For the engine to develop full power, the following conditions must be met:
1 - good engine compression;
2 - stable and plentiful supply of fuel;
3 - a large amount of air.
If one of the above conditions is not met, then Engine efficiency will be low.
When traction is lost under load, this means that the engine control unit has switched to emergency mode. Emergency mode engine operation is provided for all modern machines. This mode is necessary so that the car does not quickly, but safely reach its destination.
To find the right reason I need to do computer diagnostics of the engine.
According to the results computer diagnostics we will understand in which direction to move and where to dig in order to find out the true cause of the malfunction.
If diesel the engine does not have enough fuel, then check the fuel equipment: .
If the diagnostics shows that there is enough diesel fuel, and the turbine is under-blowing and there are no errors in other systems, then it is advisable to measure the engine compression.
Lack of proper engine compression will result in the engine will not pull and develop full power. If there is no piston compression, but there is enough air and fuel, then a strong explosion will still not occur, thus there will be no good exhaust, and as we know, the exhaust spins the turbine, so the turbine will not inflate the required amount of air. Lack of air boost will cause the car to not pull.
The most common reason for lack of airflow- problems in the operation of the turbine and shutdown of the turbine itself.
Consider an engine with variable turbine geometry (the most common).
Turning off the turbine, as a rule, occurs due to one of two problems: one is associated with air, the other with a mechanical malfunction of the turbine itself (impeller wear, axle play).
There are variable geometry turbines that are controlled by vacuum, and there are those that are controlled by an electronic actuator.
The machine has four sensors that fully affect the operation of the turbine.
1 - Boost pressure sensor. It will measure the air pressure in the intake manifold.
2 - Boost pressure regulator. This is a valve that controls the geometry, i.e. turns the turbine on and off.
3 - Intake air temperature sensor. Shows the temperature of the air entering the motor.
4 - Atmospheric pressure sensor. Measures the atmospheric pressure where the vehicle is moving (normal atmospheric pressure relative to sea level).
Most often it happens that the tightness of the air intake system is broken in the car. Thus, the turbine drives all the air out (the pipe is torn, the connection is poor at the joints, the intercooler (air cooling radiator) is cracked).
To identify such a problem, it is necessary to check the entire air intake system for leaks.
Next most common problem: Faulty geometry in the turbine.
To check the geometry on the car, you need to remove the vacuum hose from the actuator on the turbine itself. Put another hose on it and try with your mouth or special device draw in air. After this procedure, the stem that controls the geometry must change its position. If it does not change its position, then there may be 2 reasons, either the membrane in the actuator is torn, or the geometry itself is jammed.
Failure of the boost pressure regulator and boost pressure sensordetected by the presence of errors in them in the results of computer diagnostics.
The boost pressure regulator can also be checked with a vacuum gauge.
Don't forget to check the vacuum pump and vacuum tubes throughout the machine for leaks. This is done as follows, disconnect the pipe in some place, put your hand on it, you should feel air being drawn in.
A turbine with an electronic actuator is checked only with the help of computer diagnostics!
Please note that "swirl" flaps (not available in all vehicles) can also affect the loss of traction.
We hope that this information will help you identify the reason why your car is not pulling or gaining full power, as well as gaining enough knowledge to communicate with car service specialists.
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With long-term operation of the car, sooner or later the time comes when the driver begins to notice that the car “pulls” worse and worse. In other words, the motor does not cope well even with small loads. To overcome them, you have to spin the crankshaft almost to the maximum speed. Other signs also appear: sluggish acceleration from a standstill, difficulties in picking up speed when overtaking, etc. In this case, increased exhaust smoke may be observed, but extraneous noises under the hood during operation power plant missing - it works smoothly and quietly. So what happened, why is the car not pulling?
When the engine pulls hard uphill...Causes of power loss common to all types of engines
If there are no other signs of deterioration in engine operation, except for loss of traction, it is worth conducting a comprehensive check, which consists in testing power unit"method of exclusion".
Poor quality fuel
In about 50% of cases, the "culprit" of the loss of traction is fuel. Due to its low quality or inappropriate octane number (OC), the engine does not develop power.
You can determine that the wrong fuel is in the car tank by a number of signs:
- The engine started getting worse.
- There was a detonation. This symptom is most pronounced if the fuel with the required octane rating is diluted with gasoline with a lower octane rating.
- When examining spark plugs turned out of the cylinder block (BC), one can see black or reddish (brick) color deposits that are uncharacteristic for serviceable parts, which indicates the presence of unnecessary impurities. The first option suggests that gasoline does not burn completely, the second confirms the presence of additives containing metal.
- Inefficient candles. This can be determined during a sharp increase in speed, when the engine does not have a margin for further acceleration. Candles can be clogged due to low-quality fuel or simply exhausted.
Solving the problem is not difficult: low-quality fuel should be drained and the tank filled with suitable fuel with the required octane. Clean the candles from soot, and if their service life has come to an end, replace them with new ones, all at once, complete from one manufacturer. When soot appears, you will again have to deal with the diagnosis of the cylinder-piston group (CPG) and (or) the fuel system.
It is better to refuel at trusted gas stations Dirty air and fuel filters
If the first of them is clogged and does not pass air well, the mixture will turn out to be excessively rich, that is, there will be a lot of fuel in it, which will cease to burn completely. As a result, the thrust of the engine will drop. If the fuel filter is dirty, the result in terms of the operation of the power unit will be the same, only with the difference that the mixture will become very poor, because there will be little gasoline in it. Premature contamination of the air filter may be caused by the operation of the machine in dusty conditions, and the fuel filter may be caused by poor fuel quality.
Violation of the valve timing
The main parts of the gas distribution mechanism (timing) are the intake and exhaust valves. They are “obliged” to open and close only at the right moment in order to fuel mixture entered the cylinders on time, and the exhaust gases were removed. This process is called phase distribution. If it is violated, you will see that the power of the engine has disappeared, which will begin to "troit", and sometimes it will not start well.
Causes of violation of the valve timing:
- wear, as well as improper installation, displacement of the chain or timing belt (most often this is a jump by one tooth (link));
- backlash or deformation of the pulley on the crankshaft;
- wear of hydraulic lifters, camshaft and (or) its bed;
- burnout or rupture of the BC head gasket;
- position sensor malfunction camshaft(DPRV).
Recovery normal operation Timing, it is necessary to set the position of the timing shafts and crankshaft according to the marks. If the chain is worn, replace it. The same applies to the camshaft with bed, hydraulic lifters, gasket and DPRV.
Exhaust resistance
Many people think that the only task of the exhaust system is to muffle loud sound and remove exhaust gases. However, in modern cars a catalyst is installed that reduces the level of emissions of harmful substances. With severe contamination of this element or its destruction, the passage of gases is difficult. As a result, the motor runs "like strangled."
In Russia, the problem is solved by elementary removal of the catalyst. However, it must be remembered that in some car models, such an operation will require changes in electronics (programming).
Catalyst removal Violation of the ignition timing
We are talking about the moment of ignition of the combustible mixture. It is this that determines the ignition timing (IG). When it deviates towards increase, the mixture lights up early, towards decrease - late. Both options lead to improper engine operation, incomplete combustion of the mixture, which may be accompanied by pops in the muffler. On injection engines VAZ 2110, 211, 212, 214, 215 (there is also a classic with an injector, for example, VAZ 2107) UOZ is set automatically, on carburetor VAZ 2101-2106, 07, 08, 09 (the last two models can be with an injector) it needs to be set manually.
Signs of a violation of the POP:
- difficult start of the engine;
- increase in fuel and oil consumption;
- drop in pick-up and power of the power unit;
- unstable operation of the internal combustion engine idling;
- the car responds badly when you press the gas pedal.
UOZ adjustment on an injection engine
Here everything is controlled by electronics. First you need to make sure that it is functioning properly and that the sensor is working. throttle valve. At idle, it should be ajar by about 1% (if this is not the case, set up a mechanical drive), the normal voltage at its contacts is 0.45-0.55 V (the auto network should output 13-14.3 V). When you sharply press the gas pedal, the damper should open by 90 ”, and the voltage on the sensor should increase to 4.5 V. If this is not the case, you need to adjust the damper drive and check the sensor (TPPS) for proper operation.
To do this:
- take the tester and put it in the voltage measurement position;
- disconnect the connector from the sensor - you will see three contacts - one goes to ground, the other to the computer (which one is connected to, determine from the diagram);
- start the motor and check the supply voltage - it should be about 5 V;
- turn off the engine and switch the tester to the resistance measurement mode;
- with the damper closed, between the ground and the contact going to the computer, the device should show 0.8-1.2 kOhm;
- with the damper open, the resistance is 2.3-2.7 kOhm.
If the received data does not match the above parameters, the sensor must be replaced. If that doesn't work, check the ECU.
Setting UOZ on carburetor engines
The easiest and most effective way is to use a conventional 12-volt light bulb.
Action algorithm:
- Turn the crankshaft pulley until the marks match (on the cover - this is the central risk) using a special spanner wrench. If it is not there, turn on 4th speed and push the car until the marks match.
- From the ignition interrupter (distributor), disconnect the thin wire going to the coil and attach a light bulb to it, the second contact of which is connected to ground.
- Loosen the nut securing the distributor (usually it is a turnkey on "13").
- Turn on the ignition, make sure that the lamp is on, and slowly turn the distributor around its axis until it goes out.
- Now turn the distributor again until the light flashes, and immediately tighten the distributor nut.
Malfunctioning spark plugs
The planned replacement of these elements of the ignition system is carried out after 20-30 thousand kilometers. If the candles are platinum, the resource increases to 100 thousand km. However, the situation when candles (most often one of them) fail prematurely is not uncommon.
You can see and hear it for a number of signs:
- the engine starts with difficulty, especially in winter;
- idling is unstable, the tachometer needle jumps, the engine may stop periodically;
- during the operation of the power unit, increased vibration is observed, for example, the gearshift lever is shaking;
- weak acceleration dynamics - the car does not develop full power, it “dulls”;
- when you press the accelerator, “dips” are noticeable;
- fuel consumption has increased.
When one spark plug fails, experienced drivers say that the engine is "troit", that is, only 3 out of 4 cylinders work.
To find the faulty part, you need:
- put on dielectric rubber gloves;
- with the engine running, disconnect one by one high voltage wire from each candle;
- at the same time, the nature of the operation of the motor should change, the speed should fall, but if this did not happen, then the cylinder does not work - the candle does not form a spark.
It is worth finding out the reason for the poor performance of the part, it is quite possible that it is defective. If other candles subsequently begin to fail, you will have to look for the cause elsewhere - CPG or fuel system.
Compression reduction
Often, the reasons for the loss of engine power can be associated with the banal wear of the power unit. Do not forget that a car aged about 100 thousand kilometers begins to lose its power by 10-15%. If you think that the losses are excessive, you need to check the compression. Its nominal value is indicated in the documentation for the machine. For testing, you will need an inexpensive device - a compression gauge, which is a pressure gauge mounted on a hollow tube or connected to a rubber hose equipped with a tip. It is screwed into the cylinder block instead of a candle. Next, disconnect the high voltage wire from the ignition coil. Scroll the crankshaft with a starter and note the highest reading of the compression gauge. The operation must be repeated for each cylinder.
Compression test A pressure below that specified in the instructions by more than 15% indicates wear on the rings, pistons, cylinder block walls, and valves. To solve the problem, you can bore the BC to the repair size, replace the piston rings, grind (or replace) the valves.
Automatic transmission malfunctions
One of the tasks of the gearbox is to transmit torque to the wheels. And if this process is disturbed, then the engine does not gain momentum. You hit the gas and the acceleration is sluggish. The whole thing may be in the slipping of the automatic transmission.
There are several reasons for this:
- low-quality or not what the manufacturer recommends gear oil;
- clogged filters;
- clogged channels of the valve body;
- faulty solenoids (in this case, slippage is observed “hot”);
- clutch wear (maximum service life 200-300 thousand km);
- problem with the control unit.
Most of the above malfunctions in a garage are difficult to fix. Therefore, you will have to use the services of a specialized technical station.
If the carburetor engine does not pull
Carburetor - mechanical device for cooking combustible mixture from fuel and air. If in this mechanism the proportions of the components are violated, then the engine does not pull.
You need to adjust the carburetor in stages:
- Jets. Check their calibration - the air supply part must have a larger diameter than the one through which the fuel enters.
- Throttle valve. When you press the gas, it should open completely (if this is not the case, adjust the drive).
- Ignition system. Her contact option was discussed above. For check contactless system, turn on the ignition and look at the voltmeter dashboard- his arrow will approach "12", and in a second it will rise higher. If you don't have a voltmeter, substitute a known-good switch and check the ignition system again.
Regular carburetor Why there is a loss of power of the injection engine
A feature of this motor is a gasoline pump that works like an electric motor. If it does not work properly, the engine speed will be unstable in all ranges. That is, the fuel will be supplied unevenly, which will lead to a drop in the power of the power unit. The pump may not work well due to a dirty filter - it must be checked and cleaned if necessary. Another reason for the loss of power of the injection engine is the inefficient operation of the nozzles, which become contaminated during operation. It is necessary to carry out diagnostics using a special (even home-made) stand and clean the parts or replace them with new ones. The next reason is the incorrect operation of the electronics. It can be sensors or the ECU itself. In the latter case, it is recommended to install a serviceable unit or go to the service station.
If you have any questions - leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them.
Modern engines are more powerful, more fuel efficient and less polluting than those of the past. So when the behavior of your engine changes, it immediately becomes noticeable. When a car "loses power" it says something is wrong. This must be immediately clarified, as it can be the cause of an emergency on the way.
For example: You are damaged brake pads and you didn't notice it. When driving, they can cause a fire in the wheel, as brake fluid is a combustible material. Or, the fuel filter is clogged with dirt. This can lead to damage to the fuel pump, which will start to work with an increased load. These are two examples of the main causes of loss of power in your car. But there may be other reasons, how to identify them, we will consider below:
Scanning trouble codes - must be done if the engine warning light on the instrument panel lights up. If not, then proceed to the next step.
So, the “check engine” caught fire, you need to perform self-diagnosis or connect the scanner to the diagnostic connector. It should be noted that the vehicle control system records an error that appears again when the engine is started a second time.
If the engine is running normally, then the existing code may itself be cleared from memory. There are times when the engine feels like something is wrong, and the light does not light up. It's just that some malfunctions cannot be detected by a computer. 
For example: if the intake or exhaust valves are not working correctly, the computer will not determine this, since this is a malfunction not related to the sensors.
Checking the air filter- polluted air filter reduces air supply to create fuel- air mixture. This leads to a drop in engine power and increased fuel consumption. Also, the quality of the air filter material affects the operation of the engine. Don't go cheap because possible repair engine can be more expensive. There are many stories about how a non-original or cheap filter was installed, later it broke, and behind it the MAF sensor and rings on the pistons failed along the chain. To check your air filter, open the hood, remove the filter element from the housing and evaluate the condition. If necessary, replace it.
fuel filterR— under a certain condition, the fuel filter can supply less fuel to the system, and this, in turn, is reflected in the power. To check it, it is necessary to dismantle and drain the remaining fuel. Blow out the filter in the direction of fuel flow in the system. A clean filter blows easily. If it is difficult or impossible to blow through, throw it away without regret and remember that it can ruin your fuel pump.
Check the pressure in the fuel system and at the pressure regulator - the fuel pump is in the gas tank if you're the lucky owner of an electronic injection car, or on the engine if you still have a car with a carburetor. For many cars, deterioration in performance is associated precisely with the fuel pump. Some cars have a special connector on the fuel line to check the pressure. If you don't have it, you'll have to apply 
some effort to connect the pressure gauge. You can find the pressure value in the line in your engine. Your line has a special regulator that resets excessive pressure in the line back to the gas tank. It may be incorrectly configured or even leak. It can be checked with an air pump, gradually increasing the pressure to passport. If, before reaching it, the regulator opens, then replace it.
Check the ignition system - what is the ignition timing. In what condition are the candles, high-voltage wires. More detailed instructions according to the check is in to the engine. Remember the main thing, do not rely on your own experience or fragmentary knowledge. Having missed any nuance, you can spoil any element of the system. For example, ignition coils.
The sensor of the expense or pressure of air - these sensors help electronic unit engine management to determine how much air the engine consumes and how much fuel must be supplied to form a fuel-air mixture. If the sensors are faulty, then the computer may incorrectly calculate the amount of fuel, and you eat badly accordingly. But why, then, does the light bulb not light up? The computer is programmed for a short circuit or an open sensor. If the sensor does not work correctly, then the computer can only tell you that the fuel system does not have the correct mixture formation and that's it. You will have to find the source yourself. For this, there are special guides on the stages of checking components. What parameters should the sensor have, see the manual.
Checking the timing chain or belt the crankshaft and the timing shaft must rotate synchronously, for this they need 
these belts or chains. You just need to match all the marks that you have on the belt and gears. There are times when the belt jumps one tooth or the chain stretches. But with the proper level of service, you will be protected from this scourge.
Examination exhaust system for lock- modern engines are very complex and automakers are trying to make their cars less harmful to the environment. One of the components of such a system is a catalyst installed in exhaust system. For some, it can be located directly near the engine, for 
others, somewhere under the body. But one thing is constant, he is. When using dirty fuel, which is sold in abundance at our gas stations, over time, the catalyst breaks down and blocks the normal flow of exhaust gases. You can check its performance either using remote thermometers (the temperature after the catalyst should be slightly higher) or by pressure before and after the catalyst. If you are deprived of such opportunities, then it remains only to remove it and look at the light. If it is clogged, then it is better to replace it, of course, but there are practically no conscious individuals who are ready to part with a large amount of money, they simply knock it out.
Check compression- To do this, you will need a compression gauge with a pressure gauge that you trust to be accurate. Over time, the rings on the pistons grind off and the compression in the cylinders drops, this has its effect on the operation of the engine and its start. However, rings are not the only cause of poor compression. If the mechanism valves 
Timing belts do not fit snugly into their seats, then there will also be a bad result. To identify the source of poor compression, after the first compression measurement, add a few grams of engine oil to the cylinder and measure again. If the compression has risen, then the rings are to blame. If not, valves. True, when measuring compression, your battery must be well charged, otherwise all efforts will go in vain. It is better to screw in the compression gauge instead of spark plugs, than to use a rubber seal. More convenient.
If all of the above points have passed the tests, then it remains only to check the transmission.
Transmission check- sometimes the engine develops enough power, but it doesn't actually reach the wheels. If, while driving, you hear that the engine is running hard, and at the same time you do not feel the cheerfulness of the car, slipping is possible. automatic transmission or side blocking brake system. You can determine this by running the car, when driving on a horizontal section of the road, move the gear selector to the "D" position and look at the behavior of the car. If he tries to immediately slow down, then look at the brakes. If not, then you need to think about visiting the service station and checking the machine. Previously, of course, you yourself can, at least conduct a parking test.
To perform the parking test, you will need clear space in front of you and a tachometer. It is necessary to warm up the car engine, then tighten the hand brake. Press your foot on the brake pedal and move the gear selector to position "D". Without releasing the brake pedal, press the gas pedal and watch the tachometer reading. If the speed is around 2000 (for cars with a turbine about 2200), then everything is fine. If more / less than this number, then you still have to go to the service station to check the machine. The test is done for a few seconds and then necessary engine to run at idle speed. Clear space in front of you is necessary in case you have bad brakes.
Often, beginners and not only drivers are interested in why the car does not accelerate and does not pull. As a rule, such a problem is associated with the engine. At the first sign of a malfunction, it is advisable to conduct a detailed diagnosis of the engine. This will save you from a long search for a breakdown. Almost anything can cause a lack of thrust in a motor.
Often this is faced by owners of new cars. If the diagnostics fail to identify the problem, then you will have to suffer a little. It is connected and will pass to a run of 5000 km. This is most often found in models for which components are assembled in China.
Part wear
Why is the car not accelerating and not pulling? In some cases, this may be due to high levels of engine wear. Usually observed on fairly old machines. Most often, rings suffer, in connection with this, compression drops. Therefore, the first thing to do when reducing power is. If at least in one cylinder the indicator is less than 11, then you will have to do overhaul engine.
Sometimes a decrease in engine power indicates the presence of carbon deposits on the valves, this can only be checked by removing the cylinder head. Indirect signs:- Change in the ratio of gases in the exhaust;
- Burning on the panel "check".
Filters
Often the car jerks due to lack of fuel. Fuel filters are installed in every car. Usually there are two. The coarse filter is either in the fuel pump, or it is embedded in the hose. The fine filter is installed in front of the injector. If any of these cleaning devices become clogged, fuel cannot enter the injector in sufficient quantity. Which in turn dramatically reduces the efficiency of the car.
Often in summer clogged air filter. In this case, the mixture is poorly enriched with oxygen, and the fuel does not burn completely. The result is a loss of power. To avoid such problems, it is necessary to replace the filter elements in a timely manner.
Ignition
A modern engine is quite sensitive to the operation of the ignition. Incorrect gap on the electrodes of the spark plugs can lead to failures in the operation of the motor. And, accordingly, to reduce engine power. Therefore, always. You also need to check their performance on a special stand. It can also be done in a simple but reliable way.
To do this, the candle is unscrewed. A high-voltage wire is put on it, after which the engine is scrolled with a starter. The quality of the spark is determined visually. It should be white and blue. If the spark is red or yellow, it is considered to be of poor quality. You should look for a problem in the ignition system. Most likely, this will be the reason for the loss of power.
Diagnostics
For a more accurate definition of the problem, it is desirable. This procedure will help identify problems with sensors and the operation of the power system. To do this, you will need a laptop with a special program. Having deciphered the readings, you need to start troubleshooting. Most often, the reasons may be the following:
- Position Sensor Malfunction crankshaft. With this fault, the “ check engine". The decrease in power occurs due to a mismatch between the pulse supplied to the engine control unit and the actual position of the crankshaft. As a result, incomplete combustion of the fuel occurs, and the efficiency of the motor decreases;
- . This problem can also affect engine power;
- The reason may appear due to. In this case, the "check" will not light up. Therefore, in any case, you need to make a diagnosis.
Conclusion. As you can see, there are enough reasons for the problem and they are all quite diverse. Offhand, not a single auto repairman can say why the car does not accelerate, does not pull. In any case, you will have to carry out thorough and painstaking work on diagnosing and finding the causes of the malfunction.
Sufficient engine power - necessary condition for normal vehicle operation. But what to do when the diesel does not pull, although not "colorful" smoke? Yes, nothing - rather call in our service center. But first, find out the possible theoretical reasons for this phenomenon, so as not to suspect mechanics of “auto-deception”, which costs extra money.
What is needed for a diesel engine to work "in full"
Most often, even when there is no white, black or blue smoke, the motor does not develop full power. This happens sometimes due to a decrease in the patency of the coarse fuel filter in the tank of the car, and a decrease in the patency of the fine fuel filter. Of course, most motorists are in awe of their car and therefore, having traveled exactly as much as the manufacturer indicated, they are in a hurry to change the filters in good faith.
That's just often automakers can not even imagine that diesel fuel may contain water or dirt in such quantities.
Therefore, the first and main rule: if you want the engine to pull "to the fullest" - change the fuel filter at least after half the mileage specified by the manufacturer.
This is especially true when refueling somewhere far from major cities. However, you can come to us, and we will help not only with repair of injection pump or other units, but also modernizing the fuel system, making it less vulnerable to our fuel.
To make sure that the reason for the loss of power by a diesel engine is low-quality fuel, you need to change the factory opaque fuel line connecting the high-pressure fuel pump to the fuel filter with a transparent auto hose. After changing the hose and fuel filter be sure to bleed the fuel system, removing excess air.
After completing all these requirements, start the engine. If the fuel filter is clogged, you will see air bubbles circulating in the clear hose. By increasing the engine speed, the number of bubbles will visually increase significantly.
Air bubbles in the fuel system are the cause of interruptions in the operation of the motor (engine "troit"). In this case, there is a loss of power.
What to do when the engine "troit" only at high speeds
If at medium and idle speeds you have no complaints about work diesel engine, and when switching to high revs the motor starts to "troit" (which, of course, does not allow it to work at nameplate power), then you should think about:
- malfunctions of the gas distribution mechanism of the engine (timing);
- turbocharger malfunctions;
- loss of fuel filter patency (when it is literally clogged with dirt).
To find a specific cause, again, start with the fuel fine filter - it may be time to replace it. Disconnect the fuel hose from the filter fitting and lower it into a can of clean diesel fuel.
Now start the engine, and if it runs like a clock at any speed, then the cause of unstable operation was just a dirty fine fuel filter. Which means it's time to replace it. If the problem persists, try again to clean the coarse filter from dirt. And bleed the fuel system again.
If, after additional cleaning of the filters, the engine stubbornly troit at a speed above average, then check the compression. It can decrease as a result of a violation of the functionality of the valve mechanism, including due to a malfunction of the hydraulic compensators (when one of them jammed due to dirty oil) and the cylinder-piston group.
In a word, there are plenty of reasons for the motor not to work at full power. And in order to make the right (and the lowest price) decision, it’s easier and cheaper to visit our auto center in order to forget once and for all that your diesel engine “doesn’t pull”. So don't put off until tomorrow what you should have done the day before yesterday. nozzle repair or engine diagnostics.