. I had a regular plastic oil seal (essno with a small interference). It is necessary to achieve a tight fit of the cuff along the inner diameter (for example, using electrical tape or fum tape to check how the cuff enters the body - it should be tight, but rotate by hand. Next, we collect all the insides, not forgetting to put the lock nut on the switch screw (I have it and the clutch "disassembled"). I generally used not a lubricant in the clutch, but a transmission. Well, when assembling, do not forget about the sealant :-) [Chief] What should be done so that the ELMO clutches do not automatically switch?

I turned on the ELMO couplings in the 4x2 position. After a few kilometers on the left wheel, the arrow turned out to be about 4x4. Turned on 4x2 again. It happened again. Moreover, the faster you go, the faster it jumps. Clearly, this is a disease. I disassembled the clutch, looked - and did not understand anything. He called a friend, although he is not UAZovod, but a very smart man. After a couple of minutes, he says - "make a recess here." In the design of the clutch there is a cup with three curly notches along the border of which, when switching 4x2-4x4, balls roll and remain in extreme positions. On the left clutch in the 4x2 position, the ball is where shown in the figure and, when moving, tends to move to the opposite corner. You just need to make a small recess under it for a clearer fixation. It helped me. [Anatoly Khokhryakov (HOHAN)]

The bridge is buzzing. What could it be?

If you are sure that it is the bridge that is buzzing, and not something else, then you need to sort it out. For some reason, our people believe that nothing can happen to the bridge :) - maybe, and how. On my old UAZ, the bridge buzzed terribly - when I got tired of it - I disassembled and found a broken axle shaft shank at the entrance to the bearing in the onboard gearbox - changed the axle shaft, at the same time changed the main pair (since I dismantled the bridge), several bearings and all oil seals - repair cost 10% of the cost of a new bridge - no rumble, fuel consumption has dropped sharply, etc. So don't do garbage - sort out the bridge. By the way, I recommend rolling out the bridge from under the car as an assembly, right on wheels - I, like a fool, took it apart in place - I got scared, then it dawned on me - I assembled it completely separately from the car, poured oil, etc. and rolled it back - it remains to attach shock absorber springs and brake pipes :).
The rumble comes from the main gear of the front axle. This is fine. After the first 4 thousand and changing the oil in the transmission (filled with TAD-17), the noise became much less. In winter, on a snowy road with the front axle engaged at a speed of 80-90 km / h, there is only a slight whistle. In my "Goat", unlike most, caps of unknown purpose are welded (or screwed) to the rear axle shafts (from the end). Does anyone know why they are needed and are they needed at all? The thing is, I want to put hubcaps on the rims, and because of these bulging tapered caps, I'll have to cut an extra hole in the hubcaps. How would you rip them off? I tried to unscrew them, but nothing happened.

This is a constructive ineradicable feature of military bridges. These caps transmit the moment from the short axle shaft of the gearbox to the hub (it has splines inside). Most likely, you will have to make an extra hole. And you can still change the bridges. I recently saw strange hubs on the "loaf". The bridges are ordinary, civilian, and the axle shaft flange is fastened not with six, but with ten bolts (as in the military). What could it be?

I bought these hubs a year ago. They differ from the previous ones only in the number of holes and are quite compatible with them (six-bolt axle shafts sit on them without alterations). There should be absolutely no discrepancies on a normal hub and a normal axle shaft. Of these 10 holes, 6 are exactly the same as the old ones. The remaining 4 were added in the middle between them, and 2 gaps were left so that the removable bolts of the axle shaft rested there (there are 2 threaded holes in it to push it out of the hub if it sticks. These holes just need to be directed to holes in the 10-hole hub). And now no one sells or produces 6-hole hubs. And why, if they should stand up instead of 6-hole ones without alterations and refinements? How to adjust wheel bearing tightness?

There is a trick in bearings - if you tighten the first nut under the normal preload of the bearing, then the second one, when you start to counter, selects the slack in the thread and pinches the bearing. I adjust after removing the brake drum, so that the bare hub is and spins in the bearings after locking easily and evenly, without biting, i.e. evenly. If the bearing is slightly overtightened, then the rotation is jerky, as if on sand, the fingers feel it well.
Then I check with the wheel on - then the lever is large. October 2003 About SHRUS according to the Willis system

We have appeared in the sale of the front axle axle shaft (joint of unequal angular velocities) according to the Willis system (American). They differ from our relatives in that instead of five small stupid balls there is one big one. Grooves are made on it in two mutually perpendicular planes along the entire circumference. This groove includes two forks. Their advantages: they do not wear out at all (eternal system), in principle they cannot jam (which happens with relatives), a larger angle of rotation of the front wheels is possible. I have been standing for the fifth year, they have proven themselves great! They are cheaper than relatives. Produced, it seems to me, in Vyksa (Nizhny Novgorod region) [MISHA from Nizhny]

As far as I understand, kinematically, this does not differ from a conventional universal joint. This means that it really has unequal angular velocities (which is worse than equal, like a native) and that the angle of rotation of the wheels is LESS than that of the native CV joint. Now, if the grooves did not lie in planes, but had a more complex shape, then this would completely change the matter. In addition, the most loaded surfaces there have sliding friction, and not rolling, as in native ones, which means that the lubricant is desirable, apparently hypoid (and not Litol) ... Wear resistance, for the same reason, is also doubtful. Another thing is that it is enough for relatives to wear out a little to jam, and these can, apparently, be worn out to the abrasion of the forks. I have a book on the history of the domestic automotive industry, and so a disk hinge is drawn there. It is kinematically equivalent, in my opinion, to two cardan shafts combined at one point. I don't remember exactly, but perhaps this design was called the "Willis-type hinge". This is a constant velocity joint, if only because it is symmetrical. And the angle of rotation of the wheels, apparently, is greater ... Signs that you need to adjust / replace the kingpins

When driving through bumps, when bouncing, bumps into the steering wheel.

You hang the wheel with a jack higher, take it from the bottom of the wheel (right at the ground) and start pulling towards you - away from you, i.e. along the axis of the bridge. If the play is small, then it is normal, if it is large, then you need to either deal with gaskets, or change everything. How to unscrew a rusted gearbox plug? After three years of riding on salt, the corks on the bridges have rusted tightly. 2 mm sticks out - you can’t grab it, the hexagonal slot has become round. I overcame one cork using the sadistic method - I drilled it out and picked out the remnants of the thread with taps - it took 2.5 days. Tell me, is there a less bloody way?

I took a vise (they had new, ribbed, hard alloy jaws) and dived under the car with them. The stump of the cork was clamped very tightly, putting a pipe on the vise handle. After that, I put a crowbar into the hole of the vise and jerked sharply, strongly. The plug has moved 1/6 turn. Next is the matter of technology.
You can also try to grab first with pliers (a semicircular part with a good notch), and then clamp the pliers with a vise. In this way, I have repeatedly turned out broken bolts and studs.

Believe me - the most correct: to weld a nut on a plug - it only seems difficult - in fact, the easiest way.
Cork during welding will ignite and sour. Easily unscrew with a simple head. Cork can be used further

These plugs are on sale. They are the same with our Volga, so you can try to look in GAZ stores.
Our standard sequence of actions was as follows:
1) you hammer in the hexagon by 13 (and completely break off the edges on the cork);
2) knock out the plug with a chisel counterclockwise (until it is flush with the bridge);
3) you weld a piece of iron (for example, a hexagon) and, trying to turn it off, (you tear it off several times);
4) drill a 12-14 mm hole in the cork (from now on, if the cork is filled, you can plug it with a piece of wood :) and cut the remaining ring in half and take it out in parts ... (Attention: taper threads on plugs!)
I want to unscrew the cork in the first stages The car "roars" at high speed. Shock absorbers, wheels, steering in order. What's the matter?

The symptom is very typical for a malfunction called "improper adjustment of wheel hub bearings" - increased play in them causes "yaw" of one or more wheels, which immediately affects directional stability. Apparently, you ... constantly drive "for 100", although the running gear of the car, and, in particular, the wheel hubs, are not quite adapted for this. UAZ has a HUGE unsprung mass and a very stiff suspension! I advise you to revise the front wheels, for sure there is either a large backlash, or in general - the destruction of the separators, although in the latter case you would have heard this even on the UAZ.
Tighten the bearings EXACTLY according to the instructions - and not "until the backlash felt by the hand is eliminated", even if the wheel rotates a little tight - check later, by heating the hub. [Makhno]

I completely agree with Makhno about the hubs, but the pivots, and especially the bushings, can also significantly affect the directional stability. Theoretically, there could be such a situation: the pivots could initially be put into the steering knuckles without bushings (what don’t we have?) At first they worked without bushings due to the fact that they were well pressed to the steering knuckles. Worn out, the CV joints began to hang out. Hence exchange rate instability.
You need to do what Makhno advises - hang out the front wheels, sway in a vertical direction. If there is play, disassemble the hubs and tighten the bearings. If after that the backlash does not disappear, then engage in pivots. Wheel alignment

Here is one of the easy ways.
You find a suitable size (must pass freely with a gap of 5-30 mm between the wheels) stick, tube, etc. At worst, you can even use a thick branch of a suitable length. Then you make marks from the inside of the tires (in the middle between the tread and the edge of the disc) and measure the distance between them with a stick and a ruler (you measure the gap between the end of the stick and the sidewall with it. Then you roll the car so that the wheel makes 1/2 turn and again The difference in the readings of the ruler is the convergence.In this case, the gap in front should be less than in the back.
Ideally, 2 tubes are used, one of which fits into the other with a small gap [Chif] How do I remove the right upper king pin cover (with steering arm)?

This lever is very loaded, therefore, on the studs, under the nuts of its fastening, "crackers" are installed in special holes - hardened conical liners with a cut. They, when pressed with a nut from above, are squeezed around the stud rod, and provide a secure fastening of the lever. Over time, the whole thing gets very rusty from the water that gets there and, indeed, if this assembly was not assembled by itself, it can be very difficult to remove the lever - the croutons seem to bite themselves between the body of the lever and the pin. It is NOT necessary to heat this thing. The nuts must be removed, cleaned all around and find and clear the cuts on the "breadcrumbs" - pour WD-40 or kerosene around the studs, wait two hours, periodically watering more. But then - knock with a hammer (500 g) on ​​the upper plane of the lever, from above. Put something on the hairpins so as not to break them off - you will be tormented to turn them out later. Periodically tap from the sides, but not hard. [Makhno] A few tips for disassembling the military bridge (to replace the CV joint)

For disassembly, you only need to unscrew the wheel, and half.
And I draw your attention: IT IS NECESSARY TO ASSEMBLE THE FINAL GEAR CASE OR WITH THE OLD GASKET OR WITH THE SAME AS IT STOOD IN THICKNESS. This is important for rolled gears.
AND DO NOT UNLOCK STILL UNLESS NECESSARY the fastening of the small roller bearing housing (2 bolts are similar to cardan ones) THE REASON IS THE SAME Homemade kingpin puller

Take a piece of sheet steel, 100x150 and about 8-10 mm thick, drill an 11 mm hole in the center. AND EVERYTHING! To this, you also need an M10 bolt 80-10 mm long and a nut with a washer.
Procedure: remove the thrust plate, screw its bolts back, by hand, so that they protrude by 15 mm, put YOUR plate on top, screw the nut on the bolt and, placing the washer through the hole in the "puller", wrap it in the kingpin. Now, if, while holding the head of the bolt, rotate the nut, the king pin will EASILY come out. [Makhno]

We remove the trunnion, CV joint and from the inside we burst with something concrete or with a sledgehammer through the mandrel. Possibly with bushings. And you still need to unroll the bushings with a reamer ...
(folk recipes) "Volgovsky" bridges

We ... make combined bridges. The crankcase of the bridge is taken from the Volga 24s and the Uaz stockings are pressed in, and the main pairs are put on different, but the most convenient ones from Gaz-21 (9x41 teeth). Such bridges run longer and more reliably, the UAZ does not lose power and becomes faster.

I remade my own bridge on my UAZ to GAZ-24. The speed has become much higher, the consumption of 11-12 liters. True, with a load of 600-800 kg a little heavy

An unexpected revelation for me was that the seals, in particular the hub seals, are corroded (Zh8ёprst) by ordinary lithol for some week there. The working edge does not remain at all, and the rest is smeared with black soot: (For myself, I concluded that before installation, the seals need to be held for a day or two in an environment similar to the one in which they will work (for example, in a mixture of Litol and TAD) and see what will happen. How to get rid of leaks through the hubs of bridges (provided that the breathers are in good condition and the seals are in order - (U))

What you need: red ABRO sealant, blue ABRO thread lock, solvent (you can use white spirit, kerosene, but gasoline is very undesirable!), if the hub cap bolts are badly worn, then new bolts, and some more rags. First, remove the covers, soak the bolts (even new ones) in a solvent, wipe the cover and hub with rags and solvent, wait until it dries. We take the sealant, and smear the cover and hub with a thin layer, then with a bare finger (aesthetes can wear rubber gloves or something else that fits in size :) we smear the sealant so that it lies in a thin, even layer. Yes, it is advisable to jack up the wheel to make it easier to align the holes in the cap and hub. We put on the cover, but not completely, by turning the wheel we combine the holes, take the bolts, wipe them clean, drip a lock onto the thread, and bait the bolts. Yes, GROVERS ARE NOT NEEDED AT ALL, it's better without them. Then evenly tighten the bolts and tighten them completely. The sealant should come out quite a bit, after curing, cut off the excess. You can’t drive right after that, it’s advisable not to lower the wheel to the ground for an hour. That's all. The whole operation takes a maximum of half an hour per wheel. No leaks, no loosening, which is what I wish you! [Roman aka Behemoth 4x4] Comparison of conventional ("civilian") bridges and "spicer" bridges

The "spicers":

On the machines "Hunter" and on the new machines of the 316x family, pins and CV joints of a new type are installed. Pivots of a new type are identified by healthy nuts on the caps of the pivots. See drawing.

Authorship - Voldy.

Bridges (central part) MTZ-82 + final drives from T-40. Installed "native" self-locking locks from MTZ in both bridges. Rubber 36"

UAZ cars cannot be called a very common group of vehicles on modern roads, but despite this, people are often interested in issues related to the design features of the front or rear axle or troubleshooting other components and systems of these vehicles. Given this fact, in this article we will consider the device of the UAZ front axle using the example of model 3741, or, as it is also called, “loaves”.

How the UAZ front axle works

The front axles of the old model, which include part of the UAZ-3741 design, do not differ much from similar new elements of the Spicer type. The fundamental differences between them lie only in crankcase design, dimensions of the components of the final drive and differential, as well as in some of the parts used.

The main part of the old bridge is a split crankcase, which consists of two divided halves, each of which has casings pressed into them with axle shafts inside. The casings also provide for the presence of safety valves, which are responsible for limiting the growth of oil pressure in the system.

The main gear and differential are located in the crankcase, which have a standard device: a drive gear with a small diameter is located in the horizontal direction and is connected to the universal joint. It engages with a large driven gear, which is located in the longitudinal direction. A differential is placed inside the driven gear, consisting of four satellites located on two axles, and two axle gears.

Along the edges of the crankcase there are pivot assemblies, which include ball bearings with housings of pivot pins (or steering knuckles) on them. On the side opposite from the axle shaft, the trunnions themselves are attached to the trunnion bodies, in which the wheel hub is mounted by means of two bearings. In the housings of the ball bearings there are constant velocity joints (CV joints), the outer pins of which are located in the hubs.

The main feature of the UAZ front axles is the presence in them of a mechanism for connecting the wheel hub with the axle shaft, which is made in the form of a coupling, with which you can connect or disconnect the hub and the hinge pin. This is what guarantees the transmission of torque from the differential to the wheel.

When the clutch is disengaged, the wheel hub can rotate freely on the trunnion, which means that the car will have a 4 × 2 wheel formula. When the clutch is engaged, the wheel hub through the CV joint will be connected to the axle shaft and differential, and the car becomes all-wheel drive - 4 × 4. The front axles of the old UAZ representatives, the design features of which are also characteristic of "loaves", were equipped with hubs with drum brakes installed on them. To control the wheelbase on the bridge, there are steering knuckle levers (located at the top of the steering knuckle housings) and steering rods connected to them.

Note! In the new bridges of the Spicer type, the steering angle of the wheels reaches 32 °, while the same indicator of older specimens does not exceed 29 °. Otherwise, driving cars with different types of bridges is no different.

Possible bridge malfunctions and their causes

The main malfunctions of the front axle include the formation of leaks of lubricating fluids, excessive wear of fasteners, defects in bearings, axle teeth, as well as mechanical damage to the beam and wear of components. The causes of these malfunctions can be very diverse. For example, if the front-wheel drive is engaged on a rear-wheel drive car, then driving on uneven sections of the road will cause damage to the components of the transmission. The use of winter gear oil in summer or flight fluid in winter can also lead to a similar effect, which in any case will not have the best effect on the functioning of the car. Also, remember to keep your tires at a constant pressure to help prevent bearing and shaft problems.

As for the most common cause of various malfunctions of the UAZ 3741 front axle, in most cases, the basis for their appearance is a violation of the axial clearance of the pivots. To check whether it is broken or not, it is enough to raise the front of the car with a jack and try to shake the wheel up and down. If axial play is observed, then the pivot clearance will have to be adjusted.

Interesting fact! The first car produced by the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant, known as the GAZ-69, already had a 4 × 4 wheel arrangement, which provided it with simply phenomenal cross-country ability. Moreover, this vehicle was not whimsical in terms of maintenance, which was also an indisputable advantage. A similar concept of a "people's SUV", which was successfully implemented in the GAZ-69, still retains its relevance and continues to be implemented in modern models of the UAZ group.

How to remove the front axle

Given that the UAZ-3741 has a frame structure, then dismantling the front axle will not be particularly difficult. To complete the task, you will need durable and high-quality jack, stops, which can withstand one and a half tons, and a special liquid WD-40, to loosen rusty nuts.
The procedure for removing the front axle is as follows:

1. Chock the rear wheels to make sure the vehicle is secure.
2. Disconnect the right and left brake pipes from the rubber hoses directed to the brake drums of the front wheels.
3. Unscrew the nuts securing the brake hoses and dismantle the hoses themselves.
4. Unscrew the fastening nuts of the lower ends of the shock absorber and the bolts connecting the cardan shaft to the drive gear flange.
5. Loosen and unscrew the bipod ball stud nut and disconnect the rod from it.
6. Now you should unscrew the fasteners (nuts) of the front spring ladder and remove the part (ladder) along with gaskets and linings.
7. At the last stage of work, lift the front of the car by the frame and remove the bridge from under it.

On this, the removal of the part can be considered completed, and if you decide to repair the front axle, then you can proceed with your plan.

How to disassemble the bridge

When repairing the front axle, it must first be installed on a special stand. This will greatly facilitate the task of disassembly, which consists of several successive steps:

Everything, on this dismantling of the UAZ bridge can be considered completed.

Did you know? The Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant, which is still producing UAZ vehicles, was founded in July 1941 and is part of the Sollers holding.

Dismantling the steering knuckle without removing the bridge

If you do not want to dismantle the front axle of the UAZ, but it is still somehow necessary to disassemble the steering knuckle, then you should follow these steps:

Thus, by performing these simple manipulations, you can disassemble the steering knuckle without any need to remove the bridge.

Domestic off-road cannot scare UAZ car owners, but for their proper operation, it is necessary to adhere to certain operating rules.

So, for example, UAZ ("loaf") has a front axle, the device of which imposes certain requirements on the control of the machine. Among other things, such axles provide for disabling wheel hubs and axle shafts, which helps to increase the resource of axle parts when the front drive is turned off. Therefore, to turn on the UAZ-3741 front drive, you will have to perform two actions: by turning the clutch, connect the wheel hub to the axle shaft, and then, using the lever, turn on the front drive.

In order not to damage the components of the structure, you can turn on the front-wheel drive only after the clutches are turned on, moreover, both on a non-working car, and in the process of its movement at a speed of no more than 40 km / h. If the drive enable lever with the car turned off does not want to occupy the working position, then you need to start the engine and switch it on the go.

As soon as the machine overcomes the problematic section of the road, perform all the steps in reverse order: stop the vehicle, turn off the front axle using the lever and turn the clutch caps to the “4 × 2” position. After that, the car will be able to continue its movement as a normal rear-wheel drive vehicle.

Remember! It is impossible to activate the front-wheel drive by means of a lever (from the passenger compartment) without engaging the clutches.

Also, experts do not advise constantly driving with the clutches on, as this seriously reduces the life of the front axle and rubber.

Nevertheless, in the off-season and with the constant use of the UAZ-3741 in off-road conditions, the clutches can not be turned off, it is enough to adhere to a moderate speed limit.

Interesting fact! Nowadays, there are systems for remote rotation of clutches, which can have a pneumatic or electric drive. Engaging and disengaging clutches in the presence of such a system is performed by pressing a button located in the passenger compartment.

As for the maintenance of the "loaf", it is not particularly difficult. Regularly check all sealing elements, clean the valves and, if necessary, tighten the existing threaded connections. In addition, do not forget about the need to periodically check and adjust the wheel bearings and diagnose the axial clearance of the drive gear.

Particular attention should be paid to the transmission oil poured into the bridge, which must be replaced in a timely manner (according to the manufacturer's recommendations - every 40,000 km or more often, depending on the specific operating conditions, the age of the vehicle and the quality of the lubricant being filled in). It is also necessary to periodically change the oil in the CV joint, wheel hubs and steering knuckles, and in the Spicer-type drive axles, the guide bushings of the disc brakes are additionally lubricated.

Regular maintenance and proper operation of the front and rear axles of the UAZ-3741 is the key to reliable operation of the car for many years.

Surely you have seen UAZ cars on sale, where car owners proudly talked about military bridges, making an extra charge of several thousand rubles. This topic has been discussed many times. Some say that such cars are worthy of attention, while others, on the contrary, prefer to drive on civilian bridges. What are they and what are their differences? Let's try to figure it out.

Varieties

On UAZ vehicles, two types of mechanisms are used - with a single-stage main, as well as with a final drive. The first (UAZ) military is installed on cars of a wagon layout, the second - on a cargo-passenger model 3151 (in other words, "Bobik"). The driving mechanisms have a U-shaped design and are installed together with cardan shafts. However, the installation of such elements on wagon-type cars (such as a “tadpole”) requires significant technical improvements. This applies to the design of the suspension, bipod traction, bridges. Also, for full-fledged work, a cardan shaft shortened by a centimeter is required.

As for the final drive elements, they have differences in the middle part, namely, a smaller differential of the military bridge. UAZ with such a mechanism also differs in a different way of installing the final drive gear. There are few differences here. It is only mounted on tapered roller bearings. UAZ, whose military bridge is considered more durable, has a more complex design compared to its civilian counterpart. Between the pinion gear and the large bearing ring there is an adjusting ring, as well as a spacer and spacers. The bearings of the drive gears are clamped with a flange fastening nut.

Device

Where are the final drives located? On UAZ-469 vehicles, whose military bridges are located at the rear, the transmission itself is located in the crankcases, where necks are pressed onto the outer parts of the axle shaft casings. The drive gears are mounted on the splined end of the axle shaft, between the roller and ball bearings. The latter is attached with a retaining ring in the crankcase. There is a special oil deflector between the ball bearing and final drive housing. The roller mechanism is fixed in the housing with two bolts. The inner ring of the bearing is attached to the axle shaft with a retaining ring. The driven gear is attached to the final drive flange. The driven shaft rests on the bushing and bearing. By the way, the latter has a left-hand thread. The driven shafts of the rear final drive are connected to the wheel hub using splined flanges.

The transmission housing is cast together with the stub axle housing. The drive gear is mounted on the spline of the driven cam between roller and ball bearings (they take axial loads of the hinge).

Peculiarities

On such cars as the UAZ "Loaf", "Farmer", as well as long modifications of the model 3151, civil bridges are installed (in the common people "collective farms"). However, military counterparts are mounted on some "bobbies". These are new models with the index 316, 3159 and the Bars modification, which is distinguished by an increased track. But as a result of such a decision, military bridges (UAZ) are not simple here - they are elongated, geared, with a modified "stocking".

What is the difference between the military?

First of all, such a bridge differs from the civilian one in the presence of final drives. Thanks to this, the vehicle's ground clearance is increased by 8 centimeters (that is, the gearbox is located above the standard one). The main pair has fewer teeth, but they are larger. This design significantly improves reliability. The gear ratio is also different. At military bridges, it is 5.38. What does it mean?

The car becomes more high-torque on climbs, is able to easily carry heavy loads on itself (or behind itself - on a trailer). However, this mechanism is not designed for speed. The so-called "collective farm" bridges are faster than their military counterparts. And, of course, the differences relate to the cardan shaft. If these are military bridges (UAZ), the length of this element is 1 centimeter shorter. Therefore, when replacing or repairing a shaft, it is necessary to specify the bridge under which it is designed. The recommended wheel size is 215x90 with a diameter of 15 inches.

Advantages

So, the first plus is ground clearance. It, unlike civilian models, is 30 centimeters. "Collective farm" UAZ vehicles have a clearance of 22 centimeters. The second plus is the increased torque. This is a huge plus if you are going to carry large loads or tow a trailer. Due to the large size of the teeth, they do not wear out as often as on civilian ones (concerns the main pair).

Also, military bridges (UAZ) are distinguished by a more even distribution of the load between the final drive and the final drive. Well, the last thing the owner of such bridges can boast of is the presence of a limited slip differential. This is known when driving off-road (in fact, UAZ was intended for him). If the car is stuck in the mud on only one side, you will not have slippage, as on civil bridges (the left wheel moves, but the right one does not).

What are these bridges losing?

Now we will list the shortcomings of this mechanism, because of which there are disputes between the “Uazovods”. The first disadvantage is the increased weight. Civil bridges are lighter, and therefore fuel consumption is less.

Also, their design has fewer complex parts, so the "collective farmer" is more maintainable. Yes, and spare parts for the "warrior" are more difficult to find (the same military bridge gearbox). UAZ with a civilian bridge is more comfortable to ride and faster. Also, due to the use of spur gears in military analogues, the operation of this design is noisier. Also on civilians, you can install a spring suspension and disc brakes. It is impossible to put all this on military bridges (including UAZ-469). Oddly enough, it is civilian mechanisms that are more unpretentious in maintenance. Take at least oil - military bridges have much more lubrication points.

Reviews

Some motorists, in response to the statement "military bridges are better than civilian ones," agree only 50 percent. As for the increased clearance, these centimeters do not give much advantage. Those who need it lift the suspension and install more “evil” wheels. As a result, ground clearance can be increased by 1.5-2 times - it all depends on the desire and skills of the car owner. Drivers also complain about increased noise. Still, army bridges make themselves felt, even if the car is used for civilian purposes. And sometimes, to get to your destination (hunting or fishing), you have to listen to this “melody” for several hours. This is especially noticeable on the asphalt surface. For many, consumption and dynamics are important - with military bridges, you can simply forget about these two factors. Reviews of car owners say that the car hardly picks up speed more than 60 kilometers per hour, while fuel consumption increases by 10-15 percent. In terms of maintenance, reviews note the problem of oil leakage. It starts at the final drives. Therefore, advice for those who are going to take a UAZ: immediately change the oil. Nobody ever thought about this seemingly simple operation. People buy this car and do not even think about the fact that they periodically need to change the oil in the engine and gearbox, not to mention the bridges. Of course, this and it is very difficult to “kill” it, but if you ride for 10 years on the same oil in the gearbox, the car is unlikely to thank you. As for cross-country ability, reviews note the special design of military bridges. They are made in the form of a ski. Therefore, to get stuck on military bridges, you need to try hard. And in terms of resource, they are more enduring, due to the use of other teeth.

Also, reviews note the absence of blocking. You can not put Military bridges they "do not digest." But, along with this, it is possible to install wheels over 30 inches. If civil bridges are used, it is necessary to strengthen the axle shafts and the main pair.

About the problem of consumption and not only through the eyes of car owners

Regarding noise: judging by the reviews, this is a very subjective opinion. Someone scolds military bridges for being noisy, but for some it does not matter - "as they used to make noise, so now." Regarding fuel consumption - with a properly adjusted intake system, such a UAZ will consume a maximum of 1.5 liters more than its civilian counterpart. In addition, some car owners note the lack of spare parts, since military bridges have not been produced for several decades. If you manage to find something, then only at the disassembly, and it is not a fact that the found will be in good condition. On the other hand, the bridge is not a “consumable”, like a filter, rubber and oil. And it’s not every day that you have to buy gears and other spare parts for it.

off-road element

If offroad is your priority, it is definitely better to put a military bridge.

But if you often drive on a normal asphalt surface, civilians are definitely chosen for such purposes. After all, it is not in vain that “collective-farm” bridges are put on all police “bobbies”. In the city, comfort and dynamics are a priority.

Conclusion

Thus, it is determined by the further purpose of the car - will it go just hunting and fishing or be prepared for a full-fledged off-road. But it is worth noting that even a civilian UAZ on "stock" tires is able to get through the ford. But on a daily basis, this opportunity should not be used: even on civilian bridges, "military echoes" are felt - a frame structure, a rigid spring suspension.

So, we found out how military bridges (UAZ) are arranged, what are their advantages and disadvantages compared to civilian ones. As you can see, you need to initially know for what purposes it will be used.