So, you found a defect or the deadline has come scheduled repairs. Replacement is carried out step by step only with a cold engine:
- Disconnect the battery of your Lada Grant.
- Remove the crankshaft position sensor. Place the sensor in a clean area, such as a shelf free of steel filings or oil.
- Place the piston of the first cylinder at top dead center.
- crank crankshaft until the mark on its pulley matches the protrusion on the drive cover.
- Remove the plug from the viewing window (located on the clutch housing) and check the position of the shaft. If you did everything correctly, then a mark will appear in the window and will be opposite the slot. Stop the flywheel with a screwdriver (it must be placed between its teeth).
- Unscrew the alternator drive pulley, remove it from the axle and remove the washer.
- Remove the timing cover.
- Loosen the tension roller (it should turn).
- Remove belt from all pulleys and pull out.
- If you need, in addition to installing the timing belt, remove the tension roller and replace it with a new one, then unscrew the fastening bolt, and then remove the roller right along with it.
- Before installing a new roller, check if a replacement is really needed. To do this, grab the metal middle of this mechanism and turn the plastic part. In a serviceable component, it moves smoothly, without jamming.
- Inspect the pump and start reassembling the timing mechanism. Install the roller in the upper hole on the cylinder block, but do not completely tighten the bolt that secures this part of the drive.
- Put on the belt so that it runs correctly over all the pulleys and rollers. In order for the belt to lie correctly, after laying it on the crankshaft pulley (it must first be installed in its place), tighten both parts of the part. Try to distribute the load evenly.
- The far part of the timing belt should lie on the pump pulley and go behind the tension roller (at this stage, check the diagram), and the near one should gently lie on the toothed part of the camshaft.
- Turn the camshaft pulley slightly (in the direction of less travel) so that the teeth of the belt line up with the notches on it. To turn the tension roller counterclockwise, use the special wrench.
After the replacement has been made, check the timing belt tension. Excessive voltage in it on the Lada Granta is fraught with failure of the cooling system pump. Also, with excessive tension, the belt can fail very quickly.
A loose belt can lead to timing failure. Turn the crankshaft to the right so that the alignment marks match. After that, reassemble the alternator pulley. Remember that when the belt is removed on a Lada car of the Grant model, it is strictly forbidden to turn the shafts. The adjustment is only made when the replacement has already been carried out.
The popular VAZ 21116 (11186) engine is also installed on the Lada Grant. This motor is not enough stars from the sky, but it is pleasant in that you can safely carry out its maintenance and repair with your own hands in garage conditions. He has several problems, however, they are solved by careful and timely care. Replacing the timing belt on an 8-valve Grant with your own hands will not cause any problems if you change the belt according to technology, not forgetting to choose a high-quality belt.
There are quite a few tales about what will happen if the belt breaks timing belt while the engine is running. Unfortunately, regarding the VAZ 21116 engine, most of them are not far from the truth. For this engine, a broken camshaft drive belt is more than critical. The meeting of pistons with valves, as a rule, ends not too rosy: bent valves, broken connecting rods, punched cylinder blocks and twisted pistons - all this can really happen if you do not replace the timing belt on time.
Bent valves in the block head
In order for the engine to serve for a long time and reliably, it is simply enough inspect every 10-15 thousand mileage drive belt camshaft and when alarming symptoms are detected, do not be lazy and change it right there. Signs that the strap is asking for retirement are clear even to the teapot:
- On the surface of the belt, cracks, cuts, notches, and other mechanical damage are clearly visible.
- The teeth may be damaged or even cut off.
- There are marks on the belt operating fluids- oils, gasoline, antifreeze, brake fluid. But before changing the belt, you need to find and eliminate the cause of fluid leakage.
- Layering of rubber material.
- Belt stretch.
Therefore, replacing the belt in normal conditions, when all other units and systems work decently and do not cause complaints, it is carried out every 40-50 thousand km, and checking the condition of the belt at least every 10-15 thousand km. In this case, the VAZ 21116 engine will roll back its resource to 180-200 thousand before overhaul without problems.
The same applies to engines with an 8-valve VAZ 11186 head, which are absolutely identical to the VAZ 21116, but have a Federal Mogul cylinder-piston group.
Which belt is better to buy for Grant and for which engine
From the factory, all VAZ engines are fitted with company belts Gates. Replacement kit on 8-valve heads bears a part number K015670XS. We dwelled in some detail on the topic of choosing the best timing belts for VAZ engines and, therefore, there is not much point in repeating. There you can also find out how to distinguish a fake from a good quality timing belt replacement kit, as well as all the necessary articles for searching on local sites selling VAZ spare parts.
The Italian-Chinese brand Trialli with the article GD 790 received good reviews from the owners More good belts. Which one fits the 8-valve Grant
As for our Grants, the difficulty in choosing belts for an eight-valve engine is that an ancient but reliable eight-engine was installed on old cars and on cars in the Norma configuration VAZ 11183, an analogue of the VAZ 21083. This engine is good because the valves in it do not bend when the belt breaks. For him you need to buy belt from catalog number 2108-1006040-10 , and tension roller 2108-1006120.
New Gates belt For the other two Grants engines with 8-valve block cooking (these are engines VAZ 11186 and VAZ 21116) we buy the following replacement parts:
- camshaft drive belt 21116-1006040 ;
- tension roller 21116-1006226 ;
- if you wish, you can buy a special key for the convenience of adjusting the belt tension 67.7812.9573-01 .
Belt from Continental Of course, for this motor there are analogues from other manufacturers and there are a lot of them. Most Popular:
- GATES - 5670XS, like the original, but in the original box;
- Trialli GD 790, Italian brand, Chinese assembly;
- CONTITECH - CT1164, an excellent belt from Continental, if not a fake;
- QUARTZ with catalog number QZ-5670XS, good quality German belts;
- INA 530053610, one of the highest quality and most expensive kits;
- DAYCO KTB944, a good Italian kit;
- Production kit BOSCH 1987 948 286 .
At the same time, it is important that the belt corresponds to the geometric parameters - belt length 1305 mm, number of teeth 113, belt width 17 mm.
We change the timing belt on the Grant with our own hands
When we check the condition of the belt or are about to change it, it is necessary that the engine cools down after the trip. The optimum temperature for replacement is about 20 degrees. According to AvtoVAZ, a replacement is critically needed at the 75th thousand run, but, according to drivers, they have to be changed more often. To replace, we need a standard set of tools and a special wrench for tightening the roller.
If all this is there, let's get to work.
The release of the domestic modification of the Lada Grant has been carried out for several years. The car has gained considerable confidence, due to its acceptable quality and level of performance, as well as the presence of several different versions of the configuration.
Today we will figure out when to change the timing belt, as well as which timing belt is better.
A few general points about the belt
The timing in any engine serves to ensure the timeliness of the intake of the prepared mixture and the release of exhaust gases. The composition of this node implies the presence of such elements:
- distribution and crankshafts;
- valves themselves with seals, springs, guide bushings and other parts.
Which timing belt is best? A belt mechanism is positioned apart in this mechanism, acting as a connecting link between the distribution (or two) and crankshafts. It is the belt drive that is able to provide synchronization in the functioning of the elements included in the timing kit.
Finding this important element on the motor will not be a big effort. To do this, you only need to open the hood of the Lada Grant and you will see a closed with a special casing in front of you. This protection prevents contamination and the ingress of foreign objects and dirt.
The design of the belt mechanism includes a rubber base and a working inner surface made in the form of teeth with a certain pitch.
What are the factory regulations of AvtoVAZ in terms of replacement?
Cars of the Lada Granta model line are equipped with various versions of the power unit. Some of them are not without problems in the event of an unpleasant break in the belt drive. This is caused by the collision of the pistons with the valves, as a result of which the latter are bent, and the motor needs to be repaired.
The possibility of bending (if a break occurs) is not available on the version of the motor "11183-50", which is equipped with a standard package.
Another not unimportant question: when to change the timing belt? To eliminate this unpleasant situation, the manufacturer deliberately regulated the periodic period for the mandatory replacement of the specified “consumable”. The answer to the question of how much to change the timing belt from the manufacturer's company is after 15 thousand kilometers. This requirement applies to both 8-valve motors and 16-valve modifications.
Even despite the equipping of the modification "21116" with a motor with an imported head, if the belt breaks, a similar sad fate awaits it.
The manufacturer does not recommend independent implementation of the procedure for both checking the condition of the belt and replacing it. And therefore, when it is time to change the timing belt, you should contact the service center. If it is revealed that the operation was performed by hand, there is a high probability that the owner will be deprived of the opportunity warranty service. For self replacement The manufacturer grants permission regarding:
- cabin filter;
- a similar element for the intake system.
However, on their own, many car owners still carry out the replacement, but not all newly minted drivers know how much to change the timing belt, and also which timing belt is better than the rest.
Many Lada Grant owners, especially those equipped with 16-valve versions power units, recommend not to wait for the coveted mark of 60 thousand km. This is due to the possibility of using low-quality components that can provoke wear of the replaced elements already after a run of 20 thousand km.
This fact encourages many "Grantavodov" to resort to the use of products with good quality, and many of them, when asked which timing belt is better, answer that it is from the manufacturer Gates. But we note that there are fake spare parts of this brand, and therefore, it is recommended to stop buying items only from trusted suppliers.
If you set out to replace the component yourself, then you should not neglect some of the recommendations below. In particular, do not forget to observe the interval after which to change the timing belt.
After hanging the belt, it must be properly tensioned. This is done through the use of a specialized key. Some "figures" will object, they say, you can do without it. However, it is very problematic to dare to guarantee a qualitative result here.
The force applied to the belt branch (when it is turned through a 90-degree angle) located between two shafts (well-known: distribution and crankshafts) should not exceed 20 Nm, but should not reach less than 15 Nm either. If there is no "hit" in the indicated parameter interval, then this indicates an incorrect belt tension. Consequence one - new adjustment!
What are the signs of a worn belt?
The indicated factors will allow you to accurately determine the moment of the beginning of the appearance of damage on the Lada Grant belt, which will prevent an unexpected onset of its failure (break). When to change the timing belt, how to understand that it is worn out?
- Among the primary signs there is a significant degree of wear of the material. This fact will easily provoke slipping or breakage of the "consumable" with an insignificant load on the motor or in conditions of high atmospheric humidity.
- The appearance of wear is often provoked by a violation of the correct position of the roller in relation to the pulley. This can confirm the increased heating of the bearing and the fabric remnants of worn cords sticking out to the sides used to reinforce the rubber base of the belt.
- The next sign will be the presence of cracks and delaminations. The greater the number of these defects, the higher the chance of an early belt break.
- If excessive hardness appears at the back surface, then it can be given out by the presence of gloss. This factor, associated with the loss of elasticity, indicates the loss of sufficient contact between the belt and the pulleys.
- During operation, it is possible to lengthen the belt surface, which can cause it to jump on the teeth of the shaft pulley. Replacing the belt in this case is unambiguous.
- The failure of the roller, as a direct evidence of the incorrect location of the belt in relation to its working plane.
What are the expected consequences of the break?
As agreed, there are no problems with the Lada Grant engine in the 8-valve version; if the belt drive breaks, it does not occur only in the version of the 11183-50 unit. The rest of the engines are at risk of failing in the indicated unpleasant incident.
In view of this, a dispute unfolded among Grantavods about the advantages of LADA Granta engines with 16 and 8 valves, and which unit has more of them. Your point of view will also be very interesting.
When the belt drive breaks, the camshaft stops in a position corresponding directly to the moment of failure. In contrast, the crankshaft is subject to continued rotation. This causes the pistons to hit those valves that were in the open position at a given moment. Further, the latter are bent, but sometimes a breakdown of the piston bottom occurs. In a popular way, the “fist of friendship”!
It is based on this fact that experts tend to recommend changing the timing kit previously declared by the manufacturer for the period required for this action.
conclusions
Now you know how much to change the timing belt. Definitely a break belt LADA Granta is a source of unprecedented problems. This circumstance does not mean that it is necessary to be inactive. The following are some recommendations whose goal is to minimize the indicated risk.
1. Carefully treat the procedure for checking the belt for wear. This action is recommended to be carried out after 10-15 thousand km.
2. Do not neglect to check the condition of the seals. The defect manifests itself in the form of characteristic spots under the bottom of the car.
3. The problem may be indicated by the flashing of the lamp that registers the oil pressure in the LADA Granta engine. If this fact manifests itself, we urgently turn off the engine and take measures to find the source of the breakdown.
4. Use only original spare parts, although no one has canceled the procedure for monitoring their condition.
Timing replacement Lada Granta 8 valves required every 75 thousand kilometers. If you ignore the scheduled replacement of the belt, tension roller and sometimes a pump (coolant pump), then you can run into a serious engine repair Lada Granta. After all, a broken timing belt almost always leads to damage to valves, valve seats and even pistons. Therefore, the timing drive must be treated very carefully. Once every 15 thousand, it is imperative to inspect the belt for breaks, cracks, delamination or oiling.
Detailed diagram of the timing drive Lada Granta next.
- 1 - a gear pulley of a cranked shaft
- 2 - toothed pulley of the coolant pump
- 3 - tension roller
- 4 - rear protective cover
- 5 - camshaft pulley
- 6 - timing belt
- A - tide on the rear protective cover
- B - mark on the camshaft pulley
- C - mark on the oil pump cover
- D - mark on the crankshaft pulley.
To replace the timing belt, we should dismantle the alternator drive belt or accessory drive belt for Grant with air conditioning. With a “5” hexagon, unscrew the four screws securing the front top cover timing drive and remove the plastic casing.
To avoid damage to the crankshaft position sensor, it must also be removed. With the ignition off, depress the clamp of the wiring harness block and disconnect the block from the sensor connector. Using the “10” head, unscrew the sensor mounting bolt.
We take out the sensor from the tide hole of the oil pump cover and set it aside in a place where there are no steel filings that could subsequently disrupt the operation of the sensor.
Before dismantling the belt, it is necessary to check the valve timing of the engine - set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC (top dead center) position of the compression stroke. With the “17” head, we turn the crankshaft clockwise for the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley until mark 1 on the camshaft pulley aligns with the tide 2 on the back cover of the timing drive.
To make sure that the crankshaft is in the correct position, we take out the rubber plug of the viewing window at the top of the clutch housing. Risk 2 on the flywheel should be located opposite the slot 1 of the scale, which is visible in the window of the clutch housing cover.
Before unscrewing the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley, we ask an assistant to fix the crankshaft from turning by inserting a screwdriver through the window in the clutch housing between the teeth of the flywheel.
Using the “17” head, unscrew the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley, remove the pulley and washer.
With a “5” hexagon, we unscrew the three screws securing the front lower timing cover. We remove the cover.
Using a 15 spanner wrench, we loosen the tightening bolt of the tension roller.
In this case, the tension roller will turn and the belt tension will loosen. Remove the timing belt from the crankshaft pulleys and camshaft. Take the belt out of engine compartment Grants.
Attention! After removing the timing belt, the crankshaft and camshaft must not be rotated to avoid sticking the pistons into the valves. Dimensions toothed belt timing drive Lada Granta with an 8-valve engine - width 17 mm, number of teeth 113.
To remove the timing belt tensioner pulley, unscrew its fastening bolt and remove the tensioner pulley together with the bolt.
We rotate the plastic clip of the roller, holding it by the eccentric. The roller should rotate silently, evenly and without jamming. Otherwise, the roller must be replaced.
At the same time, you can check the health of the coolant pump by twisting and shaking it by the pulley. We install the tension roller in place, finally not tightening the bolt of its fastening. For different modifications of the engine, two threaded holes are made in the cylinder head for the tension roller fastening bolt. We screw the roller mounting bolt into the upper hole of the cylinder head. In the photo below, the hole is marked with a red arrow.
Install Grant's timing belt in reverse order. Before installing the belt, make sure to align installation marks crankshaft and camshaft. We put the belt on the crankshaft toothed pulley, then pulling both branches of the belt, put the back branch on the coolant pump pulley and wind it behind the tension roller, and put the front one on the camshaft pulley.
If necessary, we turn the camshaft pulley in the direction of the smallest stroke until the belt teeth coincide with the pulley cavities. To tension the belt, turn the tension roller counterclockwise. To do this, insert the rods (diameter 4 mm, distance between the rods 18 mm) of a special key into the grooves of the outer disk of the roller (shown on the removed roller for clarity).
Such a key was used to adjust the belt tension in all front-wheel drive VAZs; you can buy it at any auto parts store.
Also, to adjust the tension of the timing belt Lada Granta, you can use pliers to remove the retaining rings. We tighten the belt by turning the belt tension roller counterclockwise until the cutout of the outer disk of the roller coincides with the rectangular protrusion of its inner sleeve, and tighten the roller fastening bolt to a torque of 34–41 Nm.
Excessive belt tension reduces belt life as well as the life of the coolant pump bearings and idler pulley. Insufficient belt tension also leads to premature exit out of order and can cause a violation of the valve timing. Turn the crankshaft two turns clockwise. We check the belt tension and the coincidence of the alignment marks of the crankshaft and camshaft. At removed pulley generator drive, it is convenient to control the correct position of the crankshaft by aligning mark 1 on the crankshaft toothed pulley with rib 2 of the oil pump cover. Photo for clarity below.
If you are not confident in your abilities, then you can entrust the work of replacing the belt with a Lada Grant to a car service. For an engine with an 8-valve timing mechanism, this is cheaper than for a version with a 16-valve engine.
Starting with the model VAZ-2108, Volzhsky car factory switched to using a timing belt drive, and continues to use it on modern models, including the Lada Grant.
This type of drive has a number of advantages over a chain drive, including:
- no need for lubrication, which makes it possible to move the timing drive to the outside of the motor;
- noiseless operation and easier replacement process.
But the belt also runs much less than the chain. Therefore, the basis for long-term and trouble-free operation power plant is a timely check of the condition of the belt and its replacement.
Replacement frequency
The manufacturer's technical documentation indicates that the timing belt on the Lada Grant must be replaced every 60 thousand kilometers.
But here it is worth noting that this is a boundary value and it is better to replace it before reaching such a mileage, approximately 50 thousand km, but there are times when the drive needs to be replaced by 40 or even 30 thousand km, it all depends on the quality of the belt and its working conditions.
In any case, it is better to periodically check the condition of the drive (recommended every 15 thousand km) and, if signs of wear are found, immediately replace it.
If this is not done, then it may break, which is fraught with serious consequences - the engine pistons will collide with open valves, leading to their damage and subsequent costly repairs.
Design features of the drive of different engines
To understand how service work is performed with a timing drive, let's first consider its design.
So, the drive of the gas distribution mechanism is carried out from the crankshaft. At the same time, the gas distribution phases in the engine cylinders have 4 cycles and they are performed in two complete revolutions of the crankshaft.
But 2 of these cycles occur with closed valves, so the camshaft must provide only one closing and opening of the valves for all 4 cycles.
Therefore, for two revolutions of the crankshaft, only one revolution of the camshaft is carried out. Moreover, this is achieved quite simply - due to the different diameters of the drive toothed pulleys.
The belt has a toothed working surface, which prevents it from slipping on the pulleys. In addition to transmitting force from the crankshaft, the belt performs another function - it drives the cooling system pump.
In this case, the drive must be constantly tensioned to prevent jumping of the teeth on the pulleys, therefore, a tension roller is included in its design.
This is the entire drive design, that is, it includes only two toothed pulleys (crankshaft and camshaft), a pump gear, a tension roller and the belt itself.
All this is located on the side of the engine, and not inside. But in order to prevent the ingress of dirt and technical liquids that can harm the belt, all elements are covered with protective shields.
But this describes the design of a gas distribution mechanism for 8 valves, for the drive of which only one camshaft is used.
But some Lada Grant models are equipped with engines with a 16-valve distribution mechanism and two camshafts. But because of this, the design of the drive does not change much.
Unlike the 8-valve, there is not one, but a camshaft and, accordingly, two toothed pulleys, and another roller has been added to the design - a bypass, it is also a support. This is where all the differences ended.
Checking the condition and tension
As already noted, so that a broken belt does not lead to serious problems, periodically it is necessary to check its condition and tension.
Checking the condition of the belt is quite simple and you can do it yourself.
To do this, it is necessary to unscrew and remove the protective covers of the drive, jack up the front right wheel, engage in overdrive and spin the wheel.
The included gear will provide rotation of the crankshaft and timing drive through the gearbox.
When rotating, carefully inspect the belt. If any defects or signs of wear are noticed on it - torn teeth, rubber peeling from the threads, cracks, significant abrasions, then the belt must be changed regardless of the mileage.
Additionally, when checking the condition of the drive, its tension should also be assessed.
Although a roller with automatic tension is used on Grant, it is impossible to rely on the fact that it works normally and it is better to check the tension, all the more it is very simple to perform.
The belt must be taken with two fingers in the middle of the section opposite the tension roller, that is, on the span between the shaft pulleys and rotated clockwise.
At the same time, even if it is impossible to twist it at an angle of more than 90 degrees, even with a significant effort, then the belt is tensioned normally. If it twists at a larger angle, then it is necessary to adjust its tension.
What you need to replace the belt
So, to perform the work, you will need such a tool, devices:
- A set of open-end and box wrenches of the most common sizes;
- A set of hexagons;
- Powerful screwdriver or mounting spatula, pry bar;
- A special wrench for tensioning the tension roller, or at least round-nose pliers for removing the circlips;
- Marker;
- Rags.
Naturally, you will need a new belt of the appropriate size, as well as a new tensioner, since it must be replaced along with the belt. Having prepared all this, you can proceed to disassembly.
Disassembly
The sequence of work is as follows:
Disassembly features of a 16-valve engine
As for the 16-valve engine, the disassembly in sequence is completely identical to that described, with the exception of one point - setting marks. Since this engine uses two camshafts, the marks must be aligned on both, and do not forget about the marks on the flywheel.
Also, during disassembly, in addition to the tension roller, you will also have to dismantle the bypass roller, since it is also subject to replacement.
After removing the belt, you should also check the play of the bearings on the pump. If it is significant, then it is better to replace it immediately. Otherwise, it may soon fail after replacing the belt and the need to re-disassemble the drive, since the pump changes only after the drive is dismantled.
Note that after removing the belt, it is important to ensure that you do not accidentally turn one of the shafts while installing a new one.
Assembly, verification
The drive is assembled in the reverse order, but with certain nuances. First, we put the tension roller in place and bait the bolt of its fastening, but do not tighten it.
In a 16-valve engine, before putting on the belt, we put both rollers in place, but unlike the tension bypass, you can immediately tighten them.
The belt is worn from the bottom up. That is, first the teeth of the belt are installed on the crankshaft pulley, then it is thrown onto the pump, then it starts behind the rollers, and only then it is put on the camshaft pulley.
After installing the belt, it is tensioned. To do this, a special key or round-nose pliers are installed in special holes in the outer cage of the tension roller, after which it turns clockwise until the notch on this cage aligns with the rectangular recess on the inner sleeve.
While holding the roller in this position, the bolt of its fastening is tightened.
Having finished with the tightening, we reinstall the lower protective cover, the washer and the generator drive pulley. After that, we check the correctness of the work.
To do this, first check the coincidence of all the marks, then turn the crankshaft a few revolutions, after which we combine all the marks again. If they converge, the replacement work has been done correctly and you can proceed with the assembly. Here we note that a slight deviation is allowed on any marks, but not more than a couple of millimeters.
When checking the coincidence of marks on a 16-valve engine, this action should be given more attention, since there are two camshafts, and a mismatch of marks on any of them can lead to significant interruptions in the operation of the motor.