The fuel injection system is a rather important part of modern Vehicle. Of course, that she, like the whole car, needs maintenance.
The essence of this article lies in self service nozzles, namely the flushing process without removing them from the engine. You can carry out this procedure with your own hands, without resorting to expensive services at local service stations.
Device
Many are faced with the problem of cleaning nozzles, but they still do not know exactly how these same nozzles work. The injector itself is an electrical valve that supplies fuel to the manifold.
This procedure takes place with the help of special electronics of the car, the so-called "brains". All injectors are combined into one system using a fuel rail that distributes fuel to each injector.
Signs of pollution
One of the most common causes of injector contamination is a decrease in engine power. Along with this, there is a problematic engine start, excessive fuel consumption, fuel detonation, as well as a “floating” idling of the car.
Cleaning options
You can wash the nozzles in several ways, the first and most primitive is to assemble a small stand for washing the nozzles.
To do this, you need a 2 liter plastic bottle, clean fuel filter, a compressor for pumping air, a pair of nipples, a meter hose and, finally, clamps.
Now you can start assembling. Take a bottle and make two holes in it, in the lid and in the bottom. It is advisable to use a 13 mm drill bit. We insert the nipples into the holes, and install the nipple with the valve unscrewed into the cover.
We take a hose and put it on a nipple without a valve, and fix it with a tie. On the other side of the hose, install the fuel filter and secure with a tie.
Here you need to fill the bottle with a special cleaner. On average, 1 liter of fluid is enough for a two-liter engine. Now you need to warm up the car and turn it off, after that you need to relieve the pressure in the fuel line and disconnect it from the injectors.
We disconnect the fuel pump from the power supply, and the return line to the tank must also be turned off. We take the assembled device and connect it to the nozzles. It is necessary to connect a compressor to the second nipple in order to create pressure in the bottle, about 3 atmospheres.
We leave the bottle in limbo and go start the car. Now the engine is running on the cleaner, and after 15 minutes you need to turn off the engine, wait a bit for the liquid to start to eat into the nozzles, peeling off all the dirt, and finally start the car again and wait until the bottle is completely empty.
Finally turn off the device and assemble the fuel supply system back to its original state. In general, such a scheme for flushing nozzles is very easy to assemble and execute, and you will definitely be satisfied with the result.
Removal flush option
Other ways to clean injectors require removing them from the engine. It is more complex, but at the same time it is possible to assess the degree of purity of the nozzles themselves. This is the method used by many motorists. To flush gasoline injectors, you need couplers, a meter piece of wire, a small hose suitable for a cleaning agent sprayer and a battery.
The cleaning principle is as follows. It is necessary to put the hose on the sprayer and insert the other end into the nozzle. Now you need to apply current to the nozzle using a wire.
However, it is better to use a 9V crown, since the voltage to the injectors is supplied with just such a power. When the nozzle has opened, the cleaning liquid can be dispensed.
Such a device for flushing nozzles is characterized by more reliable cleaning, since the entire process of the passage of liquid through the nozzles shows the degree of contamination.
Therefore, you can understand how well the nozzle is cleaned. A completely clean nozzle will spray the cleaning fluid instead of squirting it.
It is important to know that nozzle flushing liquids can easily corrode fabric and skin, which means that safety precautions must be observed when working with this liquid. It is necessary to use rubber gloves, as well as special clothing, so that the liquid does not get on the skin.
Also, do not stand in the line of liquid spraying and do not direct it at others, because such a tool can cause irreparable harm to yourself and others.
Photo of flushing nozzles with your own hands
Greetings Friends! In fact, do-it-yourself injector flushing is not exactly what most motorists think about. In this article, we will understand all the nuances.
And our nuances will consist of the following points:
- Do I need to flush the injector
- How to flush the injector
Well, now we will understand in order.
Do I need to flush the injector
Here I will be brief and answer simply - the injector must be flushed. And this must be done regularly every 30,000 km. I tie this procedure to every third engine oil change. Why am I so sure about the need to flush the injector? Because we are not flushing the injector More on that later.
And now I will express my opinion on this matter in more detail.
Let's start with the fact that I do not quite understand the expression "flush the injector", flush the nozzles on the injector", "injector car" and the like. What is an injector? Injector in translation ( injector) is the injector. All in all, a nozzle.
And now let's write these expressions in translation - "flush the nozzle" (one ??? Maybe it's more correct - flush the injectors?), "flush the nozzles on the nozzle", "injector car". Sounds like complete bullshit to me. And the meaning is even more delusional
It’s more correct, as for me, to be expressed like this - “flush the nozzles on a car with an engine management system”
But flushing the nozzles without removing them from the car is an ineffective measure. Therefore, it is the washing of the injectors that I carry out only with the removal from the engine. In this way, you can visually evaluate the atomization of the nozzles and check their shut-off properties. Look them in the eye so to speak
So why "flush the injector without removing the nozzles"?
The fact is that this procedure is necessary not only for injection engines(engine with control system), but also on carburetor (without engine control system)
Do you get the gist? This flush is intended for carburetor engines, although there are no injectors. So what is there to wash? And the valves and the combustion chamber are washed during this procedure.
Okay, it is clear that we will flush the valves and combustion chambers. But why? What's so terrible about it?
It's all about the design and principle of operation of most injector engines.
Injectors have replaced carburetors primarily because of the environment. With the help of the engine management system, you can achieve a reduction in emissions of harmful substances. The injectors also made it possible to dry the intake manifold and provide a more uniform fuel supply to each combustion chamber, which was not possible with a carburetor.
So. The injector on our engines does not deliver fuel directly to the combustion chamber, but to the intake manifold near the intake valve. This is a very smart decision, since it is not gasoline that burns in the combustion chamber, but gasoline vapors with air. Here "injection on the valve" plays very important role, since the valve is hot, the fuel, falling on it, evaporates very quickly and mixes with air. This is very good.
But there is also back side medals. There is always something to win and something to lose. So it is in this case.
Getting on the hot valve, the fuel inevitably leaves traces of scale, all kinds of precipitation, raids, etc. on it.
Over time, the valve becomes more and more overgrown with this muck. And this muck, in turn, interferes with the evaporation of fuel. As a result, difficult mixture formation, a longer engine start, the nozzle opening time increases by Idling from 2.5 ms to 3, or even up to 4 ms. From here increased consumption, loss of injectivity on low revs and other delights.
Soot in the combustion chamber also does not bring anything good. In especially advanced cases, it can even lead to detonation, which is a direct threat to the engine.
So think - make the engine feel good now or continue to doubt the usefulness of this procedure
In order to more realistically demonstrate to you the result of flushing the valves, I pre-washed the injectors with their removal from the engine, and also made engine diagnostics before flushing, during flushing and after flushing. I also twisted one candle for a visual picture of what is happening. You don't have to.
So let's go.
How to flush the injector
I always do this with Wynn's. Keep in mind that it is available for both gasoline and diesel systems. Do not confuse when buying
One jar is enough for you. The price tag for it is 200 UAH (7-8 c.u.)
Flushing the injector, valves and combustion chamber
First, I’ll talk about the preparatory nuances and safety. In this article, washing will take place using a plastic bottle. Be aware that this is very dangerous. Plastics and combustible materials sometimes self-ignite even from static electricity. Before my eyes, a fuel and lubricants warehouse once burned down simply from the fact that a person poured gasoline into plastic canister! Therefore, it is better to use a metal container for these purposes.
I used to have a homemade metal structure. Just a piece of pipe, and plugs with fittings are welded along the edges. But the marauders did not disdain her either. It is not yet possible to weld another one, since the welding machine also left in an unknown direction. Yes, and we have no more electricity than we have because of the shelling.
So keep that in mind and keep a fire extinguisher handy.
Do not hang the flush container from the hood above the engine compartment. Place the container outside the engine compartment. If, God forbid, the container bursts, then the flush will not spill onto the hot engine.
I will also focus on the filter. I don't use it when washing. I don't see any reason for the extra cost. But if you still use the filter, then do it wisely, and not according to the advice from YouTube, where one is advised not to spend money and take a regular plastic carburetor filter. Such advice will sooner or later lead to trouble. These filters are not designed for such pressure as in engines with a control system, which reaches values above 4 atm. Therefore, our filters are made of metal, not plastic.
Remember - safety is paramount!
Now about some nuances. It is advisable to have a set of old working candles and install them at the time of flushing. I do so. Although on new cans with Vince they already write that it is safe for spark plugs. Therefore, decide for yourself, but then I will show what a candle can turn into during flushing.
It is advised to start flushing on a warm engine so that flushing seeps into the crankcase less. So, it seems, you can not change the oil after the flushing procedure. But I start doing it on a cold engine. Why?
First, I always do an injector flush before a scheduled oil change. Secondly, in my personal opinion, when starting a cold engine, part of the flush will also get on the rings, which will increase the chance of their decoking or prevent the rings from sticking.
What you need to flush the injector:
- Vince 1 bank
- rag
- two valves for tubeless tires
- 1 meter fuel hose with an inner diameter of 10mm
- plastic bottle 2l
- compressor or pump
- drill 10mm
- two clamps 12-20
I will not show in detail how to make a washing container from a bottle. If you have any questions, ask in the comments.
We just drill holes with a 10mm drill in the bottom of the bottle and in the cap. It is important that the holes are even, not oval. Then we insert valves for tubeless tires into them.
To insert into the bottom of the bottle, I put the valve on the welding electrode and with it inserted the valve into the bottom of the bottle.
There is no need to put on the valve to the end. His pressure then presses so tightly.
Attention! If you don’t want to bother with hoses and a bottle, then you can buy a ready-made flush kit. It has many adapters and accessories. Everything is in a handy case.
First of all, remove the cover from the fuse box in engine compartment and remove the fuel pump power circuit fuse
Opening the fuel tank cap
We start the engine and let it run until it stops on its own. After that, we twist the starter a couple more times. All of the above procedures are needed to relieve pressure in the fuel line.
Now, by pressing on the plastic retainer, remove the tube from the fuel rail. If you do this on a hot engine, then it makes sense to put a wet rag on the bottom so that the gasoline remaining in the ramp does not get on the hot engine
The hose itself can be covered, for example, with a bag and tied up
We connect our prepared fuel hose to the ramp. Do not use the first available tubes or transparent hoses without reinforcement - they may not withstand the pressure!
We fix the second end of the hose with a clamp to the valve installed in the bottle.
Important!!! From this valve, you must first unscrew the spool itself. He is not needed there!
We connect the compressor to the valve in the cap and fix the bottle
This is what it looks like assembled
We screw in another set of candles
Now we fill Vince into the bottle and pump up a pressure of 4 atm with a compressor or pump, simultaneously looking at the joints so that there are no leaks anywhere.
We start the engine and let it idle for 20 minutes. At first, he can tune and even try to stall. At this point, you can help him with the accelerator pedal. After a while, the rpms usually become stable and the engine runs confidently.
We look at the pressure and, if necessary, pump up to 4 atm. By the way, you have to pump up very rarely.
For those who are especially curious, I note that after the 95th gasoline, on Vince, the corrections went up sharply
After the engine has been idling for 20 minutes, it must be stopped and allowed to stand still for another 20 minutes.
Then we start the engine again and periodically raise the speed to 3 thousand. Hold it for a minute and slow down. We repeat this sequence until all the flushing liquid is finished.
Important!!! Raising the revs does not mean “going off the gas”! Turnovers must be increased gradually. By sharp gasping you will do more harm than good, as in this case a strong detonation will appear! Keep this in mind.
After Vince is over, we depressurize the bottle, connect the fuel line back to the rail, tighten the gas tank cap, insert the fuel pump fuse and start the engine on gasoline. Let him work in different modes for 20 minutes.
After that we change motor oil And oil filter. How to do this is on the page.
After changing the oil, we change the candles and go for a ride in active mode for 20 minutes.
For those who are thinking about whether to change candles or not, then I will just show a photo for general development.
On the right is the candle before flushing, and on the left is what it turns into during flushing
And now the most important thing - what have we achieved after all?
Well, the first is a clear increase in engine output. Especially at low revs. Starting off is clearly better and more confident. Idling work is equalized.
Feelings are feelings, but let's look at the numbers. They will surely tell us the truth.
Here is the schedule before flushing the injector and valves
And here are the same parameters after flushing the injector and valves
We have amazing results throttle valve covered more than one and a half times, and the pressure in the collector decreased from 35 kPa to 31 kPa.
Here are some more impressive results. Engine operation before valve flushing
And here is the operation of the engine after flushing the valves
Is it noticeable how the IAC steps fell by half? What about airflow?
And finally, the most informative indicator for many. Here is the duration of the injection pulse before flushing the injector
But the duration of the injection pulse after flushing the injector
Not only did the duration of the injection pulse decrease after flushing the injector, it also became more stable (the line on the graph became more even).
So not only the engine will thank you, but also the wallet. The difference at first glance is not great, but in a year you can save a lot of expensive gasoline.
In general, let's summarize.
Everyone decides for himself what to do with his car, but I believed, I believe and will continue to believe that flushing the injector is a necessary preventive procedure. Even if nothing changed on the graphs, you still need to flush. After all, you change the oil for some reason, but this does not affect the behavior of the car. Right?
You just need to understand that we are washing not so much nozzles as valves and a combustion chamber. And we do it for preventive purposes, and do not try to restore a burned-out valve or resurrect a dead nozzle.
There will be questions, additions or advice - welcome to the comments below.
All of the above can be seen in the video
Lastly, I would like to give you one piece of advice. Since tire valves are not oil resistant, Vince gradually destroys them and after a while the valve literally crumbles. Here is a good example
Two conclusions can be drawn from this:
- Do not be lazy and put a new bottom valve on the next flush. Even if it looks great, it does not guarantee that it will withstand pressure.
- Do not use hoses not designed for such procedures.
Peace and smooth roads to all!
The injection system for powering engines is more economical than the carburetor system. It has a number of undeniable advantages in terms of fuel consumption, power and engine dynamics. But it is much more difficult to maintain, is very critical to the quality of the fuel used and requires highly qualified maintenance mechanics, which in turn increases the cost of maintenance and repair. The high price of all components and their poor maintainability, further raises the bar for car maintenance costs.
The fuel injection system and the vehicle ignition system are controlled by an electronic control unit (ECU) engine, which, with the help of appropriate sensors, continuously monitors the engine load, the vehicle speed, the thermal state of the engine, and the optimal combustion process in the cylinders. Fuel is supplied to the intake manifold of the engine using injectors.
The nozzle is a high-precision electromechanical valve in which the check valve needle is pressed against the seat by a spring. When an electrical impulse is applied from the control unit to the injector solenoid coil, the needle rises and opens the sprayer opening.
On the fuel supply side, the injectors are inserted and fixed with spring clips in the fuel rail - a hollow tubular part with holes for installing injectors and a fuel pressure pulsation compensator, which serves to supply fuel to the injectors and is fixed on the intake manifold. The fuel pressure in the rail is created by a rotary-type submersible electric fuel pump.
The nozzle side of the sprayer is inserted into the intake manifold sockets.
The nozzle is designed for metered fuel injection into the engine cylinder. When an electrical impulse arrives, the needle opens the atomizer hole - fuel is supplied in the form of a sprayed cone-cloud into the intake manifold of the car. The amount of fuel injected by the injector depends on the duration and frequency of the electrical impulses.
Nozzles work in difficult conditions:
high temperatures - up to 120 0 С;
high injection pressure of 1.0-6.0 kg / cm 2 (the fuel pump supplies fuel from the fuel tank through the fuel line to the fuel rail at a pressure of about 380 kPa (about 360 kPa at idle);
resinous and varnish deposits on the working surfaces of the valve as a result of the use of poor quality fuel;
soot formation - an ultra-thin slag layer of 5 microns can change the throughput by up to 25%.
If the nozzles are dirty:
fuel is supplied unevenly through the cylinders;
insufficient fuel in transient and power modes of engine operation;
reduced engine power and throttle response;
detonation pops occur during acceleration of the car;
at idle, the engine becomes more unstable, engine start worsens over time;
increased fuel consumption;
emissions increase.
Car manufacturers recommend cleaning the injector nozzles at least 20,000 - 40,000 km, depending on the quality of the gasoline used.
This operation at the service station costs $ 30-50, depending on the design features of the car and the cleaning method.
There are several cleaning methods:
chemical method - the simplest, but less effective - pouring liquid for washing nozzles into fuel tank. The tank and fuel line must be clean, otherwise the liquid dissolves solid deposits to a suspended state and the pump will drive all the dirt into the fuel rail and injectors. At the service station, a low-octane cleaner is fed directly into the fuel rail under pressure and the engine is started. But after such cleaning, the exhaust gas catalyst gets into a difficult state. In addition, after cleaning, you will have to change the oil, as well as the oil filter, since the low-octane cleaning agent gets there;
ultrasonic method - carried out only at the service station, as special equipment is needed. This method cannot be used to clean nozzles with a ceramic atomizer, due to the fact that in an ultrasonic bath there is a risk of ceramic cracking in places of microcracks, which, with significant runs, are present on this part. In conventional injectors, with a significant run from ultrasound, the dry insulation of the wire of the solenoid coil can be destroyed, which leads to an interturn circuit and injector failure;
nozzle cleaning with solvents is carried out on special stands, the principle of operation of which is based on the fact that pure solvent is fed directly through the fuel rail to the nozzle, and the spent solvent is passed through special filters that clean it. The device is a looped system that has several modes of operation of the injectors and the ability to measure and compare the performance of the injectors.
The average operation time for cleaning the injector is 60-90 minutes and depends on the design features of the car.
But you can quite successfully clean the nozzles yourself with the help of a simple device, for the manufacture of which you will need the following components:
rechargeable battery or charger 7 - 12V;
Injector connector (from VAZ 2110) or narrow connectors from car speakers;
a piece of petrol-resistant hose 10cm and an internal D 6-7mm, you can use a piece of a failed brake hose;
two clamps with screw clamp D 12 - 15mm;
two wires (of any length) with a cross section of 1.0-1.5 mm 2;
bulb 12V 21W;
any button for closing, it is possible from a house call;
spray Hi-Gear carburetor cleaner or similar.
measuring cup;
stopwatch.
Connectors from car speakers or an injector connector from a VAZ 2110 are soldered to segments of flexible wires.
The ends of the petrol-resistant hose are evenly cut with a sharp knife. Clamps are placed on the hose. A nylon washer of a suitable diameter is inserted inside the hose. According to the inner diameter of the hose, a rubber plug 25 mm long is selected or manufactured. A hole with a diameter of 2 mm is drilled inside the cork, where the tube from the cleaner can is inserted.
All parts are smeared with Moment glue and dried until the glue is completely dry. After the glue dries, the parts are smeared again and immediately assembled. The spray tube is inserted into the rubber stopper, and the stopper is inserted into the hose.
One clamp is shifted to the end of the hose with a glued plug, we crimp it and leave it to dry for 12 hours.
The fuel rail with injectors is removed from the car.
We release the spring clips, remove the nozzles and carefully clean everything from dirt and oil. We place the lower part of the nozzles (sprayers) in a narrow container, standing.
External cleaning of nozzles - cleaning of the nozzle and the funnel-shaped surface around the nozzle.
Pour the WYNN*S gasoline injection system cleaning fluid into the container or a mixture of solvent and solvent 647 to a level so that the nozzles of the sprayers are completely immersed.
Just throw nozzles solvent is not allowed. Do not allow cleaner or solvent to enter the electrical part nozzles.
We leave the nozzles in the container for a while, depending on the degree of contamination. All soot should dissolve or soften. After that, we rivet a piece of aluminum wire with a diameter of 2.5-4 mm and with this scraper we clean off the remnants of soot in the nozzles and on the outer surface of the sprayers.
The nozzles are ready for internal cleaning.
On the street or in a well-ventilated area, we assemble the device for nozzle cleaning. It is advisable to fix the hose with the spray tube in a vise or clamp at the height of the valve of the cleaner can.
The nozzle is inserted into the free end of the hose and crimped with a second clamp.
Wires with terminals are connected to the nozzle connector. One wire from the nozzle is connected in series through a light bulb to the plus of the battery or power supply, and the second in series with the button to the minus.
Press the valve of the cleaner bottle. The nozzle in this position should not miss a drop. We press the button, the nozzle turns on and by the spray jet of the cleaner you can judge the degree of contamination of the nozzle.
We clean the nozzles (injector) ourselves
Advantages of the device (circuit):
1. Easy to assemble
2. Does not need to be configured
3. No scarce elements
4. Can be assembled on breadboard
Working at a service station as an injector, we often met with the problem that the car was eating fuel, twitching, pulling badly! Basically, the whole problem was the low-quality fuel that they slipped to us. Of course, not always, there were simple and banal cases when a plug fell off or a candle failed. But it's not about that now.
The quality of gasoline in our country leaves much to be desired, due to temperature and time, plaque and pollution form on the nozzles of the nozzles and on their needles. They turn to specialists.
I will now provide a circuit board that replaces the standard program for cleaning the injector (nozzles). Why did I make it, you ask? Due to the fact that our lights were often turned off in winter, and our boss was a little greedy for money in order to buy a normal generator to power the entire station.
The circuit is powered by 12 volts, any battery. Doesn't need a computer. I did not reinvent the wheel, at first I climbed the sites and forums, but something was too complicated or on ancient antediluvian elements. I decided to tighten my brains a bit and do something simpler. No sooner said than done. A day later I drew a diagram and checked it!
I didn’t invent the wheel, I took the well-known oscillator on the NE555 chip, picked up the ratings to get the signal that should go, took the final stages from the same program that kindly provided me and got a circuit that draws on the title of "cheap, but cheerful "!!! Well, let's not pull the cat for ahem ... ahem, I provide a diagram:
Scheme for cleaning the injector
I must say right away that R1 and R2 are composite, or you can use variables that we select values with a multimeter. Ideally R1 (30.7 kom), R2 (23.02 kom). These values are not from the ceiling, I took the data from the program, adjusted everything through the program for the NE555. If anyone is interested, I can post a link later. It is advisable to take accurate resistors, since the generator signal directly depends on the deviation in these resistors. I can say the same about capacitors C1 and C2. I soldered them out of the audio recorder. R3 and R4 are not critical in this regard. VR1 in the diagram is a roll or voltage regulator of 5 volts, T1 is an amplifying transistor, T2 is the terminal (composite). The diode can be torn out of Chinese power supplies or it costs a penny to buy.
Be sure to install the KRENKA and Transistor T2 on radiators, a small roll is enough, but KT898 needs a radiator somewhere 8 by 8 cm, it heats up well !!!
Unfortunately, I can’t provide a photo of the assembled device, but it worked for 3 years while I was at the service station, then I left it there, I hope it still works to this day. It was assembled on a breadboard, so there is room for imagination for everyone, and there are not many details.
There is one more note, before connecting the injector, measure its resistance, if the resistance is less than 8 ohms, then you should not drive them for a long time for a maximum of 30-60 seconds. The rest can even drive until you turn blue (just kidding) 5-8 minutes is enough.
How to use this gadget: half the nozzle is immersed in a solution of acetone, solvent, or the same liquid for cleaning carburetors (I recommend it by the way). We connect the nozzle, and then we supply power to the board (you can put a toggle switch =)). The nozzle starts buzzing, bubbles form at the base of its nozzle, this is approximately the effect of cavitation, after a while it starts to drink, so to speak, to pump the solution from the bottom up. If this happens then everything is fine.
ATTENTION: Do not use this option on cars older than 2005, some injectors that have already undergone corrosion can simply fail. This is mostly found on Korean cars. It is also not advisable to use this method where ceramics are present in the nozzles.
There will be questions write. Approximately as it is necessary to do from below I will throw a photo.
Many novice car owners often ask themselves questions about flushing nozzles in injection engines. The question is whether it is possible to clean them yourself or is it necessary to contact the service station to specialists. Also, many are interested in such a procedure as without removing it from the engine. Let's try to understand this issue.
Operation of dirty injectors
If the elements are clogged, then this can be felt by the reduced specific power of the car engine. Then detonation will occur at the moment of acceleration. The symptoms of contaminated injectors are especially pronounced on idling. The operation of the motor becomes unstable, the start of the power unit worsens, fuel consumption increases. Exhaust becomes more toxic. It is best to diagnose the operation of injectors at a service station.
If the diagnostics experts revealed that the main reason is the injectors, then they must be washed. There are options when elements are removed for cleaning. But it is also possible to flush the injectors without removing them from the engine. For those who will do it with their own hands, it is better to choose the second option. Naturally, if you disassemble the motor and dismantle the parts, the process of cleaning them is greatly facilitated. But this is not always convenient.
Diesel injectors
In such a motor, the nozzles operate at higher pressures and high temperatures. They crash more often. But these cleaning methods are not effective for them. Flushing the injectors without removing it from the engine is not suitable here. Cleaning a diesel without removing it is simply inefficient. It is necessary to disassemble, remove, diagnose on the stands.
Causes of pollution
Flushing nozzles is the operation that any engine needs.
Sooner or later, the owners of all, and even the most expensive cars will have to go through it. Knowing the main sources of pollution, you can delay as much as possible the moment when the problem can be solved only by flushing. The main cause of blockages in the injectors is low-quality fuel with a large volume of heavy elements. They are dissolved in fuel and easily pass through any filters. When the engine is stopped, all these elements settle on the nozzles. And the lungs - immediately evaporate.
Nozzle cleaning methods
Today there are two effective methods to clean the elements. To choose the one that will be most effective, you will have to study both options. So, washing nozzles on special stands is popular.
For this, special cleaning fluids are used. This method is quite effective. But in the case of cleaning old and very dirty nozzles, it will not give a result. Ceramic mechanisms are effectively cleaned on the stand. They also use liquid processing. In this case, it is possible to flush the injectors without removal from the engine, and with removal. But that's not all. Below we consider another, no less popular way.
Cleaning method with additives
It is considered the simplest. So, you just need to add a special additive with detergent properties to the gas tank.
These liquids are made by all self-respecting manufacturers of autocosmetics. If the task is to clean the entire engine power system, then you need to purchase injector flushing fluid. One bottle of 0.5 liters is poured into 50 liters of fuel. Thus, not only the injectors are flushed without removal from the engine, but also all elements of the power system. This includes the fuel tank, pressure control system, fuel pump and injectors. Choosing this option, it is worth considering that the method is associated with certain risks. All dirt, deposits and other substances that have been washed out of the tank and fuel line with the help of additives can further clog the valve in the pressure regulator.
Therefore, such treatment may be appropriate only in the case of preventive measures. This is not the most effective injector flush without removing it from the engine. Reviews of those who conducted it are rather negative. Another option is flushing with special systems for supplying flushing fluid. The process is carried out with the engine running, and it works on a detergent solvent. This method can be considered quite effective. The result of it in most cases is assessed as positive.
Cleaning without removing: preparation
Most motorists try to fill the tank with flushing fluid - this is a mistake, and this should not be done. In the process must be disconnected from the general power system. It is important to remember that there is pressure in the fuel rail. This do-it-yourself washing including) involves the dismantling of hoses. Therefore, you need to work as carefully as possible.
Next, you need to prepare a temporary power supply system for the engine. A plastic bottle is suitable for this. A pre-prepared cleaner is poured into it. For a motor with a working volume of 2.5 liters, 1 liter of the substance should be poured. You can use liquid at the rate of 100 gr. for 0.5 liters of engine capacity. Next, a little fuel is also added to the bottle. Pour half of the cleaner. Then a hose is put on the neck of the bottle and tightened with a clamp. The pipe must be cut into a separate, pre-prepared fuel pump.
Cleaning process
Next start and warm up power unit. You also need to pull the main fuel pump fuse. Several launches are required. This releases the pressure in fuel system. The hose that supplies fuel to the nozzles is removed, and a newly assembled structure is installed in its place. They are also dismantled from the "return" (it is "jammed"). Then turn on a separate fuel pump and check the tightness of all connections. If everything is in order, then you can proceed to the main part of the process. Start the engine and let it run for about 5 minutes. After that, he should “rest” for a few minutes. During this time, the cleaner will soak all deposits. Then the engine starts up again. This time he is allowed to work for about 30 minutes.
This time is enough for all pollution to burn out. All half an hour the motor should run on canvas. You can sometimes raise the speed to 2.5 thousand. After the end of the process, the system is disconnected and the standard power system is connected. Now you can start the engine and leave it for 10 minutes. During this time, the remaining cleaner will burn out. At the same time, you can check the tightness of all connections. Next, the engine is turned off, new candles are installed. Reset errors electronic block controls, if any. You can additionally carry out diagnostics and make sure that the power unit is working as expected. Is do-it-yourself washing of nozzles effective? Yes, it's quite effective. Moreover, it gives results in Russian realities, when it needs to be done every 20 thousand km.
Folk methods
You should not stop only on these methods. Some car owners like the way additives work. Others say that they pour a little kerosene into the tank and are not aware of such problems. Still others say that the use of additives is a lottery, and not flushing injectors without removing them from the engine. The advice of experienced car owners confirms that the most effective way is cleaning with a bottle and a separate gas pump.