In modern realities, one of the pretty necessary things for a motorcyclist is trunk. In particular, this can be noted among lovers of long trips and travel. It should be noted that beginner motorcyclists often have the question of how to make a trunk for a motorcycle with their own hands.
The trunks themselves can be divided into 2 types, these are structures for attaching wardrobe trunks, and separate ones for directly securing cargo. In modern times, the first option is somewhat more practical and popular.
But let's look at both options.
If you pay attention, in the market of components elementary elements are quite expensive. An ordinary trunk, which you can do yourself, and quite quickly, will cost more than 10 thousand rubles on the market. Think about whether you need to buy a motorcycle rack, or better to do it yourself.
Trunk for attaching wardrobe trunks
This design is used when it is necessary to transport small loads. It is quite possible to make it from several metal tubes or twigs. If you want a more design solution, you can make it from a sheet of metal, which will complement the style of the bike quite well. At the same time, if the manufacture is carried out from twigs or pipes, then it will be necessary to create additional parts, since it is necessary to create a completely flat plane on which the wardrobe trunks will be hung.
In order not to provide for those very additional components, it is best to make the part completely from a solid sheet. Or you can make the upper part solid, and fastening using twigs or tubes.
DVR is useful not only in cars. How to choose it we tell in this article. If you also have a car in which there is also not enough space for cargo, then we recommend that you see how to do it. forwarding trunk - .
This design is intended strictly for attaching the wardrobe trunk in the upper part. At the same time, it is not advisable to use metal with a thickness of less than 3-4 millimeters for manufacturing, this will ensure sufficient rigidity of the trunk itself, as well as improve appearance all in all. For a more design solution, you can engrave or cut out “windows” on the sides. You can do it yourself with a drill, or a grinder.
If you want something more original, you can contact specialized workshops that have equipment for laser cutting and engraving. So let's take a look at the manufacturing process:
First you need to cut out the layout of the cardboard. We fit the sheet to the wardrobe trunk and mark the boundaries of the trunk lid along the contour of its bottom. In some cases, the wardrobe trunk already has its own platform for fastening; in this situation, it is necessary to carry out the top of the trunk strictly under the platform of the bag itself.
Also, when measuring, we provide protrusions in width, since it will be necessary to fix the entire structure, for this the edges will need to be bent.
Further, after measuring, making a layout of the site, and its immediate preparation, it is necessary to prepare fasteners. It is desirable to provide elements for fastening to the frame. At the same time, there are no clear instructions for them; here it is necessary to be guided strictly by the shape of the motorcycle frame itself. But it should be noted that the best variation would be the mounting tubes provided at the edges of the platform that go to the frame.
After that, it remains to carry out the coloring, and then fix the case itself directly. If in the future, in addition to the top, side trunks are also planned, then additional fasteners should be provided. They can also be made from tubes or rods, fastening to the top of the entire structure.
In some cases, the factory assembly of the pannier has tie straps in it, and ultimately the side frames are needed strictly for support, in order to avoid friction on the wheel.
Cargo carrier
The next type is a separate trunk for the transport of goods. This design appeared in Soviet times. At that time, it was made mostly of steel rods. Consider its features and variations in the manufacture of such a trunk with your own hands.
Of course, let's move a little away from the old days, and using the manufacturing example, consider the trunk for more modern motorcycles, since they currently prevail in the world of motorcycle technology. Such an example would be the manufacture of structures only from metal tubes.
First of all, you need a pipe bender. In its absence, steel rods must be used to obtain the desired beautiful bend. A full bending procedure is carried out using a burner. The metal element heats up, and slowly, gently bends.
Just think that buying a trunk for a motorcycle of this type will cost about 150-200 dollars. But let's go directly to the process itself:
Initially, we prepare the site. To do this, you need to cut out of the rods, then twist the pieces into the desired shape.
Further, in the same way, the side parts of the trunk are prepared and welded to the general structure. For fastening, metal jumpers are used. At the same time, their size depends only on the model of the motorcycle, or rather on the features of the frame.
On the frame itself, in the places of the intended fastening, the paint is cleaned. In the future, measurements are taken and the trunk is grabbed by welding by jumpers directly to the frame. IN Depending on the lugs welded to the frame, it is measured and the location of the “reciprocal” lugs is noted.
Basically, all manufacturing is carried out individually, depending on the characteristics of the motorcycle itself, so it is necessary to consider in more detail on the example of any of the models.
Also, it should be noted that when planning the transportation of especially heavy loads, it is necessary to provide additional support frames, bringing them to the frame, preferably closer to the central part, in which case the weight of the engine will compensate for the weight of the load. It can be made from metal rods. We drill holes at the ends, then we fix it with bolts on the base of the frame, and for reliability, you can additionally grab it by welding.
After installation, last steps will be cleaning, degreasing and actually painting or varnishing, depending on personal preferences.
Thus, two variations of creating a trunk for a motorcycle with your own hands were dismantled, which in turn will help novice motorcycle lovers as much as possible. And perhaps it will become a good cheat sheet for experienced drivers who, before that, could only buy a trunk for a motorcycle, but did not know how to make it themselves.
A motorcycle rack is undoubtedly necessary and useful thing, especially for long-distance travel enthusiasts, and the need to make it yourself often arises among novice motorcyclists, since most factory products may not fit some kind of bike and after purchase it will still have to be redone. This article will describe a couple of options for making a motorcycle trunk, depending on the cargo being transported, or on the availability of panniers.
In general, a modern motorcycle trunk is significantly different from the trunks of Soviet times, since now you can easily purchase plastic or leather trunks (details on the manufacture of wardrobe trunks). And the design of a modern trunk is designed specifically for fixing not a load on the trunk, but wardrobe trunks (plastic or leather).
And the cargo itself is already packed into trunks fixed on the trunk. It is much more convenient and compact, and transported things are always dry and clean. Well, the safety of things in wardrobe trunks is ensured if, for example, you need to move away from the motorcycle somewhere along the way.
In addition, thanks to wardrobe trunks, the trunk itself, designed to secure them, is made much more compact and neat, unlike the trunks of previous years, designed to secure and transport some kind of bags or just cargo.
Nevertheless, both options will be considered below, that is, first a motorcycle trunk will be considered, designed to secure wardrobe trunks, and the second option is a regular trunk (of the Soviet type) for securing some kind of cargo or ordinary bags on it.
Indeed, some novice motorcyclists do not yet have wardrobe trunks, and it is often necessary to go somewhere far away, especially with the onset of holidays, and in this case, an ordinary trunk will help out, which you can do with your own hands in just a few hours.
In addition, an ordinary trunk (not intended for wardrobe trunks) has a big plus - you can fix and transport some kind of overall cargo on it (for example, boards to the country house), which will not fit into wardrobe trunks. But first, the manufacture of a more compact trunk designed specifically for wardrobe trunks will be described.
The simplest trunk for a small rear case, or for medium-sized and light things, such as the one in the photo on the left, is not designed for a heavy load, since it is attached to the wing, and not to the frame. But such a trunk costs more than 12 thousand rubles.
And the trunk in the photo below costs more than 14 thousand. So is it worth paying that kind of money when it’s not difficult to make it yourself, having several pipes, an angle grinder (grinder) and a welding machine available.
Moreover, if desired, you can improve the mount and fix the trunk to the frame in order to transport something heavy.
However, for not heavy things, you can fix the trunk and wardrobe trunk on the fender (if the fender is made of steel).
A motorcycle rack designed to secure panniers.
Such a trunk can be made from a metal bar or tubes (diameter 10 - 14 mm), but the most accurate trunk (more precisely, the trunk platform for fixing the wardrobe trunk) will still be made from a steel sheet, or from a sheet of duralumin. In addition, even if you make a trunk from tubes or a bar, you still have to make an upper platform for securing the case using a steel or aluminum sheet. After all, the lower part of modern wardrobe trunks is designed just for landing on a flat plane.
Therefore, in order not to make additional details (a platform and lugs for attaching it to a bar), I advise you to make the upper trunk from a steel sheet (stainless steel is even better), and the lower mountings of the trunk to the frame themselves can be made from a bar or pipe.
The design of the neat and compact trunk, designed to secure the top box and made of steel sheet, is clear in the photo. It is advisable to use a steel sheet or stainless steel with a thickness of at least 3 mm so that the rigidity is not small, but in order to lighten the weight of the trunk (more precisely, the platform) and improve the appearance, I advise you to contact a familiar milling cutter to cut windows (see photo). Although simple straight windows, as in the photo, it is quite possible to cut them out using an ordinary grinder, drills and a set of cutters.
By the way, now you can already find many companies that have CNC machines for laser cutting of sheet metal (well, or for cutting with a milling cutter, it doesn’t matter) and the services of such companies are not at all expensive. Turning to them, you can make a trunk no worse, and even better than factory branded products. And the product made by you will be exactly the right size for your bike and wardrobe trunk.
The sheet of the top platform itself is first cut out of cardboard (template), attaching the cardboard to the inverted trunk (to the bottom of the trunk) in order to outline the attachment points and draw the dimensions of the template for the upper trunk platform from them. By the way, many factory-made plastic trunks already have their own factory site, which also has a system for quickly removing the trunk and a lock fixing the trunk. So we are making a trunk platform (first from cardboard) just under the factory platform from the wardrobe trunk.
When cutting out a cardboard template (and further when cutting out a steel sheet), you should keep in mind this: in order for the trunk to have rigidity, after cutting out the lightening windows, and also in order to be able to fix the fasteners just below the platform, you will need to bend the steel sheet along edges by 90º or a little more (see photo and it is better to use for this), which means that the material (steel sheet) will need more width.
The bend of the trunk area is needed for rigidity, and also in order to fix the platform to the motorcycle frame, or to the wing, if the wing is made of metal, not plastic and the cargo being transported is not heavy (for example, some warm clothes, or a tourist rug) . Further, after the platform is made, it is necessary to make elements for attaching it to the frame or wing (better, of course, to the frame).
The design and configuration of the mounting elements of the trunk depends on the design of the motorcycle frame, and here it is difficult to give exact recommendations, since everything is measured and done in place. Most often, motorcycle trunk fasteners are made of metal tubes or steel bars (but for individual fasteners, steel sheet can also be used).
Trunk with a subwoofer, mounted on the rear trunk of my Dnieper.
And here's what you should take into account: if you plan to transport something heavy on the trunk or in a case (for example, as I have a podium for a subwoofer and an amplifier in my case, which weigh 10 kg together - see the photo where they are fixed on the trunk), this means that your trunk must have down pipes (which are attached to the frame below), which, after welding them to the trunk area, have the shape of a triangle, when viewed from the side and are reinforcing scarves.
That is, the design of fastening the trunk area to the frame should be such that, if possible, tubes going down and fixed to the frame are fixed from the edge of the trunk area. This design is quite rigid (after all, the triangle is the most rigid figure) and is able to withstand heavy loads.
The pipes themselves can be fixed to the site with bolts, but then you have to weld ears with holes on the ends of the pipes. But you can weld the tubes to the platform, but you still have to weld the ears at the bottom in order to be able to fix the trunk to the frame and, if necessary, remove it. Reciprocal ears with holes are welded onto the frame, and where to weld them is measured in place by attaching the finished trunk to the frame (when we apply it is useful to use a laser or ordinary level).
After fixing the downtubes to the trunk area and the reciprocal lugs to the frame, it remains to paint everything and fix it with M8 or M10 bolts.
If it is also planned to fix side cases, then support frames are made (bent) from a steel bar (10 - 12 mm) or tubes and they are attached with the upper part to the upper trunk, frame, or to the wing. To fix the support frames to them, steel ears with holes should be made from a steel sheet 3-4 mm thick and welded.
Well, then both frames are applied from the sides to the wing or to the trunk and reciprocal holes are marked and drilled through the holes of the ears to secure the frames to the motorcycle (you can simply weld the side frames to the trunk, as in the photos below, which shows the trunk for Yamaha). On the frames, it is desirable to pre-weld the ears with holes to secure the side cases themselves.
However, some side cases (depending on the design) have special belts, thanks to which both cases are thrown over the rear fender (that is, they hang on the belts), and the frames are needed only to support the cases so that they do not cling to the wheel when the bike turns.
Motorcycle rack with side shelves for carrying cargo.
Since Soviet times, an ordinary trunk for securing and transporting cargo (and not wardrobe trunks) has been made entirely of steel bar or metal tubes (for example, with side shelves for bags, such as in the drawing below). And with such trunks, many owners of Yav, Izhey and other motorcycles traveled across the vast country.
trunk for motorcycle Java
But the trunk for more modern touring motorcycles will be described below, and if you want to make it more beautiful, you can also, as for the trunk described above, make a cargo area from a steel sheet, and make the rest of the structural elements from a steel bar or tube. However, who cares, and below will be described the manufacture of the trunk entirely from steel tubes.
However, for a normal bend of the tubes, at least the simplest one is needed, and not everyone has it. Therefore, to make the bend beautiful, just use a steel bar at the bend points, which can be bent beautifully and without a pipe bender, it is enough to heat it with a torch and bend it, for example, in a bench vise. By the way, almost all trunks of Soviet times (as in the drawing) were made from a bar.
The photo on the left shows a rack that is sold in some online stores and is designed for off-road motorcycles. This rack for a Yamaha motorcycle costs $170 plus shipping. However, this type of trunk is not difficult to make on your own, and not only for a Yamaha motorcycle, but for any bike. Only fasteners are made depending on the configuration of the frame, and the rear fender of your bike.
As can be seen from the photograph, all structural elements are made of steel tube, but as mentioned above, a steel bar can also be used. And although the design of the bar will turn out to be a little heavier, the bar can be bent without problems without a pipe bender.
Forgive me, readers, that all sizes are not indicated, but they are individual and depend on the size of a particular motorcycle (after all, it is unrealistic to describe the dimensions for all bikes). And in order to clearly see in advance what size your trunk will turn out to be, it is first useful to bend the template in place from ordinary aluminum wire, and then we bend a bar or tube using this wire template.
First, we cut and bend from the bar, then we weld the top platform and jumpers for it, then we bend and weld two identical side frames for side bags, and then we connect (weld) the top platform and side frames using four jumpers indicated in the photo above with red arrows.
Moreover, the length of these jumpers depends on the height of the motorcycle saddle and everything is measured and tacked by electric welding in place, and then the structure is removed and finally boiled. It remains again to attach the welded structure to your motorcycle and note where the attachment lugs will be welded, indicated in the photo with red arrows, depending on the design of the rear of the frame, fender and the layout of the rear of the motorcycle.
Here, too, everything is individual and it is impossible to describe something specific, and sometimes there is simply nothing to fix the welded trunk structure on a motorcycle. In this case, just mark on the frame in the right places with a marker and carefully clean the paint, then in these places we weld the fastening ears (made of sheet metal 3-5 mm thick) you should weld the reciprocal ears on the trunk itself.
Trunk for a motorcycle made of steel pipes (indicated by a red arrow additional support).
And one more thing, if you plan to sometimes carry a heavy load (for example, some kind of iron or spare parts), then I recommend adding (welding) additional thrust jumpers, which are indicated in the photo on the left with a red arrow, which will be attached to the footrests for the passenger and which will create two additional anchor points. Also, a reinforcing triangular scarf should be made and welded from sheet steel (highlighted in yellow in the photo).
This is much more reliable, and only two additional pieces of steel bar or tube are required, the ends of which we flatten and drill holes for mounting bolts in them. Well, we grab these jumpers in place to the side frames from below, then remove the trunk and finally scald the entire structure.
It remains to clean everything, degrease, prime and paint. Of course, only two options for motorcycle trunks were described above, from a variety of designs, but I hope they will be useful to novice motorcyclists who love to travel, good luck to everyone.
In recent years, we have become accustomed to seeing it on almost every motorcycle. Now cars without trunks, wind and mud shields, protective arcs seem to be somehow bare. Unfortunately, our industry produces little tourist equipment for motorcycles, and its range is limited, and motorcycle tourists are forced to make it themselves, by virtue of their capabilities and skills.
In this chapter, we will talk about the requirements for motorcycle equipment and show with concrete examples how to make it better.
Luggage carriers
The main tourist equipment of a motorcycle is luggage racks. They can be installed behind the passenger saddle, on the sides of the rear wheel, on the gas tank, in some cases on the front fender of the motorcycle, and in the presence of protective arcs - in the form of canisters on the arcs. The purpose of this placement is to distribute the load more evenly throughout the motorcycle. By the way, we want to warn you - do not expect to have a good trip on a motorcycle with a backpack on your shoulders: it is inconvenient and tiring.
Most of the load is carried by the rear rack, and when designing it, special attention must be paid to strength and rigid connection with the motorcycle frame. But this does not mean that the trunk should be made of thick-walled tubes or steel bars. The strength and carrying capacity of the structure should be combined with its lightness and well-thought-out arrangement of attachment points, without being carried away by the width of the trunk and its large extension beyond the rear axle. To reduce the center of gravity, it is desirable to place the cargo area as low as possible.
The commonly used rack mounting points (two upper at the suspension and two lower on the passenger's footpegs) do not rigidly connect it to the motorcycle frame. Therefore, the cargo area must be additionally connected with spacers to the rear
fender or seat frame, and tie the struts with a shackle, which is fixed under the license plate bolt. Elements of the trunk structure should not interfere with the work rear suspension, as well as prevent wheel dismantling and chain adjustment.
It is best if the rear rack provides the location of the load both behind the passenger's saddle and on the sides of the rear wheel. Structurally, this is solved in different ways. For example, side plates are attached to some trunks that have a rear cargo area for installing hinged easily removable bags on them, other trunks are provided with side cargo platforms for securing small suitcases or backpacks.
When choosing a design, preference should be given to the trunk with easily removable bags. Firstly, hanging bags provide easy access to the rear wheel, do not interfere with chain adjustment and are convenient in parking lots, as they can be quickly removed and taken with you, Secondly, after travel they can be replaced with smaller bags for everyday use. On a motorcycle, such bags will always come in handy. After all, it is much more convenient to just put small things in a bag than to puzzle over how to fix them on the trunk, or, even worse, carry them in your pocket or in your bosom.
As an example of a design that meets the above requirements, we offer a welded trunk developed by the authors for Java motorcycles (Fig. 7). It has been in service for many years and has successfully withstood endurance tests on long journeys on various roads.
Rice. 7. Rear trunk with bags for everyday use.
The manufacturing technology and assembly of the trunk elements is as follows (Fig. 8). From steel seamless tubes with a diameter of 12? 1 or 12? I.5 mm, base blanks 1 (2 pcs.), Crossbars 2 (3 pcs.) And struts 3 (2 pcs.) Are made. The rear inserts 4 (2 pieces) are bent from bars of the same diameter (the elements - base blanks, struts and inserts - can be replaced with solid tubes bent along the radius of the inserts). Base blanks and struts with upper 5 (2 pcs.) and lower 6 (2 pcs.) earrings welded to them are fixed on the motorcycle, and the rear suspension mounting bolts are replaced with special bolts 9 (2 pcs.). Having connected the base and struts with rear inserts, weld the crossbars 2 and struts on the wing 7 (2 pcs.), Having previously protected the rear wing with a sheet of metal or asbestos. Then the trunk is removed, the bottom and side brackets for belts 8 (6 pcs.), Lugs 10 (6 pcs.) for side plates are welded and the junctions of the elements are finally welded. The use of a motorcycle as a slipway eliminates the possible distortion of the trunk during welding and ensures that the seats match.
Rice. 8. Rear trunk: a - complete (side and top view); b - insert (blank); c - upper earring; g - lower earring;
e - bolt of the upper mounting of the rear suspension 
Side plates 1 (2 pcs.), on which easy-to-remove bags will be installed, are cut out of a 2 mm thick steel sheet (Fig. 9). Each plate has one elliptical and four shaped grooves that provide movement of the bag attachment elements. (To lighten the plate, a large cut can be made in the middle.) Naturally, the same slots should be used for mounting touring bags and bags for everyday driving, and the dimensions of the plates should match the smaller bags. Each plate is bolted to the trunk at three points. Additionally, they are connected to the tool and battery boxes with right 2 and left 3 brackets, envelopes with inside rear shock absorbers. In the boxes for fixing the bracket, two holes are drilled for the bolts.
Rice. 9. Side plate of the trunk for installing easily removable bags, right and left (a); right bracket for attaching the plate to the tool box (b); left bracket for attaching the plate to the battery box (c); fungus (g); hairpin (d); fixing bracket (e) 
In this design, as well as in others where bags are used, we recommend using canvas sports packs with side lacing. Their capacity thanks to the lacing is adjustable, which is convenient when traveling. It is useful to additionally stitch the seams of the knapsacks with harsh threads, and remove the shoulder straps and strengthen the bottom and front wall with them. The rear wall also needs to be strengthened - riveted a sheet of duralumin 1-1.5 mm thick.
Instead of sports satchels, you can use hunting game bags or you can make shopping bags. In any case, the seams must be duplicated, and the back wall made rigid. To prevent the bottom of the bag from sagging while moving, attach to it
belt. Subsequently, when things are put into the bag, pull the belt up and fasten it in the buckle located under the passenger's saddle or in the area of the rear handle of the motorcycle.
A useful addition to the bag will be a carrying handle. The elements of easily removable fastening of each bag are four mushrooms 4 and one pin 5, which are screwed with nuts to the back wall. During hanging
bags, these parts enter the grooves of the trunk plate, and then the bag is shifted down. Bracket 6 is provided for fixing the bag in the lower position. When put on a hairpin, it rests with its bent part against the side plate and prevents the bag from moving up. The bracket is fixed with a lamb or nut.
Trunks with side cargo areas look different; they are performed either with a rear cargo area or without it. An example of a trunk without a rear platform is the design developed at the Java plant (Fig. 10, 11). It consists of two assembled frames, upper and lower (left and right) struts, spacers. These parts are connected to each other with bolts.
Rice. 10. Trunk with side cargo areas. 
Rice. 11. Trunk frame (a); lower brace (b); upper brace (c); spacer (g) 
Both trunk frames 1 and their crossbars 2 are made of steel seamless tubes with a diameter of 10 × 1.5 mm; reinforcements 3 and linings 4 are made of steel strip 3 mm thick. The lower left brace consists of brace 5 made of a tube 16 × 2 mm in diameter, lining 6, and support 7 made of steel sheet 3 mm thick. The bottom right brace is a mirror image of the bottom left brace. The upper left strut consists of a strut 8 made of a tube with a diameter of 12 × 1.5 mm and an overlay 9 made of the same material as similar parts. The top right brace is also a mirror image of the left. And finally, for spacer 10, a tube with a diameter of
12×1.5 mm.
On motorcycles, the luggage carrier is fixed at the upper points with bolts with which the seat frame is attracted to the frame, and at the lower points with the bolts of the passenger's footpegs. The roof rack with side cargo areas, which is also equipped with a rear platform, allows you to carry more luggage compared to the previous design (fig. 12 and 13).
Rice. 12. Trunk with side and rear cargo areas.
Rice. 13. Drawing of the trunk with side and rear cargo areas. 
A typical design of such a trunk was made by a motorcyclist E. Kustarev, using seamless steel tubes with a diameter of 14 × 1 mm, and for the lining of the trunk to the motorcycle - sheet steel 2 mm thick. The main parts of the trunk are bolted together. Note that these two trunks create some inconvenience when dismantling the wheel and adjusting the target. Their insufficiently rigid connection with the motorcycle frame can be eliminated by installing spacers connecting the trunk to the fender in the area of the rear handle.
The Moscow club of car and motorcycle tourists has developed a trunk design, which is distinguished by the fact that the upper mounts (on the shock absorber bolts) are articulated, and the lower ones (at the footrests) are forked (Fig. 14). This allows, after loosening the lower bolts, to rotate the rack around the upper attachment points, which opens up free access to the rear wheel and chain.
Rice. 14. Folding trunk. 
As we have already said, it is best to take the upper bolts of the rear shock absorbers and the bolts of the passenger footpegs as the base mounting points for the luggage rack on a motorcycle. For those who are going to make luggage racks for motorcycles of other brands, there is a table with the distances between these points. We also recommend that owners of Voskhod and M-105 motorcycles equip their cars with more fundamental trunks, since branded ones in terms of carrying capacity and capacity do not satisfy the tourist much.
Of course, it is not always possible to manufacture a rear trunk with hanging bags or side cargo areas. Sometimes you have to be content with a simpler design that does not require welding. In such cases, you can limit yourself to installing easily removable bags (Fig. 15, 16). They are hung on the side plates, which, in turn, need to be attached to the seat frame, rear fender and connected with brackets to the tool and battery boxes.
Rice. 15. Easily removable bags on the side plates. 
Rice. 16. Side plate and bag fasteners 
The brackets are positioned at such a height that they do not restrict the maximum travel of the rear fork and chain guard. If the trip will take place without a passenger, another way of placing luggage is also possible. In this case, a motor backpack is put on the back of the cushion saddle (Fig. 17).
It is easy to sew it yourself or order it in a workshop that makes covers for car seats. They sew a motor backpack from leatherette or thick tarpaulin, and put it on the saddle, pull it together at the bottom with straps. The backpack is roomy and easy to take off.
Rice. 17. Motorized backpack. 
So far, we have been talking about structures for placing cargo on the rear of the motorcycle. For the things that should be under
hand, it is useful to have a small trunk on the gas tank (Fig. 18). It can also be useful for transporting photo and movie cameras,
transistor receiver and other fragile things. When designing a trunk on a gas tank, it is necessary to provide for the freedom of motorcycle control, the convenience of the driver's seat and refueling with gasoline.
In the reduced design, the base of the trunk is two tubes with a diameter of 10-12 mm, welded with the upper ends of I; clamp around the neck of the tank. The lower ends of the tubes have ears through which a bolt is passed that secures the tank.
on the frame (the gap between the tubes and the tank is about 2 mm). The collar is made of 2 mm steel. Its outer diameter
8-10 mm more than internal. A sleeve and a nut are welded to the ends of the clamp, into which the tightening screw is screwed (Fig. 19). The joints of the clamp with other parts should not interfere with closing the gas tank cap. A metal basket is welded to the tubes, made in such a way as to ensure the installation of a bag on the trunk.
Rice. 18. The trunk on the gas tank. 
Rice. 19. Fastening the trunk to the gas tank neck. 
Perhaps the best cases for this purpose will be cases for the Quartz-2 movie camera and the Zenit-6 camera. They are quite expensive, but the design and configuration are the most convenient. The cases are made of good quality leather, the walls and bottom are soft
gaskets, and covers are equipped with locks. Unnecessary partitions from cases can be removed or installed in a suitable place. (In the heat of the rework, don't cut off the carry strap: you'll need it at bus stops.)
Some motorcyclists install racks on the front fender of their motorcycle. The use of such a trunk is justified if the motorcycle has a fixed wing. The trunk is made in the form of a frame and is installed so that the load does not obscure the light of the headlight. On motorcycles - singles, especially those where the fender is attached to the moving parts of the fork legs, such a rack cannot be made. Firstly, it will increase the weight of the unsprung mass and make it difficult to manage, and secondly, things will be on a kind of vibration stand.
For all types of trunks, it is best to use stainless steel tubes. Trunks made of such tubes, after careful sawing of the seams and polishing with fine sandpaper, acquire an elegant look for a long time and do not lend themselves to corrosion. But keep in mind that not every welding workshop knows how to cook "stainless steel". If you use ordinary steel tubes, then the trunks can be chromed or painted to match the color of the motorcycle.
Protective arches
On a motorcycle on a long journey, it is good to have protective arcs (Fig. 20). This is not a tribute to fashion, but a useful addition that increases driving safety. The bars are designed to protect the rider from injury in a fall and protect the motorcycle from damage. It is convenient to install canisters for things, a fog lamp, mud shields on them. It is necessary to design the arcs in such a way that when the motorcycle rolls over to the side, the handlebars and the tank do not touch the road.
Rice. 20. Motorcycle with protective arcs and a windshield. 
We propose the design of arches that meet these requirements (Fig. 21) and allow, in addition. install easily removable shields on them to protect the driver's legs from dirt (the description of the shields is given below).
Arcs 1 are bent from seamless steel pipe. Most suitable size- with a diameter of 25 × 2.5 mm. To fulfill the required radius, a pipe bender is good - a common tool for plumbers. In the absence of a pipe bender, the arcs are bent on a suitable blank, after filling the pipes with sand and heating them with a gas torch for welding. To make the right and left arcs symmetrical, apply a plywood template. The upper bracket 2 and the lower pads 3, with which the arcs are fixed on the motorcycle, are made of sheet steel. After fitting to the motorcycle frame, these parts are welded into halves of the arcs. As with trunk welding, the motorcycle can be used as a slipway. During the final installation of the arches on the frame, do not forget to put spacer bushings 4, 5 on the coupling bolts.
The proposed arcs are designed for motorcycles "Java-350". Leaving the general configuration, but changing dimensions and seats, arches can be put on motorcycles of other brands.
It should be said about the coverage of the arcs. In our opinion, it is more correct to paint them white, and not chrome. In the dark, the white color is better visible to others, which is important from a safety point of view. In addition, paint is more practical than chrome coating: in case of an accidental fall of the motorcycle, it is easier to paint over the scratched place than to chrome everything again. In order for the arcs to be visually connected with the motorcycle and not look like a foreign body, it does not interfere with painting them in the same color as the motorcycle in the area of \u200b\u200bconnection with the frame, in a section of 10-15 cm.
Cases for the things we mentioned are sewn from waterproof fabric or made from aluminum. The canisters must be easily removable and can be fixed on the arcs with the help of belts.
Rice. 21. Design of protective arches. 
wind shield
An invaluable service on a long journey is provided to a motorist by a windshield (Fig. 20, 22). It protects against wind, dust and weather, and when properly configured improves the aerodynamics of the motorcycle. True, windshields have their drawbacks: while creating comfort for the driver, they somewhat worsen the passenger's driving conditions due to the turbulences that occur behind the shield. "Vetrovik" is better to be made of two parts (the upper one is made of organic glass, the lower one is made of aluminum). It is much easier to make such a shield than from whole glass, and it beats less often.
Manufacturing technology can be A base is cut out of a sheet of aluminum with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm. Then they give it the necessary shape, trying on the base on a motorcycle. Hand sockets are cut out of metal of the same grade and thickness and riveted to the base with countersunk rivets or butt welded. This method is simpler than knocking out sockets from a whole sheet. The necessary rigidity to the shield is given by the flanging made along the edge. After filing the seams, the base is painted to match the color of the motorcycle, and the edges are finished with a vinyl chloride edging or a rubber tube cut along.
The most responsible work is the manufacture of the transparent part of the "visor". Having made a pattern out of paper, bend it along the axis of symmetry and check the coincidence of the edges. Transfer the outline of the pattern to a thin sheet of metal or other hard material and cut out the template. Place the template on a sheet of plexiglass 4-5 mm thick, protecting the latter from scratches with paper. To prevent the template from moving across the glass, it’s a good idea to tighten the entire package with clamps. Glass is cut with a jigsaw, hacksaw blade or cutter made from a piece of cloth, sharpened in the form of a crochet hook.
To give the glass the necessary curvature, the plexiglass is heated. This is best done over a gas stove. Put on gloves on your hands and rotate the glass over the burners without bringing it close to the fire. When you feel the pliability of the glass, gradually bend it, but no longer over the fire. As soon as the glass becomes elastic, heat it up again and bend it, checking the result at the base of the "windshield". This work requires patience and accuracy, otherwise the glass will crack and all the work will go down the drain. It is necessary to cool the glass in air at room temperature, preventing it from straightening.
Rice. 22. Dimensions and pattern of the windshield glass.
Now you can start assembling. Wrap the lower end of the glass with thin rubber or vinyl chloride, clamp between the base and the pre-cut metal plate and drill holes for 4 mm screws in one pass. The screws must not be placed very close to the edges of the glass. If a small crack appears on the glass while working with the shield, "stop" its progress with a small hole drilled at the end of the crack.
When fixing the windshield on a motorcycle, a mandatory condition must be observed - a rigid connection of the “windshield” with the motorcycle so that the glass does not vibrate on the go. You can do it this way. Clamps or split clamps are installed on the steering wheel, to the upper parts of which racks are attached, connecting the steering wheel to the base of the "visor". As racks, you can use steel bars with a diameter of 12-14 mm, bent at the desired angle (Fig. 23). Bottom of base
The shield is attached to the lower beam of the fork with rods, which are fixed with bolts that tighten the fork feathers.
The correct installation of the windshield is very important. It is necessary to look at the road not through the shield, but over it, since any contamination of the glass impairs visibility. The upper edge of the glass should lie just below eye level, and on the shield slope - direct the air flow a few centimeters above the head. But remember: a large slope is dangerous. When driving over an obstacle, the motorcyclist stands up on the footpegs and may hit the glass edge with his chin.
Equally important is the geometry of the windshield. The excessive width of the shield makes it difficult to control the motorcycle in crosswinds.
The normal width and bending radius of the glass should allow airflow to pass 3-5 cm from the shoulders of the driver. When installing a windshield on a motorcycle with a sidecar, please note that the air reflected from the shield must not fall on the passenger in the sidecar. In conclusion, carry out sea trials of the “visor” and, if necessary, do finishing work.
Rice. 23. Installing a windshield on a motorcycle. 
Mud guards and wheel covers.
It is also useful to take care of the protection of the legs. The sun does not always illuminate a long road, and driving with wet feet is a small pleasure. Therefore, we offer tourists to install mud shields on their motorcycles.
However, performing the main function - protecting the legs from wind and dirt, they should not touch the road when cornering, interfere with the operation of the pedals, vibrate and rattle when driving.
Sheet aluminum is suitable for the manufacture of shields, which is easy to give the desired shape. You can also use
deep front fenders of motorcycles such as Java or Ch3. The widest part of the wing is used, from which the stretch marks are removed. The shields are interconnected by two transverse steel strips and fixed to the front brace of the frame with brackets. If the motorcycle has arcs, then the shields are fixed to the upper and lower crossbars of the arcs with clamps. It is not necessary to have mudguards permanently on the motorcycle. It is possible to offer a variant of easily removable shields, made in the form of covers, put on the arcs only when necessary (Fig. 24). From rubberized fabric, oilcloth or thin tarpaulin, covers are sewn in the shape of arcs. Rings are attached to one cover, two elastic bands with hooks are attached to the other. Covers are put on arcs and pulled together with elastic bands. When making a pattern of such shields, do not forget about the free passage of air for engine cooling. These covers are quickly put on the arches at the first drops of rain, and when folded, they take up little space.
Rice. 24. Covers-mudguards on the arcs. 
But no matter how good the mudguards are, they will not help enough if the car has small wings that provide little protection from the spray that breaks off the wheels. In this case, it’s a good idea to additionally hood the wheels by screwing metal lining to the wing sides. So that the lining does not spoil the appearance of the motorcycle, they are started from the inside.
Help protect the driver's legs and passenger's back from dirt rubber mudguards suspended at the ends of the front and rear fenders. To prevent the mudguards from dangling, they are cut out of hard rubber and bent to the shape of the wings.
But all these measures are justified if the tourist route passes mainly along good roads. If you have to drive a significant part of the way on dirt roads and there is a fear that they can be washed out by rains, then deep wings will make movement difficult. This is especially true for the front fender, which is mounted on the movable part of the fork and has a small gap with the tire. Such a wing will become clogged with mud, which can lead to wheel jamming and a fall. To correct the situation, you can bend the wing mount onto the fixed elements of the front fork. For example, on Java motorcycles (Fig. 25), the supporting element of the wing can be a steel rod 1, passed through a hole in the steering column and fixed with a nut under the headlight cap. An overlay 2 is welded to the rod, made of 1.5-2 mm steel sheet. The wing struts are cut and riveted to a new place. The wing is mounted on the machine and connected to the lining with two M8 bolts, and the struts are pulled together with clamps on the front fork covers. With such a reworking of the front fender mount, the motorcycle's flotation is increased, and do not complain if the fender is less protected from splashes. Something has to give up.
Rice. 25. Attaching the wing to the fixed part of the front fork. 
Some travel gear.
When preparing for a trip, it is useful to equip a motorcycle with other tourist equipment. So, on the way, a side stop will come in handy: during a short stop, a heavily loaded car will not have to be dragged onto a stand; setting the motorcycle on slopes or on soft ground will be greatly simplified (Fig. 26).
Rice. 26. Side stop. 
Motorists, whose travel route lies mainly outside paved roads, may benefit from a sports-type steering wheel, which differs from the standard one in its greater width, height and the presence of a crossbar that increases its rigidity. A motorcycle with a wide handlebar is easier to handle when riding on broken roads, on gravel, in sand, or in the event of a tire puncture. Since such steering wheels are most often homemade, the following circumstances must be taken into account when designing them. The material for the steering wheel should be seamless pipe. The width and curvature of the steering wheel must be such that when turning, the driver does not have to change the position of the body and reach for the steering wheel. The height of the handles of the steering wheel should not be higher than the level chest, and their position should be such that the brushes lie freely on the handles. A common mistake to be avoided is that a poorly designed steering wheel forces the driver to sit back. Such a landing is tiring, making it difficult to get up on the footboards, leaning forward on steep climbs.
You also need to think about the comfort of riding a motorcycle on a long journey. Comfort is created not only by the correct location of the footpegs, handlebars, levers, but also by a comfortable saddle. Recently, motorcycle plants have been putting cushion saddles on motorcycles. These saddles are comfortable if they are wide enough. Narrow pillows are not suitable for long trips: You can't sit on them for long. If your machine has a narrow saddle, sew a boot with foam or foam rubber side pads. The cover that expands the pillow is sewn from leatherette; the liners are glued with glue 88 and fixed with harsh threads. Straps are sewn to the bottom edge of the cover, which are tightened under the pillow. If you are going to travel without a passenger, such a cover can be combined with a motorized backpack. To increase the comfort of the passenger's ride, some are installed behind
saddle soft back.
This is especially useful on machines with short pillows, for example, on Vyatka scooters. old model. On the "Vyatka" and "Tula-200" steps are useful, which are made of bent steel plates. To prevent legs from jumping off, rubber pads from skis are riveted to the footboards.
For any motorcycle tourist who wants to be well prepared for a trip, a motorcycle is a wide field of activity for technical creativity. So, in addition to the manufacture of trunks, arches, a “visor” and other devices, it is possible to modify the electrical equipment of the car, expand its capabilities, and make it more convenient.
Let's start with fog lamp. It is installed on the lower right crossbar of the arc (Fig. 29). The low position of the headlight allows it to be used effectively when driving in fog. It is desirable that the headlight gives a yellow light. If there is no yellow glass or lamp, you can insert a yellow flexible light filter between the lamp and the glass. Such light filters are used in lighting equipment and are sold in theater supply stores.
The right location of the headlight meets the conditions of traffic safety in the dark. In oncoming traffic, drivers
cars are “asked” not to blind them and switch from low beam to parking. But with such a light it is dangerous to ride, especially for motorcyclists.
The transition to the parking light plus an additional headlight eliminates the blinding of drivers, and the motorcyclist sees the road and the right side of the road. The headlight is connected to the parking light terminal through a special toggle switch. By the way, the location of the fog lamp, often found on motorcycles near the main one, in our opinion, is nothing more than decoration.
There is another type of additional headlight - a swivel headlight with a hinged device. The need for such a headlight is especially felt on machines with a fixed main headlight (for example, on the MTs motorcycle, Tula, Chezetta and others scooters). Install the turning headlight next to the main one on the steering wheel or on the upper crossbar of the arc. If you put such a headlight on the sidecar of a motorcycle, then it is better to place it on the left side of the stroller so that the driver can reach it with his hand. The turning headlight can be useful when choosing a path on a bad section of the road, when orienting at night on the ground. Should
keep in mind that its installation requires permission from the traffic police.
Figure 29. Installing a fog lamp on a protective arc. 
Direction indicators will be of great use in the city and on the highway. Some motorcycle factories equip their cars with "flashing lights". If your "crew" is not equipped with signs, we advise you to do so.
Direction indicator lights should be spaced as wide as possible and put in them lamps with a power of at least 15 watts. Try to use lamps of the same type as those installed on the motorcycle - this will allow, in the event of a burnout of one of them, to borrow it in another, less responsible place. For motorcycle direction indicators, 6-volt relays RS-419 have been released. You can also take the automotive 12-volt relay RS-57, which has a screw for adjusting the blinking intervals. By adjusting the RS-57 relay, it is possible to make it work in a 6-volt electrical system.
The relay is placed in the headlight of the motorcycle. A turn signal switch is installed next to the throttle handle (Fig. 30). You can make it on the basis of a standard light switch by making a slight alteration. On Java motorcycles, for example, a contact plate with a spring is removed from the switch, and a small recess is drilled in the middle lamella to fix the neutral position (Fig. 31).
Rice. thirty 
Rice. 31 
If the front direction indicators are not visible to the driver, it is necessary to provide control over the operation of the system. To do this, put a signal light on the headlight. If the indicator lights are installed on the windshield, holes are drilled under them so that the light from the bulbs is visible to the driver.
Side trailer equipment.
All our reasoning about constructive additions concerned single motorcycles. The same devices, with the possible exception of the arcs of the side stop and the right hinged bag, are useful on a motorcycle with a sidecar. On the stroller itself, an additional trunk is useful behind the passenger seat, where it is convenient to place large items, such as a tent. In the places where the trunk supports are installed, the body of the stroller is reinforced from the outside and from the inside with metal plates. The trunk is made of steel tubes with a diameter of 10-12 mm (Fig. 32). To prevent luggage from slipping, the cargo area should have a small back.
A significant advantage of motorcycles with a sidecar is the ability to carry spare wheel. On motorcycles "Izh", "Pannonia" it is placed on a special bracket mounted on the rear of the left side of the trailer. Bracket design may vary. It is important only in the place of its installation to strengthen the body of the stroller from the inside. When positioned sideways, the wheel does not interfere with the passenger of the motorcycle and is easily accessible.
A very necessary addition to the stroller can be an awning, especially when traveling with a child. The canopy should be foldable, compact and lightweight Here is how one motorcyclist solved this issue on side trailer BP-62 (Fig. 33). The base of the tent is four duralumin arcs. They are covered with a thin tarpaulin (you can use other soft, durable, waterproof material). The hinged devices of the frame are attached to the sides of the stroller. The back arch is motionless. The awning in the raised state is fastened to the frame of the windshield. In places of contact with glass, the front arc
edged with microporous rubber (Fig. 34). This awning could use a small rear window made of thin plexiglass. When designing such an awning, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of opening it by the passenger from the inside and ensuring good tension of the tarpaulin.
Rice. 32. Trunk and spare wheel mounting on the stroller. 
Rice. 33. Folding awning on the sidecar of a motorcycle. 
Rice. 34. Sketch of the awning on the stroller: 1 - hinged mount, support cushion and M8 bolt; 2 - bracket and mounting bolts M6; 3 - arc 1600 mm long; 4 - waterproof fabric; 6 - arc 2000 mm long; 6 - arc 1900 mm long; 7 - arc 1620 mm long;
8 - foam rubber gasket 
Rear trailer.
A special conversation will be about a one-wheeled rear trailer. In some countries, for example, in Czechoslovakia, Poland, the GDR, such trailers are widely used.
Retaining all the advantages of single track transport, the rear trailer expands the capabilities of a solo motorcycle, making it easier to place cargo on a journey. If it takes a lot of time to secure luggage on a motorcycle, then a trailer makes it easier. It takes a few minutes to connect it to a motorcycle or scooter - just insert the kingpin, cotter it and connect the trailer's rear light socket.
Starting off on a motorcycle with a trailer is simple. The car does not drive from side to side. Movement with him is not difficult. Turns with a rear trailer are easy to pass; this advantage over a side trailer is especially noticeable on mountain roads. When braking the motorcycle, there is no tendency for the rear trailer to skid, which is not the case for a side trailer not equipped with a brake.
There are, of course, some features of driving a motorcycle with a trailer. The speed should be limited to 70-75 km / h - after all, additional loads are transferred to the motorcycle frame, and the small trailer wheel “feels” every pothole on the road. You will also need certain skills to move a motorcycle with a trailer in reverse.
An idea of the design of the rear trailer can be given by the PAV-40 trailer released by the Czechoslovak industry (Fig. 35). Its supporting frame consists of one high-quality steel pipe with a diameter of 25 mm. Two crossbars are welded to it, to which a body is attached with the help of 4 rubber cushions. In the center of the frame, an arc is welded to protect the sides of the trailer in case of a fall. The suspension system consists of two telescopic shock absorbers, the wheel is located in the pendulum fork. The body is steel, stamped, has several stiffeners. From above it is closed by a cover with the lock. A license plate and signal lights are fixed on the rear wall of the trailer. The electrical wiring is connected using a plug connector to the rear light.
Rice. 35. RAU-40 rear trailer and a tow hitch for connecting it to a motorcycle. 
Tow hitch made of four steel tubes connected in one knot. The risers are lugs and are attached to the motorcycle by the upper rear shock absorbers and the passenger's footrest bolts. Two ears with holes for the hinge pin of the rotary device are welded to the tube connection unit.
In recent years, rear trailers have begun to appear on the roads of our country, and everywhere they are of great interest. Without waiting for the industry to master the production of one-wheeled trailers, some motorists began to make them themselves.
The rear trailer was successfully designed by the motorcycle tourism enthusiast B. Ezdakov (Fig. 36). The frame of his trailer consists of two parallel steel tubes connected by cross members. Ears are welded to the frame, to which the body is attached through rubber blocks. The body frame is assembled from duralumin corners, facing from aluminum sheets. The lower part of the telescopic shock absorber is fixed on a movable platform, which makes it possible to correctly adjust its inclination (Fig. 37). The platform, in turn, has elliptical holes and is bolted to the frame lugs.
Rice. 36. Rear trailer designed by B. Ezdakov. 
Rice. 37. Installation of a telescopic shock absorber on the rear trailer. 
The coupling unit and the turning device are more perfect than those of the PAV-40 trailer described above. This design provides better connection with the motorcycle, as the play in the joints is reduced, and this is important for the quick response of the trailer to machine maneuvers (Fig. 38). In addition, the towing device is a trunk with a rear platform and small side bags.
Rice. 38. Scheme of the rear trailed stroller. 
One of the authors had the opportunity to carry out extensive tests of this trailer, both empty and fully loaded. The tests were carried out on mountain serpentines of roads and on the highway at speeds up to 90 km/h. Grade driving performance the tallest,
When designing such a trailer, one should refrain from inflating the dimensions of the body: after all, the motorcycle is not truck tractor. The tow hitch mounted on a motorcycle can be made more openwork by using tubes with a diameter of 14-16 mm. However, it must be said that so far the traffic police do not always give permission for the operation of home-made rear trailers due to the lack of technical requirements that trailers must meet. The question of them will soon, obviously, be resolved, and the trailers will acquire the rights of citizenship.
In conclusion, I would like to draw the reader's attention to the aesthetic side when designing additional devices. Successfully found outlines are pleasing to the eye, and we must strive to make home-made tourist equipment organically fit into the contours of the car and harmonize with them.
Useful little things.
Now, perhaps, it's time to talk about some of the "little things" that create certain conveniences on the journey, facilitate the operation of the machine, and allow you to have spare parts and tools at hand. At first glance, they may seem redundant, but, as experienced people say: “You always don’t notice the little things when they are, and you really feel their absence.”
In addition to various devices of our own design, we bring to your attention a description of a number of devices proposed by other motorcyclists (based on the materials of the Za Rulem magazine).
1. How much gas is in the tank? The motorist will answer such a question quickly by looking at the device. The motorcyclist, on the other hand, has to determine the amount of gasoline “by eye”. The simplest benzometer will help to increase the measurement accuracy (Fig. 39). It is made from a textolite rod or other material that is well wetted by gasoline. The rod is lowered vertically into the tank, where gasoline is poured in 1 liter increments, and the corresponding risks are made on the rod. The number of liters is written above each risk, and the gas meter is ready.
Rice. 39. The simplest gas gauge 
Rice. 40. Float benzomer
2. You can use a more complex design of the benzometer, the advantage of which is that the pointer is constantly in the tank (Fig. 40). From a three-millimeter steel wire, guides are bent in the form of the letter P and threads are cut at the ends. In a foam float with holes for guides, a light tube is fixed - a pointer with graduations in liters. Three holes are drilled in the flange of the tank neck and a tube and the ends of the guides with pre-screwed bottom nuts are brought out through them. Then screw on the top guide nuts and tighten them. In this case, the lower part of the guides with a vinyl chloride tube put on it should rest against the bottom of the tank. At the upper end of the pointer, a flag is fixed with a screw, which allows fixing the pointer in the lowered position.
3. A measuring cup for oil is needed on the road, because not all dispensers are equipped with mixers. The most suitable place for it is in the gas tank grid. The glass can be used metal or polyethylene. On its inner wall, risks are applied that determine the amount of oil per 1 and 2 liters of gasoline. If the cup does not fit in the factory grid, you will have to unsolder it from the support ring and solder a new, deeper one. On machines where there is no mesh at all, put it on. It will always come in handy on the road when refueling from a “random” bucket.
4. On a number of motorcycles, access to the battery and tool boxes is possible after raising the seat cushion, which is inconvenient on a long journey. We advise you to install internal locks on the lids (locks from the boxes of the Pannonia motorcycle or door locks from the GAZ cars will do after appropriate modification).
5. The battery box of some motorcycles can be used efficiently by moving the battery as far as possible to the side. A plastic flask or a metal can for 400-500 cm3 of engine oil is placed in the vacated space next to the battery. There is also a place for the ignition setting indicator, spare fuses, a gas gauge and other items (Fig. 41). Fastening is carried out by clamps mounted on the walls.
Rice. 41. Use of space in the battery box. 
6. A lot of disappointment can be delivered by battery electrolyte that has fallen on a chrome muffler. To avoid this, you need to wrap the battery in a sheet of thin rubber or plastic wrap. The cover should be 15-20 mm higher than the terminals. It is impossible to completely wrap the battery: the gas released during its charging must have a free exit to the atmosphere. The battery case is held in place by a rubber ring.
7. For refueling on the Road, it is good to have a gas hose with you. As a hose, you can use 1.5-2 m of a rubber tube sold in pharmacies. Such a tube, rolled up into a spiral, can be stored under a rubber ring worn on the battery.
torus
8. The most common tool a motorcyclist needs is a screwdriver and a spark plug wrench. Therefore, it is advisable not to wrap them in a bag, but to install them in special clips located in the tool box. Spare candles are conveniently stored in holders next to the candle wrench. To protect the electrodes, plastic bottle caps are put on the candles. By the way, the tool bag will not interfere with closing the box if it is pressed against the wall with a rubber ring draped over the hooks (Fig. 42).
Rice. 42. Use of space in the toolbox. 
9. In order not to lose small parts during the night repair of the carburetor or other components, use the hinged covers of the battery or tool boxes. In this case, the "underhood" lamps installed in the boxes will help a lot.
10. It is necessary to have a portable lamp on the road. Crocodile clips are soldered to the ends of its cord. So that the hands are free during the repair, the “carry” is tied to a rubber ring, and the ring is put on the head.
Mounting a portable lamp may be different. Hardware stores sell small magnetic door latches. Attach the magnet of such a latch to the “carry”. Now it can be "glued" to any metal object.
12. On some machines for stacking small things, the seatpost is successfully used. On Java-350, for example, a shelf is conveniently mounted around the suction silencer, attached to the front of the second screw connecting the lining. With its rear part, it rests on the holders of the tool and battery boxes. For ease of installation, the shelf is made composite.
13. On some motorcycles, the edge of the front fender is low above the road. Improving the protection of the driver from road dirt, such a wing clings to relatively small road obstacles when driving. To increase the cross-country ability of the motorcycle, you can cut the lower part of the wing, and in order not to worsen its protective properties, add a rubber apron bent to the shape of the wing.
14. Every motorcyclist knows how sometimes it takes a long time to “ask” the car in front to give way. The low power of the signal does not convey the "cry of the soul" to the driver, Therefore, we advise you to equip the motorcycle with dual sound signals. You will see the benefits of dual signals when overtaking heavy trucks and when driving on serpentine mountain roads. Signals tuned to an overtone at maximum volume are mounted on a special bracket with the gratings forward. When installing signals under the headlight, remember that they must not interfere with the full travel of the front fork.
15. It is unlikely that anyone will have to be convinced of the use of a rear-view mirror. In the city, on the highway or when traveling in groups, it is simply necessary. Therefore, be sure to equip the car with a mirror, or even two - right and left. Some motorcyclists install a mirror on the windshield, others - on the steering wheel or at the end of the steering wheel. Preference should be given to fixing the mirror at the end of the steering wheel. With this setting, the image will not be partially obscured by the driver's hand or shoulder. True, there is more chance of losing the mirror when the car falls and it is not very convenient to lean it against a tree in the forest; however, this is not so
significant compared to good overview. By the way, a mirror on a short rigid rod vibrates less, and the image in this case is “not blurred”.
16. Not all cars have the ability to mount a mirror at the end of the steering wheel, as some factories install direction indicators in this place. On the scooter "Vyatka" VP-150 M, in order to combine these two necessary parts, the mirror is fixed as follows. An adapter washer 2 is made from a steel sheet with a thickness of 3 mm. In the nut 1, which fastens the turn indicator lamp, and in the adapter washer, four holes with a diameter of 3 mm are drilled with countersinks. Then the nut and washer are connected with countersunk rivets. Mirror bracket 3 is fixed on the ledge of the adapter washer. The marking of holes for rivets is done by pre-installing the nut, bracket and mirror (Fig. 43).
17. Some motorcyclists duplicate the mirror located on the motorcycle with a medical mirror attached to the headband of the glasses (Fig. 44). Such a mirror helps a lot on roads with frequent turns, when the reflection in the main mirror goes to the side, and it is undesirable to turn around. The leg of the mirror is held on the frame of the glasses with rubber rings. Before installation, it must be bent at a right angle.
Rice. 43. Mounting the mirror on the steering wheel of the scooter "Vyatka" and V-150 M 
Rice. 44. Installing a medical mirror on the temple of glasses. Reflection angles when looking forward and sideways
18. If most of the route lies on dirt roads, it does not hurt to have bracelets worn on rear wheel. This is especially useful for a motorcycle with a sidecar on a rain-soaked road. Bracelet straps can be made from 4 mm thick rubberized fabric or an old conveyor belt, after cutting off several layers. Belt width 35 mm, length 500-550 mm (depending on the balloon size). Grousers are made from a 3 mm steel sheet and bent to fit the shape of the tire. On the wheel, the bracelets are pulled together with bolts passed through metal plates fixed at the ends of the belt (Fig. 45).
Rice. 45. Installing grouser straps on the wheel 
19. If your motorcycle does not have side and rear handlebars, we advise you to make them. They will make it easier to put the motorcycle loaded with luggage on. parking lot and come in handy when pulling out of the mud. Handle-brackets must be rigidly connected to the frame.
20. To drain water that may get into the chain guard during rain or when crossing a ford, drill in the bottom
point of the casing hole with a diameter of 2-2.5 mm.
Original do-it-yourself motorcycle trunks always look spectacular and attract attention. Very often, such additional elements are made of lightweight and durable materials - PVC, plywood, thick leather. The only requirements for a homemade motorcycle trunk are their lightness, compactness, lack of interference while riding, as well as aesthetic appearance.
All motorcycle baskets can be divided into several types, given their shape and appearance:
- Side cases dating back to cowboy days. This type of accessory is ideal for long trips. The dimensions of the side cases are significant, as they should fit all the things necessary for a comfortable stay on the road.
- The size and shape of the back panniers can be varied - rectangular, in the form of a loaf, compact and full-fledged. Usually attached to the back of the passenger seat, rear fender or trunk.
- You can’t confuse “loaves” with anything - they have the shape of an elongated cylinder. You can install such an accessory in various parts of the motorcycle.
- Small bags that are hung near the gas tank are designed for folding documents, a phone and other small items.
When choosing such accessories, and, in particular, a rear case for a motorcycle, one should take into account the increase in the size of the equipment and the decrease in its maneuverability and speed.
How to make motorcycle panniers: procedure
Before you start making wardrobe trunks, you need to decide on their shape, material, fastening system, and the presence of decorative elements. To make leather accessories, you will need to make a life-size pattern. If your trunk is made of plywood, metal or plastic, then you will need a sketch of the future product, and you will also have to decide on the fastening of parts and trim.
Consider making a leather basket with your own hands:
- Make patterns for all the details of the wardrobe trunk, taking into account the seam allowance (1-1.5 cm maximum).
- if you have sewing machine to work with leather, start stitching the details. In the absence of a machine, you will have to sew the parts of the case by hand using a machine seam.
- Turn the trunk right side out and start stitching the seams - for this, step back from the edge of 3-4 mm. Make sure that the decorative seams are even.
- To stiffen, drive rivets into the corners of the case. After that, you can proceed to the manufacture of buckles and a system for attaching accessories to the frame.
- Cut the laces from the leftover leather with which the trunk will be attached to the motorcycle. At the same time, moisten the seams of the product from the inside well with water to give the material elasticity and leave them to dry.
- Cut out the flaps for the wardrobe trunk, mark the line of seams (main and decorative) and immediately sew the details.
- At the final stage, you will need to engrave some pattern on the valve or sew on any other decorative element of your choice.
Try to make motorcycle trunks with your own hands, embodying the most daring creative ideas and ideas!
In general, motorcycle trunks are made different ways from different material. My client wanted them to be pure leather with no internal skeleton. Therefore, a black shore of 3.2 mm was chosen. In the process, the thought flashed that it would be nice to make a saddle saddle - it is tougher. But I decided in advance to wax the wardrobe trunks so that they would not absorb moisture, so I took a blinker. After waxing, the rigidity will be at the proper level.
This is what my sketch looks like. This, of course, is a bug, but everything suits me - informative and don't care about spilled coffee.
Since the idea of the tutorial came to me already after the start of work on wardrobe trunks, I successfully blew the whole process of cutting, cutting and painting leather. In principle, everything is elementary there, everyone knows how to cut and cut fabrics or some other crap, so I didn’t bother with this stage. P.S. I made all the patterns from pre-veneer or very hard cardboard, so that everything was even.
So, we have almost all the patterns except for the valve, which will be made from other leather, because the necessary black blinker was stupidly missing. On the valves I will use the same blinker, only reddish, on which there will be a pattern in the form of a raven. In order to evenly sew a wardrobe trunk, which is essentially a large bag, you need to punch holes in advance for the future seam. I strongly recommend that you get a groove cutter and cut a millimeter groove for the thread - this way it will never overflow in your life and the seam looks much more spectacular and even. In general, the marking is done with a special pen on the skin and then erased, but I don’t have it, so I use a simple hard pencil, but it doesn’t erase the bastard. In short: I mark the seam, cut out the groove.
Next, I put marks on the back of the patterns so as not to confuse what to sew on. It's time to punch holes for the seam. Here the main principle is that there should be the same number of holes and a symmetrical arrangement on patterns sewn to each other. If you punch at random, at the end of the seam a smut will come out in the form of extra holes that you can’t hide in any way, and the obvious asymmetry of the sewn bag. In the first wardrobe trunk, I got a smut due to an extra hole, which I almost punched out of inattention. If it hit, an asymmetry in the form of a hardened centimeter would come out - it immediately catches your eye, so be careful. Chinese craftsmen generally first glue the surfaces for a moment and only then sew.
I start sewing the bottom of the wardrobe trunk to its front wall. For good, it would be worth immediately trimming the edges and rounding, but I don’t have the right tool, so I just make an even cut and paint it. That’s exactly the way it’s supposed to be, because buckles can still be attached to it, and even in the case of a jamb, it’s easier and faster to remake. All seams are handmade with two needles one towards the other. Synthetic thread, braided + waxed, 1mm in diameter. IMPORTANT: before sewing on the front wall of the case, it is necessary to mark and punch all the seams and holes, as well as cut out all the necessary grooves for the folds on the piece of leather that will be the bottom (and immediately bend in the right places with a mallet neatly). Because then it will be a rare hemorrhoid. As a result, we have such a bullshit. IMMEDIATELY after flashing, we go to the bathroom, moisten the mezdra (back side of the skin) with some water and gently tap with a hammer, as shown in the photo. As a result, we have clear angles of 90 degrees at the seam. And the eye pleases and scuffs and other slaps are excluded, as in the photo of the old case below, in which the seams are not bent (the thread is torn and the seam is unraveling, everything is torn ..).
Next, I make exactly the same blank for the second wardrobe trunk. In a good way, it would be necessary to immediately wax the outer wall until the back wall is sewn on, so as not to suffer too much later. I'll probably do this. In this case, you need a lot of wax until the skin stops absorbing it. This is to give rigidity and water resistance to the skin, because the shora is a very soft variety and does not hold its shape well. I prefer to keep the process of waxing and the composition a secret, do not blame me. Whoever needs it will google it. By the way, I wax from the side of the mezra, because the face in this case is painted.
While my hands with corns are resting from sewing, I take the back walls of the saddlebags and with the help of old motorcycle bags I align and adjust the fastenings to the owner’s motorcycle, at the same time I will immediately cut the laces to fasten them to the frame. I take the laces from the same leather as the saddlebags and cut them with a cord cutter in a couple of minutes. I punch holes in the right places for future lacing.
In parallel with the two previous points, I begin to slowly fasten the buckles and cut out the straps. Nothing complicated. And I immediately fasten them to the case. In this case, the buckles are fastened to rivets called holnitens. This little thing brutally saves time and effort, looks impressive, but loves to slide off the anvil and it turns out to be slammed like in the photo. The treatment is either to tear out this infection, trying not to tear the skin, or to tap it with a hammer and forget it. Minus - looks bad. It remains to cut off the excess from the bottom and you can sew the back wall. p.s.: before sewing the back wall on it, you need to punch holes for fastening to the motorcycle frame. I forgot to do this - so I will suffer already with the wall sewn on.
I sewed on the back wall, tapped the folds with a hammer (we generously pour water on the outside of the groove and inside the wardrobe trunk the place of the fold with water so that the skin is plastic and stretches), so that everything is smooth and beautiful. While the first wardrobe trunk dries, I sew the second one. Waxing the bottom and back wall of wardrobe trunks.
Now is the time to carve out and put on the rivets the inner valve on the buttons, so that the contents of the trunk do not fall out of the pits through the gaps between the main valve and the walls of the trunk.
I cut out the valves for both trunks, mark the seams - decorative (immediately stitched) and for attaching to the trunk. I'm drawing with a burner. I paint the drawing first, then everything else neatly. It remains to wax and sew to the wardrobe trunk.
