Modifications Ford Focus I
Ford Focus I 1.4MT
Ford Focus I 1.6MT 98hp
Ford Focus I 1.6MT 100hp
Ford Focus I 1.6AT 100hp
Ford Focus I 1.8MT
Ford Focus I 1.8 TDi MT 75 hp
Ford Focus I 1.8 TDi MT 90 hp
Ford Focus I 1.8 TDCi MT 101 hp
Ford Focus I 1.8 TDCi MT 115 hp
Ford Focus I 2.0MT
Ford Focus I 2.0AT
Odnoklassniki Ford Focus I by price
Unfortunately, this model has no classmates...
Ford Focus I Owner Reviews
Ford Focus I, 2000
The car was originally chosen for the driver and one passenger. Therefore, the choice fell on a 3-door hatchback - the doors are large, no one will climb in from behind without asking. So, in the city, the 1.6 engine, combined with the “automatic”, no matter how scary, did not disappoint at all. At average speed movement (according to the computer) in 30 km 100 hp more than enough. And with the calm style of acceleration of most drivers, it is not difficult to leave among the first from a traffic light. At the same time, the Ford Focus I is perfectly controlled, the steering wheel has a clear feedback. Clear steering is complemented by effective brakes (even with rear drums) and ABS (definitely recommend), which works on time.
In short, Ford engineers don't get their money for nothing. A barrel of honey turned out, but you have to add a small fly in the ointment. So, from the minuses, I’ll note, I’ll note: when the air conditioner is on, the consumption in the city grows to 12 liters. And yet - there are a lot of them. You leave the entrance - and, without leaving the place, you can count 5 pieces in the yard. But the machine is liquid and the secondary price is very pleasant. So, the conclusion: if you are not worried about imaginary prestige, but quality and reliability are important, take the Ford Focus I. If the budget is important to you, do not pay for options that are again supposedly prestigious but not needed (climate control).
Advantages : handling, reliability, ergonomics
disadvantages : increased price. Mass character.
Vladislav, Moscow
Ford Focus I, 2000
Ford Focus I - the car is quite comfortable and pleasant. The landing is close to ideal, the driver's seat is adjustable in height, the steering wheel in height and reach, you can choose the right position. I would describe the landing as "normal". The view is good, the mirrors are spherical, but the distortion is not strong, the neighboring row is visible, but through the row the view is no longer enough, aspherical (more curved at the edges) mirrors would not interfere. Established glass - athermal. The dipped-beam bulbs constantly burned out, they shrugged at the service, nothing was found on the forums either. You can change the right one without problems, but to change the left one, you need to remove the battery, the box from it. The first time I did it, it took an hour, probably.
The engine always started without problems, consumption in the city of 10 liters. It should be noted that this 1.6 8-valve, unlike the 16 valve, “eats” only 92 gasoline. Instead of a timing belt - a chain, serviced at 150 t.km. The network writes that this modification is more reliable than the 16-valve one, I can’t comment on this in any way. At 70,000 km, it began to start badly, at some point it refused flatly, changed the candles, cleaned the throttle and everything is fine. Very pleased with the combination of engine and gearbox. The set of speed is very uniform, without dips and accelerations out of place. The dynamics is sufficient for the city, but in general it is rather weak, competitors at "1.6" will be faster.
Advantages : comfort, design, handling, price.
disadvantages : dynamics.
Valery, St. Petersburg
Ford Focus I, 2002
I bought the car from my friend, whose wife successfully drove it in the "home - Kindergarten– Shop” for a little less than 3 years. Actually, in part, that is why the choice fell on this car, because. I knew its history and mode of operation very well. What I liked: I have the so-called “winter” package installed, and this, I want to note, is one of the most useful features in our conditions. And although I keep my Ford Focus I in a heated underground parking lot and I don’t experience problems with the morning plant, nevertheless, sometimes it’s nice to start a car in a frosty winter, turn on the windshield heating, rear window and mirrors (the washer nozzles are also heated), sit in the heated seats, and after 2-3 minutes you can hit the road. Everything thaws and drains very quickly. No need to scrape glass in the cold.
Reliability: no surprises happened during the operation. It is difficult to say whose merit is here. I just regularly went through all the MOT, changed the oil and those. liquids, etc. Ford Focus I, due to the fact that maintenance is relatively inexpensive, makes it possible not to save on this. 65 thousand had to change the clutch. Usually, as far as I know from experience, this spare part “runs” much longer, about 100 thousand, no less. But in my case, apparently, the driving style of the predecessor affected. Although she drove carefully, I still think she “set fire” to the clutch - probably, she waited at the traffic lights at the clutch, but started off with too much gas. In general, I had to change, transmission slippage began to be felt when starting off.
Manageability: I will be brief here, everyone knows this. Focus is one of the best in this category in its class. Still, heaped up "thruster" rear suspension and a properly designed front do the trick!
The biggest problem I've had with a Ford Focus I was replacing the left low beam bulb. The fact is that without removing the battery and the platform on which it is installed, it is simply impossible to get to the cover of the block headlight. You really need to work with the keys. For girls, this operation will be practically impossible without a trip to the service
Advantages : reliable, comfortable, unpretentious. Excellent handling. Inexpensive to maintain.
disadvantages : noisy on the highway.
Edward, Moscow
Ford Focus I, 2005
For those who want to take the Ford Focus I. MOT every 10 thousand km. Oil original 1400 rub. 5 liters. Oil filter from 350 rubles. Work on Bosch 400 rubles. Then we look at what needs to be changed or what the master will say, if you only believe him, otherwise they can wind it up. Brake pads not original from 900 rubles. (I put these, skated normally). The rear pads of the Ford Focus I go for a very long time, I did not change them and the previous owner did too. We immediately change the timing belt (it is very easy to twist the mileage on Ford), the replacement price is 3500 rubles. and my head doesn't hurt. Candles are also a budget of 200 rubles. a piece. In terms of chassis, everything is also budgetary, except for the rear linkage suspension - its replacement costs 20 thousand rubles. along with work, but she walks for a long time about 100 thousand km. The Ford Focus I thermostat is a weak point. Sometimes even less than 20 thousand km lives. I was changed under warranty (I took used cars in the salon), although they did not pay for the tow truck. LKP - weak spots trunk and doors. Chips are better to paint over immediately. Salon - for people of average height there will be enough space both in front and behind. With my height of 194, my back was numb on the "long distance". It’s better not to take a car with climate control, with age it begins to “be weird” (and the age is decent anyway), they only repair it at official dealers, and you know what the price tag is. The car loses power when the air conditioner is on significantly. So when overtaking it is better to turn it off. Engine 1.8 115 hp acceleration to 100 km - 10.7 sec. In its class (cars made before 2005 and in the price category) there was no equal Ford Focus I. In the city, you have enough power for your eyes, on the highway we confidently overtake in 3-4 gears. IN sharp turns the car enters confidently. The car provokes aggressive driving, so do not skimp and put good tires. On the highway 150 is confident, faster is possible, but not necessary. When you raise the speed, the engine does not squeal, but growls in a bass voice, as it should be. In terms of fuel consumption - city 11, if we heat 13-14. Route from 7 to 9. Gasoline 95th. If found a good option, then you can take the machine, spare parts are inexpensive and the masters know it by heart.
Advantages : inexpensive to maintain. Reliability. Comfort. Equipment. Encourages active driving.
disadvantages : climate control.
Oleg, St. Petersburg
Ford Focus I, 2003
I bought a Ford Focus I with 71,000 km on it. I am the third owner. I chose "Karisma", but there were all "killed". They were already leaving the dealer, as he suggested looking into the garage where the Ford Focus I was standing. The man looked under the hood, looked, sniffed, turned on the gas and said: "take it, only the bumper was painted, the rest is ideal." I drove to the club service. Suspension diagnostics, oil changed, consumables. As a result of the recommendation, the ignition coil cracked (it is possible to drive, but it is dangerous, the “brains” can burn out), and on the rear suspension, the replacement of silent blocks of trailing arms after 10-20 thousand km. Outwardly, I didn’t really like the Ford Focus I, of course, a pretty muzzle and clumsy stern, but now I’m used to it. It’s convenient for me in it (I’m 190 cm), I went to the Moscow-Adler sea alone (the rest without a license). The back was not tired, only the ringing in the ears was from poor sound insulation, a walkie-talkie and a radio tape recorder. Everyone has long known about the dynamics, with its mass of 1.6 it is not enough, and if there are passengers and air conditioning, you will have to forget about overtaking. Although, if you turn 4-5 thousand revolutions, it is quite frisky. At the moment, the mileage is 140 thousand km. I travel a lot, often to "long distance" and for work a lot around the city. THAT I do every 10 thousand, because I don't want something to break along the way. Of the work done: silent blocks of trailing arms ("butterflies") about 7 thousand with work, an ignition coil (5200 rubles), a clutch master cylinder leaked (3300 rubles), a half shaft bearing 2390 rubles, levers for a spring 2990 per piece. original (sat down on a concrete slab at speed). The clutch is still native, but it seizes at the end. Decide for yourself whether it is a lot or a little for a 7-year-old Russian assembly.
Advantages : reliability. Unpretentiousness. Comfortable salon. Affordable spare parts.
disadvantages : soundproofing. Dynamics.
Alexander, Serpukhov
Ford Focus I, 2004
First impressions of the Ford Focus I - high-torque engine, despite its 1.6 and 8 valves, elastic steering. The same elastic and downed suspension, clear shifting mechanical box, excellent fit (a sick back liked it), the feeling of dimensions is just on top, despite the small mirrors. For about 30 minutes I thought about the principle by which the headlights and wipers turn on, how the hood opens. After the "Japanese" everything seemed wrong, but after traveling for three days, everything already seemed more convenient than on the same "Japanese". Of the “chips” of the configuration, we got climate control, which automatically maintains the set temperature, heating windshield, heated front seats, electric windows and electric mirrors, "sixteenth" cast wheels, steering column with adjustable tilt and reach, a remote key, and a good alarm system with auto start. Of the "jambs" that were left - a short crunch when switching to second gear, an inoperative heating of the driver's seat, still unexplored squeaks in the suspension (it does not affect handling and driving bumps in any way). Very pleased with the fuel consumption of 8-9 liters, with warm-ups and frequent stops in the city. Judging by the calculation of the mileage on poured gasoline, the Ford Focus I computer calculates the average consumption quite correctly. Not at all pleased with how the car gets dirty. He throws too much dirt on himself from puddles. On silver, of course, this is not as critical as on black, but it seems that I will appear in the sink more often than before. I can not help but note the precise handling on the road. The Ford Focus I handles beautifully both in a parking lot and on a straight road. You can just relax behind the wheel. The sounds from the street are not annoying, apparently one of the previous owners did soundproofing, but I have not yet looked to see if it really exists.
Advantages : manageability. Fuel consumption. Good dynamics.
disadvantages : gets dirty very quickly in bad weather.
Maxim, Prokopyevsk
Ford Focus I, 2005
We looked at the Ford Focus I, liked it, the paint was native without chips, the seller was adequate, without air conditioning, with a native radio and mileage of 108 thousand. Until 2012, it was serviced only by "officials", all documents were available and the mileage in mid-2012 was only 45 thousand km. There were 3 owners before me, the first 2 were pensioners, so apparently such a mileage, I decided to buy, a man gave me a Ford Focus I for 210 thousand. What can I say, I bought it and immediately drove it to a friend's service to watch the suspension, etc. they said they were lucky with the car, no one drove it, they drove carefully over bumps, the mileage was real, and the whole suspension was almost native. It was only necessary to change the rear silent blocks 8 pieces, bought the levers in the collection of 2200 rubles. for 2 pcs., German, for sickles I bought 4 purely "silent" 300 rubles. for one, the best, well, and changed the oil and all filters. The oil was filled with purely "Ford" synthetics, 2100 for 5 liters, the entire replacement cost 2500 rubles through an acquaintance. They jumped the speed when it started up to 2000 thousand, and when it started to cold, they said to clean the throttle, cleaned nothing has changed, the specialists said to change the candles, but you can’t bathe like that, they say the disease. I warm up the Ford Focus I a little and it goes well, the consumption is normal, on the highway, if you drive 90-105, 6.3-6.5 liters of 95 gasoline (it is more economical than 92, although the recommendation is 91). At work I drive all sorts of demonstration racks, the trunk is small, but when I fold the rear seats, it turns out huge and a lot of things will fit. The interior is comfortable, I drive 500 km without fatigue, it’s time to change the clutch, probably. works at the end. Suspension is relatively soft, moderately harsh. In general, in general, I am satisfied with the purchase.
Advantages : soft suspension. Comfortable salon. Reliability. Consumption.
disadvantages : insignificant.
Igor, Pavlovsk
Ford Focus is a car in the C-class segment produced by by Ford from 1998 to the present day. During its history, the car has undergone three generations in development. British magazine CAR considers it one of the 50 greatest cars of the last 50 years.
Focus is a very popular car - Europe is among the top 10 best-selling cars, and in Russia it was the best-selling foreign car in 2010, and in 2012 the best-selling car in the world.
Focus's closest competitors are cars from other brands such as Citroen C4, Hyundai Elantra, Honda Civic, Renault Fluence, Kia ceed , Opel Astra , Skoda Octavia , Toyota Corolla , Toyota Auris, Chevrolet Cruze , Mazda 3 , Lada Vesta , Mitsubishi Lancer , Nissan Almera , Peugeot 308 , Renault Fluence and Volkswagen Golf .
First generation
Ford introduced the first Focus in 1998 in Europe as a replacement for the . The first generation was produced until 2004. In 2002, a restyling was carried out, including updated headlights, bumper, grille, center console, seats and an additional set of options.Sales began in North America in October 1999 as a Christmas surprise for Ford CEO Jacques Nasser.
Focus was produced in various body modifications - 3-door hatchback, 5-door hatchback, sedan and station wagon. The transmission is available in three versions - 4-speed automatic, as well as mechanical 5-speed and 6-speed. Engines have a wide choice - petrol: 1.4, 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 liters, and also diesel in volume of 1.8 liters.
By EuroNCAP versions Focus received 4 out of 5 stars for driver and passenger safety, 2 out of 4 stars for pedestrian safety.
Second generation
On September 23, 2004, the second generation Focus was presented at the Paris Motor Show. It was produced from 2004 to 2011.The size of the car has become slightly larger, both in terms of wheelbase and overall length, width and weight. Body rigidity increased by 10%. Together with that new design suspension improved the handling of the car.
The car's safety was awarded a perfect score of 5 out of five stars for adult protection, 4 out of 5 for child protection and 2 out of 4 for pedestrian protection by EuroNCAP, outperforming competitors in this segment Opel Astra and Volkswagen Golf.
The body was produced in five versions - 3-door and 5-door hatchback, 4-door sedan, 5-door station wagon and 2-door coupe-cabriolet. The transmission is available in four variants - 4-speed automatic, 5- and 6-speed manual and 6-speed PowerShift. 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0 and 2.5 liter Duratec petrol engines and 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 liter Duratorq TDCi diesel engines.
third generation
Introduced in 2010 at the North American International Auto Show in Detroit as a 2012 model. Produced from 2011 to the present. This model has become "global", which means the change of the European second generation and the 10-year-old North American.The most interesting technical innovations are the engines of the EcoBoost SCTi family, the six-speed PowerShift preselective gearbox, steering with electric booster, side airbags, safety curtains.
The most interesting options are iPod connection via USB, active parking assistance, driver fatigue detection, low speed collision avoidance, informing about the presence of a car in the "dead" zone, lane departure warning, traffic sign recognition.
The body is made in three versions - a 5-door hatchback, a 4-door sedan and a 5-door station wagon. Engines are 1.0, 1.5, 2.0 and 2.3 liter Ecoboost gasoline, 1.6 liter Duratec Ti-VCT gasoline and 1.5, 1.6 and 2.0 liter Duratorq TDCi diesel engines. The transmission can be mechanical or robotic PowerShift.
Feature Table Focus
| Generation | years | Engines | Modifications | Dimensions |
| First | 1998-2004 | 1.4 Zetec-SE (74 hp) 1.6 Zetec-SE (100 hp) 1.6 Zetec-Rocam (109 hp) 1.8 Zetec-E (113 hp) 2.0 Zetec-SE (128 hp) 2.0 Duratec HE (146 hp) 2.0 Duratec ST (171 HP) 2.0 T Duratec RS (212 hp) 1.8 TDDI (89 hp) 1.8 TDCi (114 hp) |
hatchback | Wheelbase: 2615 mm Length: 4175 mm Width: 1700 mm Height: 1440 mm |
| Sedan | Wheelbase: 2615 mm Length: 4380 mm Width: 1700 mm Height: 1440 mm |
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| station wagon | Wheelbase: 2615 mm Length: 4455 mm Width: 1700 mm Height: 1460 mm |
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| Second | 2004-2011 | 1.4 Duratec (79 hp) 1.6 Duratec (99 HP) 1.6 Ti-VCT Duratec (113 hp) 1.8 Duratec HE (123 hp) 2.0 Duratec HE (143 hp) 2.5 Duratec ST (222 hp) 2.5 Duratec RS (301 hp) 2.5 Duratec RS500 (345 HP) 1.6 Duratorq TDCi (89 hp) 1.6 Duratorq TDCi (99 hp) 1.6 Duratorq TDCi (108 hp) 1.8 Duratorq TDCi (113 hp) 2.0 Duratorq TDCi (109 hp) 2.0 Duratorq TDCi (134 hp) |
hatchback | Wheelbase: 2640 mm Length: 4340 mm Width: 1840 mm Height: 1500 mm |
| Sedan | Wheelbase: 2640 mm Length: 4480 mm Width: 1840 mm Height: 1495 mm |
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| station wagon | Wheelbase: 2640 mm Length: 4470 mm Width: 1840 mm Height: 1500 mm |
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| coupe-cabriolet | Wheelbase: 2640 mm Length: 4510 mm Width: 1835 mm Height: 1448 mm |
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| Third | 2011-... | 1.0 Ecoboost (99 hp) 1.0 Ecoboost (123 hp) 1.6 Ti-VCT Duratec (84 hp) 1.6 Ti-VCT Duratec (104 hp) 1.6 Ti-VCT Duratec (123 hp) 1.6 Ecoboost (148 hp) 1.6 Ecoboost (180 hp) 2.0 Ecoboost (247 hp) 1.6 Duratorq (94 hp) 1.6 Duratorq (113 hp) 1.6 Duratorq ECOnetic (104 hp) 2.0 Duratorq (113 hp) 2.0 Duratorq (138 hp) 2.0 Duratorq (161 hp) |
hatchback | Wheelbase: 2648 mm Length: 4358 mm Width: 1823 mm Height: 1484 mm |
| Sedan | Wheelbase: 2648 mm Length: 4534 mm Width: 1823 mm Height: 1484 mm |
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| station wagon | Wheelbase: 2648 mm Length: 4556 mm Width: 1823 mm Height: 1505 mm |
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Ford Focus 1. The main malfunctions of the car - part 1
LOWER COOLANT LEVEL IN THE EXPANSION TANK
| Diagnostics | Elimination Methods | |
|---|---|---|
| Damage to the radiator, expansion tank, hoses, weakening of their fit on the nozzles | Inspection. The tightness of radiators (engine and heater) is checked in a water bath with compressed air at a pressure of 1 bar | Replace damaged parts |
| Fluid leakage through the coolant pump seal | Inspection | Replace pump |
| Cylinder head gasket damaged. Block or cylinder head defect | The oil level indicator shows an emulsion with a whitish tint. There may be abundant white smoke from the muffler and oil stains on the surface of the coolant (in the expansion tank). Coolant leaks on the outer surface of the engine | Replace damaged parts. Do not use water in the cooling system, fill in coolant suitable for climatic conditions |
ANOTHER NOISES AND KNOCKS IN THE ENGINE
| Scroll possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Check clearances | Adjust gaps | |
| Repair the engine | ||
| worn out toothed belt timing gear drive. Faulty drive idler or support rollers | Inspection | Replace belt. Replace defective timing idler or idler rollers |
| Wear of bearings and camshaft cams, connecting rod and main bearings crankshaft, pistons, piston pins, play or seizing in the bearings of the generator, coolant pumps and power steering | Examination | Repair or replacement of parts |
| Lost elasticity or collapsed one or more supports of the power unit | Inspection | Replace support |
| Low pressure in the oil line (at minimum idle speed, the pressure in the lubrication system of a warm engine must be at least 1.0 bar) | Check the pressure in the lubrication system. You can measure the pressure by connecting a pressure gauge to the oil line by unscrewing the oil pressure sensor | Troubleshoot the lubrication system |
| Wear of the oil pump drive chain | Checking the chain tension after removing the oil pan | Replace oil pump drive chain |
STRONG ENGINE VIBRATION
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Uneven compression across the cylinders more than 2.0 bar: gaps in the valve drive are not adjusted, wear or damage to valves, seats; wear, sticking or breakage of piston rings | We check the compression. Compression must be at least 11.0 bar | |
| Using an ohmmeter, check for an open or “breakdown” of the ignition coil windings and high-voltage wires | Replace faulty ignition coil, damaged high voltage wires. Under severe operating conditions (salt on the roads, frost alternating with thaws), it is advisable to replace the wires every 3 to 5 years | |
| The high voltage wires are connected to the ignition coil in the wrong order; one or more wires are disconnected | Inspection | Connect the wires in accordance with the markings on the ignition coil |
| Check candles | Replace defective spark plugs | |
| Open or short circuit in the windings of the injectors or their circuits | Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter | |
| The support of the power unit has lost elasticity or collapsed, their fastening has weakened | Inspection | Replace supports, tighten fasteners |
INCREASED CONTENT OF HARMFUL SUBSTANCES IN EXHAUST GASES
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Nozzles are leaking (overflow) or their nozzles are dirty | Check the tightness and shape of the nozzle spray pattern | Dirty nozzles can be washed on a special stand. Replace leaky or heavily soiled injectors. |
| Damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits - interruptions in sparking | For check high voltage wires and replace the ignition coils with known good ones. | Replace faulty ignition coil, damaged high voltage wires. In severe operating conditions (salt on the roads, frost alternating with thaws), it is advisable to replace the wires every 3-5 years |
| Defective spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the thermal cone, poor contact of the center electrode | Check candles | Replace defective spark plugs |
| Faulty air temperature sensor in the intake manifold or its circuit | Tester check the sensor | |
| Faulty coolant temperature sensor | Replace defective sensor | |
| Check the position sensor throttle valve | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor | |
| Faulty oxygen concentration sensor or circuit | You can evaluate the performance of the oxygen concentration sensor and the reliability of the connections of its electrical circuits using diagnostic equipment | |
| Faulty absolute air pressure sensor and its circuit | You can check the health of the absolute air pressure sensor using diagnostic equipment | Restore contacts in electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor |
| Faulty computer or its circuits | Restore contacts in electrical circuits. Replace faulty ECU | |
| Leakage of the exhaust system in the area between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe | Inspection at medium speeds of the crankshaft | Replace defective gasket, tighten threaded connections |
| Faulty catalytic converter | Check serviceability catalytic converter exhaust gases can be used with diagnostic equipment | Replace catalytic converter |
| Increased pressure in fuel system due to a faulty pressure regulator | Inspection, checking with a manometer the pressure in the fuel system (no more than 3.5 bar) at idle | |
| Increased resistance to air flow in the intake tract | Check element air filter, intake tract (no foreign objects, leaves, etc.) | Clean the intake tract, replace the dirty air filter element |
| Entry of large amounts of oil into the combustion chambers of the engine due to wear or damage to valve stem seals, valve stems, valve guides, piston rings, pistons and cylinders | Inspection after engine disassembly | Repair the engine |
Clutch does not fully engage (slips)
| Pads of a conducted disk are strongly worn out | Replace driven disk |
| Lubrication of the flywheel, drive plate, friction linings | Rinse the driven and driving discs with white spirit or gasoline, wipe the working surfaces of the discs and flywheel. Eliminate the cause of oiling (replace oil seals) |
| Drive disk failure | Replace driven disk |
| Faulty drive plate diaphragm spring |
Clutch won't disengage (drives)
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Air in hydraulic clutch release | Bleed the hydraulic clutch release |
| Distortion or distortion of the driven disk | Replace driven disk |
| Wear of the petals of the diaphragm spring at the point of contact with release bearing | Replace Drive Disc Assembly |
| Jamming of the hub of the driven disk on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox | Inspect the splines, if the hub is significantly damaged, replace the driven disk. Before assembly, apply SHRUS-4 grease to the splines of the gearbox shaft |
| The driven disk is “glued” to the flywheel or the drive disk (after a long stop) | Chock the wheels, engage first gear and apply the parking brake. While depressing the brake and clutch pedals at the same time, turn the engine crankshaft with the starter |
Clutch pedal "fails" or is pressed very easily
Jerks when starting
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Oiling the working surfaces of the friction linings of the driven disk | Remove the driven and driving discs, wash the parts with white spirit or gasoline, wipe the working surfaces of the discs and flywheel. Eliminate the cause of oiling (replace the oil seal of the gearbox or engine) |
| The friction linings of the driven disk are badly worn | Replace driven disk |
| Settlement or breakage of the springs of the damper of torsional vibrations, wear of the driven disk | Replace driven disk |
| Deformation of the driven disk | Replace driven disk |
| Loss of elasticity of springs of a conducted disk | Replace driven disk |
| Jamming of the driven disk on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox, severe wear of the splines of the disk hub | In case of severe wear of the splines of the hub, replace the driven disk. Apply SHRUS-4 grease to the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox |
| Clutch diaphragm spring failure | Replace Drive Disc Assembly |
| Faulty powertrain mounts | Inspect supports, replace faulty ones |
Noise when disengaging or engaging the clutch
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Worn clutch pedal bushings | Remove the pedal, replace the bushings of its axis |
| Strong draft, breakage of the springs of the damper of torsional vibrations | Replace driven disk |
| Loose fastening or breakage of the friction linings of the driven disk | Replace driven disk |
| Severe wear or damage to the clutch release bearing | Replace the bearing assembly with the working cylinder |
Noise in the gearbox (noise disappears when the clutch is released)
Noise in the gearbox (noise when driving in a certain gear)
Transmissions are hard to turn on
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Faulty clutch | Carry out troubleshooting with clinging |
| Defective (broken, frayed, stuck in sheath) select cable or shift cable | Replace defective cable |
| Replace mechanism | |
| Worn or damaged gear shift mechanism | |
| Worn gear synchronizers | Repair or replace gearbox |
Transmission randomly turns off
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Gearshift mechanism worn out | Repair or replace gearbox |
| Worn or damaged gearbox control mechanism | Carry out troubleshooting "Transmissions are difficult to turn on" |
| Worn gearbox synchronizer gear clutches | Repair or replace gearbox |
Oil leak from the box
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Worn input shaft seals, gearshift or wheel drive shafts | Replace defective seal |
| Oil leakage through crankcase joints | Repair the gearbox |
| Oil leakage through the sensor reversing and vehicle speed sensor | Install the reverse sensor on the sealant. Replace speed sensor rubber o-rings |
Automatic transmission fluid leak
| Possible causes of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Transmission fluid leaking through oil pan seal | Fluid leaks on the gearbox housing. Tighten the sump fixing screws, replace the sump gasket |
| Fluid leak from under the level indicator | Insert the pointer all the way, replace it if necessary |
| Fluid leaking from coolant fittings | Tighten fittings |
ENGINE DOES NOT DEVELOP FULL POWER
THE VEHICLE DOES NOT HAVE SUFFICIENT DRIVE. JERKS AND DISPENSES DURING MOVEMENT
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Inspect the exhaust system for dented and damaged pipes, check the condition of the catalytic converter (back pressure) (SRT) | ||
| Intake of foreign air into the intake tract | Inspect the joints, check the fit of the throttle assembly, absolute pressure and air temperature sensors. Switch off for a short time vacuum booster brakes by plugging the inlet pipe fitting | Replace gaskets, O-rings, parts with deformed flanges, faulty vacuum booster |
| Incomplete throttle opening | Determined visually on a stopped engine | Adjust throttle actuator |
| Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11.0 bar): wear or damage to valves, their guide bushings and seats, occurrence or breakage of piston rings | Check compression | Replace defective parts |
| The gaps between the electrodes of the candles do not correspond to the norm | Check clearances | By bending the side electrode, set the desired gap or replace the candles |
| Strong soot on the electrodes of the spark plugs; ingress of soot particles into the gap between the electrodes | Inspection | Check and replace spark plugs if necessary |
| Damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits | Replace damaged ignition coil, high voltage wires | |
| There is not enough fuel in the tank | According to the level indicator and fuel reserve indicator | Top up fuel |
| The fuel filter is clogged, the water that has entered the power system has frozen, the fuel pipes are deformed | Check the pressure in the fuel system | Replace fuel filter. In winter, put the car in warm garage, blow out the fuel lines. Replace defective hoses and tubes |
| The fuel pump does not create the necessary pressure in the system | Check the pressure in the fuel system, make sure the strainer of the fuel module is clean | Clean the fuel module strainer. Faulty fuel pump, pressure regulator replace |
| Poor contact in the fuel pump power circuit (including ground wires) | Checked with an ohmmeter | Strip contacts, crimp wire lugs, replace faulty wires |
| Faulty injectors or their circuits | Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter (no open circuit or short circuit) | Replace faulty injectors, ensure contact in electrical circuits |
| Faulty air temperature sensor or its circuit | Check the sensor and its circuits | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Faulty absolute air pressure sensor or its circuit | You can evaluate the performance of the absolute air pressure sensor using diagnostic equipment at the service station | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Repair damaged electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor | ||
| Faulty computer or its circuits | To check the ECU, replace it with a known good one. | Replace faulty ECU |
| Valve clearance not adjusted | ||
| Strong wear of the camshaft cams | Inspection when disassembling the engine at the service station | Replace a worn camshaft at a service station |
| Sediment or broken valve springs | Inspection during engine disassembly | |
| Faulty throttle position sensor or circuit | Check Throttle Position Sensor | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Faulty coolant temperature sensor | Check the resistance of the sensor with a tester at different temperatures | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
POP IN THE INLET LINE
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Valve clearance not adjusted | Check valve clearances | Adjust valve clearances |
| Inlet valves sticking in the guide bushings: gum deposits on the surface of the valve stem or bushing, sediment or broken valve springs | Inspection during engine disassembly (SRT) | Repair the engine (SRT) |
| Valve timing broken | Check valve timing | Set the correct relative position of the crankshaft and camshaft. Check compression |
SHOTS IN THE SILENCER
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Valve clearance not adjusted | Check valve clearances | Adjust valve clearances |
| Exhaust valves sticking in bushings: increased wear of the valve stem or bushing, sediment or broken valve springs | Inspection during engine disassembly | Repair the engine at the service station |
| Valve timing broken | Check valve timing | Set the correct relative position of the shafts. Check compression |
| Candles are checked at a special stand (SRT). The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude that it is working | Replace spark plugs | |
| Damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits - interruptions in sparking | Using an ohmmeter, check for an open or “breakdown” (short to ground) of the ignition coil windings, high-voltage wires | Replace the faulty ignition coil, damaged high-voltage wires (when disconnecting the wire, pull on its tip). In severe operating conditions, it is advisable to replace the wires every 3-5 years |
| Faulty injectors | Check the operation of the injectors |
INCREASED OIL CONSUMPTION (OVER 500 G PER 1000 KM)
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Oil leakage through: crankshaft and camshaft seals; gaskets of the oil pan, cylinder head; oil pressure sensor; oil filter sealing ring | Wash the engine, then after a short run inspect for possible leaks | Tighten the fastening elements of the cylinder head, cylinder head cover, oil pan, replace worn oil seals and gaskets |
| Wear, loss of elasticity of oil seals (valve seals). Wear of valve stems, guide bushings | Inspection of parts when disassembling the engine | Replace worn parts |
| Wear, breakage or coking (loss of mobility) of piston rings. Wear of pistons, cylinders | Inspection and measurement of parts after engine disassembly | Replace worn pistons and rings. Boring and honing cylinders |
| Use of oil of the wrong viscosity | - | Change oil |
| Clogged crankcase ventilation system | Inspection | Clean the ventilation system |
INCREASED FUEL CONSUMPTION
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Clogged air filter element | Check the condition of the air filter element | Blow out or replace the air filter element |
| Leakage of the power system | Gasoline smell, fuel leaks | Check the tightness of the connections of the fuel system elements; if a malfunction is found, replace the corresponding components |
| Faulty spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the thermal cone, poor contact of the central electrode | Candles are checked on a special stand at the service station. The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude that it is working | Replace spark plugs |
| Throttle Actuator Malfunction | Check the stroke of the “gas” pedal, the gap in the drive (free play of the pedal), make sure that the cable and pedal are not jammed | Replace defective parts, lubricate the cable with engine oil |
| Faulty regulator idle move or his chains | Substitute a known-good regulator. | Replace failed regulator |
| Throttle not fully closing | The gap between the throttle valve and the walls of the housing is visible through the light | Replace Throttle Assembly |
| Increased pressure in the fuel line due to a malfunction of the pressure regulator | Check the pressure in the fuel system with a pressure gauge (no more than 3.5 bar) | Replace failed regulator |
| Nozzle leakage | Check injectors | Replace faulty injectors |
| Faulty coolant temperature sensor or circuit | Check the resistance of the sensor with an ohmmeter at different temperatures | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Faulty oxygen concentration sensor | You can evaluate the performance of the oxygen concentration sensor and the reliability of the connections of its electrical circuits using diagnostic equipment at the service station | Repair damaged electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Faulty computer or its circuits | Substitute a known-good ECU to test. | Replace faulty ECU, repair damaged electrical circuits |
| Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11.0 bar): gaps in the drive are not adjusted, wear or damage to valves, their guide bushings and seats, occurrence or breakage of piston rings | Check compression | Adjust valve clearances. Replace defective parts |
| Faulty throttle position sensor, absolute pressure and air temperature sensors in the intake manifold or their circuits | Check sensors and their circuits | Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor (sensors) |
| Increased resistance to the movement of gases in the exhaust system | Inspect the exhaust system for dented and damaged pipes, check the condition of the catalytic converter | Replace damaged exhaust system components |
| Malfunctions of the running gear and brake system | Check chassis components and brake system | Adjust the wheel alignment, replace the faulty parts of the chassis, repair the brake system |
ENGINE KNOCKING (HIGH-STROKE METALLIC KNOCKS, GENERALLY OCCURRED WHEN THE ENGINE IS WORKING UNDER LOAD, ESPECIALLY AT LOW RPM, FOR EXAMPLE, LOAD ACCELERATION, ETC., AND DISAPPEARING WHEN THE LOAD REDUCES)
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| - | ||
| Engine overheating | According to the coolant temperature gauge | Eliminate the cause of overheating ( "The engine gets very hot") |
| Inspection after removal of the cylinder head | Eliminate the cause of carbon formation ( Carry out troubleshooting "Increased fuel consumption" ,"Increased oil consumption"). Use oils of the recommended viscosity and low ash content if possible. | |
| Using spark plugs with the wrong glow rating | - | Use spark plugs recommended by the manufacturer |
INSUFFICIENT OIL PRESSURE (LOW OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL ON)
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Little oil in the engine | According to the oil level indicator | Add oil |
| out of order oil filter | Substitute a filter with a known good one. | Replace defective oil filter |
| Loose tightening of drive pulley bolt auxiliary units | Check bolt tightness | Tighten bolt to specified torque |
| Clogging of the oil receiver screen | Inspection | clear the grid |
| Misaligned, clogged oil pump relief valve or weakened valve spring | Inspection when disassembling the oil pump | Clean or replace faulty relief valve. Replace pump |
| Oil pump gear wear | Replace oil pump | |
| Excessive clearance between bearing shells and crankshaft journals | It is determined by measuring parts after disassembling the oil pump (at the service station) | Replace worn liners. Replace or repair crankshaft if necessary |
| Faulty sensor insufficient pressure oils | We unscrew the low oil pressure sensor from the hole in the cylinder head and install a known-good sensor instead. If at the same time the indicator goes out while the engine is running, the inverted sensor is faulty | Replace faulty low oil pressure sensor |
ENGINE OVERHEATS (ENGINE OVERHEAT LIGHT ON)
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| Faulty thermostat | Check the thermostat | Replace defective thermostat |
| Insufficient amount of coolant | The fluid level is below the "MIN" mark on expansion tank | Eliminate leaks. Add coolant |
| A lot of scale in the cooling system | - | Flush the cooling system with a descaling agent. Do not use hard water in the cooling system. Dilute concentrated antifreeze only with distilled water. |
| Radiator cells dirty | Inspection | Flush the radiator with a high pressure water jet |
| Faulty coolant pump | Remove the pump and inspect the assembly | Replace pump assembly |
| Cooling fan does not turn on | Check fan circuits | Restore contact in electrical circuits. Faulty fuse, relay, cooling fan, temperature sensor, ECU - replace |
| Unacceptably low octane number of gasoline | - | Fill your car with fuel recommended by the manufacturer |
| A lot of carbon deposits in the combustion chambers, on the bottoms of the pistons, valve plates | Inspection after removing the engine cylinder head | Eliminate the cause of carbon formation (see. "Increased fuel consumption" ,"Increased oil consumption"). Use recommended viscosity oil with low ash content if possible. |
| Breakthrough of exhaust gases into the cooling system through a damaged cylinder head gasket | The expansion tank smells of exhaust gases and bubbles pop up | Replace the cylinder head gasket. Check for flatness of the cylinder head |
ENGINE COOLING FAN IS CONSTANTLY RUNNING (EVEN ON A COLD ENGINE)
| List of possible faults | Diagnostics | Elimination Methods |
|---|---|---|
| An open in the coolant temperature sensor or its circuit | The sensor and circuits are checked with an ohmmeter | Restore contact in electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor |
| Fan relay contacts not opening | Check by tester | Replace faulty relay |
| Faulty computer or its circuits | Check the ECU or substitute with a known good one | Replace faulty ECU |
The 1st generation Ford Focus hatchback celebrated its world premiere at the 1998 Geneva Motor Show along with the three-volume model. On the assembly line, the car lasted until 2004, having previously survived the planned modernization in 2002.
The appearance of the Focus in the hatchback body is tailored in the New Edge style, and, in fact, it is completely identical to the sedan up to the line of the rear windows (this applies to the five-door version, the three-door has some differences). But due to the layout of the rear, a more dynamic and holistic look is created, in which the sharp corners and soft lines, although the former still prevail.
The first generation Ford Focus hatchback was available in three- and five-door solutions. The length of the car is 4152 mm, width - 1698-1702 mm, height - 1430-1460 mm, wheelbase- 2615 mm. From the bottom to the roadway, it has 170 mm (clearance).
The interior of the "Focus" hatchback in architecture and design does not differ from the interior decoration of the three-volume model: informative dashboard, an original center console with a large number of complex lines and a logical placement of the main controls, solid finishing materials and a high-quality level of performance.
On the 1st generation Ford Focus hatchback, seats with an optimal profile and sufficient ranges of settings are installed. The rear sofa can easily accommodate three adult passengers, but there is not much space in the legs.
For luggage transportation, the five-door Focus has a 396-liter cargo compartment, while the three-door model has 46 liters less. Folding separately the backrest of the second row of seats, the usable volume increases to 1200 liters. underground spare wheel full size and a set of necessary tools.
For Ford hatchback Focus first generations, four gasoline and two diesel engines were installed. The gasoline line is formed by engines of the Zetec series with a volume of 1.4 to 2.0 liters, which have at their disposal from 75 to 130 Horse power power and from 123 to 183 Nm of torque. A turbocharged diesel with a volume of 2.0 liters generates 90 forces and 200 Nm of peak thrust, and its more powerful version - 26 "horses" and 50 Nm more. In tandem, the units were offered a 5-speed "mechanics" or a 4-speed "automatic".
In all technical parameters, the Focus in the hatchback body is identical to the sedan: Ford C170 platform, fully independent suspension (MacPherson struts and multi-link are used in front and rear, respectively), power steering, brake system with ventilated discs on the front wheels and drums on the rear (in expensive versions - with discs).
On the secondary market In Russia, it is possible to become the owner of the first generation Ford Focus hatchback in 2015 at a price of 150,000 to 250,000 rubles, and the specific cost depends heavily on the technical condition of the car, its year of manufacture and equipment level.
For the first time, a wide range of motorists managed to see the Ford Focus 1 at the Geneva Motor Show back in 1998. We can safely say that it was from that moment that the era of the Ford Escort model, which was rather outdated at that time, ended, which Ford itself proposed to replace. new focus. True, there is an opinion that the Ghia concept car, presented by Ford Motor Company back in 1991 at the same Geneva Motor Show, was the prototype of the Focus. The 1998 Focus model had some design elements that were used in the concept car to present safety systems.
Be that as it may, looking ahead a little, it should be noted that the “change of generations” was more than successful, since the ford focus 1 managed to significantly overtake its predecessor in terms of popularity around the world in a relatively short period of time. Having appeared on the roads of Europe in 1998, already in 2002 he managed to successfully reach Australia. In 2001 - 2002, Ford Focus became the sales leader in automotive market Europe. True, even earlier, in 1999, the Ford Focus 1 American became the “Car of the Year in Europe”. In addition, in 1999 the car was awarded by the European Committee for Independent Crash Testing (Euro NCAP), which awarded four stars out of five possible for the overall passive safety the driver and passengers, as well as two out of four possible stars, the car received for pedestrian safety.
Surprisingly, this car became the "Car of the Year in the USA" a year later, in 2000. Already at that time, the company offered almost the entire range model range, starting with a three- and five-door hatchback and ending with the Ford Focus 1 station wagon option - Focus Turnier.
Focus 1: New Edge style exterior
One of possible causes increased customer interest in the new model famous brand, probably, is a number of innovations, both in terms of design and technical equipment of the car. In the exterior design, the designers continued the new philosophical concept of the company's new style - New Edge, or "New Edge". As a matter of fact, the designers had already carried out a “reconnaissance” a little earlier regarding the level of perception of this style by buyers, embodying it in the Ford Ka (1996) and Ford Cougar (1998) models. Apparently, "intelligence" showed acceptable results, which served as a motivator for continuing work in this direction.
The appearance of the first Focus turned out to be quite stylish, but also unusual, striking the imagination with a harmonious combination of sharp corners of the body with smooth, streamlined lines. The designers managed to bring together all conceivable geometric shapes, giving a triangular shape to the turn signal lights and placing round foglight wells nearby. Ellipses, trapeziums, sharp angles, curved and wide lines... It should also be noted that the opinions of auto critics are divided on this issue. Someone did not like the frankly radical design style at all from an overabundance of wide and curved lines. Be that as it may, buyers liked the design of the car, and, as you know, the best car is the one that manages to sell.
Depending on body version new ford different overall dimensions, only the clearance was identical ( ground clearance) equal to 170 millimeters. For example, the dimensions of the Ford Focus 1 hatchback are (length x width x height): 4342 x 1840 x 1497 millimeters. Wheelbase - 2640 millimeters. The dimensions of the sedan were (length x width x height): 4362 x 1698 x 1430 millimeters, and the wheelbase was 2615 millimeters. Accordingly, the volume luggage compartment. For example, in a Ford Focus 1 sedan, the useful volume of the trunk is 490 liters, in a hatchback, the volume of the luggage compartment varied depending on the position of the back of the rear sofa - from 385 to 1247 liters.
In 2001, the first Focus was the first restyling. As a result, the bumper received a removable relief strip, the radiator grille changed. The headlights were equipped with special sensors. In addition, xenon headlights were additionally used in the head optics block, the main and auxiliary bulbs were separated.
Focus 1: "plus" for space, "minus" for finishing materials
The Focus Salon received rather conflicting assessments. On the one hand, many buyers will certainly agree with the opinion that the car is the embodiment of the most advanced traditions of European design and ergonomics at that time. The interior of the Focus 1 is more spacious than its closest competitors, allowing five passengers including the driver to comfortably accommodate. Large seats are designed for fairly tall passengers. backs rear seats can be tilted to increase the amount of luggage space. On the other hand, new car became the object of sharp criticism for the quality of finishing materials. According to these parameters, Focus lost the palm to its closest rivals - Volkswagen Golf 4 and Opel Astra. Moreover, Golf significantly exceeds Focus I in terms of price parameters.
The rest of the critics' assessments are more neutral. The instrument panel, with its oval speedometer and tachometer, stands out for its classic layout, but that doesn't stop it from looking quite avant-garde, as does the center console. The small volume of the glove box (glove box) is offset by a platform for small items, such as a mobile phone, in front of the gear lever. The seats also have small pockets.
In the basic configuration, the driver's and front passenger's seats are equipped with the simplest mechanical adjustment, traditional for those times: forward - backward and backrest angle. Other equipment includes power steering, as well as airbags for the driver and front passenger. More expensive configurations are distinguished by electric adjustment of the driver's seat in height and the possibility of installing an armrest. There is also an electrically adjustable steering column for reach and tilt.
For example, the Comfort package will please its owner with power windows for the front doors and air conditioning, central locking and remote opening of the tailgate. The Trend package is equipped with front fog lights, trunk light and leather-trimmed steering wheel. The wealthiest customers who purchase the Focus in the Ghia configuration will be able to use a complete winter kit that includes heated seats, windshield and mirrors, washer nozzles, electric adjustment of exterior mirrors, electric windows for all doors and central locking with remote control. In total, five trim levels were offered: Ambiente, Comfort, Trend, Ghia, Special Edition.
Focus 1: two pluses for handling and driving performance
At one time, the first Focus received high responses from the European press, not only for the spacious interior space and passenger comfort, but also for the technical characteristics characteristic of the Ford Focus 1 model. In particular, the unique design of the rear independent suspension. But first things first. New model from Ford Motor Company was equipped with several types of power units, among which were gasoline (from 1.4 to 2.0 liters) and diesel engines. american car by equipment power units somewhat different from its European clone.
If the "American" could have only one of the gasoline engines with a volume of 2.0 to 2.3 liters and a power of 110 - 172 horsepower with automatic transmission, then in Europe the choice was presented more widely. European Focus 1 was completed gasoline engines Zetec and Zetec-SE with 75 - 130 horsepower and volume from 1.4 to 2.0 liters, as well as diesel engine Endura TDDI 1.8 liters, offered in several power options: 75, 90 and 115 horsepower.
Somewhat later, for a rather short period (just over one year), this diesel engine was replaced by the Duratorq TDCI. It should be noted that all gasoline power units have already proved themselves positively on other Ford models, in particular, Zetec-SE engines with a volume of 1.4 and 1.6 liters were installed on Ford Fiesta and Ford Puma, 1.8 and 2.0 Zetec engines were equipped Ford Mondeo. Paired with these power units, a five-speed manual or four-speed automatic transmission could be installed.
The main highlight technical equipment became a multi-link fully independent rear suspension of the Control Blade system, which replaced the traditional torsion beam for this class of cars. The traditional MacPherson strut suspension was installed in front. This combination provided the car with excellent stability at any speed.
P.S. Instead of an epilogue
It is known that each car has its own time. The time of the European Focus 1 stopped in 2004. His American "brother" was produced before 2007. The era of the Ford Focus 2 was coming.