The list of regulated operations that must be performed for the efficient operation of the car includes replacing the timing belt. This operation will be performed at any car service, but if you want to save money, it is better to master it yourself. The article gives step-by-step instruction how to replace the timing belt on the Volkswagen Passat B3 and B5, as well as a photo gallery and a corresponding video.
When is it time to change?
Replacing the timing belt with a Volkswagen Passat B5 and B3 is carried out according to the recommendations specified in the manual, after 60,000 - 90,000 km of run. But at the same time, you should regularly monitor its condition, since a broken belt is possible. This can have dire consequences in the form of bent valves and damaged pistons, as they meet and damage each other when they break.
The timing belt has the form of a rubber rim with an inner surface in the form of teeth that serve for better grip. The decision on the need to replace the belt is made after a visual inspection. The product must be replaced if the following defects are found:
- cracks and abrasions on the surface;
- teeth are worn, torn, have signs of wear;
- sidewalls are frayed;
- the material is stratified;
- there are oil marks on both surfaces.
During the inspection, attention should be paid to other details of the timing, if any shortcomings are identified, they must be changed. Together with timing belt I would like to change the tensioner.
Replacement consumables
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Replacement process
Before changing the timing belt to the Volkswagen Passat B5, B6 and B3, it is necessary to prepare a place for work. It is more convenient to carry out the replacement on the inspection ditch. The car must be set to the handbrake.
Required Tools
To work, you need to prepare the following tools:
Stages
- Turn off the power to the car by disconnecting the negative terminal.
- Next, the air cleaner is dismantled.
- Having raised the front of the car with a jack, you need to remove the right front wheel and support with a support.
- Then you need to remove the belts of the air conditioner and generator. On the removed products, you need to put marks of the direction in which they rotated in order to install them in the same way during installation.
- Having taken the tensioner as far as possible to the side with the ring wrench, the tension should be loosened. Then you need to insert the rod into the aligned holes of the tension and support rollers and remove.
- Next, snap off the two latches and remove the upper part of the timing cover.
- Then you need to set all the labels correctly. To do this, it is necessary to turn the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt clockwise until the marks on the crankshaft pulleys and the timing cover, the promshaft gear and the crankshaft pulley, on the cylinder head and the camshaft pulley, as well as on the crankshaft flywheel and housing are aligned.
Flywheel mark alignment - Next remove the pulley crankshaft.
- After turning the tensioner counterclockwise and loosening the fixing nut, remove. After that, the crankshaft and camshaft must not be rotated so as not to knock down the marks.
- Now you can change the tension roller.
- A new consumable is installed sequentially on the pulleys, first the crankshaft, then the wash shaft, and lastly on the camshaft pulley. After installation, tension is performed using a tension roller and the marks are checked for coincidence.
- When the belt is installed, assembly is carried out in reverse order.
Details of the gas distribution mechanism
It is important that the marks are correctly set, otherwise the valves can be bent when the engine is turned on.
After the final assembly, you need to check the operation of the engine. Replacement on Passat B6 is carried out similar to B5.
The instruction is suitable for gasoline engines 2.0 L FSI (BLR/BLX/BLY), 2.0 TFSI (AXX/BWA) and 1.6 (BSE).
Withdrawal
2. Switch off ignition and disconnect a negative wire from the storage battery.
3. Remove top cover engine (see)
6. Remove the hood stops, and hang the engine with a special lifting device.
8. Remove noise insulation and locker of the right front wheel.
10. Turn out 4 bolts of fastening of a pulley of a cranked shaft with a vibration damper.
15. Separate the lines of the A/C system from the body (do not open the lines!).
16. Raise the engine so that you can unscrew bolt 2 (see illustration 22. 12 above), and then even more so that you can remove the engine support.
18. Mark the direction of the belt if it is to be reused.
19. Loosen the tension roller and remove the timing belt.
20. Slightly turn a cranked shaft back.
Installation
Note: On TFSI engines The diamond plate behind the crankshaft sprocket must be replaced after removal.
21. Put the timing belt on the crankshaft pulley. Note: If a belt that has already been used is installed, pay attention to the mark indicating the direction of its movement.
22. Attach the lower timing belt cover with the two lower bolts.
23. Establish a pulley of a cranked shaft and tighten new bolts of its fastening.
25. Put the timing belt on the tension roller, on the gear camshaft, the water pump and finally the intermediate roller. Note: Make sure that the tensioner roller is in the correct position on the cylinder head.
27. Then slightly loosen the belt tension so that the mark (see illustration 22.26 above) lines up with the indicator.
28. Tighten the fixing nut to 25 Nm.
29. Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full turns, returning it to the position corresponding to the TDC of the piston of the first cylinder. It is important that at least 1/8 turn (45") of rotation is continuous (non-stop).
30. Again check the tension of the toothed belt (the mark must be aligned with the indicator) and the timing phase. If the TDC marks do not match, repeat the adjustment.
31. Install the timing belt top cover.
34. Tighten the bottom bolt to 45 Nm and lower the engine.
35. Install the engine support assembly and remove the lifting tool.
36. Install the drive belt auxiliary units(See Section 21).
37. Install the expansion tank of the cooling system, dock its connector.
38. Connect a ventilation hose and a fuel hose.
39. Install a locker and noise insulation.
40. Install the hood stops, connect the negative wire e battery and install the engine top cover.
the report was made during the maintenance of the Passat B6 with a motor BMP. But this instruction is suitable for the vast majority of cars on the same platform.
replacing a timing belt on a diesel engine is a very responsible job, and mistakes are fraught with expensive consequences. However, there is nothing in this procedure that a person with arms growing from the right place could not do. With a tool, of course 🙂
It displays the synchronization of the shafts, their position relative to each other. Ideally (and from the factory) the discrepancy is " 0 “But it can change. Not because the belt is stretched (this is a myth), but as a result of its wear, wear of the rollers and gears. VAG approval determined in +/- 6 degrees, in fact, at 3, anomalies in the operation of the motor are already beginning to be observed. All this I mean is that without special clamps it is better not to start.
The replacement procedure is as follows:
Disconnect the fuel hoses from the filter housing
Unscrew the bolts and remove the filter
We snap off the latch, unscrew the clamp of the air line, remove it
Loosen the bolt securing the washer bottle neck
Disconnect connector from expansion tank, unscrew the two screws
Set the tank aside
Remove the right wheel, remove the lower fender liner
If a pump replacement is also planned, remove the lower pipe from the radiator, drain the antifreeze
When carrying out work at the service station, the motor must be hung on a special traverse. But it can also be replaced with a large wooden block placed under the pallet.
Raising and lowering the body itself (for example, with a jack), you can also change the tilt of the engine relative to the body.
We unscrew the bolts of the engine mount, remove it
Having lowered the motor, we unscrew the lower bolt of the bracket, the counterpart of the support.
Raising the motor, unscrew the two upper bolts
Remove the bracket may interfere with the pipes of the air conditioner
So that they do not interfere, you can unscrew one self-tapping screw that fixes these pipes relative to the body
The bracket can now be removed
With a key of 17 we cock the auxiliary belt tensioner
You can fix it in this position with a pin or drill with a diameter of 5.9 mm
We unscrew the bolts securing the tensioner, remove it
We pre-set TDC. To do this, rotate the crankshaft until the risk on the ribbed belt pulley matches the mark on the casing
- unscrew the accessory belt drive pulley
We remove the pulley, under it we see the bolts of the casing
Another bolt a little higher
We remove the casing, we see the belt and all the rollers
Insert fasteners:
Insert the retainer into the slot located in the lower left third of the camshaft gear
It must pass through the gear and fall into the reciprocal recess in the head of the block
We put a toothed lock on the crankshaft gear. We make sure that the arrows on the latch and the gear coincide
And the ledge on reverse side the latch fell into the reciprocal recess
We unscrew the three bolts on the camshaft gear for a couple of turns
We unscrew the nut of the belt tension roller, weaken the tension
Now the belt can be removed
unscrew the bottom roller
We unscrew the three bolts securing the pump (if it is planned to be replaced)
We take out the pump, along the way, antifreeze is drained from the block.
It is advisable to lower the engine itself in order to merge more
Clean and degrease the pump bore prior to reassembly.
We install the pump, screw in the bolts and tighten with force 20Nm
We fasten the lower roller, and tighten it with force 20 Nm
Before installing the tensioner pulley, pay attention to where the latch nose should go. This is a recess in a plastic casing, under the camshaft gear
We put the roller on the hairpin, but do not rush to insert it all the way, approximately to the middle
We turn the camshaft gear in the grooves counterclockwise until it stops
We put on the timing belt, but not immediately on the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe gears, but on the edge
With your fingers, we press the belt alternately deeper onto the gears, while moving the roller on the pin closer to the block
With a flat screwdriver, preferably with a slot, we rest against the nose, designed to fix the roller,
And push it counterclockwise
When the protrusion is opposite the recess, push the roller to the stop and screw on the nut
-(on a completely cold engine!) inserting the hexagon 6 into the recess on the roller, we begin to rotate it clockwise
First, with a few reciprocating movements, we seat the belt, then we make sure that the indicator arrow is opposite the slot
Tighten the nut with force 20Nm
Now you need to tighten the nuts on the camshaft gear. But at the same time, the gear must be held. For example, for these purposes I welded such a device
Holding the gear from displacement, tighten the bolts with force 25 Nm
We take out the clamps, turn the crankshaft a few turns, insert the camshaft clamp again
And make sure that the lower retainer falls on both the teeth and the hole in the cover
If there are discrepancies, we unscrew the three bolts on the camshaft gear, and, without removing the upper retainer, we shift the crankshaft so that the retainer nose still falls into the recess
Having achieved complete coincidence, we check again the belt tension indication
We take out the clamps
Screw the bottom of the belt cover
We fasten the ribbed belt drive pulley
Attaching the bracket to the block
We fasten the support first to the bracket, following the old tracks (the motor is slightly raised)
We lower the engine (we fasten the support to the body)
We collect the rest of the little things, start the engine
We warm up, connect the VAG-com, check the synchronization of the shafts
VAG itself gives a tolerance of +/-6 °. But practice shows that it is necessary to strive for "0". Then the start is the best, and the flow rate is optimal. Even the original latches do not guarantee hitting "0" the first time. You should not be afraid of this, even after starting the motor for fine adjustment, you will not need to disassemble everything again. It is only necessary to get to the camshaft gear, and using the gear indicator
to achieve the need to shift the gear relative to the hub
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a few words about the need to replace the pump. On Golfs of the 4th generation, on pumps driven by a timing belt, plastic impellers often collapsed. And this happened approximately on runs of about 150,000m, aakurat between belt changes. Therefore, a preventive measure appeared - replacing the pump with the belt removed, and a substitute with a steel impeller was chosen.
Meanwhile, VAG itself, I think, took action and made changes either to the design or to the material of the impeller, but in practice I personally have never had a chance to change faulty pumps on Golfs 5.6 or 7th generation, and cars with one base .
At the same time, I cannot but note a sharp drop in the quality of pumps from third-party manufacturers. Whom to give preference to big question. Therefore, if you still have only the first timing change, you can not touch the pump, if the second and further - try to find money for the original 🙂
This time I had a chance to work with the 2.0 FSI engine. The Volkswagen 2.0 FSI family of engines was launched in 2002, and they were a further development of the 8-valve 2.0 MPi. For the first time, such motors appeared on the Audi A4, where they were designated as AWA, and in 2003 an analogue for the Audi A3 and Volkswagen appeared - AXW. They differed in that AWA is installed longitudinally, while AXW is transverse. Actually, the transverse arrangement makes its maintenance a little more difficult. Therefore, I recommend that you stock up on time and patience.
Before lifting the car, be sure to loosen the bolts securing the right front wheel.
Remove the right front wheel.
Disconnect the MAF sensor (mass air flow sensor) and remove the factory air duct cover engine cover.
We dismantle the “noise pipe” system, if it exists (noise pipe, for supplying engine sound to the car interior)
We disconnect the washer reservoir from the bracket and remove it to the side (10 mm screw).
We disconnect the coolant reservoir and also remove it to the side. To do this, disconnect the electrical connector of the coolant level sensor, disconnect the small upper hose next to the cap and unscrew the screws holding the back of the tank (two T20 Torx screws).
We unscrew 2 bolts by 13 mm and remove the support bracket.
Disconnect the coolant hose. The hose runs in front of the belt cover.
Remove the cam sprocket cover with a flathead screwdriver.
We dismantle the plastic dust cover of the engine (8 screws T20 Torx).
Remove the right front mudguard (7 screws T20 Torx).
We unscrew the tensioner drive belt with a wrench and a nail. Remove the drive belt.
We unscrew and remove the drive belt tensioner (3 bolts 13 mm).
Remove the lower timing belt cover (4 bolts 10 mm).
Turning clockwise, we bring the camshaft to the TDC marking by turning the central bolt of the crankshaft (19mm). The marking on the camshaft must match the arrow on the timing belt cover.
We check the TDC again. The labels must match, as shown in the photo.
We make marks on the lower asterisk.
Jack up the engine on the right side.
Remove the side engine mount. Loosen the bolts first bigger size(two 18mm) that connect the mount to the engine and then smaller bolts (two 16mm) that connect the mount to the car. All 4 mounting bolts must be replaced with new bolts when reassembling.
We unscrew the bottom bolt from the engine bracket (16 mm bolt).
Raise the engine to gain access to the upper engine bracket bolts.
We unscrew the upper bolts of the engine bracket (2 bolts 16 mm).
We take out and remove the bracket. It is not necessary to dismantle the bottom motor mount, axles and water hose to remove the bracket. The fuel lines also do not need to be disconnected.
Remove the timing belt cover (7 bolts total, 2 T30 Torx, 5 10mm bolts).
Loosen and remove the timing belt tensioner (1 nut 13 mm). Loosen the 13mm main nut, then insert into the hole and turn the 8mm hex counterclockwise to loosen the tensioner.
Remove the timing belt tensioner, timing belt, both bypass rollers.
If you need to replace the water pump, then: Drain the coolant from the radiator hose and from the coolant hose going to oil cooler. The oil cooler hose is located directly behind the large radiator fan. Remove and replace the water pump (3 bolts 10 mm). The tightening torque of the water pump bolts is 15 Nm.
We replace tension rollers. For the upper, the tightening torque is 25 Nm, and for the lower, 35 Nm.
Change the timing belt tensioner and timing belt.
(see timing belt replacement tips)
Tighten the 13mm nut on the tensioner by hand. Using an 8 mm hex, turn clockwise until the mark is aligned with the cutout. Tightening torque 13mm nuts 25Nm.
4 engine mounting bolts, 6 crankshaft pulley bolts and 2 support bracket mounting bolts - these bolts must be replaced with new ones. The 3 engine bracket bolts do not need to be changed. Tightening torques: 6 mm crankshaft pulley bolts -10 Nm + ¼ turn. Engine bracket bolts 3 × 16 mm - 45nm. Mounting bolts 2 × 18 mm - 60 Nm + ¼ turn. Support bracket bolts 2× 16 mm -40 Nm + ¼ turn. 13mm washer bolts 20mm + ¼ turn. Wheel fixing bolts -110 nm.
Timing Belt Replacement Tips:
We always put the belt on the crankshaft last. We start by putting it on the tensioner, fasten it to the top of the camshaft gear and down past the pump and roller, leaving the crankshaft gear for last.
The camshaft gear is located at the top of the belt loop. The crankshaft gear is at the bottom of the hinge. The tensioner is on the left side of the loop, so when the tensioner is tightened, it takes up the slack in the belt from the left side of the loop, not the right. Before tightening the tensioner, the belt must be fully secured to the engine. When putting the belt on the gears, we remove all the slack on the right side of the loop. Right side The hinges (water pump side) should be very tight and the slack should be on the left side of the hinge (tensioner side).
We turn the crankshaft two turns and check the coincidence of our marks and belt tension. If everything is normal, install all the parts in the reverse order of removal. Well, if not, then we repeat everything again.
Good luck on the roads, no nail, no wand!