I will try to collect all the information available at the moment.
The hatch for access to the fuel pump from the passenger compartment is made in order to be able to repair, replace and diagnose the fuel pump and other elements of the fuel system in the tank without removing the fuel tank. In the standard version, this can only be done by removing the tank, and removing it with gasoline is not the most pleasant / cheap pleasure. Those. in fact, if the fuel pump malfunctions, you can buy a fuel pump from the VAZ 2110 in any village and replace it and continue to drive quietly.
Moreover, on some very solid cars of other brands, hatches are already made at the factory, here are examples: A hatch for accessing the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (P) (post #18084660)
Advantages:
1. It is possible to replace/repair the fuel pump, fuel gauge and other elements of the fuel system without removing the tank. Added on 08/17/2013 Incl. essentially in the open field. You will only need to buy a turbine in the nearest store. Here is an example from life: A hatch for accessing the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (P) (post #14418759)
2. You can see firsthand how the fuel system in the tank functions. Example: Pressure in the fuel line, rail (message #10080584) And try to do it somehow differently!
2.1 You can check the voltage at the connector that goes to the fuel pump at the time of the problem and make an assumption that the problem is in the fuel pump or in the electrician. (added 04/13/2011)
3. Feel the smell of gasoline in the cabin if gasoline starts to ooze through the fuel pump cover. If everything is working properly, then there will be no smell of gasoline in the cabin. Tested by many teammates.
4. Change the fuel pump 4 times a day. With the removal of the tank, such a trick will not work. I had to do this until I realized that gasoline was leaving. see point 2
Additionally: Removing the tank does not give any advantages compared to the hole.
Flaws:
1. The rigidity of the body may be broken. Very debatable. There is no evidence. There are also no examples.
2. Corrosion is possible in the place of the cut hatch. Personally, I have not a hint for 2 years.
2. The smell of gasoline in the cabin is possible. see item 3 Advantages.
3. You can cut yourself on the edges of the beam when unscrewing the fuel pump cover. See ways to unscrew the fuel pump cover. Skillfully, it is possible and not to do such a thing.
Hatch options:
1. Using Dremel from Malish: Hatch for access to the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (P) (post #3056365)
2. Similar but with a different mounting option from petrakov: Hatch for access to the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (post #5001144)
3. Similar but with a different mounting option from Feeler: Hatch for access to the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (post #5368058)
4. Using a chisel from evser Hatch for access to the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (post #5521722)
5. Using a hacksaw blade from martinok Hatch for access to the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (P) (post #14003088)
Important: added 05/06/2012
Before cutting the hatch, remove the rubber plug and make sure that the fuel pump is there. Models Ford Focus ZX4/ZX5 the fuel pump is not under the rubber plug but here: Ford Focus ZX4/ZX5 is an American focus since 2005. (P) (post #8677564)
If you don’t check, you can cut out the hatch and not find the fuel pump there, examples:
1. Hatch for access to the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (P) (post #4486373)
2. Hatch for access to the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (P) (post #12204198)
How not to do I don't want to offend my teammates in any way.
1. "I cut metal with scissors and cut off the hose - with a red fitting that - now I don't know what to do" (from sdik) hatch for access to the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (post #3349038)
2. "In no case do not use a screwdriver - when doing this process, the fuel supply hose pierced - this is a specific popandos." (from Efimov Dmitry)
Hatch for access to the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (post #3502471)
3. "I accidentally drilled a hole in the tank, how can I fix it?" (from AnTe4ka)
Hatch for access to the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (P) (post #12962322)
Ways to unscrew the fuel pump cover:
1. Using a cut timing belt. pounces with an overlap strap and stretch. Super! Not a hint of the possibility of injury. I am attaching a photo of the timing belt on the cover. In the photo, how to unscrew the lid to simply screw it in the other direction.
2. Added on 10/07/2012 Using a special tool, for example: Fuel pump cover remover LICOTA ATA-0560 The price is about 1000 rubles.
Additional photos: Hatch for access to the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (P) (post #13191935)
3. Using a special key (hand made): Hatch for access to the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (message #3504613) (thanks to teammate Vasily.N)
3.1 Option homemade key from Terminator4(with dimensions) hatch for access to the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (P) (post #13810798)
3.2 Option homemade key from Maikl-822 Hatch for access to the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (P) (post #12345166)
3.3 Option homemade key from 72dimedrol Hatch for access to the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (P) (post #12761397)
4. We take a bar, screwdriver, file, etc. we rest with one end on the edge of the lid, and knock on the other end. Important: in this way you have to be very careful, because. you can break the cover or break off the ribs, then there will be nothing to unscrew.
Added on 08/01/2013 Note: before screwing the fuel pump cover, lubricate the threads with grease, so that it would be easier to unscrew the next time.
Detailed instructions on how to pull out the fuel pump:
1. Hatch for access to the fuel pump from the passenger compartment. (P) (message #7695129) Thanks to teammate ponomigor
Are you familiar with such problems when the car cannot move or twitches are observed when the first gear is engaged? It is clear that there are many reasons for this, it is possible that in order to eliminate this, it will be necessary to replace the gasoline pump or the coarse filter mesh. Therefore, you should understand in more detail and pay attention to the pump itself.
Gasoline pump for old car models Russian production easier to replace than to repair, and. Of course, today on the market you can find spare parts kits for this unit, which is so important for the car, but this is just a waste of money, according to most experts in the automotive industry.
The only parts that still need to be changed are the valves and cuffs. This is due to the fact that over time, the rubber loses its elasticity, dries out and there is a possibility that it will.
Reasons for replacing the fuel pump
A unit such as a gasoline pump can at the most inopportune time. Unfortunately, in most cases, the quality of the fuel is to blame.
Some drivers use it without thinking about the sad consequences for their "iron horse". This is due to the fact that when using poor quality fuel, air enters the intake, so the pump works on high revs and is not cooled by fuel.
If you are a driver in this category, then do not be surprised that the fuel pump is constantly in need of replacement. Other causes of pump malfunctions include wear on the rollers, malfunction of the impeller, and others.
Why do you need car troubleshooting?
Many of the motorists know that it is located along with a filter and a gauge that controls the fuel level. The fuel pump is installed in the tank of the car, you only need to remove or lower the back seat, then find the hatch, twist all its fasteners and you will see the pump housing with the necessary parts to help it function.
The replacement of the fuel pump takes place only after a diagnostic study. It should not be produced according to mileage and in connection with your “feelings”, diagnostics are needed, since at first glance it is difficult to determine whether the pump is to blame for a car malfunction, or the reason is something else.
So, you carried out the diagnostics and she nevertheless pointed to the fuel pump, then it is necessary to replace the fuel pump filter and the unit itself. If a malfunction is detected only in the mesh, then it is not recommended to change the pump.
Signs of a bad fuel pump
Of course, diagnostics is certainly important, but at the beginning of troubleshooting, you should pay attention to some manifestations that are observed due to a malfunctioning fuel pump:
- the car engine cannot start or malfunctions;
- extraneous sounds occur;
- during movement, the operation of the engine is disturbed;
- decreases.
New fuel pump
If you are in doubt about which fuel pump will suit your vehicle, then it is better to purchase the same one that you have, or choose it from another manufacturer, but in this case you should pay attention to the mounts. The point is that they may not converge as a result of the replacement.
In addition, the discharge pipe of this unit is found in a straight or curved form. The new fuel pump must have the same pipe as the old one. Otherwise, the rubber hose will not be able to fit on it due to the fact that other parts of the machine will interfere with it.
Tools needed to replace the fuel pump in the car
The tools can be divided into several categories: for the replacement process itself, as aids, additional materials.
For the replacement process, you need to have with you:
- keys of different sizes;
- flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
- pliers;
- retractable tongs.
Auxiliary tools:
- technical aerosol for universal use (Vedeshka, or WD-40) or other similar liquid;
- pump for pumping wheels;
- rag.
Additional (spare) materials:
- mesh and pump;
- fuel supply hose. It will come in handy in the case when the replacement of the fuel pump has not been made for a long time;
- rubber sealing ring.
How to replace a fuel pump in a car
The first step is to wear gloves. Please note that the fuel pump vehicle consists of a complex assembly with a fuel consumption indicator and is located in the tank of the car, at the top.
- Remove the hatch cover located in the trunk compartment of the car.
It is recommended that you carry out the steps to replace the fuel pump in a well-ventilated area. The vehicle must be kept away from heating devices and fire sources.
- Residual pressure must be removed from the supply system.
In order to do this, you should remove the negative cable from the battery, but the car must be on a flat area.
- Lower or remove the rear seatback and remove the floor cover.
- On the top of the package, find the wire connection area and disconnect them.
- Loosen the plastic ring in the fuel tank opening using a pliers.
So, the actions taken above have been completed, now the last thing left for you is to pull out the fuel pump and replace it with a new unit.
- After the remaining gasoline drains, you can remove the pump from and then remove the gasket.
It is necessary to get the assembly in such a way so as not to injure the float located on the sensor. If damage to the float cannot be avoided or there are signs of fuel getting into it, then it should be replaced with a new one. When this is not done, the sensor readings are displayed incorrectly.
- Now you need to disconnect the bottom glass, it snaps off.
Usually it accumulates a large layer of dirt. It can be removed with a rag. If it is not possible to pull out the glass through the pump holes, as it falls into the gas tank, then it can be removed by manually dismantling the seal.
- The next step is to remove the filter (mesh).
- Using pliers, remove the locking pin from the guide.
- Disconnect the hose from the fuel pump.
In this case, it should be remembered that the rubber may lose elasticity if it has been replaced for a long time, so it is recommended to change the hose. To do this, cut it off the fitting in the upper area.
- Unscrew the fuel gauge and remove it from the fuel pump housing, then remove the terminal.
The whole process of assembling a new fuel pump consists in the reverse order of manipulation.
After replacing the fuel pump, you should connect and start it for a short period of time, then check whether fuel is flowing from all connections, if everything is fine, then you can close the cover and put the back seat in place.
Attention! Gasoline in a gas tank is explosive. Therefore, auto mechanics are strongly advised to be very careful when replacing the fuel pump. By following this rule, you will protect yourself from trouble. Good luck!
Everyone thinks that main detail any car is an engine. One can argue with this, since the engine is rather the driving force of the car, and the heart, without any doubt, will be the fuel pump. As soon as it fails, breaks down, and the whole car will look like a pile of iron. After all, it must be admitted that you can come to the nearest car service even with an idle cylinder, or if the radiator is broken in the car.
If the driver has any idea how to fix it. But if the fuel pump does not work - write wasted. Here only a tow truck or towing by another car will help out. True, popular rumor says that there are specialists who managed to connect a windshield washer tank to the fuel system, poured fuel into it and so slowly drove to the nearest workshop. But this is rather from the realm of fantasy and repeating such manipulations is extremely dangerous both for the life of the driver and for the car itself. So, let's talk about the cases in which the replacement of the fuel pump is required.
What is a fuel pump for?
This unit is designed to ensure an uninterrupted supply of fuel to the engine during its operation. Most cars have it on the inside. fuel tank. Because of this design feature accessing it can be a little tricky. As you can see in the video, all fuel assembly, in addition to the pump itself, it includes: a fuel sensor with a float and a gas pump mesh (in another way it is also called a coarse fuel filter). Two fuel lines are connected directly to the fuel pump itself:
- Fuel supply line. A ramp with injectors is powered from it (through a fine fuel filter);
- Return fuel line. Through it, with the help of a pressure regulator, fuel returns to the tank. In this way, a constant circulation is created in the fuel system of the engine.
The main characteristic of the fuel pump lies in the pressure that it creates. The pressure generated will depend on the displacement of the engine. The larger the engine size, the greater the performance of the fuel pump should be.
Basic steps to replace the fuel pump
The main thing to consider when you start this work is to remove the negative wire from the battery terminal. This rule must be observed in any work with fuel system cars. It would also not be superfluous to work if the tank on the car is completely empty. Moreover, when you remove the fuel pump, you can clean the bottom of the gas tank from the dirt accumulated there.
Next, what needs to be done is to relieve pressure in the fuel lines so that replacing the fuel pump becomes safe for you. Otherwise, you can get a stream of gasoline in your face or in the car. You ask how to do it? I can assure you that such a procedure is not very complicated.
There are two ways to relieve pressure in the fuel system.
- The first option is the easiest, but it takes time. It is enough for your car to stand in a muffled state for several hours and the pressure in the system will drop by itself. In this case, when you start to disconnect the fuel lines, you do not need to be afraid that a jet of gasoline will splash on you from the fuel hose.
- The second option is also not difficult. You need to find a block in the cabin of your car, with the help of which the car is diagnosed. There should be three fuses, and it is one of them that is responsible for the operation of the fuel pump. This fuse must be removed, and then start the car. Let it run for a while until the engine stalls. Then install the fuse in place and proceed to remove the fuel pump.
As you can see from the video, almost everyone Peugeot brands fuel pump installed under back seat. From above, for protection, it is closed with a special cover. Just before dismantling, do not forget to remove the negative terminal from the battery!
As shown in the video, you must first disconnect the supply and return fuel lines from the fuel pump. Squeeze out the clamps and take them to the sides. Then carefully pull out the electrical connector. Then you need to remove (unscrew) the clamping ring. You need to turn it counterclockwise and slightly pressing on it. After removing the ring, remove the sealing gasket. Having done all these operations, you can remove the fuel pump itself. Rotate it and pull it up. A special puller will help you with this procedure. You can buy it at the store or make it yourself.
Installing the fuel pump is done in the reverse order. Do not forget that a new gasket must be installed in place of the old rubber gasket. After installing a new gasket, tighten the clamping ring with a puller until the marks are aligned. Then install the fuel lines and clamp.
How to replace the mesh in the fuel pump
This procedure is very typical for almost all car models and may differ only in minor details. Differences can only relate to the design features of the car, but according to the general principle, replacing the fuel pump grid is almost the same everywhere. After all, the main goal is one thing - you need to ensure that the course of your car is smooth and without jerks. How to replace the mesh in the fuel pump you can see in this article.
At first, it should be noted that when you visually inspect the gas pump mesh, you may not immediately see obvious signs of contamination. But in any case, this part will need to be changed, even if at first glance it seems clean and without defects. Moreover, at a cost this part is so low that the purchase of a mesh for a gas pump will not bring serious damage to your wallet. And even if the reason why your car suddenly lost a smooth ride is in no way related to this part, then after a while it will still have to be changed. So why not do it right away? So do not neglect this process, especially since replacing the fuel pump grid will not take you much time, because you have already removed the pump itself, which means half the battle is done. And you can do it on your own. As the video shows, for this it is enough to act clearly and accurately.
What problems can you expect when replacing a fuel pump?
The main problem that a motorist who decides to replace the gas pump on his own can expect is that the result, contrary to what was expected, can be negative. The fuel supply is still broken or not at all. To prevent this from happening, before starting the work described above, make sure that the problem was in the fuel pump, and not in something else. It must be remembered that if you have low pressure in your car and the fuel is supplied intermittently, then the fine filter may simply become clogged, or the fuel lines are bent, or the nozzles located on the fuel rail are clogged. Even if you didn't replace on time air filter or you got coked throttle valve, then any of these faults will be similar to a fuel pump fault. But as the video shows common problem, which occurs in this case - insufficient contacts in the electrical block, which is installed on the gas pump, or the fuse has simply burned out.
Replacing the fuel pump mesh video
Good luck on the roads!
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The VAZ 2106 automobile fuel pump is one of the main components of the fuel supply system, which pumps fuel from the tank to the carburetor. Directly in the carburetor assembly, an aerosol mixture is formed from fuel and air, which enters the power plant.
Repair
To repair a gas pump on a VAZ 2106 car, you will need: a Phillips screwdriver, a scraper (or a small needle file), a core, a small hammer.
1. Unscrew the head fixing screws and remove the head with valves, cover and filter. If necessary, remove the cover and filter from the head (see "Checking the operation of the fuel pump on a VAZ 2106 car").
2. Press the diaphragm assembly, rotate it 90° to either side and.
3. Remove the diaphragms fixed on the pusher and the spring from the fuel pump housing.
NOTE
Further disassembly of the fuel pump housing is impractical, since the cost of acquiring and replacing damaged parts of the lever mechanism is comparable to buying a new fuel pump. If there are cracks on the body, the fuel pump mounting flange is deformed, the parts of the lever mechanism are worn or damaged, replace the fuel pump. Damage to the lever mechanism is a fairly rare malfunction. Most often, the failure of the fuel pump is caused by the failure of diaphragms or valves.
4. Inspect the removed diaphragm assembly. If there are tears, delaminations, or even small cracks on the diaphragms, replace them.
USEFUL ADVICE
It is more convenient to replace the diaphragm assembly assembly. On sale there are diaphragm units unified for gasoline pumps manufactured by DAAZ and the Saratov Fuel Equipment Plant. They are supplied as spare parts without the plastic outer spacer. If it is not possible to replace the diaphragm assembly, disassemble it and replace the individual diaphragms. They are fixed on the stem with a nut (a - stem shank). The outer spacer located between them is not fixed in any way and can be easily removed.
5. Holding the stem by the shank, unscrew the nut and remove the parts of the diaphragm assembly from the stem, remembering their relative position.
6. Reassemble the diaphragm assembly in reverse order. At the same time, make sure that the holes in the diaphragms for the passage of screws coincide, and the rectangular tabs on the two diaphragms are directed in the same direction.
7. To replace the valve, press its seat out of the fuel pump head, after removing it with a sharpened scraper or punching file in three places (shown by arrows). After pressing in the new valve, screw its seat in the other three places evenly spaced at 120° intervals.
8. Check the fit of the suction and discharge pipes in the fuel pump head. If they are loose in the head, replace it, as their falling out while the engine is running can cause a fire.
9. Check if the head flange is deformed at the location of the holes for the mounting screws. Deformations occur when the screws are tightened excessively. In this case, a gap appears between the diaphragms, the housing and the head of the fuel pump, which cannot be eliminated by tightening the screws, through which gasoline will leak. Align the flange with light hammer blows through a soft drift and lap it on sandpaper. If the deformation cannot be completely eliminated, replace the head.
10. Assemble the fuel pump in the reverse order of disassembly. When doing so, orient the outer spacer so that control hole in it (shown by the arrow) was located near the manual fuel pump lever to facilitate leak detection.
NOTE
Tighten the head fixing screws evenly and crosswise, without applying excessive force, so as not to deform the flange. Preliminarily screw in all the screws with several threads of thread, press the manual fuel priming lever down to the stop and only then finally tighten the screws. This must be done so that the diaphragm takes on the optimal shape and does not stretch during the operation of the gasoline pump, which will lead to a decrease in its durability.
Replacement
1. First of all, you need to take a Phillips screwdriver and loosen the clamps of the inlet / outlet fuel hose.
2. Now you need to remove the hoses from the fuel pump fittings. I recommend preparing the M8 bolts in advance to close the hoses from gasoline leakage.
3. Then you need to unscrew the two nuts securing the fuel pump with a 13 wrench.
4. Remove the pump from the studs.
5. It is necessary to remove the outer shim from the studs.
6. Then remove the heat-insulating spacer with the pusher.
7. And finally, we take out the second gasket, which must be marked so that when reinstalling the fuel pump, do not confuse it with the first.
8. Install the new pump in the reverse order of removal. At the same time, we install the gaskets each in its place. For reliable operation of the fuel pump, we periodically check and, if necessary, select the thickness of the outer adjusting shim. To do this, rotate crankshaft engine so that the pushrod protrudes to a minimum.
9. After installing the heat-insulating spacer with both gaskets, the pusher of the fuel pump drive should protrude by 0.8–1.3 mm.
10. A gasket 0.27–0.33 mm thick must be installed between the cylinder block and the heat-insulating spacer. The outer gasket (between the spacer and the pump) is selected for the required protrusion of the pusher. This gasket can be made independently by cutting it from a paronite sheet of suitable thickness.
Why is it not downloading
Reasons for not filing
After making sure that the fuel is available, the filters are clean and the fuel line is passable, you can start diagnosing the pump. The reasons for its failure can be caused by:
natural wear and tear from long-term operation;
violation of the integrity of the diaphragm;
stretching the spring and losing its elasticity properties;
we accumulate dirt on the valves;
loss of throughput filter due to clogging;
violations of the tightness circuit, etc.
The owner of the VAZ 2106 has a choice - which way to go in order to restore the pump to working capacity.
The first option is the simplest and most reliable, but expensive in terms of cost. Any decent service station has equipment that, in the shortest possible time, will not only measure the amount of injection at the inlet and vacuum at the outlet of the gasoline pump, but also determine the part that causes defects in the operation of the equipment.
The second option is not the easiest, not so fast, but practically free, except for the time spent on it - to do all the diagnostic and repair work alone in the garage.
Self-diagnosis and repair
The easiest way to check the working condition of the pump, which has been proven by more than one generation of drivers, is to disconnect the hose from the outlet and manually pump it. It should only be taken into account that the pumping lever moves, the diaphragm must be at its highest point, and the pusher at the bottom of the eccentric.
If they stop in the reverse position, one turn of the manual winding knob will be enough to return the diaphragm and pusher to the desired position.
During manual pumping, fuel must be supplied from the pump in a jet in time with the movement of the hand lever. The main thing when carrying out this procedure is to lay a rag on the engine so that gasoline does not splatter over the engine compartment.
To correct internal defects, it is necessary to dismantle the pump. The procedure is not difficult. It is enough to disconnect the supply hoses of the fuel line and unscrew the two fixing nuts with a “13” wrench.
When removing the pump, care must be taken not to damage the gaskets. There are three under the fuel pump. First, there is a gasket with a thickness of about 0.3 mm, then there is a gasket that provides thermal insulation of the pump from heating the cylinder block, after which a thin gasket-seal is laid again, but only 0.75 mm thick.
By selecting the thickness of the gaskets, the height of the pusher outlet is set, which should be in the range from 0.8 mm to 1.3 mm. But a gasket with a thickness of not more than 0.33 mm should always be located between the base of the fuel pump and the thermal insulation gasket.
Novice drivers need to remember that when the gas pump on the VAZ 2106 does not pump and it is disassembled for repair, reassembly does not guarantee its performance. For the correct assembly installation of this part, certain experience and skills are required, especially in terms of removing gaps between mating parts.
Installation
Now that the fuel pump has been removed, perform necessary repairs or its replacement. After that, you can proceed with the installation. Installation is carried out in the reverse order. But besides this, you will also have to adjust the protrusion of the pusher rod. Prepare new gaskets that will regulate the protrusion of the rod, a caliper to measure the value and do the following sequence of actions:
The size of the pusher must be measured with the installed sealing gasket and heat-insulating spacer.
Now that the value is adjusted, we install the fuel pump in its place and connect the fuel hoses to it.
Symptoms
The most common malfunctions of the fuel pump and not only are, of course, the formation of a leak between the constituent parts of its body, which occurs as a result of wear of the sealing gasket located between them. Due to its damage in the gas pump, the tightness of the connection is broken, it begins to pump air, and the fuel supply to the carburetor stops.
Another cause of a fuel pump malfunction can be called a rupture (or other mechanical damage) of the inner membrane, due to which the fuel pump also stops performing its intended functions.
If it becomes necessary to repair the fuel pump, the most effective method is his complete replacement new.
Another method is to purchase and install a special repair kit for a gasoline pump, they are sold in automotive stores. Unfortunately, the quality of these repair kits often leaves much to be desired.
If needed self repair listed faults, to eliminate the ingress of air into the fuel pump at the location of its seal, you can apply a thick layer of glue (for example, Moment) in several layers, and let it dry completely.
And if the membrane is torn, cut out three circles of suitable diameter from the cellophane, and putting them on top of the damaged membrane, press them with the fixing screw. After that, assemble the fuel pump and check it in action.
Adjustment
Assembly
Installation is in the reverse order. Pay attention to the following points:
a) Try not to bend the sensor float arm when installing;
b) When properly installed, the float arm should be perpendicular to the center line of the vehicle;
c) Lubricate the mounting rubber gasket with clean fuel before installation;
d) Arrow marks on top cover the assembly and the edge of the opening of the hatch in the tank must be aligned;
e) Follow the correct order of connection to the assembly of the fuel supply and return hoses (in accordance with the marking applied during dismantling).
If you expected that in this article we will give you spells that allow you to get man-made fuel from household gas or potato tops - you are mistaken, sorry ... Now we will talk about pumping gasoline or diesel fuel into garage conditions, but we will talk exclusively about fuel previously purchased at a gas station! After all, there are situations when fuel needs to be stored, poured into different containers or pumped from them into the tank of a car or other equipment. How and with what it is possible and convenient to do it?
Transferring fuel is not the most urgent task for the average car owner, but sometimes you still have to face it ... Particularly confused owners diesel cars they don’t refuel them directly at a gas station, but carry fuel in cans to the garage, where they are pumped into 200-liter barrels for sedimentation from water and dirt and repeated filtration (yes, this is not a joke, there are enthusiasts!) Someone purposefully buys " left" gasoline from the hands and warehouses it for storage. Someone keeps fuel in "mini-tanks" (usually in the form of the same 200-liter barrels) really forcedly - for example, at a hunting lodge or base. One way or another, the issue of fuel transfer may well be relevant, and a funnel is not always enough for this. Let's explore the most popular devices for this exciting activity.
SEMI-PROFESSIONAL MINI PETROL STATIONS
For a personal garage, such equipment is clearly redundant and expensive, but if you need to organize a fuel point on a reservoir for boats and boats or a “micro-refueling” at a forest camp site, then this option will be the best. The semi-professional fuel dispensing pump is designed for a typical 200-liter barrel and has a capacity similar to that of a regular gas station that we use daily - tens of liters per minute. Which is not surprising with a 300-400 watt motor.
There are options that work from an AC outlet, and there are options that run on a 12/24 volt battery; the latter can be powered directly from the on-board network of refueling equipment. The cost, however, is high - from 4,000 rubles for Chinese unnamed options and from 15-20 thousand for branded ones. However, manual gear drum pumps of the “meat grinder” type cost from one and a half thousand rubles and can be a godsend for someone who is waiting for the apocalypse, sitting in a cache on several hidden barrels of fuel!
ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP WITH BATTERIES
Miniature self-contained pumps for gasoline and diesel fuel are made by the Japanese and cloning professionals - by the Chinese. main feature- Powered by batteries - "fingers"! On two AA batteries, the pump is capable of pumping up to a ton of fuel at a speed of 10-12 liters per minute. Some models have an auto-shutoff function, like "adult" gas stations - that is, you can insert the pump hose into the container and not worry that gasoline will overflow as soon as you turn away for a second!
Chinese clones are scolded by many, Japanese clones are fully consistent with the stated. Of the minuses - limited power, which does not allow to lengthen, if necessary, a short regular hose. Therefore, if you need to refuel from a large barrel, you will have to drive close to it or drag it to the gas tank flap. Well, the second is the love of the pump for expensive and powerful alkaline batteries (although there are also versions with a network adapter). The cost is from 1,800 rubles for a Japanese original and from 500 for a Chinese counterpart.
ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP OF INJECTION VEHICLE
Although in the tank of most cars there is a bulky fuel module with a plastic cup, filters and a gasoline level sensor, a very compact “cartridge” is usually hidden inside it - an electric gasoline pump. And it can be successfully used for pumping fuel outside the car. This decision makes sense if you had to replace the old pump with a new one, but not because of its complete failure, but because of a decrease in pressure, which, by the way, happens much more often.
The reduced performance of a “tired” gasoline pump is not a hindrance in our case - if the pump is used abnormally in the mode of pumping gasoline from tank to tank without the need to create a nominal pressure in the fuel rail, even a worn pump will give quite sufficient performance. To make a “rocking chair” out of the pump, you need to put a piece of petrol-resistant hose (preferably transparent, made of PVC) on its fitting and extend the block wires, then connecting them either to the car’s battery or to the charger.
Regarding the longevity of the pump: the regular performance of most electric pumps ranges from 70-80 to 150-200 liters per hour, and they work for years. When using an old pump for pumping fuel from time to time, its life is extended almost to infinity, and even with short-term “dry” operation, when the tank is empty, and with a piece of rag as a coarse filter at the inlet.
Regarding performance: the pump of a one and a half liter injection machine pumps about 70-80 liters per hour, an engine with a volume of two liters and above - 130-150 liters per hour. It turns out that he will pump a 20-liter canister into a tank in a quarter of an hour? But 15 minutes for a canister is a very long time ... In fact, it's not like that! The passport performance of the pump is normalized in normal mode, when it has to pressurize the fuel rail. In the case of pumping from container to container, gasoline murmurs freely and unhindered. Our simple experiment showed a capacity of five liters per minute. Therefore, it takes only four minutes to pump 20 liters of fuel.
The main plus in using an old, but working gas pump, which you still have after replacing it with a new one, is that the system will actually cost free. The main disadvantage is the diameter of the “cartridge” of the pump. I met the thinnest - 38 mm, and it will not fit into every metal canister, although it usually passes into barrels and polyethylene canisters without problems. In this case, it makes sense to look for a remote (main) gasoline pump, located not in the tank, but under the bottom of the car. These were used on injector UAZs, Volgas, Gazelles, many "Americans", old "Europeans" (models of the 80-90s from Opel, Peugeot, etc.) This pump has hose fittings both at the inlet and outlet, and the hose will fit into any container. The cost of a used pump from the Volga is about 500 rubles.
MANUAL FUEL PUMP
As a super-economical option, there are also hand pumps. "Pear" is a classic of the genre, familiar to our great-grandfathers-motorists. Her modern version(pictured right) is not much different technically from the traditional one. If used to overflow from a container located above to a container located below, then a couple of "pumps" will fill the highway, and then gravity will do everything, and you will not have to spit on gasoline. If you need to upload “up” or just between containers that are on the same level, then you will have to work pretty hard with your hand ...
It is unlikely that anyone has measured the performance of this type of pump, but we will check it anyway! Surprisingly, the “pear” was not far behind the electric pump: it pumped five liters in 1 minute, and a manual one in 1.5 minutes! However, the devil lies in the volume: after five liters, the desire to punch a pear disappears, and the electric buzzes and pours, as if nothing had happened ...
So the "pear" should not be written off, it is quite suitable for refueling mopeds, lawn mowers and other small equipment. And it costs about 100 rubles. The classic version of the "pear", by the way, car owners of middle-aged diesel cars put in the gap of the fuel path in front of the pump - for manual pumping of the system after airing. And sometimes such pear pumps are also installed on new cars (for example, on diesel Renault Duster), and the manufacturer puts it on a regular basis and offers to pump diesel fuel into the system after replacing the fuel filter.