Homemade rear axle on an ATV. We assemble a homemade ATV from an eye car

Currently, the ATV is a popular vehicle. It is quite easy to manage, has good maneuverability and a high degree of maneuverability. However, such an all-terrain vehicle is quite expensive and not everyone can buy it. Do not be discouraged, but you can try to make it yourself. How to make an ATV with your own hands? Our recommendations will help.

If you are the owner of an old motorcycle and it is gathering dust in the garage, then do not rush to dispose of it. The Ural model is great for processing into an ATV.
The assembly of the all-terrain vehicle will consist of the following stages:

frame modification;
installation of the instrument frame;
engine installation;
suspension installation.

What is needed for work:

bridge;
shock absorbers;
apparatus for welding;
Bulgarian;
brake system;
Tie Rod;
metal profile sheet;
motorbike.

Before you start assembling, you should decide on the type of control of your homemade ATV. It can be motorcycle and steering.
The next step is to upgrade the frame by pushing the tubes of the vertical seatposts 40mm back. Next, we weld the bridge to the Ural pendulum, cut the lower fork and seatposts a little. Next to the bushings of the pendulum suspension, we weld struts made of pipes.
We shorten the bridge to make vehicle compact and more manoeuvrable. Now we do cardan shaft, which can be built from the semi-axes of the Oka.
We need square pipes 25 * 25 * 2 mm for the manufacture of the front suspension. You can borrow a Zhiguli car steering knuckles. Close attention needs to be paid brake system. It is better to purchase it separately to ensure maximum safety.
When all the main elements are assembled, you can proceed with the installation of headlights, turn signals and brake lights. We cover the ATV with a profile and prepare for painting.

ATV from the motorcycle "Izh"

The assembly of an ATV from Izh does not differ much from the assembly of an all-terrain vehicle from the Ural.

If you do not even have such a motorcycle, then you can buy it for a very nominal fee. Which will be much cheaper than buying an expensive vehicle.
The fundamental difference between the assembly of an ATV from Izh is not particularly different from the assembly of an all-terrain vehicle from the Ural.

ATV from a scooter

An excellent homemade ATV can be made from a scooter. We begin the work process with drawing up drawings that you can do yourself and slightly alter the frame. Next, install the engine. We connect the motor shaft with the gear rear axle ATV using an ordinary chain drive. We bring the controls to the frame and fix the pedals and control levers.
It is better to use components from the same scooter, but fuel tank it is better to borrow from a motorcycle. The control can be set to steering or motorcycle, whichever suits you best, the brake lever must be attached to the transmission brake on the rear axle sprocket.
For body kit we use material from old automotive equipment or fiberglass.

ATV from the car "Oka"

Breathe into an old car new life you can try to build an excellent homemade ATV out of it. It will please your whole family.
We start by studying professional drawings. We modernize the body, remove the doors and the ceiling. We use comfortable seats for comfort. Next, install the engine and muffler.
To the frame, with the help of shock absorbers and native suspensions, we attach the wheels. It is worth considering what you will need and take care of it in advance. The most important is the brake system. Do not try to save on this element. We will use the brakes from the motorcycle. The steering wheel can be installed on a motorcycle or left native. It is important to securely fasten the steering rods. The body is sheathed with metal and painted.

Children's homemade ATV

The presence of an all-terrain vehicle in families with children is even more important. There is no better gift for a child than a wonderful car made by dad. When manufacturing a children's all-terrain vehicle, we pay special attention to safety. After all, we are talking about the health and life of children.

What is needed for a children's ATV

We decide on the dimensions and appearance. The possibilities are unlimited, everything will depend only on your skills and efforts.

There is no better gift for a child than a wonderful car made by dad.

We draw up a drawing, this is easy to handle on our own. The main stage is the manufacture of the frame. For it, you can use a finished model or weld it from a square profile (25x25mm). If you make a frame with your own hands, then you need to pay due attention to the quality of the welds. We will buy new wheels, we choose them depending on the age of the child and the quality of the road surface.
Quite a wide choice of engine. An electric motor from the Volga or a scooter is suitable. We install the battery in such a way that it is not necessary to disassemble the entire structure for recharging.
After assembling all the main components, the most pleasant part of the work comes. You can use a body kit from some old and unusable model of a children's ATV, or you can use your imagination and come up with a new original author's idea.
Do-it-yourself children's ATV 4x4 saves your budget significantly, gives joy to the child, and teamwork unites the whole family.

P.S. Homemade ATVs are not easy to do with your own hands. If something didn’t work right away, think about what and where you made a mistake. Thomas Edison made 10,000 unsuccessful attempts! before he invented the electric light bulb. And you will definitely succeed.

We present the ATV of our regular author S. Pletnev from the city of Ocher, Perm Territory. Another machine built by him testifies to the increased design level and professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself...

Year of work for 3 - 4 hours after work and on weekends - and new car was ready for testing, there were only small (and I would say pleasant) improvements: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other little things.

Do-it-yourself ATV from oka

The power unit for my home-made ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid cooling. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.

Machine frame - spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipelines with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, cross members, etc.) - from VGT-20. The spars are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical one. He bent pipes on a pipe bender, "to the cold." Eyelets (pairs of ears) for attaching the levers and shock absorbers of the suspension were welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets - as the components and assemblies were mounted (in "place").

All-terrain vehicle transmission- peculiar. Although the car is all-wheel drive, but transfer box it doesn't. As you know, in the "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheels (as in a car), but to the front and rear axle s. That's just myself power unit, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal articulated shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.

The transmission is assembled from units of various domestic cars, mostly "VAZ" models. But ready-made industrial units also had to be finalized. For example, from the gearbox (from Oka), to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod also made another one - elongated, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The stem can be fixed in three positions: for engaging 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is located with right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.

Interwheel gearboxes- from the rear axles of the VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts, together with the "stockings", were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints as hinges are also used in the remaining intermediate shafts of the transmission.

low gear and no diff lock.

Steering- motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automotive type(with steering rods) - below, only simplified, without steering mechanism, with one bipod. The steering wheel was first used from a Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and installed from the Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. At the lower end it has a stroke limiter. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.

The bipod is made of steel sheet 8 mm thick in a shape resembling the letter "T". A hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made at the edge of the "rack" - a steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for ball tips of steering rods. These holes are reinforced with suitable welded washers. The lugs of the bipod are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.

ATV wheels- 15-inch, from the Chevrolet Niva car. Tires with appropriate rim size 205/70 (width/height as a percentage of width) with off-road tread pattern. The running diameter of the wheel is about 660 mm.

Wheel suspension - independent, on two triangular transverse levers each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). The levers are welded from round tubes of VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car " Oka» (rear). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers - from the VAZ-2109 car. Both of them had to be improved. I installed wheel studs from the Niva in the hubs, and home-made swing arms in the front fists.

Silencer - self-made, two-section. To protect against temperature warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.

Do-it-yourself body kit for an ATV

ATV body kit with their own hands - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for the implementation of the relevant work. But as it turned out - this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

First, I made the required body kit contours from a steel square pipe with a section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe easily bends even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be possible to cut off the “tacks” without difficulty. Then he bent the “wings” from hardboard (fibreboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend turned out to be steep, he attached separate strips from the same hardboard. The front end was removed with polystyrene foam purchased at a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene foam or the same mounting foam, but polystyrene foam turned out to be a more suitable material - it is well cut with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a common structure on a mounting foam.

DIY ATV drawings

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DIY ATV frame drawings

Falshbak - complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of the hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill the place intended for it with layers of mounting foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise the thick volume of foam may not dry inside. Filled in until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw the desired shape with a knife. I smoothed the edges with coarse-grained sandpaper.

Under the dashboard, a part went into action dashboard"Oki". I fixed it on the blank, too, with the help of mounting foam. Since the foam is large-pored, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to correspond to the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the block, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, then plastering and painting the block could be neglected.

So, the blockhead is ready and in order to glue a quality product, it took: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 running meters of not thick fiberglass, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. It is highly recommended to wear respiratory protective equipment. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable. But experience, as you know, you can’t buy, so I gained it in the process of work.

I used transparent adhesive tape as a separating layer between the block and the product. Carefully, without gaps, he pasted over the whole blockhead with stripes. It took only 1.5 rolls of wide tape.

I diluted the resin by 200 - 300 grams with a hardener and a plasticizer. I used measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before that, I cut strips of fiberglass in such sizes that large canvases lay on even surfaces, and on irregularities, pieces of fabric could repeat them without making wrinkles. By the way, the fiberglass moderately stretches along the diagonal of the weaves, “flowing around” the desired shape.

First, he thickly smeared one section of the blockhead with epoxy resin, put fiberglass on it and impregnated it again with resin on top. I glued the adjacent piece of fabric using the same technology with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm. I had to work quickly - the resin sets quite quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, I also heated the resin a little near a powerful lighting lamp for better fluidity.

After gluing the blockhead with fiberglass in one layer, I began to glue it with glass mat. I got the glass mat thick enough, and it turned out to be good for them to gain the thickness of the product. But it does not hug bumps, so I used it only on flat (or with a slight deflection) surfaces and without overlap. Impregnation with resin was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. It should only be taken into account that it takes a lot of resin to impregnate glass mat, so you need to dilute it more. Uneven surfaces after gluing the glass mat were glued in several layers with a cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had set a little so that the resin did not leak. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day break, it was necessary to “roughen” the surface with coarse sandpaper and degrease it - after all, the resin is completely cured during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even in one layer.

Since I needed a surface, as they say, the smoother the better, and there was not enough experience, dips and pits still remained - I filled them somewhere with one resin, and where with the imposition of pieces of fiberglass. Resin was a bit lacking. I bought more already in the hardware store, in boxes. I liked working with it more, because it was already packaged, and all that remained was to mix the components. And it dried faster than purchased at the company.

After the glued body kit had completely dried, I made cuts in it, dividing the product into three parts: rear fenders and back, false tank with underseat, front fenders and front. Carefully, slightly prying and pulling with his hands with picking, he separated the product in parts without much effort from the blockhead.

Now, having removed the parts, I began to process them separately, bringing them to the desired result. In general, the usual preparatory and painting work on the "whole" technology: first, rough grinding with the removal of large bulges of resin and fiberglass; then painstaking sealing of recesses with putty with fiberglass; then grinding the outer surface and priming with a plasticizer. In conclusion - painting with "metallic" and varnishing with a plasticizer.

Blockhead also neatly cut off and put in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded "in place" mounts on the frame.

In conclusion, I welded front and rear trunks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them, “kenguryatniks” that replace bumpers.

DIY ATV video

At first glance, it may seem that assembling a homemade ATV is not an easy task. In fact, everything is much simpler than it seems, if you have necessary spare parts and tools. An all-terrain vehicle of this type is usually constructed from parts that can be found on any unused motorcycle that is in decent working order.

Required set of tools

To assemble the device with your own hands, you may need the following tools:

Welding machine.

Bulgarian.

Good set of ring and socket wrenches.

Other small tools like pliers and screwdrivers.

To assemble an ATV, you will need a small room with good lighting and heating. If you assemble in the summer, you can sit under a canopy.

Engine and transmission

Motorcycle engines are suitable as a power unit for a homemade all-terrain vehicle Soviet-made such as "Ural" or "Dnepr". For lighter and more maneuverable equipment, you can use units from motorcycles such as "Java" or "IZH", which were equipped with single-cylinder two-stroke engines.

To simplify the design of the future ATV, along with the engine, it is better to use the same transmission and drive that they were originally equipped with. To build a machine with all-wheel drive you will need to install an additional gearbox. This is extremely rarely used in home-made devices, since it will be difficult to implement an additional node without a sharp increase in weight at home.

Frame and suspension

Frame for homemade apparatus usually made from scratch. As a material for the frame, you can use blanks from an old motorcycle. The pipes from which they are made are light in weight and have the necessary strength and flexibility. In extreme cases, you can choose the material yourself. Here the main parameter will be weight. Excessively thick pipes or profiles will make the ATV very heavy and unbearable for fast and maneuverable riding.

As a suspension, you can use shock absorbers with springs from the same motorcycles. The suspension itself is made in the form of the letter "A", and is movably fixed on the frame. Shock absorbers and springs should be selected so that they can withstand the weight future car, and provided a smooth ride with good handling over bumps and pits.

Steering and wheels

The steering can partially be used as a motorcycle, with the addition of two-wheel drive. The drive is carried out by adding levers and ball joints to the design, which can be borrowed from the car. The main task of steering is precise and comfortable steering.

Wheels for an all-terrain vehicle are best used from a car, as they are wider and will increase the maneuverability of the vehicle. The diameter of the wheels must be calculated in such a way that the homemade ATV can develop sufficient speed, and also have a harmonious appearance.

Body and electronics

For installation attachments, gas tank and controls, you can use a frame from a motorcycle, which is structurally connected to the frame of an ATV. In this case, special attention should be paid to the stability of the all-terrain vehicle, its appearance and the convenience of the driver.

Do not forget about installing all the necessary lighting and outdoor signaling devices on a homemade ATV. The headlights, taillights and direction indicators can be used from the same motorcycle from which everything else was taken.

See what a homemade ATV is in action!

Quite a few hunters, fishermen, and just outdoor enthusiasts dream of their ATV. But the prices of even used equipment are beyond the reach of most people, not to mention new equipment. Do not despair, because today we will learn how to make an ATV with our own hands! This is excellent transport for household needs, for the transportation of trailers, which has a high cross-country ability due to a short wheelbase, as well as easy to drive. But we want to say right away that it will take a lot of time to make a homemade ATV. As practice shows, a project can take from 6 to 12 months on average.

Preparatory stage

So let's get started. First, prepare your tools and equipment. It will take a lot of welding work, for which manual arc welding is quite suitable. Choose electrodes for welding critical and vibration-loaded structures, which will be the ATV frame. By the way, this very frame can be cooked with your own hands from ordinary water pipes. These are easy to find at the nearest scrap metal reception, or metal depot. Choose a pipe diameter from 25 to 32mm, and the wall thickness should be around 3mm. For bending such pipes, it is desirable to have a pipe bender, but if it is not there, then you can also bend the pipes for the frame frame manually using a lever, heating the place of the desired bend with a gas burner, and preferably with an oxy-fuel cutter.

Choice of main parts

The next step will be the selection of the necessary parts in the first place, namely:

engine
wheels
shock absorbers
rear axle

If you want to assemble a simple lightweight quad with a drive only to the rear axle, then it is preferable to choose an engine from a motorcycle of average cubic capacity, from 250 cubic meters and above. Depending on the construction budget, it can be almost any motor from a Soviet motorcycle, preferably with a chain drive, due to which it will be quite easy to drive the rear axle. The axle can be made from a tube made of structural steel. In the center, weld the flanges for fastening the driven star and the disc brake, and install the wheel bearings from the car on the sides, having previously pressed them into the housings made in advance.

The housings are used to attach the axle assembly to the pendulum. The pendulum can be left standard, additionally strengthening it and making a new mount for the disc brake caliper. Also, don't forget to make brake hose mounts along the swingarm.

Our next task is the choice of wheels. And ideal option not only in terms of accessibility, but also in terms of size, there will be wheels from Oka. main feature The fact is that such stamped discs are very light, ideally fit into the proportions of a home-made ATV, and most importantly, rubber from factory quadrics fits perfectly on them, which will significantly improve patency. How it looks can be seen below:

Selection of a donor for a new frame

How to make an ATV even easier to manufacture? You can simply use a donor frame, for example, from a Ural motorcycle by welding the rear axle to the standard swingarm and only slightly change the front suspension! The thick frame of the Urals is made of good steel, has an excellent margin of safety. And a motor with a lot of torque is perfect for such a purpose. As for the gearbox, it is better to use it from the Dnepr motorcycle. It is designed for good loads, it is distinguished by the clarity of gear shifting, and the most important thing is the presence of reverse gear, which is a mandatory feature of a full-fledged ATV. A photo example of a homemade ATV from the Urals is below:

Steering

Assembling an ATV with your own hands is not an easy task. And perhaps the hardest thing to do steering. To do this, first weld the frame of the front of the ATV, then you will need steering knuckles from a car, for example from a Niva, but any others will do. Then you need to build suspension arms. Pay special attention to the design of the attachment of the levers, since large loads occur in their interface with the frame, so additional stiffening ribs will not be superfluous. Levers, as a rule, are bolted through silent blocks. This is a rubber-metal hinge which is an indispensable link in the suspension. It dampens vibrations of the wheels, preventing vibrations from being transmitted to the frame. The levers can be made according to the drawings.

Move on. What front suspension without shock absorbers? Here you can apply 4 motorcycle shock absorbers, one for each arm in the front, and two for the swingarm to dampen the rear axle. fit rear shock absorbers from Izh, but if you are ready to fork out for gas oil with pumping, then this will give you the opportunity to adjust the suspension under road conditions, which is very useful for such equipment as an ATV!

Four-wheel drive and car engine

And how to create an ATV with all-wheel drive yourself, you ask? Above, we considered the simplest option. But a variant is possible not only with a motorcycle engine, but also with a car engine! And then we will tell you how to make an ATV with an engine from Oka. In case of four-wheel drive ATV with a car engine, things are much more serious. Here it is no longer possible to use a motorcycle frame as a basis, it will have to be welded completely from scratch under car engine. By the way, it can be not only from Oka, but also from any other, depending on your desires and capabilities. Immediately do not forget about the liquid cooling system. Consider designing the frame in such a way as to place the radiator with the fan in a protected place from forest branches. The engine with the gearbox should be mounted along the frame so that the drive shaft from the gearbox is immediately directed to the rear axle. To distribute the rotation of the wheels to each wheel, you will need 2 identical bridges, for example from Zhiguli. But you will have to shorten them to install. To increase the cross-country ability, if desired, you can make a reduction chain reducer, compatible with a standard gearbox. In this case, the drive gear should be slightly smaller than the driven gear. By simple calculations of the ratio of the diameters of these gears, you can find out how much it will decrease maximum speed and traction will increase. If the ATV is not going to be used for driving on public roads, then this will be a very significant technical decision.

Increased functionality

Now that the frame and chassis the ATV will be assembled, the engine installed, you need to think about secondary structures, thanks to which it will be practical to use the equipment. The fuel tank is well suited from a Ural motorcycle. Its impressive capacity will be enough even for a car engine. An important modification will be the installation of a "snorkel". Since the engine in the frame is located quite low, then air filter respectively draws air from below. To prevent water from getting into it when overcoming fords, it is highly recommended to do this. Completely needs to be redone exhaust system, with the output of exhaust gases at a fairly high level, so that water also does not get inside. Also for an ATV you need a large wide seat by moving the weight of the body, it will be possible to achieve better control when moving. Aluminum sheet metal can be made into underbody protection to protect the front suspension arms and engine. Not superfluous in the forest will be a winch installed in front. Fog lights can be used to illuminate the road.

Work on appearance

In conclusion, in order to bring the ATV to the proper appearance, similar to the real thing, you need a body. To do this, you need epoxy resin ED-20 and fiberglass. These components can be purchased at a hardware or hardware store.

To give this shape, first you need to cut a blank from dense foam, which is also sold in large hardware stores in the form of 1 m2 plates, which is very convenient for creating such projects. Then fiberglass is applied in several layers, while each layer is smeared with resin. The more layers, the stronger the case. Do not forget about the metal fasteners that must be inserted between the layers, in the future, for which the body will be attached to the frame of the ATV. After drying, it can be primed, sanded and painted. This fiberglass body is light weight and very durable.

With a serious approach to business, such an ATV will not be inferior to the factory one in anything, and in terms of assembly costs, it turns out to be many times cheaper. Despite the fact that you can collect such a thing for yourself and get a lot of driving pleasure.

A year has passed since, when leaving the garage, I tried my first ATV with rear-wheel drive (). And then the thought came: why not now make an all-wheel drive ATV (from the English. All Terrain Vehicle - all-terrain vehicle; similar machines received such an international designation).

Fortunately, at that time a buyer turned up for a buggy (), and the proceeds went to the implementation of a new project.

A year of work for 3-4 hours after work and on weekends - and the new car was ready for testing, there were only small (and I would say pleasant) improvements: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other little things.

The power unit for my ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid-cooled. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.

1 - front wheel(from the car "Chevrolet-Niva", 2 pcs.);

2 - engine (from the car "Oka");

3 - front wheel drive transmission;

4 - gearbox (from the car "Oka");

5 - rear wheel drive transmission;

7 - rear wheel(from the car "Chevrolet-Niva", 2 pcs.);

8 - fuel tank (20-liter canister);

9 - rear trunk;

10 - silencer;

11 - passenger backrest (headrest from the Oka car);

12 - saddle;

13 - clutch basket (from the Oka car);

14 - gear lock lever;

15 - body kit (fiberglass);

16 - steering wheel (from the Ural motorcycle);

17 - instrument panel (from the car "Oka");

18 - front trunk

The transmission of the all-terrain vehicle is peculiar. Although the car is all-wheel drive, it does not have a transfer case. As you know, in the "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheels (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. That's just the power unit itself, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal articulated shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.

The transmission was assembled from units of various domestic cars, mainly "VAZ" models. But ready-made industrial units also had to be finalized. For example, from the gearbox (from Oka), to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod also made another one - elongated, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The stem can be fixed in three positions: for engaging 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.

Interwheel gearboxes - from the rear axles of the VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts, together with the "stockings", were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints as hinges are also used in the remaining intermediate shafts of the transmission.

1 - motor (from the car "Oka");

2 - clutch (from the car "Oka");

3 - gearbox;

4 - CV joint (from the car VAZ-2108, 12 pcs);

5 - final drive gearbox with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);

6 - shaft (from a VAZ-2108 car, 6 pcs.);

7 - wheel (from the car "Chevrolet-Niva")

There are no low gears or differential locks.

Steering - motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automobile type (with steering rods) - at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. The steering wheel was first used from a Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and installed from the Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. At the lower end it has a stroke limiter. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.

Wheels - 15-inch, from the Chevrolet Niva car. Tires with appropriate rim size 205/70 (width/height as a percentage of width) with off-road tread pattern. The running diameter of the wheel is about 660 mm.

1 - lower spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);

2 - upper spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);

3 - rack (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

4 - support of the rear upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);

5 - rear brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

6 - support of the front upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

7 - front brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

8 - top support front shock absorber(corner 35×35);

9 - rack of the upper support of the front shock absorber (sheet s5, 2 pcs.);

10 - front engine mount support post (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

11 - rear support leg of the engine mount (sheet s3.2 pcs.);

12 - eyelets for fastening levers and shock absorbers of suspensions (sheet s5, 18 pairs);

13 - saddle mounting bracket (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

14 - upper cross connection (pipe d20x2.8);

15 - lower cross connection (pipe d20x2.8.2 pcs.);

16 - radiator support (pipe d25x3.2 cut in half lengthwise, 2 pcs.);

17 - front console of the steps (pipe d20x2);

18 - rear console of the steps (pipe d20x2);

19 - connection of the front and rear consoles of the steps (pipe d20x2);

20 - footrest cross member (sheet s5, 4 pcs.);

21 - lug for fastening a fiberglass body kit (sheet s5, set)

Wheel suspension - independent, on two triangular transverse levers each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). The levers are welded from round tubes of VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car "Oka" (rear). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers - from the VAZ-2109 car. Both of them had to be improved. I installed wheel studs from the Niva in the hubs, and home-made swing arms in the front fists.

Silencer - self-made, two-section. To protect against temperature warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.

ATV body kit - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for the implementation of the relevant work. But as it turned out - this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

(a - the upper arm of the front suspension; b - lower arm front suspension; c - lower arm rear suspension; g - the upper arm of the rear suspension; all parts, except for those noted specifically, are made of VGT-20 pipe):

1 - beam (2 pcs.);

2 - cross member;

3 - bushing (pipe d37x32, 2 pcs.);

4 - shock absorber mounting eye (steel, sheet s3);

5 - ball joint (from the steering rod of the Zhiguli car)

First, I made the required body kit contours from a steel square pipe with a section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe easily bends even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be possible to cut off the “tacks” without difficulty. Then he bent the “wings” from hardboard (fibreboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend turned out to be steep, he attached separate strips from the same hardboard. The front end was removed with expanded polystyrene purchased at a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene foam or the same mounting foam, but polystyrene foam turned out to be a more suitable material - it is well cut with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a common structure on a mounting foam.

1 - steering shaft (pipe d20x2.8);

2 - steering wheel connection plate (steel, sheet s6);

3 - brace of the plate (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

4 - detachable bracket-sleeve of the steering shaft (kapron, sheet s18);

5 - support washer (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

6 - bipod (steel, sheet 18);

7 - steering limiter (steel, sheet s6);

8 - bearing housing;

9 - thrust tip (steel, circle 15);

10 - thrust bearing

Falshbak - complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of the hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill the place intended for it with layers of mounting foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise the thick volume of foam may not dry inside. Filled in until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse-grained sandpaper.

Under the dashboard, a part of the Oka dashboard went into action. I fixed it on the blank, too, with the help of mounting foam. Since the foam is large-pored, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to correspond to the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the block, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, then plastering and painting the block could be neglected.

So, the blockhead is ready and in order to glue a quality product, it took: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 linear meters of thin fiberglass, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. It is highly recommended to wear respiratory protective equipment. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable. But experience, as you know, you can’t buy, so I gained it in the process of work.

After wrapping the blockhead with fiberglass in one layer, I began to glue it with glass mat. I got the glass mat thick enough, and it turned out to be good for them to gain the thickness of the product. But it does not hug bumps, so I used it only on flat (or with a slight deflection) surfaces and without overlap. Impregnation with resin was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. It should only be taken into account that it takes a lot of resin to impregnate a stackomat, so you need to dilute it more. Uneven surfaces after gluing the stackomat were glued in several layers with a cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had set a little so that the resin did not leak. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day break, it was necessary to “roughen” the surface with coarse sandpaper and degrease it - after all, the resin is completely cured during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even in one layer.

Trunks:

a - front; b - rear

Blockhead also neatly cut off and put in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded "in place" mounts on the frame.

In conclusion, I welded front and rear trunks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them, “kenguryatniks” that replace bumpers.

Main data of ATV:

Weight, kg…………………………………………430

Length, mm………………………………………2300

Width, mm

(along the outer sidewalls of tires)………1250

Height, mm:

on the steering wheel……………………………………….1250

on the saddle………………………………………..900

Ground clearance, mm…………………….300

Base, mm…………………………………………1430

Track, mm………………………………………1045

Maximum speed, km/h…………….65

S. PLETNEV, Ocher, Perm Territory

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