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Major breakdowns of Solaris. Away, doubts: Hyundai Solaris repair and maintenance

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asks: Smirnov Kirill.
Essence of the question: How to reset the "CHECK"?

Hello! I have a Hyundai Solaris, and the "check" light is constantly on! I already went to the station Maintenance and found out what the problem is. The first time they dropped it to me, and now it has appeared again, while the behavior of the machine has not changed in any way. Tell me, please, how can I reset it myself, because I don’t want to pay for it again in the service.

If the CHECK light comes on when starting the engine, then there is no need to worry. But if the check is on when the engine has already started, then you need to find out the cause of the error.

Diagnostics and removal of errors that occur on the Hyundai Solaris may be needed by the owner of the vehicle in different situations when there is no desire to do this work in a certified service center.

It is not difficult to do this work, the main thing is to know that you can remove it yourself errors related to the first level , that is, those that are not recorded in the memory of the computer, which do not significantly affect the operation of the car and its devices. Since only a special dealer device (scanner - approx.) can remove such errors, one of these errors is a car airbag error.

When are errors removed on their own?

Among all the important problems on the Hyundai Solaris, some can be reset on their own after carrying out one or another repair.

For example, error codes with 301 on 304 , indicating a spark gap in one of the cylinders (the last digit of the error refers specifically to the cylinder - approx.).

If the error indicates a misfire in the cylinder, first look at the condition of the spark plug. In the photo, the candle is the culprit of this error.

Accordingly, when these gaps are detected, the computer will give a signal in the form of a burning “CHECK”, which cannot be removed without erasing the code or resetting the terminal from battery.

This error is completely removed, only by replacing the non-working candle with a new one, after which the error will disappear by itself.

Self reset check for Hyundai Solaris

Resetting errors on your own on a Hyundai Solaris is possible thanks to the OBD-II protocol and the presence of a special adapter with a diagnostic device, whether it is a smartphone or a computer that supports Bluetooth wireless technology.

In order to check the errors on the car, perform the following steps:


Standard window for checking and clearing errors of the Scan Master program

The process of diagnosing and resetting errors without OBD-II

On Hyundai Solaris, you can diagnose and remove errors without even having any additional devices at hand.

Diagnostics (this method does not work)

The method described below runs all over the Internet. We tested on our drafting machine. He does not work. We do not delete the method, as some owners may think that it works.

Video disclaimer:


Removing errors

  • In order to remove the error, it is necessary to do the entire above-mentioned course of work from points 1 to 5, and without turning off the ignition, press the "gas" again.
  • After that, turn off and turn on the ignition, start the engine.
  • If the progress of the work was done correctly, the error should be removed.

As you can see for yourself, there is nothing difficult in removing an error on a Hyundai Solaris on your own.

On the video, the check is on and the Hyundai Solaris stalls

Hyundai Solaris. The engine does not start - causes, troubleshooting

Cause of malfunction

Remedy

Engine won't start

No fuel pressure in the rail:

Clogged fuel lines

Faulty fuel pump

Clogged fuel filter

Faulty fuel pressure regulator

Rinse and blow fuel tank and

Fuel lines

Replace pump

Replace filter

Replace Regulator

fuel delivery problems Check fuel system
problems with the mechanics (that is, with the engine itself) Run engine diagnostics

Faulty ignition system

Check electronic system engine management (ECM) "

Common reasons why a car engine won't start

The reasons can be both general and specific. Let's look at the most common problems.

The first place, perhaps, can be safely given to problems with the battery. Very often, the engine does not start as a result of battery discharge. However, it is not necessary that the charge is completely absent. In many cars, the starter will refuse to crank if the battery puts out less than 10 volts. Given this information, it becomes clear that you should not forget to recharge the battery on time.
However, not always a complete failure or problems with starting the engine are associated with a low battery level. Quite often, oxidized or loose terminals are to blame. From time to time, you need to clean them with sandpaper to remove a coating of oxide film, which does not conduct electricity well. The same applies to the contacts on the battery itself.
After stripping, it is recommended to lubricate the terminals with machine oil or lithol so that they do not oxidize. It would be even better to change the copper terminals and install brass ones.

In second place in terms of frequency, you can put a very simple and harmless reason - lack of fuel. There are two options: it may not be in the tank, or it does not enter the engine.
The actions of the driver in this case are extremely simple. First, check the tank (the sensor may fail or show incorrect values). Second, check the fuel line. Perhaps there was a leak somewhere and it filled with air. The complexity and cost of repair depends on the nature of the breakdown. Sometimes it is enough just to replace the hose under the hood.

Fuel may not enter the combustion chamber due to a clogged carburetor or nozzles on injection engines. In addition, it happens that the fuel pump fails. The reasons for this may be different, but the most common of them is overheating of the fuel pump. Of course, we are talking about those cars in which the pump is installed under the hood (usually carburetor). It overheats especially often in the summer heat.
Another option, although very rare, is that gasoline has lost its properties (evaporated, diluted with condensate, etc.). This happens if the car has stood for more than a year. In this case, it is enough to add fresh fuel or drain the residues, and then refuel with suitable fuel.

Problems in the ignition system

No spark at spark plugs or wet spark plugs. This is also a very common reason why the engine will not start. You can check the candles yourself. To do this, you must have a candle key in the trunk. Checking for a spark is also not difficult.
To do this, you need to unscrew the candle, put a contact wire on it and try to turn the ignition key at the moment when the candle itself is near the metal. A good spark should be "fat" and bright. If the spark is weak or not at all, it is worth taking a closer look at the contacts of the candle. Perhaps they were covered in soot. In this case, they must be cleaned with sandpaper or a wire brush. If this does not help, then it is worth trying to replace the candle.

It happens that the candle is in order, but there is still no spark. Here you need to check the armored wires and even the ignition coil. By the way, the capacitor on the ignition coil may fail. It is advisable to have a spare with you (it costs a penny).

No spark on center wire. You can check it like this: the central wire is disconnected from the cover of the distributor, the tip is unscrewed. After that, you need to turn the key and keep the end of the wire near the metal. Should be a good spark.
Ignition switch problem. It happens that in the castle itself some kind of terminal falls off. Especially on older cars. Naturally, you need to know where to put it again. In addition, fuses may blow. Therefore, it is always worth having a set of spares in the car. It is inexpensive, does not take up space, and a blown fuse can be not only the reason that, for example, turns do not work. Worse, when for this reason the internal combustion engine does not start.

Other possible faults

Problems with the retractor (traction) starter relay. The most common problem here is burnt nickels (you can only see when the device is disassembled).
In addition, contacts can be soldered from them. In this case, when the ignition key is turned, only a quiet click of the starter relay will be heard, and the retractor will be silent. If it is working, it will make a clear metallic click. On the road, it is unlikely to be able to fix it. Although the repair is inexpensive and relatively uncomplicated.

The starter has failed. If, when the car engine starts, when the key is turned, a click is clearly heard, but the start does not occur, and the battery wires heat up or even smoke comes from them, then the starter needs to be changed.
Ignition set incorrectly. This happens after an engine overhaul. In this case, you should contact a specialist.

The distributor is flooded with water or just wet. This happens, for example, when driving through large, deep puddles. In this case, the spark will simply go away (pierce) and not get to the candles. The solution is simple: wipe the distributor and let it dry.
The engine may not start because it is jammed. Signs and causes of a wedge is a vast topic that will be difficult to cover within the framework of this article. In addition, for various reasons, piston rings, etc., may be completely buried.

Results

So, as follows from all that is written above, answering the question of why the engine does not start is not so simple. All reasons can be divided into three main groups:
-problems with fuel supply;
-problems with the electrician;
-problems with mechanics (that is, with the engine itself).

It is recommended not to forget to regularly carry out scheduled maintenance additionally check the engine and attachments before a long trip, charge the battery in a timely manner and fill the gas tank with only high-quality fuel.

Hyundai Solaris- a Korean car with a "Russian registration" that is gaining more and more popularity among motorists. The first operating experience of the Hyundai Solaris revealed some problems: noisy salon, "stupid" automatic transmission, poor handling, inability to adapt to climatic conditions. Although every car has its own weak spots and illness. The perfect car does not exist. It's just that there are significant shortcomings and not significant ones. Solaris refers to cars that have precisely non-essential illnesses, which after 2012 became even smaller, so to speak, outgrew "childhood illnesses".

Chassis

  • Very soft suspension (sags under weight) and the body sways strongly on every small bump. The car goes off course on bumps - at speeds above 100 km. Also fast.
  • Already cut 3-4 thousand kilometers, the rake begins to tap heavily. The metal sleeve breaks, appears. The problem disappeared after revision in April 2012.
  • Weak wheel bearings. The front one can fail already at 15 thousand mileage, and the front one a little over 30 thousand km.

Body

  • Weak paintwork: on the chips you can see how thin it is, so it is very easily scratched.
  • The metal of the body is very thin, easily formed from the impact of stones.
  • The windshield bursts when heated in severe frost.
  • The windshield washer sprayers begin to spray weakly during operation.
  • Poor fasteners (often break with little effort).

Engine

  • Bad from -17C °, the problem was solved by flashing the ECU. The battery capacity and starting currents are not enough to start at 30 ° C frost.
  • The impeller at the radiator cooling fan flies off (the fixing bolt flies off).

Please note that all the above Solaris sores were until 2012, which the manufacturer gradually eliminated, and by 2016 have already been resolved!

About where Hyundai cars came from, we already wrote somehow. But still, we will partially repeat - suddenly one of our readers has spent the last 6 years in a lethargic dream and now does not know what Solaris is.

There was a time when thousands of inexpensive, but very worthy cars ran out onto the streets of the cities of our country en masse. At first, they were looked at suspiciously: the “Koreans” were still little known, so they were cautiously waiting for these Accents to fall apart.

But time passed, completely different cars fell apart, and the Accents still continued to drive on the roads. Our car enthusiasts began to look at the Korean auto industry a little more optimistically, and the fact that the main share of Russian Accents was assembled in Taganrog allowed us to hope that a decent car could be assembled in Russia.

In a word, the road for Hyundai products was open to us. But the Koreans did not go the easy way: they offered us the third-generation Accent under the name Verna, but this car was not just not to our taste, but rather not affordable. So everyone would have forgotten about good new Korean cars, but the plant in Taganrog successfully riveted Accents until 2012, and back in September 2010, a new product of the company was shown at the St. Petersburg Hyundai plant, which became known to us under the name Solaris. Mass production began in 2011.

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Why Solaris? It's no secret that in many other countries it is known as the fourth generation Accent.

It's all about marketing and psychology. We are used to calling cars by their proper names, so the Accent of the second generation will always remain for us. In some other countries, Solaris is called Verna, but we called it the Accent of the third generation, whose sales failed. Sell new car under the "failed" name would be just stupid. For all these reasons, a competition was announced, as a result of which new model, which got on the conveyor of a plant in the northern capital, received the name Solaris (this word can be translated as “sun” or “sunny” - Petersburgers appreciated the joke).

Since the beginning of the release, the model has undergone some changes. In 2013, the number of available options was expanded, and in 2014 a full restyling was carried out.

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Our today's car is just restyled, produced in 2014, with a 1.6-liter engine and a six-speed automatic transmission. Its mileage is 39 thousand kilometers, which for this reliable car very little. Therefore, for help in the form additional information we turned to ROLF Lakhta Hyundai, where the service station specialist Alexey Gromov very generously shared with us the intricacies of servicing this car.

Engine

Hyundai does not pamper its customers with a wide range of available engines. For Solaris, there are only two options: Gamma series engines with a volume of 1.4 or 1.6 liters (107 and 123 hp, respectively). Let's go over the cost of basic maintenance operations and see how tolerant Solaris is about the frugal hands of the economical owner.


As usual, replace engine oil you can on your own. The dealer fills in the recommended Shell Helix 5W40 oil. Replacement will require 3.3 liters, the cost of oil in the official service is 750 rubles per liter. Of course, you can fill in another oil with the same characteristics, the main thing is not to fall for a fake. Original oil filter it costs 450 rubles, and it hardly makes sense to look for an analogue - the quality can be questionable, and you won’t be able to win much on the difference in price.

It is impossible to get the filter from above, so you have to somehow get under the car. If there is neither the opportunity nor the desire to mess around with a replacement, then the service asks only 500-600 rubles for this. But if we decide to carry out maintenance on our own, then while the oil is draining, we will change the air filter.


The cost of the original filter ranges from 600 to 800 rubles. Replacing it is a matter of a couple of minutes: I flipped the latches, pulled out the old one, inserted a new one - that's it, you're done! So why does this operation cost as much as 430 rubles in the service? And all because it is wrong to do so. I think you need to blow out all the air ducts. Pay attention to the inside of the filter housing cover. A branch pipe is visible in it - the entire path from the body to the cylinders must be blown through. But in no case do not blow, but rather, “suck out” all the dirt and dust from there. it important procedure which everyone forgets.


The next job available to everyone is replacing candles. To do this, you will have to unscrew the four bolts and remove the plastic cover, under which you can find the ignition coils - four pieces, one for each of the candles. Further, I think, there is nothing to explain: we remove the coils, change the candles (1,700 rubles for a set of NGK). What do we pay attention to here?

It happens that low-quality fuel gets into the tank of the car. This can lead to disruptions in the operation of the candle, after which the ignition coil sometimes “dies”. Surprisingly, the service station master says that on a warranty machine, coils and even candles will be changed for free, even if the cause of their failure was bad gasoline. This is not often, but it happens, so do not think that if you have an inexpensive Korean car, then you can fill it with any combustible rubbish: you should still approach the choice of a gas station responsibly.

Solaris is the very case when. But this was not always the case: in 2013, a wave of guaranteed chain replacements swept through the country. Since then, there has been a lull, and the motors work out the warranty 180 thousand mileage laid down for them without problems. Of course, this does not mean that the chain can not be changed at all. On long runs, it’s still worth listening to it, and if necessary, bring 37 thousand rubles to the service and leave here with a new timing chain.

By the way, about the limit mileage. All sorts of people have already dubbed Solaris a “disposable aluminum pan”, which falls apart exactly at 180,001 kilometers. Let's not argue: aluminum engines do not have piston repair sizes, and with high mileage they are really expensive. But there are two more points. Firstly, for "Internet experts" this may be a surprising discovery, but aluminum engines did not appear yesterday - they have been used by Toyota for more than 15 years (series of engines ZZ, NZ, AZ, and so on). Yes, yes, imagine, since the beginning of the “zero” there are no “perpetual” cast-iron engines in most Toyotas, including right-hand drive ones, no longer.

Secondly, ROLF masters service post-warranty Solaris with high mileage - there are cars that have overcome the 300,000th and even 400,000th milestone without capital. It is clear that this is rather a pleasant exception to the rule, and the result is achievable with a calm ride and attentive service. But the hysteria about "disposability", you see, is somewhat unfounded.

An unpretentious car, oddly enough, it is with its reliability that it can spoil itself. If earlier you had to constantly check the level of oil consumed by the engine, top up the coolant leaving no one knows where, or monitor the level brake fluid, then Solaris allows you to relax. The oil dipstick is taken out less and less, the level of other fluids is not checked at all. Especially the ones that don't show up.


In our case, we are talking about antifreeze. Expansion tank hidden so that you can find it only by setting this goal, it is not before your eyes: it sits in ambush in front of the engine. It is a little more difficult to see the level of antifreeze and the corresponding marks on the tank than reverse side The moon, so the master shows a simple but reliable way: remove the cover with the pipe and see which part of it is wet from the coolant. If it is less than a third immersed in antifreeze, then the coolant level is insufficient.


In general, the Solaris cooling system lacks attention quite often, so if you don’t want to service the car in an official service (although it’s not that expensive), then look at it more often. And at least with a run of 90 thousand kilometers, rinse it thoroughly. Carefully inspect the radiator - although it is behind the air conditioner evaporator, it is quite possible to damage it with pebbles from the road. Actually, the air conditioner radiator also needs attention, but many Solaris owners are so relaxed people that they tense up only if they get hot, and if the engine suffers from the same, they don’t see it until the last.

The rest of the Solaris motors are absolutely reliable. Moreover, the resource does not depend on the volume - both 1.4- and 1.6-liter units do not raise questions about their work and durability.

Chassis

Everyone remembers how Solaris made its unsuccessful debut with a rear beam of increased “jumping”, which caused problems with handling, especially at high speeds. But a lot of time has passed since then, and Korean manufacturers have always been very attentive to quality and claims from consumers. Now the owner of Solaris does not have to complain - chassis does its job well and does not fall apart on our roads.

Of course, you have to change the stabilizer struts - they have long become consumables. But then again, most of the cars that need to be replaced were produced before 2014, younger Solaris do not yet suffer from stabilizer strut disease. But just in case, we inform you: the cost of the part is 800 rubles, the replacement is 2-2.5 thousand.

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The next detail that needs attention is not related to the chassis, but let's remember it while the car is on the lift: steering rack the first Solaris also did not differ in reliability. Then the manufacturer even held a revocable campaign, changing the cardan shaft. There is no reason for the owners of new Solaris to worry, today this childhood disease has been cured.

By a run of about a hundred thousand, the replacement of silent blocks of the front levers is usually required. They are located horizontally here, the cost of the part is 4,300 rubles, the work will cost 1,000 rubles. I think that investing these amounts every 100 thousand kilometers should not affect the love for the car.

Transmission and brakes

Our car has a Hyundai automatic six-speed transmission - the same as on the i30. Following a disastrous trend, the Koreans believe that the fluid in the box can not be changed for the entire service life, that is, for 180 thousand kilometers. The machine can really reach this milestone without replacement, but the cost of a major overhaul will unpleasantly surprise you. If you plan to throw the car in the trash at the end of the warranty, then you can follow the manufacturer's recommendations (as, alas, most owners do). But if there is a desire to keep the native automatic transmission up to 300-400 thousand mileage, then the oil in it changes every 60 thousand.


And if you are looking for a used car, ask the previous owner about changing the oil in the "machine". If he turned out to be overly trusting of the manufacturer, then special attention will need to be paid to checking the automatic transmission.

A liter of liquid will cost 2,500 rubles. Since it is changed by the displacement method, for complete replacement it will take eight liters, they will ask for 4,300 rubles for work. Yes, an automatic machine is a convenient thing, but it will cost more than mechanics to operate.

All brake mechanisms Solaris disk. Replacing pads in the service will cost 1,500, along with discs - 2,500 rubles. The cost of the original pads is 3,200 for the front and 4,600 for the rear pads. Can I change them myself? Yes. There is only one subtlety.


If the front brake mechanisms do not require special attention, then the same problem very often occurs with the rear ones - the calipers turn sour. The pads no longer fit the entire surface, wear appears on the discs almost immediately. If you want to extend their service life, then when replacing rear pads it is necessary to lubricate the guides well, and even during operation it is sometimes useful to look at the rear discs: if the guide wedges, then in the footsteps brake pads On disks it will be noticeable immediately. By the way, when replacing it yourself, you should not try to press in the pistons of the rear calipers - they must be screwed in. The front pads are easy to change, without any dancing with a tambourine and screwing in the pistons.

Body and interior

Does it make sense to talk about how Solaris drives? Probably not. Among your friends, there will definitely be the owner of such a car - you can ask him. Solaris drives, and that's enough. Moreover, you can safely go on overtaking with a 1.4-liter engine. well, we'll see what happens to the body.

You should not try to ram snowdrifts in winter: the front bumper in the PTF area is rather weak, it is easy to get a crack. On used cars, keep an eye on the condition of the top edge around windshield: there is no galvanization on the roof, and chips appear often, especially if you drive a lot on the highway.


Now the Solaris are at most five years old, so there are no leaky cars yet, and they are unlikely to be. Flowering chips on actively exploited variants, however, are found - on the frame of the windshield and on the hood, less often - along the bottom of the body.

Modern automotive trends are still reflected in the design of this "Korean", and in a bad way. It's about replacing headlight bulbs.

If your arms are flexible enough, long enough and with three elbows, then you can replace the headlight bulbs. But there is a lot of fuss with the dimensions, and only on the left (from the driver's side). On the right, the lamp can be replaced if you climb under the car, but on the left you can’t do without removing the bumper - access to the lamp is blocked by the receiver housing.

For help in preparing the material, we express our gratitude to the ROLF Lakhta Hyundai company and personally to the service station specialist Alexei Gromov (St. Petersburg, Savushkina street, 103, lit. B)

The popularity of Hyundai Solaris is due to the perfect combination of quality, specifications, the democratic cost of the car, which makes it in demand both among young people and among the older generation. Compared to its competitors, the maintenance costs of the machine are not so significant, and the comfort of movement is excellent. appearance not comparable to other vehicles. Nevertheless, there are certain malfunctions of the Hyundai Solaris, which sooner or later manifest themselves and are capable of giving their owner a sudden unpleasant surprise.

The need for timely detection of faults

There are no cars that never break down, it’s just that each brand and model has its own flaws, knowing which, you can minimize their negative consequences. Of course, the frequency of occurrence and severity of malfunctions is influenced by driving style, car care vehicle, its timely maintenance and accurate operation. Also important is the need to listen to the operation of the engine, which reports any violations by extraneous noise or malfunctions. It is important to understand that detecting a small problem at an early stage will avoid major costly repairs in the future.

Common breakdowns and their causes

The main reason for the appearance of various kinds of negative consequences is the rather poor handling of the Hyundai Solaris, due to which it is necessary to regularly undergo high-quality maintenance. As a result, the car is poorly controlled at a speed of 80 km / h, which is especially dangerous for novice drivers, whose mistakes can lead to an accident, long-term treatment, and large financial losses associated with it and restoring the car. Given this fact, it would be appropriate to conduct complex repair suspension with replacement shock absorbers and springs.

This is due to the fact that the installation of stiffer shock-absorbing systems contributes to better handling, but this will have to sacrifice a comfortable ride on a dirt road. It is important to periodically inspect the mountings of the front stabilizer, the malfunction of which entails the appearance of car wobbling at high speeds.

Less significant, but still unpleasant problems that car owners may face are:

  • Rapid wear of bearings, which is facilitated by old grease and constant exposure to dirt and dust.
  • Engine system breakdowns due to poor quality gasoline. As a result, you should not be surprised that the car cannot be started on the first try, that it runs unevenly while driving, or that the car constantly stalls when stopped.
  • Minor electrical problems in the form of spontaneous operation of the main beam when turning on the right turn, problems with the fuel pump.
  • The need for periodic tightening of the bumper mounting bolts, which are characterized by constant unwinding.

  • Occasionally, annoying troubles arise associated with the onset of frost, which are the reluctance of the engine to start, as well as the freezing of the alarm lock.

Timely diagnosis with the subsequent decoding of errors will avoid the need for repairs and a long parting with your pet. In order to minimize the possibility of malfunctions, it will not be superfluous to replace some parts of the car, increase ground clearance and fixing the problem of poor lighting, which will make driving this beautiful car even more enjoyable.