Homemade electric motor in the car. Self-manufacturing of an electric car

Gasoline-powered cars, which are familiar to us, are gradually fading into the background. This is due to the fact that electric vehicles are gaining more and more popularity in society. Indeed, machines powered by electricity are easier to make, use and operate. In addition, a car of this type does not pollute the atmosphere with fuel combustion products, which means it protects the environment. Given all the advantages of an electric car, the problem of its independent production becomes relevant.

To make an electric car means to create a great replacement for a car that runs on gasoline. . With the help of modern technology, it is very easy to solve the problem of fuel costs. After all, having once invested a tidy sum of money on the elements of your electric car, you will save much more on fuel in the future.

Today, many automotive giants produce electric or hybrid cars. But their cost is out of reach for the masses, so the creation of a car powered by an electric motor is an ideal way out for everyone who wants to buy it.

How to make an electric car? Where to begin?

So, you are determined to create a car with an electric motor with your own hands? Then it is necessary to acquire some components of the future mechanism. Firstly, automobile. A certain model that serves as the basis for a future electric car. That is, creating a machine that runs on electricity with your own hands is a re-equipment, and not manufacturing from scratch.

Secondly, Electrical engine. It is natural that an electric car cannot exist without a heart.

Thirdly, batteries, their charging and housing. An electric car needs to be powered. Batteries can easily handle this task.

Fourth, voltage regulator and synchronizers. Your invention can only function on an electric current of a certain voltage. Its constant drops can lead to short circuits and completely disable the electric car.

Fifth, electric gas pedal. Since the car and its operation are built on a different principle, you need a special pedal that will set your final invention in motion.

It would be advisable to consider each component of the future electric vehicle.

car model

Almost any car can be the base of your future car. For this, small cars are best suited, because one of the characteristics of an electric car is lightness. This property is directly affected by the size and material of the base car.

Best of all, our VAZ, Zaporozhets, OKA and Slavuta, as well as foreign Fiat 126 and small cars produced before 2000, are best suited for the role of the basis for creating an electric car.

You can create a specific body with your own hands, but keep in mind that this is a time-consuming and expensive undertaking.

The heart of an electric car

The electric motor must be purchased taking into account the dimensions of the machine and the way it is connected to the car.

If such an engine is connected to a gearbox, then even a motor with a small power will do. 5-7 kilowatts is enough to move the car. If the electric motor is connected through the main bridge, then a more powerful motor is needed. There is a pattern: engine power directly depends on the dimensions and weight of the machine. A weak electric motor on a small car will provide a speed of no more than 75-80 km / h, when connected to a gearbox.

It should be noted that the cost of electricity is independent of the power of the motor and the distance traveled. Dependence is only on driving speed. The faster the car goes, the faster the battery drains. So feel free to choose a more powerful motor.

Battery

When creating a new generation car with your own hands, opt for a lithium battery. It is this type of power source that can operate without recharging at a speed of 80 km / h for 5 hours. Such batteries are quite tenacious - on average they can work 5 years. But, lithium-filled energy carriers are not cheap.

A more economical option are lead batteries. They will last less than two years, and function during heavy traffic for only about an hour.

To extend the life of the battery, you need to select them in the right amount. Small power supplies die earlier due to heavy wear, as they are quickly and completely discharged when the car is moving. Therefore, it is more profitable to buy a large energy carrier with an extensive resource.

Heating

If, when creating an electric car with your own hands, you plan to use it in the cold seasons, you should think about a heating system.

Heating a car with electricity is expensive. In such conditions, a charged battery is not enough even for a single trip. Based on this, it is worth installing a heater that runs on gasoline or a seat heating system. For electrical engineering, it is better to buy a separate battery.

power regulator

The power regulator is one of the main components of an electric vehicle, which regulates the engine traction. The most reliable devices from American manufacturers. You can get a cheaper analogue from China.

The regulator must be selected taking into account the power of the current. For daily travel, you can purchase a standard, 150-volt device.

In addition, in a do-it-yourself electric car, you need to connect a converter with identical functions instead of a generator.

How to make an electric car: instructions

To work productively and quickly, involve others in your undertaking. The help of acquaintances and friends will never hurt, and if they also have useful knowledge and skills, the result will exceed all expectations! If you yourself have enough knowledge in the field of engineering, mechanics and can handle everything, with friends the process will go much faster;

Make an algorithm and a work plan that you should strictly adhere to. And also create drawings and diagrams of the future electric car and prepare the necessary materials and tools;

• Remove from the car a gasoline engine and everything that does not belong in a car powered by electricity;

Install the electric motor and connect the gearbox to it. Prepare a place for the batteries, install the power sources in the back of the car and connect them. Create wiring and connect appliances and a voltmeter;

Connect emergency brakes, vacuum pump, converter, control element, etc. Power cables need to be laid under the bottom of the car, so make a few brackets first;

Create a power supply platform at the front of the machine. Install accumulators, fill in oil in transmission.

Check instruments: 12 volts at ignition, vacuum pump, converter at 96 volts. Check engine operation at 12 volts. If everything works - the car is a success!

Children's electric cars

You can create an electric machine for your own child with your own hands, but is it really necessary? There are many battery-operated children's cars on the market today. They are beautiful, bright, comfortable and practical to use.

It's up to you, of course. But buy Children electric car Much cheaper than making it.

Price

The picture of self-manufacturing an electric car will be incomplete without a description of the costs of its production. If we take into account the cost of all components of the future electric machine, then we get 5000-8000 dollars. But all this amount pays off when operating an electric car for 2 years.

Therefore, if you have the appropriate skills, capabilities and desire, you can try to make an electric car with your own hands. After all, this is the future of all vehicles.

conclusions

If you are tired of unstable fuel prices and expensive Maintenance auto, you can create an electric car with your own hands.

An electric car is a car powered by an electric motor that runs on batteries, unlike common gasoline cars. The movement of the machine is based on electricity. An essential advantage of such a car is that it can be charged from a standard voltage using a conventional outlet. In this way, you can save money, since electricity is much cheaper than fuel today. Servicing an electric car is simple, since you do not need to monitor the level of oil and antifreeze and replace them periodically.

On such a car it is very convenient to move around the city. The constant change of terrain increases fuel consumption, and the intermittent movement does not affect the electric car at all.

The electric car gradually starts moving and is silent due to the small number of elements that move. Such a machine does not pollute the atmosphere with the products of fuel combustion. This is the vehicle of the future!

Let's remember the story:

Late XIX and early XX centuries - the first self-propelled carriages with steam engines internal combustion and (well, come on) electric! By the way, it was the electric car that was the first to overcome the speed limit of 100 km / h. However, then cars developed faster and by the beginning of the 30s, electric cars were forgotten.

Let's look at today. Since 1988, Toyota has been producing an electric car (Prius model). The bottom line is this: You sit down in the car, turn the key, move the control lever to the "Drive" position and immediately (!) Start moving. What you are driving, you don't know. Usually small trips take place on electric traction. When the car "understands" that the batteries are dead, it starts the gasoline engine and charges the battery. An emergency is also provided - if the batteries are dead, there is no gasoline - you pull the red handle in the trunk and (oh, miracle!) The batteries are charged, you can go.

A similar situation was described to me at NAMI, where they have been studying such a hybrid mobile for 4 years. came across this model and on secondary market auto (approximately $8.5 thousand for 98? 99g.v.). GM has similar developments, and Europe has a lot of small (1-2 seater) electric hybrid vehicles used in green areas or, simply, on golf courses.

Let's get back to the dominant personality trait of the site's author - the desire to save money.

Paying $ 8.5 thousand for a right-handed Japanese miracle - the hand does not rise, and the wallet does not allow, but how much time, effort and money it will cost to assemble an electric vehicle on your own in the simplest version:

Estimate: 1. Body (on bridges, plastic, self-made, with documents) - $ 1000. - pay attention to the weight of the structure. Mine without engine and battery weighs 350kg. It is important. - A homemade plastic car is not as rare as it might seem at the beginning. Most recently - in early August, in the newspaper "From hand to hand" in the "other" section, it was for sale. Who seeks will always find! (In the end - stick together).

2. Salon. Two front seats from a Porsche 924, cushion rear seat from Toyota Supra, 4m2 of carpet from the store and all this passed through a workshop for sewing covers (all seats are used) - $ 400. - Your imagination can be unlimited: the country has a lot of precious woods, fine leathers and very expensive acoustic fabrics.

3. Power unit (used). Engine from a decommissioned and almost completely ruined Bulgarian loader (3.6 kW, 84 V, 1400 rpm, 24 Nm) - $ 200. - Would rather use a 10kW, 120V motor - $650 - brand new, under warranty. (any office supplying spare parts for forklifts).

4.battery. Seven pieces (12 V? 200 Ah), starter, Italian. In a wholesale company - 2600 rubles / piece, in a store - 4000 rubles / piece. - Do not try to use domestic batteries - you will only get the nominal capacity the first few times (lead for batteries should be from fresh ore, and not from remelted old batteries, and there are no lead ores in our country, at least for battery manufacturers). - Ideally, you need to use traction batteries for loaders, but the price is 3 times higher! Why for a car a battery costs $80, and for a loader (of equal capacity) - $250, guess for yourself (not difficult).

5. Miscellaneous. The wheels are smaller in width (rolling friction must be reduced to min), however, its standard load capacity is indicated on the wheel, calculate, choose with a small margin. The engine control unit. Options: 1) From a new loader, relay, 6 speeds - $ 400. 2) Thyristor with smooth regulation - $ 1100. 3) A huge rheostat - at the grandfathers on the Mitinsky radio rink (you will be the only one who needs it) - several bottles of universal currency.

5) Personally, with 110% assistance from friends of electronics engineers, I am trying to build the electronic unit management. Get it - I'll tell you.

A flange connecting the engine and transmission (in my case, the VAZ 2101 gearbox). Made in the right place - the company "Kardan-Balance" - $ 70. This thing is best done by professionals who know automotive specifics - they will tell you whether it is possible to get by with a rubber clutch or insert a cross or something else ...

Plan-washer - connection of the engine and gearbox. I managed to make it myself, but the consistency should be no worse than 0.2 mm, or you will get tired of changing the gearbox input shaft bearing and engine bearings.

Total: Approximately $3,000 spent.

300 hours of working time for one average qualified engineer. He is a welder, he is a mechanic, he is an electrician. For this money and time I have: A car weighing 850 kg (4 seats), battery 84 V x 200 Ah, Mileage 200 km. Speed: 60 - 75 km / h in a straight line, up to 90 km / h for a short time (for overtaking) or downhill. 35 km / h starts and accelerates to this speed uphill 12%.

Technical - Economic justification. The number of recharge cycles to full capacity with proper use is 800 times (for advanced Italian ones, for a reasonable price). 800 times x 200 km = 160,000 km. The cost of one charge, given to 1 km of travel.

(200 A x 84 V) / (1000 n) x C \u003d 25 rubles n - charge efficiency \u003d 60% (0.6) C - cost of 1 kWh (90 kopecks)

So: 12.5 kop/km. The cost of the battery, reduced to 1 km of track. (2600 rubles 7 pcs) / 160,000 km = 11.4 kopecks / km. Only 24 kop/km.

The prototype of the VAZ 2101 with a flow rate of 8 l / 100 km, AI 92 (10 rubles / l) 80 rubles / 100 km \u003d 80 kopecks / km.

Add here regular oil changes, filters, carburetor adjustment, ignition valves, overhaul. engine repair, finally ... How much did it turn out? 1.2 rubles/km and 24 kopecks/km.

5 (five) times cheaper, gentlemen! 5 times!!!

Any questions?

I foresee one question: "Where to put the saved money?"

Another progmotic question: what will the traffic police say?

Answer: I don't know yet. But there are electric cars in US, they drove on the roads. AZLK also has electric vehicles (2 models). VAZs somehow, about 20 years ago, rode around Moscow with batteries. UAZs for military hospitals existed with electric motors. And there was even an auto- (pardon) electric run. Now there is an electric ZIL truck with very good parameters. They were, they are, they drive ... What, in fact, is my car worse?

So, you have decided to build an electric car. We can congratulate you on this achievement.
But before choosing the units for the future e-mobile, it is necessary to clearly define the "technical design" of the e-mobile. This idea is formed from the following points:

-E-mobile body. Options:
- standard body from passenger car factory made. Pluses: the minimum number or complete absence of alterations in the "tin" direction; the standard view of the e-mobile and, accordingly, the minimum attention of the traffic police to your e-mobile; the possibility of building an e-mobile "by one person" in a short period of time. Cons: high probability of unsuccessful layout of units inside; heavier weight.
- homemade body. Pluses: an endless field for creativity in the appearance and layout of the e-mobile; less weight; the possibility of using composite materials and non-standard assemblies to improve the design and driving performance; an extraordinary view, different from the main stream of vehicles. Cons: advanced tools, in most cases not common even in advanced home workshops; increased labor intensity and requirements for the qualification of the master; increased attention of traffic police officers to the e-mobile and, accordingly, a lower probability of registering your e-mobile with the issuance of license plates.

- Power unit, Consists of a source of electricity with a consumption regulator, an electric motor and mechanical transmission.
- a source of electricity. Options:
-rechargeable batteries. Consideration should be given to the mode of operation intended for them, operating temperatures, capacity, cost, dimensions and weight.
- Supercapacitors (ionistors). The same requirements as for batteries.
- Generators. There are several types of power generators. The main difference between generators and other sources is the production of electricity by a method that includes mechanical energy conversion. At the moment, there are gasoline-diesel-gas (fuel) generators, thermal generators in combination with Peltier elements, molecular engines and many other types.
- Power consumption regulating devices. These can be understood as voltage regulators and converters, current regulators. The main required characteristics depend on the parameters of the electric motor and other consumers of electricity.
- Electric motors. The required characteristics for each case are extremely individual. The only thing that can be advised is to choose an engine more powerful than necessary (within reason: for an e-mobile weighing up to one ton, for confident acceleration using a gearbox and moving at a speed of up to 100 km/h, a sequential excitation electric motor with a power of around 7-8 kW is enough; for confident acceleration without gearbox - more than 12kW) To select an electric motor, it is necessary to take into account: the type of electric motor, operating voltage, power, current consumption, type of excitation, rated speed, torque, weight and dimensions.
There are the following types of electric motors:
- with parallel excitation.
- with sequential excitation.
- mixed excitement
- brushless brushless motors
- asynchronous, incl. with vector control.

Mechanical transmission. Basically, you can choose between a transmission with a gearbox and a transmission without a gearbox. The presence of a gearbox, of course, leads to inconvenience in driving an e-mobile and greater mechanical losses, but nevertheless it allows you to start off and move confidently in non-standard conditions (starting off and moving uphill, in deep snow and mud) to use a less powerful electric motor. About the increase / decrease in weight, nothing is deliberately given, because. powerful engine with a differential gearbox can weigh more than a less powerful one with a gearbox.
It is also worth taking note that the use of a powerful electric motor without a gearbox will require the electric motor to control torque, and not speed (as it seems at first). Such regulation can be: partially brushless motors and fully - asynchronous with vector control. The use of other types of electric motors without a gearbox can be advised for a very light e-mobile.

"12 commandments of the self-made motorist"

These 12 commandments were published in the 80s in the magazine "Modeler-Konstruktor". They were written by a self-made automaker with experience, who at one time made a sensation with his car design, as they said then "wagon layout" (now they have turned into "minivans") "Minimax" - P.S. Zach.
Some of the tips refer exclusively to building a car from scratch, some are somewhat outdated, but the general meaning of these "Commandments" is the best fit for a "first look" at building and 100% homemade and a kit car. The main thing at the first stage is not appearance, engine power or cross-country ability, the main thing is to evaluate yourself, are YOU capable of it ...

I. SUPER TASK - FIRST OF ALL!
Usually they start with the immediate goal: I want to make "like this" car! They don't think about their top priority. But sooner or later it will reveal itself, most often - halfway, when a lot has already been done ... The classification of "homemade" will help to understand oneself.
Simplifier Usually proceeds from a common misconception that it is cheaper to make than to buy. The sooner he realizes that this is really a delusion, the less money and effort he will spend in vain. A special category of simplistic people - more often unskilled - is trying to make a "real" car (that is, indistinguishable from an industrial one); the sooner they realize that neither by prettiness nor by consumer qualities you can’t beat a factory car, the cheaper this delusion will cost them.
Maximalist So you can call those who want to impress others without fail. Make it so that no one ... A prestigious car! So that either in form - supersport, or in content - computer-complex-automated. As a last resort, at least with retractable headlights, sliding windows, air conditioning and a stereo color music center!
Individual This is someone for whom industrially produced cars are not suitable, who needs a car. special purpose: all-terrain vehicle or amphibian, self-propelled cottage, city motorized carriage or jeep tractor.
The creator is the one who cannot help doing. He derives enormous satisfaction from the very process of creation. In the limit, even like this: I did it, but there’s no need to ride.

So who are you? Do not feel sorry for yourself in self-determination. This will help you save your labor and time.

II. PUZZLE!
Take courage and throw out on paper the main characteristics of your dream: purpose, capacity and carrying capacity, speed, engine type, layout, undercarriage, dimensions and weight. Put down the date and set aside in a short box. In a week, try to make the second option. Third... Seventh...

At the same time, it is recommended to “splash out” even if at first there is no feeling that you are ready for this. Even D. I. Mendeleev argued that any hypothesis is better than none. In the end, instead of the erroneous one, another, more correct one will appear. Over time, its fallacy will also manifest itself. This process is endless. But each new hypothesis, as a rule, is better than the previous one. And here we wish the developer common sense to stop in time, because the essence is not in constant search, but in the result.

III. DO NOT TAKE WHAT YOU CAN DO WITHOUT
To be honest, miracles fascinate everyone. But such fundamental qualities as cross-country ability, capacity or maneuverability, or secondary ones - for example, automatic control of the engine and gearbox, body heating or, say, ground clearance, can also become unusual.

Do not overload your project with an abundance of "tsatsok", the main concept of your car may disappear behind them. As soon as you feel signs of such danger, make a list of what you want to see in your creation. And then write out from there what you can’t do without. The result of this work should be a project of a vehicle containing the necessary complex of "miracles".

The rest is divided into two parts. Find the strength in yourself to forget most of it forever, leaving only what you can do later, in the second place, after the unit you created will go. The moving machine will pose new, as yet unknown problems. Taking them into account, you will compile in order a now more specific (in terms of their importance) list of improvements.

Generally speaking, everything is much more visible from the seat of the completed car!

IV. THINK AGAIN: IF YOU CAN NOT DO IT, DON'T DO IT!
Before taking on the direct work on the machine, it's time to re-evaluate whether your desire is worth the gigantic work that you doom yourself to. Moreover, consider how many unforeseen sorrows await you on the chosen path! Isn't it better to buy a ready-made car? If you just want to tinker with hardware, buy an old Moskvich or Zaporozhets. Well, if this is not so, then we sincerely wish you success and courage, for you are now joining the free brotherhood of self-made people.

V. DEVIL NOT MUCH AND NOT LITTLE, BUT AS NECESSARY!
One extreme among do-it-yourselfers (first of all, engineers of various specialties) are "draughtsmen". They draw general views, then - options, develop designs for almost all components and parts. As a rule, this is the fear of taking up a hacksaw and a drill, a hammer and a chisel.

The other extreme (usually humanitarians and drivers) are "pullers". They will put bridges - front and rear, put profiles-spars on them and begin to cook the crossbars. Then it turns out that the engine is not assembled there ... The "pullers" are not shy about redoing it several times. Having completed half of the work, they sometimes find themselves in front of an insoluble problem - the conceived machine does not work. It's even worse when you have to "dress" a ready-made undercarriage in a "ceremonial outer garment" - a body that is not made according to the "figure" ... It is unlikely that the traffic police will like such a car.

Acceptable, as usual, a reasonable middle. The layout on a scale of 1:5, a general view (in three projections), a blueprint (preferably in full size) and a three-dimensional model in the same scale - this is the first initial minimum. Moreover, the model is needed here to the same extent as the drawing. To be limited only by the general appearance (and layout) is imprudent.

When creating nodes, everything that can be done without drawings is best done in place, if necessary, cutting out templates from cardboard. If you can’t do without drawings of knots, do them 1:1. Keep in mind that the 1:2 scale is the most misleading, and get used to getting by with only two - 1:5 and 1:1. True, the general view can be drawn at 1:10, and even 1:20. It makes sense to prepare drawings for parts, if only they have to be ordered somewhere.

VI. AND THE HOME "AUTOZAVOD" NEED A DIRECTOR!
First of all, "production" needs to find a room for working on the machine: it should be separate and ... warm - it's not work in the cold either. Don't waste money on tools. The main machines of the "car factory" should be a workbench with a large vise and an electric drill. An electric abrasive cutter will also be a good help. Do not follow the example of those who, from building a car, switch to collecting all kinds of devices, creating a kind of tool museum ... "critical mass", and it is time to ruthlessly reduce it. But keep the current tool ready: this is not work when you need a chisel, but it is blunt, you take a drill, but it is chipped.

Basic materials - both profile and sheet - must be prepared in advance. You can, of course, allow yourself to interrupt work along the way in order to get some special material or fasteners, but it’s still better not to spend working time on this. It is necessary to appreciate the rhythm of work, not to be distracted by "plugging holes" because of organizational turmoil. If you work not alone, but in two or three, this is even more important, because preparation for work is more often done individually, and collective downtime is much more expensive.

VII. MODEL! LAYOUT!
The look of the car is great. And in general terms, it is not too easy to work it out. But your car will move next to "Sputnik" and "Tavria", which were worked on not only by designers, but also by designers. And at the same time they made dozens of models, including life-size ones! Therefore, it would be quite good to follow their example. When you have finished your model, look at it with a stern outsider's eye. Show knowledgeable people. Do the second option, maybe the third one. After all, the appearance, in essence, can be worked out only at this stage. Then it will be too late.

Then it is advisable to take on a life-size layout. You can insert ready-made components into it that you are going to use: chassis (suspensions - front and rear), engine with gearbox, steering, seat, windshield etc. The body is reproduced in wood and cardboard. Reiki imitate profiles, plywood and cardboard - cladding.

The layout is necessary to clarify the relative position of the nodes, the placement of the driver and passengers, checking the convenience of boarding and disembarking through the doors, approaches to servicing the engine and chassis. And in general, it allows you to visually feel your future creation.

Layout is a powerful tool in creating individual nodes. They are preliminarily reproduced in the form of profile templates, longitudinal and transverse. One, quite characteristic, for trying on may be enough.

VIII. FOUR PILLARS OF AUTO-DESIGN - DESIGN, TECHNOLOGY, READY ASSEMBLY, MATERIALS
When creating any node, you can, of course, proceed from purely constructive considerations: make it functional and durable, with minimal weight and dimensions. And for this design, select the appropriate technology and materials. However, the do-it-yourselfer, to an even greater extent than the designer of a car factory, needs to provide for the possibility of implementing his idea. After all, he is his own supply department, his own technologist, worker. Therefore, the criterion for the optimality of the design of the do-it-yourselfer is special.

Difficult-to-manufacture parts are not a sin to borrow. For example, springs or suspension springs. And they will immediately determine the design of the entire assembly. You can put at the head of optimization material that is available for any reason. For example, for a car frame, rectangular tubes are very advantageous.

The “four-pillar” stability of the do-it-yourselfer lies in the flexibility of using that “pillar” that facilitates the creation of this node, transferring the center of gravity of his work to the strongest (in solving this problem) support.

IX. WANTING IS NOT THE MATTER; TO BE ABLE - A QUARTER OF THE CASE; CAN IS HALF THE MATTER... BUT THE MAIN THING IS TO HAVE THE TALENT OF THE "FINISHER"
Even the most powerful desire is no stronger than ineptitude. But if there are no plumbing skills? There are two ways: simpler - to assemble a company in which specialists would complement each other. And harder, but giving you independence - to gain qualifications, which is also better to do under someone else's guidance or in a company.

There is another factor, no less important. This is consistency, character, will, forcing you to make an effort on yourself when fatigue, physical and moral, overcomes you. How many weak-minded people gave up their work halfway... But what satisfaction does the overcoming of temporary weakness give! Having reached the goal, you will receive not only your direct result, but also feel the joy of victory over yourself, and this, perhaps, will become the main reward.

X. REMEMBER SAFETY AT WORK AND ON THE ROAD
In working on your creation, you will have to carry out a variety of technological operations. Some are not safe. At the factory there is a special safety service, and at the home "car factory" - only you yourself. A circular saw or an abrasive cutter can cut off a finger. Grinding machine - leave without an eye, heavy units - press down. What about fire hazard? All this is very serious.

No less serious are the safety elements necessary in the design of a homemade product in case of a traffic accident. The placement of the gas tank, the protection of the driver and passengers by the body structure from impact or when the car is turned over are issues of the so-called passive safety. But factors such as visibility, brakes, steering are also directly related to safety.

Given the vital importance of these questions, it is not enough to keep them in mind. Formulate your weak spots on the paper. Find the strength in yourself to beware in time if some requirements are not met, or even to abandon the scheme, layout or design solution that does not provide adequate security. In such a case, "maybe" can end badly.

XI. "EPOXY" RESPECT TO THE FEAR...
Not everyone knows that the production, where products are glued from fiberglass on epoxy resins, belongs to the category of especially harmful, and there is usually special supervision over compliance with safety regulations: production sites are equipped with forced exhaust ventilation, and automatic devices with recorders monitor the content in air of harmful and poisonous gases.

You cannot create such conditions at home, and many do not even suspect the danger of severe lung diseases, up to lung cancer.

At the same time, the mechanical properties of some similar materials - for example, polyester resins, are not much inferior to the insidious "epoxy". It is quite suitable, by the way, and varnish for parquet.

With fiberglass, you also need to be careful, because the smallest particles of its fibers are introduced into the skin of the hands and into the respiratory tract. Acceptable substitutes are cotton fabrics such as percale, tarpaulin, or reasonably strong synthetics.

XII. YOU SHOULD LOSE WEIGHT NOT ONLY FOR FASHION WOMEN!
Already in principle homemade car heavier than store bought. This inevitably manifests itself in the fact that load-bearing body too complex to calculate strength. In the automotive industry, the development of the optimal variant of the "strength-lightness" dilemma is carried out experimentally. A do-it-yourselfer can't do it. He has to either separate the functions of the body and frame (which leads to almost doubling the mass of this complex), or deliberately overweight the body. For this reason, a home-made car will be 20-30% heavier than a similar industrial design. However, practice shows that if you do not specifically monitor the weight of each part, then a home-made product turns out to be one and a half times (and sometimes even more!) Heavier than a factory-made machine of a similar class. And in this - and increased consumption fuel, and worst dynamics, and lower load capacity, and...

electrical machines called electromechanical converters, in which electrical energy is converted into mechanical or mechanical - into electrical energy. Depending on the type of current given or consumed, electrical machines are divided into AC and DC machines, which can be used as motors, generators, or combinations thereof.

According to the principles of creating torque, electrical machines are divided into synchronous, asynchronous and direct current.

In synchronous machines, the rotational speed of the shaft is synchronized with the rotational speed of the electromagnetic field that creates the torque. In a synchronous machine, the excitation field is created by a winding located on the rotor and powered by direct current. The stator winding is connected to the AC mains. The inverted circuit, when the excitation winding is located on the stator, is rare. In a synchronous machine, the winding in which the EMF is induced and the load current flows is called the armature winding, and the part of the machine with this winding is called the armature. The part of the machine on which the excitation winding is located is called the inductor. Synchronous machines are used as generators and motors.

The condition for the operation of an asynchronous machine is the inequality of the frequencies of rotation of the electromagnetic field of the stator and rotor, which actually creates the forces that set the electrical machines in motion. In an asynchronous machine, the field is created in the stator winding and interacts with the current induced in the rotor winding. Among asynchronous machines, single-phase low-power motors are collectors. Asynchronous machines are mainly used as motors.

The main feature of the DC machine is the presence of a collector and a sliding contact between the armature winding and the external electrical circuit. A DC machine in its design is similar to an inverted synchronous machine, in which the armature winding is located on the rotor, and the excitation winding is on the stator. Due to their good regulating properties, DC motors are widely used in industry. They can work as both generators and engines.

Classification of electrical machines

by power

High power machines:

collector machines with a capacity of more than 200 kW;

synchronous generators with a power of more than 100 kW;

synchronous motors with a power of more than 200 kW;

asynchronous motors with a power of more than 100 kW at a voltage of more than 1000 V.

Medium power machines:

collector machines with a capacity of 1 ... 200 kW;

synchronous generators with power up to 100 kW, including high-speed generators with power up to 200 kW;

asynchronous motors with a power of 1 ... 200 kW;

asynchronous machines with a power of 1 ... 400 kW at voltages up to 1000 V, including single-series motors from 0.25 kW.

The group of low power machines includes electrical machines that are not included in the first two groups:

DC motors are collector and universal;

asynchronous motors, synchronous motors, etc.

Basic concepts

Efficiency factor (COP) - the ratio of useful (output) power and spent (input):

for generators - the ratio of active electrical power supplied to the network to the consumed mechanical power;

for electric motors - the ratio of useful mechanical power on the shaft, kW, to the active input electrical power, kW.

Power factor (cos j) for AC machines:

for generators - the ratio of the output active electric power, kW, to the total output electric power, kV×A;

for electric motors - the ratio of the active consumed electric power, kW, to the total consumed electric power, kV × A;

Starting current (initial start) - the steady current consumed by the motor with a stationary rotor and power supply from the mains with a rated voltage and frequency (Iп - starting current).

The multiplicity of the initial starting current is the ratio of the initial starting current to the rated current.

Rated torque - the torque on the motor shaft corresponding to the rated power and rated speed.

Initial starting torque - the torque developed by the motor with a stationary rotor and an initial starting current.

Minimum torque - the smallest value of the torque developed by the motor at rated voltage and mains frequency in the range of speed changes from zero to the value corresponding to the maximum torque.

Maximum torque - the highest value of the torque developed by the motor at rated voltage and mains frequency.

Relative on-time (PV) - the ratio of the duration of the engine under load, including start-up, to the duration of the working cycle, expressed as a percentage.

Design

Design - arrangement method constituent parts machine with respect to the fastening elements of the bearings and the end of the shaft.

General purpose engine - an engine that meets the technical requirements common to most applications, and is made without taking into account the special requirements of the consumer.

The main version of the engines is the version that meets the general technical requirements for operating properties, operating conditions and application. The basic version is the basis for the development of modifications and specialized versions.

Modification - an engine version based on the basic version, which has the same height of the axis of rotation, but differs in operating properties (mechanical characteristics, speed control range, etc.).

Specialized version - a version that meets the increased requirements of the consumer in relation to the conditions of use. Specialized designs differ in terms of environmental conditions and in terms of the accuracy of the installation and connecting dimensions.

Highly specialized version - a version designed to work in a highly specialized area.

The problem of creating alternative transport in Ukraine is solved not only by scientists (hybrid "Sobol", "AC" No. 7'2009). The self-made electric car "Electra-2", the creation of the Kiev master Mikhalych, was created in an ordinary garage cooperative, where we met her.

The problem of creating alternative transport in Ukraine is solved not only by scientists (hybrid "Sobol", "AC" No. 7'2009). Homemade electric car"Electra-2", the creation of the Kiev master Mikhalych, was created in an ordinary garage cooperative, where we met her.

An attentive reader will ask why Elektra-2? The first creation of Valentin Mikhailovich Gerbstein (in the circle of colleagues - Mikhalych) appeared in 1992. It was a two-seater convertible with a capped roof, assembled on a welded frame and sheathed with sheet iron. A home-made electric car at a speed of 30-35 km / h could travel up to 100 km and easily developed its maximum 60 km / h.

But progress does not stand still and the desire to create from an enthusiastic craftsman, despite a 15-year break, has not disappeared. And although work on Elektra-2 has not yet been completed, we managed to ride with a breeze on a silent electric car.

The steering mechanism from the SZD motorized stroller is rack and pinion. It is lighter and more compact than a worm gear, has a smaller gear ratio and is therefore more convenient for a high-speed car.
electric car from Volyn.

With the world on a string ...

The frame of a homemade electric car is welded from rectangular pipes and sheathed with stainless steel sheets. The choice of material for sheathing is not accidental. Stainless steel, although more expensive than ordinary steel, is stronger, moreover, it is not afraid of corrosion and is better connected by spot electric welding. The thickness of the skin along the sides and at the bottom is 0.8 mm, in some unloaded areas - 0.5 mm.

The front axle, together with the steering mechanism, was borrowed from the FDD motorized stroller, better known to the people as the "invalid". This choice is due to its lightness, and in terms of strength, it can give odds to many modern ones.

IN rear axle assembled units from ZAZ-968 and LuAZ-969. Levers rear suspension taken from the "Zaporozhets". For parallel suspension travel, they had to be slightly redone. And in order not to rust, Mikhalych scalded them with a continuous seam, pouring a glass of nigrol inside.

Luazovskie hubs and axle shafts. The main gear (also from Volyn) is connected to the electric motor through a cardan and a clutch. And the possibility of locking the differential improves the vehicle's patency. As they say, with the world on a string ... and the chassis is ready.

Despite the fact that all body work is carried out using a gas burner, spot welding and hand tools (hammer, scissors), the stainless shell turned out to be quite neat and symmetrical.

Homemade electric car and its filling

As power unit a 15-kilowatt Advanced electric motor with a peak power of 60 kW was taken. It is controlled by a Curtis pulse-width modulator (PWM, an electrical circuit based on electronic keys designed to optimize the process of transferring power from a battery to an electric motor) Curtis. These components, together with the Zivan "charger" (3 kW), are included in the so-called conversion kit for conveyor vehicles to electric vehicles, which has been successfully sold in the US and Europe for several years.

The role of the battery is performed by 10 Trojan Minn Kota traction lead batteries (130 a / h each), which are quite neatly placed in the luggage and engine compartments of the cabriolet.

In city driving, the battery charge is enough for 100 km of run, and the maximum speed of the electric car is 150 km/h.

To extend the life of the batteries, the author of the project changed the classic way of connecting the battery to the electric motor. Two sections (each with 5 batteries) are connected in parallel - a voltage of 60 V is supplied to the controller during acceleration and driving. For high speeds and loads, the battery is switched to 120 volts by a toggle switch on the instrument panel (series connection of sections). Such a complication made it possible to save it from impulse high-frequency loads harmful to the service life, replacing them with an almost constant discharge current.

Homemade electric car: electric brake

And, of course, recovery. An electric car without the ability to charge the battery while braking is considered defective. But, according to the designer himself, the amount of energy returned as a result of recuperation to the battery is scanty compared to the amount spent on movement. The role of the electric brake (albeit ineffective) in Elektra-2 is played by a generator from Lada 110, which is installed directly on the traction motor and is connected to it by standard pulleys.

Test drive of a homemade electric car

In theory, when driving at speeds up to 60 km / h, the battery charge is enough for 100 km of run. You can also go faster (the maximum speed of Elektra-2 is 150 km/h), but by reducing the mileage. The battery is charged from a household outlet, it takes about six hours to fully charge, or three hryvnias, if taken in monetary terms.

The interior of the silver handsome was not as impressive as his appearance (old shabby seats, wiring hanging from all sides), although the instruments were installed quite conveniently. Visibility is quite acceptable. There is no ignition key, one click of the toggle switch and control lamp on the instrument panel gives the go-ahead for movement. You don’t need to make special efforts: pedal - gas, pedal - brake and turn the steering wheel. Reverse- please, for this, a reverse lever is located in the usual place for the gearshift lever.

Homemade electric car- the car is obedient and completely silent, except for the slight knock of the still unfinished roof. It was not possible to get a jerk from a standstill, although the dynamics of acceleration is quite acceptable and is very felt when working with the accelerator pedal. The reason for such humility is the energy-saving settings of the controller, which, during acceleration, supplies a low (up to 50 V) voltage to the electric motor.

As for 150 km/h, we were not able to actually confirm the maximum speed of Elektra-2 declared by the author (due to road and weather conditions). Although, judging by the dynamics, which, when driving over 60 km / h, did not decrease, but only increased, the ability of this electric car to drive fast is beyond doubt. It will be possible to say for sure in the summer, when the electric car will be ready and will be registered with the MREO.

Project author

When asked why I created a home-made electric car "Electra-2", I have several answers. Firstly, I want to show the public that an electric car today can become vehicle for city driving. Secondly, to demonstrate to the heads of enterprises what exactly needs to be produced, what will be in demand, and not lie in warehouses. And thirdly, to prove to their own and other people's sons that technical creativity can be more exciting than computer games. Unfortunately, any undertaking is futile if it does not have the support of the state, officials and the media.

Vladislav Osadchy
Photo by Andrey Yatsulyak

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Do-it-yourself electric car in THREE DAYS! Video step-by-step instruction creating a homemade electric car!

A team of enthusiasts from Australia set the task of converting an ordinary car into an electric car. The task seems to be not difficult (when you know how), but the deadlines are amazing ...

The first day

It usually takes 6 to 12 months to convert a car into an electric car. We set out to do it in a week. I wish there were more electric vehicles on the roads, but to do so, we need to find ways to reduce the time and cost of rework. In the future, it would be nice to see auto services for converting conventional cars into electric ones.

I worked on the project with my friend Michael from Geelong, Victoria. We decided to convert it to a Daihatsu Charade (same model as mine) with an inexpensive Chinese made conversion parts package.

Over the past few months, we have been preparing for the project, purchasing necessary spare parts, and manufacturing missing components (such as a clutch and an adapter for connecting the electric motor to the gearbox). By setting up a permanent rework facility, these things can be automated. For example, the gearbox adapter has already been converted to CAD format, so the production of these parts using laser cutting can be arranged. We have also prepared a detailed work plan and estimate, which will be published to help other enthusiasts.

I also invited many people who are interested in electric vehicles to take part in our conversion project. Many agreed to come and yesterday we had about 10 people with whom we did much more work than planned. Everyone was very organized and engaged in the project on their own, and the skills of some were simply amazing. We had mechanics, engineers, painters, video and photo operators, electricians, and my wife Rodemary cooked food for everyone!

On the first day, we removed the internal combustion engine and all systems associated with it, such as exhaust and fuel, from the car. We also installed an electric motor and a gearbox connected to each other. They also mounted the engine mount to the car body and began to make a platform for installing batteries. By my calculations and with the help of such a wonderful team, we did the job for which 3 days were allotted.

Teamwork was excellent, many of those who helped us took a day off from work and got a lot of positive emotions. Teamwork to create an electric car is cool!

Video - day one:

Second day

Saturday morning, just woke up after a very long day on Friday. 6 more people spent the night with us under the same roof:

We finished installing the battery pack in the back of the car and even wired them together. The back of the car looks like a finished product, which is good news!
A more complex frame for the batteries in the front is almost ready (there will be more welding work inside the compartment to level the pallet). Today we will install the pallet, clean and paint.
Made wiring for instruments and installed a voltmeter. Thanks Joel!
The engine and transmission are installed, fixed and checked. Michael, John and team - great job!
Erick installed the vacuum pump, it remains to connect it.
Staples for wiring cables under the bottom of the car are installed, it remains to finish the wiring.

Today we are going to install DC converter, vacuum pump switch, battery charger, emergency brake and control box. Then we'll connect it all.

The progress of the second day was less noticeable, because. basically it was the “finishing” of the first day, wiring and installation of small equipment inside the car. Visually, this is not as impressive as the dismantling of the internal combustion engine and the installation of an electric motor with a box.

Be that as it may, these steps can take several months for lone designers.

If we compare this project to the project of my first electric car, then the same amount was done in the first day as I did in the first 6 months! On the second day we did the work of the next 5 months of my independent work. Now we are at the stage of completing the wiring - I was at this stage 3 days before the test drive. Today I hope we will take this baby for a walk!

I originally planned to finish the project in a week and was a little nervous about how many people showed up to help. I thought all this would distract me from the conversion work itself. Despite this, the exact opposite happened - thanks to all these people, we have done so much. I don't think it would have been possible if only Mike and I were working. It can be concluded that the work on the manufacture of some parts takes a lot of time. For the next project, it will be necessary to develop a work plan to accelerate such work. For example, make a template for making pallets for batteries.

Video - day two

Day three

After a long day at work, by 11 pm we left for the first test drive in Michael's new electric car. Just 3 days after the start of work!

Yesterday, I spent almost the whole day dealing with connecting the tubes of the electric pump, and for this it was necessary to make several adapters. We also made the wiring of power cables under the bottom of the car. Andrew did a great job hooking up all 12 volts and 96 volts. The controller board that came with the Chinese kit fell into place perfectly and we quickly connected it.

We cleaned and painted the front battery tray in the morning and installed it after lunch. All metal work is excellent. And the painting was done very professionally, so everything looks just great!

Many people helped us that day. At some stage, one group did the wiring under the car, another poured oil into the transmission, and the third made the missing parts.

By the evening we were so close to completion that everyone picked up the pace. Finally completed all the connections under the hood and installed all the electrics. The first thing we did was check all the 12 volt appliances to make sure everything worked with the "ignition" on, after that we connected the 96 volt power supply and checked the vacuum pump brake system and DC converter. After a little tweaking of the vacuum pump switch, the brakes worked as they should. After that we connected the converter to the 12 V system, it worked perfectly.

As a result, we connected the last motor cable and started the motor. Luckily he was turning the wheels in the right direction on the stand. Despite the heavy rain, we couldn't resist the first ride. First we did a few laps around the building - everything works great, despite the increased weight, thanks to Mike's new suspension. The engine is very quiet and you can change gears very quickly without the clutch. Everyone was very pleased with the first test drive.

There were still a couple of minor problems such as a small oil leak from the transmission, and also the acceleration of the car seemed weak (peak current was less than 100A) most likely due to some kind of wiring error. On Sunday we rest and on Monday I think we will solve these problems. There will also be cleaning and cosmetic work before passing the official inspection of the car.

As a result, we got a great project that was completed much faster than planned.

Creating an electric car is a great alternative to a car with gasoline engine. Modern technologies allow finding new ways to solve the problems associated with the cost of automotive fuel.

Having spent money only on the components of the future electric car, you can save on fuel in the future.

In addition, electric motors are environmentally friendly, unlike conventional engines which release carbon dioxide when refining gasoline.

It should be noted that almost every car company produces electric cars or hybrid cars. For example, from the company of the same name.

But the price of such environmentally friendly vehicles is still inaccessible to many motorists, so the issue of creating an electric car with your own hands, especially for the CIS countries, is still very relevant.

We create an electric car

To create an electric car with your own hands, you need to purchase:

1. Base car model;
2. Electrical engine;
3. Batteries, cases for them and charging;
4. Electric gas pedal, as well as a voltage regulator and synchronizers.

Base car model

Under the base model of the car is meant any car that will be taken as the basis for the manufacture of electric vehicles.

Since any electric car is based on its lightness, which is directly proportional to the dimensions, the material from which it is made, it is advisable to take small cars as a basis.

Agree, it will be difficult from Toyota Land cruiser Prado to make an electric car.

Good for such purposes domestic VAZ-s, the famous Cossacks, Slavuta, OKA.

From foreign Fiat 126 and other small cars until 2000 of release.

You can make your own original body, but the complexity of the work and their high cost repel many from this idea.

electric motor

The electric motor is selected depending on the size of the car and the way it is connected in the car.

If you connect it to the gearbox, then the electric motor, even with a small power (5 - 7 K Watts), will be able to move the car.

When connecting through the drive axle, you will need a more powerful electric motor. And the higher overall weight machine, the greater the power should be the future motor.

An electric motor with a minimum power installed on a machine of small dimensions has a speed limit of 75-80 km / h (subject to the direct connection of the motor to the gearbox).

By purchasing an electric motor with more power, you do not need to worry about additional energy costs. These costs do not depend on the distance traveled and the power of the electric motor.

Battery

When choosing a battery, it is better to focus on energy carriers with lithium.

They can be used without recharging for 5 hours of continuous driving on top speed at 80 km/h.

The total service life of such batteries reaches an average of 5 years. Lithium energy carriers are an expensive option.

As a less expensive alternative, lead-acid batteries can be chosen. Such energy carriers have a shorter service life (on average 1-2 years) and are discharged after an hour of heavy traffic.

In order for the batteries not to wear out so quickly, it is necessary to select them correctly in the appropriate volume.

Small-sized energy carriers fail earlier, as they wear out a lot, being completely discharged in the process of movement. Therefore, it is better to purchase one large battery with an increased resource.

Heating system

If the owner of an electric car expects to use it in the cold season, it is necessary to think over the heating system.

Heating a car with the help of engine electricity is a very costly business. In this case, the battery charge will not be enough even for one trip.

Therefore, it is better to install a gasoline heater or a system for heating seats. For the rest of the electrical equipment in the cabin, it is better to purchase a separate energy carrier.

power regulator

A very important part in an electric car is the power regulator, which is necessary to regulate the thrust of the electric motor.

American-made regulators are considered the most reliable. Due to limited finances, you can purchase its Chinese counterpart.

Regulators are selected depending on the power of the current. For daily commuting, a standard 150 volt regulator will suffice.

Also, in the electric car, in place of the removed generator, you need to mount a converter that performs similar functions.

Electric cars for children

Of course, you can make an electric car for your child, but is the game worth the candle? After all, now they are already sold in full