How to make an ATV with your own hands is a difficult and responsible task, but feasible for a master who has perfectly mastered welding and turning. The efforts and time spent are paid off not only with great savings, but also with the result - an exclusive, author's model of a quadric, which no one else has.
The features of assembling a homemade vehicle are highly dependent on the chosen base - the engine and other elements that are used by the craftsman.
6 the best options basics ("donor") for setting out on how to make an ATV.
- Motorcycle "Ural".
- Motorcycle "Izh".
- Motor scooter "Ant".
- Another scooter (scooter).
- Niva car.
- Oka car.
Most often, some structural elements are taken from a motorcycle, others from a car.
In addition to parts (accessories) for a quadric, its creator will need:
- assembly "shop" - in this capacity, a fairly spacious garage, equipped with good heating and lighting, will come in handy;
- a set of equipment and tools;
- blueprints.
You may also be interested in the article of our specialist, which tells how to make.
Preparation for work, tools and equipment
First of all, you need to carefully consider when, where and for what purposes the future ATV will be used - hunting and fishing, motorcycle walks in nature, transportation of goods, and others. It is on this basis that it is necessary to make a choice of a “donor” vehicle, having decided how powerful the engine is needed, what kind of suspension is suitable, what kind of trunk, etc.
Drawings can be taken from the Internet ready-made, compiled from scratch on your own, or you can combine both options and be ready to redo it at your discretion.
List of required tools:
- welding machine;
- Bulgarian;
- drill;
- keys set;
- various small tools - calipers, hammers, knives, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.
For self-manufacturing The frame will also require pipe bending equipment. In the absence of it, you can rent it or give the necessary work "for outsourcing" to another craftsman. Only with remarkable skill can the pipes be bent manually by heating the place of the bend with a gas cutter or a burner.
Quad components:
- engine;
- frame;
- rear and front suspension;
- steering;
- brake system;
- cooling system;
- muffler;
- electrical equipment - battery, headlights;
- hull, bodywork.
The muffler is quite possible to make yourself. Everything else is to buy used parts on the shadow market.
Parts selection
ATV frame
Depending on the "donor" and the design of the quadric, the frame will either have to be made by yourself, or you can reconstruct a finished, used one.
The most important thing is that along the frame the engine is securely bolted to the bottom, which can be located both in front and behind. Also firmly, in order to avoid play, the transmission and drive should be attached to the frame.
As a material, ordinary water and gas pipes are suitable, with a wall thickness of not more than 3 mm:
- for spars - 25 mm;
- for crossbars and struts - 20 mm.
Pipes are connected by spot welding, then integral welding is carried out. Ears for attaching shock absorbers and levers are welded to the frame immediately. Brackets - in the process of mounting units and assemblies.
Reconstruction of an existing frame
To reconstruct the finished frame, you should remove everything, leaving the frame, dismantle the back and build up the front. Then weld the elements for fastening a complete set of components and assemblies of the ATV. When reconstructing the motorcycle frame, the seatposts should be moved 40 - 45 cm.
The front and rear trunks are cut out of a metal sheet and welded to the frame. In conclusion, the finished frame is painted, varnishing is not necessary.
Engine
The engine is suitable from a car, motorcycle or scooter. Some "Lefty" even construct an ATV from a walk-behind tractor with their own hands, as newer models are equipped with four-stroke engines, the power of which for heavy devices reaches 15 "horses" - against 11 hp. "Ant".
The engine compares favorably with a scooter due to its low fuel consumption, besides, the scooter-based quadric is the lightest, which makes it easy to pull it out when it gets stuck in mud and sand. But a quadric needs a more powerful engine to transport goods and / or drive off-road.
The power of the engine "Izh-1", "Izh-2" and "Izh Jupiter" - 24 hp, the old "Ural" - 32 or 36 hp, the two-cylinder engine of the old "Oka" - 35 hp. , a three-cylinder machine of a later release - 53.
To travel in hot weather, an ATV needs a cooled engine. Cooling was not installed on old motorcycles, so you have to pick it up (it will fit, for example, from a VAZ 2108) and install it.
The suspension can be used both rear and front. The easiest way is to take the front from the motorcycle.
2 options rear suspension:
- The rear axle of the car, shortened to fit the dimensions of the quadric. The advantage is the presence of a differential. The disadvantage is that the design will come out heavier.
- Cardan-reduced design - with a gearbox mounted on rear axle.
Please note: ATV requires independent suspension with high ground clearance.
Suspension arms are bolted to the frame through rubber-metal hinges - silent blocks.
The tilt of the front suspension strut is mandatory, otherwise the ATV may roll over.
Shock absorbers are suitable from Izh, but if the budget allows you to purchase gas-oil pumps, the driver will be able to adjust the suspension according to road conditions.
Steering and chassis
The steering system of an ATV can be either based on an automobile - with a steering wheel, or with a motorcycle steering wheel. Some craftsmen combine both types: motorcycle steering wheel, lever and shaft - at the top, automobile tie rods - at the bottom. Together with the steering wheel of a motorcycle, it is advisable to immediately take a fuel tank.
A homemade steering shaft is made from a 20 mm pipe with walls up to 3 mm. A stroke limiter must be placed below.
In the manufacture of a quadric based on a car, it is better to replace a gear pair with a chain drive. This will greatly simplify and reduce the cost of maintenance.
The input shafts from the gearbox must be able to be directed directly to the rear and front axles.
Wheels are most often taken from small-sized VAZs (“Okas” or “Nivas”) and are shod with rubber corresponding to the operating conditions (weather, terrain, etc.). The braking system is selected depending on the wheels. Steering knuckles - also from Niva or Oka.
Four-wheel drive
If you prefer transportation with all-wheel drive, steering from the car, differentials and a manual transmission drive are required.
The existing frame will not work in this case; a new one should be welded to fit the engine size.
pendants, like steering system, you need to take from the car. On the front, it is necessary to provide a place for installing the gearbox.
Installation all-wheel drive model requires not only special skills of the craftsman, but also additional labor costs. An alternative option - to buy a ready-made all-wheel drive unit - costs money.
Frame
Making the body is far from the easiest stage in the story, called: "how to assemble an ATV with your own hands." Suitable materials are fiberglass and fiberglass, it is easier to make a body kit from the second.
First you need to draw, cut and build from pieces of durable foam, glued or fastened with mounting foam, the “blank” of the body. Then - apply several layers of fiberglass to it, smearing each with epoxy and inserting metal fasteners between them to attach the body to the frame. In conclusion, dry the body thoroughly, then prime, sand and paint.
How to do homemade quad bike- a question that is the dream of almost any young designer.
However, this kind of dream is far from being realized for everyone and far from being at the age at which we would like. But sometimes dreamers still embody what they want into reality.
Drafting skills, ability to perform complex technological processes, having funds and time are the main requirements when creating a homemade vehicle.
Today we'll show you how to build a homemade quad bike using oki parts and show you the process with a selection of photos.
You can find out one of the ways and make sure that it is possible to independently create an ATV from car parts in the example below.
Do-it-yourself all-wheel drive ATV based on the OKA car (amateur designer Sergey Pletnev)
To begin with, we present General characteristics project:
- Length - 2300 mm;
- Width - 1250 mm;
- Height - (extreme points of the wheels) - 1250 mm;
- Base - 1430 mm;
- Clearance - 300 mm;
- Engine - inherited from the car "OKA";
- Wheels - disks: "VAZ" 2121 (Niva);
- Tires - CoordiantOffRoadR15;
- Shock absorbers - "OKA";
- Hubs - "VAZ" 2109;
- Interwheel gearboxes - "VAZ" classic
- Maximum speed - 60 km / h
- The gearbox taken from OKI was modified by replacing the standard main gear pair with a chain drive.
This was done to increase speed on a flat road. And it looks like this:
Assembled
Disassembled
Water pipes (VGP 25x3.2) act as load-bearing parts of the frame. Were purchased in the form of two segments of 7900 mm and weighing 38 kg in the amount of 1150 rubles.
For levers and suspensions, water pipes (VGP 20x2.8) were also required - two pieces 6100 mm long, weighing 20 kg cost 650 rubles.
Two used rear axles from the "penny" (VAZ 2101) - in the amount of 3000 rubles.
From the G8 (VAZ 2108), fists were taken complete with disks, calipers and other things + drive shafts - in total, 4,000 rubles were spent for all these used parts.
Metal sheets, nuts, bolts, washers, silent blocks, etc. came in handy - consumable fasteners and materials for such cases should always be enough.
From the above parts, with the help of welding, a pipe bender and locksmith tools, such a design was created.
Most structural parts are fastened by welding. The carburetor was installed.
Carburetor homemade four-wheel drive ATV
Metal bars for suspension, engine and axles are also secured with welded seams
The hubs are connected to the suspension with new bushings, washers and bolts.
After the frame was assembled, miscalculations began of the nuances of the position of the engine, the functionality of the gearbox and its attachment, as well as the front suspension with steering.
As a result, the following moves were applied:
From the rear post, the axle shafts are connected to the hubs. Welded mount for shock absorbers
The gearbox uses an elongated homemade rod
The picture shows how the mount for the box was connected and the position of the stem from the outside
The steering knuckle is taken from the "VAZ" 2109 and the steering arm is made of a metal plate independently
After a short test drive, it was noticed that the stem from the box would need a rocker to shift gears by hand - this is the most convenient option in the case of a modified box.
I must say that it was modified to increase the gear ratio from the axle to the wheels, since without this intervention, the speed at maximum speed would not have gained more than 45 km / h.
Further Assembly
The side steps are welded to the frame, the front axle is installed, to front axle the cardan is connected from the gearbox, the front shock absorbers are installed. Front axle shafts connected to hubs and axle
The brake system is installed separately for the back of the wheels
Steering and brake system for front wheels installed
Purchased off-road tires (in this case, the most suitable option)
The stage of creating the ATV matrix has come. Mounting foam, cardboard, resin, fiberglass, fittings and more came in handy.
The technology of using materials to create a matrix is a very complex process that requires deep and detailed study.
Light reinforcement and cardboard set the frame of the wings, as well as the front and rear parts of the cladding. The foam was filled with a margin in places where it was supposed to make convex shapes.
The dried foam was processed with a file, a jackhammer, a knife and other tools.
Was installed oil radiator from the helicopter and the first layer of fiberglass is applied
The front suspension is fully assembled. Native ball "VAZ" 2109 from below. Top steering tip from "UAZ"
Finished surface. Side view
The hubs were fitted to the NIVA wheels with special adapters
Hub side view
The matrix is almost ready. Additional parts of the frame are prepared for use as a trunk and bumper at the same time.
The seat is homemade. The steering wheel is borrowed from the Minsk motorcycle. Controls were brought to it.
ATV painting
Painted suspension elements
Assembly
The final part of the work is assembly.
used homemade mufflers. Used as a fuel tank plastic canister. Electronics installed.
From a different angle.
End of work
Completed work.
The panel is borrowed from the OKA car.
We present the ATV of our regular author S. Pletnev from the city of Ocher, Perm Territory. Another machine built by him testifies to the increased design level and professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself...
A year has passed since, when leaving the garage, I tried my first ATV with rear-wheel drive (). And then the thought came: why not now make an all-wheel drive ATV (from the English. All Terrain Vehicle - all-terrain vehicle; similar machines received such an international designation).
Fortunately, at that time a buyer turned up for a buggy (), and the proceeds went to the implementation of a new project.
Year of work for 3 - 4 hours after work and on weekends - and new car was ready for testing, there were only small (and I would say pleasant) improvements: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other little things.
The power unit for my ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid-cooled. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.
Machine frame - spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipelines with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, cross members, etc.) - from VGT-20. The spars are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical one. He bent pipes on a pipe bender, "to the cold." Eyelets (pairs of ears) for attaching the levers and shock absorbers of the suspension were welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets - as the components and assemblies were mounted (in "place").
1 - front wheel(from the car "Chevrolet-Niva", 2 pcs.);
2 - engine (from the car "Oka");
3 - front wheel drive transmission;
4 - gearbox (from the car "Oka");
5 - rear wheel drive transmission;
7 - rear wheel(from the car "Chevrolet-Niva", 2 pcs.);
8 - fuel tank (20-liter canister);
9 - rear trunk;
10 - silencer;
11 - passenger backrest (headrest from the Oka car);
12 - saddle;
13 - clutch basket (from the Oka car);
14 - gear lock lever;
15 - body kit (fiberglass);
16 - steering wheel (from the Ural motorcycle);
17 - instrument panel (from the car "Oka");
18 - front trunk
The transmission of the all-terrain vehicle is peculiar. Although the car is all-wheel drive, but transfer box it doesn't. As you know, in the "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheels (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. That's just myself power unit, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal articulated shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.
The transmission is assembled from units of various domestic cars, mostly "VAZ" models. But ready-made industrial units also had to be finalized. For example, from the gearbox (from Oka), to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod also made another one - elongated, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The stem can be fixed in three positions: for engaging 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is located with right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.
Interwheel gearboxes - from the rear axles of the VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts, together with the "stockings", were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints as hinges are also used in the remaining intermediate shafts of the transmission.
1 - motor (from the car "Oka");
2 - clutch (from the car "Oka");
3 - gearbox;
4 - CV joint (from the car VAZ-2108, 12 pcs);
5 - final drive gearbox with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);
6 - shaft (from a VAZ-2108 car, 6 pcs.);
7 - wheel (from the car "Chevrolet-Niva")
low gear and no diff lock.
Steering - motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automotive type(with steering rods) - below, only simplified, without steering mechanism, with one bipod. The steering wheel was first used from a Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and installed from the Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. At the lower end it has a stroke limiter. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.
The bipod is made of steel sheet 8 mm thick in a shape resembling the letter "T". A hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made at the edge of the "rack" - a steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for ball tips of steering rods. These holes are reinforced with suitable welded washers. The lugs of the bipod are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.
Wheels - 15-inch, from the Chevrolet Niva car. Tires with appropriate rim size 205/70 (width/height as a percentage of width) with off-road tread pattern. The running diameter of the wheel is about 660 mm.
1 - lower spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);
2 - upper spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);
3 - rack (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
4 - support of the rear upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);
5 - rear brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
6 - support of the front upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
7 - front brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
8 - top support front shock absorber(corner 35×35);
9 - rack of the upper support of the front shock absorber (sheet s5, 2 pcs.);
10 - front engine mount support post (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);
11 - rear support leg of the engine mount (sheet s3.2 pcs.);
12 - eyelets for fastening levers and shock absorbers of suspensions (sheet s5, 18 pairs);
13 - saddle mounting bracket (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);
14 - upper cross connection (pipe d20x2.8);
15 - lower cross connection (pipe d20x2.8.2 pcs.);
16 - radiator support (pipe d25x3.2 cut in half lengthwise, 2 pcs.);
17 - front console of the steps (pipe d20x2);
18 - rear console of the steps (pipe d20x2);
19 - connection of the front and rear consoles of the steps (pipe d20x2);
20 - footrest cross member (sheet s5, 4 pcs.);
21 - lug for fastening a fiberglass body kit (sheet s5, set)
Wheel suspension - independent, on two triangular transverse levers each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). The levers are welded from round tubes of VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car "Oka" (rear). Wheel hubs are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers and steering knuckles- from the car VAZ-2109. Both of them had to be improved. I installed wheel studs from the Niva in the hubs, and home-made swing arms in the front fists.
Silencer - self-made, two-section. To protect against temperature warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.
ATV body kit - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for the implementation of the relevant work. But as it turned out - this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.
(a - the upper arm of the front suspension; b - lower arm front suspension; in - the lower arm of the rear suspension; g - the upper arm of the rear suspension; all parts, except for those noted specifically, are made of VGT-20 pipe):
1 - beam (2 pcs.);
2 - cross member;
3 - bushing (pipe d37x32, 2 pcs.);
4 - shock absorber mounting eye (steel, sheet s3);
5 - ball joint (from the steering rod of the Zhiguli car)
First, I made the required body kit contours from a steel square pipe with a section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe easily bends even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be possible to cut off the “tacks” without difficulty. Then he bent the “wings” from hardboard (fibreboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend turned out to be steep, he attached separate strips from the same hardboard. The front end was removed with expanded polystyrene purchased at a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene foam or the same mounting foam, but polystyrene foam turned out to be a more suitable material - it is well cut with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a common structure on a mounting foam.
1 - steering shaft (pipe d20x2.8);
2 - steering wheel connection plate (steel, sheet s6);
3 - brace of the plate (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);
4 - detachable bracket-sleeve of the steering shaft (kapron, sheet s18);
5 - support washer (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);
6 - bipod (steel, sheet 18);
7 - steering limiter (steel, sheet s6);
8 - bearing housing;
9 - thrust tip (steel, circle 15);
10 - thrust bearing
Falshbak - complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of the hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill the place intended for it with layers of mounting foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise the thick volume of foam may not dry inside. Filled in until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse-grained sandpaper.
Under the dashboard, a part went into action dashboard"Oki". I fixed it on the blank, too, with the help of mounting foam. Since the foam is large-pored, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to correspond to the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the block, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, then plastering and painting the block could be neglected.
So, the blockhead is ready and in order to glue a quality product, it took: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 linear meters of thin fiberglass, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. It is highly recommended to wear respiratory protective equipment. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable. But experience, as you know, you can’t buy, so I gained it in the process of work.
I used transparent adhesive tape as a separating layer between the block and the product. Carefully, without gaps, he pasted over the whole blockhead with stripes. It took only 1.5 rolls of wide tape.
I diluted the resin by 200 - 300 grams with a hardener and a plasticizer. I used measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before that, I cut strips of fiberglass in such sizes that large canvases lay on even surfaces, and on irregularities, pieces of fabric could repeat them without making wrinkles. By the way, the fiberglass moderately stretches along the diagonal of the weaves, “flowing around” the desired shape.
First, he thickly smeared one section of the blockhead with epoxy resin, put fiberglass on it and impregnated it again with resin on top. I glued the adjacent piece of fabric using the same technology with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm. I had to work quickly - the resin sets quite quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, I also heated the resin a little near a powerful lighting lamp for better fluidity.
After wrapping the blockhead with fiberglass in one layer, I began to glue it with glass mat. I got the glass mat thick enough, and it turned out to be good for them to gain the thickness of the product. But it does not hug bumps, so I used it only on flat (or with a slight deflection) surfaces and without overlap. Impregnation with resin was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. It should only be taken into account that it takes a lot of resin to impregnate a stackomat, so you need to dilute it more. Uneven surfaces after gluing the stackomat were glued in several layers with a cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had set a little so that the resin did not leak. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day break, it was necessary to “roughen” the surface with coarse sandpaper and degrease it - after all, the resin is completely cured during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even in one layer.
Trunks:
a - front; b - rear
Since I needed a surface, as they say, the smoother the better, and there was not enough experience, dips and pits still remained - I filled them somewhere with one resin, and where with the imposition of pieces of fiberglass. Resin was a bit lacking. I bought more already in the hardware store, in boxes. I liked working with it more, because it was already packaged, and all that remained was to mix the components. And it dried faster than purchased at the company.
After the glued body kit had completely dried, I made cuts in it, dividing the product into three parts: rear fenders and back, false tank with underseat, front fenders and front. Carefully, slightly prying and pulling with his hands with picking, he separated the product in parts without much effort from the blockhead.
Now, having removed the parts, I began to process them separately, bringing them to the desired result. In general, the usual preparatory and painting work on the "whole" technology: first, rough grinding with the removal of large bulges of resin and fiberglass; then painstaking sealing of recesses with putty with fiberglass; then grinding the outer surface and priming with a plasticizer. In conclusion - painting with "metallic" and varnishing with a plasticizer.
Blockhead also neatly cut off and put in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded "in place" mounts on the frame.
In conclusion, I welded front and rear trunks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them, “kenguryatniks” that replace bumpers.
Main data of ATV:
Weight, kg…………………………………………430
Length, mm………………………………………2300
Width, mm
(along the outer sidewalls of tires)………1250
Height, mm:
on the steering wheel……………………………………….1250
on the saddle………………………………………..900
Ground clearance, mm…………………….300
Base, mm…………………………………………1430
Track, mm………………………………………1045
Maximum speed, km/h…………….65
S. PLETNEV, Ocher, Perm Territory
Quite a few hunters, fishermen, and just outdoor enthusiasts dream of their ATV. But the prices of even used equipment are beyond the reach of most people, not to mention new equipment. Do not despair, because today we will learn how to make an ATV with our own hands! This is excellent transport for household needs, for the transportation of trailers, which has a high cross-country ability due to a short wheelbase, as well as easy to drive. But we want to say right away that it will take a lot of time to make a homemade ATV. As practice shows, a project can take from 6 to 12 months on average.
Preparatory stage
So let's get started. First, prepare your tools and equipment. It will take a lot of welding work, for which manual arc welding is quite suitable. Choose electrodes for welding critical and vibration-loaded structures, which will be the ATV frame. By the way, this very frame can be cooked with your own hands from ordinary water pipes. These are easy to find at the nearest scrap metal reception, or metal depot. Choose a pipe diameter from 25 to 32mm, and the wall thickness should be around 3mm. For bending such pipes, it is desirable to have a pipe bender, but if it is not there, then you can bend the pipes for the frame frame manually using a lever, heating the place of the desired bend with a gas burner, and preferably with an oxy-fuel cutter.
Choice of main parts
The next step will be the selection of the necessary parts in the first place, namely:
- engine
- wheels
- shock absorbers
- rear axle
If you want to assemble a simple lightweight quad with a drive only to the rear axle, then it is preferable to choose an engine from a motorcycle of average cubic capacity, from 250 cubic meters and above. Depending on the construction budget, it can be almost any motor from a Soviet motorcycle, preferably with a chain drive, due to which it will be quite easy to drive the rear axle. The axle can be made from a tube made of structural steel. In the center, weld the flanges for fastening the driven star and the disc brake, and install the wheel bearings from the car on the sides, having previously pressed them into the housings made in advance.
The housings are used to attach the axle assembly to the pendulum. The pendulum can be left standard, additionally strengthening it and making a new mount for the disc brake caliper. Also, don't forget to make brake hose mounts along the swingarm.
Our next task is the choice of wheels. And ideal option not only in terms of accessibility, but also in terms of size, there will be wheels from Oka. main feature The fact is that such stamped discs are very light, ideally fit into the proportions of a home-made ATV, and most importantly, rubber from factory quadrics is excellent on them, which will significantly improve patency. How it looks can be seen below:
Selection of a donor for a new frame
How to make an ATV even easier to manufacture? You can simply use a donor frame, for example, from a Ural motorcycle by welding the rear axle to the standard swingarm and only slightly change the front suspension! The thick frame of the Urals is made of good steel, has an excellent margin of safety. And a motor with a lot of torque is perfect for such a purpose. As for the gearbox, it is better to use it from the Dnepr motorcycle. It is designed for good loads, it is distinguished by the clarity of gear shifting, and the most important thing is the presence of reverse gear, which is a mandatory feature of a full-fledged ATV. A photo example of a homemade ATV from the Urals is below:
Steering
Assembling an ATV with your own hands is not an easy task. And perhaps the most difficult thing is to make the steering. To do this, first weld the frame of the front of the ATV, then you will need steering knuckles from a car, for example from a Niva, but any others will do. Then you need to build suspension arms. Pay special attention to the design of the attachment of the levers, since large loads occur in their interface with the frame, so additional stiffening ribs will not be superfluous. Levers, as a rule, are bolted through silent blocks. This is a rubber-metal hinge which is an indispensable link in the suspension. It dampens vibrations of the wheels, preventing vibrations from being transmitted to the frame. The levers can be made according to the drawings.
Move on. What front suspension without shock absorbers? Here you can use 4 motorcycle shock absorbers, one for each arm in the front, and two for the swingarm to dampen the rear axle. fit rear shock absorbers from Izh, but if you are ready to fork out for gas oil with pumping, then this will give you the opportunity to adjust the suspension under road conditions, which is very useful for such equipment as an ATV!
Four-wheel drive and car engine
And how to create an ATV with all-wheel drive yourself, you ask? Above, we considered the simplest option. But a variant is possible not only with a motorcycle engine, but also with a car engine! And then we will tell you how to make an ATV with an engine from Oka. In the case of an all-wheel drive ATV with a car engine, things are much more serious. Here it is no longer possible to use a motorcycle frame as a basis, it will have to be welded completely from scratch under car engine. By the way, it can be not only from Oka, but also from any other, depending on your desires and capabilities. Immediately do not forget about the liquid cooling system. Consider designing the frame in such a way as to place the radiator with the fan in a protected place from forest branches. The engine with gearbox should be mounted along the frame so that the drive shaft from the gearbox is immediately directed to rear axle. To distribute the rotation of the wheels to each wheel, you will need 2 identical bridges, for example from Zhiguli. But you will have to shorten them to install. To increase the cross-country ability, if desired, you can make a reduction chain reducer, compatible with a standard gearbox. In this case, the drive gear should be slightly smaller than the driven gear. By simple calculations of the ratio of the diameters of these gears, you can find out how much it will decrease maximum speed and traction will increase. If the ATV is not going to be used for driving on public roads, then this will be a very significant technical decision.
Increased functionality
Now that the frame and chassis the ATV will be assembled, the engine installed, you need to think about secondary structures, thanks to which it will be practical to use the equipment. Fuel tank well suited from the Ural motorcycle. Its impressive capacity will be enough even for a car engine. An important modification will be the installation of a "snorkel". Since the engine in the frame is located quite low, then air filter respectively draws air from below. To prevent water from getting into it when overcoming fords, it is highly recommended to do this. The exhaust system also needs to be completely redone, with the output of exhaust gases at a fairly high level so that water does not get inside. Also for an ATV you need a large wide seat by moving the weight of the body, it will be possible to achieve better control when moving. Aluminum sheet metal can be made into underbody protection to protect the front suspension arms and engine. Not superfluous in the forest will be a winch installed in front. Fog lights can be used to illuminate the road.
Work on appearance
In conclusion, to bring the ATV into proper appearance similar to the real you need a case. To do this, you need epoxy resin ED-20 and fiberglass. These components can be purchased at a hardware or hardware store.
To give this shape, first you need to cut a blank from dense foam, which is also sold in large hardware stores in the form of 1 m2 plates, which is very convenient for creating such projects. Then fiberglass is applied in several layers, while each layer is smeared with resin. The more layers, the stronger the case. Do not forget about the metal fasteners that must be inserted between the layers, in the future, for which the body will be attached to the frame of the ATV. After drying, it can be primed, sanded and painted. This fiberglass body is light weight and very durable.
With a serious approach to business, such an ATV will not be much inferior to the factory one, and in terms of assembly costs, it turns out to be many times cheaper. Despite the fact that you can collect such a thing for yourself and get a lot of driving pleasure.
An ATV is actually any four-wheeled vehicle, since in Latin "quadro" - "four", In the vastness of the CIS, this name most often means all-wheel drive, representing a symbiosis of a motorcycle and a car. From a motorcycle, an ATV took over mobility, maneuverability, lightness, speed, and from a car - excellent cross-country ability, power and controllability. The result is a unique vehicle designed for a variety of purposes.
The domestic market provides only foreign models of ATVs, the cost of which is often sky-high. At the same time, on secondary market transport, you can easily find used motorcycles and cars at an extremely low price.
For example, the Ural motorcycle - large, bulky, heavy and "gluttonous" has an excellent four-stroke engine with reverse gear and is worth every penny. For this reason, it is much cheaper and more interesting for enthusiasts to create their own designs of these SUVs.
A typical factory representative of ATVs - shiny, neatly assembled, strong and powerful.
His home-made counterpart, which is slightly inferior in appearance, and even more so in terms of power.
How to make an ATV with your own hands
Before starting the assembly, it is necessary to compile a detailed list of units and parts that will be needed to create your own offspring, develop a work plan and design drawing.
Engine: the best choice
It is logical that, first of all, it is necessary to find the "heart" of the future "beast" - the power unit. Absolutely anyone will do, from a conventional walk-behind tractor to a six-liter V12 - there are such precedents. In most cases, motorcycle engines are used - they are economical and small-sized.
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To use high gear ratios under normal operating conditions, a Minsk or Ural engine will suffice. In summer, the issue of overheating arises, so air-cooled models should be chosen. Another good option is boxer engines Soviet-made, an indisputable plus of which is powerful traction and a completely unpretentious driveline.
Suspensions: back and front
There are two most common ATV rear suspension solutions.
- Reduction-cardan system. The design turns out to be as lightweight and simple as possible, but there is no differential, which, in principle, can be sacrificed for the sake of the previously named advantages.
- Use of a road bridge. The design turns out to be extremely heavy, and if there is no desire to have an ATV with an automobile base, it is necessary to shorten the bridge, which is a very non-trivial task. Of the pluses, it is worth highlighting only the presence of a differential, which is useful when moving along the tracks.
There are huge possibilities for front suspension and steering. ATV suspension arms carry a significantly lower load than automobile ones, respectively, they can be made independently using improvised means for this. The best option- creation of a suspension on the basis of the existing motorcycle "Ural".
Frame: drawings and alternative
The best solution is a solid construction of pipes or profiles welded together.
Ideal - remove the frame from the donor motorcycle and weld it up necessary elements- this eliminates a number of problems, but the design may turn out to be unnecessarily complex.
ATV assembly
Having prepared necessary tools, donor vehicles and freeing up time, you can start creating your own ATV:
Thanks to a reliable, time-tested design, excellent power and traction, it is the Ural motorcycle that is the most popular donor for homemade ATVs.
Video clip: "Wasp" 4x4
The video below describes the design of a homemade ATV, its characteristics, properties and features.
Photo review
Photos of ATVs based on domestic motorcycles and cars:
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As you can see, using the outdated and inexpensive achievements of the Soviet automobile industry, you can create amazing vehicles that will amuse your pride and satisfy most transport tasks.