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The carbureted engine of the car starts and stalls. The car starts and immediately stalls: causes and solutions to the problem Vaz 2107 stalls at idle

Carburetor, contact.

Hello everyone.





  • First you decide what problem with fuel or with ignition. otherwise you change everything in a row. when it stalls and does not start, check if there is a spark on all the candles and if there is benz in the carburetor.
  • Most likely, the matter is in the distributor - a contact group, a bearing, a capacitor ...

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  • I had a wonderful defect - the rubber hose connecting the gas tank and the fuel line cracked. Accordingly, gasoline either went or did not go, unpredictably. A trifling defect, but how he fucked my brains, I can’t express in words !!! How many times have I gone through the ignition and carburetor and where did I just suddenly stop! Oh, how I remember it!
  • Hello everyone.

    The car began to stall on the move (with a gear stuck in, usually 3-4 / while depressing the clutch - during a stop - at idle).
    It started with the fact that it stalled right from the exit from work. Turned key, fired up, drove on. Didn't add any value.
    A day or two stalled "stronger" (in the same place). Didn't start for a minute. Started up - went. After a while, it began to stall on the go. I drive 20-50, in 2-4 gears, it can stall for a second, the car immediately wants to stop, this cannot be overlooked, of course). In a second - two from the pusher it starts up, goes further. The next morning I got up right in the stream. The plant did not want to at all. They dragged me to the house, changed the slider, started up and drove without problems, for 10 days. Then the same thing began. On the first day, it stalled at the exit from work, it started up and drove off, the next it stalled a couple of times on the go - it started from the pusher, the next day it stalled right in front of the house and was able to roll in neutral (50 meters remained). I especially liked it when I tried to die on the turn on the same day. She twitched as if in convulsions, as if she was riding a horse, like a brake-gas in a movie, an indescribable feeling. It looked terrible from the outside.) Changed the slider (again, yes). Wound up with half a turn. A minute later it stalled and that's it. Looked - fuel filter empty, twisted the starter a little - the filter was not filled. Tried to pump fuel manually - no effect. I changed the pump, spark plugs (it was time), BB wires, the car drove like new. A couple of days later it started again. Today it stalled at work and a couple of times in the city. Tomorrow I will stall in the stream ...) Stability is a sign of mastery.
    During all these situevins, the car was not very cold (at least the arrow at the beginning of the white zone).

    Where to dig? I'll never know (not a specialist in repairs).
    Save, otherwise the city will rise because of me)

    On carburetors, there are two main reasons: 1. Jets. 2. Vacuum. There are 3 more reasons, but not the main one, the electromagnetic idle speed controller. mainly manifests itself at speeds up to 60 km / h. Twitching, stalling at idle, dull acceleration with twitches.

    Last edited by Michael just Michael; 01/29/2017 at 17:13 .
  • Hello everyone.

    The car began to stall on the move (with a gear stuck in, usually 3-4 / while depressing the clutch - during a stop - at idle).
    It started with the fact that it stalled right from the exit from work. Turned key, fired up, drove on. Didn't add any value.
    A day or two stalled "stronger" (in the same place). Didn't start for a minute. Started up - went. After a while, it began to stall on the go. I drive 20-50, in 2-4 gears, it can stall for a second, the car immediately wants to stop, this cannot be overlooked, of course). In a second - two from the pusher it starts up, goes further. The next morning I got up right in the stream. The plant did not want to at all. They dragged me to the house, changed the slider, started up and drove without problems, for 10 days. Then the same thing began. On the first day, it stalled at the exit from work, it started up and drove off, the next it stalled a couple of times on the go - it started from the pusher, the next day it stalled right in front of the house and was able to roll in neutral (50 meters remained). I especially liked it when I tried to die on the turn on the same day. She twitched as if in convulsions, as if she was riding a horse, like a brake-gas in a movie, an indescribable feeling. It looked terrible from the outside.) Changed the slider (again, yes). Wound up with half a turn. A minute later it stalled and that's it. I looked - the fuel filter is empty, twisted the starter a little - the filter was not filled. Tried to pump fuel manually - no effect. I changed the pump, spark plugs (it was time), BB wires, the car drove like new. A couple of days later it started again. Today it stalled at work and a couple of times in the city. Tomorrow I will stall in the stream ...) Stability is a sign of mastery.
    During all these situevins, the car was not very cold (at least the arrow at the beginning of the white zone).

    Where to dig? I'll never know (not a specialist in repairs).
    Save, otherwise the city will rise because of me)

    Didn't read up to the end about the filter and fuel pump. Dear, have you changed the mesh in the tank for a long time and checked the fuel pump itself? Membrane for example? Okay, it doesn’t pump manually (the camshaft rested on the rod) But from the starter for 3-5 seconds. the filter must be filled!!!

  • Despite the development of the auto industry, classic VAZ models are still in great demand in the CIS countries. Latest Models"Classics", namely the VAZ-2107, were equipped with injection system inlet. It is more reliable than carburetor. But what to do if the VAZ-2107 starts up and stalls? The injector is a more complex system. But the problem can be solved by hand. Let's see how to do it.

    Does the starter spin?

    First you need to check the voltage in the car's on-board network. For normal start machine, this indicator should not be lower than 12.5 V. To accurately measure the voltage, you must use a voltmeter.

    A starter is a mechanism that requires a large starting current. It is this knot that turns crankshaft for start. Therefore, if the VAZ-2107 (injector) does not start, the reasons may be commonplace - low battery voltage. The solution is to charge the battery. You should adhere to the indicators in 12.5-14 Volts.

    Starter failure

    If there is a short in the housing or armature wiring, replace the damaged part. How to check an element? To do this, you need to use a multimeter. One wire is connected to the place of friction of the brushes, and the second - to the axis of the armature. If the arrow of the device deviates from the values, this may be a malfunction of the armature or winding. Check brushes. They should move easily, and their springs should be elastic and put good pressure on the anchor. After replacing damaged elements, start the engine again.

    Ignition system

    What to do if, with a well-charged battery and a working starter, the VAZ-2107 (injector) does not start? The reasons may be hidden in the ignition system. Here it is non-contact type. The first thing to check is the condition of the spark plugs. They can simply be "filled". Unscrew the elements out and inspect the condition of the electrode. In the presence of plaque, the part should be cleaned in an alkaline solution and screwed back. You should also check the gap between the electrode. To do this, use a special probe. The normal indicator should be in the range from 0.7 to 1 millimeter.

    What if the indicator does not correspond to the norm? The electrode can be bent. But do it carefully. If the indicator is less than normal, use a minus screwdriver. If more, tap the electrode on a metal part (such as an engine valve cover). It would be useful to check the candles for spark generation. For this, a special gun is used. The spark itself should be blue. If the parts have traveled more than 60 thousand kilometers, they should be replaced. Also, when this period is reached, the ones going to them from the ignition distributor change.

    When the candles are lit

    If the VAZ-2107 injector does not start well (grabs but does not start), then the combustion chamber is overflowing with gasoline. The normal ratio of fuel to air should be 1:14. This problem often happens on these vehicles. When starting, the fuel pump pumps a lot of gasoline. By the way, on injection motors it is electric, submersible type. Installed directly into the tank.

    How to dry candles without removing them? To do this, open the throttle when starting. It is mechanical here and is activated by pressing the accelerator trigger through the cable drive. This will allow more air into the combustion chamber and the engine will start immediately.

    distributor

    The VAZ-2107 car uses distributor ignition. If you need to check the condition of the contacts on the high-voltage wires. When the season changes, condensation forms on them. The distributor has five outputs.

    Four of them go to the cylinder plugs, and one (central) goes to the ignition coil. Metal ends often form white coating. Because of it, the slider will not be able to transmit impulses to the coil. By the way, it would be useful to check the ignition distributor itself. The detail looks like this:

    If it is burnt, the part should be replaced. The price of a new element is 150 rubles. If a spark forms on the ignition coil when starting the engine, replace high voltage wire. He also "punches" on candles. You can see it at night time. Small blue sparks are visible near them. In this case, the wires are changed as a set. They are inexpensive. New elements cost about 700 rubles.

    Electric pump problem

    Previously, one of the main problems on the domestic "Classic" concerned the fuel pump, which constantly overheated. But in the injector "seven" it is electric and is cooled by the gasoline itself, which is in the tank. If the element is not supplied with electricity, the car simply will not start. The first thing you should pay attention to is the fuse box.

    On the cover it is written which one is responsible for the fuel pump. If the fuse is blown, replace it. A 15 or 20 amp cell can be used.

    We determine the serviceability visually

    Is it possible to check if voltage is applied to the fuel pump without a multimeter? To do this, when you turn on the ignition, you should carefully listen to its work. When you turn the key to the third position, it should make a characteristic hum. It can be heard in the rear of the cabin. If it is not there and the VAZ-2107 (injector) does not start, the problem is in the voltage supply. It is worth checking the pump relay. It should make characteristic clicks. Experienced motorists carry spare relays and fuses with them in case of sudden breakdowns. This relay is located on a shelf under the glove compartment.

    Low pressure

    Why does the VAZ-2107 (injector) not start? Problems may be hiding in the low pressure of the fuel line. For a normal start of an injection engine, at least 2.8 atmospheres are required. You can check this by disconnecting the supply tube from the ramp. Use a manometer for this. Malfunctions with the pump may occur due to frequent overheating. But how does this happen if it is a submersible type? The fuel pump kills riding on an empty tank. If the light comes on, do not tighten with refueling. The cost of the pump for the injection "seven" is 3 times higher than for the carburetor.

    Filter Status

    The following situation also occurs. You arrived at your destination, turned off the engine for two minutes, got into the car and could not start it again. What to do if the VAZ-2107 (injector) This may be due to a clogged fuel filter. Its replacement period is about 50 thousand kilometers. A dirty air filter is also the cause of a difficult start.

    If it has traveled more than ten thousand kilometers, then it must be replaced. Otherwise, you will run into startup problems.

    VAZ-2107: the injector starts and immediately stalls

    In this case, check the mass air flow sensor. It is located immediately behind the plastic filter housing.

    This element receives information about the air flow and transmits it to the control unit. As a result, electronics decides on the composition combustible mixture. The unit can deliberately adjust the concentration of fuel and air. The resource of the DMRV sensor is 150 thousand kilometers. When contaminated, the element may send false readings. Because of the VAZ-2107, the injector does not start or works and immediately stalls. You should also check the condition of the air pipes for tightness. If necessary, replace.

    DPKV

    If, with a working fuel system, the VAZ-2107 car (injector) does not start, If it is faulty, the control unit will stop supplying fuel due to lack of information about its position. The cost of this element ranges from one to one and a half thousand rubles.

    Conclusion

    So, we found out for what reasons the VAZ-2107 car does not start. As you can see, you can detect and fix a malfunction with your own hands, and for a small price.

    In this article, we will take a closer look at the situation when a carburetor engine passenger car(VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2105, 2107 and their modifications), starts and stalls due to a carburetor malfunction. Malfunctions of carburetors 2105, 2107 Ozone, 2108, 21081, 21083 Soleksi of their modifications will be considered.


    Symptoms

    The engine starts, runs for a few seconds and stalls, repeated starts are ineffective.

    - The engine starts with difficulty, after running for a short time it stalls, after restarting it starts and runs.

    - The engine starts and immediately stalls, restarts and stalls again and so on several times, but then it still starts to work.

    Causes of the malfunction

    No fuel in float chamber

    Pump it up with the manual priming lever on the fuel pump.

    Trigger diaphragm damaged or misadjusted

    Disassemble the body of the trigger, replace the diaphragm with a new one. Adjust starter.


    starting devices carburetors 2108, 21081. 21083 Solex, 2105, 2107 Ozone

    Clogged fuel and air jets, emulsion wells and pipes of the main dosing system

    It is necessary to remove the carburetor cover, unscrew the jets, remove the tubes, rinse and clean them, clean the wells, blow everything with compressed air and put it back. The image shows what should be cleaned on the carburetor 2105, 2107 Ozone.

    On the Solex carburetor, we turn out the air jets, take them out together with the emulsion tubes. At the bottom of the opened wells are fuel jets. We turn them out with a thin long slotted screwdriver. We clean, rinse with acetone and blow with compressed air.


    fuel and air jets, emulsion pipes and emulsion wells GDS carburetors 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex, 2105, 2107 Ozone

    Clogged fuel and air jets and channels of the idle system

    Unscrew the jets, rinse and clean them, blow with compressed air.


    air and fuel jets CXX carburetors 2108 Solex and 2105, 2107 Ozone

    The fuel level in the carburetor float chamber is broken

    The fuel mixture is either very lean or very rich as a result of improper adjustment.


    approximate fuel level in the float chambers of carburetors 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex, 2105, 2107 Ozone

    Articles on the site about adjusting the fuel level:

    Drive out of adjustment air damper carburetor ("suction")

    Situations when the VAZ injector starts up immediately, after which it immediately stalls, occur quite often. And all because of the fuel injection system (forced type). To correct this situation, car owners often use a heating plug, but this is not a solution to the problem, but only a temporary measure. If the VAZ 2107 starts and stalls immediately after turning the key in the ignition, then in most cases this indicates a problem in the delivery of fuel (the fuel pump is clogged or not working properly), or the quality of the fuel used leaves much to be desired, and the nozzles simply clogged. And the car starts exclusively on the remnants of fuel in the cylinders.

    Finding a defective component

    So, what should be done if the engine starts easily, but after that it immediately slows down and stalls? The first step is to check for carbon deposits on the candles. If some of them are covered with a layer of soot, then the engine a priori cannot work normally. It first starts due to the movement of the starter, but immediately after that it slows down, since several cylinders cannot physically withstand the entire load from the crankshaft. The carburetor, by the way, can also fail due to such a problem.


    So what is the cause of engine failure? If the car starts, then at least the spark is fine. That is, the electrical works as expected. It will not be superfluous to unwind the heads and try to find those candles that are covered with a layer of soot. You can clean them by burning them over a gas burner and cleaning with alcohol (this can only be done when the contacts are cold).

    The injector itself can also become clogged. In this case, the fuel supply to the combustion chamber simply does not work. You should take the following actions:

    • remove the blocks and check the dampers;
    • check the operation of the sensors;
    • check if the engine runs normally at temperatures above 80ºС.

    Naturally, the fuel pump itself can fail. At the time of starting the engine, it turns into the injector automatically due to the starter, and then comes the thrust from the generator. If one of these components does not work properly, the machine will simply stall. Here again we are talking about the residual amount of fuel in the cylinders. If the engine immediately stalls, and the starter works unevenly with it, then most likely the problem is either in it or in the ignition switch.



    You should try to replace it with a known good one and retest the engine operation. In extreme cases, the contacts are simply clamped.

    What to do if the problem is in the computer?

    The engine may not work properly if the on-board computer fails. In the VAZ, it is he who is responsible for the timely supply of fuel, the synchronization of the operation of the injector nozzle and spark plugs. When the engine immediately stalls, this indicates a mismatch between the moment of fuel supply and ignition of the fuel mixture.

    As a rule, changing the firmware or restoring it to the factory state helps. Although sometimes it may simply be necessary to adjust the fuel cycle, as well as the saturation of the mixture. In extreme cases, the VAZ 2110 (or later model) will have to replace the entire ECU unit or turn it off, putting the engine into operation mode only from mechanics.

    It should be noted that not only the ECU itself is responsible for the operation of the engine, but also a bunch of sensors that regulate the pressure in the nozzle, mixture saturation, ignition timing.


    That is, you need to check their work. Although, if a malfunction of one of them is detected, a signal should be given check engine on the dashboard. So, for example, it happens when the VAZ 2110 starts. This does not happen only if the computer simply does not receive signals from the sensors. It is worth noting that in model 2107 the computer is not installed by default, but the injector does not work without it.

    Similar problems arise when the carburetor is synthetically converted into an injector, but the old on-board computer is left. They simply change the firmware in it, connect new modules, but you need to understand that initially it was not designed for such work. Thus, if the carburetor is reworked, then the ECU must also be changed to a compatible model along with it. Fortunately, VAZ took care of their release.

    So, if the injector starts up and immediately stalls, then the main causes of such a malfunction are malfunctions in the electronics (including the computer), incorrect operation fuel system or gasoline filtering problems. Finding the root cause is not a problem. In extreme cases, you can always contact the service center. But it is worth remembering that any adjustments to the work on-board computer can only be applied when the engine is in perfect working order.

    Hello everyone, today I want to talk about the reasons why your VAZ 2107 car stalls, and due to this unpleasant annoyance, you can no longer continue driving on your iron horse. Today we will try to consider the main reasons why your engine stalls. Of course, unfortunately there are many such reasons.
    The first reason is problems with the idle speed controller (IAC), usually the car stalls at Idling. Rxx can fail due to contamination, and this leads to the fact that the stem is wedged. To make sure, you need to remove the IAC from the seven and, in case of contamination, rinse thoroughly. It is advisable to use a liquid that washes away the oil well.

    The second reason why the VAZ 2107 stalls is the alarm (unless, of course, it is installed) in most cases, the alarm works with the electric circuit of the fuel pump, but where does this come from, you ask? And besides, an unscrupulous mechanic who connected the alarm to you could do his job poorly from here and problems may follow. Moreover, if they did everything on twists, then over time it weakens, and everyone write letters, as they say. The pump stops receiving power, as a result of which the VAZ 2107 will not start.


    The third reason is too rich combustible mixture. You can check this version by unscrewing the candles, if the contacts of the candles are covered with black soot, this means that the mixture is too rich. For how much gasoline is supplied to the cylinders, the position is responsible throttle valve, as well as the readings of the temperature sensor, on a VAZ 2107 car, this sensor is located on the left in the rear of the block head. If there is a need to replace the temperature sensor, then some part of the antifreeze will have to be drained.
    The failure of the mass air flow sensor (DMRV) on the VAZ 2107 also leads to enrichment of the mixture. You can check the operation of the DMRV using a multimeter. If the voltage is more than 1.002 volts, then it will have to be replaced.


    The fourth reason is a strong depletion of the combustible mixture. As a result, your "Seven" will also stall. This is mainly due to air leakage. The main places of suction are the gaskets of the intake system, or loosening of fastenings in the places where they stand. To look for air leaks, a smoke generator is usually used to see where the smoke is being drawn in.

    And the fifth reason is vacuum booster brakes. Since air leakage can pass through it. This happens due to a leaky diaphragm. You can determine a faulty vacuum cleaner on the VAZ 2107 by pinching the hose that connects the vacuum booster and the intake manifold, if the engine does not stall, then most likely you will have to change the vacuum cleaner.

    Well, that's all we have considered the main reasons why the VAZ-2107 car stalls, if you had other reasons, then write in the comments. All for now.