Unfortunately, not every person has the opportunity to purchase an ATV in a store. Everything more or less interesting models now they are quite expensive, and buying a used ATV is always a certain risk. In this regard, many motorists are advised to make a four-wheeled all-terrain vehicle with their own hands, using an engine and spare parts from some old Soviet motorcycle. Earlier, we already told you about how to make an ATV from a Ural motorcycle. In today's article, we will talk about other donors that you can use if you decide to assemble an ATV with your own hands.
Why is it worth assembling an ATV with your own hands?
Putting together a four-wheeled all-terrain vehicle with your own hands definitely helps to solve several problems. The first reason people decide to do homemade quad bike, this is of course a small budget. If we analyze the market prices for ATVs, we can understand that such vehicles can be considered almost a luxury. Prices for the simplest and low-power models start at 150 thousand rubles, for example, the Yamaha Blaster YFS200. In principle, such a single "quadric" is enough, but the power will always be lacking.
But models of ATVs with engines with a volume of 500-800 cm 3 will cost much more, about 500 thousand rubles. You can also consider Chinese models, such as Russian manufacturer Stels, but you will have to keep a good eye on them. New all-terrain vehicles of this brand will cost approximately 300-400 thousand rubles, but the engines are already much more interesting - 45-70 hp.
Nuances in the operation of a homemade "quadric"
If you definitely decided to make an ATV with your own hands, then you should know about the intricacies of its operation. In principle, if you need an all-terrain vehicle to ride in impassable places where patrol cars have never been, then there is probably nothing to worry about. You will have to face problems if you plan to drive even on small settlements, which are sometimes visited by patrol cars. Having caught you without documents for this vehicle, then with a probability of 99% it will be taken away from you. The whole difficulty lies in registering a home-made ATV, because the traffic police will most likely refuse you. In a good way, you can register a homemade product, but this is extremely difficult to do. Therefore, assembling a homemade ATV makes sense only if you operate it in some wilderness.
Making a choice
So, how to make an ATV with your own hands? When creating a homemade ATV, we need to decide on a donor, that is, a motorcycle that will underlie our project. Old Soviet motorcycles are perfect for a four-wheeled all-terrain vehicle. From them we can borrow an engine with a gearbox, a frame, a steering wheel and, if desired, such details as a tank, a seat and other elements. Since we already had an article about a homemade ATV from a Ural motorcycle, in this review we will talk about how to make an ATV based on an IZH motorcycle.
For our purpose, almost all models of motorcycles from the Izhevsk plant are suitable for us. The only thing that is important to understand is the power of the engine. Still, the end result will be a fairly heavy structure, so the best solution would be to use latest models- IZH Jupiter 5 or IZH Planet 5. It makes no sense to consider more interesting models, like IZH Planet Sport, because it is not easy to find them, and if possible, it is better to restore them, because the motorcycle is quite rare and interesting. We turn to the main thing, how to make an ATV and what is needed for this.
Rear suspension
Once you have decided on a donor, in our case it is IZH Jupiter 5, you need to completely disassemble the motorcycle. After disassembly, we need a frame on which everything was held, including the engine. It is quite logical that in order to increase the reliability of the structure, the frame must be strengthened in several places.
Now it is necessary to weld the rear axle so that instead of a wheel, a block of bearings with a chain drive can stand on the axle. An example, you can see in the photo. As a suspension, you can use ordinary shock absorbers from a motorcycle, and parts from an old Zhiguli car are suitable for the rear axle. You can go a more complicated way and install a monoshock absorber, but then again you will have to look for spare parts from the car, for example, from the same Zhiguli or Oka.
Front suspension
Once the rear suspension is finished and installed, it's time to move on to the front of the bike, which is a bit trickier. In the case where we were dealing with the rear suspension, we had the opportunity to choose how much shock absorber will be installed. When creating the front suspension, we have only one option - to use two shock absorbers.
Oka's car is perfect for the role of a donor for the front of the ATV. From it we need shock absorbers, rotary nodes and steering trapezoid. However, be prepared for the fact that the spare parts will still have to be changed - something to be welded, sawed off, filed. Also good and more simple option, there will be a monoblock installation with fixed wheel planes. Then you do not have to look for a steering linkage, couplings, hinges and other spare parts.
A monoblock is a really simple option, because it takes literally an hour to install. The only disadvantage of this design of the front suspension is a heavier mechanism. Turning the steering wheel will be somewhat more difficult than with a suspension with shock absorbers.
Engine
Many wondering how to make an ATV with their own hands, they understand that it is worth starting with the engine. And indeed, main detail in the future ATV is the engine. The end result, and indeed the whole structure, depends on how powerful it will be. Of course, you can leave the engine from the donor motorcycle, but in the end the “quad” will turn out to be not so powerful. If, however, a little more seriously approach the creation of an all-terrain vehicle, then the installation is more powerful engine would be a great solution. We hope that we have answered your question about how to make an ATV yourself.
The quad bike is a great solution for off-road. It is popular with extreme recreation lovers, fishermen, hunters and anyone who needs to get to places where a car cannot pass. This type of transport is easy to manage, has excellent cross-country ability and is quite stable while driving.
Factory ATVs are quite expensive, so craftsmen choose the economy option: they make such cars themselves. Of course, this decision is not for everyone: you need not only to have golden hands and the tools necessary for the job, but also to be well versed in the structure of a car, motorcycle, and the ATV itself.
If there is a persistent desire to independently make this miracle of technology, it’s worth starting with planning. It is necessary to decide on the models on the basis of which the transport will be assembled, and draw up drawings for them. Be sure to think about what tools will be needed in the process of work and make sure that they are in good condition. No matter how boring this lesson may seem, nothing will come of it without preliminary preparation. If for some reason it is not possible to make a drawing yourself, you should find a ready-made version.
Next, you need sources. From a technical point of view, an ATV is a cross between a car and a motorcycle. Accordingly, for its manufacture you will need a motorcycle and a car. Optimal selection of domestic models for secondary market, it will be inexpensive, but the quality is quite satisfactory for the construction of an ATV. It is better to use a small car like "Oka" or "Niva". Of the motorcycles, the Ural is very popular for such purposes, you can take the IZH.
Technology
When the drawings are ready, the sources are purchased, and the tools are waiting in the garage, you can start making a homemade ATV. Ultimately, the life and health of people depends on the quality of work, so we must not rush and do everything consistently.
First you need to choose the engine and cooling system. A motorcycle engine is usually used, since it consumes less gasoline and takes up less space, but you can also take a car engine. Since it can overheat in summer, it is better to take an air-cooled model, optimally forced (using a cooler).
The frame must be assembled so that the engine can be fixed on it. It will be located in front or behind - it does not matter, the main thing is that it is securely fixed. There are two options here:
- Do new frame"from scratch" from pipes. In this case, it is necessary to have equipment that allows bending the material.
- Take the frame from the motorcycle as a basis, remove the excess and add the necessary.
Before making the final version of the frame, it is advisable to do spot welding and refer to the drawings.
How to make an ATV with your own hands based on a finished frame?
It is necessary to remove everything superfluous from it, leaving only the frame itself. The rear part is removed, and pipes are built up in front, and the bridge is welded.
Next, spare parts from the car and additional metal pipes are taken, the best option will be plumbing. To make a frame for a body, you need a pipe 70x40. Its length must be equal to or greater than the length of the spring, and the width is the same as that of the bridge.
The cardan must be connected to the box using a rubber coupling, and to the bridge - using flanges. The drive is easily done with your own hands using a chain from IZH.
If you plan to install springs on shock absorbers, it is advisable to leave the rear swingarm with silent blocks.
After making the frame, it is necessary to fix the engine on it. The muffler can be used homemade.
Transmission
It must be installed with high quality so that there is no backlash. The engine and drive can be removed from the motorcycle, and the wheels can be used from the car. The trunk is easily made from pipes with thin walls.
There are two possible options controls:
- Using the steering wheel (in this case, the base is taken from the car).
- With the help of a steering wheel from a motorcycle. Picks up with the steering wheel fuel tank. For a homemade steering shaft, a 20 mm pipe with walls of 2.8 is suitable. There should be a limiter on the bottom.
Suspension can be done either front or rear. In the manufacture of the back, two options are possible:
- The rear axle of the car is used. It will need to be shortened. The design will be heavy, but there will be a differential, which is useful on the tracks.
- A gear-cardan design is used. On rear axle a gearbox is mounted, and wheels are attached to the disks. This is a lighter version of the suspension for a homemade ATV. It does not have a differential, but this is not critical.
The front suspension is used from a motorcycle. Can do all-wheel drive model, but this is a much more time-consuming job, and it also requires certain skills in turning.
The pendulum arms are installed so that when turning the wheels of the ATV, they do not cling to the engine. If a Ural frame is used, the wheels should be moved further. Two bipods are welded to the steering column: on the left and right wheels. The A-pillar must be sloped.
ATV with all-wheel drive
To make it you will need steering system from the car, drive from mechanical transmission, suspension and differentials. suspension, like steering can be removed from the vehicle. The frame in such cases is cooked completely from scratch, starting from the size of the engine of the future ATV. On the front suspension, you should take into account the space for the gearbox for the drive.
Using automotive products purchased on the secondary market, it is possible to assemble vehicles for difficult roads and rural areas relatively inexpensively. One of the budget options for the source is the Ural motorcycle, since it is inexpensive, has rear drive and four stroke engine. Thanks to their positive aspects he is popular.
A self-made ATV is not only a convenient and practical vehicle, it is a reason for pride and an opportunity to demonstrate your skills. Outwardly, it may be inferior to factory designs, but in its technical specifications home-made ATVs are just as good.
Perhaps the only negative (apart from the time spent, since a favorite thing is not a burden) is the need to involve auto experts in order to obtain documents and be able to register an ATV.
We present the ATV of our regular author S. Pletnev from the city of Ocher, Perm Territory. Another machine built by him testifies to the increased design level and professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself...
A year has passed since, when leaving the garage, I tried my first ATV with rear-wheel drive (). And then the thought came: why not now make an all-wheel drive ATV (from the English. All Terrain Vehicle - all-terrain vehicle; similar machines received such an international designation).
Fortunately, at that time a buyer turned up for a buggy (), and the proceeds went to the implementation of a new project.
Year of work for 3 - 4 hours after work and on weekends - and new car was ready for testing, there were only small (and I would say pleasant) improvements: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other little things.
The power unit for my ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid-cooled. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.
Machine frame - spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipelines with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, cross members, etc.) - from VGT-20. The spars are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical one. He bent pipes on a pipe bender, "to the cold." Eyelets (pairs of ears) for attaching the levers and shock absorbers of the suspension were welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets - as the components and assemblies were mounted (in "place").
1 - front wheel(from the car "Chevrolet-Niva", 2 pcs.);
2 - engine (from the car "Oka");
3 - front wheel drive transmission;
4 - gearbox (from the car "Oka");
5 - rear wheel drive transmission;
7 - rear wheel(from the car "Chevrolet-Niva", 2 pcs.);
8 - fuel tank (20-liter canister);
9 - rear trunk;
10 - silencer;
11 - passenger backrest (headrest from the Oka car);
12 - saddle;
13 - clutch basket (from the Oka car);
14 - gear lock lever;
15 - body kit (fiberglass);
16 - steering wheel (from the Ural motorcycle);
17 - instrument panel (from the car "Oka");
18 - front trunk
The transmission of the all-terrain vehicle is peculiar. Although the car is all-wheel drive, but transfer box it doesn't. As you know, in the "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheels (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. That's just myself power unit, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal articulated shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.
The transmission is assembled from units of various domestic cars, mostly "VAZ" models. But ready-made industrial units also had to be finalized. For example, from the gearbox (from Oka), to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod also made another one - elongated, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The stem can be fixed in three positions: for engaging 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is located with right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.
Interwheel reducers - from rear axles VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts along with the "stockings" were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints as hinges are also used in the remaining intermediate shafts of the transmission.
1 - motor (from the car "Oka");
2 - clutch (from the car "Oka");
3 - gearbox;
4 - CV joint (from the car VAZ-2108, 12 pcs);
5 - final drive gearbox with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);
6 - shaft (from a VAZ-2108 car, 6 pcs.);
7 - wheel (from the car "Chevrolet-Niva")
low gear and no diff lock.
Steering - motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automotive type(with steering rods) - below, only simplified, without steering mechanism, with one bipod. The steering wheel was first used from a Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and installed from the Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. At the lower end it has a stroke limiter. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.
The bipod is made of steel sheet 8 mm thick in a shape resembling the letter "T". A hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made at the edge of the "rack" - a steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for ball tips of steering rods. These holes are reinforced with suitable welded washers. The lugs of the bipod are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.
Wheels - 15-inch, from the Chevrolet Niva car. Tires with appropriate rim size 205/70 (width/height as a percentage of width) with off-road tread pattern. The running diameter of the wheel is about 660 mm.
1 - lower spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);
2 - upper spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);
3 - rack (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
4 - support of the rear upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);
5 - rear brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
6 - support of the front upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
7 - front brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
8 - top support front shock absorber(corner 35×35);
9 - rack of the upper support of the front shock absorber (sheet s5, 2 pcs.);
10 - front engine mount support post (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);
11 - rear support leg of the engine mount (sheet s3.2 pcs.);
12 - eyelets for fastening levers and shock absorbers of suspensions (sheet s5, 18 pairs);
13 - saddle mounting bracket (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);
14 - upper cross connection (pipe d20x2.8);
15 - lower cross connection (pipe d20x2.8.2 pcs.);
16 - radiator support (pipe d25x3.2 cut in half lengthwise, 2 pcs.);
17 - front console of the steps (pipe d20x2);
18 - rear console of the steps (pipe d20x2);
19 - connection of the front and rear consoles of the steps (pipe d20x2);
20 - footrest cross member (sheet s5, 4 pcs.);
21 - lug for fastening a fiberglass body kit (sheet s5, set)
Wheel suspension - independent, on two triangular transverse levers each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). The levers are welded from round tubes of VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car "Oka" (rear). Wheel hubs are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers and steering knuckles- from the car VAZ-2109. Both of them had to be improved. I installed wheel studs from the Niva in the hubs, and home-made swing arms in the front fists.
Silencer - self-made, two-section. To protect against temperature warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.
ATV body kit - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for the implementation of the relevant work. But as it turned out - this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.
(a - the upper arm of the front suspension; b - lower arm front suspension; c - lower arm rear suspension; g - the upper arm of the rear suspension; all parts, except for those noted specifically, are made of VGT-20 pipe):
1 - beam (2 pcs.);
2 - cross member;
3 - bushing (pipe d37x32, 2 pcs.);
4 - shock absorber mounting eye (steel, sheet s3);
5 - ball joint (from the steering rod of the Zhiguli car)
First, I made the required body kit contours from a steel square pipe with a section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe easily bends even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be possible to cut off the “tacks” without difficulty. Then he bent the “wings” from hardboard (fibreboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend turned out to be steep, he attached separate strips from the same hardboard. The front end was removed with expanded polystyrene purchased at a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene foam or the same mounting foam, but polystyrene foam turned out to be a more suitable material - it is well cut with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a common structure on a mounting foam.
1 - steering shaft (pipe d20x2.8);
2 - steering wheel connection plate (steel, sheet s6);
3 - brace of the plate (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);
4 - detachable bracket-sleeve of the steering shaft (kapron, sheet s18);
5 - support washer (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);
6 - bipod (steel, sheet 18);
7 - steering limiter (steel, sheet s6);
8 - bearing housing;
9 - thrust tip (steel, circle 15);
10 - thrust bearing
Falshbak - complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of the hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill the place intended for it with layers of mounting foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise the thick volume of foam may not dry inside. Filled in until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse-grained sandpaper.
Under the dashboard, a part went into action dashboard"Oki". I fixed it on the blank, too, with the help of mounting foam. Since the foam is large-pored, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to correspond to the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the block, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, then plastering and painting the block could be neglected.
So, the blockhead is ready and in order to glue a quality product, it took: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 linear meters of thin fiberglass, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. It is highly recommended to wear respiratory protective equipment. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable. But experience, as you know, you can’t buy, so I gained it in the process of work.
I used transparent adhesive tape as a separating layer between the block and the product. Carefully, without gaps, he pasted over the whole blockhead with stripes. It took only 1.5 rolls of wide tape.
I diluted the resin by 200 - 300 grams with a hardener and a plasticizer. I used measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before that, I cut strips of fiberglass in such sizes that large canvases lay on even surfaces, and on irregularities, pieces of fabric could repeat them without making wrinkles. By the way, the fiberglass moderately stretches along the diagonal of the weaves, “flowing around” the desired shape.
First, he thickly smeared one section of the blockhead with epoxy resin, put fiberglass on it and impregnated it again with resin on top. I glued the adjacent piece of fabric using the same technology with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm. I had to work quickly - the resin sets quite quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, I also heated the resin a little near a powerful lighting lamp for better fluidity.
After wrapping the blockhead with fiberglass in one layer, I began to glue it with glass mat. I got the glass mat thick enough, and it turned out to be good for them to gain the thickness of the product. But it does not hug bumps, so I used it only on flat (or with a slight deflection) surfaces and without overlap. Impregnation with resin was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. It should only be taken into account that it takes a lot of resin to impregnate a stackomat, so you need to dilute it more. Uneven surfaces after gluing the stackomat were glued in several layers with a cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had set a little so that the resin did not leak. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day break, it was necessary to “roughen” the surface with large sandpaper and degrease it - after all, the resin is completely cured during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even in one layer.
Trunks:
a - front; b - rear
Since I needed a surface, as they say, the smoother the better, and there was not enough experience, dips and pits still remained - I filled them somewhere with one resin, and where with the imposition of pieces of fiberglass. Resin was a bit lacking. I bought more already in the hardware store, in boxes. I liked working with it more, because it was already packaged, and all that remained was to mix the components. And it dried faster than purchased at the company.
After the glued body kit had completely dried, I made cuts in it, dividing the product into three parts: rear fenders and back, false tank with underseat, front fenders and front. Carefully, slightly prying and pulling with his hands with picking, he separated the product in parts without much effort from the blockhead.
Now, having removed the parts, I began to process them separately, bringing them to the desired result. In general, the usual preparatory and painting work on the "whole" technology: first, rough grinding with the removal of large bulges of resin and fiberglass; then painstaking sealing of recesses with putty with fiberglass; then grinding the outer surface and priming with a plasticizer. In conclusion - painting with "metallic" and varnishing with a plasticizer.
Blockhead also neatly cut off and put in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded "in place" mounts on the frame.
In conclusion, I welded front and rear trunks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them, “kenguryatniks” that replace bumpers.
Main data of ATV:
Weight, kg…………………………………………430
Length, mm………………………………………2300
Width, mm
(along the outer sidewalls of tires)………1250
Height, mm:
on the steering wheel……………………………………….1250
on the saddle………………………………………..900
Ground clearance, mm…………………….300
Base, mm…………………………………………1430
Track, mm………………………………………1045
Maximum speed, km/h…………….65
S. PLETNEV, Ocher, Perm Territory
A considerable number of offers on the ATV market for young drivers today allow you to choose a modification with different characteristics and for any wallet. If you are not ready to spend an impressive amount to purchase an ATV, have a creative streak, minimal technical knowledge and some special skills, you can make an ATV for a child with your own hands. Of course, you will need some tools.
On the Internet you can find many interesting ideas for an ATV, perhaps you have your own ideas. Their implementation will surely bring you great joy of creativity and will allow you to get an original ATV at minimal financial cost.
How to make an ATV for a child with your own hands
A children's ATV can be made independently from old motor vehicles and additional spare parts. The main thing is that the vehicle you made is safe - after all, we are talking about children! If you plan to use new parts, then choose only high-quality ones, and used materials need the most critical evaluation. This is especially true for fasteners: bolts, screws, etc.
What will be required to create a children's all-terrain vehicle?
First of all, decide on appearance your unique ATV and its dimensions. You can make an off-road unit for a child of any complexity - it all depends on your knowledge and skills. If you don't want to spend months building an electric quad bike, opt for a simpler design - in the future, as your child grows, it can be improved.
The basis of any vehicle- frame. A do-it-yourself frame drawing of a children's ATV is necessary in order to maintain the accuracy of the dimensions of all structural elements. Surely you can make a drawing yourself. If you're looking to strengthen and upgrade your ATV in the future, then the frame should have a good margin of safety in suspension. Can be used as a square profile for the frame right size(for example, 25x25mm), a ¾ inch pipe or a finished structure from a donor model - it all depends on your desire, imagination and possibilities. If the frame is made independently, pay attention to the quality of the welds.
wheels, brake system and the steering system, shock absorbers - the next step in assembling an ATV for a child. Most masters recommend choosing new wheels - you can, for example, take wheels for karting or even for a garden wheelbarrow Ø320 mm. If you are making an ATV for an older child, he will probably want to ride it off-road - then choose wheels with a wide tread and buy stamped wheels (albeit the simplest ones). This will increase the safety of the ATV and allow the child to overcome serious obstacles.
Two-wheel drive for a children's ATV from an electric motor of sufficient power through a gearbox (homemade or ready-made) - good decision. The throttle button on the steering wheel will please your young driver and make the children's ATV look like a real one. The steering system is an important element to ensure the safety of the little driver and ensure that he can easily control his box.
Do-it-yourself electric ATV: engine and battery
The battery and engine for a homemade ATV are chosen based on the capabilities and needs of the driver. So, you can use a couple of engines from the Volga or a screwdriver, take an electric motor from a donor vehicle (for example, an electric scooter) or use your own idea. The main thing is that the electric motor provides sufficient speed for the child - the smallest will be enough for 5-8 km / h, older children will need more speed, which means that the engine is more powerful.
As for the battery, it is important to install it in such a way that there is no need to disassemble the entire structure for recharging. A battery from a donor scooter, an uninterruptible power supply or another one that you can find will do.
When all the main components are assembled, it's time to deal with the appearance of the ATV - after all, aesthetics are extremely important for the baby. Ideally, you can use body kit elements from an old non-working model of a children's ATV, but your imagination can tell you other original ideas.
Working on assembling an ATV will not only allow you to get a unique vehicle for little money. It will bring pleasure not only to adults, but also to children, since making a children's ATV with your own hands is an exciting, very interesting and useful activity for every man.
Editor
"Children's ATVs"
New posts:
Children's electric ATV El-Sport Junior ATV 500W 36V/12Ah
| Speed: | 25 km/h |
| Power: | 500W |
| Power reserve: | 20 km | 60 kg |
| Weight: | 40 kg |
| Wheel diameter: | 13" |
| Battery: | |
| Charging time: | 6-8 hours |
| Suspension: | Front and rear spring |
| Drive unit: | Chain |
| Brakes: | Disk |
| Dimensions: | 1020×660×650 |
| Color: | Green, black and white |
| Additionally: | Wheelbase 13x5-6 |
| Type: | electric quad bike |
Price: 36845 rubles 29900 rubles
Children's ATV on the battery El-Sport Kid ATV 800W 36V/12Ah
| Speed: | 25 km/h |
| Power: | 800W |
| Power reserve: | 20 km | 60 kg |
| Weight: | 40 kg |
| Wheel diameter: | 13" |
| Battery: | SLA (Lead Acid) 36V/12Ah |
| Charging time: | 6-8 hours |
| Suspension: | Front and rear spring |
| Drive unit: | Chain |
| Brakes: | Disk |
| Dimensions: | 1020×660×650 |
| Color: | Orange |
| Additionally: | Wheelbase 13x5 - 6" |
| Type: | electric quad bike |
Price: 37670 rub 34500 rub
El-Sport Children ATV 1000W 36V/12Ah
| Speed: | 25 km/h |
| Power: | 1000W |
| Power reserve: | 20 km | 60 kg |
| Weight: | 55 kg |
| Wheel diameter: | 13" |
| Battery: | SLA (Lead Acid) 36V/12Ah |
| Charging time: | 6-8 hours |
| Suspension: | Front and rear spring |
| Drive unit: | Chain |
| Brakes: | Disk |
| Dimensions: | 1020×660×650 |
| Color: | Green, blue spider |
| Age: | From 4 years old |
| Additionally: | Wheelbase 13×5 - 6" |
| Type: | electric quad bike |
Price: 43470 rubles 37900 rubles
Electric ATV Mytoy 500D
| Speed: | 35 km/h |
| Power: | 500W |
| Power reserve: | 35 km | 90 kg |
| Weight: | 70 kg |
| Material: | steel, tubular |
| Wheel diameter: | 14" |
| Battery: | 48V(4х12V)/20Ah |
| Brakes: | |
| Dimensions: | 1150x550x700 |
| Color: | Autumn camouflage, hip-hop, matte khaki, red |
| Dampers: | front/rear |
| Age: | from 4 years |
| Additionally: | The motor is electric, brushless, 500 watts, built into the rear axle; Full rear axle differential; Speedometer with battery charge indicator. Front LED headlights. turn signals; Remote control on/off at a distance of up to 50 meters; Possibility of installation automatic shutdown for 5-10 minutes; Speed limiter from 5 to 35 km/h; Reverse; Pneumatic rubber tubeless tires 14x4.10-6; Reinforced tie rods; Steering hubs on bearings; |
Price: 63000 rub
Electric ATV Mytoy 750E differential
| Power: | 600W |
| Power reserve: | 25 km | 100 kg |
| Weight: | 70 kg |
| Material: | Reinforced steel frame, tubular |
| Wheel diameter: | 16" |
| Battery: | 48V(4х12V)20Ah |
| Suspension: | Independent front |
| Brakes: | Front/rear manual disc hydraulic |
| Speeds: | Three speed limiters: First speed: 7-9 km/h; Second speed: 12-15 km/h; Third speed: up to 25 km/h; |
| Dimensions: | 1400x760x900 |
| Color: | yellow camouflage, autumn camouflage, maple |
| Dampers: | Oily |
| Age: | from 6 years old |
| Additionally: | The motor is electric, brushless, 600 watts, built into the rear axle; Full rear axle differential; Speedometer with battery charge indicator; Headlight; rear stop; Sound signal; turn signals; Mirrors; Remote control on/off at a distance of up to 50 meters; Ability to set automatic shutdown for 5-10 minutes; Reverse; Tires pneumatic rubber tubeless 16x8.00-7; |
Price: 77700 rub
Electric ATV Mytoy 500D Lux
| Speed: | 30 km/h |
| Power: | 500W |
| Power reserve: | 35 km | 90 kg |
| Weight: | 70 kg |
| Material: | steel, tubular |
| Wheel diameter: | 14" |
| Battery: | 48V(5х12V)/20Ah |
| Brakes: | Rear foot disc hydraulic |
| Dimensions: | 1150x550x700 |
| Dampers: | front/rear |
| Age: | from 4 years |
| Additionally: | The motor is electric, brushless, 500 watts, built into the rear axle; Full rear axle differential; Speedometer with battery charge indicator; Mufflers-speakers imitating the sound of the engine when you press the gas; Front LED headlights; turn signals; Remote control on/off at a distance of up to 50 meters; Ability to set automatic shutdown for 5-10 minutes; Speed limiter from 5 to 30 km/h; Reverse; Pneumatic rubber tubeless tires 14x4.10-6; Reinforced tie rods; Steering wheel bearings. |
Price: 69300 rub
Electric buggy MYTOY 500W
| Speed: | 30 km/h |
| Power: | 1000W |
| Power reserve: | 30 km | 60 kg |
| Weight: | 68 kg |
| Wheel diameter: | 13" |
| Battery: | 48V/20Ah (removable) |
| Brakes: | Disc hydraulic |
| Speeds: | First 5-8 km/h; Second 15-18 km/h; Third 25-30 km/h |
| Dimensions: | 1330x810x930 |
| Color: | Red Blue |
| Age: | From 7 years old |
| Additionally: | Charging indicator; Safety belt; Smooth gas pedal; Reverse speed: (reverse); Seat adjustment (forward, backward); Frame steel, tubular; Front LED headlights; LED strip around the perimeter; 13x5.00-6" (rubber, pneumatic, tubeless) |
Price: 82900 rub
power unit homemade ATV the engine from the Oka car became - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid-cooled. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.
And this is just a dream of every man! I want this one!!!
Homemade ATV frame- spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipelines with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, cross members, etc.) - from VGT-20. The spars are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical one. He bent pipes on a pipe bender, "to the cold." Eyelets (pairs of ears) for attaching the levers and shock absorbers of the suspension were welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets - as the components and assemblies were mounted (in "place").
Homemade ATV-all-terrain vehicle:
1 - front wheel (from a Chevrolet Niva car, 2 pcs.);
2 - engine (from the car "Oka");
3 - front wheel drive transmission;
4 - gearbox (from the car "Oka");
5 - rear wheel drive transmission;
7 - rear wheel (from a Chevrolet Niva car, 2 pcs.);
8 - fuel tank (20-liter canister);
9 - rear trunk;
10 - silencer;
11 - passenger backrest (headrest from the Oka car);
12 - saddle;
13 - clutch basket (from the Oka car);
14 - gear lock lever;
15 - body kit (fiberglass);
16 - steering wheel (from the Ural motorcycle);
17 - instrument panel (from the car "Oka");
18 - front trunk
Homemade ATV transmission- peculiar. Although the car is all-wheel drive, it does not have a transfer case. As you know, in the "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheels (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. That's just the power unit itself, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal articulated shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.
The transmission was assembled from units of various domestic cars, mainly "VAZ" models. But ready-made industrial units also had to be finalized. For example, from the gearbox (from Oka), to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod also made another one - elongated, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The stem can be fixed in three positions: for engaging 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.
Interwheel gearboxes - from the rear axles of the VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts, together with the "stockings", were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints as hinges are also used in the remaining intermediate shafts of the transmission.
Kinematic diagram of the transmission of a homemade ATV made of oki
1 - motor (from the car "Oka");
2 - clutch (from the car "Oka");
3 - gearbox;
4 - CV joint (from the car VAZ-2108, 12 pcs);
5 - final drive gearbox with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);
6 - shaft (from a VAZ-2108 car, 6 pcs.);
7 - wheel (from the car "Chevrolet-Niva")
There are no low gears or differential locks.
Steering - motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automobile type (with steering rods) - at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. The steering wheel was first used from a Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and installed from the Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. At the lower end it has a stroke limiter. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.
The bipod is made of steel sheet 8 mm thick in a shape resembling the letter "T". A hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made at the edge of the "rack" - a steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for ball tips of steering rods. These holes are reinforced with suitable welded washers. The lugs of the bipod are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.
Wheels - 15-inch, from the Chevrolet Niva car. Tires with appropriate rim size 205/70 (width/height as a percentage of width) with off-road tread pattern. The running diameter of the wheel is about 660 mm.
Frame drawing homemade ATV:
1 - lower spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);
2 - upper spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);
3 - rack (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
4 - support of the rear upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);
5 - rear brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
6 - support of the front upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
7 - front brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
8 - upper support of the front shock absorber (corner 35 × 35);
9 - rack of the upper support of the front shock absorber (sheet s5, 2 pcs.);
10 - front engine mount support post (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);
11 - rear support leg of the engine mount (sheet s3.2 pcs.);
12 - eyelets for fastening levers and shock absorbers of suspensions (sheet s5, 18 pairs);
13 - saddle mounting bracket (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);
14 - upper cross connection (pipe d20x2.8);
15 - lower cross connection (pipe d20x2.8.2 pcs.);
16 - radiator support (pipe d25x3.2 cut in half lengthwise, 2 pcs.);
17 - front console of the steps (pipe d20x2);
18 - rear console of the steps (pipe d20x2);
19 - connection of the front and rear consoles of the steps (pipe d20x2);
20 - footrest cross member (sheet s5, 4 pcs.);
21 - lug for fastening a fiberglass body kit (sheet s5, set)
Wheel suspension - independent, on two triangular transverse levers each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). The levers are welded from round tubes of VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car "Oka" (rear). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers - from the VAZ-2109 car. Both of them had to be improved. I installed wheel studs from the Niva in the hubs, and home-made swing arms in the front fists.
Silencer - self-made, two-section. To protect against temperature warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.
ATV body kit - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for the implementation of the relevant work. But as it turned out - this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.
Wheel suspension arms
(a - upper arm of the front suspension; b - lower arm of the front suspension; c - lower arm of the rear suspension; d - upper arm of the rear suspension; all parts, except those noted specifically, are made of VGT-20 pipe):
1 - beam (2 pcs.);
2 - cross member;
3 - bushing (pipe d37x32, 2 pcs.);
4 - shock absorber mounting eye (steel, sheet s3);
5 - ball joint (from the steering rod of the Zhiguli car)
First, I made the required body kit contours from a steel square pipe with a section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe easily bends even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be possible to cut off the “tacks” without difficulty. Then he bent the “wings” from hardboard (fibreboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend turned out to be steep, he attached separate strips from the same hardboard. The front end was removed with expanded polystyrene purchased at a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene foam or the same mounting foam, but polystyrene foam turned out to be a more suitable material - it is well cut with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a common structure on a mounting foam.
Steering column assembly:
1 - steering shaft (pipe d20x2.8);
2 - steering wheel connection plate (steel, sheet s6);
3 - brace of the plate (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);
4 - detachable bracket-sleeve of the steering shaft (kapron, sheet s18);
5 - support washer (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);
6 - bipod (steel, sheet 18);
7 - steering limiter (steel, sheet s6);
8 - bearing housing;
9 - thrust tip (steel, circle 15);
10 - thrust bearing
Falshbak - complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of the hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill the place intended for it with layers of mounting foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise the thick volume of foam may not dry inside. Filled in until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse-grained sandpaper. 
Under the dashboard, a part of the Oka dashboard went into action. I fixed it on the blank, too, with the help of mounting foam. Since the foam is large-pored, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to correspond to the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the block, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, then plastering and painting the block could be neglected.
