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Do-it-yourself steering rack repair: eyes are afraid, but hands are doing it. Steering racks: malfunctions and restoration Steering rack in section

steering rack serves as the main control element of most modern passenger cars. With its help, the rotation of the steering wheel is converted into a rotation of the front wheels relative to the axis of the car. This unit is characterized by simplicity of design and a high margin of safety. Like all other vehicle components, the rail has to be serviced and repaired. Therefore, it will be useful for car owners to know its structure and principle of operation.

How is the steering rack

Designs differ depending on the type of assembly and vehicle model. Only the list of main details remains unchanged:

  • Crankcase (cylinder) - body made of aluminum.
  • A gear that mates with the steering wheel shaft.
  • Tooth bar with a spring that presses the drive gear.
  • Locks to limit travel.
  • Seals to prevent oil leakage.
  • Bearings that provide easy movement of the rail in the housing and reduce the backlash of parts.

The toothed bar moves as the gear turns. It is connected to rods that transmit force to steering knuckles front wheels.

Depending on the modification, the assembly may include hydraulic cylinders or electric motors that make it easier to turn the steering wheel.

Varieties of steering racks

Three types of mechanisms are installed on passenger cars. They differ in the presence or absence of auxiliary devices that facilitate management.

Mechanical steering rack

The simplest version of the device, in which the control wheels turn due to the efforts of the driver. To reduce the load on the hands and at the same time facilitate control on the track, racks are installed in the cars, in which the variable number increases with the increase in the angle of rotation of the wheels. This facilitates maneuvers in the parking lot and provides a "sharp steering" at speed.

Hydraulic steering rack

The impact of the driver is complemented by a hydraulic booster. This allows you to create easy and at the same time "sharp" control.

Power steering softens the loads that occur when driving over bumps. The only drawback of such a device is the deterioration of "sensitivity". It is compensated in two ways:

  • install an electric power steering with feedback;
  • change the design of the suspension.

Electric steering rack

In these devices, the driver's influence on the steering wheel is enhanced by the engine. It is powered by the onboard power supply. Depending on the location, there are three types of nodes in which the motor is mounted on the steering shaft, column and in the rack housing. The last option is the most reliable.

The design with an electric motor on the shaft is dangerous because in the event of a breakdown, it practically stops working.

Today, most production cars of the budget and middle class are equipped with a power steering rack.

Diagnostics and repair

Driver comfort and safety on the road depend on the serviceability of the device. The simple design of the rail with hydraulic booster allows you to perform repair and diagnostic work at home. To detect breakdowns and replace parts, special equipment and devices are required.

Power Steering Rack Malfunctions: Symptoms

To protect yourself on the roads, it is necessary to regularly conduct a thorough check of the technical condition of the control mechanism. Serious breakdowns manifest themselves clearly and do not require special devices for detection. Just look out for the following signs:

  • Difficulty turning the steering wheel or failure to return to the center position after a turn. This happens as a result of deformation of the rack, crankcase or shaft.
  • Knocking when driving over bumps and pits, decreasing when the wheels are set to the extreme position. The reason is the wear of the cardan shafts of the steering column, the hinges of the rods, the erasure of the teeth of the central gear of the rack.
  • Hypersensitivity - a discrepancy between the angle of rotation of the wheels and the steering wheel, or a situation where, at the slightest movement of the hands, the car “throws around”. This happens as a result of malfunctions. hydraulic system GUR.
  • Reducing the level of liquid in the tank, the appearance of smudges and oil stains on the anthers. Leakage occurs as a result of shaft corrosion and wear of rubber seals.

Before starting a conversation about the types of electric amplifiers and their characteristic problems, let's say a few words about the algorithm of their work. Immediately after starting the engine, a self-diagnosis of the system is performed - its performance is confirmed. In the neutral position, the electric motor does not work: the entire system is waiting for action.

As soon as you start turning the steering wheel, the signal from the steering angle and torque sensor goes to the ECU, which in turn gives the command to the electric motor, which makes life easier for you. Moreover, the nature of the operation of the electric amplifier will be different depending on the speed of the car: in this way, the progressivity of the EUR operation is achieved. After passing the turn and gradually removing the force from the steering wheel, the system will return the wheels to the neutral position.

Surely the owners of front-wheel drive cars with a transverse engine have noticed how the car pulls a little to the side during an active start. This is due to the different lengths of the drive shafts on the right and left sides. So, models with an electric booster can also steer the wheels a little, thereby compensating for the withdrawal. In general, the effort on the steering wheel is completely under the control of the EUR - and therefore it is on his conscience that the “emptiness of the steering wheel” and the “artificiality of the effort”, which are so often talked about and complained about by numerous journalists.

What are electric amplifiers

These systems are divided primarily at the place of installation of the power unit (electric motor): on the steering column (almost under the steering wheel) or on the steering rack. In the first case, the steering mechanism will be the most common, for example, as in or Nissan Micra, and in the second, an electric motor or drive is integrated into the design. Today, in practice, we will consider a more interesting option with an amplifier on the rail.

On the steering mechanism itself, the electric motor can be installed in different ways - either separately or as part of the body of this steering mechanism. There is also a type of rack rod drive: an additional gear or a movable screw-nut connection.

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In the latter case, the electric motor can transmit rotation through a belt drive, or the drive can be direct (as in Lexus GS racks).

To understand when and how much it is necessary to “help” the driver to turn the steering wheel, the system uses data from several sensors - this is a torque sensor on the steering gear shaft, a steering wheel position sensor, a speed sensor crankshaft and wheel speed sensors. The only sensor that relates directly to the EUR system is the torque sensor.


More about the device

Now consider three different design options: steering racks with an additional gear, parallel drive racks and direct drive racks. Each of them has its pros and cons - now we will indicate which ones.

Racks with an additional gear incorporate an electric motor, which rotates a gear through a worm gear, very similar to the one we rotate through the steering shaft. On the rail itself, in this case, there are two notches of the teeth. In this design, everything is not bad - only friction losses are high: after all, this is a worm gear. With this design, the electric motor often has its own housing.

Rails with parallel drive - this is the name of the mechanism in which the rotation from the electric motor through the belt is transmitted to the nut, or, more precisely, to the screw-nut pair.


The screw here is a rod with threaded threads on one side and notched teeth on the other.


Balls are placed between the nut and the screw, through which rotation is transmitted - they also act as a bearing. It works like this: when you start turning the steering wheel, an electric motor comes into action, rotating the nut in one direction or another, helping you turn the steering wheel.

Direct drive racks are a third option in which the steering rack housing is part of the motor housing, with the rack stem running inside it. The rotation from the electric motor is transmitted through the “screw-nut” pair already known to us.



So, these are the main types of structures. Communication with the service master allowed us to find out another important feature: there is a fundamental difference between Japanese and European rails. The Japanese “hide” the electric power control unit away from the steering mechanism itself - as a result, a long loop of wires stretches to the electric motor for control, communication and diagnostics. Europeans, on the other hand, mount the control unit next to the electric motor or directly on it.

It is hard to say which approach is correct. In the case of the "Japanese", in order to remove the entire system, you need to pull out a few meters of wiring and find the control unit itself - but in this case the unit is safe. With the European rail, there will be no problems in terms of dismantling: I disconnected two or three connectors, unscrewed a couple of mounting bolts - and that's it. However, the control unit in such a scheme is subject to various external influences.

Primary diagnosis

The primary diagnostics of a car that has arrived at the service area is based on data received from the owner of the car: for example, a knock is constant or only during rotation, steering wheel biting, uneven steering force or its absence. Based on this, the rail is dismantled and connected to a special stand (we have MSG MS561) and errors are read. Using the stand, they simulate the operation of the engine in various modes and study the operation of the steering mechanism in more detail. This is done in order to localize the malfunction and understand whether the problem lies in the hardware or in the electrician.

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Problems in order

First, let's talk about the mechanical part of the system. Here everything is the same as with other rails: almost any problem is associated with the rupture of the anthers of the rail and the ingress of water and dirt into it. Water is inevitable corrosion, and dirt is excessive wear of rubbing surfaces.

Side bush wear is perhaps the most innocuous thing that can happen to a rack rod. Washout lubricant from a screw-nut pair can lead to biting in a pair or even jamming of the steering mechanism in one position.


In parallel drive mechanisms, the ingress of moisture on the belt leads to a sharp increase in its wear and, ultimately, rupture. The sharply increased effort on the steering wheel is what the driver feels in this case.


Rarely, but it happens that due to moisture, the bearing of the electric motor is corroded - then you will hear the frantic howl of the latter during operation.


Wear in the gearing of the pinion shaft and the rack rod is also a potential cause of boot rupture. But here you can try to cure the disease by tightening the stem stop.



Asking the master about the effect of water on the electric motor, if the drive is direct, we learned that there can be no special problems with the motor itself - good wire insulation does its job.


Having dealt with the mechanics, we move on to the “source of power” - the electrical part. There are not many potential problems here, but almost all of them are associated with solid costs.

For example, if the electronic unit system control is mounted on a rail, it is often not protected in any way, because a pebble that has flown in from somewhere can break the block cover. And even if you notice it right away (which is unlikely), the unit will still have to be sent for replacement. At the same time, when we say “block”, we mean the entire rail, because the blocks are not supplied separately, and at the moment only modest attempts are being made to repair this element. But all attempts are broken against the impenetrable wall of the lack of software for programming ECU processors.


The failure of the torque sensor is another unpleasant situation on the road. In this case, the EUR "does not understand" with what frequency and effort to help you turn the steering wheel and in which direction.



The amplifier will not turn off completely, as it will “take” the speed and steering angle sensor data, but the EUR malfunction indicator will light up on the dashboard. Moreover, it may happen that you need to turn the steering wheel to the right, and the electric motor will “turn” it to the left.

The sensors themselves can be analog or digital, and therefore they have corresponding problems. Analog ones “suffer” from wear: this manifests itself in a different effort on the steering wheel or moving the mechanism away from the central position.



Digital, however, also suffer from wear, but not the sensor itself, but the cable, which can be tritely frayed.


We treat rail

Mechanical problems with the rack rod are not treated in any way. Corrosion, excessive wear on the threads or teeth will send you to buy a new stem - no grinding or any other processing is provided here. If everything is in order with the rod, and the cause of the knock was the wear of the side bushing or the increased clearance in the gearing, then the bushing can be replaced without problems, and the clearance can be adjusted by tightening the stem stop (same as in the case of hydraulic boosters). Actually, there are simply no other solutions to hardware problems.

But with the electrician, as mentioned above, wherever you look, there are only frustrations everywhere. If the readable errors are associated with improper operation, then you can try to remove them - but if these are breakdowns ... Then the solutions are simple, but expensive. Judge for yourself: the slightest crack in the block cover is, in most cases, the replacement of the entire steering rack. Electric motor bearing corrosion means two ways to solve the problem: replacing the electric motor with the control unit or, again, replacing the entire rail assembly. By the way, the replacement of the assembly is the verdict of any official dealer: the manufacturer usually simply does not provide for the possibility of repairing and restoring the steering gear with the EUR.

And if the drive is direct, and water got inside, then what will happen to the electric motor? Fortunately, nothing: it will be washed with gasoline, dried and sent back to the service. Regarding this element of the EUR, the master generally noticed that he had never encountered problems associated with the failure of the system motor.

Damage to the torque sensor is treated by replacing the sensor. The only consolation for the design with an analog sensor may be the possibility of a slight adjustment (± 1 °) of the ERA. But if the sensor socket is broken significantly, then the adjustment will no longer help.

One of the most common causes of sensor failure is damage to the anther that is installed above it. It begins to rot from constant moisture and eventually collapses, sending the sensor for replacement - if there is such an opportunity. If it is not there, then ... You probably already guessed it: replacing the rail assembly. But the most annoying thing that can happen is a banal breakdown of the connector on the rail, because in this case, nothing but replacing the rail assembly will help either.


If you are lucky and the rail has been repaired

Upon completion of the work, the rail is assembled and installed on the car.


After installation, it is necessary to initialize or adapt the EUR. This action is extremely important, because it allows you to "teach" the rail to see all the sensors and extreme positions. If this is not done, then the electric motor will turn “to victory”, as a result of which, at the end of the stroke, the rod will hit point-blank with considerable force. After the adaptation is completed, the system will sharply reduce the force 5 degrees before the extreme position, protecting the stem from impact.

The steering rack is considered a fairly reliable unit that rarely fails, but there are exceptions when the rack causes a lot of inconvenience to car owners. The main cause of the malfunction can be considered the load that the steering rack is subjected to during vehicle operation.

An uneven road is "transferred" to the rack through the steering rods, in addition, the steering rack is subject to loads from the driver himself, who willy-nilly constantly rotates, thereby loading the rack. It is for these reasons that a seemingly durable part can also easily fail and cause a lot of trouble.

Steering rack repair in 9 cases out of 10 is pointless, although there are craftsmen who claim that almost any part in this device can be repaired.

A few words about the steering rack device ...

There are several main types of steering racks - mechanical and hydraulic (power steering -). The first is characteristic of the first domestic models, the offspring of which are produced to this day. The mechanical rail was eventually replaced by a hydraulic one due to a more advanced successor mechanism and more convenient control. A little later, a third type of steering rack appeared - electric (EUR). This modification works without hydraulics, its role is played by an electric motor. The disadvantage of the EUR is the high cost and complexity of the mechanism, the repair of which is not possible for everyone. Read more about the differences and features of power steering and EUR in.

The steering rack consists of the following mechanisms:

  • Steering rods and tips. They are attached to the retractable mechanisms of the steering rack, with their help the wheels are turned;
  • Gears and gear bar. By means of gears and straps, the force is transferred from the steering wheel to the steering rods, as well as the control of a pair of wheels;
  • Carter. It is also called the body, most often made of aluminum, it contains the main parts of the rail;
  • Spring system. They are necessary for a snug fit of the rack to the gear, if the springs are in good condition, there is practically no backlash and free play of the steering wheel;
  • Bearings. Necessary for ease of maneuvering and turning movements of the rack;
  • Limiters. By means of the limiters, the maximum value of the rotation (steering rack travel) from the right edge to the left is determined.

The design of the steering rack may differ depending on the manufacturer, for example, the rack, the refinement of which is patented, combines the steering rack and the planetary mechanism, which made it possible to automatically change the steering settings depending on the speed of the vehicle. There is truth and negative sides such experiments, for example, while driving on bad roads, the mechanism becomes unusable very quickly. Moreover, the cost of repairing such a rail of a famous brand can be about half the cost of the entire part.

How does the steering rack with power steering

The power steering is connected to the steering rack housing, so it only comes into operation when the engine is running and fluid is being injected. The hydraulic booster pulley is driven by a belt drive, in turn, the hydraulic pump inside the rack creates pressure and acts on the wheel rods at the request of the driver. Important role in the work of the power steering, a built-in computer plays, which calculates the forces and pressure.

  • The torsion bar in conjunction with electrical systems distributes pressure depending on the turn of the steering wheel;
  • The spool valve is a pressure source capable of pressurizing the rail as needed;
  • A special container is used to collect oil when the engine is turned off. As soon as the steering wheel begins to rotate, oil is injected through the spool valve, exactly where it is necessary to create pressure. After the steering wheel stops rotating, the power steering pump stops pumping, as a result, it returns to the tank.

The power steering must be constantly serviced, monitored for its condition, timely troubleshooting and changing the power steering fluid in accordance with the requirements of the automaker. The quality and timeliness of system maintenance can be considered a fundamental factor in the issue of long and trouble-free operation. You should pay attention to the viscosity of the oil, it should not be too viscous, as this can cause excessive pressure in the rail and lead to unpleasant consequences.

The main malfunctions of the steering rack and how to solve them

In fact, it is quite difficult to count all the problems and "sores" of the steering rack and the mechanism as a whole, and given the fact that the racks differ structurally from each other, it is completely impossible. Best Option there will be a study of problems according to the relevant signs in the operating manual for the car, but if this is not possible, then generally accepted concepts can be used.

  1. Malfunction of the internal part of the rail. Breakage of the gear mechanism or the gear itself.
  2. Deformation of the steering rack housing. This leads to complete immobilization of the vehicle.
  3. Violation of tightness inside the steering rack. After depressurization, particles of dust and sand penetrate inside, followed by a complete failure of the steering rack.
  4. Critical wear of the internal mechanisms of the steering rack. After that, the functions of the rack, including driving a car, become impossible.
  5. (crack, distortion, etc.), as a result mechanical impact(impact, damage, etc.). In this case, the repair is quite possible and will take a little time and money.

Repair of the steering rack is possible when the inside of the mechanism is not broken. If, during the inspection, serious wear was found on the inside of the rack and its parts, damage to the anthers, the presence of dirt inside the rack, then there is only one way out in this situation - replacing the steering rack. Only in this way can the problem with this part be solved. Various workshops offer their services for the repair and restoration of steering racks, however, in the vast majority of cases, all restoration work only briefly solves the issue of a faulty rack. Therefore, in 9 cases out of 10 in case of malfunctions of the steering rack, it is recommended to complete replacement this node.

Not so long ago, automakers allowed the repair of mechanisms, sold original spare parts and developed restoration technologies. However, later the shop was closed, citing a security threat. Although no fundamental changes have been made to the design and manufacturing technology of steering racks. Fortunately, there is still an alternative to costly replacement of the node due to its leak or knocking. With a qualified approach, the rails are successfully repaired without any safety hazard.

STICKS IN THE WHEELS

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Steering gear seals are of two types. Power cuffs seal the rail - they are designed to work under high pressure: up to 150–200 bar. The steering shaft seal is a conventional stuffing box that can withstand ten times less pressure.

Steering gear seals are of two types. Power cuffs seal the rail - they are designed to work under high pressure: up to 150–200 bar. The steering shaft seal is a conventional stuffing box that can withstand ten times less pressure.

Around 2005, almost all automakers changed their policy dramatically - steering racks were declared non-repairable. The sale of original spare parts and access to information about the technology for restoring nodes were covered. However, this did not put an end to the repair industry. For most vehicles, steering gears are made by large third-party manufacturers such as ZF. Therefore, original spare parts remain available and Technical information. In addition, no one canceled the unification. Often, parts from other cars from the early 2000s are suitable for fresh models from one automaker. In addition, there are manufacturers specializing in the same oil seals and bushings. According to their catalogs, it is not difficult to choose a spare part of the required type and size - nominal or repair. So while you can fix almost any rail.

Hidden threat

The real scourge of all steering rack and pinion mechanisms is corrosion. The reason for it is mainly unskilled service. Often, when replacing steering rods, servicemen fix their anthers with universal plastic clamps - this is much easier than having to suffer with the installation of regular, metal ones. But the plastic clamp, no matter how tighten it, does not provide complete tightness of the anther, which is crucial for the health of the mechanism.

During the operation of the rack, the anthers of the steering rods are alternately compressed and unclenched, due to which there is a movement of air inside the assembly. Without such ventilation, each anther is excessively deformed, and this is fraught with damage. For air circulation, most manufacturers make grooves various types on the gear rack. If plastic clamps are installed, one of the anthers sucks in warm air from engine compartment and the other releases it back. When passing through the steering mechanism, the air actively cools down (after all, the unit is on the subframe close to the ground) - condensation forms. Six months is enough for the rail to begin to rust.

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Steering shaft corrosion makes itself felt earlier on power steering. Due to work on a rough surface, seals begin to wear out and leak quickly. On steering racks with an electromechanical amplifier, it is more difficult to recognize the onset of the disease. When it comes to tangible malfunctions - knocks and backlashes, corrosion will already have time to cause irreparable harm to the gear rack. In advanced cases, it affects teeth that cannot be repaired. The teeth have a complex profile and high surface hardening, and it is almost impossible to restore them correctly after any machining.

Corrosion of the remaining surfaces of the rails is fought by three methods: grinding, grinding to the repair diameter and zavtulivaniye. Grinding is done when the rust is surface and the total reduction in the diameter of the rail does not exceed 0.1 mm. In this case, spare parts (seals and a support sleeve) of nominal size are used. With such an increase in the gap, there will be no leaks and knocks.

With deeper corrosion, it is permissible to painlessly grind the gear rack by no more than 0.5 mm. This is the recommendation of most manufacturers. These parts are usually hardened to a depth of about 1.5 mm. After all, they must work reliably under oil pressure up to 150 bar. With such a significant reduction in diameter, spare parts of the repair size are used. Oil seals are selected from catalogs, and bushings sometimes have to be made.

And here is a curious technology for eradicating more severe rust. The gear rack is machined and, using a special compound, a stainless steel pipe is pressed - this material has sufficient strength. Then the rail is again turned and polished to the nominal diameter. The technology is complex and has many pitfalls.

It happens due to design features corrodes the input steering shaft of the rack. Usually the shaft is at an angle of about 45º, and in the place where it passes through the engine shield, a kind of cup is formed. On many machines, water from the street constantly gets into it, because of which the shaft begins to rust. Corrosion reaches the oil seal, causing it to wear prematurely. Hydraulic racks will announce a leak, and electromechanical ones, again, are silent to the last. The treatment is similar: the shaft is machined and a repair gland is selected for the new diameter. The depth of processing is not of fundamental importance, because metal with special mechanical properties is not used for the manufacture of this part. However, it is rare when more than 1 mm is removed.

Enough frequently asked question with regards to steering racks, they are asked to tell about everything - “seals”, “guides”, hydraulic design, electrical structure etc. I will definitely try to clarify all the questions a little later. But a very common question from beginners regarding their types. How many exist at the moment, how they work. It is with him that I will start, as it seems to me it is logical to first talk about the types of devices, and then consider each separately ...


First, let's remember what it is

steering rack - This is a vehicle assembly that is designed to control the wheels. The driver turns steering wheel, through special shafts, the “turn” is transmitted to the rail, which transmits the force to the wheels. Thus, they deviate to the desired angle. Thanks to this design, the machine can go around obstacles, turn, maneuver, and not move in a straight line.

This node evolves along with the machine, before it was a rather primitive design, now more and more technologies are being put into control. But to this day, there are only three main types of steering racks. Let's take a closer look.

Types of steering racks

  • Normal, without amplifiers . It was used back in the 70s - 80s of the last century on 90% of cars. Here, all the effort of turning the steering wheel lies on the driver, there are no amplifiers, and therefore it is not always easy to turn the steering wheel.
  • Steering rack with power steering or power steering. In fact, this is the same ordinary rail, only a special pump and a closed circuit with oil seals () are added to it, which helps to turn the steering wheel. That is, the driver does not need to make a lot of effort to turn the steering wheel. This is especially valuable on heavy vehicles (trucks, buses and SUVs).
  • Steering rack with EUROM or electric power steering. This is a dry type of amplifier, no oil is used here, and the principle of operation is completely different. Next to the shaft is Electrical engine with a gear (power comes from the on-board network), which helps to turn the steering wheel. He is ordered by the ECU, he sees where the wheels deviate and orders the electric motor to help in the turn.

To exaggerate, the types are divided as follows: - conventional mechanics with 100% use of muscular strength, a rail with a hydraulic booster and an electric booster. Now let's break it down in more detail.

Conventional design

Actually, it all started with her. It is simple and can be said not to be killed. Until now, it can be found on some cars, such as VAZ 2113 - 2115. However, if I'm not mistaken, it is no longer installed on new models. Yet now everywhere GUR or EUR.

Let's briefly recall the structure: - there is one working shaft (with a gear), which runs in a metal case, two rods with steering tips are connected to it, the whole thing is closed with anthers. Engaged with the shaft is a shaft with a worm gear, which is already attached to the steering wheel. This is very exaggerated, look at the diagram that displays the design feature.

What can happen to such a rail?

Positive points :

  • Rugged and simple design
  • Easy repair (almost do-it-yourself)
  • Cheap price

Negative points :

  • It is difficult to turn the steering wheel, especially in the parking lot
  • Maneuverability and control suffer
  • Conventional rail is not placed on heavy machines
  • obsolete

It all started with this device, it did its job, gave impetus to the development of new technologies.

Steering rack with power steering

Engineers have always struggled with comfort and increased handling and maneuverability. The issue was especially acute trucks, because only a physically developed person could turn the steering wheel without an amplifier.

Appears first steering with hydraulic power steering, abbreviated GUR.

What is added to the building?

I'm not going to tell difficult, but I will try to tell in simple words. If you can exaggerate, then the power steering is installed on a conventional steering rack, but it makes a number of changes.

Concepts such as:

  • Vane pump. It is driven by a belt drive from the engine, thus building up a pressure of 50 - 100 BAR
  • Piston. Which is installed on the shaft, the oil pressure can push it either in one direction or in the other direction.
  • Distributor or torsion bar. This is the so-called "tracking device", which doses the feed special liquid(and here it is used), in one direction or another of the piston. Due to which the piston is pushed in one direction or another. Essentially the principle of a syringe.

If you display everything schematically, it turns out:

The work of the hydraulic booster consists - as long as you eat evenly and do not turn the steering wheel, the pressure that has been created in the oil goes in a circle, the “pump - reservoir”, it does not take part in the work.

After you turn the steering wheel in the direction you need, the torsion bar (distributor) begins to open one side and clamps the other, so oil pressure enters the piston from the desired side, pushing it. Thanks to this, you can easily turn the steering wheel in one direction or another. Probably, they didn’t understand, be sure to watch the video under the article, I’ll put everything on my fingers there.

pros :

  • Easy maneuverability and control
  • Light handlebar
  • Even heavy cars can be driven by any driver

Minuses :

  • Power steering takes power from the engine because there is a belt drive
  • Difficult and expensive repairs
  • Complicated structure
  • May leak when the fluid leaves, it becomes doubly difficult to ride
  • It's unlikely to be able to do it yourself.
  • There is fluid in the work, which also needs to be changed

To sum up, the hydraulic booster really facilitated the work of drivers, especially those who are constantly behind the wheel of “heavy trucks”. It is also worth noting that this knot is now quite strong, it can walk for long thousands of kilometers, ONLY you should definitely pay attention to the condition of the anthers.

In this article, I only touched on the edge of the iceberg, called GUR, there will soon be a large article where we will analyze it thoroughly.

Steering rack with EUROM

The next type (at the moment, he is supposedly the most perfect of opponents) is a steering rack with EUROM, an electric power steering. As it is already becoming clear, technology is used here that is associated with electricity, and not with hydraulics.

How does it work:

You know, it seems to me that the technology is more advanced, if only because the original rail is almost preserved here, it does not have pistons and various pumps.

SO: There is your main one, with a set of teeth and a worm shaft that transmits power from the steering wheel. So, a gear is installed on the worm shaft, which in turn is turned by an electric motor.

There are special reading sensors on the steering wheel, when you reject the steering wheel, the sensors transmit the deviation to the ECU, and in turn the ECU sends a signal to the electric booster and it helps you turn the steering wheel in one direction or another. That's it, it's simple.

Positive points:

  • There is almost no power take-off from the engine, or it is minimal
  • The unit is very compact
  • Just a repair, in fact it is an ordinary electric motor
  • There are no liquids
  • Can work in several modes, for example - city, highway
  • Just like a hydraulic opponent makes it easier to control
  • Work much better with modern security systems

Negative points :