Pretty interesting stuff about restoring a Mercedes. A lot of work, a lot of show-off, anticorrosive was poured from a bucket onto a composite body (by the way, this is also a question about composite). But nonetheless, it's a worthwhile job. Especially watch the video about painting and about salon restorers.
Original taken from aslan How to make a legendary car with your own hands.
Looking for material for the community kak_eto_sdelano
I accidentally stumbled upon a blog in which the author described how he created the car. This was not just any car, but a legendary car with an interesting history - the Mercedes 300SL "Gullwing". I became interested in the history of recreating an automobile rarity and plunged into a fascinating reading about how a copy of the legendary car was made from scratch, and not just a copy, but a car assembled from original parts.
Later, I was able to meet with Sergei, who made his dream come true and learn some details about the creation of the car. He gave me permission to take text and photos from his blog and make a post for the community readers.
In the process of creating the Mercedes 300SL "Gullwing", the suspension from the Mercedes W202 and W107 was used. Remembering that the best is the enemy of the good, we put adjustable shock absorbers. Particular attention should be paid to the gearbox rear axle, usually it is with him that the biggest problems arise, which is why customizers love non-split bridges so much. On a Mercedes, this unit, along with the drives, is assembled on a subframe, which greatly simplifies working with it.
The stainless steel exhaust system complies with the Euro 3 standard, and fuel tank- a real work of art: so that the fuel does not splash, partitions and overflow pipes are installed in it. In one of the photos - the steering wheel lock
In the Gullwing project, it was decided to use the next generation of M104 engines with a volume of 3.2 liters and a power of 220 hp. paired with an automatic 5-speed transmission. The choice of engine was not accidental - it is more powerful, lighter and quieter. The gearbox is primitive, with a torque converter, many of these units are familiar from the Mercedes W124, W140, W129, W210. A hydraulic booster was also installed, all units are new, so there should be no problems.
We make a body.
Back in 1955, Daimler Benz produced 20 cars with an aluminum body and 1 with a composite body. We decided to try composite.
After the manufacture of the body and assembly of the chassis, the crossing of the body with the frame begins. The process is so painstaking and dreary that no photos and words will convey. Assembly and disassembly, adjustment - all this takes more than one day. Many details are finalized on the spot, and the body is attached to the frame through special dampers with bolts in 30 places.
All body parts are installed and adjusted - doors, hood, trunk lid. There is a lot of trouble with glass - they are mounted on rubber seals, and since all seals are original and designed for steel, you have to strictly observe the thickness of the frames of the openings. Each part is removed, adjusted by hand and only then installed in place.
Many parts for the most popular rare models are still produced in small batches in some workshops, which is actively used by all restorers. But what is there to hide: the factories themselves forge their rarities, especially Audi and Mercedes have succeeded in this.
In many museums there are candid copies. So recently, a lot of "Horkhov" has bred. This is especially interesting, given that all factory documentation was lost during the war. Dozens of workshops on the equipment of those years churn out fakes, passing them off as carefully restored products. The devil is in the details.
So we just bought and collected all the details that could decorate any rarity for 500 thousand euros. I assure you, every nut and bolt (I'm not talking about rubber bands) is correctly marked in 1955. Everything is original, even the seats.
The body has already been primed, and this is the most important point, because the composite is a special material in painting, because plasticizers and all sorts of other complex things are needed here. The secrets of the primer are kept and no one will ever tell you. But it looks nice.
A short video from the painting process
In the meantime, the body is being painted, let's prepare the components for assembly. As I said - the devil is in the details, and there are more than 2 thousand of them in the car! Dashboard, she was looking for a very long time.
We also find devices and relays, of course, not everything turns out right away.
But with enviable patience and perseverance, you will have the opportunity to get a completely authentic instrument panel consisting of 80 (!) Parts.
The main thing is that it also works later: the devices are all expensive. Cheap is not good.
The body is covered in 6 layers of varnish, it is very beautiful and will not need to be pasted over with a chrome film. Yes, shagreen is a must, and the grain should be fine. Now they don’t paint like that anymore, they dilute everything with water, they have ecology, they protect nature. By the way, paint 744 (silver) is the most difficult to paint, any painter will tell you.
They finally married the chassis with the body.
Installed doors. It would seem that the matter is not tricky, but I want to tell you one story. The Mercedes 300SL "Gullwing" had many design flaws. One of them was the doors themselves: they were steel, heavy and hinged to the roof of the body, and were fixed by a spring enclosed between hollow steel tubes with hinges at the end.
In the extreme upper position, the spring was compressed, and when the door was lowered, stretching with a roar, the door slammed shut. When opening, it was necessary to overcome the resistance of the spring, which simply pulled out the door along with the brackets (900 euros each).
Experienced owners of "Gullwing" know that with inept use, this will inevitably lead to deformation of the roof, moreover, the brackets themselves simply break. The stem and spring assembly has become insanely scarce over time, and its cost has risen to astronomical heights. Each owner of such a rarity repairs these units once a season. We decided to go the other way and install gas shock absorbers.
It would seem that something easier, but it was not there. I had to develop the whole assembly, it took 4 months of hard work. Fortunately, there was a workshop that brought ideas and drawings to life. With full external authenticity, the doors today open like the rear fifth door of German SUV. The knot turned out to be so successful that it immediately became the object of desire for all owners of rarities, I think that soon all "gullwings" will have doors that open very effectively and smoothly, without knocking. Now this process has really become similar to the flapping of a gull's wing - gracefully and smoothly.
This is just one, and the simplest example of the tasks that had to be solved when building this car.
By the way, the door lock mechanism has also undergone changes. Despite the cost of 1,500 euros, it stuck very often and did not fix the door, but that's another story.
At the very beginning of the project, it seemed that interior trim was the smallest problem, since there are workshops for altering interiors at every step, so what, and now any master can handle leather. The business is to sheathe a bunch of details with leather, but as it turned out, this is a HUGE PROBLEM!
After four attempts to create interior details in tuning studios, I realized that everything is much more complicated.
Created products by no means wanted to look like the original. Everything looked like a cheap fake: the leather bristled, traces of heat treatment were visible, the texture did not match, and no one could pick up the material. In short, I began to delve into the subtleties and found out that modern masters are completely unable to work with felt, wool and other materials used at that time. They stupidly warmed and stretched the skin, used foam rubber wherever they could, actively worked with an iron, in short, mercilessly destroyed materials, depriving them of their naturalness and nobility. I'm not talking about durability either.
After suffering for half a year, we came to the conclusion that only restorers are capable of such work. They have a special paralon and felt. In general, they found a company, guys - wolves, uncles, under 60 years old, who have been restoring only Mercedes for 40 years. What they showed and told us is just a novel about skin, and they guard their secrets in much the same way as the secret of making paper for the dollar.
The video shows an example of the process.
Interior details for my baby were made for 4 months. The skin is just alive.
I will also add that the skin that manufacturers offer today is chemical bullshit with impregnations. It is not for nothing that all the owners of Mercedes and BMWs go nuts after a year of operation - the interiors look like those of old redvans: not fresh, the skin stretches, peels off. As I said earlier, the devil is in the details.
I'm not talking about vinyl, widely used by the Japanese, and by all manufacturers in principle. Now in a Mercedes there is not enough leather even for a jacket, one bullshit, that's why options appear - "designo", "individual", "exclusive". Leading manufacturers, at least for 10-15 thousand dollars, will offer you real leather, but what they sew for you for 50 thousand rubles cannot even be called leather.
Wheels are one of the important parts of a car. So for our handsome man there were two types of wheels. The first were placed on the civilian version.
The latter were offered as an option. They came from sports - real ones, with a central nut. Of course, it is nice to have chrome wheels, but the price of 5 thousand euros per wheel is somewhat annoying.
How then to hit a nut with a hammer, knowing that it is gold? original disc for the classics is also not cheap - 3 thousand euros. So I think, I really want to save 8 thousand euros.
One of the main factors in the operation of the engine is the removal of exhaust gases (combustion products). I do not want to recall here the laws of thermodynamics, I will only say that the last 150 years exhaust pipe is a symbol of progress. Remember locomotive pipes, steamboats, blast furnaces. Remembering my love for details, I want to assure you that it was the pipe that was given the closest attention. This is a masterpiece of engineering.
The exhaust system is made of stainless steel, which no manufacturer can afford, and is a complex system of thick-walled and thin-walled pipes mounted one into the other, which made it possible with complete authenticity appearance pipes solve the problem of "gulving" - noise and heating of the cabin. Well, the main thing is the sound of the exhaust, it's just a song. The problem was solved with the help of resonators installed inside the system.
If you want to understand what kind of car you have - look at the exhaust pipe!
Don't pay attention to the date on the photo, just bought a decent fotik. They snapped it off, but they didn’t figure it out with the instructions, it turned out to be the wrong date. Well, to hell with it, everyone interested, enjoy.
We have made many changes to the design, we try to do everything as authentically as possible. A very clever hand.
With a tank, a separate song, they made their own from stainless steel, slightly changing the location of the neck, but this is a separate story.
There is a good saying - it is better to see once than to read about it a hundred times. Everyone who reads and watches my blog knows my favorite expression - THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAILS. These are the details that I will show you today. There is no point in writing for a long time, you will understand everything yourself.
Braided harnesses and wiring, well, I think you just haven’t seen this yet, a two-tone horn, in short, just look, all this is called TECHNOLOGIES.
The main task facing the implementation of this project was to create complete authenticity of all interior details. It would seem that it could be easier than copying an existing sample, but as they say, everything is not so simple, and much more difficult than even restoring.
So, we had to get all analog devices working, and work correctly with electronic blocks modern units; put in a cramped little car a bunch additional equipment such as air conditioning, hydraulic booster, brake booster. All this should work from standard toggle switches and switches. The dampers of the stove used to have mechanical drives, as on the Volga Gaz 21, so the stove had to be completely redone. But the biggest problem was the manufacture of the gear selector.
The whole difficulty lay in the fact that the car was originally built for sports, it was small and very low, even the engine had to be placed at an inclination of 30 degrees so as not to break the silhouette of the car. The box was located in the tunnel and had a direct articulated drive.
There was no more than 2 cm of free space between the box and the box itself. I have already said that the car itself was cramped and very noisy, and this problem had to be solved. Since a standard engine-box pair was taken, the task became even more difficult, because automatic transmission much larger in size and has a completely different control principle.
After much torment, a hinge and a linkage system were designed, which made it possible to completely imitate this assembly, which can be easily seen by looking at the original.
Well, the most interesting: if you carefully study the photos, you will see that the seats are much lower than the original, this is also a trick. The fact is that the car was so cramped that a person with a height of 180 cm rested his head on the roof and was forced to sit hunched over at the steering wheel, but I like to drive with straight arms, so I had to change the angle of the steering column to ensure comfort and not violate general form. How this was achieved is a novel, from the manufacture of the unique sled to the alteration of the floor and seats.
I'm not the first to decide to recreate the legendary car. Back in the late 70s, similar attempts were made in America, with Tony Ostermeier, a former mechanical engineer from Gardena, the furthest advanced. He managed to build about 15 cars in 10 years using units from Mercedes of those years. Today, these machines are themselves rarities.
I saw them, of course they are not as high quality products as we would like, but this is the best thing that has been done. In the 1990s there were attempts American company"Speedster" using Tony's matrix to implant it on the components of the "Chevrolet Corvette C03". Only 2 cars were made. One of them is now in Ukraine, and the other in Moscow. The cars were sold for $150,000.
Actually, that's all. True, there were attempts to put a shell on the SL and many more high-profile statements, but all this is zilch, people ran ahead of the locomotive, as with our yo-mobile: there is nothing yet, but 40 thousand applications have already been submitted.
By the way, working with a composite is very difficult. Only its high-quality painting costs about 10 thousand euros. Well, and most importantly: FORGING AND COPYING ARE TWO BIG DIFFERENCES.
They say that everything in the car should be perfect, both the engine and the trunk. On the first car, they decided to use gas shock absorbers to open and fix the trunk lid.
We redesigned the filler neck a little, reasonably considering that if it would fit tightly to the trunk lid. this will reduce the risk of spreading the smell of gasoline inside the passenger compartment in the event of a spill.
I didn't like the idea. On this car, they made it closer to the original, changing only the shape of the filler neck (the steel funnel around the cap should prevent fuel from spilling onto the Carpet).
Of course, it could not have done without a collective farm: they built a leather condom around the filler neck. It seems to look nice, and they abandoned the shock absorbers, putting the native mechanism (stick) for fixing the trunk lid. It was possible, of course, to get confused with the springs, as on modern machines, but I think it will kill the very spirit of the machine. The open trunk looks great.
And yes, the back looks great. Considering that today everyone already uses tubeless tires, we decided to free up space by placing a stowaway in the trunk instead of a standard wheel. Now at least there is a place to throw a string bag.
Actually, the case is inexorably moving towards its logical conclusion. Of course, it's nice that everything ends so quickly, it remains to smear with a movilchik and stick the wheels.
The wheels are temporary so as not to spoil the original.
That's basically it!
Let's go around the car.
I can only add one thing: before you start doing something, think carefully about whether you have enough strength to finish what you started.
After arriving in Russia.
Video from inside the recreated car.
In this video, you can see how the Germans are restoring the hero of the report, the same "gullwing".
And then they noted that the owner has two options for the "legalization" of such a car. The first is to design the car as a cultural value. The second is to register as a vehicle. The first option in the framework of this article does not interest us too much, because all that cultural value can do is stand in a museum: Titles are not issued for such cars, and you can’t drive them. So let's consider the second option.
So, you have looked after a car that is already 30 years old, and it needs to be imported into the Russian Federation. It is clear that the engine old car cannot comply with the Euro-5 standard, which is a prerequisite for the import of cars into the Russian Federation, and for retro cars in the current Regulations on Title, an indulgence has been made. Paragraph 71 of the Regulation, in particular, states that the requirements for compliance with the eco-class "do not apply to ... motor vehicles of category M1, from the date of issue of which 30 or more years have passed, with the original engine, body and, if available, the frame, preserved or restored to original condition».
Thus, in order to register your "old lady", you only need to establish the fact of authenticity or high-quality restoration of a maximum of three components - body, engine and frame. How to do this, we will tell a little later, but for now it should be noted that not everything is so simple with this situation itself. More precisely, situations - because they can be different. So let's start with the most difficult ones.
Collectible cars, "replicas" and "budget donors"
Suppose a connoisseur of automotive technology imports a real pearl into Russia - a collectible car worth about 1,000,000 euros ... How to understand that this is not a fake? For clarification on all related issues, we contacted the company Antique Cars, which has been engaged in the restoration, sale, maintenance and examination of oldtimers for more than a decade.
The company's specialists note that collectible cars are purchased for the purpose of investment, and therefore there are certain risks that can negate costs:
Buying a non-original car, when a car made at the present time (copy, “replica”) is sold under the guise of a real oldtimer. Thanks to the development of modern technologies and the high quality of "replicas", in some cases it is possible to distinguish the original from the remake only with the help of technical methods analysis - for example, radiocarbon or x-ray phase. At the same time, it is worth noting that high-quality “replicas” are, on the whole, a completely legal business, often close to real art.
Horch 853, built for the legendary racer Bernd Rosemeyer and named after his beloved Manuela. The original has not survived to this day, but for a high-quality replica made according to the drawings and technologies of those years, they ask from 70,000,000 rubles
Buying a car with "remake" parts - an engine, a body or other significant components installed later, "not factory" by.
Newly made engine block for the ZIS-101 car Buying a car converted from a "budget" version, when an available mass-produced model is used as a donor and during the repair they give it the appearance of a more expensive version. This is possible, for example, with the Mercedes-Benz 230n Roadster (W143) of 1937, the units of which are similar to those used on the mass limousine of the same model, and the difference in the price of cars is significant. Or with the rare Soviet "catch-up" GAZ-23, which is still being obtained according to the "classic" recipe - by installing the engine and gearbox from the GAZ-13 Chaika.
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In order not to make mistakes, you should contact the experts who specialize in this. In Europe, many organizations provide such services - Russian restoration workshops also conduct an examination (Antique Cars is one of them). The cost of examining a classic car depends on a number of factors: brand, year of manufacture, troubleshooting parameters, purpose of the examination, methods used, and so on.
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Not least because of these risks, unrestored cars have become highly valued in the global collector car industry. Let time not spare them, peeling paint on the body and through rust, the wheels are lowered, and decayed upholstery reigns in the cabin.
But this is exactly what is unique - the cars are in their original, unrestored condition, keeping traces of time and abandonment. And that is why now it is considered aerobatics to restore the car so that the restorer's hand is not visible.
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Well, if you need a high-quality “replica”, then nothing is impossible here either. Although there will certainly be a lot of difficulties and, accordingly, investments.
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Finishing the topic with expensive collectible cars, we note that the described "pitfalls" are usually resolved before customs, and before the import clearance procedure vehicle are not directly related. Let's turn now to the simpler cases - the ones we started with: you liked a car over the age of 30, located abroad. In order not to receive a Euro-5 certificate for it, but at the same time to receive a TCP, you need to confirm that the body, engine and frame (if any) of the car are original or restored to their original state. How to do it?
Oldtimer - how and where to confirm originality?
The procedure for obtaining the necessary documents and subsequent customs clearance causes difficulties for many - this whole process seems too tricky. For example, future owners of authority often have a typical Russian question: is it possible to formalize everything according to the law? Some of these questions are removed by a comment from "Antique Cars":
We have been specializing in classic and collectible cars for decades. Museum collections and private collections were created with the direct participation of our employees. Of course, there have been curious cases, there are some technical errors or typos in documents, but all issues can be resolved within the legal framework. We did not encounter any “excesses on the ground” or “unofficial methods”. AT last years both the legal framework and the qualifications of employees of state departments are being improved. The procedures for importing and registering cars have been significantly simplified. However, work in this direction continues - a conference “Changes in Russian legislation regarding the import, legalization, insurance, registration and operation of old-timers” was recently held, and in addition, amendments to the relevant legal acts of state authorities are being agreed.
If you are a private person and want to import an oldtimer into the Russian Federation, then an important document for you confirming the condition of the car is a certificate (conclusion) on the originality of components and assemblies - body, engine, frame. This document, in fact, replaces the Euro-5 certificate for the owner of a retro car, and it is through it that customs officers are convinced that the car is imported in its original version. You can issue this document in accredited organizations - there are many of them, but one of the largest is the Center for Technical Expertise of FSUE "NAMI", which has a wide range of regional offices.
For help necessary and sufficient:
- A copy of the so-called title (invoice) for the imported car;
- Document for the purchase of a car (purchase);
- A copy of the passport of a citizen of the Russian Federation;
- Payment for the services of an expert.
How exactly is the procedure for obtaining the necessary document, we were told by the director of the Center for Technical Expertise of FSUE "NAMI" Andrey Vladimirovich Vasiliev:
At customs, a so-called temporary release for testing is issued. After that, the car comes to us for inspection - a specialist examines it and confirms the identity of the components. The service costs from 10,000 to 20,000 rubles.
Note that the prices for conducting an examination vary greatly depending on the organization conducting it - for example, in some companies we were told amounts of 30,000, 50,000 and even 100,000 rubles. After drawing up a conclusion on the originality of the components of your car, you will still have to pay customs duties and, in fact, the customs clearance procedure, which also has many nuances. But you already have all the necessary documents in order to import the coveted device to Russia.
I am a very long-time subscriber of the magazine - even with YuMK, the numbers of which I once looked for on newsstands. Even today, M-K filings give impetus to creativity, they are a technical encyclopedia and a reference book, so I keep almost all issues.
Since my school years, I have always been making something: at first, models of ships, aircraft. Having matured, he began to create working machines (there was information about some of them in M-K No. 5 for 2005).
For all the time I made about two and a half dozen homemade products. Some of them still benefit and facilitate labor in household. This is a walk-behind tractor with a VP-150 engine, with the help of which I process a personal plot: plowing, cultivating, milling, planting, hilling and harvesting - all with the help of it. A mini-tractor and a mini-car “work” on the farm, on which I transport goods. On the move and a scooter with a cabin - for trips in bad weather.
1 - frame (ash timber 50 × 50); 2 - decorative headlight (tin can, 2 pcs.); 3 – chain transfer of a steering (from a bicycle); 4 – cardan hinge of a steering; 5 - engine control knob ("gas"); 6 - control lever (pedal) tension roller(clutch); 7 – parking brake handle; 8 - engine; 9 - driven two-strand pulley; 10 - chain drive sprocket and rear axle rolling axis; eleven - drive chain; 12 - driven sprocket of the drive; 13 - front axle; 14 – draft of a steering
In recent years, he has assembled a three-wheeled velomobile (two front wheels - steerable; rear, larger diameter - leading) with a voluminous trunk for household transportation. I made a glider simulator, but, unfortunately, it has not yet taken off: either it is heavy, or the wind in our places is rather weak.
But when he retired, he created a design “for the soul and by age” - a car in retro style.
The retro car presented in the article was assembled not so long ago - in 2014. I really wanted it to look like the first cars - more like strollers with a motor. Therefore, the wheels took the spokes, cycling, and the car decided to make a single, walking.
Retro car cabin: on the right - the engine control lever (shift lever "gas")
Rear axle: right - drive sprocket, left - brake drum
Actually, drawings on their own homemade cars I don't, except for the parts I order. If necessary, I make a model on a scale of 1:10 in order to have a three-dimensional representation or templates.
But this time I drew an “X-ray” side view and a front view on a scale of 1:10, and then I drew the nodes and adjusted them in place. For this car, the only drawings are for the drive and mounting of the rear wheels, since turning work was necessary there.
The frame of the car is assembled from maple beams 2000 mm long and 50 × 30 mm in section, which are fastened together by notches. A subframe is welded from steel pipes with diameters of 20 mm and 16 mm. seat and trunk frames that are bolted to the frame. Wing and cockpit frames are made of 5 mm wire.
The front axle is suspended from the frame on single-leaf quarter-elliptical springs (from passenger car). The front beam is made of a steel profile pipe of rectangular section 30 × 25 mm. Cups are welded to the ends of the beam, into which bearings 6200 are pressed from below and from above. A bolt with a diameter of 10 mm is used as a king pin. A wheel fork, bent from a tube with a diameter of 16 mm, is attached to the kingpin with the help of angle brackets. From below, tips for fastening the wheel axle and swivel levers made of 3 mm thick steel sheet are welded to the fork.
1 - steering cardan shaft; 2 - chain drive; 3 - bipod; 4 - short thrust; 5 - long (cross-wheel) traction; 6 - lever knuckle(2 pcs.)
1 - fork of the right wheel (left - mirrored); 2 - bracket (corner 50 × 50, 4 pcs.): 3 - washer (4 pcs.); 4 - glass (2 pcs.); 5 - bearing 60200. 4 pieces); 6 - spring mounting platform (2 pcs.); 7 - kingpin (M10 bolt); 8 - scarf (4 pcs.); 9 - right swivel growling: - transverse thrust; 10 – rotary lever of short thrust; 11 – the left rotary lever of cross draft
Control pedals (near - clutch, far - brakes) and steering mechanism with universal joint and valuable transmission
Intermediate transmission shaft: on the left - a two-strand block of driven pulleys: on the right - a chain drive of the drive rear right wheel
Steering. Tie rod ends - from the card, with spherical bearings. The rods themselves are made of steel tubes with a diameter of 12 mm. A long rod connects the wheels, and a short one is connected at one end to a bipod - a connecting rod with an asterisk (from a teenage bike), and at the other - to a swing arm (left). The pedal carriage is welded to the frame. Above the carriage is bolted wooden block with a hole (oak). A shaft passes through the hole, at one end of which a small sprocket from a bicycle is fixed, and at the other - a cardan assembly. The sprockets (small and large) are connected by a bicycle chain. gear ratio 1:3. The cardan assembly is connected to the steering wheel shaft (from a motorized stroller).
Rear axle with part of the frame - from the map. The rear axle shaft rotates in three bearings. At the ends of the shaft for mounting the wheels - clamping flanges. There are two more flanges on the shaft. One is for attaching the brake drum, the other is for attaching the driven sprocket. The rear axle is suspended (movably fixed) along the axis of the intermediate shaft and sprung with two shock absorbers from the scooter.
Engine and transmission. 6.5 hp forced air-cooled engine - from a walk-behind tractor. Rotation from the engine to the intermediate shaft is carried out by a V-belt drive, from the intermediate shaft to the right semi-axis of the rear axle - by a chain drive from the bicycle. On the intermediate shaft, on one side, a block of two pulleys of different diameters is fixed. With larger pulley maximum speed car - 30 km / h, with a smaller pulley - 40 km / h. Pulleys - one aluminum from washing machine with a diameter of 220 mm, another with a diameter of 180 mm, self-made, machined from textolite. On the engine, the block of pulleys is three-stranded, from the Neva walk-behind tractor, also of different diameters (transferring the belt takes a few seconds). At the other end of the shaft is an 11-tooth sprocket. There is a 60-tooth sprocket on the rear axle shaft. A V-belt transmission is used as a clutch. The belt is "engaged" with the pulleys by means of a tensioner pulley. The roller is connected by a cable to the clutch release pedal in the cab.
Brakes. A brake drum from a moped is fixed to the rear axle shaft with a clamping flange. Drive to the drum with a cable from the pedal in the cab. Parking brake - band.
A rubber-fabric tape is thrown over the brake drum. The tape is clamped with a handle on the left side of the cab.
1 - nut and locknut; 2 - centering washer; 3 - landing sleeve; 4 - flange (steel); 5 - locking plate; 6 - bolt M8 (4 pcs.); 7 - axis (screwed into the end of the shaft); 8 - clamping flange; 9 - shaft (Ø25); 10 - wheel hub
1 - nut and locknut; 2 - conical washer; 3 - bicycle overrunning clutch; 4 - axis (welded to the flange); 5 – bearing 104; 6 - flange (steel); 7 - stepped washer; 8 - clamping flange
The body of the car is wooden, made of 3mm plywood, except for the floor, front panel and seat base, which are made of 10mm plywood. The plywood is covered with drying oil and twice painted with enamel.
Cabin awning is sewn to a black wire frame. The foam seat (and the back too) is covered with brown leatherette. Behind there is a small trunk. Decorative headlights - paint cans. Lighting - two battery-powered LED flashlights. Rear brake light and turn signals, bicycle electronics. In the cockpit there is a bicycle speedometer driven by front wheel, turn switch, wheel and on the right - the "gas" handle. The headlights and radiator surround are bronzed.
The retro car is not idle, like an exhibit. Last summer, I drove it on rural roads for more than 500 km. I made a trailer of the "medvedka" type for it, on which I transport up to 100 kg of cargo. There were no breakdowns. The attitude of others to the car is the most friendly.
N. KURBATOV, Belgorod region
Residents of the Moscow region have collected and put up for sale a unique homemade car. The prototype of the convertible was the Mercedes Stirlitz, however, the craftsmen found the details only from the Zhiguli. But the ingenuity and golden hands helped.
Like a real rarity, under a layer of dust, this convertible will wait six months for heat in the garage. And its designers and owners count the number of sunny days in the Moscow region, in which the car will not be idle. The idea to create a car with an open body appeared by accident.
An image from the cinema and the desire to have a convertible. Since modern convertibles cost crazy money, I had to do something from the past that is pleasing and attractive to the eye and that would be unusual for modern convertibles.
- Valery Zemisov.
Work went on for about seven years. And even now the car requires improvements: we decided to improve the gearbox. So next winter - a big renovation.
Driving performance can be determined while we roll it out of the garage. The car is heavy and has to be pushed by three people. And, perhaps, not too maneuverable. The designers were inspired by the fashion of the 30s of the last century. We traveled, by the way, then not as fast as now. Therefore, the engine was put here from an old Niva, which belonged to one of the designers.
When they registered, they were surprised what kind of Mercedes it was, according to the documents it was a Zhiguli. When you go, many turn around, show "super"!
- Valery Zemisov.
The most unusual thing about the car is the fiberglass body. Inflated wings were cast in their own workshop. The rest of the details are from the entire global automotive industry, and something was borrowed even from yachts.
All this is homemade. Klaxons and these corrugations. The Niva engine is standing, the chassis is from Mercedes. Salon from Chrysler, something was done by hand. Made of wood, decorative, as well as ordered the awning itself
- Valery Zemisov.
As a result, the cost of parts alone is more than a million rubles. The time spent on work cannot be calculated. Now the car is up for sale for one million seven hundred thousand rubles. But users social networks the idea of selling the original convertible was skeptical. Because it has no historical value. While the car occasionally leaves for weddings or photo shoots, and spends most of the time in the garage.
The cats loved it. Everyone loves it, including cats. Cats climb, they like to climb, get warm, walk on soft
- Valery Zemisov.
However, the owners do not lose hope that there will be the same enthusiastic person as they are and will bring the project to perfection.
Today we want to invite you to make an original gift for a man with your own hands - a retro car. The car can be used as an independent gift, or filled with something - sweets, etc.
For work you will need:
- corrugated cardboard, any industrial box can be disassembled;
- corrugated paper - black and white;
- hot glue and a gun to it;
- twisted cord;
- screw caps;
- toothpicks;
- buttons;
- semibuses;
- Styrofoam;
- jars from under shoe covers;
- thin plexiglass;
- a piece of mesh;
- acrylic paint as needed;
- every little thing that is at hand.
Basic tools - ruler, scissors, clerical knife.
We take cardboard, cut out the bottom according to the indicated dimensions.
We cut out two sidewalls, I didn’t know how to describe the dimensions in more detail, I hope it’s clear.
Where it will be outer side, attach the covers to the places where the wheels are supposed to be. Circle with a pen.
We glue all the details with white corrugation. if desired, you can pre-paste the cardboard with office paper so that it does not shine through. in places where the covers were circled, it is also necessary to apply glue, it’s not scary that it shines through. Paste the outer part of the parts first, then the inner.
We glue the parts together.
I glued the sidewalls from above, to the bottom.
We cut out a part from cardboard, tried it on, everything fits well. We paste over the corrugation.
Now let's take care of the hood, measure the height in this place.
And here it is necessary to measure. Add the height and length of the hood together and cut out one piece of cardboard. IMPORTANT! Cut this part and subsequent ones across the inner veins of the cardboard.
Now we need to make such an incision on the cardboard.
We try on, if the sizes do not match - we cut.
We measure a piece of foam plastic along the hood cover, cut out the desired piece and glue the foam plastic to the cardboard. Styrofoam thickness 2 cm.
On three sides we round the angular edges of the foam.
Here's what should happen.
We glue the part with white corrugation and glue it to the car body. IMPORTANT: this and subsequent parts must be glued across the folds on corrugated paper.
Now let's get to the trunk. We also cut out a piece of cardboard across the veins. We measure the bottom of the trunk.
The top of the trunk and of course the height of how measured the hood. And the length is an arc. You can roughly measure with a ruler or use a tailor's centimeter - it doesn't matter. The difference can then be cut off.
Tried, the height matches. We remove the detail and work with it further.
We begin to cut the cardboard between each vein about half of the part.
It’s hard to explain further, I think it’s clear from the photo that you need to try on the car body and finish cutting the cardboard into strips as shown in the photo. Turn the piece over and make one cut on the reverse side.
We glue the part with corrugation and glue it to the body.
Here is such a crocodile turned out.
We wrap the edges with a cord. We glue a loop in front, as in the photo, for a future bead.
We also glue a loop on the back.
If desired, you can glue such a side, but you can do without it.
We leave the body and take up the wheels. You will need 8 covers and black corrugation.
We fold the two covers in one direction towards each other. One side of the wheel is concave, the other convex.
We apply the corrugation in this way and begin to pull the covers along the edge.
We closed the paper, we also coat it with glue inside.
On the concave side of the wheel, we try to push the paper all the way, as in the photo.
If there are such holes in the middle, we glue it with a circle of corrugations.
And in this way we glue two small drops to the wheel. The distance between the spokes is not important.
That's how it happened.
For the centers of the wheel, I choose buttons without legs. In extreme cases, the legs can be cut or broken.
Glue the buttons in the middle and wrap everything around with a cord.
I decided to glue more half-beads here.
Put the wheels aside and grab the seats. We cut out 4 squares of 4.5 cm from the foam. The size may vary, it is better to try on in place, leaving a small gap. The thickness of the foam is 1.5 cm.
We rounded the edges like this on three sides, pasted over with black corrugation and cord.
We glue in place first the seats, then the backs.
We glue the finished wheels into place.
Now let's take care of the wings. we cut out two strips of cardboard about 45-47 cm long and 4 cm wide. And again across the veins on the cardboard.
I always try on the position of the wing by eye.
This is how it should turn out. Measure the width of the nut - 2 cm. Draw a line from the nut to the very end of the wing.
Cut off the unwanted part. Here's what should happen. Along the edges 4 cm, threshold - 2 cm.
We glue it with black corrugation, glue it to the body. You can first sketch out the places for gluing with a simple pencil.
Glued wings, edged with a cord.
Take a piece of thin plexiglass. if this is not the case, you can use dense polyethylene, a plastic folder, etc.
We try on the hood, cut out the desired piece, edging with a cord.
We glue the parts like this.
Now to the car.
From these details I made a steering wheel - improvised means. I show just as an example, not as a sample. It's hard for me to even describe them.
Already finished steering wheel.
Cut the leg obliquely and try on the place before gluing.
The lever was made from a piece of wooden skewer and a tip from an umbrella spoke.
We glue the parts into place, the lever between the seats fits well.
Let's move on to the muzzle. I glued the mesh and edged it with a cord.
Same thing on the hood.
On the trunk, you can decorate as it pleases, the main thing is that the composition does not interfere with the trunk opening function.
We imitate a cord of a door.
We cut out such a detail from cardboard, paste it over with corrugation and glue it here.
According to the size of the printed license plate, we cut out one more detail, a little more than the license plate.
Glue it in place like this.
For rear bumper we cut out approximately such a detail, the length and width are approximate, as you like.
We try on the body under rear wheels and cut like this.
Glue to the bottom like this.
We glue the same part with the number as in front.
We take jars from shoe covers, open them, wrap the base with black corrugation, close the lid, paint the lid or select the lid to match the color of the car.
Glue the headlights in place. We insert a bead into the toothpick and glue it to the hood above the loop.
Of these two parts, I made a horn, I also post a photo for an example.
I wrapped the ball with polysilk, and the socket with metallized corrugation, connected everything and glued it to the body. door handle imitated with a wooden bead. I cut it in half and glued the halves to the door.
Well, that's all! Mechanical engineering is over! Now enjoy!
