In most cases, an extraneous whistle or creak under the hood indicates that it's time to change. Moreover, the sooner this is done, the less likely it is for ultra-rapid wear of other functional elements with which it is associated. Let's try to see how to change this part outside the workshop. Although it is worth noting that servicing cars in the appropriate places has more guarantees for the long-term operation of the car than with independent and not always qualified actions.
Work order
So, before installing a new belt, you need to check the condition of the roller, it may also need to be replaced. Next, perform the following tasks:
- Delete expansion tank. To do this, slightly pull it up.
- Put a special wrench on the tensioner bolt.
- After removing the fasteners, dismantle the belt (by throwing it off the roller).
- Check couplings and rollers for extraneous noise and play. This requires mechanical movement of them.
- Put the belt on (you need to put it on from the bottom up, holding it in tension).
- Align the belt.
However, it may not always be necessary to replace the drive belt. Sometimes in the generator it is enough to tighten it. This procedure is simpler and consists of the following steps:
- loosen the fasteners slightly;
- turn the adjustment bolt clockwise in the direction of travel, remove the generator from the engine block;
- depending on the level of tension, tighten the nuts of the fasteners.
Attention! The stretching process can be individual depending on the make and modification of the car. In some cases, even such a procedure will require qualified assistance.
The service life of most belts is more than 100 thousand kilometers. However, much depends on the intensity of use of the car.
Speaking of professional replacement parts in a service or technical center, it should be noted that the procedure takes no more than a few hours.
Features of belt replacement also depend on its type. Several types can be used in the units of the unit:
- Serrated. It is based on a polymer composite. The device has many teeth, which gave the belt its name.
- Wedge. This type has one large wedge on the entire surface of the belt.
- Polyclinic. Consists of many wedges.
Each of them is used in different engine systems and, accordingly, will have different replacement features. If you have any questions about how to change or choose a drive belt, in Barnaul you can always contact the RTI-Promeksport company and get professional advice.
The rubber element of the gas distribution mechanism performs essential function, synchronizing the work of both shafts car engine. Periodic diagnosis of the timing belt and its timely replacement is the key to the normal functioning of the motor. Find out how you can put on a belt with your own hands, thereby saving a decent amount of money.
In fact, every car owner is capable of replacing this unit if he has at least some knowledge in the field of repair.
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The frequency of replacing the belt depends on the specific car manufacturer. For example, domestic producers VAZ recommend in the manual to change the belt every 60 thousand kilometers. Some exceptions apply to 1.5-liter powertrains. They are endowed with pistons on which zinc is made, which significantly increases engine protection in the event of a belt break. On other versions, if the belt is torn, a mandatory and immediate replacement is needed. Otherwise, this is already a direct road to overhaul.
Any replacement of the automobile assembly, and indeed work with the machine, requires the preparation of tools. In this case, we need a set of standard motorist keys, a special tool for adjusting the tension roller, screwdrivers and new parts.
- We find the timing belt. It's near the engine, on the side.
- We disconnect the mass from the battery.
- We unscrew the upper fixing bolt of the generator, and then we take the generator towards the power plant.
- We put the gearbox lever at the highest speed, and begin to turn the crankshaft flywheel. The gear marks must match the pointer on the fuselage of the clutch or with the bar on the motor.
- Weaken tension roller.
- We take out the belt, fixing the risks of the crankshaft from turning (you can insert a screwdriver between the teeth).
In the process of replacing the belt, it is also advised to install a new roller. If there are not enough teeth on the crankshaft pulley, the wheel must also be replaced with a new one.
Now put on a new belt.
- We unfold the new rubber part with the outer side facing us.
- We cling it first to the lower pulley.
- While holding the tension so that the belt does not come off, it is necessary to hook it on the upper wheel and on the pulley from the water pump.
- The roller is well tightened.
Now it remains only to check the tension. It is believed that maximum angle belt turn should not exceed ninety degrees.
Algorithm for the replacement on the domestic "top ten" (8 valves)
Below is detailed instructions by replacement.
- The battery must be de-energized.
- The protective cover bolts are unscrewed.
- The right wheel "tens" is removed.
- The mudguard and protection are dismantled.
- Now you should take the flywheel of the generator and scroll it clockwise until the marks on the cover and pulley match.
- You should also remove the protective plug from the gearbox in order to diagnose the coincidence of the control risks.
- The flywheel is locked with a mount.
- It is removed by unscrewing the generator wheel.
- You should now find the nut that fixes the tension roller, and then remove it.
- The belt is loose and can be removed.
Note. At this stage of work, it is recommended to take a rag, moisten it with a degreaser, and then go through all the parts. Thus, the freed zones should be cleaned of dirt and traces of oil after removing the belt and roller. At the final stage, you need to go over the treated parts with a dry cloth.
- The roller is new and the belt is installed according to the marked marks.
Attention. It happens that there are no marks on the belt. As a rule, this is extra evidence of a non-original part. If such a belt is available, it will have to be installed so that the inscription is normally read from left to right.
- The belt is fixed by means of a roller tension.
- At this stage, the coincidence of the risks is diagnosed, as well as the level of tension.
- After that, the correctness of the labels is also diagnosed on the working “tens” power unit.
- The protection is put in place only after making sure that a normal sound comes from a working belt, nothing makes noise anywhere.
Video on how to change the belt
Algorithm for the replacement on the "top ten" (16 valves)
Many experts and experienced motorists believe that it is better not to take on a 16-valve engine for a person with little knowledge of repairs. 8-valve, yes, the timing belt can be removed and installed easily, but on a 16-valve it is much more difficult to manipulate.
However, if you have a strong desire, you can get down to business. So, you need to arm yourself with the same tools as always.
- The latches of the protective cover are turned out (there are also 6 of them), the casing is removed.
- The crankshaft regulator (sensor) is dismantled.
- The piston of the 1st cylinder is installed at a dead center.
Note. You need to navigate by the missing tooth on the pulley. It is designed just to determine the TDC.
- Next, you need to lock the flywheel, unscrew it and remove it.
The subsequent steps are similar to the operation to remove the belt on an 8-valve engine.
Examination
You should know that the belt is a rubber-metal part with teeth. On some car models, just a metal chain is installed. The task of the belt is to synchronize the operation of the shafts, and in other words, to regulate the intake of fuel and the release of exhaust gases. Without ok installed belt the gas distribution mechanism will not be able to cope with this matter.
It was written above that the belt should be checked regularly in order to detect signs of wear in time. To correctly diagnose the condition of the part, it is recommended to do the following.
- On many vehicles, the belt is protected by a special cover. It has a cap that needs to be removed.
- It is also recommended to remove the alternator belt so that it does not interfere.
- The front protective cover is fixed with six bolts. They must be unscrewed, and then the cover removed.
Thus, we get access to the belt. It should not show cuts or bulges, there should not be any signs of delamination or broken threads. The belt is carefully checked for cracks, severe abrasions and oil stains. If any of these are present on the belt, it should be replaced immediately.
In conclusion, let's say that before replacing the belt, you need to try to do the most right choice. On the modern market there are a lot of parts that are not original production or just fakes. Probably, you should not give the shortcomings of a low-quality timing belt, they are already known. Further operation of such a belt will only be an extra reason to get stressed.
Nothing more simple and effective has yet been invented to transfer torque from crankshaft to the alternator rotor than the belt. It would seem that what is special about this piece of rubber with polymer threads soldered into it? But the rupture of this seemingly insignificant element entails not only the impossibility of charging the battery and the de-energization of many components of the car, but also the possibility of a complete stop of the car. Since the battery charge is mainly designed to start the car, and the functioning of the entire electrical network is ensured by the operation of the generator. To avoid such nuances, you should know the main types of this product, its service life, possible signs indicating its wear, and how the alternator belt is replaced with your own hands.
A variety of engine designs entailed no less number of types, drive belts for mounted units and diagrams for their correct location.
For better contact with the knots, they are made various forms internal surface and are divided into three types:
- gear - products with a variety of transverse profile pitch, having high precision transmission moment;
- poly-wedge (river) with longitudinally located ribs, which have greater reliability;
- wedge - trapezoidal section, where the working sides are not intended for reverse bending.
For each of these types, respectively, manufacturers also recommend a service life, which can vary within 50-70 thousand kilometers of a car.
Different vehicles - different installation scheme
In earlier models of cars, a direct connection of the generator drive to the engine pulley was used without any bends, but in a modern car, a belt drive is often used to supply torque to the drives of several devices: air conditioning, pump, air conditioning compressor, generator and other units. And lying between these nodes, the belt can write out bizarre configurations and bends, this pattern is called - the correct installation diagram. A thrifty car enthusiast should always have this drawing at hand, so that if a break occurs on the road, they do not suffer, wrinkling their forehead, remembering how to replace the alternator drive belt. And, of course, it is advisable to carry a spare set just in case of an emergency. 
Signs indicating belt wear
Before covering the ways and methods of replacement, let's touch possible signs indicating that the time has come:
- upon external examination, with the engine turned off, there is a loss of elasticity, cracks, small tears and tattered sides, a clear sign of an imminent failure;
- loosening of the belt tension due to its stretching or breakage of the tension roller;
- a noticeable whistle when starting the engine, increasing speed or turning on electrical appliances, the reason may lie in poor belt tension or jamming of one of the drives involved in the circuit. This can be either a compressor or generator drive, or a failure of the air conditioner clutch bearing or tensioner bearing;
- the appearance of a signal on the sensors, indicating a decrease in battery charging or the performance of the generator itself.
We should not forget about the planned replacement of this product within its service life.
Alternator Belt Replacement Options
To carry out work when it is necessary to replace the alternator belt, you do not need special skills and knowledge, you cannot call such work simple, but there is nothing extraordinary in it. Initially, you should disconnect the mass from the battery, and figure out which parts, protective covers or other components prevent access to the belt and generator.
If in a car the generator drive is directly connected to the engine shaft pulley, then everything is very simple here, since in this case the tension is made by the bolts of the generator itself, plus an additional fixing bolt. Having freed up space for free access to the belt and the generator, the above-described bolts are unscrewed and the belt tension is loosened.
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In another option, where the functioning of not only the generator, but also the air conditioner, pump and other components depends on the belt, the work of replacing the generator belt is slightly more complicated. Might have to take it off front wheel fender and crankcase protection to gain access to the belt, tensioner and wires of the involved units.
After removing all the interfering parts, loosen the belt:
- if the tension is due to the roller, then loosen the bolt or nut fixing the roller;
- if this function is performed by a spring tensioner, then the same result is achieved by simply acting on the roller in the desired direction.
After removing the belt, it is advisable to carry out, if its condition is in doubt, then replace it. Also, after examining the belt, you should pay attention to the nature of the damage, and find out why they were formed. Often the failure of various mechanisms can provoke its wear and tear.
It would be useful to compare the old and new belts: length, width, number of teeth (streams), etc. There are precedents for discrepancies in some parameters of a seemingly branded product.
The installation of a new belt must be carried out in the same sequence and according to the existing layout for a particular vehicle.
Let us examine the cases when it is necessary to replace or replace the drum drive belt of the washing machine yourself. But a loose or torn belt indicates certain signs of malfunction that need to be identified and fixed. After all, if it breaks, the belt can damage a lot of electrical wires, sensors and other elements that are located in the back of the washing machine tank. We will also dwell on why the drum drive belt flies or breaks.
1. Features of self-replacement and installation of the drive belt
V-belts. Installed on washing machines asynchronous motors. In cross section, such belts have the shape of a truncated triangle. On the outside, the length of the belt is always indicated, according to which you can choose, if necessary, a new one. Made from tougher material. As a rule, they rarely break.
The V-belt should be tight "like a string" and have very little flex in the middle. Otherwise, problems with spinning and failure of the washing program may occur.
Installation of a flown V-belt drive begins with the engine pulley, the rest is put on the drum pulley, after which we carefully, with effort, rotate the drum pulley, fit the entire belt.
If the belt is stretched, then it is necessary to tension it with the engine. To do this, you need to remove the belt, loosen the engine mounts, move it in the direction of increasing the length of the belt, tighten the mount and install the belt. If the tension of the drive belt is not provided for by the design of the washing machine, then it must be replaced with a new one.
V-ribbed belts. Are established on machines with collector engines. In cross section, they have a serrated shape of several small wedges. They differ in length, which is indicated in millimeters, as well as in shape (“H” or “J”) and the number of wedges, the shape of which depends on the teeth on the engine pulley. For example, the designation on the V-ribbed belt “1287 H8” means that its length is 1287 mm, its wedges are “H” shaped and their number is 8 pieces. The rest of the designations on the belt do not have much meaning.
The installation of the V-ribbed belt must begin with the engine pulley, in the same place where it stood earlier. Next, we put the rest of the belt on the drum pulley and, turning the pulley, install the belt completely. It is desirable that the position of the belt is in the middle of the drum pulley.
The tension of the V-ribbed belt must be such that the middle part can be wrapped around its axis by 360 degrees, and further rotation must be very tight.
Separately, on some models of washing machines (for example, narrow Siltal machines), V-ribbed belts are installed very tightly. This means that when putting the belt on the drum pulley, it may seem that the belt does not correspond to the declared length. But this is not the case, you just need to apply more force than usual when putting on the belt and rotating the pulley, being careful not to hurt your hands.
2. Narrow machine models - more frequent belt wear
Accelerated belt wear is a "disease" of narrow washing machines. All nodes and elements of such models are located close to the body, and the belt is no exception. When the narrow machine is still new, the springs and shock absorbers work properly. But subsequently they wear out a little, the amplitude of the tank during the spin cycle increases and as a result, the belt begins to touch the back wall of the case.
This, in the end, leads to damage and stretching of the belt. Then it needs to be replaced, because the stretched belt subsequently flies off and can damage wires and other elements.
3. The drum pulley cracked and the belt fell off
A cracked or broken drum pulley can also be the cause of a loose belt. The fact is that it is made of a rigid, but brittle alloy, which, if the linen is overloaded, the belt is unbalanced or incorrectly tensioned, may not withstand and burst.
4. Belt fell off due to worn bearings
When the bearings of the washing machine are worn out, this, in addition to extraneous noise, also causes the vibration of the drum pulley, which increases with each wash. If used for a long time washing machine with worn bearings, the vibration of the pulley becomes so strong that the belt during spinning can stretch and fly off, and in some cases break.
5. Overloading and unbalance of laundry lead to belt breakage
Often, the reason that the washing machine belt has come off is a temporary imbalance of the laundry during the spin cycle. If the washing machine failed to spread the laundry evenly before spinning, then during the spin cycle, a sharp blow of the tub against the walls of the housing may occur. Violent shaking may cause the drive belt to come off.
6. Vertical models - flies off due to tank deformation
Such a malfunction often occurs on Brand upright models of washing machines with an ECO (economy option) ending after about 8-10 years of operation. The fact is that over a long period of operation of the washing machine, its plastic tank is deformed, as a result of which the drum pulley and the motor pulley gradually shift relative to each other.
This causes the belt on the drum pulley to shift towards the tub of the washing machine. In the future, the belt is so displaced that part of its plane begins to hang over the plane of the drum pulley, and it flies off during the spin cycle.
Temporarily, the problem can be solved by extending the engine towards the housing wall. This can extend the life of the washing machine by half a year or a year.
To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to replace the tank and possibly the drum, which is unprofitable economically. Therefore, in the end, such a machine has to be replaced.
7. Drying and breaking of the belt, as a result of the rare use of the machine
Often the reason for a broken belt is that it dries out at the point of greatest bend, where the belt goes around the motor pulley. For some reason, this happens mainly on vertical models and after they decide to use the machine after a long break in work.
That is, the bent section of the belt, with a long stay in this state, dries up and takes on a certain rigid shape. After the start of rotation, this section, which has lost its elasticity, begins to stretch and break off.