It grabs but won't start. Why does the car seize but start

Every car breaks down sooner or later, all car owners face this. Often the starter is to blame for this, sometimes it turns, but the car does not start.

Main reasons

Problems with the starter can lead to unpleasant situations on the roads, and to solve them, you need to use two methods:

1. Fix the damage yourself.
2. Deliver the car to a car repair shop for diagnostics by specialists.

Even if the car still starts, but not the first time, we recommend that you fix the problem as soon as possible, following the following sequence:

• Check the condition of the spark plugs.
• A malfunction is possible due to clogged fuel filters which also need to be examined.
• A weak battery also causes this malfunction, so it needs to be fixed.
• Make an inspection throttle valve on the car should also be done.

As statistics show, this problem often occurs at negative ambient temperatures. But even despite external conditions, it is necessary to act in exactly the same way. Many drivers rely on self-elimination of the problem, which is considered a gross mistake. The brand of the car does not greatly affect this malfunction, but sometimes it occurs due to design features. vehicle.

You can go online and find out a lot useful information, but if in doubt, it is better to take the help of an auto mechanic. Drivers often refer to this problem as "the starter is acting up and the car will not start" and "the car does not start right away." By and large, this is the same malfunction that says that the car is not able to start.

The reasons for the breakdown can be the following:

• fuses are faulty;
• there is rust on the battery;
• discharged battery;
• the ignition coil does not produce a spark;
• there is condensation on the inner surface of the hood;
• malfunctions fuel system car.

Starter failure is the most common cause of malfunctions in the vehicle ignition system. You need to know how to check this part for suitability. In new foreign-made cars, most often the starter breaks down due to low levels of lubrication or dirt. For such cases, it is recommended to remove it, disassemble and clean it from foreign debris. Quantity lubricants needs to be supplemented. Do not forget that it is better to remove the starter from the car before work.

If the car seizes, but the engine does not start

If it is not possible to make repairs in a car repair shop, then you will have to fix everything yourself. This does not require special skills. First of all, you need to clean the contact points battery. Candles of the car also check and clean from dirt. Bad and dirty starter contacts can also cause engine failure. The best way to find the problem is by elimination.

The fuel supply system also plays a significant role in the operation of the car. With good starter operation, at the time of engine failure, we check it. It is a carburetor, a special pump and. It is best to start checking with the pump. On some vehicles it may be electric. When the ignition is turned on, the sound of a running motor should be heard, if it is not heard, then it could burn out. Also, a lack of voltage can stop it from working. In this case, you need to check the fuses.

On carbureted cars, on the contrary, it is necessary to check the mechanical pump. You can find out about its working condition using the hose of the outlet fitting of the pump or carburetor. Using a special handle, look after the condition. If gasoline began to splash out of the pump, then the entire system is working properly.

On injection cars, we carry out a similar procedure. The only difference is the location of the fitting. As soon as the valve is pressed, gasoline will splatter from the hose. The fuel must be under high pressure at the fuel pump. In this case, you can judge the good technical condition.

If after these procedures the engine also does not start, then it is best to go to a specialist. In car workshops, it is necessary to produce complete diagnostics vehicle carburetor. It is practically impossible to do such a procedure on your own. It is performed using special equipment. Replacement and diagnostics is a rather costly process, so you need to choose a good workshop. Many experts note that in order to eliminate such breakdowns, it is necessary to regularly conduct an initial technical inspection of the machine.

Starter problems

Often fails in cars of any production. He does not have enough strength to spin, and therefore bring the engine to work. To solve this problem, you need to know everything vulnerabilities this machine part. The driver needs to check the performance. The starter on foreign cars is more whimsical than on domestic cars.

For troubleshooting, it is recommended to remove it from the car and make a complete cleaning of the body and fasteners. Old grease must be carefully removed from the part. It is quite simple to do this, but you should not abuse it. You can check the starter for noise level. If a click is heard when trying to ignite, and it does not spin, then the cause is in the relay. Therefore, here you only have to change or repair it. But it should be remembered that the relay is repaired if it is disassembled into its component parts.

Video

Often there is a situation when you turn the key, the starter turns the crankshaft confidently, but the car cannot be started. Some drive the engine until the battery runs out, in the vain hope that it will suddenly grab. In fact, after two or three unsuccessful attempts, you should be taken to troubleshooting.

1 The engine does not start when the starter is running - possible damage

When the starter turns, but the engine does not start, it is difficult to find the cause right away. It is required to look for faults in quite a few places. Let's start with the starter. We turn the key again and listen to the sounds it makes. The characteristic smooth buzz of an electric motor should come from it without failures and nothing more. If you hear clicks, hum and extraneous sounds, we are looking for a problem in the starter. In good condition, the engine most often does not start, because fuel does not flow or it does not ignite.

If the fuel is supplied, the ignition is in order, the starter turns, but the engine does not start, we are looking for the cause in the electrical equipment: we check individual sections of the electrical circuit and its elements. The reasons can be very simple: the fuse is blown, there is no contact due to a break or oxidation. Rarely, but breakdowns do occur electronic block management. Sensors that send erroneous signals to the computer may break down, and it incorrectly regulates the ratio of fuel and air, its supply to the engine.

A phenomenon is possible when the engine shakes violently when starting, it seems to start, but does not catch. The reason may be electromagnetic pickups that prevent the sensors from correctly processing data and sending a signal to the computer. Pickups can create an electromagnetic field of the starter. If there are crankshaft position sensor (DPKV) failures, the engine will not be able to start. At the same time, fuel is supplied normally, the crankshaft is well scrolled by the starter.

Malfunctions at startup, when the starter confidently cranks the crankshaft, are quite common and do not depend on the type of engine.

2 Diesel - troubleshooting specifics

Ignition of fuel in gasoline and diesel engine fundamentally different. The compression stroke in a diesel engine occurs without fuel, it is injected at the very end of it, when the temperature in the cylinder reaches 700 °. Ignition of the fuel occurs when it comes into contact with hot air. Excess heat from the head is removed by the cooling system. To maintain the temperature inside the combustion chamber necessary for the ignition of the fuel, cold engine before starting it is heated by glow plugs.

If a cold diesel does not start, we start looking for a problem with candles. The starter can turn for a very long time, but with faulty candles, even at + 5 °, it is difficult to start the engine, not to mention the frost. First, we check the health of the control unit. We connect the light bulb to the candle bus and ground, turn the key. If the unit is good, the light will come on. Then we turn the key to its original position, turn off the power bus and check the glow plugs. We connect one contact of the 21 W light bulb to the candle, the other to the plus of the battery. If the spark plug is good, the light will be bright.

In any weather, the diesel engine will not start if the fuel pump is airy or the damping valve is faulty. We check with a light bulb - whether power is supplied to the valve. If it is, remove and put on the lead wire. A good muffler valve makes a clicking sound. If the valve is in order, air remains in the fuel system. We unscrew the return line of the nozzles or the plug through which we will bleed air. If there is a manual pumping of the fuel pump, we apply voltage to the valve so that it opens, and we pump diesel fuel until it flows instead of air. If the pump low pressure with electric drive, turn it on.

In case of failure, when it is not possible to pump diesel fuel, we check fuel filter: it may have been walled up by dirt or paraffin.

3 Gasoline engine - checking the fuel supply

The engine does not start if there are defects in the fuel system: gasoline is not supplied, the starting device. To check the fuel system carburetor engine we carry out the following operations:

1. We sharply open the throttle valves of the carburetor, observing the injection of gasoline (cover air filter removed beforehand). If the fuel is atomized, it is fed into the carburetor.
2. If fuel is supplied, but start cold engine impossible, check the starting device. Close air damper- it should completely block the primary chamber, and the throttle valve should open slightly by 0.8 mm. To check the operation of the throttle, you will have to remove the carburetor.
3. When the accelerator pump does not supply gasoline, it is not in the carburetor. We download manually, we start the engine.
4. We check the operation of the fuel pump: remove the hose from the outlet fitting and pump it. After a few strokes, gasoline should splatter.
5. If it was not possible to pump up gasoline, we check the fuel filter, the mesh in the carburetor sump. We change the dirty filter, wash the mesh.
6. Fuel still not being supplied? We disassemble the fuel pump and check the diaphragms. If they are torn, gasoline does not enter the carburetor, but into the sump, diluting the oil.

The oil should be changed, flushing is not necessary. We change the diaphragms, pump up gasoline and start the engine.

On vehicles with an injector, the engine will not start if the electric fuel pump is not working. Its serviceability is determined by the buzzing after the ignition is turned on. Sometimes the cause is oxidized terminals or a fuse, but it happens that the pump burns out. It may also be missing or insufficient pressure in the ramp if gasoline got there. On the opposite side of the gas line connected to it, under the cap, there is a valve. We press it - gasoline should splash from there. If this does not happen, we check the fuel filter, the intake mesh, the fuel pump pressure reducing valve (located in the gas tank).

4 Ignition - how to find and fix a breakdown

If the malfunctions with the fuel supply have been eliminated, and the car does not start, we begin to check the ignition. We unscrew the candles and check the formation of a spark. We put a wire from the distributor cover on the candle, touch the metal on the car with a skirt, and at this time the starter assistant turns the engine. On a working candle, a strong blue spark is noticeable. For injection engine the absence of a spark indicates a malfunction of the module, for a carburetor - a coil.

It is impossible to check the injector module at home, but the coil can be checked. On older models, one cylindrical coil is installed, on modern ones - a dual or monolithic module. The most advanced short circuits that are installed on each cylinder directly on the candles without wires. Coils with wires are checked simply: we pull out the central wire from the distributor, bring it to the metal of the car at a distance of 5 mm and turn on the starter. The presence of a spark indicates serviceability.

Often the distributor fails in the car - the burning of the contacts of the breaker-distributor does not allow the engine to be started. If the distributor is contactless, the Hall sensor may have broken. Is not characteristic fault– Sensors rarely fail. Among the most common distributor malfunctions:

• resistance burned out on the slider;
• the cover of the distributor burned out;
• the wires of the Hall sensor are broken;
• beating of the distributor shaft through worn bearings.

We check the cover of the distributor by replacing it: the car of experienced drivers is always equipped with a spare. Contactless ignition with a distributor has a switch, which is responsible for stable sparking. A faulty switch can cause the engine to not start. We detect a malfunction by hand - a broken switch is very hot.

In vehicles with electronic system most often various sensors fail. The fault is fixed, and an error message appears on the panel, each of which is assigned a code. Often ignition failures are due to wiring when there is no power. With some ECU malfunctions, the engine cannot be started. We repair the block in a car service or change it to a serviceable one.

1. Check the serviceability of the elements of the engine power system.
2. Check and fix possible faults engine control system after the ignition is switched on.
3. Actions depending on the thermal state of the motor:
   • If the air temperature (parameter TAIR) is below minus 25°C, then starting the engine without prior preheating oil in the crankcase and coolant is not recommended. The use of a 220 V starter charger is not allowed at temperatures below -30°C.
   • If the air temperature is -5...-20°C, it is recommended to warm up the engine receiver with warm water before starting. The starter cranking time of the engine should be no more than 10 seconds, re-cranking is allowed no earlier than after 1 minute.
   • Perform an air purge of the cylinders before starting if the air and coolant temperatures are below 0°C or if 2-3 attempts to start it have failed. To do this, press the accelerator pedal all the way down and perform a starter crank of the engine for (3 ± 1) seconds. Upon completion of the scrolling, check the condition of the battery, if the voltage of the on-board network (UACC parameter) is below 11.8 V, then perform battery maintenance.
   • It is not recommended to start the engine from an overheated condition when the coolant temperature (TWAT parameter) exceeds 100°C and the air temperature in the receiver is over 65°C.

1. Do not press the accelerator pedal before switching on the ignition.
2. Turn on the ignition. Perform the necessary actions in accordance with the "Basic recommendations before starting the engine."
3. Do not proceed to launch if:
   • the electric fuel pump has not yet turned off;
   • if the check engine light is on.
4. Turn on the starter scrolling of the engine for the time required for a stable start, but not more than 10 seconds.
5. If the engine does not start, proceed to the analysis of situations of unsuccessful engine start.

1. When the ignition key is set to the "Starter" position, the engine crankshaft does not rotate. There is no dip (up to 10 V and below) in the on-board network voltage, observed on the UACC parameter waveform. Self-diagnosis does not fix trouble codes.
2. • starter control or power supply circuits are faulty;
   • faulty starter relay;
   • the starter or its retractor relay is faulty.

1. The engine coolant temperature is above 5°C. When the ignition key is set to the "Starter" position, the engine crankshaft rotates slightly. The failure of the on-board network voltage observed by the indicator is below 7 V. The information connection with the control unit is interrupted.
2. Check and eliminate possible faults:
   • Insufficient charge or defective battery. Perform maintenance on the battery or replace it with a good one.
   • There is no reliable connection of the starter power circuits to the battery or to the engine ground.
   • The starter motor drive is faulty. Replace starter.

1. The engine coolant temperature is above 5°C. When the ignition key is in the "Starter" position, the engine crankshaft rotates steadily. The FREQ parameter (crankshaft rotation speed) is more than 200 rpm. Self-diagnosis of the unit does not fix system malfunctions or fixes individual fault codes for the primary control circuits of ignition coils 91 ... 98, 231 ... 238, 241 ... 248.
   • Check the condition of the power supply circuits (27b, 27c) and control circuits (1, 20) of the ignition coils.
2. The engine coolant temperature is above 5°C. When the ignition key is in the "Starter" position, the engine crankshaft rotates steadily. Parameter FREQ = 0 rpm. Self-diagnosis of the unit does not fix system malfunctions.
   • Check the condition of the wiring harness (48, 49) circuits of the position sensor crankshaft and the health of the sensor itself.

1. The engine coolant temperature is above 5°C. When the ignition key is placed in the "Starter" position, the engine "grabs" and stops. Backfires are observed in the intake manifold of the engine. The FREQ parameter (crankshaft rotation speed) is more than 400 rpm. Self-diagnosis of the unit fixes fault code 53.
   • Check for misconnection of the harness wires (circuits 1 and 20) to the ignition coils of cylinders 1.4 and 2.3.

1. The engine coolant temperature is above 5°C. When the ignition key is placed in the "Starter" position, the engine "grabs" and stops. The FREQ parameter (crankshaft rotation speed) is more than 300 rpm. Self-diagnosis of the unit fixes fault codes 53 or 29.
   • Check for incorrect polarity reversal in the harness to the crankshaft position sensor (circuits 48, 49).
   • Check the mounting gap between the end face of the sensor and the timing gear.
   • Check for malfunction and, if necessary, replace the synchronization sensor with a known-good one.

1. The coolant temperature is below 5°C. When the ignition key is turned to the "Starter" position, the engine "grabs" and stalls. The FREQ parameter (crankshaft rotation speed) is more than 400 rpm. The self-diagnosis of the unit fixes fault codes 53, 21 or 22.
   • Check the connection of the coolant temperature sensor or the possibility of an erroneous polarity reversal of the wires (circuits 45, 30d).
   • Check the connections 45 and 30d of the wiring harness to the coolant temperature sensor.
   • Check for proper operation and, if necessary, replace the temperature sensor with a known good one.

1. The engine coolant temperature is above 70°C. When the ignition key is turned to the "Starter" position, the engine starts and stalls. The FREQ parameter (crankshaft rotation speed) is more than 1000 rpm. Self-diagnosis of the unit fixes fault code 53.
2. 5 seconds after switching on the ignition, check the absolute pressure of gasoline in the fuel rail with a pressure gauge:
   • If it is higher than 3.5 kg / cm² (high pressure), then check the fuel drain circuit (drain insufficient):
     • clogging of pipelines, hoses and elements of the drain circuit;
     • malfunction (leakage) of fuel injectors;
   • If it is below 2.5 kg/cm² (high pressure), then check the correctness of the fuel filling circuit (the filling is insufficient):
     • leakage and clogging of pipelines and filters of the bay circuit;
     • malfunction (coking or clogging) of fuel injectors;
     • insufficient performance of the electric fuel pump (the fuel pump is faulty);
     • serviceability of the fuel pressure regulator (the regulator is faulty).

1. When the ignition key is turned to the "Starter" position, the engine starts and stalls. The FREQ parameter (crankshaft rotation speed) is more than 400 rpm. Self-diagnosis of the unit fixes fault code 53.
   • If the engine starts only with a partially depressed (8 ... 20% throttle opening) accelerator pedal, and the self-diagnosis of the unit does not fix system trouble codes (except for codes 53, 54), then perform preventive maintenance of the bypass channel or replace the auxiliary air regulator.