Do I need to add oil to the oil filter. Is it possible to pour the foundation in winter and what is needed for this? Is it possible to pour engine oil into the gearbox

Its physical dimensions and a number of other features.

To control the level of lubrication, most motors use a mechanical dipstick, but some power plants do not have it. In this case, on dashboard implemented a separate electronic indicator. There are also combined solutions.

As a rule, during operation, for various reasons, a decrease in the level of lubrication may occur. How to continue to operate the motor with a low level lubricant it’s impossible, in this case you need to know how much oil to add to the engine, as well as how to do it without harm to.

In this article, we intend to talk about when to add oil to the engine, how to do it correctly, in what cases it is possible to add another oil to the engine without risk, and also under what conditions this can cause possible harm to the unit or is strictly prohibited.

Read in this article

How often to add oil to the engine

As already mentioned, oil is added to the engine in different cases. The lubrication level can go both for natural reasons and fall as a result of engine breakdowns, after wrong selection and discrepancies in the type of product used, changes in the properties of the lubricant, etc.

To understand whether it is necessary to add oil to the engine, you need to check its level by putting the car on a flat surface. It is advisable to check the level “cold”, after several hours of inactivity, that is, when the grease has completely drained into the sump. For a quick check, it will be enough to wait 5-15 minutes, but such an analysis may turn out to be more approximate than accurate.

Taking into account the characteristics of a particular internal combustion engine, you can understand whether topping up is needed and how often it is necessary. In some cases, it is necessary to add lubricant, for example, every thousand kilometers, which is typical for faulty units with increased oil consumption as a result of wear, gaskets, seals.

In other internal combustion engines, the level is stable, that is, the lubricant is not topped up from replacement to replacement. Also, the level can be stable in the city and modes of medium loads, however, after driving on the highway, high revs a decrease is observed. In such a situation, it should be remembered that lubrication under high load conditions is consumed by waste, which is often stated by the engine manufacturers themselves.

Moreover, the manual may separately indicate that oil consumption is not only acceptable, but also within what limits it is normal for a particular motor. Based on the foregoing, you can understand what frequency of topping up is suitable in a particular case.

How to add oil to the engine: in winter, in summer, in a cold or hot internal combustion engine

To begin with, topping up the lubricant is often done on a cold one. It is poured into cold engine due to the fact that it is easier and faster to determine required level, i.e. to avoid possible underfilling or overfilling of the lubricant.

As practice shows, in the winter, especially when severe frosts, it is best to warm up the engine first, then give it time to cool down, as well as drain and “settle” the lubricant. Such preheating will allow the highly thickened lubricant to return to proper fluidity.

After that, the motor cools down, but the lubricating fluid still remains diluted, that is, the level can be determined quite accurately. Next, topping up is carried out, which is available in the internal combustion engine and fresh lubricant is easily mixed into a homogeneous mass.

However, it also happens that you have to add oil to hot engine(for example, ) while driving. This situation is quite common and becomes a reason for questions of this kind, what will happen if the driver added cold oil to a hot engine.

In this case, it is important to take into account not only the correct level, but also what temperature the lubricant has, which is topped up. You should also pay attention to the extent to which such topping up takes place. For a better understanding, let's imagine a standard situation when the car owner was driving along the highway, the engine was warmed up to operating temperatures, but then the light came on low pressure in the lubrication system.

Naturally, the driver stopped, turned off the power unit and found a low oil level. Then he immediately took out a canister from the trunk and added a liter of oil to the engine. If this happens in the summer, then the main risk will only be overfilling or underfilling in level, that is, inaccuracies as a result of topping up “hot”. But if it happens in winter, then the situation is somewhat different.

It is not difficult to guess that the lubricating fluid in the trunk will turn out to be very cold, that is, when poured into a warm engine, a strong temperature difference will occur. If at the same time such lubricating fluid not 50-100 grams are poured, but a whole liter or more, then the consequences can be unpredictable.

Experts note that in such a situation, the risk of not only exceeding the level or underfilling, but also the appearance of parts, as well as other defects in relation to individual elements of the internal combustion engine, increases significantly. In view of the foregoing, it becomes clear why the motor needs to be given time to cool down before adding lubricant, and in winter this is especially true.

If there is no suitable oil at hand for topping up

Quite often, motorists face an urgent need to add oil to the engine of a different viscosity, they have to use a third-party lubricant, there is no other way out but to add, etc.

Note that in some emergency situations, such actions are quite acceptable. At the same time, it is important to know when it is possible to add oil to a different brand of engine, what type of lubricant is better to use, what volume of lubricant to fill in. Let's figure it out.

Let's start with what to mix Various types lubricants of even one manufacturer is not recommended. The fact is that each product has a unique package of active chemical additives. These additives, when mixed, can react, which leads to precipitation, the oil in the motor coagulates, loses its properties.

In this case, mixing of mineral water with semi-synthetics and vice versa is allowed. Also, a synthetic lubricant can be added to a semi-synthetic product, and a semi-synthetic material can be added to synthetics.

Hydrocracking oils are recommended not to be mixed with both mineral and synthetic lubricants. However, in case of emergency, they can be mixed with mineral-based oils. We add that in case of urgent need and lack of choice, you can add any oil, since working without lubrication will definitely destroy the motor.

We also add that the best option can be considered mixing oils of the same manufacturer, which have the same base. In this case, the risks are minimal. If, for example, you add to the semi-synthetics of one brand exactly the same in terms of characteristics semi-synthetic oil another brand, then unwanted reactions may well occur.

Now let's turn to the so-called multi-purpose oils, which can be used equally in diesel and gasoline internal combustion engines, and also consider the possibility of adding diesel oil to gasoline unit and vice versa.

First, diesel oil does not differ much from gasoline in many respects, that is, such a lubricant can be added to emergency. Universal oils are an alternative at all, that is, they have balanced characteristics suitable for both types of engines.

The main thing is that before adding lubricant, the above recommendations must be taken into account. It is also important to remember that while driving on such a mixture of oils, the power unit should not be loaded.

As soon as possible mixed oil must be completely removed from the internal combustion engine, and then replaced with the type of lubricant recommended for a particular engine, along with an oil filter. We add that before changing the oil, it may be necessary to additionally flush the engine or reduce the further service interval by 30-50%.

Adding oil to the engine: step by step instructions for beginners

So, after making sure that topping up is necessary and having decided which oil will be added to the engine, it is necessary to put the car on a flat surface.
Then let the engine cool down (preferably leave the car for a few hours), and also allow the oil to drain completely into the sump.
Now you need to get to the oil filler neck. The indicated neck is located under the cover, which is located in the upper part. Most often, the lid has a pictogram in the form of an oil can with a drop of oil.
Next, you should unscrew the lid, you can also wipe it with a clean rag, and then set it aside.
Then you will need to make it yourself or insert a ready-made funnel into the oil filler neck. For self-manufacturing the top of a plastic bottle is suitable, which is enough to cut off from the base.

Please note that during all manipulations, do not allow dirt, dust, debris, foreign liquids or objects to enter the oil filler neck. A homemade or ready-made funnel must also be absolutely clean.

The presence of a funnel allows you to carefully add oil, and without the risk of spilling lubricant on the cylinder block and cylinder head. If oil gets on these parts, it will burn out from high heat, smoke and smell bad.

Also, engine oils disable rubber elements, soften insulation, all kinds of seals and similar elements in engine compartment. If oil has been spilled, then it is recommended to carefully wipe it off with a rag.

When topping up, oil should not be added immediately, but gradually. This means that 100-200 ml should be poured from the canister at a time. Next, you need to allow the grease to drain from the cylinder head into the sump. This may take about 10-15 minutes. Then the level is checked, after which you can continue to add lubricant again if necessary.
When checking the level on the dipstick, you must first remove the dipstick, then wipe it with a clean cloth, then reinsert it all the way into the hole and remove it again. Only after re-extraction can the level of lubricant in the sump be assessed.
After the oil level on the dipstick is strictly between the “MIN” and “MAX” marks, it is necessary to firmly insert it into the hole and tighten the oil filler cap.
The final step is to start the engine. Evaluate the operation of the internal combustion engine for extraneous noise, knocks, vibrations. Make sure that the oil pressure light on the dashboard does not light up, the electronic level does not show an insufficient amount of oil, do not.
Next, warm up the power unit, take a test drive. After that, it is recommended to let the engine cool down, after which the oil level is checked again. If a decrease in the level is noticeable again, fresh streaks appear from under the covers, seals or seals, traces of oil under the machine are visible, then the engine needs in-depth diagnostics and repair.

Remember, driving with low oil levels can quickly damage the internal combustion engine. For this reason, in a number of emergency cases, it is recommended to abandon attempts to get to the service station on your own. If the oil leaks are intense, then it is best to use a tow truck.

Do not pour oil into the filter! And that's why

It is these titles that are full of search engine results pages. But you click on the treasured link, and there is a simple zilch, sucked out of your finger. And I really like trying to come up with something new, something original. That's why I always look forward to new horror stories. Well, cleanly neighing

Here are the most valuable and popular ones.

1. When pouring oil into the filter, debris, canister foil and unfiltered oil can get into it.

The argument is just bomb! But then he takes and pours this oil from the same canister through the oil filler neck. What is no longer scary that debris, foil and unfiltered oil will get into the engine?

What if a fly flies into a new filter during transportation and while it is gathering dust on a shelf in a store and dies a painful death there. How to protect yourself from this? What to do? I suggest not to change the filter at all. So really 100% guarantee that nothing will fall into it.

2. An oil-soaked filter element will burst under pump pressure when the engine is started.

This is, in general, the most terrible horror story of all horror stories. That's just the question - what the hell will break it? The legendary Pascal left us a legacy of the law that we learned at school in physics lessons.

The pressure exerted on a liquid or gas is transmitted to any point without change in all directions.

Being in a closed circuit, the molecules of liquids and gases hit the walls of the circuit. Since the molecules are mobile, they are able to move from a place with a higher pressure to a place with a low pressure, i.e. within a short time, it becomes uniform over the entire surface of the occupied contour. Moreover, there is a bypass valve in the filter, which will open much earlier than the filter element even thinks to break through. Yet very simple. A normal filter will never break from the fact that you poured oil into it!

Or do these "specialists" change the filter to a new one before each engine start? Indeed, in the old already impregnated filter element. According to their logic, it is necessary to install a dry filter before each engine start

3. Filter manufacturers forbid filling oil.

But this is pure manipulation. In fact, the filters do not require filling! Do you feel the difference between “do not require filling” and “forbidden to fill in”? This is just marketing that saves a lot of man-hours of time for manufacturers, dealers and service centers to fill the filter with oil. This procedure was simply abolished, since it simply does not fundamentally change anything. And also allows you to use the filter in different locations on the engine. Either vertically or horizontally...

Therefore, no one forbids pouring oil, but you can simply do without this procedure.

4. If you pour oil into the filter, then the oil pressure indicator lights up longer at the first start.

And this is a pure lie! Those who say so, either did not check, or brazenly lie in order to come up with at least some other horror story. I personally checked - with a dry filter, the indicator burns much longer! And this is a fact, not a myth. Every normal person can test it.

5. If you pour oil into the filter, an air lock is formed and the pump cannot pump

A normal, serviceable pump will pump everything without problems. This is the first.

Now the second. The filter has a non-return valve that prevents oil from flowing out of the filter to idle engine. This valve has a primitive design and often, after a couple of thousand km, it performs its function far from 100%. Especially if you use the car once a week, the oil will leak out of the filter and there will be air. But you don't run every week to the store for a new filter, do you? The pump quietly fills the filter and the air is forced out without any problems. Therefore, this story is about air locks has nothing to do with reality.

So is it necessary to add oil to the filter or not?

The answer is on the drum. Fill it up or not. Nothing will change. The engine can run smoothly without load for some time even without oil.

Here the question is different. Do not listen to all these stories and horror stories. All of them are sucked from the finger and do not have any facts under them. Absolutely none. Don't waste your time on this.

Personally, I pour oil into the filter of my car and will fill it. Why? The answer is in paragraph 4. Firstly, it’s not difficult for me, and, secondly, the “oiler” on the instrument panel that goes out more quickly saves nerves and health. And this, believe me, is much more important than some oil filter.

Well, if I change the oil for someone, I always ask: “Do you want it with or without a bay?”

Do you believe in horror stories about oil in the filter? Answer the question and describe your opinion and experience in the comments.

Previously, they always poured grease into a new oil filter before screwing it into place, and everything was in order. In addition, even in the repair manual, such a procedure was provided. What has changed now? Now in any book you will not see such advice. “But many pour and recommend to others, everything works,” you say.

It works and will work, but there are several reasons why you should refuse it. All of them relate directly to the engines of modern cars.

If you are not the owner of old Zhiguli (or similar products of the Soviet-Russian automobile industry of the past), then you do not need to fill the filter with oil. Moreover, in many cars, the filters are at such an angle that the oil poured into the filter will simply pour out.

They used to do this because the oil pumps were not the most efficient, and almost all the oil was mineral. And then, the oil pump could not cope with pumping through the filter, especially if it is in the cold season. On current cars, the pump capacity is up to 50 l / min., And the pressure is up to 3 bar, therefore, it fills up quickly.

And the pictogram on the body (oiler with a drop of oil and filter), which many take as a recommendation to pour oil in, is nothing more than a notification - lubricate the o-ring. Then, when twisting, the rubber slides along the mating plane and does not wrinkle, which means that the filter will sit tightly and will not leak.

Why put oil in the filter?

It is often believed that if you do not immediately pour oil into the filter, then the first minutes the engine runs with oil starvation. Like, the filter paper does not have time to soak, especially during a cold start in winter, which is why the pressure light does not go out longer.

But the fact is that it does not burn due to a lack of oil, but insufficient pressure. It always lights up when starting a cold engine and due to air bubbles inside, but if only the oil had the required viscosity and the oil pump worked properly.

In fact, the motor may well work for the first seconds without oil due to the film that remained on its parts. On the idling without a heavy load, the engine is able to work for some time without damaging its internal elements. This time is enough to pump fresh oil through the system and fill the friction units inside the engine and form an oil film of the required thickness.

The most important thing is not a filled filter, but the operation of its bypass (bypass) valve!

The myth that "dry" filter material can be torn apart by the flow of incoming motor fluid remains a myth, not becoming a reality. After all, the filter breaks due to defective poor-quality material and a tight (not working or designed to work under very high pressure) check valve. And if you add too viscous oil, which also thickened in the cold, then not only the filter paper inside, but also its entire body can break!

Why you can not fill the filter with oil

When pouring oil into the filter, it turns out that it is this oil that will go directly to the engine, butthere is a probability what at the time of pouring, any debris can get into it (sand, dust, a piece of foil from the filling of the neck). And if it gets inside the motor, then nothing good will come of it!

And another argument against isair , which is located in the near-wall region,cannot pass through impregnated paper and exit through the check valve. When oil is poured, an uneven medium is obtained, a mix of oil and bubbles. Therefore, it turns out that you install a filter with air inside, and this can affect the oil pressure.

In addition, if the filter is on the side, and not at the bottom, then when it turns over when twisting, and before it snaps into place, some of the oil will pour out.

Yes, it’s good that paper is soaked, but there is a risk of bringing garbage there and airing oil system should alert you and dissuade you from pouring oil into a new filter before installation!

The engine of the car must work smoothly, since the controllability indicator depends on it. vehicle on the road. The moving parts of the motor need constant lubrication. Therefore, the level of lubricant must be constantly monitored. Every motorist should know how to add oil to a car engine.

Before you fill in a lubricant composition of a certain viscosity, you need to find out what kind of oily liquid is now in the car. If the car is already used, then information about the consumable can be obtained from the previous owner. It would not be superfluous to ask the former owner how often oil was poured into the power unit of the transport? Then it remains only to fill in the lubricant of the required brand and viscosity. Additionally, you can delve into the operating instructions for the machine and find out all the recommended information from the manufacturer.

The main functions of the lubricant

Topping up the lubricant in the motor system of the car is carried out when various factors occur. These can be natural phenomena, as well as defects that have appeared in the operation of the motor, for example, when using low-quality consumables.

Before you add oil to the engine, you need to find out if you need to add oil to the engine. Check the level of lubricant in engine compartment car. A similar operation is done on a cooled engine. It is desirable when the car is idle from the night. Some drivers do an express analysis of the oil level by letting the car stand still for a few minutes. This procedure gives only approximate results.

As you know, without motor fluids, the car's power plant will not work, as it performs a number of important functions.
The lubricant in the motor is constantly subjected to increased loads, especially temperature. The difference can be up to several hundred degrees. But such conditions should not affect the functionality of the lubricant mixture in any way. oily liquid capable of:
- Reduce contact between working metal surfaces, scoring is excluded;
- Reduce the likelihood of premature wear of working mechanisms, thanks to the use of anti-wear modifiers. Extended service life power unit transport;
- stable viscosity lubricating element Seals gaps between piston rings and cylinders. Compression increases, the possibility of hot gases entering the crankcase is excluded;
- To remove heat from the working mechanisms of the propulsion system;
- Prevent the formation of carbon deposits, sludge, deposits and other types of contaminants by keeping the power package clean. This function is performed by detergents or dispersants that are part of any machine fluid;
- Maintain high oil resistance to oxidation and rusting of metal surfaces through the use of antioxidant and anti-corrosion inhibitors.
This is just a small list of the useful qualities of a lubricant to maintain normal engine performance. Therefore, the level of engine fluid must always be above the minimum mark.

What causes an excess or lack of automotive lubricant?

Any experienced driver will tell you that when the engine is hot, the oil level should be between the lower and upper bar of the mechanical dipstick. How to measure the amount of car oil?

Checking the oil level

Can I add oil to a hot engine? The answer is not desirable, since the level readings will be incorrect, and you can get burned during the procedure. It is recommended to check the level “cold”, after a night of inactivity or through an express check, which is as follows. First you need to warm up power plant engine to optimum operating condition. little trip great option engine warm-up. After that, the vehicle should be fixed on a flat surface, turn off the engine and wait about 20-30 minutes. It is necessary that the oil mass of the glass in the oil pan. Next, the lubricant level is measured.

Excess oil

Before adding oil to the engine, it is necessary to take into account the main mistakes that novice drivers make. Most beginners believe that you can pour oil as much as you like, or you always need to maintain the level at the maximum level of the oil rod, the effect will only get better.
The first consequence is poor cranking of the engine. This is because any motor fluid has a certain viscosity, and its excess in the system creates additional resistance. Working parts spend more energy on movement. This is how increased consumption fuel, but this is not the worst.
During operation, the lubricant begins to expand in the vehicle's propulsion system. In a high-temperature environment, increased pressure occurs, which acts negatively on all seals of a working device. All oil seals, gaskets eventually begin to squeeze out, and engine oil leaks. Particularly sensitive seals crankshaft because the lubricant is supplied under pressure. As a result, all the interior of the engine becomes dirty, the seals must be replaced. In addition, there are a number of consequences of overflow: it is difficult to start a car in cold weather, piston rings are stuck, foaming of the oil composition.

Lack of consumable oil

Underfilling the lubricant also adversely affects the power plant of the car. The effect of oil starvation of working units and mechanisms appears, that is, at the time of starting the engine, oil enters the moving parts in insufficient quantities. A small amount of lubricant is not able to form a strong film to reduce contact between metal surfaces.

The lack of an optimal amount of lubricant in the engine contributes to the appearance of air pockets that will be distributed throughout the system.
The crankshaft will start to work without a lubricant, as a result, fine metal dust will form, which will subsequently fall into motor fluid. Over time, the pistons are likely to seize.
It is for these reasons that it is necessary to regularly check the level of the lubricant and add it if necessary.

How to add oil to the engine correctly? This question is asked by many novice drivers. The whole process of adding oil to the engine includes a number of elementary operations that any motorist can handle.

Initially, you should open the hood of the car and fix it on a metal hook or rod. The hood of a car is usually opened by pressing a lever that is below the level of the driver's left knee. Next, pull the lever under the hood cover.

After that, you need to find the oil filler neck, sealed with a lid. It is located on the engine block. Usually there is an inscription “Oil Fill” on it or a marking for the viscosity of the oil used, for example, 5W30. The lid is unscrewed, wiped with a clean cloth and left aside.

A funnel is inserted into the open space. It is necessary to avoid spills of engine oil into the cylinders. Pour in the oil in small batches. It is not allowed to turn containers with oil upside down. It is necessary to fill in about 200 ml per session, then wait 20 minutes for the engine oil to glass into the base of the crankcase.

After a fresh portion of grease has settled at the base of the crankcase, its level is checked with a metal rod. If there is not enough car oil, then you can repeat the topping up operation until the lubricant level approaches the nominal value, between the minimum and maximum values. The oil rod for checking the lubrication level must be wiped with a dry cloth before each check.

If a little engine oil got into the engine space, then you should not panic. Lubricant residue becomes dangerous when there is a strong smell of burnt oil after the engine has warmed up. It is advisable to clean the spill area with a dry cloth or paper towel.

When the engine fluid level reaches the optimum level, it is necessary to fix the dipstick and the filler cap back into place. The main thing is that everything is tightly twisted.

All unnecessary items are removed from the engine compartment, the lid is closed. Next, you need to start the engine, and let it idle for a while. At this time, the driver should carefully listen to the operation of the power device to identify extraneous sounds and noise. If the sensor is triggered check engine”, then the driver should immediately visit a car repair shop.

Now we know how to properly add oil to the engine, and whether it is possible to add oil to a hot engine. Timely topping up of lubricant allows you to save the resource of the car engine. This means that all working parts of the power unit will be lubricated in time and protected from oil starvation and other undesirable factors.

Not so long ago, I wrote an article on the topic -, in the engine of my iron horse. The article turned out to be quite popular, especially on the YouTube channel. Readers began to ask a lot of questions, and perhaps the most popular one - is it possible to fill in 95 or 98 instead of 92 gasoline according to a car passport? Will the valves burn out, will the pistons melt? And in general, what will be the consequences. The question is really interesting, so there will be both an article and a video version, in general it is interesting, so let's read and watch ...

Well, at the very beginning, I propose to recall again the octane number of gasoline. Why yes, because we need to understand why it is needed at all.

Octane number - This is an indicator that characterizes the detonation resistance of the fuel. That is, in simple terms - the higher the octane number, the higher the resistance to detonation or self-ignition.

Actually, we have already analyzed this in the previous article, you can follow the link at the beginning. But what follows from this? What would be the benefit of using 95 (98) gasoline in a car rated at 95?

95 (98) and 92

The difference between these gasolines is not so great, especially if you take the two closest ones, for example 95 and 98. BUT as we understood from the definition above, the higher the octane number, the more compression it can withstand.

That is, the 92nd can withstand a compression ratio of approximately - from 9 to 11.

95th, already from 11 to 12.5

But the 98th, up to 14

That is, if your engine is designed for the 92nd, and you fill it with, say, the 95th, then THIS IS A BENEFICIAL EFFECT ON ITS WORK. Since spontaneous combustion is further reduced. I'm already silent about 98 gasoline. High-octane fuel will ignite in the engine from the spark plug, and not from the compression ratio!

Remember guys, often additives that increase “octane” are designed specifically to reduce ignition at high compression ratios. But the composition of 92, 95, and 98 is often the same! Not always, of course, nevertheless, some branded gas stations add all sorts of detergents and combustion-improving compounds to gasoline, but often this is SO!

About burning gasoline

I would like to explain a little how gasoline of various octane ratings burns, we need this to understand power and a little savings.

76 (80) gasoline - burns quickly and not for long, I would even say explosively. It flared up quickly and quickly went out.
92nd - ignition is not so explosive, but gradual, that is, the flame spreads much "softer", and burning also takes a little longer.
95-98 - it becomes clear that the higher the "octane", the spread of the flame in gasoline is softer (if I may say so), more uniform or something. YES, and this fuel burns longer.

Therefore, performance on high-octane types seems to be softer and the motor runs quieter. It DOESN'T seem like it actually is.

About power and consumption reduction

Many write that he began to fill 95 (98) fuel consumption fell, and the car began to pull like "mad"! It is not always possible to believe in such words, although there is some truth in this. Specially highlighted this point.

Actually, as can be understood from the previous paragraph, the higher the “octane number”, the “softer” and more evenly gasoline ignites, AND ALSO BURN LONGER IN ENGINE CYLINDERS. And this means LONGER PUSHING THE PISTON, let the difference be a percentage, BUT IT REALLY IS. Here's the power you get - DO NOT WAIT FOR THE MOTOR BUDER TO "BREAK" FROM THE PLACE, but a little power will be transferred, usually from 3 to 7% (often before an increase of less than 10% is not felt by the driver). Also, fuel consumption will drop by about this percentage, that is, a maximum of 7%, although it all depends on the driver, if you “fry”, then not only will the consumption not fall, but rather increase.

That is, you can achieve savings and increase power, but it will be within the margin of error.

Will the valves or pistons burn out?

These horror stories came to us from old carbureted cars. Where often there were only two types of gasoline 76 and 93. And it was not recommended to pour 93 into the engine with 76! Why? YES, because the carburetor could not automatically adjust the “octane number”, and it turned out that the mixture was still burning in the cylinders, but the exhaust valves opened and were melted by this flame!

YES, it was real, but if you adjust the carburetor to use high-octane fuel, then nothing bad will happen either.

Modern cars, on the other hand, often already allow the use of all types of fuel, in the instructions for use, you can see the following inscriptions:

91 to 99
At least 92
At least 95
95 is recommended, but 98 is also possible

Etc. What does this tell us, and what often modern motors can work on almost all modern standards. If we say in your car, at least 92 is recommended, then this means that you can fill in all types and 92, 95, 98.

If the car is designed for 95, then you can pour 95, 98. BUT if you fill in 92 and detonation starts, then the ignition angle will immediately correct the “knock sensor”, which is exactly what it is designed for.

THAT is modern motors, in the truest sense of the word - SMART! Based on a bunch of sensors, it will make the right decision and run the right algorithm with this type of fuel.

So - NOTHING WILL BURN WITH YOU, NEITHER A VALVE, NOR PISTONS.

A few words about American and turbocharged engines

I was also asked such questions - “I bought a car imported from the USA, it says that I need to pour AKI 91 gasoline. What is it, and what kind of fuel should I choose?”

In the US market, there are slightly different standards, their classification is not like our AI (that is, “research”). The abbreviation AKI, means - a conditional, average designation of two indices (("research" + "motor") / 2).

If we bring it closer to our standards, we get something like this:

AKI87 = AI92

AKI89-91 = AI95

AKI93 = AI98

I would also like to note the turbocharged options, in the last article I said that it is recommended to pour at least “95th” into them.

Let's think logically, why exactly 95 and 98? Turbocharged engines use much larger volumes of air and fuel, the mixture in them should be more enriched, and from the points above we understood what RICH fuel is, it gives us more octane. Think for yourself - WHY BUY A TURBO, AND FURTHER FEED IT WITH LEAN BATCHES, it's just not designed for it! The amount of air must strictly correspond to the calorific value of the fuel.

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