On VW Polo cars, it is necessary to change the timing belt every 75-80 thousand km. It is recommended to check the belt every inspection for bending, fraying and stretching in order to avoid accidentally breaking the belt in the middle of the road.
The first symptom of a worn belt is a characteristic knock when the engine is running. Its unstable operation also affects (little power, stalls, poor reaction to the accelerator pedal). If the engine stalls and no longer starts, it is most likely the timing belt.
Tools
- A set of wrenches.
- Set of heads.
- Ratchet.
- Screwdriver cross and flat.
- A hammer.
- Gloves.
The procedure for replacing the timing belt takes from 3 to 6 hours, depending on the level of training and availability necessary tools. It is recommended to carry out replacement at specialized service centers. Instruction:
- Place the car on a viewing hole or lifting box.
- Remove the engine protection.
- Disconnect the minus terminal from the battery.
- Remove the air intake.
- Disconnect the hose of the large branch of the ventilation system. It is located on the engine camshaft housing.
- Remove the non-return valve of the ventilation hose.
- Disconnect check valve and crankcase gas hose.
- Squeeze the fixing elements of the hose holder on the oil separator.
- Unscrew and remove the two bolts securing the oil separator to the cylinder head.
- Pull the pipe out of the hole.
- Carry out dismantling drive belt auxiliary units.
- Remove refrigerant from the air conditioning system.
- Press on the locking elements of the block of the wire harness for turning off the air conditioning compressor.
- Disconnect the block after pressing the latch by pulling it towards you.
- Unscrew the bolts securing the flanges of the high and low pressure pipelines to the air conditioning compressor housing. Dismantle pipelines. After removing them, you must immediately close the holes with plugs.
- Remove the three A/C compressor mounting bolts.
- Dismantle the air conditioning compressor of a VW Polo car.
- Unscrew and remove from the threaded holes the three mounting bolts of the compressor bracket to the engine block of the car engine.
- Remove the air conditioning compressor mounting bracket from the vehicle body.
- Drain the oil from the engine lubrication system.
- Remove the two bolts securing the flywheel or hydraulic transformer disc guard.
- Remove the flywheel shield itself from the car.
- Unscrew twenty bolts of fastenings of an oil crankcase of the car.
- Take out the oil pan. To do this, it is necessary to apply light blows with a hammer around the perimeter of the pallet.
- Unscrew the pulley mounting bolt, holding the engine crankshaft from scrolling. To do this, you need a mounting spatula.
- Dismantle the pulley.
- Drain the coolant from the engine cooling system of the vehicle.
- Unscrew and remove the three screws securing the coolant pump pulley.
- Remove the coolant pump pulley from the vehicle.
- Hang with a hoist power unit.
- Disconnect the ground wire from the stud.
- Remove the bracket for the right suspension support of the power unit from the vehicle.
- Dismantle the cover drive chain gas distribution mechanism.
- Remove cover gasket.
- Mark the location of the timing chain, camshaft sprockets and crankshaft sprocket. This only needs to be done in case of re-installation. When replacing with a new belt, this procedure is not necessary.
- Press the timing chain tensioner and lock it in this position. To do this, you need to mount the pin.
- Unscrew the two bolts securing the belt chain tensioner and the timing gear.
- Remove tensioner from vehicle.
- Remove the timing chain tensioner shoe.
- Remove the timing chain from the vehicle.
- Assess the condition of the timing belt.
- Replacing with a new timing belt and installing all parts is done in the reverse order of removal.
- Adjust the gas distribution phases (recommended in service centers).
- Check the vehicle's performance and the presence of extraneous sounds.
The procedure for replacing the timing belt is highly recommended to be entrusted to auto mechanics at service centers. Otherwise, if the belt is not installed correctly or if certain parts are not fastened correctly, this will provoke an even more in-depth and complex repair.
The importance of the timing belt on modern cars
Timing plays an integral role in the stable operation of the engine of any car. Malfunction or critical deterioration affects the entire car. He simply won't go. In the case of small engines (up to 1.4), a torn timing belt pulls out and bends the valve.
Symptoms: knocking when the engine is running, the engine is unstable, the engine stalled and no longer starts.
Possible reason: Timing chain damaged.
Tools: a set of wrenches, a set of sockets, a flat blade screwdriver, a Phillips screwdriver.
1. Place the vehicle on a lift or pit.
3. Disconnect the wire tip from the negative battery terminal.
5. Disconnect the hose of the large branch of the crankcase ventilation system from the fitting located on the engine camshaft housing.
6. Remove the crankcase ventilation hose check valve from the hole located in the air filter cover.
7. Separate the non-return valve and the crankcase ventilation hose.
8. Squeeze the fixing elements of the hose holder on the oil separator.
9. Disconnect the holder from the fixing element.
10. Turn off and take from carving openings two fixing bolts of an oil separator to a head of the block of cylinders of the engine.
11. Remove the oil separator pipe from the hole located in the timing chain cover.
Note. After dismantling the accessory drive belt, inspect it for oily surfaces, worn teeth, cracks, wrinkles, and other damage. If defects are found, replace the belt with a new one.
With a certain skill, the air conditioning compressor can be removed without disconnecting the pipelines from it. In this case, secure the compressor with a rope or wire to the car body.
13. Remove the coolant from the air conditioning system.
14. Press on the locking elements of the block of the wire harness of the electromagnetic clutch for turning off the air conditioning compressor. After that, disconnect the block.
15. Loosen and remove the high and low pressure to the A/C compressor housing, then disconnect the pipes.
Note. Immediately after the pipelines are disconnected, plug the openings in them. This is necessary in order to prevent dirt and moisture from entering the air conditioning system.
16. Unscrew and remove the three mounting bolts from the mounting holes.
17. Remove the air conditioning compressor from the car.
18. Turn off and take from carving openings three fixing bolts of a fixing arm of the compressor of the conditioner to the block of cylinders of the engine.
19. Remove the A/C compressor mounting bracket from the vehicle.
Note. When installing the air conditioning compressor, consider the following features:
– Tighten the fixing bolts of the air conditioning compressor to the engine with a torque of 25–29 N∙m;
– install new sealing rings on previously disconnected pipelines, and then apply compressor oil to them;
– Connect the pipelines to the air conditioning compressor and tighten the fixing bolts of the flanges to a torque of 7–9 N∙m;
– fill the air conditioning system with refrigerant by contacting a specialized center for servicing automobile air conditioners.
20. Drain the oil from the engine lubrication system.
21. Unscrew and remove the two bolts securing the flywheel protective shield (hydraulic transformer disk; depends on the vehicle configuration).
22. Remove the flywheel guard from the vehicle.
23. Unscrew and remove twenty bolts securing the oil pan.
24. Remove the oil pan from the vehicle by lightly tapping the perimeter of the oil pan with a rubber mallet.
Note. Before installing the oil pan, clean the mating surfaces of the crankcase and engine block of old sealant. After that, apply a special sealant with a 2-3 mm roller. Remember that the sealant application line must run with inside holes for fixing screws. Five minutes after the sealant is applied, connect the oil sump to the engine block, screw in the mounting bolts and tighten them to a torque of 13 N∙m.
25. Unscrew and remove the pulley mounting bolt, holding the engine crankshaft from turning with a mounting spatula in the manner indicated in the attached photo.
26. Remove the pulley.
27. Drain the liquid from the engine cooling system.
28. Turn off and take out three fixing screws of a pulley of the pump of a cooling liquid.
29. Remove the coolant pump pulley from the vehicle.
30. Hang out the power unit using the lifting mechanism.
31. Unscrew and remove the mounting nut of the ground wire tip to the mounting stud of the power unit right suspension support bracket.
32. Disconnect the "mass" wire from the hairpin.
33. Unscrew and remove the mounting pin (marked with the letter "B" in the attached photo) and two mounting bolts (marked with the letter "A" in the attached photo) of the bracket of the right power unit suspension support.
34. Unscrew and remove the fixing nut of the bracket of the right suspension support of the power unit.
35. Remove the bracket of the right suspension support of the power unit from the vehicle.
Note. When installing the right power unit outrigger bracket, tighten the mounting stud and mounting bolts to 30 N∙m, and then tighten by 90 degrees.
36. Unscrew and remove the three central timing chain cover mounting bolts.
37. Unscrew and remove the timing chain cover mounting bolt. Similarly, unscrew and remove sixteen more mounting bolts.
38. Remove the timing chain cover and cover gasket.
Note. When installing the timing chain cover, consider the following points.
The Volkswagen Polo Sedan 1.6 manufacturer has set a clear schedule for replacing the timing chain on this car - 80,000 km. But earlier wear of this consumable is quite possible. The reason for this may lie both in the driving style of the motorist, and in adverse driving conditions. The condition of the chain drive must be constantly diagnosed. This should be done after 25,000 km.
What causes a worn chain?
Driving with a worn timing chain is fraught with serious consequences. Of course, the chain is not a belt, and it is unlikely to break, but with a certain degree of wear, it may well come off the sprockets. Then the pistons will collide with the valves, which will lead to deformation of the latter. Pistons and cylinders will also suffer, and the car will have to be overhauled. In addition, after a certain period of time, the chain will definitely stretch, and it will also have to be changed. In order not to forget when the last chain was replaced, you can put a sign under the hood with the appropriate inscription.
But what symptoms will indicate the wear of the chain drive:
- car won't start right away.
- extraneous noises are heard when the engine is on;
- the car began to consume much more fuel;
- motor power has decreased.
If one of these symptoms is detected, you should pay attention to the condition of the chain drive. Of course, there may be other reasons, but still, chain wear is quite likely.
To make repairs of this complexity is quite within the power of every motorist. Of course, you can turn to specialists. But such repairs are not cheap. This is, firstly, and secondly, by personally replacing the chain drive, you get the experience that is so necessary for those who want to take care of their car.
If you decide that you will change the chain yourself, then stock up on everything you need. Go to the store and buy new consumables there. In addition to the chain itself, most likely, tensioners and dampers will also have to be replaced. Prepare the necessary tools for repair:
- jack;
- spanners;
- set of heads;
- screwdrivers with various types tips.
Now that everything is ready, you can proceed directly to the repair. Don't forget about safety precautions. Remember that it's very easy to get hurt or even hurt yourself when doing this type of repair, so be careful.
The process of replacing a chain drive without the involvement of specialists
As a rule, the replacement of the chain drive takes 4-5 hours. Of course, everything here will depend on the level of preparation of the motorist. So let's start.
- We install the car on the overpass.
- We remove protection from the engine.
- We de-energize the car by disconnecting the left terminal from the battery.
- We remove the air intake.
- Now pay attention to the camshaft housing. It has a ventilation hose. It needs to be removed.
- We also remove the check valve.
- The oil separator is bolted to the cylinder block with two bolts. We unscrew them and remove the oil separator. The pipe must be brought out through the hole.
- We remove the drive of auxiliary units.
- Now you need to remove the refrigerant from the air conditioning system.
- We pay attention to the clamps of the block of the wire harness of the air conditioner. You need to press on them and dismantle the block, slightly pulling it in your direction.
- We remove pipelines of high and low pressure. Holes formed in their place must be immediately plugged. Be sure to do this, otherwise dirt will enter the system.
- We also remove the air conditioning compressor. To do this, unscrew 3 bolts.
- Remove the compressor bracket. It is also attached with three bolts.
- Now you need to drain the oil from the engine system.
- Dismantle the flywheel shield.
- Remove the oil pan. Here you will have to tinker, as you will have to unscrew as many as 20 bolts.
- The oil pan will also need to be removed. He may not give in the first time. To remove it, you need to make uniform blows with a hammer around the entire perimeter.
- Now we take the mounting blade and fix the crankshaft with it so that it does not scroll. We unscrew the bolt that secures the crankshaft pulley. We remove the pulley.
- We drain the antifreeze.
- Now we remove the pulley of the pump that supplies coolant to the system.
- We remove the power unit using a lift.
- Remove the suspension support bracket, which is located on the right.
- Now remove the chain drive cover. Don't forget to remove the gasket. Assess her condition. It may also need to be replaced.
24. We note the location of the chain drive, gears on the shafts.
25. Press the chain tensioner and fix it in this position.
26. Remove the chain tensioners, having previously unscrewed all the necessary bolts.
27. We remove the shoe, and after it the chain itself.
Assembly procedures should be carried out in reverse order. Be sure to check the operation of the engine. If uncharacteristic noises are heard, then something was done incorrectly, and the procedure will have to be repeated.
Video
Everything would be fine, the motor is like a motor, if it were not for the knock of the engine on a cold one. A lot of CFNA motors start knocking before reaching a hundred thousand kilometers, and in some cases a defect occurs already in the first 30 thousand.
Be careful when buying. A common problem is progressive knocking after a cold start.
Polo Sedan Engine - CFNA
At the time, the exit Russian market models Polo Sedan costing from 399 tr. (!) became a sensation and was considered an achievement of the Volkswagen concern. Still would! To get Volkswagen quality for that kind of money is a dream of many. But, as is often the case, low price badly affected the quality of the product - the engine of the Polo SedanCFNA 1.6L 105 HPwas not as reliable as expected.
CFNA 1.6 engine was installed not only on the Polo Sedan, but also on other models of the Volkswagen group, including those assembled abroad. From 2010 to 2015, this motor was installed on the following models:
- Volkswagen
- Polo Sedan
- Jetta
- Vento
- Lavida
- Skoda
- Rapid
- Fabia
- roomster
If you do not know which motor is installed on this particular car, then you can find out by its VIN code.
CFNA motor problems
The main problem of the engineCFNA 1.6 is knock on cold. First, the knock of the pistons on the cylinder walls is manifested by a slight tinkling in the first minutes after a cold start. As the piston warms up, it expands, pressing against the cylinder walls, so the knock disappears until the next cold start.
At first, the owner may not attach any importance to this, but the knock progresses and soon even an inattentive car owner realizes that something is wrong with the engine. The very appearance of a knock (piston hitting the cylinder wall) indicates the beginning of the active phase of engine destruction. With the advent of summer, the knocking may recede, but with the first frost, CFNA will start knocking again.
Gradually, the CFNA engine knock "on cold" increases its duration, and one day, it remains even after the engine has warmed up.
Engine knock
The knock of the engine piston against the cylinder wall occurs when the pistons are shifted at top dead center. This becomes possible as a result of wear of the pistons and cylinder walls. The graphite coating on the skirts quickly wears down to the metal of the piston
In places where the piston rubs against the cylinder walls, significant wear occurs
Then the piston metal begins to hit the cylinder wall and then scuffs appear on the piston skirt.
And on the cylinder wall
Despite a large number of complaints, Volkswagen concern for years of release CFNA engine(2010-2015) never declared a revocable company. Instead of replacing the entire unit, the manufacturer performs piston group repair, and even then only in the case of a warranty claim.
The Volkswagen Group does not disclose the results of its research, but it follows from the sparse explanation that cause of defect, ostensibly, is in an unsuccessful piston design. In the event of a warranty claim, service centers replace the standard EM pistons with modified ET pistons, which supposedly should completely solve piston knock problem.
But as practice shows, overhaul of the CFNA engine is not the final solution to the problem and half of the owners again complain about the appearance of engine knock, after several thousand km. run. The other half of those faced with the knock of this engine, after a major overhaul, try to sell the car as soon as possible.
There is a version that chronic oil starvation caused by low oil pressure may be the true cause of the rapid wear of the CFNA engine. The oil pump does not provide sufficient pressure when the engine is idling, so the engine is regularly in oil starvation mode, which leads to accelerated wear.
Resource
Declared by the manufacturer Polo Sedan engine resource is 200 thousand km, but traditionally atmospheric engines with a volume of 1.6 liters manufactured by Volkswagen must walk at least 300-400 thousand km.
Such a defect as the knock of pistons on a cold one makes these figures irrelevant. The Volkswagen group does not disclose official statistics, but judging by the activity on the forums, 5 out of 10 CFNA engines start knocking on runs from 30 to 100 thousand km. There are also known cases of manifestation of a defect on runs of less than 10 thousand km.
However, it should be noted that no cases of a stuck CFNA motor have been recorded. This is probably due to the fact that the knock progresses gradually and gives time to decide whether to repair the engine or sell the car.
Among the large number of complaints about knocking, there are isolated reports of successful long-term operation of the motor, which has a knock on a cold one, which allegedly does not progress and does not bother. Unfortunately, such reports are not confirmed by video recordings and, most likely, there is a knock not on pistons, but on hydraulic lifters. According to the reviews of car owners whose engine began to knock for real, it soon becomes impossible to ignore this knock. The ringing becomes such that “it’s a shame to stand next to the car” and “it can be heard from the balcony of the 7th floor.”
CFNA engine replacement
If the car is under warranty, the manufacturer performs a free warranty repair, replacing stock EM pistons with modified ET pistons. The cylinder block and crankshaft can also be replaced, but these expensive parts are not always changed under warranty.
Engine CFNA equipped timing chain drive, and the chain tensioner does not have a reverse lock. There are no grooves on the pistons either, so chain break/jump leads to Armageddon valve bend motor. The steel chain is designed to provide a higher resource and reliability in comparison with a belt drive. In fact, the timing chain of this engine stretches quite quickly and needs to be replaced already by 100 thousand kilometers.
The chain tensioner does not have a backstop and operates only due to oil pressure, which is pumped by the oil pump and occurs only after the engine is started. Thus, the chain tension occurs only when the engine is running, and while the engine is turned off, the stretched chain can move with the tensioner.
Concerning it is not recommended to park the car with the gear engaged, but without parking brake. When starting the engine, a stretched chain on the camshaft gears may jump. In this case, it is possible for the valves to meet the piston, which leads to costly engine repairs.
Over time, during operation, the standard CFNA exhaust manifold cracks and the car starts to growl in a bass voice. replacement exhaust manifold it is advisable to do it for free, before the end of the warranty, otherwise it will either have to be replaced (for 47 thousand rubles) or brewed (as in the photo), which will cost less.
Characteristics of the CFNA motor
Manufacturer: Volkswagen
Years of issue: October 2010 - November 2015
Engine CFNA 1.6 l. 105 HP belongs to the series EA 111. It was produced for 5 years, from October 2010 to November 2015, and then was discontinued and replaced by an engine CWVA from the new generation EA211.
Engine configuration
Inline, 4 cylinders
2 camshafts without phase shifters
4 valves/cylinder, hydraulic lifters
Timing drive: Chain
Cylinder block: Aluminum + Cast iron sleeves
Power: 105 HP(77 kW).
Torque 153 Nm
Compression ratio: 10.5
Bore/Stroke: 76.5/86.9
Aluminum pistons. Piston diameter, taking into account thermal gap for expansion, is 76.460 mm
In addition, there is a CFNB version, which is completely identical, but is equipped with a different firmware, thanks to which the engine power is reduced to 85 hp.
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FUNCTIONAL PURPOSE OF THE TIMING BELT
Replacing the timing belt is part of the scheduled Maintenance Volkswagen car Polo and plays important role in engine operation vehicle. Untimely replacement belt can lead to a malfunction of the motor, and a break to deformation of the valve timing mechanism and the need for overhaul engine.
All parts of the gas distribution mechanism are closely related to each other, air injection fuel mixture drives the piston of the engine cylinder, which in turn pushes the crankshaft connected by a drive belt with camshaft. Thus, there is a movement of the camshaft, which regulates the frequency of movement of the valves. timing belt Volkswagen Polo connects the gears and transmits torque from the crankshaft to the camshaft, affecting the speed of its rotation. If the system is working, the frequency of their revolutions should be equal.
TYPES OF FAULTS OF THE TIMING BELT
- Timing belt wear leads to a change in the torque transmission force from the crankshaft to the camshaft, resulting in a change in the frequency of movement of the pistons and engine valves. This, in turn, leads to a malfunction of the gas distribution system, rapid heating of the engine and, as a result, a decrease in engine power and an increase in the consumption of the fuel mixture. For reliable and trouble-free operation of the motor, it is necessary that the valves close and open at the same frequency as the engine pistons. If, due to wear, the timing belt slips, this can cause a break.
- A broken timing belt for a Volkswagen Polo is the most dangerous engine damage. In the event of such a malfunction, the camshaft ceases to be associated with crankshaft and can stop completely arbitrarily in a position in which any of the valves of the gas distribution mechanism is open. In this case, the piston, moving up, may collide with the valve, which will lead to its deformation. In this case, the car's engine is in danger of serious repairs. It should be noted that a timing belt break does not occur unexpectedly, it is almost always accompanied by changes in the operation of the car engine, a decrease in its power, a change in gasoline consumption, the appearance of extraneous squeaks, squeaks, etc.
To prevent and prevent the operation of the gas distribution mechanism, it is necessary to periodically replace the timing belt, this will save the Volkswagen Polo car engine from damage, prevent premature engine wear and increase its service life.
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CAUSES AND ASSESSMENT OF WEAR OF THE TIMING BELT
Timing belt wear occurs for a number of reasons, avoiding which can extend the life of a car engine.
To prevent complete wear of the timing belt, it is necessary periodically, during a visual inspection of the gas distribution mechanism, to check for damage on the surface of the belt. To inspect and evaluate the belt drive, it is necessary to unscrew and remove the protective cover of the mechanism, under which the engine is hidden. The first signs of wear are:
- the appearance of oil and antifreeze smudges that can chemically destroy the timing belt, with prolonged exposure;
- the occurrence of longitudinal cracks on the back surface of the belt;
- the formation of transverse cracks on the inner surface of the drive belt;
- a ragged surface and a violation of the integrity of the edge are also a sign of wear;
- belt wear is also indicated by rubber dust on the surface of the part;
- if the timing belt teeth begin to peel off or wear out, the part must be replaced immediately with a new one.
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SYMPTOMS OF A FAULTY TIMING BELT
- Increased consumption of gasoline by car
- Decreased engine power
- Full stop of the car on the go, when you try to start the engine does not start, and the starter rotates easier than usual
- Unstable operation of the engine Idling and in motion;
- The occurrence of shots in the injector receiver and exhaust pipe
All these problems may indicate a shift in the valve timing and loosening of the belt tension. If you notice one or more signs of this list on your Volkswagen Polo, immediately contact the service station for an inspection.
HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU REPLACE A Volkswagen Polo Timing Belt?
The frequency of replacement of any consumables for cars depends on the style of driving and the mode of operation of the car. With extreme driving style and aggressive use of the vehicle, it is necessary to replace the timing belt as it wears out and the teeth wear out.
AT normal conditions operation, it is necessary to replace the original timing belt as planned, every 60 - 70,000 km. run. During this period, it develops its resource and becomes unusable. If your Volkswagen Polo is equipped with an analog belt, it will take a little while to replace. ahead of time recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
WHICH TIMING BELT IS BETTER TO CHOOSE
Modern belts for the gas distribution system are a high-tech product, characterized by increased strength and wear resistance, capable of withstanding high dynamic loads. Timing belts are produced from neoprene or polychloroprene reinforced with strong fiberglass, nylon and cotton cords.
- To avoid the mistake associated with buying a timing belt, contact the specialists who will help you order a timing belt suitable for your car engine using the WIN code of your car. This part is one of the most important in the design of the motor, the slightest deviation in the length, width, shape and size of the teeth can lead to engine malfunctions. Volkswagen cars Polo.
- Do not try to save money when buying a timing belt, a cheap product can be a low-quality fake that will quickly become unusable and can cause serious engine damage in the future. The best option for any car, there are original parts, their cost is higher than analog ones, but during the operation of the car they quickly pay for themselves.
- When buying a timing belt, check it for stiffness, good belt should be elastic and easy to bend. The worse the belt, the more rigid it will be.
- The presence of teeth, sagging, pores on the belt is not allowed - these are signs of a poor-quality belt that will quickly become unusable. The surface of the product must be smooth, small burrs are allowed.
- When buying on your own, check the timing belt part number printed on the back, it must match the WIN code of the car. If it is not possible to compare the code of the belt and the car, then it is necessary to make a visual comparison of the old and new belts, they must be completely identical.
- To avoid buying a fake, try to purchase spare parts only from authorized, trusted dealers.
- Do not save on a qualified timing belt replacement, contact our certified car service, where competent mechanics will help with the repair of your Volkswagen Polo. And in the spare parts store you can buy original spare parts for your car.
