Changed gur steering wheel does not spin. Stiff or light steering after power steering fluid change

Good day! Faced a problem that I can not solve for the second week. After changing the power steering fluid, the steering wheel began to turn hard.

Below I describe the entire process.

From the moment of purchase, the power steering pump was damp, and the liquid was at the MIN mark. That hands have reached the replacement of the gland and, accordingly, the replacement of manure.

ENEOS ATF Dexron III fluid - 522 rubles Corteco 19029685B seal (dimensions 19.05 x 33.3 x 7.9 mm) - 174 rubles

Did, like everyone here, who changed the stuffing box. Dropped the front wheels. Drained the fluid from the reservoir. Unscrewed and removed the clamps. Took off the tubes. I drained all the liquid from them by turning the steering wheel back and forth. Unscrewed the pipes from the pump. I drained everything that was there from them. I removed the pump. I took everything apart in parts. I squeezed out the old stuffing box. I cleaned the insides of the pump. Hammered a new oil seal with a socket head.

Full size

New Corteco 19029685B oil seal

I assembled all the parts of the pump in reverse order. I screwed the pump into place and pulled the belt. I screwed the pipes to the pump. I washed the tank and put it in place. I attached the hoses to the tank. I replaced the clamps with new ones. I slowly filled the new fluid into the reservoir up to the MAX mark.

Full size

ENEOS ATF Dexron III Fluid

Then he started pumping. First he turned the wheel. Then he threw off the power from the ignition coil and twisted the starter for 10 seconds and at the same time turned the steering wheel. The liquid was gone. Added fresh.

As the liquid stopped leaving, I connected the power to the coil. Continue pumping with the engine already running. After several attempts, the liquid almost did not go away. But the air bubbles still remained. Turned the steering wheel again 50 in one direction and the other. The air was still coming out. The goo foamed up. The day was coming to an end and we had to go home. I spat on this case and lowered the car. The steering wheel seemed to be without hydracha. The next day I went to pump the system, but no matter how I turned the steering wheel, nothing really changed. Twisted 100 times in all modes and with the engine running and not running. Air bubbles still came out but not as much.

Now I'm sitting here thinking what the options might be. Is it in the air? How long in this case it still pump? I think how many times I have already turned the wheel, he was already out a long time ago. Already thought to remove the pump to see if there is something wrong. Although it seems to have collected everything as it was. I don't know what to think anymore.

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I changed the power steering fluid, the steering wheel stopped spinning ((([Archive]

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slopgib, you can't do without a repair. quit with fluid change:-sy

while I put the meter copper tube(cooler) into the gap in the return line from the rail, but what would happen without cooling? by the way, it doesn’t buzz when cold. I don’t have a cooler, the manufacturer considered it superfluous. Once I even burned myself on the tank of the gur, I wanted to try whether the liquid was very hot. These are the working conditions, go nuts .... The liquid is filled with ravenol SSF semi-synth. Gur is working fine, pah-pah-pah)))

I do not have a cooler, the manufacturer considered it superfluous. Once I even burned myself on the tank of the gur, I wanted to try whether the liquid was very hot. These are the working conditions, fuck off ..

put on a cooler! a tube for 10 and a piece of oxygen hose is all you need, well, clamps, of course. I installed it behind my intercooler.

Well, you can still argue... G004... this is G004. and apart from VAGovtsev no one knows what it is !!! why argue? replacing the original according to all reference books is definitely Febi 6161, and it says Febi 6162 synthetics does not have VAG approval at all: mrgreen:, but being a mineral water (thicker) in dead systems gives an improvement, and in fact fill in transmissions and it will become even better

Not long ago I changed the power steering pump, filled it with 6161, everything is finevosmilie:

slopgib, you can't do without a repair. tie it up with a fluid change: -sy can you give a hint on where to start repairing if it spins easily on a cold one?:-k

Can I have a hint on where to start repairing, if it spins easily on a cold one? :-k with replacing the pump, I think.

29.06.2011, 22:35

Lei! Do not worry! Yes, after reading the posts that it gets worse for everyone with her, so I'm afraid now ..

My mileage is already 180, and it’s not a fact that my native ..

Yes, after reading the posts that it’s getting worse for everyone with her, so I’m afraid now .. I would be afraid too: mrgreen: or rather, I did just that - flooded the orig ... an overpayment of 100-200r for the original liquid is not critical, despite the fact that it is known that many had problems with non-original fluids ... after all, you don’t need to change it so often with a working system ...

kroilovo leads to popadalov ... and then you will have to overpay much more: mrgreen:

despite the fact that it is known that many had problems with non-original slurry ... so last year I filled in the original from febi and the problems started, then it buzzes and grunts, before that there was a slurry left from the step-up yellow, there were no problems , only it darkened over time and I changed it once a year because of this (cheaper). think about it after that :-k

Filled the original from febi How so? It's either febi or orig.

This is the whole topic, pour orig.

It's either febi or orig. +100500 binge: That's the whole point, pour orig. i changed it in the winter ... the steering wheel in the cold, as soon as you start it was tight, it warmed up a little - it became normal ... it felt distinctly at -25 ... changed to orig (orig from VW: mrgreen :) and everything became normal, the steering wheel turned perfectly even at -30 I didn’t have to wait ... they told me that some of the hoses vomited due to the fact that they immediately began to turn the steering wheel in the cold ...

There was an idea to find out what was in the original, but I didn’t find a clear answer ... and they advised me not to even experiment because of 200 rubles ... even when replacing every two years, an overpayment of 200-300 rubles is about nothing, but you know for sure that slurry normbinge:

30.06.2011, 21:37

I would be afraid too: mrgreen: or rather, I did just that - flooded the orig ... an overpayment of 100-200 rubles for orig slurry is not critical, despite the fact that many people have had problems with non-original slurry ... it's not so often to change it it is necessary with a working system ... kroilovo leads to popadalov ... and then you will have to overpay much more: mrgreen: Duc comrades from the forum convinced me that instead of G002000 ONLY Febi 06162, and no G0040000M2.

That's why I already bought Febi .. where to put it now? ..

passatworld.ru

The power steering wheel is spinning tight: possible causes. Power Steering Repair

Today, not a single car can do without a power steering (GUR), the equipment of which was carried out with a focus on the modern level of driving comfort. The hydraulic mechanism facilitates the physical control of the machine while maintaining the optimum degree of feedback and compliance with safety requirements.

This is achieved by introducing an auxiliary mechanism into the steering wheel system, the technical condition of which must be regularly monitored. If, after a certain time of using the machine with such equipment, deviations in the operation of the mechanism are noticed, then one should prepare for its repair. For example, if the steering wheel with power steering is spinning tightly, there may be several options for getting out of the situation. But first, you should consider the design of the mechanism and the principle of its operation.

The hydraulic booster system is multi-component, but closed. In part, such a device is due to the complexity of repairing the structure. A typical mechanism includes a pump, a reservoir with liquid in the form of a tank, a pressure regulator, a power block and a spool. The pump is connected to the drive system of the machine's engine, and the pressure regulator ensures that the force flow is balanced relative to the spool. The operating pressure drop depends on the amount of control fluid.

It is this part of the functionality that in most cases leads to malfunctions, due to which it is necessary to repair the power steering in the form of correcting the position of individual parts of the structure or by updating the oil. In turn, the hydraulic cylinder interacts with the steering rack, transmitting additional force. In order to balance the final load required to bring the steering into activity, the spool itself is installed on the column - in the future it will respond to the torque when the driver performs manipulations.

The feeling of heaviness when steering the steering wheel does not always appear abruptly and at one moment. This can be a long process during which warning signs may appear. In particular, the initial diagnostics will help to detect the problem of the formation of leaks, noise and excessive vibrations. Over time, a tight steering wheel will be added to this list, if the same flow is not stopped, and the fluid supply is replenished. Of course, the above signs may also indicate the appearance of other problems, and not only with the hydraulic booster. Therefore, a general diagnosis in this case will not be superfluous. It will also allow you to more accurately determine the possible cause of the weighting of the steering wheel.

The main causes of tight steering

There are many factors that can lead to difficulty in the operation of the steering wheel due to the hydraulic booster. Each of them has its own approach to repair. One of the most common reasons is the presence of air in the niches of the hydraulic booster. Its presence not only eliminates main function mechanism, but also has the opposite effect, making the movements of the steering wheel heavier.

Another common cause is the aforementioned emptying of the expansion tank with liquid. If, however, it was not possible to determine the reason why the steering wheel with a hydraulic booster is spinning tightly, then it makes sense to refer to the technical condition of the individual components of the system. For example, wear on parts, especially the drive belt, could indirectly cause a decrease in hydraulic function. In this case, a complete revision of the mechanism and, possibly, its replacement cannot be avoided. Do not exclude the possibility of a malfunction in the steering wheel itself. For example, a rail in terms of linkage with a gearbox can cause even more trouble in terms of repair.

How to disassemble a tight steering wheel?

To ascertain the reasons for which the weighting of the steering wheel action could occur, the mechanism should be disassembled. The event begins with the disconnection of pipelines that lead to the expansion tank and steering system. At this stage, you can drain the liquid. Next removed drive belt from the pump - again, if it is in an unusable condition, then you will have to put on a new tape.

Here, three blocks for fixing the pulley suitable for the pump unit are unscrewed. But depending on the type of fastener system, there may be more. After that, access to the fixing elements of the pump itself may open. As you can see, power steering repair can be done already at this stage by replacing the fluid, updating the hoses and the drive belt. But this may not be enough. Special attention should be paid to the filter system. Even if it performs its function properly, a violation during the cleaning stage cannot be ruled out, which cannot be determined in garage conditions. Therefore, if there are no other obvious causes of the problem, it makes sense to check the filters in a professional workshop.

Getting rid of excess air

If the reason is the presence of excess air in the system, then in a sense we can talk about luck. True, and here everything is ambiguous. Most often, this problem is solved by several turns of the steering wheel, brought to the stop. Moreover, this action is performed in both directions. As practice shows, this allows you to push out excess air from the hydraulic communications. But if even after this action the steering wheel is hard to turn, then the tank is more likely to be aired. This means that the system works with a liquid in which bubbles are present. This factor determines the lack of ease in handling the steering wheel. A complete renewal of the fluid in the expansion tank will help eliminate this problem.

Fluid replacement

To do this, it is not necessary to make a complete analysis of the mechanism. First of all, two pipes leading to the expansion tank should be released from the clamps. Also, if necessary, additional fasteners and belt communications are removed, due to which access to the tank is difficult.

Direct fluid replacement can be performed without completely dismantling the tank. The spent mixture is simply pumped out, after which it remains to pour in new auto chemicals. However, if the steering wheel with a hydraulic booster is spinning tightly, which has not been checked for a long time, then it is advisable to dismantle the tank for subsequent diagnostics. It should be checked for leaks, then rinsed thoroughly and rinsed with clean water. The dried tank is installed in its place, filled with a new working fluid and fixed with fasteners.

The issue of choosing a fluid for the power steering also imposes considerable responsibility. It is desirable to give preference to synthetic hydraulic mixtures made from high quality components. Ordinary engine oil is not suitable in this case. The features of specialized compositions include a sufficient degree of fluidity, viscosity and the ability to work at extreme temperatures.

Often, problems of this kind occur precisely in winter, when the filled liquid simply does not cope with its tasks due to freezing. Therefore, the question of which oil should be poured into the power steering should only be decided in favor of special synthetic or semi-synthetic mixtures, which usually have a dark green tint. If we talk about manufacturers, then high-quality auto chemicals of this type are produced by Motul, Castrol, Pentosin, Liqui Moly etc. The cost of the liquid is about 800-1000 rubles, but even a small canister will last for a long time, so you should not save on this resource.

How to replace a heavy steering wheel?

The dismantling of the system begins with the aforementioned disconnection of all pipelines, pipes and fasteners. It is also mandatory to drain or pump out the oil poured into the expansion tank. Installation new system produced in reverse order. If we are talking about a complete update of the steering complex, then in this case you will have to dismantle the rack itself. Such a replacement of the power steering should be carried out in conditions where there is an assembly leveling stand. The installation begins with the integration of the steering wheel, and then the hydraulic components are integrated one by one. Lastly, the working fluid is poured, and the elements of communication support are brought in.

Conclusion

The steering wheel control system itself is quite complex and often causes problems precisely with identifying the reasons for its incorrect operation. In the event that the power steering wheel of a car with flat tires is spinning tightly, it is quite possible that the problem will lie precisely in insufficiently inflated tires.

In this situation, the difficulty is already connected with the mechanics of the interaction of rubber with the coating, the effect of which is transmitted even to serviceable hydraulics. Also, the function of the amplifier can be affected by insufficient tension of the drive belt. That is, before proceeding with repair work, the user must make a complete inspection of the car for the presence of factors that may affect the operation of the steering rack.

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Tight power steering wheel - logbook Daewoo Espero =REAL-REMI= 1998 on DRIVE2

Guys tell me what could be the matter. In general, a month ago, the liquid began to leave, there were smudges at the exit from the barrel where the thick pipe was. I thought it was a clamp, I changed it anyway ... I decided to buy a new hose, it flows again ... I took off the tank and started looking at it and saw a small crack in that place. I sealed it with superglue)) it lasted for 3 weeks and it leaked again. Yesterday I bought a tank and liquid MANNOL DEXRON III, but the problem is that I don’t remember which of the two I filled in ... either DEXRON III or DEXRON II ... but as I was told, in principle, III differs in a higher class and there will be nothing to worry about if II was flooded ... but maybe I filled III and)) In short, before all the procedures, the steering wheel turned 30-40 percent easier than after. Yesterday I replaced the tank, by and large most of the liquid was drained and filled with a new one ... after it started, pumped it (the steering wheel back and forth all the way as before), filled it up to the MAX level ... there are no bubbles in the tank, the gur does not buzz like everything is OK. Right now, I left in the morning and immediately noticed that it had become tighter ... that you were standing still, turning (wound up), that it was the same in motion. What can be wrong? The liquid level is now 1 cm higher than the max mark. Can this somehow influence?))) Who is pouring what for himself?

PS Let me remind you once again that before replacing the reservoir, the steering wheel was light; pump and everything...

August 13, 2016

Power steering (GUR) - an integral part of the car, the purpose of which is to optimize handling vehicle and its operation. Comfort, and most importantly, the safety of the driving process, depends on the performance of the hydraulic booster.

Violation normal operation power steering can be triggered by the following malfunctions:

violation of the tightness of the steering system,
hose damage,
natural wear of parts.

All of these facts lead to the fact that a qualified repair is needed.

Troubleshooting Power Steering

Possible reasons why the power steering does not work, and how to fix them, we will consider below.

Reverse shocks on the steering wheel (recoil)

A possible cause is a weak tension in the pump drive belt, or this belt is worn out. Eliminating such a malfunction will not take a significant amount of time and money, because it is necessary to replace the belt or adjust its tension.

Steering wheel spins hard

If the steering wheel with a power steering is spinning tightly, then there may be several reasons for such a malfunction:

weak tension of the pump drive belt (adjust the tension),
low (critical) fluid level in the power steering reservoir (add fluid),
clogging of the power steering reservoir filter (replace the filter),
low operating pressure hydraulic booster pump (replace or repair the pump),
air in the power steering (remove accumulated air and check for leaks).

The fluid in the power steering must be topped up with the one that was originally filled. To do this, it is better to store the container in which the liquid was sold.

Wheel rotation requires effort

The reason for such a malfunction of the power steering is one - a pump malfunction. Elimination - check and repair the pump, replace its seals.

The steering wheel in the middle position turns with great effort

pump malfunction, which can be eliminated by replacing the part or repairing it,
mechanical failure - it is recommended to diagnose the steering system.

Vibration

Possible causes of the malfunction:

mechanical damage, dangerous condition of tires (identify defective tires, repair them or replace them with new ones),
air getting into hydraulic system(remove air, having previously established the cause of its ingress).

Noise at work

Causes of malfunction:

low level of power steering fluid in the tank (fix the leak, check the tightness and add fluid),
damage (wear) of the hoses of the high and low pressure(in this case, check the hoses and replace the failed ones),
accumulation of fluid through the safety valve, accompanied by a whistling sound at the extreme position of the steering wheel (check the operation of the pump, if it fails, replace it).

Fuzzy steering

violation of the geometry of the steering gear (it is necessary to check the condition of the tires),
wear of steering parts (visually check the condition of parts and assemblies, eliminate their malfunctions),
fluid leakage (check for leaks).

As can be seen from the listed malfunctions, most often the power steering does not work well due to fluid leakage, which serves as lubricant. At the same time, the car begins to “buzz” intensely, and when the steering wheel is turned, this rumble intensifies, therefore, when the liquid level drops, it is urgent to look for a leak, otherwise the pump will fail, and this part is a very expensive pleasure.

Power steering, as mentioned above, affects undercarriage car, so good work- the key to a successful trip. In case of suspicion of incorrect operation of the power steering, it is recommended to stop the movement and continue it after the repair of the hydraulic booster.

What to do, if power steering is buzzing? This question is periodically asked by most car owners in whose cars this system is installed. What are the causes and consequences of failure? And is it worth paying attention to it at all?

reasons why is the power steering buzzing, maybe several. extraneous sounds indicate a clear malfunction in the control system. And the sooner you fix it, the more money you will save and not put yourself at risk of getting into an emergency with a faulty steering system in your car.

Hydraulic booster device

Causes of the hum

An unpleasant hum of the power steering can occur under various circumstances. Let's dwell on the most basic reasons why the power steering is buzzing when turning:

Low fluid level in the power steering system. You can check this visually by opening the hood and looking at the oil level in expansion tank GUR. It must be between the MIN and MAX marks. If the level is below the minimum mark, then it is worth adding liquid. However, before that, it is imperative to find the cause of the leak. Especially if a little time has passed since the last topping up. As a rule, a leak occurs at the clamps and at the joints. Especially if the hoses are already old. Before topping up, be sure to eliminate the cause of the leak..
The inconsistency of the filled fluid with the one recommended by the manufacturer. This can cause not only hum, but also more serious malfunctions. Also hum power steering in winter maybe due to the fact that the liquid, although it meets the specification, is not intended for operation in special temperature conditions (with significant frosts).
Dirty power steering fluid
Poor quality or contamination fluids in the system. If you purchased “singed” oil, then it is likely that after some time it will lose its properties and the power steering will start to buzz. As a rule, along with the rumble, you will feel that it has become harder to turn the steering wheel. In this case, be sure to check the quality of the oil. As in the previous case, open the hood and look at the condition of the liquid. If it is significantly blackened, and even more so, crumpled, it is necessary to replace it. Ideally, the color and consistency of the oil should not differ much from new. You can check the condition of the liquid "by eye". To do this, you need to draw a little liquid from the tank with a syringe and drop it onto a clean sheet of paper. Red, magenta burgundy, green, or blue are allowed (depending on the original used). The liquid should not be dark - brown, gray, black. Also check the smell coming from the tank. From there, it should not pull with burnt rubber or burnt oil. Remember that fluid replacement must be carried out in accordance with the schedule approved in the manual of your car (as a rule, it is changed every 70-100 thousand kilometers or once every two years). If necessary, change the oil. List the best liquids for the power steering system, you will find in the corresponding .
Air entering the system. This is a very dangerous phenomenon that is harmful to the power steering pump. Check for foam in the expansion tank of the hydraulic system. If it does, then it is necessary to either replace the fluid.
Steering rack malfunctions. It can also cause hum. It is worth conducting a visual inspection and diagnosis. The main signs of a rail malfunction are a knock in its body or from one of the front wheels. The reason for this may be the failure of the gaskets and / or damage to the anthers of the steering rods, which can cause leakage of the working fluid, dust and dirt on the rail, and knocking. In any case, it is necessary to carry it out with the help of repair kits sold in car dealerships. Or ask for help at the service station.
Do not drive with a defective steering rack, it may jam and cause an accident.
Loose power steering belt. Diagnosing this is pretty easy. The procedure must be performed after the engine has been running for some time (the longer, the easier it is to diagnose). The fact is that if the belt slips on the pulley, then it becomes hot. You can verify this by touching it with your hand. To tension, you need to know the force with which the belt should be tensioned. If you do not have a manual and you do not know the effort, go to the service for help. If the belt is excessively worn, it must be replaced.
Power Steering Pump Malfunction. This is the most annoying and costly breakdown. Its main sign is an increase in the effort with which you need to turn the steering wheel. The reasons that the power steering pump is buzzing can be various failed parts of the pump - bearings, impeller, oil seals. You can familiarize yourself with the methods of diagnosing and repairing power steering in another.

Buzzing power steering on a cold

Troubleshooting power steering and steering rack

There are several reasons why the power steering is buzzing on a cold one. The first is that it goes air suction through low pressure lines. To eliminate it, it is enough to put two clamps on the tube going from the tank to the power steering pump. In addition, it is worth replacing the ring on the suction pipe of the pump itself. After installing the clamps, we recommend that you use an oil-resistant sealant, which you need to lubricate the clamps and joints.

You can also conditionally identify another reason, the probability of which is low. Sometimes there are cases when insufficient (poor-quality) pumping of the power steering system. In this case, an air bubble remains at the bottom of the tank, which is removed with a syringe. Naturally. that its presence can cause the indicated hum.

Elimination methods can be replacing oil hoses and / or rails, replacing the power steering pump, installing additional clamps on all hoses in order to prevent air from entering the system. You can also follow these procedures:

replacement of the sealing ring on the supply spout of the expansion tank;
installation of a new hose from the tank to the pump using an oil-resistant sealant;
perform the procedure for expelling air from the system (when performing the procedure, bubbles will appear on the surface of the liquid, which need to be given time to burst) by turning the steering wheel with the engine not running;

Another repair option is to replace the o-ring in the power steering pressure suction hose (and, if necessary, the hose itself and both clamps). The fact is that over time it loses elasticity and becomes rigid, that is, it loses elasticity and tightness, and begins to let the air that enters the system, causing knocking and foam in the tank. The way out is to replace this ring. Sometimes a problem may arise due to the fact that it is not easy to find a similar ring in a store. But if you find it, be sure to replace it and put it on the mount and lubricate with oil-resistant sealant.

For some machines, a special hydraulic booster repair kit is available for sale. In case of problems with this unit, the first step is to buy a repair kit and change the rubber gaskets that are included in it. Moreover, it is advisable to buy original sets (especially important for expensive foreign cars).

Power steering pump bearing

It is also necessary to monitor lack of dirt in the system fluid. If it is present even in small quantities, over time this will lead to wear of the parts of the power steering pump, due to which it will begin to make unpleasant sounds and work worse, which will be expressed in an increase in effort when turning the steering wheel, as well as a possible knock. Therefore, when changing the fluid, be sure to check if there are any mud deposits at the bottom of the expansion tank. If they exist, you need to get rid of them. Check the filter in the tank (if it has one). It should be relatively clean and intact, fit snugly against the walls of the tank. In some cases, it is better to replace the entire filter tank than to try to clean them. Also in this case, it is necessary to remove the rail, disassemble it, rinse it from dirt, and also replace the rubber-plastic parts. To do this, you need to use the mentioned repair kit.

Unpleasant sound may be emitted power steering pump outer bearing. Its replacement is carried out easily, without the need for complete disassembly of the assembly. However, sometimes it is difficult to find a replacement for him.

There are special additives that are added to the power steering fluid. They eliminate the hum of the pump, relieve stress on the steering wheel, increase the clarity of the power steering, reduce the vibration level of the hydraulic pump, and protect system parts from wear when the oil level is low. However, motorists treat such additives differently. They really help some, they only harm others and bring the time to replace the power steering pump or replace it.

When choosing a fluid, pay attention to its temperature characteristics so that it works normally in significant frosts (if necessary). Insofar as high viscosity oil will create obstacles for the normal operation of the power steering system.

Power steering buzzes on hot

If the hydraulic booster is buzzing when hot, then there may be several problems. Consider several typical situations and methods for their solution.

In the event that it starts during the engine warm-up, it is necessary to replace the pump or repair it using a repair kit.
When a knock appears on a warm engine on low revs, and disappears at high levels - this means that the power steering pump is becoming unusable. There can be two ways out in this case - replacing the pump and pouring a thicker liquid into the power steering system.
If you have filled the system with counterfeit liquid, this may cause it to will lose its viscosity, respectively, the pump will not be able to create the necessary pressure in the system. The way out is to replace the oil with the original one, after flushing the system (pumping with fresh liquid).
Steering rack failure. When heated, the fluid becomes less viscous and may seep through the seals if they are damaged.

Remember that it is better to use the original liquid. This is evidenced by the experience of many car owners. After all, buying counterfeit oil can cause costly repairs to the elements of the power steering system.

Power steering hums in extreme positions

Do not turn the front wheels for a long time

It should be borne in mind that when the wheels are turned all the way, the power steering pump operates at maximum load. Therefore, it may make additional sounds that are not a sign of its malfunction. Some automakers report this in their manuals. It is important to distinguish between emergency noises associated with malfunctions in the system.

However, if you are sure that the sounds that appear are the result of a malfunction in the system, then you need to diagnose. The main reasons that the power steering is buzzing in extreme positions are all the same reasons listed above. That is, it is necessary to check the operation of the pump, the fluid level in the expansion tank, the tension of the power steering belt, and the purity of the fluid. The following situation may also occur.

Usually in the upper part of the gearbox there is a valve box, which is designed to control hydraulic flows. When the wheel is turned to the extreme position, the flow is blocked by the bypass valve, and the liquid passes through the “small circle”, that is, the pump works on itself and does not cool. This is very harmful to him and is fraught with serious damage - for example, scoring on the cylinder or pump gates. In winter, when the oil is more viscous, this is especially true. That's why do not keep the wheels turned out to the stop for more than 5 seconds.

Power steering hums after replacement

Sometimes the power steering starts to buzz after an oil change. Unpleasant sounds can be caused by the pump if the system is thinner oil was filled than it was before. The fact is that between the inner surface of the stator ring and the rotor plates, the output increases. There is also vibration of the plates, due to the presence of uneven surfaces of the stator.

A hum may also occur after replacing the power steering high pressure hose. One of the reasons may be a poor-quality hose. Some service stations sin by the fact that instead of special hoses designed for high pressure and work in the power steering system, it installs conventional hydraulic hoses. This may cause airing system and, accordingly, the occurrence of hum. The remaining reasons are completely similar to the cases listed above (knocking on cold, hot).

In order for the hydraulic booster to work normally and not knock, you must follow a few simple rules:

Monitor the oil level in the power steering system, top up and change it in time. Also, check its status. There is always a risk of buying a low-quality liquid, which becomes unusable after a short time of operation (check its color and smell).
Don't delay too long(more than 5 seconds) wheels in end position(both left and right). This is harmful to the power steering pump, which operates without cooling.
When parking a car always leave the front wheels in a level position (straight). This will take the load off the power steering system the next time the engine is started. This advice is especially relevant in cold weather, when the oil thickens.
In case of occurrence (hum, knock, increased effort when turning the steering wheel) don't delay repairs. You will not only eliminate the breakdown at a lower cost, but also save your car, you and your loved ones from possible emergencies.
Constantly check the condition of the steering rack. This is especially true of the condition of anthers and seals. So you will not only extend its service life, but also save money on expensive repairs.

Conclusion

Remember that if there are the slightest signs of a malfunction in the steering of the machine, and in particular, the power steering system, it is necessary to diagnose and repair as soon as possible. repair work. Otherwise, at the critical moment you risk losing control of the car, when steering will fail (for example, jam steering rack). Do not save on the condition of your car and the safety of you and your loved ones.

06.07.2013, 10:04

Tubers, changed the fluid in the power steering, and it seems that it has become harder to turn the steering wheel: search:
how so? does it happen at all? :search:

Evstafiy

06.07.2013, 10:26

what kind of fluid did you put in?

06.07.2013, 10:37

PSF 2, code 08206-9002, 1 l

Added after 2 minutes 48 seconds
it should be the opposite after the replacement, but it only got worse (((

06.07.2013, 10:47

:russian: campaign correctly say, do not go there. I also wanted to, but now I will think more :sad:

06.07.2013, 10:49

06.07.2013, 10:54

yeah, I agree with you ... I'll try to expel the air again, and then we'll see.
How did you bleed it after replacement?

06.07.2013, 11:04

I had exactly the same bullshit after the change. Only recently solved the problem: changed the drive belt. Although the old one was not very stretched, but after the replacement I immediately felt that the steering wheel turns easier.

But I don’t know how to connect the replacement of the slurry and the belt. But the fact remains...

06.07.2013, 11:06

everything is written here:

Added after 52 seconds
changed drive belt
I will also change it in a week, I have already ordered it, maybe it will help ....

06.07.2013, 11:07

But I don’t know how to connect the replacement of the slurry and the belt. But the fact remains...
well, if the belt is worn out, it can slip corny and it won’t be noticeable. so everything is explainable

06.07.2013, 11:08

After replacing the belt, I will unsubscribe about the solution to the problem.

06.07.2013, 11:08

everything is written here:
1. With the steering wheel in the middle position, start the engine for 10-15 seconds.
2. Stop the engine without rotating wheel.
3. Turn the steering wheel all the way to one side.
4. Turn away the valve of release of air on the steering mechanism.
5. Without wrapping the valve, turn the steering wheel all the way to the other side. This should release air from the valve, followed by fluid.
6. Without touching the steering wheel, wrap the air release valve.
7. Having added oil to the tank, start the engine and turn the steering wheel in both directions until it stops, without holding it in extreme positions. Stop the engine when no more air bubbles appear in the reservoir.

8. Add liquid to a level near the upper mark on the dipstick of the stopper of the non-separable tank ...

9. ... or to the level of the grid in a collapsible tank.

06.07.2013, 11:22

well, if the belt is worn out, it can slip corny and it won’t be noticeable. so everything is explainable

No, no, I mean: why exactly after changing the slurry did it become tighter to spin? After all, before its replacement, everything was fine on the same stretched belt.

06.07.2013, 12:50

did you flush the system? mesh?

06.07.2013, 16:35

No, no, I mean: why exactly after changing the slurry did it become tighter to spin? After all, before its replacement, everything was fine on the same stretched belt.
as a rule, the operator)) of technology always does not agree on something - this is a feature of human nature.

08.07.2013, 08:46

guys, and perhaps from heating the motor, compressor, or why does the steering wheel become tight in place? in the morning on a cold steering wheel it is easy to spin on the spot.

08.07.2013, 10:57

SHTYPMAH, Check your tank, it has a filter at the bottom, it gets dirty with all sorts of dirt ... There are some assholes who tear it (it's not clear why). You can replace the tank with a new one, it is not expensive, the original costs 800 rubles.

08.07.2013, 11:48

Drobovik, I understand. I will watch. It all started after the bulkhead of the current rack.

08.07.2013, 11:54

MoscowMitino, it's easy to check - get up on a warm car, wait a couple of minutes and turn the steering wheel - it will spin easily. Then raise the speed to 3-4 thousand for 5-10 seconds, and once again try to turn the steering wheel at idle, it will be hard to turn. If you wait a couple more minutes, it will spin again.

If so, then the valve, try to pick up the spring and replace it with a tighter one, or sharpen the valve if there are scuffs on it.

08.07.2013, 12:22

this is easy to check - get up on a warm car, wait a couple of minutes and turn the steering wheel - it will spin easily. Then raise the speed to 3-4 thousand for 5-10 seconds, and once again try to turn the steering wheel at idle, it will be hard to turn. If you wait a couple more minutes, it will spin again.

08.07.2013, 13:02

Same problem as MoscowMitino

Added after 3 minutes 37 seconds

When the car is warm, the steering wheel is hard to turn. even if you stand for a couple of minutes or more. it is treated only by cooling the car ... i.e. turn off the engine for 30 minutes or more ... then, while driving around the city, the same problem again, the steering wheel starts to spin tightly ... if the air temperature is 26 degrees or less, then everything is buzzing with the rail ... by the way, this appeared after rail repair after leak...
P.S. maybe a power steering pump repair kit and repair?

The repair kit did not help me (yes and no, you need to order all the rubber bands separately), I replaced all the rubber bands, except for the bearing and the largest rubber band next to it. Do I understand correctly that if you drive at night, at an air temperature of, for example, 15 degrees, then there will be no problems with the steering wheel?

After the pump was overhauled, the power steering stopped working on my warm car. I replaced the upper spring in the pump with a similar one, only oak. It became noticeably better, but the problem was not solved (I have not yet sharpened my valve and have not yet found a suitable lower spring). I took the upper spring in avto49, it is a couple of mm longer and much tighter.

Now after high speed power steering does not work well, but comes off after a couple of minutes. Hence the assumption that this valve is sticking ... Yes .. and also, when you unscrew the plug from the bottom with a hexagon, behind which is the valve with a spring, then if you press on the valve and release it, it should fly into your hand ... I have this not happening

08.07.2013, 13:02

I forgot to add that the steering wheel becomes tight, even if the car just stands running for 30 minutes ... and then go .... on the road, in traffic jams, I also noticed such a thing: I braked, I was standing in a traffic jam on the drive for a minute or two. ..then I turn the steering wheel slightly (it seems to the right) and I hear some kind of click ... I twist it slightly to the right and left, the click is no longer repeated ... it repeats after some time ... maybe 5 minutes, maybe 7 ... etc....

08.07.2013, 13:04

trooman, Try to find a pump for disassembly. Where they give a guarantee for verification. You put it and if it does not work, you will return it back, you will say that it does not work.

On disassembly, the pump is in the region of 6 thousand.

Added after 57 seconds
I forgot to add that the steering wheel becomes tight, even if the car just stands running for 30 minutes ... and then go .... on the road, in traffic jams, I also noticed such a thing: I braked, I was standing in a traffic jam on the drive for a minute or two. ..then I turn the steering wheel slightly (it seems to the right) and I hear some kind of click ... I twist it slightly to the right and left, the click is no longer repeated ... it repeats after some time ... maybe 5 minutes, maybe 7 ... etc....

The clicking noise is most likely a stuck valve.

08.07.2013, 13:05

08.07.2013, 13:27

91370-SV4-000
91349-PNC-J01
91349-PNC-003
91348-P2A-003
91346-PLA-003
91345-RJL-003
91345-PAA-A01
91344-PNC-003
91343-PNC-003
91249-PNC-003
91048-P2A-003 - bearing

This is what I ordered.
You can attach a diagram, and write which gum under which number. It is already on the forum, people wrote.

If I were you, I would first try the option of disassembling and testing the pump.

08.07.2013, 13:31

ok, thanks again!

Added after 11 minutes 24 seconds
Do I understand correctly that if you drive at night, at an air temperature of, for example, 15 degrees, then there will be no problems with the steering wheel?
25 degrees and below. those. at night everything is good :)

08.07.2013, 14:03

08.07.2013, 15:19

so) more interesting. And I thought it was my own fault, because. the slurry left the rack and my pump howled, but I almost immediately topped up the step-up (which was at hand). After a bulkhead, replacing the original slurry and suddenly such garbage with a pump.

Tell me, can you try to get close to the valve without removing the pump?

The hexagon is 10, unscrewed in 5 seconds without removing anything.

Added after 11 minutes 58 seconds
25 degrees and below. those. at night everything is good :)

It's very strange, I've never seen anything like it. I do not have that. The only assumption is that the metal expands when heated and when a certain temperature is reached, the valve expands (it seems to be metal, and the body walls are aluminum ... it seems to me). Either something happens to the slurry when heated (it becomes more liquid, or vice versa - thick).

08.07.2013, 15:49

Drobovik, Thanks for the clarification) I'll try to look

08.07.2013, 17:14

It could also be because of the belt if it slips (but in this case it usually whistles).
The belt whistles in the morning, especially in wet weather and not for long.
When turning the steering wheel, there is no noise.

Added after 2 minutes 56 seconds
Is there a part code for this tank, I will be grateful.

08.07.2013, 17:31

ШTYPMAH, Here is the tank number - 53701-SDA-A01
If the belt whistles, then something is wrong with it. Try splashing water on it when it starts to whistle. If it stops right away, I suggest you replace it. Visually frayed belt?

08.07.2013, 17:59

Here is the tank number - 53701-SDA-A01
Senkyu:friends:
Visually frayed belt?
Like an old whore
I'll change this week, I'm waiting for a s / h

10.07.2013, 08:39

Like an old whore
lol

10.07.2013, 09:55

As for the belt. the belt was changed for me, for the first 2-3 days it whistled ... they explained to me that the working fluid got on it (such as oil or gurg fluid), and it will disappear as soon as the fluid evaporates ... well, it happened, after 2 the whistle has passed. shchaz all in this regard buzzing. can be confused by replacing the belt? or money down the drain?

What kind of krivorukov masters? How could the slurry get on it if they only changed the belt?)) Maybe they just pulled it over?
Why change a new belt again?) This one will work again.

10.07.2013, 11:10

yes, there’s a funny story in general !!!))) they made an engine for me, before me the owner made it at the left masters - the car stood in the service for 2-3 months, while the spare parts were coming ... they changed the wheel, put a used one, but how then it turned out that they put a knee from a 2.0 chord, and I have a 2.4))) well, they dismantled the engine 2 times and then, in fact, they poured something over it))) in general, something like this: search:: smile3:

Added after 1 minute 32 seconds
although I must say that even with a knee from a 2.0 chord, the car drove without troiling, the engine ran smoothly, but not a pearl)))

10.07.2013, 11:18

trooman, in general, of course, the story with the knee is not very funny and turned out. handsome people just

02.08.2013, 13:32

4. Turn away the valve of release of air on the steering mechanism.
Guys, where exactly is this valve located?

02.08.2013, 15:04

I agree with Kolyan's question!)

02.08.2013, 20:44

I noticed one feature in myself, when you stand still at idle, you gently turn the steering wheel by 5-10 degrees, while the speed drops by 100-150, and when the speed stabilizes, the push goes to the steering wheel in the opposite direction, what is it?

02.08.2013, 20:49

Frost174, it's normal when the hydraulics start to put pressure on the steering mechanism under load, the pressure is compensated by the alternator belt and the speed grows so that the gur can turn the wheels

04.08.2013, 11:37

05.08.2013, 07:26

06.10.2013, 17:37

What is the part number for this belt. Something on the existential in the catalog I can’t find it

07.10.2013, 17:56

Tell me about finding the valve, I looked around the whole mechanism, I didn’t see anything resembling a valve.
under the hood on the left
What is the part number for this belt. Something on the existential in the catalog I can’t find it
38920-RBB-E03

07.10.2013, 19:18

The fact that the speed is falling, I agree that this is the norm. But why, after a second, is there a push into the steering wheel in the opposite direction?
the speed should not fall at least - for this there is a sensor on the high pressure hose.
and pushing in the opposite direction is not normal either

22.10.2013, 09:49

The level is normal.
Please help :help:

22.10.2013, 10:13

SHTYPMAH, are you okay with the rail? Doesn't leak, doesn't bite the steering wheel?

22.10.2013, 10:29

Yoklmn ... winter came, it got colder to -5 and now the steering wheel on the cold finally became tight like g @ ndon in Soviet times: pioneer:
Where to drop who will tell? maybe the slurry of the Chinese Lichen? Although I took it in a trusted and well-known store: russian_roulette:
The level is normal.
Please help :help:

To start, do complete replacement slurry, since it is inexpensive .... I met a couple of similar cases here on the forum and after a banal replacement everything went away!
As they say - an attempt is not torture: smile3:

22.10.2013, 10:48

Are you okay with the rack?
tt, it's ok.
does the steering wheel bite?
is this how it is?
Start by doing a complete fluid change.
I'll try! may help.

22.10.2013, 12:00

tt, it's ok.

Is it like this?

22.10.2013, 13:08

This is when you turn the steering wheel, and it turns in jerks, or it’s normal in one direction, but tight in the other, or it pulls the car in one direction with the steering wheel.
Something like this
Pulling the car because of the curves is expensive, and the steering wheel after you pass is spinning easier than in the morning.
And how to check the rail, if everything is visually ok with it and no smudges are visible?

22.10.2013, 17:08

I remembered that I bought the slush for the hydracha in the service, maybe they sold it to g @ noO ..... I’ll change the slurry and write back what and how.

Vyacheslav33

27.10.2013, 15:04

yesterday I changed the fluid in the power steering at 75,000 km and the steering wheel became more noticeable easier to spin here is the original Honda fluid

30.10.2013, 12:26

the cold also came, there was a problem, the steering wheel began to blunt. that is, the gur periodically works, then it doesn’t work at low speeds once every other time it works! help or pump find or repair!

30.10.2013, 12:37

Danil1989, There is a possibility that the problem is in the rail. Replacing the pump and high pressure hose did not help me.

30.10.2013, 12:55

And what about the rake? the pump either works or it doesn't.

30.10.2013, 13:08

I would like to understand this too. Even on a new pump, it also cuts off on idling. Sometimes it's okay.

05.11.2013, 12:03

yes, in kind today on the server they said that such garbage can really happen because of the rail) supposedly there are valves in the rails and they get clogged there and such a drizzle begins!

Added after 1 minute 59 seconds
I’m thinking what to do or climb into the river or change the pump or change the hose too! In short, Honda Kurnula is laid up after 4 days, I have to go far, but Honda let me down (

05.11.2013, 12:15

danil1989, the hose is not native to change exactly. He can kill the pump. I have the last option left is the rake. But I won’t do it anymore, because. after the repair, this badyaga started. Right now, I'll save up for a new machan.

05.11.2013, 13:44

MoscowMitino, I replaced the rail with a restored one, it got better, but the problem was not solved. The pump is coming soon. Replace - I'll tell you.

05.11.2013, 14:11

05.11.2013, 15:06

Drobovik, I hope it helps. Is the pump new or contracted?
Cardone is American from ebay, they rebuild pumps and sell them like new.

05.11.2013, 18:07

and which site is this carbone to order?

06.11.2013, 12:59

danil1989, on ebay dot com search by keywords "
Cardone Industries 21-5419"

I took on a chord 2006 release 2.4 EXE

07.11.2013, 11:01

07.11.2013, 14:23

Is Cardone Industries 21-5419 original? And how can I find it on ebay?

Cardon has never been an original, it's an aftermarket already.
Do not slow down, open Google and look for:

LINK! (http://lmgtfy.com/?q=ebay%20+%20Cardone%20Industries%2021-5419)

07.11.2013, 18:19

07.11.2013, 23:12

But what if we allow the pump to be installed from the accura and ordered from ebay there from 1,500 to 7000? No one has experience?

Pyatnetstso seems to have not yet arrived:pleasantry:

10.11.2013, 11:25

and who put Cardone or some other analogues? here, according to the expert, an analogue for only 5000 MSG gives out! how is he not aware?
http://www.exist.ru/price.aspx?pid=3170A2A6&sr=29&cn=Honda_Accord_%D1%81%D0%B5%D0%B4%D0%B0%D0%BD_VII _2.0

10.11.2013, 16:40

help me choose a good analog existential gives out the current original! gur pump need vin BODY JHMCL76408C203896 honda accord 2007 2.0l 155hp

12.11.2013, 16:41

is it original or similar?

30.09.2014, 14:12

everything is written here:
1. With the steering wheel in the middle position, start the engine for 10-15 seconds.
2. Stop the engine without turning the steering wheel.
3. Turn the steering wheel all the way to one side.
4. Turn away the valve of release of air on the steering mechanism.
5. Without wrapping the valve, turn the steering wheel all the way to the other side. This should release air from the valve, followed by fluid.
6. Without touching the steering wheel, wrap the air release valve.
7. Having added oil to the tank, start the engine and turn the steering wheel in both directions until it stops, without holding it in extreme positions. Stop the engine when no more air bubbles appear in the reservoir.

8. Add liquid to a level near the upper mark on the dipstick of the stopper of the non-separable tank ...

9. ... or to the level of the grid in a collapsible tank.

It could also be because of the belt if it slips (but in this case it usually whistles).

MoscowMitino, you most likely have a problem with the pump, namely with the valve located at the bottom of the pump. He gets stuck in the chute, which he walks up and down.

04.10.2014, 20:28

8. Add liquid to a level near the upper mark on the dipstick of the stopper of the non-separable tank ...

9. ... or to the level of the grid in a collapsible tank.
Tell me, I'm interested in point number 4. What does this AIR EXHAUST VALVE look like in general, otherwise, after reassembling the rack, my steering wheel is like not my own. I filled my own, but not according to the above technology, or rather, not everything is as indicated. I did not hang out the wheels and did not open the air release valve, but everything else was the same.

Added after 7 minutes 11 seconds

What kind of valve, tell me or better a photo of how it looks. I would be grateful and if there are any rules, adhering to which, it is worth turning this valve. I mean the procedure. Thanks in advance

04.10.2014, 21:32

The fluid in the power steering is changed by displacement without any engine start. It's best to do it together. One constantly turns the steering wheel, and the second pours fresh slurry and monitors the old one that flows out. Wait until fresh transparent flows. To replace this, you need 2 liters of slurry. Made sure of this personal experience. If someone says that a liter is enough, then, as they say, the flag is in their hands. But in a good way, rinse more!

The wheels naturally need to be hung out, this greatly speeds up the process. The entire replacement takes 15 minutes!
So no valves need to be twisted, about which I generally hear for the first time. Well, there is no air in the system: smile3:

04.10.2014, 23:29

About how ... Vetal, where do I pour new liquid? If in the reservoir, how will it be pumped into the system without starting the engine?
If only pour immediately into the ShVD)))

Everything is tritely simple:

04.10.2014, 23:59

Everything is tritely simple:

1) raise the front of the machine on both sides so that the front wheels do not touch the ground.

2) remove the washer reservoir from the grooves and stupidly take it to the side so as not to interfere.

3) Open the power steering reservoir and use a syringe to pump out 20 cubic meters to the maximum from the reservoir.

4) You remove the power steering reservoir from the grooves where it is held.

5) Put rags under the tank in advance, you can use more so that the liquid does not spill on the body

6) With ordinary pliers, spread the clamps to the sides and remove both hoses from the tank. ATAS! slurry may leak out of the lower pipe if you lower the hose lower. At this point, it is better to try to drain from the hose into some small jar. There gram 50 will flow out.

7) In a good way, you wash the power steering tank well FAIRY, do not forget that there is a MESH in the tank 3 centimeters from the bottom! for filtering dirt and chips.

8) You dress the washed and DRY tank back to the entrance!!! pipe using the same pliers. There is nothing complicated there. The inlet pipe, which goes directly to the power steering pump, is a little long and quite flexible, so don’t piss, it won’t break.

9) This is an important point: you put the incoming pipe coming from below into some kind of vessel. I adapted a plastic box from 400 grams of oil.:rofl:

10) You pour out a new bottle EXCLUSIVELY ORIGINAL!!! Honda slurry to the very top of the tank!

10) You shout to your partner to start vigorously turning the steering wheel from lock to lock!

11) You watch the level of fluid in the tank and top up, NOT LETTING the tank empty.

12) watch the vessel with the old slurry so that it does not climb over the top.

13) Thus, you need to pour 6! bottles of 0.356mg. original goo.

14) At the end, put the pipe in place and put the tank in place

IMPORTANT: do not pour the whole last bottle and leave the essence in the tank above the maximum by half a centimeter. After starting the car, the level will drop.

That's the whole procedure. By the way, not counting the rise of the front end, the process of replacing the slurry itself takes 10-15 minutes. Everything is pretty easy and fast.

This is simple physics, we are replacing the old slurry with a new one!

And answering your question - ZHIZHA will itself go into the system when the steering wheel is rotated from lock to lock! WITHOUT STARTING THE ENGINE!!

Added after 3 minutes 10 seconds
AND ANOTHER - after such a replacement, my boyanchek stopped jumping around during acceleration and sneaker on the floor! It got better, for sure!

Well, well, well)))...
I don't argue about physics
I am most interested in how the slurry with the pump not working (i.e. the pulley does not spin, therefore there is no pressure) will pass through this very pump ???) It’s purely just a sporting interest) Or can the slurry go through the idle pump ??? But then again ... she needs to pump up somehow, the pump is higher than the tank ... Physics, thrust or mysticism))) ...
By the way, if I understood everything correctly from the replacement algorithm, it will also be necessary to temporarily muffle the flange on the tank (to which, after the replacement, the return pipe will be connected, through which we control the displacement of the old slurry to the new one) so that new slurry does not flow out of it))) ...

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