Clutch work. Clutch operation Design features of the clutch release actuator

For normal operation the clutch mechanism and its drive must be maintained within the required limits of the free play of the outer end of the clutch release fork and the full stroke of the piston rod of the working cylinder when the clutch pedal is depressed to failure.

The free play of the outer end of the clutch release fork is determined by the gap between the thrust bearing and the fifth of the release levers. This gap should be equal to 2.4 ... 3.4 mm. With insufficient clearance or in its absence, the end of the thrust bearing will contact the heel, which will not make it possible to fully press the pressure plate against the driven one. As a result, slipping of the clutch and, as a result, rapid wear of the thrust bearing is inevitable.

If the specified gap is too large, then this leads to incomplete disengagement of the clutch (the clutch "leads"), which makes it difficult to shift gears, can cause breakage of gear teeth and increased wear of the gearbox synchronizer blocking rings.

As the friction linings of the clutch wear, the thickness of the driven disc decreases. At the same time, the pressure plate approaches the flywheel and the gap between the heel and the thrust bearing, and, consequently, the free play of the outer end of the clutch release fork and the clutch pedal is reduced. In no case should you adjust the free play by turning the adjusting nuts 18 (see Fig. 77) of the fingers 19, as this can lead to a misalignment of the heel /5 and release levers 16.

The misalignment of the heel and levers, in turn, will cause, when the clutch is disengaged, a misalignment of the pressure plate 5, which makes it difficult to disengage the clutch, and the clutch begins to “lead”, making it difficult to shift gears.

Rice. 80. Clutch release mechanism: 1 - clutch housing; 2, 8 - lower and upper axle bushings; 3 - fork axle with lever assembly; 4 - spring; 5 - clutch release fork; 6 - adjusting washer; 7 - spring ring; 9, 10 - lower and upper tides; 11 - thrust bearing clip; 12 - thrust bearing; 13 - connecting link: 14 - nut; 15 - washer; 16 - fork fastening wedge.

CLUTCH DESIGN FEATURES

The car is equipped with a dry single-plate clutch with coil springs located along the periphery and a torsional vibration damper (damper) on the driven disk. The outer diameter of the friction linings of the disc is 190 mm. The clutch is controlled by hydraulic drive off from the foot pedal.

The clutch (Fig. 77) consists of two main parts: a pressure plate 5 assembled with a casing and clutch release levers and a driven disc 4. The discs are enclosed in a cast crankcase 10, which has the shape of a bell.

To reduce wear, the working surfaces of the support washers and the heel 15 are impregnated during the manufacturing process with a solid lubricant, molybdenum disulfide. The clutch mechanism is housed in a stamped steel housing connected to the engine flywheel with two dowel pins and six bolts with spring washers.

Rice. 77. Clutch: 1 - flywheel; 2 - lock washer; 3 - clutch mounting bolt; 4 - driven disk; 5 - pressure plate; 6 - spring; 7 - flywheel bolt; 8 - clutch release thrust bearing; 9 - cuff; 10 - clutch housing; 11 - transmission drive shaft; 12 - roller bearing; 13 - bearing collar; 14 - plug; 15 - heel; 16 - lever; 17 - thrust stand; 18 - adjusting nut of the finger; 19 - finger; 20 - spring plate of the driven disk arising from instantaneous dynamic loads during a sharp change in speed.

The pressure plate with the cover assembly is statically balanced, the allowable imbalance is not more than 20 g-cm. The increased imbalance is eliminated by drilling the metal in the radial direction along the outer diameter of the pressure disk 10. The metal is removed with a drill with a diameter of 7 mm (drilling depth up to 6 mm) with a distance from the working end of the disk to the drilling center of 6 mm.

When balancing, the pressure plate (Fig. 78) is installed on control holes a. After balancing, marks b are applied to the pressure plate and casing to prevent displacements during reassembly and imbalance in this case. Marks b are applied on one of the projections of the pressure plate and on a flat area of the surface of the clutch housing.

The driven disk (Fig. 79), which transmits rotation from the engine to the drive shaft of the gearbox, has a damper (damper) designed to eliminate the harmful effects of torsional vibrations in the vehicle's transmission crankshaft engine, as well as to reduce stress in the transmission elements,

Rice. 78. Clutch pressure plate with cover assembly:

1 - casing assembly; 2 - pressure plate with three projections; 3 - support washer; 4 - adjusting nut; 5 - finger of the pressure disk; 6 - thrust stand of the lever; 7 - pressure plate lever; 8 - heel of levers; 9 - glass clutch pressure spring; 10 - thermal insulation gasket; 11 - pressure spring; 12 - heel spring; a - control holes; b - marks on the casing and disk during static balancing; B - drill a hole with a diameter of 7 mm to a depth of 6 mm with a free distance between centers; G - when drilling, maintain a size of 6 mm.

After assembly, the driven disk is statically balanced: the allowable balance is no more than 15 g-cm. Increased imbalance is eliminated by installing balancing weights on the light side into the holes in the driven disk, which are located between the spring plates. Balance weights must be installed as shown in fig. 79. To secure the weights, their ends are riveted. Depending on the value of the imbalance of the driven disks, weights with different head heights are used to balance them.

For the manufacture of balancing weights, bar steel or brass of any grade that lends itself well to riveting can be used. If necessary, to facilitate riveting, balancing weights can be annealed. During static balancing, in case of a large imbalance, it is allowed to remove the material of friction linings 2 from the end face 12 up to 2 mm deep (see Fig. 79).

Clutch housing - bell-shaped, made of magnesium alloy ML-5. The closed form of the crankcase significantly increases the rigidity of the structure, and consequently, increases the reliability of the clutch and gearbox. Centering of the clutch housing relative to the engine crankcase is carried out by an annular groove with a diameter of 319 + 0.05 mm, a depth of 5.0 ... 5.5 mm. The seats of the clutch housing and the gearbox housing are processed together, so the clutch housing is not interchangeable.

The clutch housing is attached to the gearbox housing on eight studs with nuts, and is centered on two control pins. The connection cavities between them during assembly are lubricated with UN-25 sealing paste.

To prevent the penetration of grease from the gearbox housing into the clutch housing in central hole cuff 9 is pressed into the back wall of the clutch housing (see Fig. 77) with a small thread on the working edge, which is directed towards the gearbox housing (towards the oil). When replacing the cuff, its working edge must be lubricated with gearbox oil.

Rice. 79. Clutch disc assembly: 1 - spring plate; 2 - friction lining; 3, 4 - rivets; 5 - damper spring; 6 - hub; 7 - damper ring; 8 - damper plate; 9 - finger; 10 - driven disk; 11 - place of installation of balancing weights; 12 - places for removing the material of friction linings during static balancing; B - free size; G - the size in the compressed state under pressure of compression springs

On the inner surface of the rear wall of the crankcase (Fig. 80) there are lugs 9 and 10. Polyamide bushings 2 and 8 are installed in the holes of the lugs and the axis 3 of the fork of the clutch release mechanism is mounted. The axial movement of the axis 3 is set to 0.1...0.5 mm by the selection of adjusting washers 6 and is limited by the retaining ring 7.

A fork 5 for disengaging the clutch is installed on the axis 3, which is fixed with a spacer wedge 16 with a spring washer 15 and a nut 14, which is tightened with a force of 2.2 ... 3.2 kgf-m.

The return spring 4 returns the fork 5 with the axis 3 of the fork and the lever when the clutch is engaged and provides free travel of the clutch pedal. The spring 4 is freely put on the axle 3 of the fork, one end rests against the wall of the crankcase 1, and the other, with a special mustache, captures the fork 5.

In the solution of the fork 5, a cast-iron cage 11 is installed, into which a ball closed clutch release bearing with a graphite thrust bearing 12 is pressed. During operation, the thrust bearing does not require additional lubrication. The holder 11 of the thrust bearing is fixed on the fork 5 with the help of two spring connecting links 13.

Before assembly, the inner surface of the bushings 2 and 8, as well as the bearing surfaces of the fork 5, must be lubricated with grease No. 158 or Litol-24.

ENGINE RUN-IN

After repairing the engine, especially in the case of replacing parts of the crank mechanism, it is necessary to run it in before starting operation. The reliability and durability of the engine depends on the thoroughness of running-in no less than on the quality of the repair. The engine running-in process consists of two stages.

The first stage is running in Idling for 35 minutes in the following modes:

1000…1200 rpm - 5 min;

2000…2200 rpm - 5 min;

3000…3200 rpm - 10 min;

1000…3600 rpm - 15 min

The engine is run on M8G1 oil or other oils specified in this book. The carburetor choke should be kept fully open. During the first stage of running-in, it is necessary to check the pressure in the lubrication system, the absence of leaks, adjust the crankshaft speed at idle, make sure that it works by ear. The oil pressure at 3000 rpm of the crankshaft and the oil temperature of +80 °C must be at least 2 kgf/cm2. Faults found during the running-in process should be eliminated and the oil in the crankcase oil pan replaced.

The first stage of running-in is best carried out on a stand, but in the absence of a stand, you can also use a car.

The second stage is running in the car for a run of 3000 km. During this period, it is necessary to follow the rules for running in a new car, set out in the operation manual.

POWER SYSTEM REPAIR

Status check fuel tank. Periodically, the fuel tank must be removed and washed. To remove the tank, loosen the clamp on the fuel intake tube and remove the rubber hose from the tube. Disconnect the wire from the fuel level sensor. Then the clamp // (see Fig. 26) of the seal 12 is released and the fuel tank cap is removed from the neck. Unscrew two bolts / and lift up the clamps 2. Lubricate the upper part of the tank neck with soapy water, after which the tank can be easily removed from the body.

The fuel tank requires repair in case of mechanical damage and contamination. When repairing, the fuel tank is washed in a 5% solution of caustic soda, followed by three flushes with hot water.

Corrosion products are removed by pickling in a 10% hydrochloric acid solution. After pickling, the tank is neutralized with a 20% soda solution and washed with hot water. The tightness of the tank is checked in a bath of water with air at a pressure of 0.2 kgf/cm for 3 minutes. Cracks and other tank damage are most easily and safely repaired with epoxy pastes.

Checking the condition of the fuel lines. To prevent leakage of fuel in the connecting fittings, it is necessary to tighten them in a timely manner. Tighten carefully, as excessive tightening can damage the thread and tube. If the fuel leak is not eliminated by tightening the nuts, the connection is disassembled and inspected. If necessary, flare the tube cone more or replace the corresponding fastening parts.

Damage to fuel pipes (collapse, kinks) is eliminated by removing the damaged section, followed by connecting the junction with a coupling or overlapping. The joints are soldered with solder to ensure tightness.

Removal, disassembly, inspection and assembly of the fuel pump. When disassembling the fuel pump, the inlet and outlet fuel lines are disconnected from the fuel pump fittings, having previously blocked the access of fuel from the fuel tank. Remove the fuel pump, spacer, guide rod with pump drive rod and fuel pump gaskets. Check the integrity of the spacer and the absence of play in the drive rod in the guide.

Unscrew (see Fig. 27) the screws securing the upper part 5 of the fuel pump housing to the lower part 13 and remove the upper part, having previously marked the relative position of the housings. Unscrew the cover fastening bolt 1, remove the sealing washer, the cover and the gasket with the filter mesh. Rinse the lid and mesh. Check for breaks in the grid, as well as the condition of the inlet 4 and discharge 25 valves in the upper part 5 of the pump housing. If damage is found, replace the upper body with valve assemblies. Press on the upper cup 6 of the diaphragm 8 of the pump and, turning it 90 °, remove the diaphragm rod from the groove of the balancer 14, remove the diaphragm 8 as an assembly with the rod and the central spring of the diaphragm.

Check the diaphragm, establish if there are any ruptures, cracks or other damage. If necessary, tighten the nut on the diaphragm rod. If damage is found, replace the diaphragm. The diaphragm consists of three layers of rubberized fabric: the top two, working in contact with the fuel. and one working in contact with oil.

The central spring of the diaphragm is checked: the free length is 46.5 ... 47.5 mm, under load 3.2 ... 3.35 kgf - 24 mm.

Further disassembly of the fuel pump (see Fig. 27) is performed in case of oil leakage through the eccentric 15, axle 16 or in case of malfunction of the hand drive. Using a mandrel, the axis 16 of the lever and balancer is pressed out of the lower housing, the balancer 14, the drive lever 17, shims and the return spring of the lever are removed. The axle should fit snugly in the housing and show no noticeable wear. Replace parts if necessary. The spring of the drive lever in the free state should have a length of 27.5 ... 28.5 mm.

They clean the places of riveting of the eccentric, carefully bending the lever, remove it and the lever spring from the eccentric. Remove the eccentric from the lower case. They inspect the parts and, if damage is found, the unusable ones are replaced. The sealing ring of the eccentric must not show permanent deformation. The ring has an inner diameter of 6.02 ... 6.88 mm, in cross section it is a circle with a diameter of 1.70 ... 1.86 mm. Before assembling the pump, all gaskets and seals are replaced with new ones. Before installing new gaskets, they must be lubricated with a thin layer of oil.

The assembly of the fuel pump is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly, paying special attention to the cleanliness of the parts and protecting the internal cavities from dust and dirt. When tightening the screws securing the upper and lower housings of the fuel pump, pull the diaphragm down to failure to obtain the greatest stroke of the diaphragm. After assembly, check the operation of the balancer drive and the hand drive lever. They should turn without jerking or jamming. The hand drive lever must return to its original position under the action of the spring when it is retracted to the maximum distance.

The tightness of the diaphragm is checked by supplying fuel at a pressure of 0.6 kgf/cm2 to the discharge pipe. Leakage is not allowed. The tightness of the valve is checked at a pressure of 0.3 kgf/cm2. When holding for 10 minutes, fuel leakage is allowed no more than 10 cm3.

Before installing the pump (see Fig. 27), by pressing the lever 17 of the drive, it is moved to the beginning of the useful stroke and the distance between the lever and the mating plane of the pump housing is measured. The size of drowning B should be 1.0 ... 1.5 mm. The rod 21 is installed in the rod guide 20 so that the flat end of the rod is directed towards the drive eccentric.

Rice. 71. Device for measuring the protrusion of the end of the drive rod of the fuel pump: 1-flange; 2-rod; 3-nut; 4-indicator; B-dimension of drive lever sinking

Then install the guide 20 of the rod with the rod 21 of the spacer 22 and gaskets 18 and 19 on the studs of the distribution gear cover and, having fixed them, turn the crankshaft until the rod 21 protrudes to the maximum. In this case, the rod should be pressed against the pump drive cam. The rod should protrude above the spacer 22 with the gasket 18 by 1.7 ... 2.8 mm more than the drive lever 17 sinks when the free play is selected. The protrusion of the rod is regulated by a set of gaskets 19.

The protrusion of the end of the rod is conveniently adjusted and measured using the device (Fig. 71).

Disassembly and condition check air filter carburetors K-133 and K-133A. The clamps of the two locks are released (see Fig. 33, a) and the filter pan 13 is separated from the housing 7. O-ring 3, valve 1 with spring 4, glass 5 and valve seat 2 are removed from the pan. The contaminated oil is drained and the filter pan is washed with kerosene or gasoline until dust deposits are completely removed. Examine the details of the filter.

The operation of the air filter can sometimes be disturbed due to significant deposits on the nylon packing. In this case, the filter housing with packing is placed in a bath with gasoline for 5-6 hours, after which it is washed and dried.

Assemble the air filter and check its resistance. The resistance of a clean air filter at an air flow rate of 130 m3/h should be 240...280 mm w.c. Art. Pour 0.2 liters of fresh engine oil into the filter pan and finally assemble the filter. When assembling, pay attention to the safety of the sealing ring and the correct installation of the valve with a spring and a glass.

Removal, inspection and installation of the air filter of the carburetor DAAZ 2101-20. Loosen the clamp 17 (see Fig. 33, b), unscrew the nuts of the bracket 29 and remove the filter. The nuts 19 are unscrewed, the cover 20 is removed, the contaminated filter element 21 is taken out and replaced with a new one, the housing 23 is cleaned of dust before this.

The filter element is replaced every 10,000 km. With constant driving on very dusty roads, such a replacement is done every 800 ... 1000 km of run.

It is allowed to reuse the filter element after shaking off the dust and thoroughly blowing it from the inside with dry compressed air (directing the flow perpendicular to the plate on which the filter is installed). Do not aim the air jet directly at the element's filter curtain in order not to damage it. The filter element can be purged without removing it from the housing by directing the air flow through the opening of the cover perpendicular to the wall.

When assembling the air cleaner, it is necessary to pay attention to the reliability of the sealing of the nozzles in order to avoid the suction of polluted air.

Disassembly and assembly of a single-chamber carburetor (K-133 and K-133A). It is recommended to disassemble the carburetor in the following sequence:

unscrew the plug 77 of the fuel filter and remove the filter (see Fig. 28);

unscrew the screws securing the float chamber cover to the float chamber body, lift the cover and, carefully turning it in the direction of the rigid rod, remove the cover with the float from the float chamber body; simultaneously disconnecting the rod from the air damper lever;

remove the gasket, remove the axis 4 (Fig. 72) of the float and remove the float. Remove the needle 7 of the valve together with the rubber sealing washer 8 and unscrew the seat 6 of the valve. Unscrew the idle air jet 12 (see Fig. 29);

wash parts in gasoline. In the presence of abundant resinous deposits, wash the parts with acetone or thinner for nitro paints. To clean the jets, you can use a pointed wooden stick, abundantly moistened with solvent. Blow out the washed parts and channels of the carburetor with compressed air. It is not recommended to flush the fuel valve with acetone or other solvents to avoid destruction of the sealing rubber washer. It is absolutely unacceptable to use wire, even soft, to clean the jets;

check the float for tightness. When soldering the float, appropriate precautions must be taken to avoid explosion of gasoline vapours. After soldering, the mass of the float should be 13.3 ± 0.7 g. Check the tightness fuel valve. If necessary, replace the sealing rubber washer 8 (see Fig. 72) or the fuel valve assembly.

Rice. 72. Float with fuel valve: 1 - float; 2 - tongue for setting the level; 3 - float stroke limiter; 4 - float axis; 5 - float chamber cover: 6 - fuel supply valve seat; 7 - fuel supply valve needle; 8 - sealing rubber washer

Assemble the cover of the float chamber in the reverse order of disassembly, while:

the idle air jet must be wrapped without much effort, checking the safety of the fiber gasket;

in case of replacement of parts of the float mechanism or if carburetor overflows were observed in operation, the correct position of the float relative to the fuel valve should be checked. This position determines the fuel level in the float chamber. Preliminary set the size of 39 mm by bending the tongue 2 (see Fig. 72). At the same time, by bending the limiter 3 of the float stroke, it is necessary to set the needle stroke of the fuel supply valve to 1.2 ... 1.5 mm. At the same time, it is not allowed to press the float on the valve needle when adjusting the fuel level in the float chamber in order to avoid damage to the sealing rubber washer;

the circumferential clearance between the air damper and the cover body must not exceed 0.25 mm. Followed by:

unscrew screws 40 (see Fig. 29) and remove microswitch 39; disconnect the mixing chamber housing and at the same time, while pressing the accelerator pump drive bar, remove the drive rod earring connecting the rod to the throttle axis lever, unscrew the fuel supply screw 4 and remove the accelerator pump atomizer 3;

remove the accelerator pump drive rod 33 together with the strap and piston and remove the rod return spring. Remove the check valve safety ring from the well of the accelerator pump (using tweezers) and, turning the body of the float chamber, remove the check valve 30 (ball d = 4 mm); unscrew plugs 13 (see Fig. 28) of the idle fuel jet and air jet 16 of the main metering system, then unscrew the jets. When turning out the jets, you should use carefully tucked screwdrivers so as not to damage the slots;

unscrew the plug 8 and remove the emulsion tube 9 (see Fig. 29), unscrew the valve 31 of the mechanical economizer and remove the fiber washer;

unscrew the adjusting screw 19 from the mixing chamber body, unscrew the screws, remove the forced idle economizer 23 (EPKhH) and remove the atomizer 25 of the autonomous idle system. Check the tip of the adjusting screw 19 ACXH and the conical surface of the hole, the conical surfaces of the valve 24 of the forced idle economizer system (EPXH) and the atomizer 25 ACXH, the tightness of the atomizer 25 in the mixing chamber 28, the condition of the valve diaphragm 24 APHH. Replace damaged parts;

check the tightness of the screws securing the throttle valve to the axle. Check the fit of the throttle valve to the body of the mixing chamber; clearance along the contour should not exceed 0.06 mm. Thoroughly rinse and blow through all parts. Check if the accelerator pump piston moves easily in the cylinder. It should move in the cylinder without jamming;

check the tightness of the delivery valve of the accelerator pump and the valve of the mechanical economizer (in case of increased consumption gasoline), inspect the gaskets: replace damaged gaskets with new ones.

The body of the float chamber is assembled with the body of the mixing chamber in the reverse order of disassembly, while it is necessary:

wrap jets without much effort;

ensure the reliability of the seal in all places where the gaskets are installed;

check the gap between the adjusting nuts with the throttle fully open; for the economizer drive rod, it should be 4.5 ... 5.5 mm, and for the accelerator pump piston drive rod, it should be 1.5 ... 2.5 mm. Fix the position of the adjusting nuts by crimping;

install (see Fig. 29) atomizer 3 and screw in the fuel supply screw 4,

install the assembled cover of the float chamber by connecting the rod;

Rice. 73. A device for checking the fuel level in the float chamber of K-133 and K-133A carburetors: 1 - scale bar; 2 - glass tube; 3 - fitting; 4 - gasket; 5 - carburetor

check the fuel supply by the accelerator pump, which must be at least 6 cm3 for 10 piston strokes, the relative position of the air and throttle valves;

Set the lower stop of the throttle lever so that throttle valve was completely closed, but not wedged, and the upper stop so that the plane of the throttle valve was parallel to the axis of the hole with a diameter of 32 mm of the mixing chamber. With the air damper fully closed, the gap between the wall of the mixing chamber and the throttle should be 1.6 ... 1.8 mm (if necessary, set by bending the rod);

install the microswitch 39 so that its pusher is recessed with the lever 41 when the throttle is fully closed

the microswitch drive (the microswitch is open), while a characteristic click is heard, when the throttle valve is opened, the lever 41 drops by 3 ... 4 mm, the pusher of the microswitch is retracted by the spring, and the microswitch closes;

check the fuel level in the float chamber on the stand. The fuel level in the float chamber at an overpressure of 0.3 kgf/cm2 for gasoline with a density of 0.720 ... 0.750 g / cm3 should be 21 ... 23.5 mm from the upper plane of the float chamber.

In the absence of a stand, this check can be performed with less accuracy on the engine, for which a fitting with a glass tube is made (Fig. 73). It is necessary to unscrew the plug of the main jet and screw the fitting in its place so that the glass tube becomes vertical, then the fuel pump manual priming lever. Fill the float chamber with fuel. A metal ruler measures the distance from the upper plane of the float chamber to the fuel level in the float chamber (to the bottom of the meniscus). When installing the carburetor, pay attention to the integrity of the gaskets. After installation, it is required to adjust the carburetor while the engine is idling.

Checking the solenoid valve. The tightness of the solenoid valve should be checked by supplying air at a pressure of 0.9 ... 0.85 kgf / cm2 to the side fitting, while closing the ventilation fitting.

When a vacuum of 0.85 kgf/cm2 is applied to the vertical fitting, the solenoid valve must open with the 12 V voltage connected and close when the voltage is removed. If the voltage is connected when the engine is not running, then a characteristic click should be heard.

With the engine idling, the valve is checked by disconnecting the wire, while the engine should stop.

Examination electronic block management. The electronic control unit has two boundary limits. With an increase in the engine speed of the engine crankshaft more than 1500 ... 1800 rpm, the positive potential is turned off at terminal 1 (see Fig. 29), when the frequency decreases below 1500 rpm, a positive potential appears at terminal 1.

In this way, the operability of the unit is checked, and before that it is necessary to remove the wires on the microswitch 39. The absence of a positive potential at terminal 1 (if there is a positive potential at terminal 2) indicates a malfunction of the unit and the need to replace it.

In the event of a failure of the forced idle economizer system, it is necessary to de-energize the system and connect fittings 3 and 6 (see Fig. 28) with a flexible hose, while the carburetor will operate according to the generally accepted scheme, without solenoid valve 21 (see Fig. 29) of the electronic control unit 35 and microswitch 39.

Adjustment of the carburetor when the engine is idling. The economical operation of the engine largely depends on the correct adjustment of the carburetor when operating at low idle speeds.

This adjustment is made with the engine fully warmed up. The oil temperature must be at least 60...70°C.

The adjustment of the K-133 and K-133A carburetors must be performed in the following sequence:

on the idle engine tighten screw 7 (see Fig. 28) for operational adjustment and screw 2 to failure, but not tight, so as not to damage their working cones. After that, unscrew the screws by 2.5 ... 3 turns;

start the engine and turn the screw 2 to set the crankshaft speed to 950...1050 rpm;

then tighten the screw 7, while the engine crankshaft speed will first increase, and then when the screw is further screwed in, the mixture will become leaner and the engine will start to work intermittently with a simultaneous decrease in the engine crankshaft speed. At this point, you need to slightly unscrew the screw 7 and achieve stable operation of the engine.

The selected adjustment must be checked in variable modes - sharply press the throttle drive pedal and quickly release it. At the same time, the crankshaft speed should increase smoothly without dips and interruptions, and when the pedal is suddenly released, it should decrease to a minimum and stable one, while the engine should not stop. If the engine has stopped, turning out the screw 7, you should slightly increase the speed.

Checking the emission of harmful substances with exhaust gases into the atmosphere is carried out after adjusting the idle speed on a warm engine (oil temperature 60 ... 70 ° C).

For verification, special equipment is required - a gas analyzer with an error of no more than ± 2.5%. The check is carried out in accordance with GOST 17.2.2.03-87 in two modes: at idling speed and 2550 ... 2650 rpm.

If the emission of harmful substances does not exceed the permissible limits, the toxicity screw 2 (see Fig. 28) of the K-133 and K-133A carburetors must be painted over with red paint. If the emission of harmful substances is above the permissible limits, it is necessary to adjust the idle speed of the crankshaft and then check the emission of harmful substances.

If the emission of harmful substances could not be reduced by additional adjustment, the carburetor must be replaced and the emission of harmful substances should be checked; upon receipt of unsatisfactory results, diagnose the engine, identify and eliminate the detected malfunctions.

Removal and installation of the carburetor DAAZ 2101-20. To remove the carburetor, loosen the clamps and remove the crankcase ventilation hose. Unscrew the four nuts securing the outlet pipe, loosen the clamp, remove the pipe with the gasket, and remove the fuel supply hose from the carburetor pipe and close the hose with a stopper to prevent gasoline from leaking.

Disconnect the air damper drive cable from the carburetor and the thrust and return spring from the throttle drive lever, unscrew the carburetor fastening nuts, remove it together with the gasket and close the inlet pipe inlet with a plug.

Install the carburetor in the reverse order of removal. After installation, it is necessary to adjust the drive of the air damper and carburetor throttles, as well as the speed of the crankshaft when the engine is idling.

Disassembly, inspection and assembly of the carburetor DAAZ 2101-20. The carburetor is disassembled into the following main components: a housing cover assembly with a starting device, a float, a needle valve and a filter; body assembly with diffusers and accelerator pump; throttle body assembly with throttle valves and spool device of the crankcase ventilation system.

Rice. 74. Details of the cover and throttle body of the carburetor DAAZ-2101-20: 1 - adjusting screw; 2 - cover; 3, 17, 21, 34 - springs; 4 - diaphragm; 5 - diaphragm rod; 6 - body starting device; 7 - telescopic rod; 8 - axis of the air damper; 9 - air damper; 10 - carburetor cover; 11 - gasket; 12 - carburetor body; 13 - axis of the secondary throttle valve; 14 - axis of the primary throttle valve; 15 - throttle valve; 16 - screw for adjusting the composition of the mixture; 18 - fitting to the vacuum corrector of the breaker-distributor; 19 - spool; 20 - stop screw; 22 - primary throttle axis lever; 23 - lever connection with the starting device; 24 - bushing; 25 - secondary throttle actuator lever; 26 - damper drive lever; 27 - lock washer; 28 - return spring of the secondary throttle actuator lever; 29 - thrust starting device; 30 - secondary throttle lever; 31 - throttle body: 32 - gasket; 33 - thrust starting device

Before dismantling, it is necessary to wash the carburetor from the outside and blow it with compressed air. Disassembly is recommended in the following order:

remove the spring 28 (Fig. 74) of the lever 25 of the throttle valve drive of the secondary chamber, unpin and disconnect from the lever 23 of the throttle valve the rod 29 connecting the throttle valve of the primary chamber with the starting device;

pressing the inner cylinder of telescopic rod 7 into the outer one, disconnect it from the air damper control lever;

remove the carburetor cover with the gasket, being careful not to damage the gasket and the float, then unscrew the screws securing the throttle body to the carburetor body and carefully, without skew, separate them, trying not to damage the transition bushings of the carburetor air fuel channels and bushing sockets pressed into the body. Carefully detach the heat-insulating gasket from the housing and remove it;

disassemble the carburetor body cover in the following order: carefully push the axle 20 (Fig. 75) of the float out of the racks with a mandrel (push it towards the rack with a cut) and remove the axle, remove the float 19 and the needle valve 16, cover gasket. Unscrew the seat 15 of the needle valve, unscrew the plug 18 and remove fuel filter 17;

disconnect (see Fig. 74) from the lever of the axis 8 of the air damper the telescopic rod 7 and the rod 33 of the starter drive;

remove the case 6 of the starting device, air damper 9 from the axle, and then remove the axle from the carburetor cover. The ends of the air damper fastening screws are punched. To unscrew them, a lot of force may be required and the damper axis may be deformed. In order to prevent deformation of the axis, it is recommended to put some kind of stand under it.

After disassembly, wash the parts in gasoline, blow with compressed air and check their technical condition, which must meet the following requirements:

the sealing surfaces of the cover must not be damaged, otherwise the cover must be replaced;

the float must not be damaged or distorted in any way; the mass of the float should be 11 ... 13 g;

the needle valve seat and the valve itself must not show wear on sealing damage; the needle valve must move freely in its seat; The needle valve ball must move freely and not hang.

If damaged parts are found during inspection, they must be replaced.

Rice. 75. Details of the body of the carburetor DAAZ-2101-20: 1 - screw for fastening the cable sheath; 2 - bracket; 3 - cable fastening screw; 4 - air damper drive lever; 5, 25, 32 - springs; 6 - fuel jet of the transition system of the secondary chamber; 7 - jet body; 8 - small diffuser; 9 - spray pump accelerator; 10 - valve screw of the accelerator pump; 11 - valve; 12 - main air jet of the secondary chamber; 13, 22 - emulsion tubes of the secondary and primary chambers; 14 - main air jet of the primary chamber; 15 - needle valve seat; 16 - needle valve; 17 - filter; 18 - cork; 19 - float; 20 - axis; 21 - adjusting screw of the accelerator pump; 23 - main fuel jet of the primary chamber; 24 - main fuel jet of the secondary chamber; 26 - accelerator pump diaphragm; 27 - accelerator pump cover; 28 - jet body; 29 - idle fuel jet: 30 - carburetor body; 31 - throttle opening adjustment screw; 33 - locking spring; 34 - toxicity screw; 35 - plug.

Next, the starting device is disassembled, while unscrewing (see Fig. 74) three screws securing the cover 2 of the device, remove the cover with the adjusting screw 1, spring 3 and diaphragm 4. After disassembly, all parts of the starting device are cleaned, washed with gasoline, blown with compressed air and inspect - damaged ones are replaced with new ones. When disassembling the throttle body, it is necessary to unscrew the screw 16 for adjusting the idle mixture, unscrew the screws securing the dampers 15 to the axles, and remove the throttles from the axles. The ends of the screws for fastening the throttle valves are punched, therefore, when unscrewing the screws, as well as when removing the air damper, it is recommended to install a stand under the throttle axles.

Next, unscrew the nut for fastening the levers on the axis of the throttle valve of the primary chamber, remove the lock washer from the axis of the throttle valve of the primary chamber, the levers 26, 25, 23 with washers and bushing 24, and then the compression spring 21 of the spool and spool 19.

The axis 14 of the throttle valve of the primary chamber is removed from the housing 31, the nut securing the lever 30 on the axis of the throttle valve of the secondary chamber is unscrewed, the lever with the washer is removed and the axis 13 of the throttle valve of the secondary chamber is removed.

Clean the parts and wash them with gasoline or acetone. Channels and parts of the crankcase ventilation spool device are recommended to be washed with a mixture of 30% monobutyl ether glycol ethylene and 70% gasoline. Inspect parts, replace damaged ones.

The holes of the axes of the throttles are cleaned with a reamer having a diameter equal to the nominal diameter of the holes (8.020 ... 8.042 mm).

If the holes are heavily worn, then it is necessary to expand them to a diameter of 8.520 ... 8.542 mm (0.5 mm more than the nominal) and, during assembly, install repair size axles increased in diameter by 0.5 mm.

unscrew the screw securing the lever 4 of the air damper drive, remove the lever, spring 5, remove the cover 27 of the accelerator pump with return spring 25;

unscrew the main air jets 12 and 14, turn the body over and, lightly tapping on it, shake out the emulsion tubes 13 and 22 from the wells, then unscrew the bodies 7 and 28 of the jets and take them out together with the jets 6 and 29, unscrew the valve screw 10 and remove the atomizer 9 accelerator pump with gaskets, then unscrew the adjusting screw 21 of the accelerator pump and the screw 31 for adjusting the opening of the throttle valves and remove the small diffusers 8, unscrew the main fuel jets 23 and 24 and remove the bracket 2, on which the sheath of the air damper control cable is attached ; remove plug 35 and unscrew screw 34 with spring 33.

The carburetor body is cleaned of dirt and oil. Rinse the body and its channels with gasoline or acetone and blow with compressed air. If necessary, channels and emulsion wells are cleaned with special reamers. The sealing surfaces of the housing are inspected; if they are damaged, the housing should be replaced.

Accelerator pump parts are cleaned, washed and blown with compressed air. Check the ease of movement of the ball in the valve screw 10 (see Fig. 75) and the condition of the sealing surfaces and gaskets. Check the ease of movement of the moving elements of the pump (lever, roller, diaphragm parts). Eating is not allowed. The diaphragm must be intact and not deformed. Even a slight deformation of the diaphragm affects the operation of the pump. Damaged parts are replaced with new ones.

Jets and emulsion tubes are cleaned of dirt and resinous deposits, washed with acetone or gasoline and blown with dry compressed air. The jets are compared in terms of throughput with the reference ones.

It is not recommended to clean the jets with a metal tool or wire, as well as wipe the jets and other parts of the carburetor with cotton, cloth or rags. In case of severe clogging, the jets should be cleaned with a soft wood needle, abundantly moistened with acetone.

The assembly of the carburetor is carried out in the reverse order of development. In this case, the float must rotate freely on its axis, without touching the walls of the chamber, the needle valve must slide freely in its seat, without distortions, the valve leash must not impede the movement of the float tongue.

When installing the air damper and throttle dampers, the ends of the mounting screws must be punched out using a stand similar to the one used during disassembly. After assembly, the carburetor components must be adjusted.

Carburetor adjustment DAAZ 2101-20. The position of the throttle valve of the secondary chamber is adjusted (see Fig. 31, b) with screw 27. In the position of lever 28, corresponding to the full closing of the throttle valves, the throttle valve of the secondary chamber should be slightly ajar. The gap between the throttle valve and the chamber wall at the outlet of the channels of the transition system should be no more than 0.02 ... 0.03 mm.

In the position of lever 28, in which the protrusion of sector 29 is in contact with lever 31, the throttle valve of the primary chamber must be ajar by (7 ± 0.25) mm. This gap can be obtained by bending the ledge of sector 29. Both throttle valves must be fully open when the lever 28 is turned to the extreme position until sector 29 stops against a special tide on the throttle body. This position of the throttle valves is adjusted by bending the lower ledge of sector 29.

The starting device is adjusted as follows (see Fig. 31, b). When the lever 20 is turned counterclockwise until it stops, the air damper must be completely closed, and in this position of the lever, the end of the rod 22 must be at the end of the groove of the diaphragm rod 23 of the starting device, but it is not allowed to move the rod. This requirement is met by 1 l by bending the rod 22. With the throttle valve of the primary chamber completely closed, it must be covered by 1.2 ... 1.3 mm (the distance between the throttle valve and the chamber wall at the location of the idle system vias). This gap is adjusted by bending the rod 35. A fully closed air damper should open by (7 ± 0.25) mm with the diaphragm rod 23 of the starting device when moving it manually to the right until it stops. This gap is adjusted by screw 24.

The performance of the accelerator pump is checked for 10 full turns (strokes) of the throttle control lever 28, the fuel that comes out of the sprayer 45 (see Fig. 31, d) is collected in a beaker during these 10 moves. Its volume should be 5.25 ... 8.75 cm3.

Rice. 76. Setting the fuel level in the float chamber of the carburetor DAAZ 2101-20: 1-carburetor cover: 2-needle valve seat; 3-needle valve; 4-emphasis; 5- ball of the needle valve; 6-retractable fork of the valve needle; 7-bracket float; 8 tongue; 9-float; 10-gasket.

Before starting the test, it is necessary to make 10 trial strokes with lever 28 (see Fig. 31, b) to fill the channels of the accelerator pump.

The tightness of the needle valve is checked on a stand that supplies fuel to the carburetor at a pressure of 3 m of water. Art. After setting the level in the test tube of the stand, its fall is not allowed for 10...15 s. If the level of fuel in the vial drops, this indicates a fuel leak through the needle valve.

Setting the fuel level in the float chamber. For DAAZ 2101-20 carburetors, checking the fuel level in the float chamber is not provided.

The level required for the normal operation of the carburetor is ensured by the correct installation of serviceable elements of the locking device (Fig. 76): the float assembly should not have any visible damage, the weight of the float should be 11 ... 13 g; the distance between the float and gasket 10 adjacent to the carburetor cover should be (6.5 ± 0.25) mm.

The control is carried out with a gauge, the housing cover is held vertically so that the tongue 8 of the float slightly touches the ball 5 of the needle valve 3 without sinking it: the size (6.5 ± 0.25) mm is adjusted by bending the tongue 8, while it is necessary that the support platform the tongue was perpendicular to the axis of the needle valve and had no notches or dents; the gap corresponding to the maximum stroke of the float should be (8 ± 0.25) mm. It is regulated by bending the stop 4, the fork 6 should not interfere with the free movement of the float. After installing the carburetor, you need to make sure that the float does not touch the walls of the float chamber.

Proper float installation should be checked each time the float or fuel needle valve is replaced; when replacing the needle valve, the valve seal must be replaced.

Adjustment of frequency of rotation of a cranked shaft at idle. The elements that regulate the speed of the crankshaft when the engine is idling include (see Fig. 30) screw 11 of the mixture composition and screw 2, which limits the opening of the throttle. When screw 11 is screwed in, the mixture becomes leaner; when screw 2 is screwed in, the throttle valve opens slightly. A restrictive plastic sleeve is pressed onto screw 11, which allows turning the screw only one turn. Therefore, before adjusting at the station Maintenance it is necessary, by unscrewing the screw 11, to break the protrusion of the sleeve, unscrew the screw, remove the sleeve from it and again screw the screw into the carburetor. After completing the adjustment, press a new restrictive plastic sleeve onto screw II in such a position that the protrusion of the sleeve, touching the stop in the hole, does not allow the screw to be unscrewed.

Idling adjustment is carried out on a warm engine (oil temperature 60 ... 70 ° C) with adjusted gaps in the gas distribution mechanism and with a correctly set ignition timing.

Adjustment is carried out in the following sequence (see Fig. 30):

set the maximum crankshaft speed with screw 11 at a given throttle position, and then set the minimum stable crankshaft speed with screw 2;

using screw 11 to achieve a concentration of CO in the exhaust gases of not more than 1.5% at a given position of the throttle valve and using screw 2 to restore the crankshaft speed to 950 ... 1050 rpm;

set the idle speed of the crankshaft equal to 0.6 nominal revolutions (2700 ... 2800 rpm), and check the CO concentration in the exhaust gases, which should be no more than 1%, if necessary, achieve the CO concentration with screw 7. After that, once again check the concentration of CO in the exhaust gases when idling with a crankshaft speed of 950 ... 1050 rpm and reach a concentration of not more than 1.5%;

put plug 35 (see Fig. 75) into the screw hole. In the absence of a gas analyzer, adjustment can be carried out in the following order:

use screw 2 (see Fig. 30) to set the minimum stable crankshaft speed, and then use screw 11 to achieve engine operation at maximum crankshaft speed at a given throttle position;

reduce the throttle opening with screw 2 until a minimum stable speed is obtained and, turning screw 11, set the crankshaft speed at which the engine runs with noticeable interruptions, and then unscrew the screw by 30 ... 60 ° (no more) until a stable engine operation;

Check the adjustment by depressing the throttle pedal sharply and releasing it. The engine must not be stopped.

Removal and installation of carburetor drives. To remove the throttle actuator rod assembly with cable and sheath, you must:

unscrew the screw 14 (see Fig. 32) fastening the cable to the carburetor rod and release the cable;

unpin the finger, disconnect the cable from pedal 3 and remove it completely from the tube laid in the floor tunnel; bend the bracket 18 for attaching the shell to the engine bracket;

unscrew the two bolts securing the fuel tank clamps to the floor of the body (after removing backseat) and slightly lift the tank up to release the shells of the carburetor rods;

remove the shell from the rubber seals (on the walls of the body).

The throttle cable is installed in the reverse order.

To remove the air damper rod from the vehicle, you must release the fuel tank mount (as described above), and then (see Fig. 32):

disconnect the rod 12 and the shell 9 from the carburetor 13, for which loosen the screws 10 and bolt II;

pull the button 4 of the air damper drive rod and completely remove it from the shell;

disconnect and remove the gearbox control mechanism from the tunnel (see subsection “Gearbox control mechanism”) and bend the shell fastening bracket located in the tunnel;

unscrew the two screws 6 fastening the bracket 5 to the tunnel and remove the bracket with the shell from the tunnel, then separate the shell retainer 7 from the bracket 6 with a screwdriver.

The assembly of the air damper control actuator and its installation is carried out in the reverse order.

Carburetor drive adjustment. After dismantling and mounting drives to the carburetor dampers or installing new ones, appropriate adjustment should be made.

It is recommended to adjust the carburetor throttle control drive as follows (see Fig. 32): loosen the screw (bolt) 14 securing the rod 17 and use pliers to tighten the end of the rod until the pedal 3 is set to its highest position; fix the rod in this position with a screw. With proper drive adjustment, the carburetor throttle should be fully closed when the pedal is released and fully open when the pedal is fully depressed.

The air damper drive should be adjusted in the following order: loosen the bolt (screw) 11 that fastens the rod to the carburetor air damper swivel coupling and lower the air damper drive button 4 to its lowest position; without moving the rod in the shell, fully open the air damper and in this position fix the rod with bolt (screw) 11. The shell 9 of the rod must be tightly tightened with screw 10, the shell protruding beyond the bracket is not allowed.

pressure plate with the casing assembly are statically balanced, the permissible unbalance is not more than 20 g-cm. The increased imbalance is eliminated by drilling the metal in the radial direction along the outer diameter of the pressure disk 10. The metal is removed with a drill with a diameter of 7 mm (drilling depth up to 6 mm) with a distance from the working end of the disk to the drilling center of 6 mm.

When balancing, the pressure disk (Fig. 78) is installed on the control holes a. After balancing, marks b are applied to the pressure plate and casing to prevent displacements during reassembly and imbalance in this case. Marks b are applied on one of the projections of the pressure plate and on a flat area of the surface of the clutch housing.

driven disk(Fig. 79), which transmits rotation from the engine to the drive shaft of the gearbox, has a damper (damper) designed to eliminate the harmful effects of torsional vibrations of the engine crankshaft in the vehicle transmission, as well as to reduce stress in the transmission elements,

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Rice. 79. Clutch disc assembly: 1 - spring plate; 2 - friction lining; 3, 4 - rivets; 5 - damper spring; 6 - hub; 7 - damper ring; eight - damper plate; 9 - finger; 10 - driven disk; 11 - place of installation of balancing weights; 12 - places for removing the material of friction linings during static balancing;

B - free size; G - the size in the compressed state under pressure of compression springs

On the inner surface of the rear wall of the crankcase (Fig. 80) there are lugs 9 and 10. Polyamide bushings 2 and 8 are installed in the holes of the lugs and the axis 3 of the fork of the clutch release mechanism is mounted. Axial movement of axis 3 is set to 0.1...0.5 mm by selection of adjusting washers 6 and is limited by retaining ring 7.

A fork 5 for disengaging the clutch is installed on the axis 3, which is fixed with a spacer wedge 16 with a spring washer 15 and a nut 14, which is tightened with a force of 2.2 ... 3.2 kgf-m.

The return spring 4 returns the fork 5 with the axis 3 of the fork and the lever when the clutch is engaged and provides free travel of the clutch pedal. The spring 4 is loosely put on the axle 3 of the fork, one end rests against the wall of the crankcase 1, and the other, with a special mustache, captures the fork 5.

Before assembly, the inner surface of the bushings 2 and 8, as well as the bearing surfaces of the fork 5, must be lubricated with grease No. 000 or Litol-24.

CLUTCH OPERATION

For normal operation of the clutch mechanism and its drive, it is necessary to maintain the free play of the outer end of the clutch release fork and the full stroke of the piston rod of the working cylinder when the clutch pedal is pressed to failure within the required limits.

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Rice. 81. Device for disassembling and assembling the clutch: 1 - plate; 2 - support; 3, 6 - screws; 4 - clamping bracket; 5 - clamp handle; 7 - emphasis; 8 - clamp screw

Before disassembly, the clutch is cleaned of dirt and wiped dry.

Install the clutch cover assembly with the pressure plate (see. Fig. 78) in a tool for disassembling and assembling the clutch and cut the shoulders of the adjusting nuts 4 pressed into the grooves of the fingers 5. Unscrew and remove the adjusting nuts 4, support washers 3, heel 8, levers 7 and springs 12.

Unscrew the handle 5 (see Fig. 81) of the fixture and remove the fixture bracket and casing 1 (see Fig. 78), the cups 9 of the pressure springs, the pressure springs 11 and the heat-insulating gaskets 10. Remove the retaining ring 7 (see Fig. 80) and adjusting washers 6 from the axis 3 of the fork.

Unscrew the nut 14, remove the washer 15, carefully knock out the wedge 16, remove the bushing axle from the sockets of the clutch housing and the hole of the clutch release fork 5. Remove the return spring 4, two connecting links 13, the clip 11 of the clutch release bearing and bushings 2 and 8. Insert two screwdrivers between the seal shoulder and the clutch housing, press out the clutch housing oil seal (only if replacement is necessary).

Checking the condition of parts. The need to check the details of the clutch mechanism usually arises when the friction linings or the graphite thrust bearing are worn. The rest of the parts wear out slightly, and their wear does not lead to a loss of the mechanism's performance. When inspecting a disassembled clutch, it is necessary to carefully check its parts.

Toclutch arter. The sealing surfaces of the crankcase must not have scratches, nicks or cracks. Risks and nicks should be cleaned, if cracks are found, weld or replace the crankcase. Check the dimensions of the bushings and the axle of the fork (see Appendix 2), the gap between the bushings and the axle should not exceed 0.6 mm. When the gap increases, the bushings are replaced.

driven disk. It is necessary to make sure that the disc hub can be easily moved along the splines of the gearbox input shaft. With a large wear of the splines of the hub or shaft (hub misalignment in bulk), the worn parts are replaced. Friction linings must not be oily, broken, burned or worn to the rivet heads. Otherwise, the pads are replaced, since in the presence of these deviations, the coefficient of friction between the driving and driven elements decreases, which leads to slipping of the clutch when the car accelerates or when the resistance to its movement increases.

They check the condition of the ends along the outer diameter and the elasticity of the springs 5 (see Fig. 79) of the damper. At the ends and outer diameter of the torsional vibration damper springs should not have traces of rubbing and wear with a depth of more than 0.2 mm. The length of the spring in the free state should be 24.25 ... 24.75 mm, and when compressed with a load of 42 ... 50 kgf - 21.5 mm. The friction moment in the torsional vibration damper of the driven clutch disc is in the range of 0.375 ... 09 kgf m, while the friction surfaces of the driven disc 10, damper plate 8, hub 6, damper rings 7 must be clean and dry.

When riveting new friction linings, attention should be paid to ensure that every second hole in the lining is drilled through, and riveting is carried out in such a way that both linings are individually riveted through one hole in the plate. After riveting the friction linings, the driven disk assembly is checked for runout of the working surfaces of the linings relative to the hub axis (on the mandrel or on the drive shaft of the gearbox), which should be no more than 0.75 mm, and static balancing is performed. Permissible unbalance is 15 g-cm, which is achieved by installing balancing weights (see pos. 11 in Fig. 79) or by removing friction lining material.

Check the thickness of the disc assembly in the free state, which should be 8.1 ... 8.7 mm.

Clutch pressure plate. Check the non-flatness of the working surface of the pressure plate 2 (see Fig. 78). Non-flatness is allowed no more than 0.05 mm. If there are ring marks on the working surface, the disc must be ground. Grinding the pressure plate and the resulting decrease in its thickness reduces the total working force of the pressure springs 11. To maintain this force, when assembling the clutch, it is necessary to install washers under the thermal insulation pads 10. The thickness of the washer should be equal to the thickness of the metal layer removed during grinding. The side surfaces of the three protrusions should not have wear of more than 0.2 mm.

The pressure levers 7 and the working surfaces under the support and heel of the pressure plate should not have wear of more than 0.2 mm.

Pressure springs. Check the elasticity of the springs. According to the value of the working force required to compress the springs to size

31 mm, they are sorted into two groups: with a working force of 50.5 ... 53.5 kgf, which are marked in brown, and with a working force of 53.5 ... 56.5 kgf, which are marked in green. One clutch put pressure springs of the same color.

Clutch release bearing. Increased bearing wear occurs if the free play of the clutch pedal is not adjusted during the operation of the car, as well as when the car is not driven correctly, i.e. when they unnecessarily keep their foot on the clutch pedal. The surfaces of the trunnions of the cage should not have wear of more than 0.3 mm, otherwise the thrust bearing assembly should be replaced. Inspect the combined ball bearing. If the axial run-out of the bearing is more than 0.35 mm, the bearing must be replaced.

Check the presence of lubrication in the bearing, in the absence of lubrication (dry rolling of balls), the bearing is replaced or filled with grease. To do this, without disassembling, they wash it in gasoline and dry it. Lubricant LZ-31 is heated in the bath to a temperature of 150 ... 170 ° C and the bearing assembly is placed in it for 15 ... 20 minutes, then the bath is cooled to a temperature not exceeding 50 ° C, the bearing is removed and wiped from the outside.

Gearbox drive shaft needle bearing (front). Check the freedom of rotation of the bearing assembly with the bolt. Rotation should be free, without jamming. The bearing is washed and filled with refractory grease No. 000 in the amount of 2 ... 3 g. The grease is injected from the side of the threaded part of the bolt.

Clutch assembly. Assembly is carried out in the reverse order, taking into account the following:

when installing (see Fig. 77) the cuff 9 in the clutch housing 10, it is necessary to lubricate the outer diameter and the working edge of the cuff with oil for the gearbox and check the correct installation of the spring "cuff. Then install (see Fig. 80) bushings 2 and 8, lubricating working journals of axle 3 with grease No. 000, assembling it with spring 4 and release fork 5. Tighten nut 14 of wedge 16 (tightening torque 2.2...3.2 kgf-m).

Check and, if necessary, set the axial displacement of the axis 3 within 0.1 ... 0.5 mm, which is ensured by the selection of washers 6;

install clip 11 with thrust bearing 12 on fork 5, lubricating the pins of the clip with grease No. 000, and fix it with brackets;

assemble the clutch pressure plate with the casing. Before assembly (see Fig. 78), lightly grease the bearing surfaces of washer 3, thrust posts 6, levers 7 and heels 8 with grease No. 000;

preliminarily adjust the position of the heel to a size of 52 mm ± 0.37 mm, do not lock the adjusting nuts 4 (see Fig. 78);

remove the clutch assembly from the fixture and bleed it by pressing the heel of the levers using a lever or screw press. In this case, the heel stroke should be II mm, the number of strokes

Installationand final clutch adjustment. A mandrel is installed (the drive shaft of the gearbox can be used as a mandrel) in the bearing 12 (see Fig. 77) of the drive shaft of the gearbox, the bearing surface of the flywheel is wiped and the clutch disc is installed along the splines of the mandrel. Install the disc with the casing assembly on the flywheel, while aligning the numbers printed on the clutch casing and on the flywheel (see view A in Fig. 77). This preserves the mutual position of the parts that was during the dynamic balancing of the crankshaft assembly with the flywheel and clutch. Attach the clutch with bolts 3 to the flywheel with a tightening torque of 1.6 ... 2 kgf-m.

Prepare a fixture (see Fig. 42) for the final budding of the position of the clutch heel on the engine. A jumper 2 with an indicator is installed on the mounting plate 5 along the ^t ^l stand / heel, setting an interference of 0.5 ... 1 mm and aligning the indicator arrow with zero. The control post ^ is set to a nominal installation size of the heel equal to 52 mm ± 0.37 mm. Install the heel runout tester on the crankcase studs and secure it.

The position of the heel is adjusted by the size (52 ± 0.37) mm and the mutual beating of the plane (see Fig. 77) of the clutch heel relative to the flywheel by unscrewing or tightening the adjusting nuts 18. When adjusting, the levers 16 should be moved to the extreme position from the center until they stop rack 17, i.e. there should be no gap in the connection. The runout of the plane b of the heel 15 should be no more than 0.1 mm.

After adjusting the heel runout, it is necessary to lock the adjusting nuts 18 by pressing the shoulder on the nuts into the longitudinal slot at the ends of the pins 19. After locking the nuts, the heel runout should not exceed 0.8 mm.

DESIGN FEATURES OF THE CLUTCH RELEASE DRIVE

The car uses a hydraulic drive for disengaging the cordon (Fig. 82). The clutch pedal is suspended on an axle, on which a plastic bushing is put on, and attached to a bracket installed in the trunk of the body. To prevent the penetration of dust and cold air into the body, the pedal is sealed with a rubber slotted seal. In the highest position. the pedal is held by a retractable spring.

The pedal is pivotally connected to the clutch release master cylinder with a finger, shims are installed between the pedal and the walls of the pusher lug, and shims are installed between the master cylinder flange and the bracket. The feed tank is attached to the inner panel shelf above the master cylinder.

The main and working cylinders are interconnected by two steel pipelines. The first pipeline is laid along the floor tunnel. The passage of the pipeline from the body is carried out through the coupling. The pipeline laid from the coupling to the clutch housing has a spiral in the middle part that compensates for the change in the length of the pipeline when swinging power unit suspended on rubber pads. The slave cylinder is attached to the clutch housing. The clutch release fork lever, with the help of a release spring, constantly presses the working cylinder rod against the piston and moves the latter to its extreme forward position.

The clutch master cylinder (Fig. 83) consists of a cast iron housing, a zinc alloy piston with a rubber sealing collar that keeps fluid from flowing out of the cylinder. Six through holes are made in the piston head, covered with a thin steel ring - a valve and an internal rubber cuff. The spring presses the cuff to the piston, and the piston to the thrust washer held in the cylinder by a retaining ring. The rear end of the master cylinder is closed with a threaded fitting with a sealing gasket. A pusher enters the inner cavity of the piston, having a fork at the end connected to the pedal. To protect the cylinder from dust and dirt, a rubber boot is used, the back of which enters the groove on the cylinder, and the front wraps around the rod. The clutch release master cylinder has an inner diameter of 19 mm.

The clutch release slave cylinder (see Fig. 83) has an inner diameter of 22 mm.

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Rice. 83. The main and working cylinders of the clutch release drive: 1 - cap; 2 - valve; 3 - body of the working cylinder; 4 - spring; 5 - fitting; 6 - washer; 7 - body of the main cylinder; 8 - cork; 9 - washer; 10 - pusher; 11, 18 - protective caps; 12 - piston; 13 - outer cuff; 14 - thrust washer; 15, 19 - retaining rings; 16 - valve; 17 - inner cuff; 20 - piston; 21 - sealing cuff; 22 - adjusting nut; 23 - locknut; 24 - spacer fungus; pusher; 26 - spring.

unscrew the fitting of the 5th cylinder and, using a wooden drift, remove the piston with the outer cuff, the piston valve, the inner cuff and the piston return spring from the cylinder.

The disassembled parts of the clutch release drive are thoroughly washed, inspected and determined for suitability for further work. Details of the working and master cylinders of the clutch drive are washed in denatured alcohol, alcohol or fresh brake fluid.

The assembly of the clutch release actuator is carried out in the reverse order, taking into account the following instructions.

All parts of the working and master cylinders, as well as the inner cavity of the cylinders, must be lubricated with castor oil or fresh brake fluid before assembly. When connecting the pedal 14 (see Fig. 82) with the push fork, adjust the shims 21 between the fork and the pedal so that the pusher is located coaxially with the main cylinder.

The pedal connected to the pusher of the clutch release master cylinder must have a full travel of at least 150 mm (stroke from the upper extreme position to the floor of the body). If the pedal travel is less than 150 mm, it is necessary to install an additional gasket 27 between the bracket 24 and the support flange of the main cylinder 26. If the pedal travel significantly exceeds 150 mm, remove the gasket.

Clutch pedal free travel adjustment. The free play of the pedal in the center of its platform is measured with a measuring ruler, while pressing the pedal with your finger until a noticeable resistance to the movement of the pedal appears. It should be within 26 ... 38 mm.

To adjust the free play of the pedal, remove (see Fig. 82) the release spring 5 and turn the lever 4 until the thrust bearing 2 rests against the heel 3 of the release levers, while the stroke of the lever 4 at the end "(near the rod of the working cylinder) should be 4 ... 5 mm, which corresponds to the gap between the fifth and the bearing 2.4 ... 3.4 mm If the specified size is smaller, hold the pusher 8 with a wrench, release the lock nut 7 and, screwing the adjusting nut 6 onto the pusher 8 and checking the stroke of the lever, set its free play within 4...5 mm, then lock the adjusting nut 6 and put on the release spring 5.

Filling the system with liquid and removing air from it. To refuel the hydraulic drive for disengaging the clutch, the same fluid is used as for the hydraulic drive of the brakes of the car.

Work is recommended to be carried out in the following order: fill a clean glass transparent vessel with a capacity of approximately 0.5 liters from 1/3 to 1/2 of the height with brake fluid, remove the plug from the neck of the nutrient tank and fill it with fluid to the nominal level (see subsection “Brakes »);

clean the air release valve on the working cylinder from dust and dirt, remove the rubber cap from the valve and put a rubber hose on the valve head to pump the brake hydraulic system, immersing the free end of the hose in a vessel with liquid;

sharply press the clutch pedal with your foot Sequentially 2 ... 3 times (with an interval between pressing 1 ... 2 s), and then, leaving the pedal depressed, unscrew the air release valve by 0.5 ... 1 turn (these operations are recommended do it together):

smoothly releasing and sharply pressing the pedal, continue to bleed the system until the release of air bubbles from the hose completely stops. During pumping, it is necessary to add brake fluid to the nutrient tank, preventing the level in it from dropping by 1/3 of the normal value. After the exit of air bubbles from the hose stops, while holding the pedal depressed, screw the air release valve to the stop. Next, remove the hose from the valve, put a cap on the valve head, add liquid to the reservoir to a normal level and replace the reservoir cap.

After pumping, it is necessary to check the stroke of the piston rod of the working cylinder, corresponding to the full stroke of the pedal. This stroke of the rod should be about 22 mm with a pedal stroke of at least 150 mm. It is allowed to reduce the stroke of the rod to 19 mm, provided that a “clean” (complete) disengagement of the clutch is ensured with a free stroke of the lever of at least 4 mm. A stroke of less than 19 mm does not ensure normal operation of the clutch and indicates the presence of air in the system and the need to bleed it. With a properly pumped clutch hydraulic system, shockless engagement of first gear is ensured. If, when the clutch pedal is depressed to the stop (with the system fully adjusted and pumped), shock engagement of the first gear occurs, you should make sure that the clutch mechanism is working.

GEARBOX AND FINAL GEAR WITH DIFFERENTIAL

DESIGN FEATURES OF GEARBOX AND FINAL DRIVE WITH DIFFERENTIAL

Gearbox (Fig. 84) - mechanical, two-shaft, three-way, four-speed with four gears forward and one reverse, made in one crankcase with the main gear. All gearbox gears except reversing, - helical constant meshing. Reverse drive and driven gears are made with straight teeth. Gears 1, II, III and IV gears are switched on with the help of synchronizers. gear ratios gearboxes: 1-3.8; II-2.1 18; III-1.409; IV-0.964; reverse gear-4,156.

Details of the gearbox and differential are placed in the crankcase made of magnesium alloy ML-5. To increase rigidity, the cavity of the gearbox housing is divided into three sections by partitions with bores for bearings of the drive gear, main gear, drive and intermediate shafts. In the first section, on the flywheel side, the main gear is located, in the second section - gears of 1 and II gears and reverse gears, in the third section gears of III and IV gears, as well as a speedometer drive are placed.

The front part of the gearbox housing is attached to the clutch housing. The seats of the gearbox housing and the clutch housing are machined together, so the gearbox housing is not interchangeable.

The rear part of the gearbox housing is closed by a cover, in the cavity of which the gear shift mechanism is placed. In the upper part of the rear cover there is a M16X1.5 threaded hole for installing a signaling device for reverse gear. The machined plane at the end of the rear cover is used to attach the bracket, which is the rear attachment point of the power unit to the car body.

The drive shaft / / gearbox (see Fig. 84) rotates on two bearings: the front end of the shaft on a needle bearing pressed into the flywheel bolt, and the rear end on bearing 12 installed in the gearbox housing bore. The thrust split ring mounted on the bearing 12 and the ring 14 mounted on the drive shaft prevent the bearing and shaft from moving backward. They are kept from moving forward by the cover 13 of the rear bearing.

At the front end of the drive shaft, splines are cut for a sliding fit of the clutch disc. In the middle part of the shaft, located inside the gearbox, a helical gear is cut, which is in constant engagement with the driven gear 27 of gear 1 (see Fig. 84) and the intermediate driven gear 33 (Fig. 85) reverse. The axial force arising from the transmission of torque by the drive shaft is perceived by the ball bearing 12 (see Fig. 84). Behind the gear at the rear end of the drive shaft there are involute splines that engage with the hub of the intermediate shaft 3. The drive shaft is sealed by a self-compressing rubber gland with an oil extraction thread.

The intermediate shaft of the gearbox is hollow, made as one piece with the 2nd gear drive gear, rotates on two bearings: front roller 8 and rear ball. Bushing 2 of the shift slider rod is pressed into the inner hole of the shaft.

On the intermediate shaft on double-row needle bearings 6, the needles of which roll on bushings 10, drive gears 7 and 4 rotate gear III and IV. Bushings of 10 gears are the same for 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears. To limit axial movements from the forces arising on the helical gears during the transmission of torque, thrust washers 9 are installed. The necessary axial movement of the gears within 0.258 ... 0.394 mm is provided by the length of the bushings.

Oil for lubricating needle bearings is supplied by spraying through the figured cutouts of thrust washers 9 and 26. Between the bushings and thrust washers, a hub with a clutch 5 is installed on splines. Synchronizer crackers 23 are inserted into the grooves of the hub, pressed against the surface of the splines of the coupling 5 by two spring rings 24. Brass rings 22 of the synchronizers are installed on the right and left sides of the synchronizer hub.

The set mounted on the intermediate shaft is tightened with nut 39, tightening torque 12 ... 16 kgf-m. The nut is locked with a lock washer 38, the bent mustache of which enters the grooves at the end of the intermediate shaft.

The axis of the splined shaft 28 (see Fig. 85) of the reverse gear is pressed into the holes of the front and middle walls of the crankcase and is additionally held by the mustache of the cover, which is included in the groove at the front end of the axis. The diameter of the front end of the axle on a length of 27 mm is greater than the diameter of the rest of the axle by 0.04 mm. Accordingly, the hole in the front wall of the crankcase is also enlarged, which facilitates assembly and disassembly of the assembly.

On the axis 28 (see Fig. 85), on bronze bushings 29, a splined shaft 30 rotates freely with a helical intermediate driven reverse gear 33 pressed on the front end, which is in constant engagement with the drive shaft gear. A spur intermediate gear 31 of the reverse slides freely along the splines of the shaft 30, which is engaged with the driven gear 25 by the fork 32 (see Fig. 84) when the reverse gear is turned on, i.e., to turn on the reverse gear, you need to turn on only one pair of gears.

The axial movement of the splined shaft 30 (see Fig. 85) within 0.3 ... 0.5 mm is set by selecting the thickness of the shim 27.

https://pandia.ru/text/78/063/images/image098_0.gif" width="314" height="375 src="> Gearboxes" href="/text/category/reduktori/" rel="bookmark"> speedometer drive gear; 42 - bolt; 43 - spring washer; 44 spline shaft axis.

I continue to walk my yellow zazik, adding variety to the traffic flow of the city. As a rule, the operation of a 40-year-old car makes its own adjustments. That is what happened this time as well. Returning on Sunday evening from friends, our path lay through Leningradka with all the attributes of an evening arrival in the city. After 10 km of pushing through traffic jams, closer to the Moscow Ring Road, the clutch pedal began to fail. According to the liquid level, a disappointing conclusion was made, a liquid leak, and judging by its smell, this is something BSC. On the last remnants of the BSC, the first gear was turned on and continued to move with a huge distance. For some reason, this style of movement was not very liked by the rest of the participants in the movement :) But what to do? emergency stop is not equipped.

Having reached the garage, when trying to switch the reverse gear, we got a small puddle under the car. We've arrived...

A cursory examination confirmed the initial diagnosis. Lost clutch slave cylinder.

Slowly began to disassemble the system. Probably the first time in 40 years :)

The desire was to switch to the bunker, so I decided to sort out the clutch master cylinder.

The anther of the working cylinder is torn, but this is not a cause, but rather a consequence. As the autopsy showed, definitely not the reason.

Disassembling the master cylinder, shook something out of it. Reminds me of plastic shavings, but where does it come from? Well, the color of the liquid.

And here is the cause of the breakdown. Internals of the working cylinder. The left upper gum is the cylinder cuff, the one that holds the pressure in the system and transfers it further to the iron piston. The one that was inside resembled plasticine in properties, but not like rubber. This can be achieved by mixing DOT with BSC, we conclude from this. When the liquid level drops in expansion tank clutch, not knowing what was poured in it, a certain amount of pillbox was added, which killed half the rubber bands in the system.

Master cylinder rubbers are more or less in order. By the way, the clutch repair kit that I accidentally found did not have one cuff, and I decided to leave it with the old one, having previously washed it. Which brought me down further. The master cylinder just leaked through the rod. Elastic band on the piston in the upper left corner. I decided not to fence the garden and replaced the entire master cylinder, I also accidentally found it :)

An infernal mixture of DOT + BSK + xs what. A liter refill of DOT-4 was enough for everything.

Clutch of the car ZAZ-965a "Zaporozhets"

On the car ZAZ -965A "Zaporozhets" a single-disk dry clutch with peripherally located springs and with a mechanical drive to turn off the pedal is installed.

A stamped steel clutch casing is bolted to the engine flywheel, in which a pressure plate is installed with six pressure springs located in cups fixed in the casing. Heat-insulating thrust bearings are installed under the springs. This eliminates the possibility of overheating of the springs from the pressure plate, the temperature of which rises when the clutch is engaged due to its slipping. The guide lugs of the pressure plate are included in the slots of the cone ^, which ensures their joint rotation. At the same time, the disk can have longitudinal movements.

Between the flywheel and the pressure plate, a steel split composite driven disc with friction linings is clamped, riveted to a hub mounted on the splines of the clutch shaft. The front end of this shaft is mounted in a needle bearing in the groove of the flywheel mounting bolt, and the rear end is in a ball bearing in the wall of the clutch housing. The bearing is sealed with a self-locking gland. The clutch housing, cast from a light alloy, is attached to the engine crankcase and has a hatch in the lower part, closed by a lid.

On the brackets riveted to the clutch housing, there are three disengagement levers with fixing springs. The outer ends of the levers are connected by adjusting fingers to the pressure plate; a polished cast-iron support ring is fixed to the inner ends of the levers with the help of three locking springs.

Opposite the support ring is a carbon-graphite release bearing that does not require lubrication. The thrust bearing is fixed with its casing in the inner ring of the angular contact ball bearing installed in the holder. The cage is connected to the switching fork by means of two trunnions and locking springs. The fork is pivotally mounted on a pin fixed in the bracket. The bracket is attached to the crankcase. The fork is equipped with a release spring. The outer end of the fork through the hatch, closed with a rubber cover, is brought out and, using a cable equipped with tips, is connected to the lever of the clutch pedal shaft. The roller with the pedal is installed in a bracket fixed in the front part of the body under the driver's feet.

Rice. 1. The clutch of the car ZAZ -965A "Zaporozhets"

When the pedal is released, the clutch is disengaged. When you press the pedal, the fork, turning on the axis, moves the clip. In this case, the carbon-graphite thrust bearing 10 of the cage presses through the support ring on the inner ends of the levers, and their outer ends take the pressure plate away from the flywheel, compressing the springs and disengaging the clutch.

With the clutch engaged, there should be a gap of 2.0 mm between the thrust bearing and the support ring. The gap is adjusted by changing the length of the drive cable using the nut on the rear tip connected to the clutch fork. In this case, the pedal free play should be about 40-50 mm.

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