The technical condition of the chassis affects the comfort of the trip and, most importantly, the safety of passengers, the driver and other road users. Hub front wheel- the most important element of the suspension, on which the handling and braking distances car. If the wheel bearing fails and jams, the car will suddenly change course, which will provoke an accident. If parts break, the wheel can simply fall off.
Therefore, it is necessary to regularly monitor the technical condition of this unit and carry out its maintenance and repair. To do this, you need to know the design of the hub and the signs by which you can identify the malfunction at an early stage.
Purpose
The front wheel hub performs three important functions:
- Ensuring a movable and reliable connection of the axle shaft with the rim.
- Hold the brake disc or drum to ensure effective braking of the vehicle.
- Transfer of torque from the CV joint (constant velocity joint) to the drive wheel (relevant for all-wheel drive and front-wheel drive vehicles). To do this, splines are applied on the inner surface of the hub, which enter the axle shaft. That is, the front wheel hubs act as parts of the transmission and allow the vehicle to move.
IN modern cars, stuffed with electronics, sensors are installed in the hubs that ensure the operation of anti-slip, anti-lock and other systems that need to control the rotation of the wheels and the behavior of the car on the road.
Device
With such high functionality, the front wheel hub has a very simple device. It consists of four main parts:
- Hub body. This is a round monolithic part that has been turned. It is made of a hard high-strength alloy capable of withstanding high dynamic and static loads.
- Wheel studs are used to fasten rim. often instead of them there are threaded holes for mounting bolts.
- Bearings that are put on the axial shaft and ensure the rotation of the hub.
- Motion sensors connected to on-board computer or control unit braking system(optional).
Most manufacturers provide for the replacement of all hub parts in the kit (often this also applies to sensors). This was done in order to ensure safety and negate the slightest chance of a critical unit breaking down while driving.
Causes of breakage of hub parts
The most unreliable part that is subject to wear and tear is the hub bearing. It is the only moving part whose wear resistance is ensured by the high quality of the material and lubrication. Thanks to this, in normal operation, it serves up to the mark of 100 thousand kilometers or more.
Given the condition of our roads, this service life can be drastically reduced. This happens for the following reasons:
- Impacts due to the wheel getting into the pits at high speed. The resulting dynamic loads first of all act on the bearings and only after them on the rest of the suspension parts.
- Loss or contamination of lubricant. If the anthers are damaged, the grease from the inside of the bearing is washed out, and the part becomes clogged with dirt and requires urgent replacement.
- Incorrect tightening when replacing or servicing. An overtightened bearing will overheat and fail. A weak tightening torque causes backlash and intensive wear of the part.
- Errors when pressing the bearing during replacement. Misalignment and damage greatly reduce the life of the part. Therefore, you need to trust the replacement only to experienced locksmiths with a good reputation.
Breakage (deformation) of the hub itself can occur only as a result of strong impacts on the edges of road pits or an accident.
To extend the life of the node, you need to monitor the condition of the anthers and drive carefully, avoiding holes and slowing down in front of them.
Signs of a bad front wheel hub
The main sign of problems with a wheel bearing is the appearance of a characteristic crunch or hum during movement. vehicle. At big backlash the picture may be complemented by a knock when turning the steering wheel.
Wheel bearing wear or deformation of the hub body leads to the appearance of vibration, which is given to the steering wheel or car body.
Wedging of one of the bearings leads to the removal of the car from the path. In this case, you need to change the part immediately to avoid a serious accident. Wedging and overtightening can be identified by intense heating of the wheel.
One more possible sign problems: uneven or intense wear of rubber.
Important: the above symptoms do not necessarily occur precisely due to a malfunction of the hub. However, they are a mandatory reason to check this detail.
To make sure the bearing is in good condition, you should do the following operations:
- put the car on the "handbrake";
- jack up the front wheel and shake in a vertical plane;
- spin the wheel by hand.
If there is play, knocking or noise, the wheel bearing must be replaced. Pay attention to the nature of the play or knock. If they disappear when the brake is pressed - the reason is in the bearing, otherwise - in the ball bearings or steering rods.
Wheel bearing adjustment
To carry out the work you will need:
- jack;
- balloon key;
- torque wrench;
- strong screwdriver;
- chisel;
- hammer;
- a set of socket wrenches, including large ones (for 32 or more).
To adjust the wheel bearing, follow these steps:
- jack up the wheel;
- unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the wheel;
- remove the protective cap of the bearing assembly using a chisel with a hammer;
- put the wheel in place, securing it with two bolts;
- straighten the shoulder of the hub nut and unscrew it with a socket wrench (usually 27);
- replace the nut with a new one and tighten with a force of 20 N * m (a more accurate figure can be found in the repair instructions for a specific car model);
Tip: While tightening the nut, you need to slightly rotate the wheel in the direction of the car to calibrate the bearing.
The hub bearing is the main element of the wheel. It is he who allows the wheel to turn. It has very high loads and, like any part, it fails. This is a "survivable" element of the car, but it also has a resource.
Signs of a malfunction of the front hub bearing VAZ 2109
- The sound is similar to a crunch when moving in a straight line. It will be heard both on the street and in the cabin.
- Vibration on the steering wheel. This symptom appears when the bearing is heavily worn. There is a very high probability of a wheel wedge, which can lead to an accident.
- The car pulls to the side. The bearing rattles the wheel
- If there is a backlash when the wheel is swinging by hand. Clicks will also be heard.
Replacing the front hub bearing VAZ 2109 2110, with these symptoms, is inevitable.
Front wheel bearing video
1. Remove the hub cap.
2. Using a chisel, straighten the dented collar of the bearing nut in two places.
3. Apply the handbrake, engage 1st gear and chock the wheels.
4. Loosen the bearing nut with a socket or a 30" bent wrench. It is tightened very tightly, so the head or key must be strong so as not to bend or break. Use a long lever to loosen the nut (piece of pipe).
5. Loosen the wheel bolts.
6. Raise the front wheels, in which case the anti-roll bar will not interfere with the repair. It is also possible to lift only the wheel on which the repair will be carried out. In this case, to wring out the suspension elements, use a pry bar. Place a safety support under the car next to the jacks (stump or something similar). During the repair, sometimes considerable efforts will be made, and if the jack breaks, the support will hold the car.
7. Remove the wheel, brake shoe guide with caliper and brake disc.
8. Tie the brake pad guide together with the caliper so that they do not hang on the brake hose and damage it.
9. Turn away finally a bearing nut and remove a washer.
10. Insert bolts about 135mm long and threaded M12 x1.25mm into two diametrically opposite holes in the brake disc. Suitable mounting bolts, heads that are on the "classic" (2106, 2107, etc.)
11. Return these bolts to the holes of the hub (opposite each other) to its full thickness
12. Sharply driving the brake disc over the bolts, as if on guides, hit them on the bolt heads and thereby you will remove the hub. 
13. Turn away bolts of fastening of a spherical support to a rotary fist (Replacement of a spherical) and remove the CV joint (grenade) from an opening of the bearing. 
14. Use pliers to remove the retaining ring. 
15. With a puller, press the bearing into the cup, which is outside knuckle, while the bolt presses on the inner ring of the bearing through the washer from the inside of the fist. 
Puller with bearing
16. If there is no puller, then you can remove the bearing cage from the hub (see from item 17) (although this is also not so simple, but without a puller, but of a different type, even more difficult) and inserting it into the hole where the bearing is located, narrow part hitting something metallic.
17. As a rule, after the hub is pressed out, the bearing ring (cage) usually remains on it. You will need a puller to remove it. If not, then pry with a screwdriver and remove the dirt ring ... 
18 ... with a chisel, slide the bearing ring.
19. When you remove the ring, clean the burrs from the chisel with a needle file.
20. Install the dirt ring and screw it onto the hub.
21. Clear, grease an internal surface of a rotary fist.
22. Using a puller, press the new bearing into the steering knuckle. In this case, the large washer of the puller should rest on the inside of the steering knuckle so as not to damage its dirt protection rings, and when pressing in, the new bearing can be pressed through the old bearing, which will transmit force only through the outer ring.
Install retaining ring.
23. Using a puller, press the hub into the bearing, pre-lubricate the hole with oil or WD-40. Now the puller washers rest against the inner ring of the bearing and the hub.
If there is no puller, then hammer in the hub a little and bring out the end of the CV joint so that the hub nut can be screwed on. By turning the nut, you will attract the hub with the CV joint, like a puller. Hold the bearing with inside swivel fist.
Tighten the hub nut until the end only when the wheel is already on the ground. Don't forget to bend the collar over the nut. Replacing the front hub bearing VAZ 2109 2110 is over
If the vehicle is experiencing problems with undercarriage, this is an occasion to take urgent measures to eliminate the malfunction. Suspension failure can lead to unpredictable consequences, up to an accident. In this sense, the front hub is a very important node in the car that requires special attention.
Breakdowns in the chassis of the car, the device and fastening of the hub
Experienced motorists can easily diagnose malfunctions of the chassis of the car. These include:
- swaying of the body while making a turn or when braking;
- uneven abrasion of the surface of the tires;
- easy compressibility of shock absorbers or their flow;
- constant deviation of the car away from the rectilinear movement;
- increased vibration;
- extraneous sounds while driving.
The most common causes of these phenomena are unacceptable wear of suspension parts, poor mounting of shock absorbers, and incorrect alignment. Breakage of hinges and deformation of at least one lever can also cause trouble. The front wheel hub of the VAZ 2110 is most susceptible to failure in front-wheel drive vehicles, to which this model belongs.
Most vehicles with front-wheel drive, have an independent telescopic front suspension, hydraulic shock absorbers with springs. Stabilizers are located on the lower transverse levers. The hub itself is attached to lower arm through the ball joint with a nut and to the shock absorber with bolts. Through the steering knuckle, it communicates with the steering rod.
The part is cast from strong steel, and inside it is a bearing, which is the most vulnerable element. Extraneous noise during movement speaks of its failure. A brake disc and a brake caliper with pads are also attached to the hub. Unlike the rear hub, the front one is more complicated, and therefore its repair requires more care and skill.
Mounting parts for repair and replacement
Replacing the front hub with sufficient skill is not difficult. To do this, you need to study its device and the sequence of work. Then you need to prepare the following tools:
- car jack;
- a set of different heads;
- wrenches on "17" and on "22";
- a special puller that removes the ball bearings;
- universal wrench for unscrewing the wheel.
For the safety of work, a rigid and reliable support is installed under the car, and the wheels are fixed with shoes to prevent rolling. The same measures involve the replacement of the rear hub. Removing the front hub VAZ 2110 is carried out in the following order.
- With a punch or screwdriver, the protective plastic cap is removed, covering the bearings in the center. If it is damaged, a new one will need to be installed.
- Using a chisel, the shoulder of the bearing nut is straightened.
- With the help of a hand brake and shoes, the car is fixed. You also need to turn on the first gear.
- The nut is loosened when using a strong head on "30".
- Wheel nuts loosen.
- Both front wheels are hung out using jacks or a lift, observing the safety measures described above. It is important to hang both wheels, otherwise transverse stabilizer will not allow the hub to be removed.
- We remove the wheel and the brake caliper, which is bolted to the back of the VAZ hub along with the pads, and remove it to the side so as not to damage the hose. In the presence of an anti-lock braking system, the ABS sensor is removed.
A malfunction of the undercarriage of a vehicle is always fraught with danger. A professional motorist knows that it is impossible to travel in such a car, and all measures should be taken to eliminate malfunctions.
This also applies to the front hub of the car, which plays a very important role in the design of the vehicle. On the VAZ 2110, the replacement of the front hub can be carried out due to the appearance loud noise or knocking while driving.
Also, in many cases, the failure of the hub is characterized by loosening the wheel, because of this, the car on the road can “jump”, move unevenly or lead to the side. When the first symptoms of a malfunction appear, the replacement of the front hub of the VAZ 2110 should be carried out immediately.
Hub replacement is a big deal
If no action is taken, then very sad consequences are possible, because a faulty hub cannot hold the bolts that fix the wheels of the car. Therefore, at high speed, the wheel can simply fly off.
Note. Replacing the hub on a VAZ 2110 is quite difficult. But, having patience and certain knowledge, this process does not imply anything terrible and impossible.
Removing the old hub
To perform the work, you will need the following tools:
- two wrenches "17";
- universal wrench designed to remove the wheel;
- set of heads;
- wrench "22";
- ball bearing puller;
- jack.
Starting work, first of all, a support is installed under the car. Also, shoes are installed under the wheels of the vehicle for stability.
So:
- First of all, it is removed.
Note. If the vehicle is equipped with an anti-lock braking system, the ABS sensor must be removed from the front wheel.
- Using a drift or screwdriver, the protective cap is removed, which is located in the center of the wheel hub.
Note. In cases where the protective cap is damaged, it must be replaced.
- Then, if there is a spring, it is removed from the hub axis.
- After that, the clamping bolt is loosened, which fixes the hub fastening nut from unscrewing, then the nut is unscrewed and removed from the hub axis. If there is a thrust washer, then it must also be removed.
- The front wheel hub is removed from the steering knuckle.
Note. In the event that the hub cannot be removed, you will have to use a puller.
- If the bearing inner ring remains on the steering knuckle, then it is removed from the hub axle using a puller, after which the hub sealing ring is removed.
- Check the condition of the steering knuckle. If necessary, it must be replaced.
Before installing a new spare part, several procedures will be required to ensure that the part lasts a long time.
For this:
- Remove the inner ring of the outer bearing from the hub.
- Then, the sealing ring is removed from the back of the hub and the inner ring of the inner one is removed.
- The hub is mounted on an appropriate mandrel and the inner ring of the outer bearing is knocked out with a drift and a hammer.
Note. Do not distort the ring while doing this, as the bearing housing in the hub can be damaged.
- After that, the hub is turned over and the outer ring of the inner bearing is knocked out.
Installing a new hub
So:
- Using sandpaper, the hub is cleaned of grease and dirt, the burrs on the hub are polished. The condition of the hub is checked for mechanical damage, cracks and wear.
If defects are found, then the hubs will have to be changed.
Note. In VAZ 2110 vehicles with an anti-lock braking system, the condition of the sensor gear rotor is checked.
- A new hub is taken. Before assembly, a thin layer of grease is applied to the outer ring of the bearing, as well as to the mating surface of the hub.
The raceways of the inner ring are also lubricated. - Then the new hub is installed on the mandrel.
- The outer ring of the inner bearing is installed in the hub. With the help of a tubular mandrel, which rests on the outer ring of the bearing and a press, the bearing ring is pressed into the hub until it stops.
Note. During the pressing process, the bearing ring should also not be warped.
- After that, the hub is turned over and in the same way the outer ring of the outer bearing is pressed into the hub.
- The inner race of the inner bearing is installed. The sealing ring is installed on the back of the hub with the working edges to the bearing. The bearings are filled with grease, which makes up two-thirds of the total grease, then the inner ring of the outer bearing is installed.
Only after the above procedures can the hub be installed in its rightful place:
- First, a thin layer of grease is applied to the back of the hub O-ring and the hub is installed onto the steering knuckle.
- A thrust washer is installed and a nut is screwed on, which fixes the hub.
- The hub fixing nut is screwed, the bearing inner rings are pressed onto the steering knuckle pin.
- After the hub is installed, the axial play of the hub bearing is adjusted.
- After the adjustment is completed, the clamping bolt is tightened, which fixes the fastening nut from unscrewing.
- Then a spring is installed on the pivot of the steering knuckle.
- A protective cap with grease is installed on the hub.
- After that, the brake disc is installed and, if there is an anti-lock system, the sensor is installed.
The process of replacing the front wheel hub does not take much time, does not require special experience. It is enough just to study the design of the hub, watch the corresponding video and photo materials, read the necessary manuals for its removal, replacement, installation, and you can do the procedure yourself.
Step by step instructions for self replacement will not only save money, but also protect the family budget from unforeseen expenses (after all, the price for services of this kind in auto repair shops is high).
So, today we’ll talk about replacing the front bearings on VAZ cars of the classic family, I’ll say right away that this is not difficult to do, any car owner can do it without using special tools.
Determining the worthlessness of the front wheel bearings is quite simple, the main signs of a malfunction are:
- Inability to adjust the axial clearance of the wheel, the nut is tightened, the wheel still wobbles
- The bearing buzzes, it usually manifests itself at certain speeds, then it can quiet down, and also change its intensity in turns
- Clicky turning of the wheel, you can check it by jacking up the car and twisting the wheel with your hand
- Also a variety of rattle, creak, squeal, etc.
To replace the front hub bearing of VAZ cars, you will need:
- New bearings, preferably not the cheapest
- Front hub oil seal
- Solidol
- Gasoline or thinner, washing brush
We start replacing the front hub bearing by removing the wheel and placing the car on a support, I always do this, I don’t like to leave the car on a jack, it’s too unstable.
Next, you need to unscrew the two fixing screws brake caliper, for this you need a ring wrench or a head for 17, if everything is done as it should be, then these screws are locked with a washer, it must first be bent. Now you need to carefully, without straining the brake hose too much, remove the caliper and put it on the lever.
If they interfere brake pads, then you need to push them apart with a screwdriver or similar object.
Next, remove the cap that covers the adjusting nut and front wheel bearings, in the photo above I have already removed it. Then, with a key of 27 (I don’t remember exactly), we unscrew the nut of the front hub, there are some nuances here:
These nuts have different threads on both sides, on the left wheel (near the driver's door) the thread is ordinary, on the right wheel the thread is left. It is also recommended that when removing the nut, replace it with a new one.
We unscrew the nut and remove the washer with a tooth that is under it.
Remove the nut, washer, outer bearing, then remove the brake disc itself. I took everything off and laid it out on the newspaper:
Here I want to note that I will only wash the hub and bearings, because after inspecting the need for replacement, I did not see or hear. If you change the bearing, then you only have to knock out the outer races of the bearings with the help of the adapter, you do not need to throw them far, since with their help we will forget the new races.
After removing the clips, it is necessary to thoroughly wash all the dirt and old grease from the inside of the hub. If this is not done, then the new bearings will not last long, it's no secret that sand is an excellent abrasive. I do not change the bearings, but I wash both the bearings themselves and the inner part of the hub with the outer races.
It is also necessary to wash the steering knuckle shaft, the one on which the bearings are put on with an inner cage.