How to determine if the spark has disappeared from the injector?
You turned on the ignition, you can hear the fuel pump buzzing, turning on, but the car engine, for some reason, does not start. Why? To answer this question, the first thing that would be recommended for you to do in this situation is to check the wires high voltage for the presence of a spark. In order to do this correctly, you will need a spark gap.
At the same time, please note that if you decide to test the presence of a spark without a spark gap, pulling the wire slightly away from the body mass, then if a large spark gap or self-induction current appears, there is a possibility of complete damage to the ignition module and the controller itself. And if at the same time the insulation is also damaged, then you will also get a blow of great force. For the same reason, do not start checking the spark charge after you attach a candle with a high voltage wire attached to it to the motor housing. These are also wrong actions. It must be taken into account that in automotive engines of the injector type, voltage is applied simultaneously to two injectors, which is why it is recommended to use a spark gap.
If you don't have one, it's easy to make your own. There are many circuits that are suitable for making a surge arrester that can test four high voltage wires at once for the presence of a spark, and there are also those that control only two wires. The finished arrester must be connected to the wires and the starter must be started. If voltage was applied to two injectors at once, and a spark did not form on any wire, then either the ignition coil is out of order, or the wire is damaged or breaks through to ground.
In case if no spark immediately on two, out of four pairwise connected, wires, then this indicates damage to either the controller, or the entire module, or the ignition coil, or damage to the wire. To solve this problem, it is first recommended to check the resistance in the wiring, if it is not more than 200 kOhm and there is no big difference between the resistance of other similar wires, then there can be no more talk of violating the integrity of the wires. Then you should test the controller by checking the RAM codes. In the event that the module and coil diagnostic functions are not in the controller, then you just need to replace the ignition module with a new and serviceable one, and check for a spark. Its absence will indicate damage to the wire between the coil and the controller.
Now consider how you can test for a spark when there is an ignition coil on each of the engine cylinders? When no spark on one of the coils, then it must be replaced with a serviceable one, temporarily taken from another cylinder. If the spark does not appear again, then it means that the previous coil was in good order, and the reason for the absence of a spark in this injector is due to controller malfunctions or a broken wiring. For example, if an MP7 brand controller is installed, you first test wire No. 68. To do this, touch it with a free terminal of a control lamp connected to the "minus". Then, monitor wire #66 by connecting with another terminal to detect the presence of "minus".
If the light comes on, then everything is in order in this pair of wires and you should start testing. One way to test is to start the ignition and turn off the fuel pump. If in this state the crankshaft is turned using the starter, the pump will start pumping fuel if the sensor is working. True, there are brands of controllers that start the pump only at the number of crankshaft revolutions specified by the program. Another diagnostic method is that two randomly selected injectors are connected to the connectors control lamp. If the sensor is working, then when the crankshaft rotates, the lamp begins to periodically flash and go out.
Making sure that the sensor is in in perfect order you can conclude that the cause loss of spark at the injector either the controller or the wiring of the electrical circuit suitable for it between the coils or the ignition module serves. Experience shows that controllers fail mainly when the transistor between the primary winding and the "minus" in the ignition coils is knocked out. For the same reason, there may be problems with the ignition module. However, if the manufacturer covered it with a compound, then there can be no talk of any repair, although the controller itself can be fixed. To do this, you will need to have basic soldering skills, and be somewhat of a connoisseur of electronics.
What to do if a malfunction of the crankshaft sensor is detected? It should be noted here that this happens very rarely. The main cause of the malfunction may be weak contact at the junction or the ingress of oil or dirt, as well as as a result of a short circuit of the wires or their rupture. Sometimes, after repair, they are incorrectly laid, thereby disturbing the operation of the sensor.
If, as a result of testing, you find that all the candles spark well, but the engine still does not want to start, then it is recommended that you read the article “Why
Among the common malfunctions or a carburetor engine is one when the spark has disappeared. In this case, the engine may not start or, after starting, may function intermittently (triple), since there is no spark on one of the candles and the cylinder does not actually work.
In such a situation, diagnosis should begin with a check. In parallel with this, it is worth considering certain features and nuances, depending on the type installed engine. Next, we will talk about the available methods for checking the ignition for a spark in relation to engines with a carburetor, and also consider what to do if the spark on the injection engine has disappeared.
Read in this article
Why the spark disappears: the main reasons
On the different types engines, there is a fairly wide list of reasons why there is no spark on the spark plugs. Among the main experts are:
- Problems with spark plugs (destruction of the spark plug body, electrode defects, etc.). It is also worth noting that the candles can be filled with fuel or oil, which indicates a breakdown of the engine itself.
- Faults in high-voltage wires associated with insulation breakdown or lack of contact.
- Failure or errors in operation.
- Problems with the ignition module, ignition coil, switch;
- Malfunctions or malfunctions of the distributor.
- Deterioration or lack of ground contact.
- Work related errors electronic block motor control ();
No spark on an injection engine or a motor with a carburetor: how to check
Checking the spark is possible using several methods: to ground, through the use of a multimeter, with a special tester on a piezoelectric element. The first way is the easiest. The body of the unscrewed candle is brought to the metal (usually this is the engine block), after which the engine is scrolled by the starter and the presence of a spark is analyzed.
Please note that this test method cannot be used during the diagnosis of injection cars. The fact is that on a car with an injector there is an ECU and other electrical equipment, which is quite sensitive and can be disabled.
The second method allows you to better assess the condition of the spark plug, identify a breakdown, etc. The use of a special tester is a method of checking the spark on injection cars, resembling in its principle a test by analyzing the breakdown of the spark to ground (the first method). At the same time, the risk of burning the control unit is minimized. Now let's talk about how to check the spark on an injection engine.
As mentioned above, a special arrester device is used to check the spark on the injector. The presence of this solution during diagnostics allows you to accurately localize the problem area, since there may not be an ignition spark on the candle, on the distributor or on the coil. Also, there may not be sparks in only one, in several, or in all cylinders of the engine at once.
The complete absence of sparking indicates possible problems controller, ignition module, coil or center wire failure. Start the diagnosis by checking the fuses. Then you should evaluate the condition of the "ground" contact, as well as check the high-voltage wires.
If there is no spark on the ignition coil, then the high voltage wire should be diagnosed. The specified wire must be checked for insulation integrity, have no breakdowns, burnt areas, etc. The discovery of any defects is the basis for its replacement.
Also in the process of diagnosing the ignition system, you should inspect the candles. This should be done if the electricity reaches the candles. On carburetor cars, it is enough to remove the spark plug wire, and then bring it closer to a metal surface (for example, a car body) by half a centimeter. Then you need to twist the starter and make sure that there is or is no spark running between the wire and the metal surface. The spark itself should also have a certain intensity, be white with a slight bluish tint. If no deviations are noticed, then the candles are working. The reason that there is no spark on the candle may be the ignition coil.
If problems with candles are noticed, then you need to pay attention to the contacts of the candles. These contacts must be free of contamination. We add that with noticed deviations from the norm, it is optimal to immediately replace the spark plugs. The absence of such an opportunity will indicate the need to clean the contacts.
Checking the ignition coil for spark
To diagnose the health of the coil, remove the wire from the distributor-breaker. Further, the test is carried out similarly to testing high-voltage wires, that is, the wire is brought to a metal surface and twisted with a starter. The presence of a spark in this case will indicate a malfunction of the ignition distributor, if there is no spark, then the problem is in the coil.
First you need to check the contacts of the distributor. These contacts may oxidize, damage to the insulation is also possible, and the rotor itself may be faulty. Finding problems with the rotor allows you to fix the problem by replacing it. When checking the ignition coil, possible defects in the integrity of the winding, burnouts and other signs that a short circuit is occurring inside should be identified. If such signs are found, the coil should be replaced or the ignition coil repaired.
We add that the presence of a spark on the spark plugs does not mean that the car must start. This is especially true for injection engines, on which the failure of certain sensors or an ECU can make it very difficult or completely impossible to start the power unit. In such cases, there is a spark, fuel is supplied, but the engine still does not start. The ignition lock also deserves special attention, since malfunctions can also appear in this place.
Now let's take a closer look at ways to check the main elements of the ignition system. To do this, let's go back to the coil. As already mentioned, the most common cause of a malfunction is a damaged winding. Then there is a breakdown of the insulation and a short circuit occurs. It is also important to understand that the coil can fail due to overloads. Such increased loads result from problematic spark plugs or spark plug wires. For diagnosis, you should:
- put the car in a dry parking, repair or other box. You can also use the garage. The main thing is that the humidity is not too high;
- then you will need to clean the cover of the distributor from contamination, after which the specified cover must be removed;
- then you need to turn the engine crankshaft so that the distributor contacts are closed;
- now you can turn on the ignition and bring high voltage wire distributor to the "mass" by 3-7 mm;
After assessing the spark, a decision can be made on whether the ignition coil needs to be changed. Please note that the repair of this element is often impractical. Also, during the installation of a new spare part, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the required polarity. If this is not done, then new part will quickly become unusable after unskilled installation. Note that in car services a special stand is used to check the coils. Such equipment allows you to check the coil, taking into account various operating modes.
To check the spark on the spark plugs if the distributor is working and there are no problems with the condition of the high-voltage wires, you need to unscrew the spark plugs from the engine. In addition to contacts, one should look at carbon deposits, the degree of oiling of the electrodes, etc. For normal sparking, contamination must be cleaned. You should also check the gap between the electrodes, which is usually normal from 0.7 to 0.9 mm. If the gap is broken, then you can carefully bend the side electrode. This method is a temporary measure, but in some cases it allows you to drive from several tens to hundreds of kilometers without "triple" of the engine in case of problems with the spark plugs.
We also add that there are special pistol devices for checking candles. Usually such solutions are available from sellers of spark plugs in auto shops or at automotive markets. If possible, then the candles can be checked on similar equipment.
If no spark: ignition module
On the possible problems associated with the operation of the ignition module indicate the following symptoms:
- on the idling engine troit;
- power is reduced, the car accelerates poorly;
Engine tripping is most pronounced in two nearby cylinders, and the drop in traction is felt more strongly during attempts to accelerate the vehicle sharply, that is, when the accelerator is pressed hard and sharply. On the dashboard most cars in a similar situation usually lights up "check".
If the check of spark plugs and high-voltage wires did not reveal any problems, then the ignition module should be checked with a tester. The test consists in connecting one output of the tester to the module connector, and powering the other to ground. Then the motor can be started. The tester reading 12 V is an indication that the module is in order. A deviation in the instrument readings from the norm may indicate both the need to replace the module itself and check / replace the corresponding fuses.
Experienced motorists are well aware that spark plugs can fail at the most inopportune moment. For this reason, it is recommended to carry a spare set with you. The same can be said about spark plug wires.
Great care must be taken when working on the ignition system, as it is possible to receive a strong electric shock. Isolated tools must be used.
If there is a suspicion that the ignition module is the cause of the problem, the device can be temporarily replaced with a known working one if possible. This approach can significantly reduce diagnostic time and quickly identify the source of the problem.
Since candles fail more often than other elements of the ignition system, the spark test always begins with them. Diagnostics can be performed sequentially. The procedure is carried out by unscrewing the candle from, then a cap and a wire from the coil are put on the candle, after which it is grounded to ground. The main indicator when checking during the rotation of the starter is the spark itself and its quality.
When removing the spark plug wires from the ignition module, it is advisable to mark each wire. This will allow checking and subsequent connection in a strictly defined order without the risk of confusing the wires.
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Therefore, every owner of the VAZ 2109 should know the solution to this issue.
So, the main reasons that there is no spark of the VAZ 2109 are as follows:
1) The VAZ 2109 switch failed
2) The Hall sensor VAZ 2109 failed
3) Torn timing belt VAZ 2109
4) The ignition coil VAZ 2109 failed
5) The contact group of the ignition lock VAZ 2109
6) Contacts of the cover of the ignition distributor VAZ 2109
7) Malfunction in the wiring (torn off or rotten any of the wires of the electrical circuit ignition switch-switch-ignition coil-Hall sensor).
Above are the most basic malfunctions, due to which there is no spark on the VAZ 2109. Let's look at each of them in order. We will immediately make a reservation that the VAZ 2109 must have a charged battery that rotates the engine crankshaft. If your starter is not turning crankshaft engine VAZ 2109, then first get it to turn it, and then look for a spark.
1) To check that the switch on the VAZ 2109 is working, it must be replaced with a known good one.
Experienced owners of the VAZ 2109 know that the VAZ 2109 switch is not the most reliable part, so you should always have a spare switch in the glove compartment. We remove the switch under suspicion, we put in a known good one.
We try to start it - if it starts up, then it's the switch. It didn’t start - we put the old switch back and look further.
2) To check the Hall sensor, it is also better to replace it with a known-good one, although there is a test method directly on the VAZ 2109.
We replaced the Hall sensor and try to start it again. If a spark appears, then the problem was in the Hall sensor. If the spark on the VAZ 2109 did not appear, move on.
3) To make sure that your timing belt is not broken, remove the cover from the ignition distributor and turn the crankshaft with a starter.
The ignition distributor slider should turn. If it doesn't spin, change the timing belt.
4) The ignition coil fails quite rarely, so it is better to check it as indicated. If the check indicates a malfunction of the ignition coil, we change it and look: a spark has appeared - it means that the matter is in the coil, it did not appear, let's move on.
5) The contact group of the ignition switch can also be the reason that there is no spark on the VAZ 2109. I had such a thing: after two days in the cold, for some reason, the spark on the VAZ 2109 disappeared. The starter turns briskly, but there is no spark. I noticed that when you turn on the ignition, the power to the ignition system is on pin B of the ignition coil. When turning the starter, the power from terminal B of the ignition coil is lost.
The thing is incomprehensible and difficult to diagnose, it is necessary to measure the voltage between ground and contact B of the ignition coil with a multimeter or a light bulb. To rotate the starter, it is necessary to turn the ignition key and somewhere in the contact group of the ignition switch there is no contact, therefore, when the starter is rotated, power is removed from the ignition system. It is treated by replacing the contact group of the ignition switch, or as follows:
Through a button with a fixation, we hang + 12V from the battery to contact B of the ignition coil.
We pressed the button, +12V went to the coil and the ignition system will be powered even when the starter is rotating.
A spark will appear, fired up, the button is pressed again to break the direct circuit from the battery to the coil. If the button is left pressed, then the VAZ 2109 will not stall when the ignition is turned off. This method is quite acceptable, as, for example, in my case: the VAZ 2109 car is in the cold -20 degrees, and it needs to be started. Changing the ignition contact group in this case is not the fastest and most convenient solution. You will not do anything bad with the button from the battery to the coil. When there is time, you can safely make repairs somewhere in the garage, and put the jumper with the button in the trunk and save it just in case.
6) In general, when there are no sparks on the VAZ 2109, this must be checked first. First of all, if there is no spark on the VAZ 2109 spark plug, then you need to check if there is a spark from the ignition coil.
We remove the central wire from the ignition coil, bring it a centimeter to the ground and turn the starter. If there is a spark, then remove the cover from the ignition distributor. We check the integrity of the runner resistor, clean the contact of the ignition distributor cover.
7) The last problem due to which there is no spark on the VAZ 2109 is a malfunction in the wiring of the ignition system. As a rule, very often they are visible to the naked eye: wires are torn off or melted, the connectors of the switch and the Hall sensor are poorly dressed.
But if visually everything is in order, then you can determine the malfunction only after ringing all the wires of the ignition system with a multimeter. Naturally, not everyone knows how to use a multimeter, so if the reasons described above did not help you find a spark on the VAZ 2109, then we ask an auto electrician for help.
All possible breakdowns of VAZ-2110 cars are conditionally divided into three types. These are problems in various failures in electronics and electrics, as well as more global troubles (ICE, gearbox). If the car has problems in the ignition system, then they immediately make a diagnosis - the spark has disappeared. Let's look at why there is no spark on the VAZ-2110 (injector, 8 valves). So, what are the causes of such a malfunction?
Possible reasons for absence
Majority modern cars equipped with many sensors. They make life easier for the car owner and complicate repairs. In the electronics responsible for the work injection engine, there are several sensors responsible for the sparking process. But the reasons that there is no spark (VAZ-2110, injector, 8 valves) may be in other nodes. There are several types possible breakdowns. The first can be attributed to various problems in the fuel system of the car. This includes malfunctions in which fuel cannot enter the cylinders or the supply is malfunctioning.
If there is no spark (VAZ-2110, injector, 8 valves), then this may be due to fuel system. The pump relay or the submersible element itself often fails. The test is performed by ear.
Next come the problems associated with the electrical part. These are one of the most common faults. With such breakdowns, an electric discharge does not come to the candle. Naturally, the mixture will not be ignited. Among the global problems are the complete failure of the engine, a broken timing belt. It is not worth dwelling on these faults in detail.
Diagnostic methods
Why did the spark disappear (VAZ-2110, injector, 8 valves)? The problem should be clarified as thoughtfully as possible and in several stages. And in order for the search for the cause to be successful, you will need a multimeter, as well as a spark gap.
Stage one
Usually the symptoms of the problem are as follows: the starter turns properly in its standard mode, but the engine does not want to start. One of the most likely causes is the fuel pump not starting. By the way, on injector "tens" it is submersible and is placed directly in the tank.
You can check the element by the presence of the sound of work. Turn on the ignition - there should be a rumble in the area rear seats. Sometimes it is missing. In this case, check the fuses. The VAZ-2110 is an injection car, and the fuse box here is located on the side of the center console on the front passenger side. It is necessary to unscrew the fasteners, then remove the cover, check the fuses for operability and, if necessary, replace them. If the elements are fully functional, then you need to check whether the relay will turn on, both the main one and the fuel pump. The moment of inclusion can be felt with a finger. A characteristic click will also be heard.
If the fuel pump is working, use a pressure gauge to check the presence of fuel in it. If there is no pressure gauge, then press the spool at the end of the fuel rail. This element may be in a protective cap. The pressure will be quite noticeable, although its power cannot be determined. A running pump and no pressure may indicate an obstruction in the fuel line. This can be caused by a clogged fuel filter.
Stage two
If there is no spark on the VAZ-2110 (injector, 8 valves), then spark plugs are often the cause. Naturally, they are checked if the fuel pump is working. It is best to use a spark gap for testing. If the current is distributed to two candles, then there is always a “ground” breakdown.
A variant is possible when there was a wire break on the ignition coil, or breaks appeared on its winding. If the VAZ-2110 car does not have a spark (injector, 8 valves) on two wires, then the reasons may be in a non-working ignition coil or controller. In two cases, there is a possibility of a rupture. This option is worth checking first. Look at the level of resistance. Normal indicators are up to 200 kOhm.
Ignition module and coil
Here you can check the error codes that are in the car's memory. If the ECU does not have a diagnostic function, you should install a known-good module.
You can find out why there is no spark on the VAZ-2110 (injector, 8 valves) using a faulty controller. It is also possible to break the wires from the controller to the ignition coil. If there is no spark on each of the coils, it is worth making sure that there is power. If there is no electrical discharge for some reason, then the element must be replaced. It works in the system. Therefore, checking the “minus” will be a useful operation.
Possible errors of VAZ injectors
Codes can signal malfunctions of any parts and components in the car. Most often this is due to sensors. Temperature sensors are especially affected - they overheat. Also, motorists complain about the injectors. Problems appear due to breaks in the circuit. As a result, they cannot work on time. This also includes a popular breakdown on the VAZ-2110 - there is no spark. The 8 valve injector cannot start normally because of this.
Now about the errors associated with the engine. The most common of these is overheating. Candles also overheat, so the spark disappears. As a result, the motor does not show any signs of life. The next thing to consider is the valves. These parts may be too dirty, resulting in their complete closure. They do not pass the necessary mixture of air and fuel. And finally, fans - if they don't work, then power unit will constantly overheat.
Other malfunctions
If the starter does not rotate, then the spark disappears between and this element. Often this happens with a discharged or faulty battery. A normal battery, when tested, shows at least 11.8 V. A faulty ignition cylinder will appear immediately when the driver inserts and turns the key. If the key is too easy or too hard to turn, the lock must be replaced. or the ignition system is also one of the possible causes lack of spark. But you can't check these nodes yourself. The "retractor" device may jam in the starter. In this case, the spark disappears along the way. Experienced car enthusiasts hit the starter with a wrench or hammer to return the spark. But this is true only in the field.
What to do if the spark disappeared in the VAZ-2110 car? Check the starter in the garage with a battery. If you press the body of the device to the “minus” of the battery, and stretch the “plus” wire to the “retractor”, then the device comes to life. Often the spark can disappear where power is supplied to the starter. This circuit is best checked with a multimeter. One cannot cope here - the assistant will work as a key at the time of measurements.
Conclusion
When the spark disappeared on the VAZ-2110 (injector), what is the reason is difficult to immediately determine. Perhaps the problem lies in the corny oxidized contacts. In some cases, the situation can be corrected by cleaning the terminals from oxides. Especially worth paying attention to the wire from the ground that goes to the battery. In 80 percent of cases, the problem with difficult starting is solved in this way.