Ignition key off Skoda Yeti outdoor.
An extremely rare case, but still there is a precedent, so it is worth considering the procedure for such a problem.
Two versions of the same situation
The first is that when you try to start the car, the “key” icon lights up on the screen and the engine stalls. But after several attempts, it still starts up and for some time no problems arise, until the next time.
Second the option is even worse - the “key” on the scoreboard also lights up, but after that it is no longer possible to start the car at any time. It does not help either removing the clamp, or trying to start the car with a second key.
It should be said right away that such rare problems occur, as a rule, in guarantee period car maintenance, in the first 5-10 thousand car mileage. This means you don't have to pay for repairs. It's a good news.
But there is also a bad one. Firstly, if your Skoda Yeti still starts up after a certain attempt, then I advise you to immediately go to the service. Because next time the car may no longer work and you will have to get to the service already on a tow truck.
Secondly, the cause of this problem is in the immobilizer unit, which will need to be replaced. And the ignition lock cylinder with the immobilizer unit will most likely be ordered in the Czech Republic, so the replacement period can stretch for a month. Here is the biggest inconvenience in this situation.
The only thing that can be advised in this situation - do not forget to demand replacement car while your Skoda Yeti is being repaired. After all, not all families have more than one car, and being without a car for a month is very inconvenient.
And I repeat, very few owners of the Czech SUV faced such a problem.
Childhood diseases Skoda car Yeti (Skoda Yeti) with a 1.2 liter engine, turbo, TSIThis car has become a fairly frequent guest with us ...
From the name of the car it is clear and immediately attracts attention: "1.2-liter engine." And without "turbo" and TSI systems it would be quite difficult for this motor to carry such a body: the photo shows the height of work to eliminate an extreme malfunction during the service period in our car service.
But I'll start from the very beginning: at first the sound of the engine was heard, then this Skoda appeared from behind the turn. It became clear from the sound: “Something is wrong with the engine” ... I looked into the salon, saw a burning oil pressure light and told the client:
You first need to contact the mechanics, a burning light bulb in oil is for them.
The car was redirected to a locksmith's post, where our specialists, after opening the oil pan, identified a malfunction: “oil receiver clogged”. Moreover, it was not clogged with some kind of garbage, but “with something resembling tar”, as Sergei, a locksmith post specialist, said.
But the owner was surprised and said that Maintenance it passed and passes regularly, as it should be: once every fifteen thousand kilometers.
After the elimination of this malfunction, the engine was started, they let it work a little and the engine began to come to life, the sound of its operation became much softer, the light on the instrument panel no longer lit up.
The locksmith post was just the beginning. Sergey saw that the oil pressure light on the instrument panel went out, but others lit up: “ directional stability' and 'Check engine'. And again, the car moves to its original place, to the post of automotive diagnostics and repair, that is, to us. For diagnostics, the original scanner is used, which shows the following error:
From the practice of working with such motors, I know that one of the reasons for the appearance of this error may be an elementary pollution sensors. However, their thorough cleaning did not help.
While the car was running Idling (it takes some time to drive all the excess oil out of the intercooler - it is built into the intake manifold and is liquid cooled) continued to think and analyze the situation. Then he turned off the engine and began to look for information in more detail. All manuals, service manuals, manuals and other sources technical information on the topic of the question, they said that “it is necessary to check this or that, measure the voltage there ... check if there is a leak” ... however, everything was checked and no deviations were found. I thought: “What else can affect this malfunction?”.
Finally got to the node throttle valve, everything looked clean there, but for some reason I wanted to definitely look there - I just wanted to look ... Which was done.
Indeed, outwardly everything was clean and did not arouse any suspicion:
But, despite the apparent cleanliness - I didn’t believe this cleanliness, I was reinsured and the throttle was carefully cleaned (how to clean it properly you can read both in Legion-Avtodata articles and on the Legion-Avtodata forum: http://autodata.ru/article/ , http://forum.autodata.ru/index.php ).
After that, with some impatience, I started the engine and did a throttle adaptation. What turned out: there were no errors on the motor after cleaning the throttle, and the pressure error disappeared after adaptation.
Warming up, the motor began to enter the operating mode. And here's what I thought: “The suspicions turned out to be justified: the turbine on this engine is interesting, it is like a pump for the crankcase ventilation system, the pipe of the crankcase gas system has an outlet just before the turbine air intake ... and, in all likelihood, due to the installation of a non-original air filter or a certain degree of contamination , the turbine sucks an excessive amount of oil vapor into the intake manifold, and the oil, burning, thereby cokes the engine.
The air filter was replaced with the original one, and the client was advised to change it every ten thousand kilometers and do a chemical flush of the nozzles as a prevention of engine coking. After some time, we again had the car for inspection, we looked at it and made sure that after the operations we carried out, the throttle valve and intake manifold were clean, without traces of oil contamination.
The problem with the motor and errors was solved, but after some time this car was again at the gates of our box, but this time with other troubles for the client: the indication of opening and closing the doors stopped working. And everything happened quite cunningly: if the driver's door is opened halfway - the indication shows this, but if the door is brought to full opening - that's it, the indication shows that the door is closed. Moreover, at this moment, the indication on tailgate didn't work either.
A 2010 car, as they say about such cars, is “advanced”, and most of the faults can be viewed using the original scanner. Looked. It turned out that when the doors were fully opened, there was no connection with the driver's door control unit, just as there was no connection with the rear left door unit. The schematic here is as follows: control goes through the CAN bus, only power and CAN itself are suitable. Few wires. Control units are in each door. I look further: when the door is closed, the connection is restored. I already had experience of such work, so I immediately looked into the wiring harness going to the door, lifting up the rubber casing for this. And here it is!... (pictured below).
The work, at first glance, is simple, nothing complicated! However, take a closer look at the photo - I had to disassemble a lot in order to pull the injured tourniquet out of the door to a sufficient length for convenient work and high-quality repairs.
He took off the protective cover and determined the location of the malfunction: at the bend (break) point, the wires were broken off. Everything is correct: when closing - opening the door, the contacts were either connected or disconnected, thereby the control unit determined the error, and the power wires were broken off. It could not lead to anything good in the future, it’s good if it just closes and burns out the fuse. And if the fuse is fake, the one "Chinese" that does not burn out, but "burns with a blue flame"? It's close to the fire here.
We pull out the wires a little and begin to build them up. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that I carry out such extensions and connections only with a silicone acoustic wire. I take the junction as far as possible from the point of the previous junction so that there is no repetition. Why such a wire - "acoustic". They are much nicer, soft and flexible more reliable with good (minimum) resistance (good wires use oxygen-free copper).
Two words about why in recent years there have been more and more calls to a car service for electrical connections. Don't laugh, but my personal opinion: “The greens and their sometimes unreasonable environmental demands are to blame for everything.” Broken wires suffer german cars and some others using the same technology, but Japanese-made cars have these problems less often. I think that it is according to the requirements of "green" ecologists that such technologies began to be used, because of which electric car wires began to serve a shorter period. However, this also plays into the hands of manufacturers: the sooner the car stops working, the more people will buy new cars. "Environmental electric wires– more brittle and less reliable wires.
All connections must be carried out with soldering:
I didn’t manage to put the rubber casing on the outside of the door, I had to unscrew the power window and only after pushing it a little inward, I was able to put my hand in and push the casing from the inside.
Finally, I can say: this car is only three years old, and it has already begun to have such serious problems. It must be assumed that very soon similar cars with similar malfunctions will flow into car services.
Good luck with your repairs!
Gorshkov D.A.
© Legion-Avtodata
Gorshkov Dmitry Alexandrovich (8 926 171 75 95), Elektrostal, Mira Avenue, 27-a, car technical center building
432 ..Skoda Yeti 1.2 TSI
Skoda Yeti 1.2TSI 5dr. crossover, 105 hp, 7automatic transmission, 2013 - the starter turns, but the engine does not start
The starter turns, but the engine does not start
The reasons
There can be quite a few reasons for this behavior of the car. The main ones are listed below. We have divided them into two categories. To begin with, we will analyze those that any beginner can handle:
Human factor:
You forgot to turn off the anti-theft, which blocks, for example, only the fuel pump.
Exhaust pipe clogged. Kind people put a rag or a potato into it, or maybe you just drove into a snowdrift - there are many options. exhaust pipe should be released.
All of the above, in general, is not a breakdown, and is solved in a jiffy. And now we will analyze the reasons associated with a technical malfunction:
If the starter turns very slowly, then the engine oil thickened in the cold may be the cause. Or maybe a battery discharged after a long stay or its strongly oxidized terminals. In this case, the voltage of the on-board network may sink so that the engine control unit refuses to work. Well, everything is clear here: oil should be filled according to the season, the battery should be charged or replaced.
Something is frozen - water in the gas line, diesel fuel in the tank or filter. Look for warm box!
Fuel pump defective. This is easy to verify, unless you are trying to start the car near a busy and noisy highway. If it is quiet around, then a sensitive ear is able to catch the absence of the characteristic buzz of the fuel pump during starter operation. At best, poor contact in the circuit is to blame, at worst, a pump replacement awaits you.
The flywheel is turning. This sometimes happened on cars of previous years of production, up to the VAZ-2109. You can hear that the bendix has engaged with the crown, and the crown is turning on the flywheel with a squeal. The flywheel is being replaced.
The starter does not engage with the crown. Cause: wear parts, teeth are chipped, etc. When trying to start, there is a grinding of teeth. Get ready to replace the crown or flywheel.
stuck bendix. Either his drive flew, or the bendix itself - it doesn’t matter. You can hear the starter motor turning high revs, but there are no more attempts to crank the engine. Get ready to repair or replace the starter itself.
Failure of the ignition system in gasoline cars. We check everything in a row - candles, coils, wiring, etc.
At diesel machine glow plugs are not working. The problem may be in the control unit, as well as in the power relay. The candles themselves should also be checked - you will have to tinker with this.
Broken timing belt. It is easy to feel: the starter has become easy to turn. If you are lucky (the pistons did not meet the valves), it is enough to replace the belt, if not, then half a motor.
The timing belt jumped a few teeth, violating the correct valve timing. Again, at best, you will need to return the belt to its place, but at worst, expensive repairs await you.
Increased resistance to rotation crankshaft: seizures on the shafts, bearing shells, parts of the cylinder-piston group, deformation of the shafts. Check if the engine can be cranked when pushing the vehicle in top gear into mechanical box gears. With a machine gun, you will have to try to crank the engine by the drive pulley bolt auxiliary units. If the engine can be cranked relatively easily, then the search for the cause will need to be continued.
Jammed alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor. A defective unit does not allow the engine to turn. To check, you can first see if the belt is overstretched when trying to crank the engine. If suspicions are confirmed, then you can remove the auxiliary drive belt and try to drive to the service station on your own. Of course, this will only work on cars where the coolant pump rotates the timing belt. With a non-working pump, without coolant circulation, even cold engine boil quickly.
At night, they tried to steal your car, but something went wrong. As a result, the attackers rummaged, broke something and disappeared in disgrace. Here, without diagnostics at the service station, the problem cannot be solved.
What to do
If the starter turns, but the engine does not start, the first thing to check is the power supply system and the ignition system.
Please note that all these checks should be performed only when the starter turns smoothly, without jerking. Otherwise (jerks during starter operation or clicks instead of the usual buzz), the problem should be sought, first of all, in the starter itself.
Checking the fuel system should be performed sequentially - from the fuel pump to the injector (carburetor):
1. If you have an injector, then with ignition on the buzzing of the electric fuel pump should be heard in the cabin. If there is no buzzing, then either the fuel pump motor burned out, or there is no voltage on it. Therefore, it is necessary to check the fuel pump itself, as well as its fuse.
2. C carbureted cars everything is a little more complicated: the fuel pump is driven by a camshaft, so to check you have to remove the end of the hose from the carburetor inlet fitting or the fuel pump outlet fitting. If you swing the fuel pump manual priming lever several times, gasoline should come out of the fitting or hose.
3. To check the presence of gasoline in the injector rail, press the valve of the fitting to connect the pump: gasoline should flow from there.
4. Be sure to check if it is clogged fuel filter. Perhaps the engine simply does not have enough fuel, so it will not start.
5. Another reason the starter turns over but the car won't start is a clogged throttle.
After completing all the above steps, you can try to start the car again. If the starter still turns, but the car does not start, then you need to proceed to check the ignition system.
1. First you need to unscrew the candle and check for a spark on it. To do this, you need to put a high-voltage wire on the switched off candle, touch the metal part of the engine with the skirt of the candle and turn the engine with a starter (you will need an assistant for this). If there is a spark, then the candle is working.
2. If no spark in an injection car, then the problem is in the ignition module.
3. If there is no spark in the carburetor engine, then the ignition coil should be checked. Pull the center wire out of the cover of the distributor, place its end 5 mm from the metal part of the engine (without touching it) and ask an assistant to turn the engine over with the starter. If there is no spark, the coil is bad.
4. If there is a spark and the ignition coil is working, you should remove the cover of the distributor and see if there are any defects under it (carbon deposits, cracks, etc.).
There are times when all these checks are not enough, and the car owner has to carry out deeper checks to identify the reason that the starter is turning and the engine is not starting. Among the reasons why this may be, there are also:
1. Blown fuse. This is not common, but it is still worth checking the integrity of the fuses in the blocks.
2. Corrosion on any of the electrical parts.
3. Condensation under the hood. There were times when the car would not start precisely because of excessive moisture under the hood.
Specifications
Technical Skoda specifications Yeti 1.2 TSI / Skoda Yeti in the back of 5 doors. crossover with a 105 hp engine, 7 automatic transmissions manufactured since 2013
Your technical equipment must be impeccable - because the time you have is the same money that we hope you also have. Don't lose either one. If a missing tie or a pant leg burned with an iron can cause a disruption in a business meeting, then what can we say about a car that does not want to start an hour before the scheduled negotiations.
Early in the morning, freshly shaved and full of great plans (the child goes to school, the wife goes to the hairdresser, and he himself - to forge a penny), you jump into the car, "key to start" and ... What the hell ... One more time. More ... Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is ruined from the start. Plans and mood - down the drain.
Take it easy. No need to rush under the hood in an English suit and, smearing oily dirt with a tie, try to make a diagnosis. In 5 minutes, most likely, you will not cure. Take another car, and leave the treatment of a sick friend until the evening. And it is better to entrust it to doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have an expensive car, and you are not a specialist. That will be cheaper. Well, if your friend is well known to you and you consider yourself a healer - well, try it yourself, if you are not too lazy to get dirty or there is no other way out.
The diagnosis should be made calmly
Study mentally the symptoms. First, is the starter spinning? And if so, how cheerfully? You already know the answer - remember what happened when you first tried to start the car. If you don't remember, try again.
If the starter does not turn at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice above: "Take another car ..."), or the trouble is with the battery - turned off or sat down. Only in rare models can the starter power circuit be protected by a fuse - a 300 amp commercial - it is easy to find, especially if you know in advance where it is located. If the battery is to blame, then, as a rule, all electrical equipment does not work either. The simplest and easiest case is that one of the terminals has fallen off or dirty, but the battery is in order. Tighten the terminals on it and on the starter (if any). If it turns out that the battery is completely dead (forgot to turn off the headlights for the night), you can still leave. But with outside help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try starting from a push, from a hill or from a tow. Do not try to get around the pitfalls: a car with an automatic transmission or electronic fuel injection (if there is an electric fuel pump) cannot be started by these methods. You'll have to smoke at a neighbor's. True, for some machines this can lead to damage to the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If the starter is spinning, but sluggishly (this happens in summer, in winter this is a subject of a separate discussion), most likely, the battery is almost completely discharged. This will be seen by the weak headlights or frail signal. In this case, the above options for outside assistance come into play.
If the starter turns briskly, and the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, feel free to exclude everything related to the battery from further consideration. Blame the ignition or fuel supply system, you can't go wrong. When diagnosing and treating each of them, a systematic approach is required. It is better to start with the ignition - there are problems more often. Especially in wet weather.
From a spark will ignite ...
So, you need to look for a spark. Your machine may be equipped with a classic (simple) contact system ignition, a rather complex electronic non-contact or some combined option. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part one is low-voltage (breaker contacts in a classical system or a special sensor in an electronic one, plus a box with electronic filling that forms a spark). Part two is a step-up transformer, referred to in the world as an ignition coil. Part three - high-voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires through which the current high voltage leads to candles). And, of course, the candles themselves. Checking all this economy should be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.
Stage one. High voltage part of the system. Check if there is a spark on the center wire - this is the one that connects the coil to the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cap, brought closer to any part that has good contact with the mass of the car (it does not matter whether it is painted or not), and fixed so that there is a gap of 5-7 mm between the tip and the selected part.
If the ignition of your car is electronic, you need to fasten the wire especially securely - if it falls to the ground, the electronics will instantly order a long life. For the same reason, you can not strike a wire on the body. We also do not recommend holding it with your hand, not even your own - it will shock you great.
Stage two. Turn the engine over with the starter. At the same time, look at what happens at the tip of the wire. There are two options. More favorable - there is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by a loud click. This significantly narrows the field for further searches.
The first step is to remove the distributor cap. Under it can be damp and dirty. Through such a "conductor" the spark readily jumps anywhere, but not where it is needed. Wipe, scrub and dry. At the same time, it is harmless to clean the contacts of the distributor, for example, with a fine sandpaper. Examine the so-called "runner". If you find a dark trace of electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cover, the part will have to be changed.
In the most biased way, check the wires coming from the distributor to the candles. Wires and their lugs must be dry and clean. If, in your opinion, everything is in order with them, you can put the cover back on, reconnect and try to start the engine. If the malfunction was hidden under the cover, the engine will start or, in worst case at least start sneezing. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you will have to turn out, clean and dry the candles - in an attempt to start the engine, you filled them with gasoline. If the engine does not even sneeze, the candles will still have to be turned out, cleaned and checked. It's easier if you have a spare set.
If you have already got to the stage of turning out the candles, you can quite effectively (and effectively) check the entire ignition system as a whole. By connecting to the inverted candles high voltage wires, collect the candles in a bundle, like carrots, and wrap them directly along their threaded part with bare soft wire. Make sure the wire makes contact with each spark plug but does not touch the center electrodes. Connect the free end of the wire to ground. Having placed a bunch of candles in a place convenient for observation from the passenger compartment, turn the engine with a starter. At the same time, cheerful sparks should jump between the electrodes of the candles in turn (in accordance with the order of operation of the cylinders). If so, then the entire ignition system is in order. The sound of the engine at the same time will be very unusual - do not be alarmed, because it is spinning with the candles turned out. Don't spin for too long. Worse, if at the second stage of the test there is another option: there is no spark between the central wire and the "case". So, it's not about high voltage circuits. Further searches will be more difficult, evaluate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if voltage is applied to the ignition coil. This is easy to do with a tester, and if it is not there, you can use the engine compartment light. True, you need a couple of wires to connect it to the coil. In a classic ignition system, you need to connect a light bulb between ground and the input of the primary winding.
At the third stage, as usual, two options are also possible: voltage is either applied to the coil or not. If it is supplied, the coil is to blame - breakdown or short circuit, which, however, happens extremely rarely. The coil will need to be changed. More often there is a bad contact in fastening the wires to the coil. Or the same wet dirt, through which the spark flows away, no one knows where. Sometimes the coil is polished to a shine, but an invisible very narrow strip of dirt remains under it - a good conductor.
If, at the third stage, you made sure that no voltage was supplied to the coil, the electronics or contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. You can’t cope with electronics (switch and, less often, a sensor in the distributor housing) - special equipment is needed to diagnose them. You can only pull the sensor connector on the distributor housing - suddenly it will help. If you have a car with a classic contact ignition system, you can look further.
Remove the cover from the distributor and inspect the breaker contacts - they can oxidize, especially if the machine has been standing still for some time. Contacts must be carefully cleaned with a thin sandpaper or a special file.
Pull the cleaned contacts so that they either close or open. The voltage on them is only 12 volts, so you can pull it fearlessly. If the cleaning did not help and the voltage to the coil is still not applied, once again we advise you to stop trying to resuscitate the car for a while, since difficulties will begin further.
If voltage has appeared (when the contacts are pulled, the light flashes), restore everything that has been unscrewed and disassembled, start the car and, perhaps, still have time to go about its business. If it doesn’t start, but at least sneezes, turn out the candles and ... (see above).
Do not press to the floor - it will not help
It may also turn out that the entire ignition system was checked, everything is in order in it, and the engine, even if you crack, still does not start. So, problems with another of the previously mentioned systems - power system, t. e. supplying fuel to the engine.
If you have an injection machine ( injection system supply) of fuel - do not touch it (to the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it was she who broke down: there is a spark, the fuel is suitable - it means that she, darling. Treatment only in a hospital. At home and with handicraftsmen, repairing it is useless and even harmful.
In a conventional carbureted engine fuel system simpler - a tank, a gasoline pump, a set of pipelines and a carburetor. Here you can poke around yourself. The first step is to make sure that gasoline enters the carburetor. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and press the manual priming lever. If a fairly powerful stream of gasoline has scored, everything is fine, it's time to move on to the carburetor. It happens that gasoline is supplied to the carburetor properly, but for some reason it does not enter it. If you have time and desire, take air filter, then ask someone to depress the accelerator pedal sharply. Or you can sharply pull on the throttle cable yourself. At the same time, look into the carburetor from above (the air damper is open, otherwise you won’t see anything): if a trickle of gasoline does not appear in the first diffuser, it means that it is not in the float chamber. It is not there because the valve needle is stuck or (it happens not very often) the fuel filter in the carburetor is completely clogged - it is located in front of the float chamber. Or clogged jets. The filter is cleaned by blowing, but if you don’t have the necessary skills, it’s better not to mess with the carburetor internals at all, deal with sticking of the needle valve, clogged jets and other subtleties - let the experts do it.
If there is a trickle in the diffuser, pay attention to starting device carburetor - it often fails. On foreign cars, starting from about the 70s, automatic control is used air damper. The device, without your participation, depending on the temperature of the engine, closes or opens the damper as much as necessary, enriching the mixture when the engine is started. If this automation works, you can try manual manipulations with the air damper, but there are a lot of options and there are no universal tips. Before starting manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. The air filter can not be installed yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and with God (after returning the air filter to its place) .. If, when checking the fuel supply with the fuel pump, it turns out that gasoline is not coming out of the hose or the stream is very thin, the cause must be sought in clogged pipelines, a fine fuel filter or the gas tank itself - you can quite demonstrate your skill by pumping the gas line with a tire pump in the opposite direction to the movement of gasoline, i.e. e. from the carburetor to the tank. In the tank, booming, gurgling sounds should be heard.
With a fine fuel filter, everything is simple. Although on almost all modern models it is made in a transparent case, the degree of contamination cannot be visually determined. A dirty filter will allow you to start the engine, but will not allow you to drive normally. If it is completely clogged, the engine will not start. The most effective check: remove the filter and, if there is no new one, temporarily replace it with a suitable tube, for example, ballpoint pen cases, preferably transparent - you can see how gasoline flows. Do not try to clean the filter - a sealed (or sealed) case cannot be disassembled.
If you come to the conclusion that your car does not have a fuel pump, and there is no spare on hand - "Take another car ...".
We saved the rare but most unpleasant diagnosis for last. If the starter is working properly, you have already spent a lot of time and made sure that the ignition and power are in in perfect order, but the car, nevertheless, does not start - it is worth inspecting the camshaft drive belt. However, decide for yourself, this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has already passed more than 60 thousand. The difficulty is that you have to remove or at least partially bend the upper part of the plastic casing covering the belt. Perhaps the teeth of the belt were cut off - in belts, like in humans, teeth are lost from old age. In this case, the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not work. It is clear that a toothless belt needs to be replaced (those who have a car with a camshaft chain drive do not face this trouble). The procedure for replacing the belt is not difficult, but troublesome. It is carried out in a hospital. Well, if everything is limited to replacing only the belt, and not bent valves or the entire head of the block - this also happens.
Fewer freeloaders
It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since it is maintenance-free on most modern cars, it makes no sense to give operating instructions here. We will give just a few additional tips on how to keep the battery viable longer. Do not get carried away stuffing your car with additional energy consumers. The fact that the energy balance of the car has a certain margin that allows you to connect two or three "freeloaders" does not mean that you can hang six horns and ten fog lights on the car - have a sense of proportion. In addition, if you connect unforeseen tsatski yourself, there is a high probability of damage to the insulation. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified, surgical intervention in the electrical wiring of a car sooner or later makes itself felt. Trouble.
If your battery is dying, try not to chug your engine during countless city stops. Nothing rapes the battery like frequent use of the starter.
And the last (this applies not only to the battery, but to all electrical equipment in general). Remember: all terminals, contacts, wire lugs must be dry and clean and fit well to the "destinations". Dirty, oily insulation breaks through sooner or later, and burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) reason for the failure of the ignition system. Or fire.
You can stop there. Meticulous motorists, of course, drew attention to some superficiality of our advice. We admit that we deliberately do not want to delve into the wilds. In order not to provoke you to self-treatment - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain in the lower abdomen on the right does not mean that you yourself have to remove your appendix. But you must accurately describe the symptoms of appendicitis to the doctor. It helps a lot with the treatment.