Hello!
A small topic on building a muffler "directly". The example is based on a moped, but it is no different from a car one. To do everything really on the "knee" with a mallet in the barn, you just need to order a couple of parts from a familiar drunk turner and find a piece of stainless steel. I have a factory at hand, where I have round-the-clock access to metals of various brands and machines. At the beginning, we measure out which jar will be in size. Multiply the diameter by 3.14 and get the circle length in expanded form, respectively. it’s better to take it in a film, for which you yourself will understand, but it will work without a film. We make a flat pipe and weld it with spot welding.
Next, the turner (I sharpened it myself) turned out 2 washers for us according to the desired diameter.
And what is the film on the pipe for? For the inscriptions, of course!) For myself, I skolkhoz Pasanskaya pontovy inscription ZiD Sport.
If there is no film, you can stick a wide electrical tape. We first print the inscription on the printer, then glue it to the pipe and cut it with a scalpel or special. with a knife. Then he carefully removes the elements we do not need and voila, the stencil is ready. We paint. 
We rejoice at the received inscription 
Next, you need to make a pipe of the desired diameter inside the muffler from a grid or lattice with cells with a finger. 
We insert all this so that the holes coincide with this pipe, we fill the edges with dense cotton wool such as Ursa or Knauf (these are construction heaters). This wool can withstand a sufficiently high temperature and does not fly out of the pipe due to the mesh inside. The middle remains completely free even by shining a flashlight there we will even see the branch pipe)
That's all. I got it all for free. 
How to make a muffler on a motorcycle - this question is asked by many motorcycle owners, especially domestic ones, who have appearance regular factory mufflers leaves much to be desired. The need for manufacturing homemade muffler, can occur even among owners of imported motorcycles, for example, when tuning them (customizing).
You can, of course, by paying a certain amount of money, buy ready-made mufflers from some company, but often they are not suitable for some bike models and their mountings have to be redone. And yes, they don't cost much. In this article, we will look at how to make do-it-yourself motorcycle mufflers on a minimal budget, and what you need for this.
In general, in one article it is simply not realistic to describe the manufacture of mufflers for all types and models of motorcycles, because all bikes are different, the muffler attachment points are the same, and there may be several variants of muffler shapes and their attachment points, even for one motorcycle model.
But still, having described the manufacture of a silencer of a certain type and shape, this will serve as an example for the manufacture of any other exhaust pipes and silencers, because the manufacturing principle is almost the same, with the exception of some small things (pipe diameters, sizes and pipe attachment points).
The manufacture of two different options mufflers that differ in their internal design. That is, I will describe the manufacture of an ordinary quiet muffler with partitions, according to the factory type. And the manufacture of a straight-through muffler will also be described, which will add power to the bike, but it will also sound louder. And so we went.
Tools and materials for the manufacture of a silencer
Before starting the manufacture of silencers and their nozzles, you should decide on the material and tool. Of the tools, you will need a grinder, a welding machine, a pipe bender, and you may need a pipe trimmer if, for example, you want to connect two pipes into one muffler (however, this can also be done using a grinder, but a little longer). Well, you will need a familiar turner to grind the adapters between the exhaust pipes and muffler banks.
From the materials you will need a stainless thin-walled pipe for pipes and muffler cans. The pipe for the body (can) can be used from a factory muffler, or you can buy a polished stainless furniture pipe, now it is on sale in furniture fittings stores and is used for racks of various tables or cabinets. Polished stainless steel pipe can also be purchased at handrail stores.
You can look for a pipe for pipes in auto shops and use pipes for cars. By the way, you can purchase pipes with ready-made (bent) different radii of curvature - this will subsequently help to assemble and weld pipes without using an expensive pipe bender (but more on that below). And stainless pipes for muffler cans can be bought at furniture fittings stores - already polished stainless steel pipes are sold there (they are used for furniture racks).
And in order to know more precisely how much and what material you need, you should sketch out a sketch of future mufflers. Of course, the shape of the muffler and its pipes can be different, and for example, for many custom, the exhaust pipes are the muffler, that is, they do not have separate cans and mufflers at all (for example, as in the photo on the left).
But to describe the manufacture of such exhaust system(which has only pipes) does not make sense, since below I will describe the manufacture of exhaust pipes for conventional mufflers with silencers, and the principle of work on the manufacture of all pipes is almost the same.
To get started, measure the diameter of the exhaust port in your bike's engine cylinder(s) - this will tell you what diameter pipe you need for the pipes. However, you can also use pipes from regular (factory) pipes, just lengthening them, if for example you want to make a muffler can shorter than the standard one. If you have to lengthen the pipes, then we measure how much and what length (and diameter) the pipe will need, and buy it.
How to make a muffler with mufflers for a motorcycle.
To make a quiet muffler with mufflers inside, it will be necessary, in addition to making the muffler can itself and its pipe, to make a so-called flute - that is, a tube with partitions that create an obstacle (maze) for sound waves. An example is a factory flute, as in the photo below.
And the more baffles, the quieter the exhaust. However, too many baffles can reduce engine power, so everything should be in moderation.
An example would be the number of baffles on your stock muffler. If you want to make a slightly louder sound, then you can make one less baffle. The diameter of the partitions should be 1 mm smaller than the inner diameter of the tube of the can - this will allow you to effortlessly insert and remove the finished flute for periodic cleaning of carbon deposits.
There may be several options for flutes and partitions, but I publish the two simplest and most effective designs that have been worked out for a long time in the photographs on the left and below. In the first design, holes are created for the exhaust gases (see photo of the flute and photo on the left).
And in the second design, the labyrinth is created by tubes welded into the partitions. By the way, on many modern motorcycles, they use a maze of tubes (see the photo of the sportbike muffler above), and this design was used a long time ago on motorcycles of the 50s - photo on the left.
The distance between the baffles should be about the same and match the length of the tube of the can, so before you start making a flute with baffles, you should cut the can to the size that you like and which is suitable for your bike.
If the distance between the partitions is equal along the entire length of the muffler can, then this will allow the sound waves to be evenly distributed.
And so that the flute does not dangle inside the muffler can, the outer tubes of the flute should be tightly put on the inside of the adapter, where distance B is indicated in the figure on the left.
Adapters (two for each muffler) should be ordered by a turner to be machined from stainless steel, aluminum or titanium, black steel can also be used, but it will have to be chrome plated. The drawing is shown in the figure on the left, but the shape may not necessarily be the same as in these figures, but somewhat different, for example, the front, as well as the rear adapter, may be in the shape of a cone. And the rear adapter - the nozzle can be ordered to be machined by a turner in the form of a rocket nozzle. Or make a nozzle in the form of a multi-barreled machine gun (as in the photo at the beginning of this article), it all depends on the flight of fancy.
But when turning adapters of any shape, it should be noted that the diameter A must be equal to the inner diameter of the tube of the can that you will use. And the largest diameter B of the cone should be equal to the outer diameter of the cone of the outlet pipes, and the diameter C should be equal to the inner diameter of the flute pipe.
After making the adapters, everything is assembled as in the figure on the left. It remains only to fix the adapters to the muffler bank. The front adapter can be connected to the jar in a non-detachable way, that is, by welding or rivets in a circle. But the rear adapter (from which exhaust gases will come out), it is better to fix the can to the can body with screws.
To do this, a pair of holes is drilled in the adapter and an M5 or M6 internal thread is cut. Collapsible connection (on screws) of the adapter and the can, if necessary, will allow you to remove the rear adapter and remove the flute for cleaning from carbon deposits. By the way, owners of choppers or old classic motorcycles can also make or order a nozzle for the rear adapter, for example, as in the photo on the left, which is welded to the rear adapter, or put on tightly and fastened with a pair of rivets.
When the muffler is assembled, it remains to weld with inside cans of lugs for attaching it to the frame. But you can not weld the fastening ears to the jar, but drill 7 mm holes from the inside of the adapters, and cut the M8 internal thread. And bolts (or studs) will be screwed into this thread to fasten the muffler to the frame. Which option to choose, everyone chooses for himself. But both options are much better and neater than the factory muffler mounting with clamps, which is used on some domestic motorcycles.
Having fixed the homemade muffler on the frame, now you can measure with a tape measure how much you need to lengthen the standard exhaust pipe in order to dock it with the new muffler, or make a new pipe. In the manufacture of pipes at the factory, of course, a thin-walled pipe is used, and I also advise you to use it (preferably stainless steel) to lighten the weight of the exhaust system.
But the main difficulty in the manufacture of outlet pipes from a thin-walled pipe is to make a high-quality bend of the pipe under the desired bend radius, without folds and dents. For this purpose, well-known customizers use expensive mandrel pipe benders (more on this in the link to pipe benders above). Novice customizers, and most just motorcycle owners who decide to improve the appearance of their bike mufflers, cannot afford such machines.
But now you can already find ready-made bent pipes or pipe fragments on sale (like in the photo on the left - they are made of stainless steel and are designed for railings). For V-shaped engines of Harley motorcycles or Japanese choppers, fragments of a bent 55 pipe used for mufflers of some cars may also work.
And by cutting at different angles, then joining and welding the bent fragments together, it is possible to make pipes with almost any bizarre bend shape. After welding the fragments, of course, all welds are ground and then polished, and the exhaust pipe looks like one piece.
In the manufacture of the exhaust pipe, it should be ensured that it reaches the muffler can along its length, and is tightly inserted into the hole in the front adapter. By the way, it is useful to make a small cone both on the pipe and in the hole of the adapter (only 0.5 - 1 mm, see the drawing of the adapter, where the cone is indicated by an arrow) and then the pipe will fit very tightly into the muffler adapter. But if you wish, you can still use a special heat-resistant sealant, which is used to mount the exhaust system of cars.
Of course, what was described above is not the only option for manufacturing mufflers and their partitions. There are many options, and some even make a silencer system, the same as a gun (barrel) silencer - see photo on the left.
Or, for example, for custom silencers, many customizers do not use a separate can and adapters at all, that is, the exhaust pipes themselves are silencers. Only the outlet pipes can smoothly bend and expand, and the damping elements (flute or part of the flute) - if any, are simply inserted tightly into the pipe and fixed with some kind of inconspicuous screw from the inner (not visible from the outside) part of the pipe.
And in such mufflers, if some kind of partitions are installed, but only in order to remove the high frequencies of sound waves, and the lower exhaust spectrum, which gives solidity to the sound, remains. Tuning the sound of a muffler is a science, and in order to achieve the desired sound, some customizers try several different designs of mufflers until they achieve the desired result. Some even keep their designs a secret.
How to make a muffler for a motorcycle straight through.
Many owners, both stock motorcycles and custom ones, use a straight-through muffler instead of standard mufflers, which adds both power and sound. In addition, a solid sound contributes to the safety of a motorcyclist when driving in traffic jams, and it is more often noticed by those drivers who do not know what the rear-view mirrors are for.
But buying a forward flow for a motorcycle from some reputable company is not cheap. Therefore, it makes sense to click on the link and read about the manufacture of forward flow in more detail. But in this article I will describe some of the nuances of manufacturing, as well as how to convert a factory muffler into a forward flow.
It is easier to convert a factory muffler into a straight-through one, since you can use a standard can as a body. Especially if your bike has a branded regular bank with the logo of some reputable company. After a careful alteration, an ordinary muffler will turn into a straight-through one and will also be with the logo of the same company. And if you make a forward flow muffler with your own hands, using a regular branded can, you can save a decent amount of money. Since straight-through mufflers from reputable companies can cost a lot, about $ 500 - $ 600 (depending on the region and motorcycle model).
The essence of the alteration lies in the careful disassembly of the regular muffler. You should be especially careful when disassembling mufflers with a carbon can (carbon fiber), as carbon, subjected to temperature effects, becomes even more brittle. Steel or stainless (titanium) cans are much easier to work with.
So, having disassembled the regular jar, we take out all the insides (flute with partitions) and instead of them we should make (preferably from stainless steel) a tube with many small holes. The diameter of the tube is about the same as the diameter of the exhaust pipes on your bike (30 - 50 mm). And the length of the pipe should be such that it is enough from the front adapter to the back cover, that is, almost the same as the length of a standard can.
We drill a lot of holes in the tube with a diameter of 3-5 mm (see photo on the left or above - all dimensions are conditional and can be changed). Next, the tube is welded or riveted to the front adapter of the standard silencer, and the back of the tube will have to be tightly put on during assembly on the inner tubular protrusion of the rear adapter cover (that is, in the same way as the flute of a conventional silencer is put on, on the protrusion of the rear adapter - see . drawing of the assembled conventional muffler, a little higher in the text).
After the perforated tube is welded to the front adapter, it is tightly wrapped (in several layers) with mineral or basalt wool.
The number of layers and the thickness of the winding should be such that the regular can is tightly put on the winding when assembling the muffler. After putting on the can and docking it with the front adapter (using rivets), it remains to put the back cover on the can and the perforated tube and fasten everything with rivets or screws (see photo on the left).
When joining a perforated tube and a protrusion in the rear cover of the muffler, you can use a thermal sealant to seal if, for example, the perforated tube sits loosely on the protrusion of the rear cover (with a gap).
That seems to be all. I hope this article will help novice motorcyclists or customizers at least a little, answer the question of how to make a muffler for a motorcycle and put these tips into practice, good luck to everyone.
Let's talk about a broad topic correct selection exhaust system. Motorcycle exhaust system tuning.
For free breathing, we need not only to breathe deeply, but also to exhale freely. There is no point in taking a deep breath with a bad breath.
I propose to divide the exhaust into several components:
Collector.
Catalyst.
Power boost valve.
Bank (Slip On).
First and foremost is weight loss. A standard exhaust weighs between 10 and 15 kg. A tuned muffler with a racing manifold assembly weighs up to 5 kg. And weight reduction by 5-10 kg is a very serious tuning, which is given for relatively little money. Now let's move on to the characteristics. There are many elements in the standard exhaust that inhibit the free flow of exhaust gases. Catalyst... of course, we are not against saving the earth and the environment, but on the other hand, it's a shame when you are passed over a meter before the finish line. Therefore, we remove the catalyst immediately and mercilessly. Then comes the power boost valve. This is a damper with an electric motor that covers exhaust pipe slowing down the flow of gases, thereby forcing the engine to work under a small load, giving out more power in an "uncomfortable" rev range.
By removing the valve, we get an even greater failure on low revs engine. Considering that our motorcycle already has null filter, it turns out that the bottom of the motorcycle will not go at all and that's not all. The rule is simple, the freer the flow of gases, the faster the motorcycle on high revs and the worse at low. That is, the overall range of work is shifting upwards, in fact, for this we tune the technique. Not everything is so sad, but first things first. Let's go to the bank. A little lyrical digression. They often change the jar on motorcycles (Slip it), that is, the range of work changes slightly upwards, very slightly, but tuning is considered 🙂 In fact, it’s just the sound that changes and there’s no question of any increase, it’s like driving around the city on slicks 🙂 Pseudo-sport motorcycle. But in our case, all the braking elements of the exhaust system were replaced. Therefore, the replacement of the bank is no longer an issue. By replacing the muffler, we increase the sound pressure (I remind you that on most European tracks there is a limit of 95 decibels for the maximum noise level, with a very loud exhaust you can get a disqualification) But most famous manufacturers make cans with a noise level limit. But in any case, the movement of exhaust gases is accelerated compared to the standard "can".
So we shifted the power distribution even more upwards, now the motorcycle does not ride at all at the bottom, most likely at the top too, but much better than the standard. This completes the replacement of the exhaust system. If everything is chosen correctly, then the bike should stop running normally and get a bunch of dips in the ranges. Moreover, if you ride like that, there is a chance to change the engine with burnt valves or pistons due to the wrong mixture.
How to make a muffler for a motorcycle - this question is asked by many motorcycle owners, especially domestic ones, in which the appearance of regular factory mufflers leaves much to be desired. The need to make a homemade muffler may arise even among owners of imported motorcycles, for example, when tuning them (customizing). You can, of course, by paying a certain amount of money, buy ready-made mufflers from some company, but often they are not suitable for some bike models and their mountings have to be redone. And yes, they don't cost much. In this article, we will look at how to make do-it-yourself motorcycle mufflers on a minimal budget, and what you need for this.
In general, in one article it is simply not realistic to describe the manufacture of mufflers for all types and models of motorcycles, because all bikes are different, the muffler attachment points are the same, and there may be several variants of muffler shapes and their attachment points, even for one motorcycle model.
But still, having described the manufacture of a silencer of a certain type and shape, this will serve as an example for the manufacture of any other exhaust pipes and silencers, because the manufacturing principle is almost the same, with the exception of some small things (pipe diameters, sizes and pipe attachment points).
The manufacture of two different types of mufflers, which differ in their internal construction, will be described below. That is, I will describe the manufacture of an ordinary quiet muffler with partitions, according to the factory type. And the manufacture of a straight-through muffler will also be described, which will add power to the bike, but it will also sound louder. And so we went.
Tools and materials for the manufacture of a silencer.
Before starting the manufacture of silencers and their nozzles, you should decide on the material and tool. From the tools you will need a grinder, a pipe bender, and it may be required if, for example, you want to connect two pipes into one muffler (however, this can also be done using a grinder, but a little longer). Well, you will need a familiar turner to grind the adapters between the exhaust pipes and muffler banks.
1 - case (bank), 2,3,4,5 - partitions, 6 - cap, 7 - cap fastening screws, 8 - flute holes, 9 - flute pipe.
There may be several options for flutes and partitions, but I publish the two simplest and most effective designs that have been worked out for a long time in the photographs on the left and below. In the first design, holes are created for the exhaust gases (see photo of the flute and photo on the left).
And in the second design, the labyrinth is created by tubes welded into the partitions. By the way, on many modern motorcycles, they use a maze of tubes (see the photo of the sportbike muffler above), and this design was used a long time ago on motorcycles of the 50s - photo on the left.
The distance between the baffles should be about the same and match the length of the tube of the can, so before you start making a flute with baffles, you should cut the can to the size that you like and which is suitable for your bike.
If the distance between the partitions is equal along the entire length of the muffler can, then this will allow the sound waves to be evenly distributed.
And so that the flute does not dangle inside the muffler can, the outer tubes of the flute should be tightly put on the inside of the adapter, where distance B is indicated in the figure on the left.
Adapters (two for each muffler) should be ordered by a turner to be machined from stainless steel, aluminum or titanium, black steel can also be used, but it will have to. The drawing is shown in the figure on the left, but the shape may not necessarily be like in these figures, but somewhat different, for example, the front, as well as the rear adapter, may be in the shape of a cone. And the rear adapter - the nozzle can be ordered to be machined by a turner in the form of a rocket nozzle. Or make a nozzle in the form of a multi-barreled machine gun (as in the photo at the beginning of this article), it all depends on the flight of fancy.
But when turning adapters of any shape, it should be noted that the diameter A must be equal to the inner diameter of the tube of the can that you will use. And the largest diameter B of the cone should be equal to the outer diameter of the cone of the outlet pipes, and the diameter C should be equal to the inner diameter of the flute pipe.
After making the adapters, everything is assembled as in the figure on the left. It remains only to fix the adapters to the muffler bank. The front adapter can be connected to the jar in a non-detachable way, that is, by welding or rivets in a circle. But the rear adapter (from which exhaust gases will come out), it is better to fix the can to the can body with screws.
To do this, a pair of holes is drilled in the adapter and an M5 or M6 internal thread is cut. Collapsible connection (on screws) of the adapter and the can, if necessary, will allow you to remove the rear adapter and remove the flute for cleaning from carbon deposits. By the way, owners of choppers or old classic motorcycles can also make or order a nozzle for the rear adapter, for example, as in the photo on the left, which is welded to the rear adapter, or put on tightly and fastened with a pair of rivets.
When the muffler is assembled, it remains to weld ears on the inside of the can to attach it to the frame. But you can not weld the fastening ears to the jar, but drill 7 mm holes from the inside of the adapters, and cut the M8 internal thread. And bolts (or studs) will be screwed into this thread to fasten the muffler to the frame. Which option to choose, everyone chooses for himself. But both options are much better and neater than the factory muffler mounting with clamps, which is used on some domestic motorcycles.
Having fixed the homemade muffler on the frame, now you can measure with a tape measure how much you need to lengthen the standard exhaust pipe in order to dock it with the new muffler, or make a new pipe. In the manufacture of pipes at the factory, of course, a thin-walled pipe is used, and I also advise you to use it (preferably stainless steel) to lighten the weight of the exhaust system.
But the main difficulty in the manufacture of outlet pipes from a thin-walled pipe is to make a high-quality bend of the pipe under the desired bend radius, without folds and dents. For this purpose, well-known customizers use expensive mandrel pipe benders (more on this in the link to pipe benders above). Novice customizers, and most just motorcycle owners who decide to improve the appearance of their bike mufflers, cannot afford such machines.
But now you can already find ready-made bent pipes or pipe fragments on sale (like in the photo on the left - they are made of stainless steel and are designed for railings). For V-shaped engines of Harley motorcycles or Japanese choppers, fragments of a bent 55 pipe used for mufflers of some cars may also work.
And by cutting at different angles, then joining and welding the bent fragments together, it is possible to make pipes with almost any bizarre bend shape. After welding the fragments, of course, all welds are ground and then polished, and the exhaust pipe looks like one piece.
In the manufacture of the exhaust pipe, it should be ensured that it reaches the muffler can along its length, and is tightly inserted into the hole in the front adapter. By the way, it is useful to make a small cone both on the pipe and in the hole of the adapter (only 0.5 - 1 mm, see the drawing of the adapter, where the cone is indicated by an arrow) and then the pipe will fit very tightly into the muffler adapter. But if you wish, you can still use a special heat-resistant sealant, which is used to mount the exhaust system of cars.
Of course, what was described above is not the only option for manufacturing mufflers and their partitions. There are many options, and some even make a silencer system, the same as a gun (barrel) silencer - see photo on the left.
Or, for example, for custom silencers, many customizers do not use a separate can and adapters at all, that is, the exhaust pipes themselves are silencers. Only the outlet pipes can smoothly bend and expand, and the damping elements (flute or part of the flute) - if any, are simply inserted tightly into the pipe, and fixed with some kind of inconspicuous screw, from the inner (not visible from the outside) part of the pipe.
And in such mufflers, if some kind of partitions are installed, but only in order to remove the high frequencies of sound waves, and the lower exhaust spectrum, which gives solidity to the sound, remains. Tuning the sound of a muffler is a science, and in order to achieve the desired sound, some customizers try several different designs of mufflers until they achieve the desired result. Some even keep their designs a secret.
How to make a muffler for a motorcycle straight through.
Many owners, both stock motorcycles and custom ones, use a straight-through muffler instead of standard mufflers, which adds both power and sound. In addition, a solid sound contributes to the safety of a motorcyclist when driving in traffic jams, and it is more often noticed by those drivers who do not know what the rear-view mirrors are for.
But buying a forward flow for a motorcycle from some reputable company is not cheap. I already wrote how to make it for cars (those who wish can read about it), and the device of automobile and motorcycle direct currents is almost the same, except for their sizes. Therefore, it makes sense to click on the link and read about the manufacture of forward flow in more detail. But in this article I will describe some of the nuances of manufacturing, as well as how to convert a factory muffler into a forward flow.
It is easier to convert a factory muffler into a straight-through one, since you can use a standard can as a body. Especially if your bike has a branded regular bank with the logo of some reputable company. After a careful alteration, an ordinary muffler will turn into a straight-through one and will also be with the logo of the same company. And if you make a forward flow muffler with your own hands, using a regular branded can, you can save a decent amount of money. Since straight-through mufflers from reputable companies can cost a lot, about $ 500 - $ 600 (depending on the region and motorcycle model).
The essence of the alteration lies in the careful disassembly of a regular muffler (how to disassemble a forward flow or a regular regular muffler, I described in an article on repairing a straight-through muffler, the article is located). You should be especially careful when disassembling mufflers with a carbon can (carbon fiber), as carbon, subjected to temperature effects, becomes even more brittle. Steel or stainless (titanium) cans are much easier to work with.
So, having disassembled the regular jar, we take out all the insides (flute with partitions) and instead of them we should make (preferably from stainless steel) a tube with many small holes. The diameter of the tube is about the same as the diameter of the exhaust pipes on your bike (30 - 50 mm). And the length of the pipe should be such that it is enough from the front adapter to the back cover, that is, almost the same as the length of a standard can.
We drill a lot of holes in the tube with a diameter of 3-5 mm (see photo on the left or above - all dimensions are conditional and can be changed). Next, the tube is welded or riveted to the front adapter of the standard muffler, and the back of the tube will have to be tightly put on during assembly on the inner tubular protrusion of the rear adapter cover (that is, in the same way as the flute of a conventional silencer is put on, on the protrusion of the rear adapter - see . drawing of the assembled conventional muffler, a little higher in the text).
After the perforated tube is welded to the front adapter, it is tightly wrapped (in several layers) with mineral or basalt wool. 
The number of layers and the thickness of the winding should be such that the regular can is tightly put on the winding when assembling the muffler. After putting on the can and docking it with the front adapter (using rivets), it remains to put the back cover on the can and the perforated tube and fasten everything with rivets or screws (see photo on the left).
When joining a perforated tube and a protrusion in the rear cover of the muffler, you can use a thermal sealant to seal if, for example, the perforated tube sits loosely on the protrusion of the rear cover (with a gap).
That seems to be all. I hope this article will help novice motorcyclists or customizers at least a little, answer the question of how to make a muffler for a motorcycle and put these tips into practice, good luck to everyone.
Make a straight-through muffler with my own hands- The activity is easy and fun. Since the entire motorcycle is in plain sight, making it a bike decoration is not difficult.
Silencer material
Before you decide to create your own masterpiece of forward flow on a motorcycle, you can familiarize yourself with the ready-made mufflers available for sale. On the market there are models from various materials:
Of course, their prices are also different. You can find a suitable one, given the size of the motorcycle, or you can choose the muffler that is recommended by the manufacturer. Installing a ready-made forward flow on a motorcycle will take much less time. But if you still want to do it yourself, then you should be patient.
Production of a direct-flow muffler
In order not to disrupt the operation of the engine and prevent the motorcycle from catching fire, before we start making a forward flow to the motorcycle with our own hands, we will take measurements from the bike and draw up a drawing:
The forward flow to the motorcycle is ready. Now it can be installed.
Care and care
The main problem with the forward flow of mufflers on a motorcycle is soot, which collects inside and settles on the walls. The more it accumulates, the more it interferes with the exit of exhaust gases, and, accordingly, the engine works harder.
The second problem is the burning of the material (for example, glass wool) inside the muffler. This becomes noticeable when the timbre of the exhaust sound changes.
So that these problems do not interfere with enjoying riding your favorite bike, you need to periodically look into the muffler and clean it, change the filler.
how to make muffler quieter
As a rule, the motorcycle owner will do everything to be heard. There are a lot of tips on how to make the roar of the motor unforgettably loud. But what if, on the contrary, you want to get rid of the "wild roar"? Here are some tips:
- Install another muffler as specified by the manufacturer.
- Replace muffler filling with soundproofing material.
- Instead of the factory one, put a two-chamber full-size muffler.
- If the loud sound is due to wear on the inner tube, it should be replaced.
- Install the resonator. In the resonator chamber, the sound is damped before it enters the muffler can.
- Use additional resonating tips.
- Acoustic tape may help. It is used both outside and inside the muffler, as well as around pipes. It reduces vibrations and decibel levels.
- Install catalytic converter. In general, it is designed to reduce the proportion of harmful substances in exhaust gases, but it also does a good job of soundproofing and vibration.