Currently, the ATV is a popular vehicle. It is quite easy to manage, has good maneuverability and a high degree of maneuverability.
However, such an all-terrain vehicle is quite expensive and not everyone can buy it. Do not be discouraged, but you can try to make it yourself. How to make an ATV with your own hands? Our recommendations will help.
If you are the owner of an old motorcycle and it is gathering dust in the garage, then do not rush to dispose of it. The Ural model is great for processing into an ATV.
The assembly of the all-terrain vehicle will consist of the following stages:
- frame modification;
- installation of the instrument frame;
- engine installation;
- suspension installation.
What is needed for work:
- bridge;
- shock absorbers;
- apparatus for welding;
- Bulgarian;
- brake system;
- Tie Rod;
- metal profile sheet;
- motorbike.
Before you start assembling, you should decide on the type of control of your homemade ATV. It can be motorcycle and steering.
The next step is to upgrade the frame by pushing the tubes of the vertical seatposts 40mm back. Next, we weld the bridge to the Ural pendulum, cut the lower fork and seatposts a little. Next to the bushings of the pendulum suspension, we weld struts made of pipes.
We shorten the bridge to make the vehicle compact and more maneuverable. Now we do cardan shaft, which can be built from the semi-axes of the Oka.
We need square pipes 25 * 25 * 2 mm for the manufacture of the front suspension. You can borrow a Zhiguli car steering knuckles. Close attention must be paid to the braking system. It is better to purchase it separately to ensure maximum safety.
When all the main elements are assembled, you can proceed with the installation of headlights, turn signals and brake lights. We cover the ATV with a profile and prepare for painting.
ATV from the motorcycle "Izh"
If you do not even have such a motorcycle, then you can buy it for a very nominal fee. Which will be much cheaper than buying an expensive vehicle.
The fundamental difference between the assembly of an ATV from Izh is not particularly different from the assembly of an all-terrain vehicle from the Ural.
ATV from a scooter
A great homemade quad bike can be made from a scooter. We begin the work process with drawing up drawings that you can do yourself and slightly alter the frame. Next, install the engine. We connect the motor shaft with the gear rear axle ATV using an ordinary chain drive. We bring the controls to the frame and fix the pedals and control levers.
It is better to use components from the same scooter, but fuel tank it is better to borrow from a motorcycle. The control can be set to steering or motorcycle, whichever suits you best, the brake lever must be attached to the transmission brake on the rear axle sprocket.
For body kit we use material from old automotive equipment or fiberglass.
ATV from the car "Oka"
Breathe into an old car new life you can try to build an excellent homemade ATV out of it. It will please your whole family.
We start by studying professional drawings. We modernize the body, remove the doors and the ceiling. We use comfortable seats for comfort. Next, install the engine and muffler.
To the frame, with the help of shock absorbers and native suspensions, we attach the wheels. It is worth considering what clearance you will need and take care of it in advance. The most important is the brake system. Do not try to save on this element. We will use the brakes from the motorcycle. The steering wheel can be installed on a motorcycle or left native. It is important to securely fasten the steering rods. The body is sheathed with metal and painted.
Children's homemade ATV
The presence of an all-terrain vehicle in families with children is even more important. There is no better gift for a child than a wonderful car made by dad. When manufacturing a children's all-terrain vehicle, we pay special attention to safety. After all, we are talking about the health and life of children.
What is needed for a children's ATV
Decide on dimensions and appearance. The possibilities are unlimited, everything will depend only on your skills and efforts.
We draw up a drawing, this is easy to handle on our own. The main stage is the manufacture of the frame. For it, you can use a finished model or weld it from a square profile (25x25mm). If you make a frame with your own hands, then you need to pay due attention to the quality of the welds. We will buy new wheels, we choose them depending on the age of the child and the quality of the road surface.
Quite a wide choice of engine. An electric motor from the Volga or a scooter is suitable. We install the battery in such a way that it is not necessary to disassemble the entire structure for recharging.
After assembling all the main components, the most pleasant part of the work comes. You can use a body kit from some old and unusable model of a children's ATV, or you can use your imagination and come up with a new original author's idea.
Do-it-yourself children's ATV 4x4 saves your budget significantly, gives joy to the child, and teamwork unites the whole family.
P.S. Homemade ATVs are not easy to do with your own hands. If something didn’t work right away, think about what and where you made a mistake. Thomas Edison made 10,000 unsuccessful attempts! before he invented the electric light bulb. And you will definitely succeed.
An ATV is an all-wheel drive car and a motorcycle, an enduro-cross bike, in one bottle. The features of this type of transport are compactness, tires with deep treads for better off-road traction, 1-2 seats and no roof over your head. This type of transport first appeared in Japan in the 1970s and won the hearts of many off-road romantics. Such transport will be of interest to hunters, fishermen, and those who like to conquer impassable terrain. Many of us dream of such a toy for adults. We will tell you how you can make your dreams come true with your own hands.
Choosing an engine for an ATV
most main detail for your all-terrain vehicle will be power unit. Most often, motorcycle engines are used (they are economical and small in size). For example, an engine from Ural or Minsk, IZH Planet or IZH Jupiter is suitable. You can adapt the engine from VAZ or Oka to your ATV. To avoid overheating of the engine in the heat, you need to choose a model with an air cooling system. The most popular option is the transfer of automotive forced cooling.
Modernization of an existing frame or drawings from scratch
Before any undertaking, you need an action plan and a design drawing or a finished frame. If you yourself are friends with mathematical calculations, then you can calculate everything yourself. If you can’t make a drawing, then you can contact a specialist or look for a design scheme that suits you on the Internet.
The easiest way is to take the finished frame from the motorcycle as a basis and weld all the missing parts onto it. The order of your actions is as follows: we disassemble the old motorcycle. We leave only the frame. We cut off the rear part of the frame with the pendulum fork fastening. We extend the frame with pipes and weld the bridge (use jibs and scarves). First turn over the automobile bridge so that the quadric can go forward and not backward (because the direction of rotation is reversed on the “Ural” gearbox at the output).
Remember that in case of replacement, the axle gearbox should be easily removed. We are looking for spare parts from a passenger car: 2 front hubs, a rear axle (so that the disks match the fasteners with the hubs), a cardan shaft, front suspension arms, tie rods, a ¾ inch round water pipe.
If there is no donor motorcycle, then the frame is best made from durable alloys: pipes, profiles welded together by spot welding. For the bearing parts of the frame, you can buy water pipes (VGP 25 × 3.2). You must have equipment that will allow you to bend pipes in the right place. For the body, we cook a frame from a 70 × 40 pipe. The length should not be shorter than the spring, and the width should correspond to the size of the bridge. When using jibs, do not forget about the torsional rigidity of the structure.
"Ural" rubber coupling connect the cardan to the box. Through the cross of the hinge, we connect the cardan with the bridge with a flange. If the donor was IL, then the drive is carried out by the native chain.
If your quadric will be with springs on shock absorbers, then leave the rear suspension swingarm with silent blocks. Weld the bridge to the fork (do not forget to reinforce the seams with wide scarves so that it does not vomit later). Instead of a cardan, use the axle shaft from Oka or VAZ. We leave the springs with shock absorbers as they are, do not touch. When the frame design is ready, we proceed to fasten the engine to the bottom of the frame with bolts. The engine can be located in the back or in the front (no difference). The muffler can be homemade, two-section.
Now we mount the transmission on the rear wheels with high quality so that there is no backlash. The drive comes with an engine from an obsolete motorcycle. Wheels on the quadric can be put from the "Niva". If you need a trunk, you can weld it from thin-walled steel pipes. The bumper can be replaced by "kenguryatniki".
Control type
In order for your all-terrain vehicle to be safe to operate, you will have to take care of the type of control. Your ATV can have 2 types of controls: a steering wheel (we take the basis from the car - tie rods) and a steering wheel from a used motorcycle (lever and shaft). The steering shaft can be made from a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. Place a travel stop at the lower end. Thus, at the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.
Suspension: front and rear
Your ATV can be fitted with either rear or front suspension. For rear suspension a suitable solution would be:
1. To make the design lightweight and simple, you need a gear-cardan system. There is no differential in this case.
2. The construction will turn out to be very heavy if you use an automobile bridge (it has to be shortened). In this case, there is a differential that will be needed when driving.
For the front suspension, you can take the suspension from the Urals or IZH as a basis. Installing the front suspension is more time-efficient - it's faster than four-wheel drive where you will need the help of professional turners, electricians, welders (some refinement will be necessary).
To attach the pendulum arms, the front of the motorcycle frame is lengthened. It must be installed so that the turning wheels do not touch the engine cylinders. Therefore, on the Ural frame, the wheels are placed further forward. To increase the geometric cross-country ability, the suspension arms should be as long as possible(these need to be made by yourself). To the steering column (made from the "Ural" cardan) at the bottom we weld two steering bipods side by side: on the right and left wheels. The hubs are attached by means of native ball joints.
When installing the front rack, do not forget about the slope of the rack. This will prevent the steering wheel from knocking out over bumps and will help the steering wheel to return to its place when turning. If there is no tilt, you can fly by inertia, returning the rudder to the opposite position on the road will be very problematic.
4WD ATV
For an all-wheel drive ATV you will need:
- drive from mechanical transmission with a power take-off gearbox to the front wheels;
Wheel differentials;
Steering on the front wheels (according to the principle of a car);
Independent suspension (can also be multi-link) or dependent suspension.
If it is not possible to assemble everything yourself, they take the suspension from the Oka or front-wheel drive VAZs. We cook the frame from scratch under the engine from the Oka. In the front suspension, we leave room for the front wheel drive gearbox. You can do it yourself: cut off the “stockings” of the bridge and remove the suitable axle shafts from the VAZ from the differential. Turn the engine back to front. Now the axle shafts have become universal joints that drive the front and rear axles.
Today we'll talk about how to make your own out of a motorcycle, walk-behind tractor or moped real ATV with your own hands. We will also consider drawings, diagrams and methods for assembling a homemade ATV from improvised materials in the garage
From a motorcycle like the "Ural" - this is a big, bulky, heavy and "gluttonous" beast, has a wonderful four-stroke engine with a reverse gear and costs a "penny". For this reason, it is much cheaper and more interesting for enthusiasts to create their own designs of these SUVs.
Before starting the assembly, it is necessary to compile a detailed list of units and parts that will be needed to create your own offspring, develop a work plan and design drawing.
It is logical that, first of all, it is necessary to find the "heart" of the future ATV - the power unit. Absolutely anyone will do, from a conventional walk-behind tractor to a six-liter V12 - there are such precedents. In most cases, motorcycle engines are used - they are economical and small-sized.
To use high gear ratios under normal operating conditions, a Minsk or Ural engine will suffice.
In summer, the issue of overheating arises, so air-cooled models should be chosen. Another good option is boxer engines Soviet-made, an indisputable plus of which is powerful traction and a completely unpretentious driveline.
There are two most common ATV rear suspension solutions.
Reduction-cardan system. The design turns out to be as lightweight and simple as possible, but there is no differential, which, in principle, can be sacrificed for the sake of the previously named advantages.
Use of a road bridge. The design turns out to be extremely heavy, and if there is no desire to have an ATV with an automobile base, it is necessary to shorten the bridge, which is a very non-trivial task. Of the pluses, it is worth highlighting only the presence of a differential, which is useful when moving along the tracks.
There are huge possibilities for front suspension and steering. ATV suspension arms carry a significantly lower load than automobile ones, respectively, they can be made independently using improvised means for this. The best option- creation of a suspension on the basis of the existing motorcycle "Ural".
Ideal - remove the frame from the donor motorcycle and weld it up necessary elements- this eliminates a number of problems, but the design may turn out to be unnecessarily complex.
Having prepared necessary tools, vehicles-donors and freeing up time, you can start creating your own ATV:
We collect the frame (frame). We connect the prepared metal beams, according to the drawing, to each other using spot welding. We check the design and carry out integral welding. Alternatively, you can simply remake the frame from the donor motorcycle - it will turn out no worse.
We install the engine. It can be placed both behind and in front - the main thing is to firmly fix it with bolts on the bottom of the frame.
We mount the drive and transmission on the rear wheels. The drive does not need to be created independently - it goes along with the engine from the donor vehicle and is installed on the frame. Again, it is necessary to securely fasten the drive and transmission to the frame to prevent play.
The steering is also installed from the motorcycle. Together with the steering wheel, the fuel tank "migrates" to the ATV. In general, if you imagine the design, then it will look like this: 3/4 of the ATV is still the same Ural or another motorcycle, 1/4 is homemade frame and pendant. .
We install the wheels from a small-sized vehicle ("Oka" or "ZAZ-968"). The rear wheels can go to the ATV together with the rear axle of the car, or they are mounted as follows: we take ready-made axles with disks, after which we attach the gearbox to the rear to drive. and put the wheels on the rims
With a gearbox on the rear axle and an engine, we assemble a single drive (again, it will be easier if it is completely rearranged from the donor tool). We do this as follows: from the engine we stretch the chain to the gearbox and fix it, after which we carry out a performance check. In the end, we fix the entire structure on the frame.
The front suspension - independent - is more profitable in terms of time and money, since all-wheel drive quad bike requires significant refinement of this assembly by a professional turner, welder and electrician, which will take a very long time. As an option, we purchase ready-made factory units for ATVs.
Thanks to a reliable, time-tested design, excellent power and traction, it is the Ural motorcycle that is the most popular donor for homemade ATVs.
Frame.
Quad bike frame specification:
Material: 2.5 x 2.5 square profile
Total length: 130 cm
Overall height: 74 cm (seat level)
Overall height: 84 cm (handlebar level)
Wheelbase: 105 cm
Distance between axes: 70.5 cm
Axis tilt: 14 degrees
Track (distance from the outer edge of the tire to the outer edge of the other): front: 105 cm; back: 112 cm
Ground clearance: 7" (with 16" rear wheels)
Materials:
Square profile:
2.5x2.5 square profile - 9.75 meters
Pipes:
1.22 meters - 1 x .065 (inches)
1.22 meters - 3/4 x .065
0.3048 meters - 3/4 x .125
0.915 meters - 5/8 x .125
0.61 meters - 1/2 x .083 T6 aluminum pipe
Rental:
0.61 meters - 1 x 3/16 (inches)
0.915 meters - 1 1/4 x 1/4
0.61 meters - 5 x 1/8 (plate for mounting the engine and suspension)
You will also need spring shock absorbers for the rear and front suspensions.
ATV engine:
Now you need to securely fasten the engine to the frame. The engine is best used from a moped. After screwing it to the frame, connect the motor shaft to the gear on the rear axle with a simple chain drive. After that, bring all the engine controls to the handlebars and fasten the pedals and levers to your frame.
Parts of a body kit or ATV body are best and easiest to make from fiberglass. After manufacturing on wooden or plasticine ingots, the elements of the aerodynamic body kit are adjusted relative to each other, polished and then painted in the desired color, after which they are already attached to the ATV frame. Ideas, as well as some ready-made elements, for example, from a broken car (of course, if you have them available), options for an external body kit can be taken from any production models.
Important:
Remember that in order to use the ATV on public roads, you will need to register it with the traffic police, where you need to register any vehicles with an engine of more than 50 cc and a maximum design speed of more than 50 km / h. Therefore, we recommend that you do not use engines with a volume of more than fifty cubic centimeters.
The frame for the ATV is welded using pipes with a round section, corners and square profiles. At the same time, it is advisable to use elements of various mopeds and motorcycles, because it is there that pipes with high strength are used. Never use water pipes. They do not have the necessary strength and can crack at any time. Then we weld the mounting brackets and fix the engine to the frame. It is better to make your first ATV from a moped engine
Even your children will like it, who will simply be delighted with it. The fact is that children's ATVs on gasoline are a great toy for every child. After all, he does not develop huge speeds, but the guys will have more than enough emotions from overcoming rough terrain. Next, we connect the engine shaft to the rear axle gear using a chain.
We install the ATV control mechanisms on the steering column, and we attach the pedals and levers to the frame. The power and ignition system is taken from the same moped model from which we took the engine. Over time, they can be improved and finalized within reasonable limits, of course. You can choose a motorcycle fuel tank of the appropriate volume. Do not forget also the moment that in the question of how to make an ATV, each stage must be carefully worked out. Therefore, installing a battery on such a machine is simply necessary.
You also need parts to assemble an ATV:
1 - wheels from a motor scooter tourist or ant
2 - tires for a walk-behind tractor 10 inches and wider 4.5 or 5.0
3 - profile pipe 15*15. 17*17. 20*20. 25*25.
4 - bearing 306 - 12 pieces
5 - external CV joint vaz 2109-08 16 pieces of which 4 new 4 used, but working, and 8 can be killed (for any hundred in scrap metal) and 8 anthers.
6 - engine from a moped of at least 150 cc. for example, a viper storm in a place with wiring with an ignition lock, a wheel and a muffler
7 - gear from scooter ant reinforced (all shafts on bearings)
8 - four leading stars with 21 teeth and two new chains
9 - ball bearings with Renault 21 on any disassembly with a shaft and a penny
10 - jet thrust rear axle (short.) from 2101 need-6 pcs
11 - a bunch of different bolts of cutting wheels and electrodes, well, that's all along the way
12 - shock absorbers for a smoped yamaha aprio - 4 pcs from a honda lead 2 pcs and 8 more dead shock absorbers from any yap mopeds (we will cut off the ears from them)
.
In winter, it is easy to convert an ATV by replacing the rear wheels with pneumatics and installing a steering ski in front; the machine thus turns into a snowmobile, and the transformation takes less than an hour. The use of affordable materials in the manufacture of an all-terrain vehicle, the simplicity of design may well ensure the repeatability of the machine even in a home workshop.
The MTS frame is made of round pipes, square profiles and corners. Its feature is detachable connections that allow you to remove the steering column assembly when installing the engine, as well as the front axle beam. Each of the connectors consists of a conventional "water" coupling, a shackle and a lock nut.
To tension the chain connecting the engine with the gearbox, the motor frame (part of the Minsk motorcycle frame) moves; axis rear wheels with bearings also has the ability to move in the longitudinal direction, which allows you to adjust the tension of the second chain connecting the gearbox with rear axle. The front and rear fenders are removable (they are not available in the snowmobile version). Docking of the frame elements was carried out by electric welding.
The engine of the motor vehicle is from the Minsk motorcycle, I have no comments on its work. It is of course possible to install more powerful engines- from the Voskhod motorcycle or the Tula scooter; it is only necessary to adjust the dimensions of the frame for them. The choice of the "Minsk" engine was due to its efficiency and low weight. Its power turned out to be quite sufficient for traveling on a snowmobile with a passenger; it is also possible to tow a skier or sleigh. Starting properties of the motor in both summer and winter are quite satisfactory.
The directional control of the summer version of the motor vehicle is provided by turning the front wheels with the help of two rods; for the winter version, a lever and a rod connecting it to the ski fork are provided. The latter is borrowed from a moped. The front axle is from the SZD motorized carriage, although somewhat reduced: sections are cut out of its beams and the central parts (with a torsion bar mounting bolt) are welded to the peripheral ones (with suspension arm bushings). In the winter version, levers, steering knuckles, rods and torsion bars are dismantled.
The steering wheel is from the Tourist scooter, it fits perfectly with the steering shaft with an M10 bolt. Controls are standard, motorcycle. The brake lever is connected with a cable brake pads mounted on the gearbox.
Reducer. Its basis was the hub of the rear wheel of the Tula-200 scooter, to which an asterisk was welded from the side of the brake drum. The rear axle is driven by a chain with a pitch of 19 mm. The transmission brake makes it possible to significantly simplify the design of the rear axle. The sprocket on the axle is fixed with an M14 bolt, the wheel hubs are fastened in the same way, as shown in the drawings. As the basis of the gearbox, you can use not only the wheel hub of the "Tourist", but also other motor vehicles.
The axis of the driving wheels is a bar with a diameter of 30 mm; its ends are machined up to Ø25 mm, turned hubs are put on these places. The wheels are used from a motorized stroller with a size of 5.00X10.0. Winter wheels conventional for pneumatic ducts on tires low pressure designs: with plywood discs, aluminum lodgements and camera straps. The axle bearings are double-row, they have conical inserts with nuts that fix the axle well and do not require high precision processing.
For more information about quad bikes, see this link:
Optional equipment. This includes front and rear trunks, headlights, turn signals and brake lights; their attachment points are shown in the figures.
The design of the all-terrain vehicle is simple, it can be made in just a few days in a fairly primitive workshop - of course, if all the components are available. And the possibilities of using such a machine are the widest: as a winch when plowing a garden, to drive a circular saw, as a simple garden tractor (excellent flotation through arable land, so cultivation, hilling, etc.) is possible. In addition, you can increase the cross-country ability by installing twin rear wheels. You can also mount a reverse gear from an SZA motorized carriage, in which the differential is replaced by a shaft, and then the all-terrain vehicle will receive reverse gear. Rubber wear due to the lack of a differential is not observed, and this does not affect handling.
How to make a homemade ATV is a question that is the dream of almost any young designer.
However, this kind of dream is far from being realized for everyone and far from being at the age at which we would like. But sometimes dreamers still embody what they want into reality.
Drafting skills, ability to perform complex technological processes, having funds and time are the main requirements when creating a homemade vehicle.
Today we'll show you how to build a homemade quad bike using oki parts and show you the process with a selection of photos.
You can find out one of the ways and make sure that it is possible to independently create an ATV from car parts in the example below.
Do-it-yourself all-wheel drive ATV based on the OKA car (amateur designer Sergey Pletnev)
To begin with, we present General characteristics project:
- Length - 2300 mm;
- Width - 1250 mm;
- Height - (extreme points of the wheels) - 1250 mm;
- Base - 1430 mm;
- Clearance - 300 mm;
- Engine - inherited from the car "OKA";
- Wheels - disks: "VAZ" 2121 (Niva);
- Tires - CoordiantOffRoadR15;
- Shock absorbers - "OKA";
- Hubs - "VAZ" 2109;
- Interwheel gearboxes - "VAZ" classic
- Maximum speed - 60 km / h
- The gearbox taken from OKI was modified by replacing the standard main gear pair with a chain drive.
This was done to increase speed on a flat road. And it looks like this:
Assembled
Disassembled
Water pipes (VGP 25x3.2) act as load-bearing parts of the frame. Were purchased in the form of two segments of 7900 mm and weighing 38 kg in the amount of 1150 rubles.
For levers and suspensions, water pipes (VGP 20x2.8) were also required - two pieces 6100 mm long, weighing 20 kg cost 650 rubles.
Two used rear axles from the "penny" (VAZ 2101) - in the amount of 3000 rubles.
From the G8 (VAZ 2108), fists were taken complete with disks, calipers and other things + drive shafts - in total, 4,000 rubles were spent for all these used parts.
Metal sheets, nuts, bolts, washers, silent blocks, etc. came in handy - consumable fasteners and materials for such cases should always be enough.
From the above parts, with the help of welding, a pipe bender and locksmith tools, such a design was created.
Most structural parts are fastened by welding. The carburetor was installed.
Carburetor homemade four-wheel drive ATV
Metal bars for suspension, engine and axles are also secured with welded seams
The hubs are connected to the suspension with new bushings, washers and bolts.
After the frame was assembled, miscalculations began of the nuances of the position of the engine, the functionality of the gearbox and its attachment, as well as the front suspension with steering.
As a result, the following moves were applied:
From the rear post, the axle shafts are connected to the hubs. Welded mount for shock absorbers
The gearbox uses an elongated homemade rod
The picture shows how the mount for the box was connected and the position of the stem from the outside
The steering knuckle is taken from the "VAZ" 2109 and the steering arm is made of a metal plate independently
After a short test drive, it was noticed that the stem from the box would need a rocker to shift gears by hand - this is the most convenient option in the case of a modified box.
I must say that it was modified to increase gear ratio from the axle to the wheels, because without this intervention, the speed at maximum speed would not have gained more than 45 km / h.
Further Assembly
The side steps are welded to the frame, the front axle is installed, to front axle the cardan is connected from the gearbox, the front shock absorbers are installed. Front axle shafts connected to hubs and axle
The brake system is installed separately for the back of the wheels
Steering and brake system for front wheels installed
Purchased off-road tires (in this case, the most suitable option)
The stage of creating the ATV matrix has come. Mounting foam, cardboard, resin, fiberglass, fittings and more came in handy.
The technology of using materials to create a matrix is a very complex process that requires deep and detailed study.
Light reinforcement and cardboard set the frame of the wings, as well as the front and rear parts of the cladding. The foam was filled with a margin in places where it was supposed to make convex shapes.
The dried foam was processed with a file, a jackhammer, a knife and other tools.
Was installed oil radiator from the helicopter and the first layer of fiberglass is applied
The front suspension is fully assembled. Native ball "VAZ" 2109 from below. Top steering tip from "UAZ"
Finished surface. Side view
The hubs were fitted to the NIVA wheels with special adapters
Hub side view
The matrix is almost ready. Additional parts of the frame are prepared for use as a trunk and bumper at the same time.
The seat is homemade. The steering wheel is borrowed from the Minsk motorcycle. Controls were brought to it.
ATV painting
Painted suspension elements
Assembly
The final part of the work is assembly.
used homemade mufflers. Used as a fuel tank plastic canister. Electronics installed.
From a different angle.
End of work
Completed work.
The panel is borrowed from the OKA car.
power unit homemade ATV the engine from the Oka car became - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid-cooled. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.
And this is just a dream of every man! I want this one!!!
Homemade ATV frame- spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipelines with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, cross members, etc.) - from VGT-20. The spars are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical one. He bent pipes on a pipe bender, "to the cold." Eyelets (pairs of ears) for attaching the levers and shock absorbers of the suspension were welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets - as the components and assemblies were mounted (in place).
Homemade ATV-all-terrain vehicle:
1 - front wheel(from the car "Chevrolet-Niva", 2 pcs.);
2 - engine (from the car "Oka");
3 - front wheel drive transmission;
4 - gearbox (from the car "Oka");
5 - rear wheel drive transmission;
7 - rear wheel(from the car "Chevrolet-Niva", 2 pcs.);
8 - fuel tank (20-liter canister);
9 - rear trunk;
10 - silencer;
11 - passenger backrest (headrest from the Oka car);
12 - saddle;
13 - clutch basket (from the Oka car);
14 - gear lock lever;
15 - body kit (fiberglass);
16 - steering wheel (from the Ural motorcycle);
17 - instrument panel (from the car "Oka");
18 - front trunk
Homemade ATV transmission- peculiar. Although the car is all-wheel drive, but transfer box it doesn't. As you know, in the "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheels (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. That's just the power unit itself, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal articulated shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.
The transmission is assembled from units of various domestic cars, mostly "VAZ" models. But ready-made industrial units also had to be finalized. For example, from the gearbox (from Oka), to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod also made another one - elongated, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The stem can be fixed in three positions: for engaging 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is located with right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.
Interwheel reducers - from rear axles VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts along with the "stockings" were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints as hinges are also used in the remaining intermediate shafts of the transmission.
Kinematic diagram of the transmission of a homemade ATV made of oki
1 - motor (from the car "Oka");
2 - clutch (from the car "Oka");
3 - gearbox;
4 - CV joint (from the car VAZ-2108, 12 pcs);
5 - final drive gearbox with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);
6 - shaft (from a VAZ-2108 car, 6 pcs.);
7 - wheel (from the car "Chevrolet-Niva")
There are no low gears or differential locks.
Steering - motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automotive type(with steering rods) - below, only simplified, without steering mechanism, with one bipod. The steering wheel was first used from a Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and installed from the Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. At the lower end it has a stroke limiter. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.
The bipod is made of steel sheet 8 mm thick in a shape resembling the letter "T". A hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made at the edge of the "rack" - a steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for ball tips of steering rods. These holes are reinforced with suitable welded washers. The lugs of the bipod are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.
Wheels - 15-inch, from the Chevrolet Niva car. Tires with appropriate rim size 205/70 (width/height as a percentage of width) with off-road tread pattern. The running diameter of the wheel is about 660 mm.
Frame drawing homemade ATV:
1 - lower spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);
2 - upper spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);
3 - rack (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
4 - support of the rear upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);
5 - rear brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
6 - support of the front upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
7 - front brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
8 - top support front shock absorber(corner 35×35);
9 - rack of the upper support of the front shock absorber (sheet s5, 2 pcs.);
10 - front engine mount support post (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);
11 - rear support leg of the engine mount (sheet s3.2 pcs.);
12 - eyelets for fastening levers and shock absorbers of suspensions (sheet s5, 18 pairs);
13 - saddle mounting bracket (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);
14 - upper cross connection (pipe d20x2.8);
15 - lower cross connection (pipe d20x2.8.2 pcs.);
16 - radiator support (pipe d25x3.2 cut in half lengthwise, 2 pcs.);
17 - front console of the steps (pipe d20x2);
18 - rear console of the steps (pipe d20x2);
19 - connection of the front and rear consoles of the steps (pipe d20x2);
20 - footrest cross member (sheet s5, 4 pcs.);
21 - lug for fastening a fiberglass body kit (sheet s5, set)
Wheel suspension - independent, on two triangular transverse levers each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). The levers are welded from round tubes of VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car "Oka" (rear). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers - from the VAZ-2109 car. Both of them had to be improved. I installed wheel studs from the Niva in the hubs, and home-made swing arms in the front fists.
Silencer - self-made, two-section. To protect against temperature warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.
ATV body kit - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for the implementation of the relevant work. But as it turned out - this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.
Wheel suspension arms
(a - the upper arm of the front suspension; b - lower arm front suspension; in - the lower arm of the rear suspension; g - the upper arm of the rear suspension; all parts, except for those noted specifically, are made of VGT-20 pipe):
1 - beam (2 pcs.);
2 - cross member;
3 - bushing (pipe d37x32, 2 pcs.);
4 - shock absorber mounting eye (steel, sheet s3);
5 - ball joint (from the steering rod of the Zhiguli car)
First, I made the required body kit contours from a steel square pipe with a section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe easily bends even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be possible to cut off the “tacks” without difficulty. Then he bent the “wings” from hardboard (fibreboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend turned out to be steep, he attached separate strips from the same hardboard. The front end was removed with expanded polystyrene purchased at a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene foam or the same mounting foam, but polystyrene foam turned out to be a more suitable material - it is well cut with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a common structure on a mounting foam.
Steering column assembly:
1 - steering shaft (pipe d20x2.8);
2 - steering wheel connection plate (steel, sheet s6);
3 - brace of the plate (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);
4 - detachable bracket-sleeve of the steering shaft (kapron, sheet s18);
5 - support washer (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);
6 - bipod (steel, sheet 18);
7 - steering limiter (steel, sheet s6);
8 - bearing housing;
9 - thrust tip (steel, circle 15);
10 - thrust bearing
Falshbak - complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of the hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill the place intended for it with layers of mounting foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise the thick volume of foam may not dry inside. Filled in until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse-grained sandpaper. 
Under the dashboard, a part went into action dashboard"Oki". I fixed it on the blank, too, with the help of mounting foam. Since the foam is large-pored, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to correspond to the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the block, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, then plastering and painting the block could be neglected.
