FRONT SUSPENSION
Kinematic diagram of the front suspension. 1- ball bearing; 2-hub; 3-brake disc; 4-protective cover; 5-turn lever; 6-lower support cup; 7- suspension spring; 8-protective cover of the telescopic stand; - compression buffer; 10-upper support cup; 11-bearing of the upper support; 12- top support of the rack; 13-rod nut; 14- stock; 15- compression buffer support; 16-telescopic rack; 17-nut; 18-eccentric bolt; 19- rounded fist; 20-shaft drive front wheel; 21-protective cover of the hinge; 22-outer shaft hinge; 23-lower arm.
The front suspension is independent, MacPherson strut-type, with telescopic shock absorber struts, coil springs, lower wishbones and anti-roll bar roll stability. The arrangement of elements of a forward suspension bracket on the car is shown on fig. 1, 2, 3, 4.
The main element of the front suspension is a telescopic shock absorber strut 1 (Fig. 2), which combines the functions of a telescopic element of the guiding mechanism and a damping element of the vertical vibrations of the wheel relative to the body. A twisted cylindrical compression buffer 4, a protective casing 5 of the strut and an upper support 1 are assembled on the shock absorber 1 (Fig. 1). Through the thrust bearing installed in the upper support, the load is transferred to the car body. The shock absorber strut with its lower part is connected to the steering knuckle 3 (Fig. 4) of the front suspension. The front suspension arm is attached with its rear part to the cross member 2 (Fig. 3) of the suspension with the help of a silent block and rubber bushing, and the front part through a ball joint is connected to the lower part of the steering knuckle of the front suspension. The crossbar, in turn, is attached to the side members of the body.
The anti-roll bar 1 with rubber pads mounted on it is connected to the cross member 2 of the front suspension and to the levers with four brackets.
Rice. 1. 1-Upper suspension strut support; 2-screw; 3-rubber cover; 4-upper support cup; 5, 7-washer; 6-spacer sleeve; 8-nut.
Rice. 2. 1-strut shock absorber; 2- spring; 3-nut; 4-compression buffer (chipper); 5-protective cover (anther); 6-bolt; 7-washer.
Rice. 3. 1-roll bar; 2-subframe; 3-nut; 4-inner pillow; 5-outer pillow; 6-bracket for fastening the inner cushion; 7, 8, 10, 13, 14 - screws; 9-sleeve; 11-bracket; 12 washer.
Rice. 4. 1-Swing arm; 2, 5, 6, 7, 8 screws; 3- rotary fist; 4-washer; 12 ball joint.
The front wheel hubs are mounted on double row angular contact ball bearings. Bearings for cars with and without ABC differ from each other by the presence of a magnetic strip. Those. on a car with ABC, you can install a bearing without a magnetic strip, but then the ABC system will not work.
Rice. 5. 1-outer CV joint; 3- nut; 7-bearing; 8- hub.
When replacing the front struts and front suspension springs, change these parts only in pairs (right and left at the same time)!
The FIAT Albea car is equipped with gas-oil front telescopic shock absorber struts. On sale under analogues substitutes are also sold gas-oil shock absorber struts.
Just oil and as some say "gas" on the horizon have not yet been seen!
OEM part numbers for front suspension.
Front pillar: original;: 51702390 (without ABS), 51702389 (with ABS).
analogues from the manufacturer: 51708823 (without ABS); 51708824 (with ABS).
Below are also analogues of front shock absorbers from other manufacturers, suitable for Albea 100%.
AM-4134 (without ABS) - (Conson, Turkey); 
have rigid characteristics, do not differ much from the original.
CRX21056 (without ABS) - (Carex); 
FT-1013 (without ABS) - (Alco/Gober); 
ASG8824 (with ABS) - (Automotor, France); 
have soft characteristics. With them, the car rides more smoothly, hard hits "in the front panel" disappear. The changes are especially noticeable when rolling down a suburban highway.
FORCETECH PS 9710211 (with ABS) - (Maysan Mando, Turkey); 
G16356 (with ABS) - (Monroe). 
shock absorber support left: Shock absorber support right:
original: 46760673. original: 46760674.
In many catalogs, shock absorber mounts beat the other way around and on FIAT Doblo they are installed the other way around (674-left, 673-right). In our car, the upper shock absorber mounts are installed in exactly the same order as above.
46466619 - shock absorber boot; 
46464298 - shock absorber bumper;
46777766 - rubber gasket for the spring;
7082812 - ball bearing;
46748579 - rear right silent block;
46748578 - rear left silent block;
46421522 - front silent block;
51744226 - outer stabilizer bushing;
51769073 - suspension arm assembly, right;
51769074 - suspension arm assembly left;
46828588 - knuckle rotary right;
51759339 - knuckle rotary left;
46776762 - hub bearing (without ABC);
46532573 - hub bearing (with ABC);
46738808 - inner stabilizer bushing, for stabilizer 46738806 (diameter 22 mm);
46738807 - inner stabilizer bushing, for stabilizer 46738805 (diameter 21 mm); 
46833041 - front spring.
In the "classic" and "comfort" car trim levels, the front springs have more rigid characteristics, in contrast to the "base" configuration. Outwardly, there are no differences, the difference lies in the marking of the springs. On the "base" - this is one white and two green dots; "classic" and "comfort" are one yellow and two brown dots.
Replacing the front struts and springs.
Before replacing old (killed) racks, it is necessary to carefully diagnose the condition of the above elements. So that later it would not be sad when you remove the rack and disassemble it into components, you will understand that there are not enough new elements for repair, since it makes no sense to put the old ones back.
When the front suspension struts fail, the working fluid (oil) gets on the protective rubber boot, thereby corroding it and rendering it unusable. Also, failures of the front suspension strut mounts are not uncommon. In general, to replace the front struts, in addition to the struts themselves, you may need:
- Dampers (chippers);
- Protective cover (anther);
- Upper shock absorber mounts;
- Springs.
Before replacing the front struts, you need to make simple measurements as shown in the photo below.
And if the dimensions you measured match and the size from the edge of the wing to the center of the wheel axle is standing car equal to 373 mm (photo 1) or less, then the front springs must also be replaced. Because in this case, the weight of the car is not spring-loaded, but lies with a polyurethane bump stop on the rack and the car suspension does not work. For those who have doubts about the correctness of the calculation, they can make the calculations themselves. In photo 2 there is the size of the full extension of the rod from the rack, photo 3 is a fender installed in its place (the height of our fender is 93 mm). 435 mm is the size from the edge of the wing to the middle of the wheel with the front wheel jacked up.
Optimal size from the edge of the wing to the middle of the wheel, installed without load on the ground car, for high-quality operation of the front suspension is - 385-390 mm.
And so, to replace the front struts and springs, you will need the following tool: a spanner wrench for 13 (upper rack mount), a spanner for 19, spring couplers, a hexagon for 6 (unscrew the top nut for 19 supports), an open-end wrench for 17 (compress the springs)
A-pillars AM-4134 (without ABS) - (Conson Turkey). 
Front springs Kilen 12161 
Comparison of old (stock) and new springs. 
Spring height 380 mm and bar thickness 12 mm absolutely identical to the springs installed at the factory.
As practice has shown, the Kilen 12161 front springs, with all the external attributes, turned out to be not very good. good quality. Slipped literally in the first months of operation. Therefore, I do not recommend these springs for installation on a car, the result will be the same: money spent in vain!
Front springs Taksim FT-3034 
They have the following dimensions Height 400 mm and bar diameter 12 mm. The difference in length is 20 mm, and in fact, the photographs show a more stretched method of winding. Such springs, judging by the catalogs, are intended for installation on vehicles equipped with diesel engine with a volume of 1.9 liters. Such springs are accordingly designed for a large load.
Universal anthers with chippers, Japanese-made code 04-020, where 020 denotes the diameter of our rack rod 20 mm and length 98 mm. The length of the fender had to be shortened by one ring, i.e. under the size of 84 mm (the size of the standard chipper is 93 mm). By installing anthers with bumpers of this brand, we simultaneously solve another childhood illness of our car - this is the knock of a plastic bumper on a metal support cup.
Below is another option.
Racks ASG8824 (with ABS) - (Automotor France) + boot Birth 51560 (new on the left) on the right, the old swollen from oil. The new one is indistinguishable from the original.
The appearance of the old racks that have served their purpose and the section of the used support.
Elimination of squeaks in the front suspension.
If characteristic squeaks occur in the front suspension (rubber crunch) after the car overcomes large bumps on the road (example: speed bump), the first thing to pay attention to are two components of the front suspension that can make these sounds:
External stabilizer bar bushings;
- Front silent blocks front lower arms pendants.
Accordingly, we are trying to solve the problem of the occurrence of squeaks with little blood, for this, first we replace the stabilizer bushings. Maybe this is where our search ends.
Remove any front wheel.
We unscrew the central mounts on both sides of the stabilizer and the outer mount of the stabilizer on the opposite side where the wheel was removed.
Change the stabilizer bushing.
Elimination of knocking anthers of the front struts
1. We jack up the front of the car so that the wheel hangs out. It is not necessary to remove the wheel - it does not interfere. We lower the duster down.
2. We cut out a ring with a diameter of 80 mm from rubber of any thickness. Inner diameter under the rod about 15 mm
3. We put this economy on the stock and lift the boot into place.
Behind the bumpers, the situation is similar to the front, in order to get rid of knocks, we perform a similar operation on the rear shock absorbers.
Do-it-yourself repair of the lower control arms of the front suspension. Experience of one of the owners.
First, let's get the accessories.
To press out the outer bushing of the front s / b, I purchased a s / b puller 2108 and 8 washers 30 x 16.
For pressing, I used a bushing of a suitable diameter and a bolt with a rocker arm from a universal bearing puller.
It turned out to be more difficult to remove the ball bearings and the old s / b, which did not fall out on their own, I had to cut, drill, saw rubber in order to release the outer bushing of the front and the inner rear s / b. The bushing of the rear s / b is cut off by a grinder to the axis, torn off with a gas wrench, after which it is easily removed. To remove the ball joint, it is necessary to cut off the heads of the rivets with a grinder, and drill out the body of the rivets, or press it out with a press (if any).
The device-conductor for pressing the rear s / b had to be made by myself.
The process of pressing s / b is clear from the photo. We install the conductor on the lever, bait three bolts so that a small hole. in the lever coincided with small holes in the jig (for centering, you can use a drill with a diameter of 5 mm), tighten the bolts, drill a hole in the lever to a diameter of 6.1-6.2 mm and insert a pin with a diameter of 6 mm from good hardened steel (the drill shank bends when pressed ). We first wash the bushings and axles, then we press in the c / b. The nuance is only in the correct orientation of the rear s / b, which is done visually, combining the plane of the s / b bracket with the plane of the conductor corner.
Half day work with breaks.
HOW TO CHOOSE
Since Albea has not been produced since 2012, you will have to choose exclusively for secondary market. I prepared thoroughly for the purchase, reviewed many options, at least ten pieces. I noticed that many cars, even relatively fresh ones, have stained interiors. Upholstery, as a rule, easily soiled, poor quality. But it's not the best main disadvantage, especially since it is partially eliminated with the help of covers. Many cars with conders have bypass rollers. I understand this is weakness at Albea. Not critical, of course, but I really didn’t want to bother with the replacement. At one time I had a similar problem on Peugeot 206. So I ended up taking without air conditioning. It also came out cheaper. In summer it is a little stressful, of course, but I can stand the heat well, I am thermophilic.
Otherwise, I did not find any special flaws in the cars, which in itself pleased me. In the end, I dug myself a copy of 2011 with a mileage of only 36 thousand in a very good condition. For a year and a half, I dashed off almost 17 thousand more and (Pah-pah!) The machine asked for little during this time.
INTERIOR AND COMFORT
The exterior of the car, I think, it makes no sense to describe. Anyone who has ever seen on the street knows what Albea looks like.
So I'll go straight to the insides.
In general, comfort is not quite the word that should be applied to Albey. Salon, although its size suits me quite well, many may find it cramped. The doors are thin, almost like on our basins like VAZ 21-15, which I also had to ride ... The pockets in the doors are very small, narrow and incapable. A folded umbrella hardly fits into such a pocket and ... and nothing more. In such cases, I often recall with sadness my old Renault Symbol, where the pockets in the doors were like drawers in a closet, even special departments for one and a half liter bottles were provided. And it would seem that a budget foreign car of the same class ...
Interior trim is also very simple. Everywhere fabric. Even the doors are lined with fabric on the inside. Not leatherette, not plastic, but a thin cloth! I have never seen such machines. I already spoke about the soiled interior. With regard to seats, this issue is solved with the help of covers, but with regard to doors, it is not solved. This, of course, is a minus. Not the biggest, but a minus.
Of the pleasant moments, I can note the three-level brightness of the interior lighting and a very comfortable soft gearbox. I move the pen with one little finger, like a toy.
The trunk for a car of this class is large, roomy. In my opinion, this is a plus and a very significant one.
The stove fires properly. But I noticed a shortcoming. It's only really warm when you direct the airflow towards you. If up or mixed positions, then noticeably colder. And if you point it at your feet, then in winter you will generally freeze. Here on Peugeot 206 I liked the stove better. No matter where you go, it's still warm.
All electrical is working properly. Even in very coldy did not fail. Very smart heated rear window. I was surprised that for some reason there are fog lights in my configuration, despite the fact that there are no fog lights, from which there would be much more benefit. Irrational. But what is, is.
In general, for an unpretentious owner, this car has everything you need. But don't expect anything special inside. Of the advantages, I can also note the body with galvanization. It probably matters to some.
If you have a car without an air conditioner, then the compartment under the hood on the left looks like something was not reported there. Don't be scared. Just such a device. In other configurations, this empty space is occupied by air conditioning, a belt and rollers.
The hood opens in a very peculiar way. It’s not enough, as usual, to pull the lever from the passenger compartment, so you also need to find and pull such a thing under the hood. It bothered me at first, but I quickly got used to it.
The doors are locked by pushing the handles inwards. Not very comfortable. I like the classic locks on top. However, at a speed of 20 km per hour, the doors are automatically locked, so I almost never use these locks.
Obviously, the first Fiat is depicted on native rugs ...
The gas tank hatch opens with a button from the passenger compartment, which is very convenient.
Native caps are screwed together with the wheels. So you won't get lost along the way!
DRIVING PERFORMANCE
The quieter you go, the further you'll get. I said from the very beginning that it was a donkey. Arranging races on Albea is just stupid. For its characteristics, the car accelerates normally. If we compare from what I had in the same class, then it is definitely slower than Renault Symbol, but faster than Peugeot 206. On the track, even some basins overtake. But on the other hand, the Albeyka holds the road well, does not wag, you feel confident. And most importantly, you know what is reliable.
CONSUMPTION
I'm quite satisfied. With a 1.4 liter engine in the city in the summer, I have real consumption it turned out from 5 to 6 liters per 100 km. Economical. Now in the November off-season, taking into account traffic jams and warm-ups, the consumption is about 7 liters. Last winter it reached 9. But again, I will make a reservation, I have a very economical driving style. I switch ideally, wherever possible, I go to neutral. Kettles, or vice versa, fans can burn one and a half times more fuel. The owner is a gentleman, as they say.
The Albea gas meter is not very convenient in that it does not show the number of liters spent per 100 km, but the number of kilometers that you drive per liter. That is, the higher the number, the more economical the ride. As much as possible, the device can show 50 - and this means that your consumption at the moment is 2 liters per 100 km. Not very convenient to recalculate, but I adapted.
BUILD QUALITY AND POSSIBLE TROUBLES
Although this is a Fiat, it is felt that our "craftsmen" still collected it. Fortunately, it is felt only in small things. Having driven Albea for a year and a half, I can say that the engine of the car is just excellent, the hodovka is generally normal. It is unlikely that this machine will give you some serious trouble. But there are little things that can spoil the mood. Here are some of the ones I encountered.
doors. Doors on Albea are just some kind of hemorrhoids. Basically, all the minor troubles were associated with them.
- Case one. It started with the fact that after rolling the first autumn, I began to notice that something was flopping in my back seat all the time, as if I threw a bottle of water there. At first I couldn't figure out what was going on. Then I guessed that the sound comes from rear doors. Shake them back and forth. So it is - inside the water! How did she get there? The rains were good, of course. But where did the water seep through? Searched, searched, and found it. The rubber bands on the windows were of poor quality. There are tiny holes in the corner, and on both rear doors. Through these holes, water gradually leaked during the rains. I sealed the holes with sealant. It won't pour anymore. And how to pour out the water that has already been collected? At first I went, not knowing what to do. So he splashed water from behind. I'm very tired of it. I was already thinking about drilling holes in the doors somewhere from below, so that it was imperceptible. I began to inspect the doors and accidentally found special factory kingstones below, closed with rubber valves. Well, as if specifically for this occasion provided! Through these kingstones, I poured five liters of water from each door. Hasn't been picked up since then.
- Second case. In the first winter, during the first frosts, on one “happy” morning, all four doors froze. None could be opened. I had to pour boiling water. After that, I properly missed all the joints, but still a couple of times it happened that they froze, though not all at once and I could get into the car.
- Case three. Having rolled for about a year, I noticed that the front passenger door began to fit loosely. The lock slams shut, but with some strange sound, and the door, when viewed from the side, seems to be skewed. At first I thought the hinges had sagged. Well, I think I'll have to go to the service, go broke. Then he carefully examined everything again and found that the bracket on the rack, for which the door lock clings, had loosened. The issue was resolved in half a minute with an asterisk screwdriver. And a miracle! The door was in place.
- Case four. At about the same time, one of the rear doors creaked with a loose bracket. The issue was resolved with the help of a Vedash.
- Case five. It happened very recently. And it is connected not so much with the door itself, but with the handle on it. If you open the driver's door, then the handle on it itself does not return to its original position, it stays up and up. Looks like a spring has broken. As a result, in order to slam the door, you first have to lower the handle, and then slam it. Here's what I'm thinking about doing. Again, it seems to be a trifle, but again annoying. Winter is on the way. I don't want to pay money for something like this. Most likely, I will drive like this until spring, and then in warm weather I will disassemble the handle myself and fix it.
- Case six. This time there are no doors. The trouble turned out to be connected with the very gearbox that I like so much. It happened in March. I left the house one morning, warming up the machine beforehand … I stick the first one … nevermind! What the hell?! I start to poke the handle back and forth. None of the transmissions are engaged. The handle moves in only one position - horizontal. I spent about twenty minutes, cursed and went to work by bus. This was the only case when I decided that the machine failed. The most interesting thing is that the car was actually fine, and if I knew what the problem was, I would have solved it in three seconds. But I didn't know that at the time. In the evening, when I returned from work, I fiddled for another two hours, hoping that the box would work. Nothing happened. I realized that the case is rubbish, it seems that something serious has broken. This incident happened on Friday. And the next day I asked my brother to tow me to the service. So we hooked up the cable and drove off. Let's go, let's go, and it's not far from the service ... But I don't want to fork out for a new box! So I tried for the thousandth time to stick some kind of speed, although I knew that it was useless. And here is a miracle! Happened! The box is perfect as before. Well, I immediately signal to my brother to slow down. So we didn't get to the service. What happened? Don't know. We then decided that something was frozen inside. The weather was such that it would either melt or freeze. And as the car drove a little in tow, everything fell apart and it became all right again.
- Case seven. A few days later, in one wonderful morning, the same rubbish with a box was repeated. I, already taught by bitter experience, grunted, got out of the car, put pressure on the back with my heroic shoulder and rolled it forward from half a meter. That was enough. The box is working again.
In general, I described cases when the car gave me minor troubles. They did not cost me a penny of money, but they slightly frayed my nerves. However, theoretically, if you yourself don’t figure out what’s what in time, each of these cases could serve as a reason for contacting the service, where they would not miss the opportunity to divorce me ... So keep in mind if you are thinking of buying such a car. Sometimes you have to turn on your brains and hands. Rarely and on trifles, but it is necessary.
COSTS AND DAMAGE
Now that the machine asked for a year and a half of operation.
Total for a year and a half invested in the car 10 780 rubles. I don't count oil and filter changes every six months. It goes without saying. Judge for yourself whether it's a lot or a little. In any case, nothing else broke, and I really hope that nothing will break for a long time (Pah-pah!).
On the whole, I really like my donkey, and I plan to ride it for quite a long time, especially since I have invested in a hodovka. Yes, the machine is small. Yes, not for Schumachers. Yes, not for those who love comfort. Yes, minor flaws are possible, and I honestly talked about them. But all this I consider uncritical. In general, the car is reliable, it is felt that it is durable. And this is the main point. Definitely recommend for people who are not picky.
Premiere Fiat car Albea took place in April 1996 under the names Fiat Siena and Fiat Palio. In 1999, the first modernization of the car was carried out, and in April 2005, the second modernization and restyling. The car is produced in Poland (Tikhi), under the Fiat Albea brand in Turkey (Bursa), and since December 2006 in Russia at the enterprise of the SOLLERS group of OAO ZMA in Naberezhnye Chelny.
For Russian market cars assembled in Turkey and Naberezhnye Chelny are supplied with engine 1.4 l (77 hp) and mechanical five-speed gearbox gears.
This site describes the car Russian production as the dominant one in the volume of the Russian market of this model.
Fiat Albea cars are made only with a sedan body in three basic configurations: Base (immobilizer, height-adjustable wheel, power steering, heated rear window, central locking, full size spare wheel, driver's airbag, height-adjustable head restraints, fire prevention system, headlight range control, audio preparation, bumpers, body-colored exterior door handles and sill trims, Follow me home device); Classic (compared to the Base package, it additionally includes body-colored electric rear-view mirrors, luxury door upholstery, front power windows, on-board computer, 40/60 split folding rear seat, air conditioning, fog lights); Comfort (in addition to the equipment of the Classic package, the driver's seat is adjustable in height and lumbar support, ABS + EBD, front passenger airbag).
The body of the Fiat Albea car is load-bearing, all-metal, welded construction with hinged front fenders, doors, hood and trunk lid. wind and rear window pasted. The driver's seat in the Base and Classic trim levels can be adjusted in the longitudinal direction and in the backrest, and in the Comfort configuration - additionally in height and lumbar back support, the front passenger seat - in the longitudinal direction and in the backrest. The front seats and the seats for the rear side passengers are equipped with height-adjustable head restraints. The backrest of the rear seat in the Classic and Comfort trims can be folded forward in parts in a ratio of 40:60.
The transmission is made according to the front-wheel drive scheme with front wheel drives equipped with constant velocity joints. All cars are equipped with a five-speed mechanical box gears.
Front suspension MacPherson type, independent, spring, with anti-roll bar, with hydraulic shock absorber struts. Rear suspension semi-independent, spring, with hydraulic shock absorbers.
The brake mechanisms of the front wheels are disc, ventilated with a floating caliper, the rear wheels are drum brakes, with a device for automatically adjusting the gaps between brake pads and drums. Brake system equipped vacuum booster. On cars in the Base and Classic trim levels, a regulator is installed braking forces in the hydraulic drive of brake mechanisms rear wheels. Vehicles in the Comfort package are equipped with an anti-lock braking system (ABS) with a distribution subsystem braking force(EBD).
Steering safety, with a rack-and-pinion steering mechanism and a tilt-adjustable steering column. All cars are equipped with a hydraulic booster. The frontal airbag is located in the steering wheel hub.
All cars are equipped with inertial diagonal seat belts for the driver, front passenger and outer passengers in the rear seat. For the middle passenger in the rear seat, a non-inertia lap belt is provided.
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE VEHICLE
| Parameter | Characteristic | |
| common data | ||
| Number of seats including driver | 5 |
|
| Curb weight, kg. | 1113 | |
| Maximum permissible weight, kg. | 1530 |
|
| Wheel base, mm. | 2439 | |
| Wheel track, mm Front/rear |
1414 / 1438 |
|
| Minimum turning radius, m | 5,2 |
|
| Maximum speed, km/h. | 162 |
|
| Car acceleration time from standstill to 100 km/h, s. | 13,5 |
|
| Fuel consumption per l/100 km | ||
| in the urban cycle extra-urban in a mixed cycle |
8,2 5,0 6,2 |
|
| Octane number of gasoline, not less than | 95 |
|
| Engine | ||
| Model | 350А1000 | |
| Type of | With fuel injection system | |
| Number and arrangement of cylinders | 4, in a row | |
| Cylinder diameter and piston stroke, mm | 72.0x84.0 |
|
| Cylinder displacement, cm3 | 1368 |
|
| Compression ratio | 11,1 | |
| The order of operation of the cylinders | 1-3-4-2 |
|
| Maximum power kW (hp) | 57(77)/6000 |
|
| Maximum torque N m (kgf m) | 115(11,8)/3000 |
|
| Transmission | ||
| Clutch | Single disc, dry, with diaphragm pressure spring and torsional vibration damper, permanently closed type | |
| Clutch Release Drive | hydraulic | |
| Transmission | Five-speed, with synchronizers in all gears, except for z.x. | |
| Gear ratios 1st gear 2nd gear 3rd gear 4th gear 5th gear Z.Kh. |
4.27 2.24 1,44 1,03 0,87 3,91 |
|
| main gear | Single, cylindrical, helical | |
| Gear ratio of the main pair | 4.10 |
|
| Differential | Conical, double satellite | |
| Wheel drive | Open, shafts with constant velocity joints | |
| Chassis | ||
| Front suspension | Independent, spring, with hydraulic shock absorber struts and torsion-type anti-roll bar | |
| Rear suspension | Semi-independent, with coil springs, hydraulic shock absorbers and torsion-type anti-roll bar | |
| wheels | Steel, disc, stamped | |
| Wheel size | 5.5JX14SN ET44 | |
| Tires | Radial, tubeless | |
| Tire size | 175/70R14, 185/65R14 | |
| Steering | ||
| Steering | Safety, with hydraulic booster, with steering column tilt adjustment | |
| Steering gear | rack and pinion | |
| The number of turns of the steering wheel from lock to lock | 2,65 |
|
| Brake system | ||
| Workers: front rear |
Disc, ventilated with floating caliper Drum, with self-centering pads and mechanisms for automatic clearance adjustment |
|
| Service brake drive | Hydraulic, dual-circuit, separate, made according to a diagonal scheme, with a vacuum booster and a four-channel anti-lock braking system (ABS) and an electronic brake force regulator (EBD) * | |
| Parking brake | Mechanically driven rear wheels from the floor lever, with switch-on signaling | |
| electrical equipment | ||
| wiring diagram | Single wire, negative pole connected to ground | |
| Rated voltage, V. | 12 | |
| Accumulator battery | Starter, maintenance-free 60 A / h. | |
| Generator | AC, with built-in rectifier and electronic voltage regulator, maximum current 65 A. | |
| Starter | With mixed excitement remote control with electromagnetic activation and freewheel, power 1.0 kW | |
| Body | ||
| Type of | All-metal, load-bearing | |
*Only in the Comfort package. In the Base and Classic trim levels, a mechanical brake force regulator is installed in the hydraulic drive of the rear wheel brakes.
➖ Dynamics
➖ Body sail
➖ Manageability
➖ Noise isolation
pros
➕ Roomy trunk
➕ Reliability
➕ Suspension
➕ Economy
Advantages and disadvantages of Fiat Albea 2008 identified based on reviews real owners. More detailed pros and cons of Fiat Albea 1.4 with mechanics can be found in the stories below:
Owner reviews
I'm happy with the car. For six years I have traveled 115 thousand km. Replaced muffler 2 months ago. It started up to minus 30. It didn’t start only once - a year ago, it stood at -30 for two days. The battery has not been changed.
Front wheel bearings were replaced, front silent blocks on both sides, but it's my fault — I drove on bad roads (broken asphalt with pits).
I think the disadvantage of the car is the increased fogging of the car (air conditioning helps). After three years of operation after frosts, problems with locks began - the handle does not return to its original position, you have to press it.
The great advantages of the car are efficiency and a large trunk with the ability to recline rear seats. There were problems (stuck) with gear shifting (to fourth after fifth) - similar to that on the Zhiguli (7th model).
Noise isolation, of course, I would like better. MOT took place every 15 thousand km. I think the Fiat Albea is a very good family car for a quiet, not fast ride on good roads.
Nikolay, review of Fiat Albea 2008 1.4 on the mechanics
Video review
Acquired in 2008 average configuration. I've been driving for 6 years now, traveled 98,000 km. There were no maintenance and repair problems, because. so far I have not changed anything, only oil, filters and candles.
The battery is worthy of respect, endures 6 years. Starts up in cold weather with no problems. Consumption is really pleasing. The engine is weak, but it is enough.
Trunk volume is enough for all things when you go to long trip with my family. The plastic is harsh, but it is set tightly, you can’t compare it with a domestic car. All in all, good car for our conditions.
Review of Fiat Albea 2008
During the operation, Fiat has shown itself to be a very strong and reliable device. There were no terrible breakdowns for 60 thousand kilometers. If you remember, I only changed consumables, rear shock absorbers, outer CV joint, clutch kit, ball joints, radiator fan resistor (the second speed of rotation was switched on immediately), valve cover gasket and bulbs.
From the pros:
- High driving position + impressive ground clearance of 18 cm for a minisedan.
“Never once in all the time did he get stuck anywhere, rowing to the last.
— Consumption on the highway 5-6 liters.
- Highly strong suspension, which forgives most of the holes that come across on the way.
- A good stove, it heats up quickly, the air conditioner also did not cause problems.
- A huge trunk for a car of this size (500-something liters) + folding seats into a flat floor, carried pipes 2.5 meters in the car.
- Until now, there is a native battery, it has never happened that the car did not start from auto start even at -30 °.
- Doors are blocked at speeds over 20 km / h (useful thing).
— For the city of dynamics is enough.
— The car is absolutely unpretentious in every sense.Of the minuses:
- It is quite difficult to find spare parts for it in Murmansk, and they cost decently. You have to order from Chelny or Moscow, but they still cost decently ...
- Once or twice a year, in cold weather, the coolant temperature sensor is buggy (the arrow falls, the check lights up, the arrow immediately comes back, and the check burns until the next day).
— The paint on the arches can not stand the pebbles flying out from under the wheels.
- The steering wheel is not tenacious, cheap plastic affects.
“Crickets come out every now and then, although they leave in exactly the same way.
- You need to slow down the speed in the turn, it will not be difficult to roll over, if there is a desire ...
- Overtaking on the highway is not a particularly pleasant experience, and from the oncoming lane it is constantly thrown along the road, the side wind also “loves”.Review of Fiat Albea 1.4 with mechanics 2008
Pros:
- Inexpensive car.
- The car is operated even at -53, and it starts up without a "bowler" even at -35. In my climate - a definite plus!
— The suspension is chic, not only I say this, but all my friends and acquaintances.
— Spacious trunk and relatively spacious interior.
- In winter, the stove really fries, at -30 after 30-35 minutes it even becomes stuffy.Minuses:
— Severe lack of power, low top speed.
- Really expensive spare parts (visor - 2,500 rubles, front bumper - 19,500). Small amount official dealers around the country.
— Antifreeze leak in the cabin, but the truth is at temperatures below -35.George, review about Fiat Albea 1.4 manual transmission 2010
Drove 20 thousand km. Moved from Focus. Compared to the previous one, of course, the difference is in the details, not in favor of the latter. And these are door locks, wipers, a high torpedo, an unsuccessful design of the adjustment and air ducts of the stove, the clutch pedal gets stuck on a rubber mat, etc.
Pros: engine efficiency, good gear ratios in the gearbox, good handling, high landing.
The main disadvantages: it does not shift well from second gear to first, the clutch gets stuck on the rubber mat every other time; when starting in cold weather, it shows "engine failure" - throttle valve weak point of the engine, it is necessary to periodically clean and carry out software adaptation after cleaning; inconvenient location of the filler neck of the washer reservoir; due to the large "sail" of the body on a slippery road, it can skid with sudden gusts of wind (again, a comparison with the Focus on the same road).
General assessment: the car is not bad, worth the money. The main function of the "vehicle" performs perfectly!
The owner drives a Fiat Albea 1.4 with a 2012 manual.