Becoming a happy owner of a powerful and reliable toy controlled from a distance is a dream not only for many children, but also for some parents. Today, manufacturers are ready to offer a variety of entertainment that can surprise even the most sophisticated young consumers. Radio-controlled equipment can be a wonderful gift, and if properly maintained, it can last quite a long time.
Among a large number of models, radio-controlled gasoline cars deserve special attention, since the power and reliability indicators of these products are among the highest. About the features of these popular toys, their technical specifications and types further and will be discussed.
What is a remote control petrol machine?
First of all, it is worth saying that such a product is almost complete, but only a reduced copy of the usual vehicle. These cars also run on gasoline, while the maximum speeds are really impressive: some models easily accelerate to 80 km / h. However, it would be useful to note the fact that such mechanisms periodically require repair, just like ordinary cars, so the process of “driving” should be approached with all seriousness.
Of course, the use of such toys indoors is not recommended, since their full potential can only be appreciated in open areas, for example, on paved roads.
The main characteristics of petrol cars on radio control
There are many varieties of these models: these are cars for road racing, and buggies, and samples designed exclusively for drifting, which will be discussed a little later. This or that radio-controlled machine with a gasoline engine has its own characteristics.
So, a distinctive feature of these models is the remote control. For radio-controlled samples, its maximum radius of interaction with the machine is usually about 150 m.
Another unique detail is the gasoline engine, the power of which can be different. The scope of its operation depends on what type of motor is installed in a particular model.
If we compare radio-controlled gasoline cars in size, then we can safely distinguish both children's reduced products and large toys that are more suitable for adult lovers of such equipment.
What should determine the choice of a gasoline radio-controlled car?
In order for the purchased equipment to bring only joy, you should first carefully study the entire range of products and stop at the most suitable one. When choosing a typewriter for a child, it is necessary to be guided primarily by his age, but you should also think about how he will use the toy. If the main requirement for the product is speed, then it is best to choose a road model, and an off-road model is ideal for overcoming obstacles.
The younger the child, the easier it should be to manage. It is better to refuse to purchase highly sensitive devices so that the owner of the machine does not experience problems. At the same time, you should pay attention to the size of the product, since some radio-controlled gasoline cars are quite voluminous, which can be very inconvenient for a small child. Large models - perfect option for adults.
Proper operation of a gasoline machine on a remote control
In order for such a toy to last as long as possible, you need to responsibly approach its content. Do not forget that it is very problematic for a child to cope with such a technique, so it is better if there is always an adult nearby. Of course, all repair and maintenance work (changing fuel, oil, lubricating parts, etc.) should also be carried out by parents, not only because of the risk of equipment breakdown, but also because harmful fuel vapors are dangerous for the child's body.
Many radio-controlled gasoline cars are sold unassembled, so it is extremely important to follow the attached instructions when assembling such products. In addition, safety rules exclude any play near fire sources and open water.
Characteristics and advantages of radio-controlled cars for drifting
As mentioned earlier, fuel-powered equipment powered by a remote control may differ depending on its purpose. So, radio-controlled gasoline cars for drifting are very popular among consumers. Both adults and children like these models, and their difference from ordinary high-speed toys lies in the following technical characteristics:
- such gasoline cars are equipped with special shock absorbers with drift springs;
- the tires of these products do not have a tread pattern and are more rigid than conventional models;
- as a rule, the basis of the body of such a toy is shockproof plastic, as well as a durable bumper that protects equipment from impacts;
- the special design of the suspension allows you to perform various technical elements.
How not to make a mistake when choosing a gas drift car?
RC toy cars designed specifically for this purpose should not be bought for a very young child, since the minimum age of the owner should be 3 years.
In addition, it should be remembered that there are no completely universal models. This means that when purchasing a toy car for drifting, you should not expect any other properties from it, such as high speeds or high cross-country ability.
Another important point is the type of built-in motor. The radio-controlled gasoline car used for drifting (photos of various samples can always be found in specialized publications) must have a very powerful motor so that the loads exerted on the model do not harm it. The complete set of a new product, as a rule, assumes that the toy is ready to ride without the need to purchase additional parts.
The main parts of a gasoline machine on a remote control
Parents do not always have the opportunity to buy an expensive toy for their child in a store. But if we talk about gasoline cars, then such products can be made independently. The design of these toys is in many ways similar to the structure of a standard car, so for many drivers the installation process will be clear.
To figure out how to do petrol machine on radio control, you should initially decide what parts will be needed for this work. So, the following structural parts are included in the package of a standard toy:
- shockproof body;
- gasoline engine of the desired power;
- strong wheels;
- chassis;
- a set of tools in the form of screwdrivers of different sizes.
Assembly features
Do-it-yourself gasoline radio-controlled cars are easy to make. After acquisition necessary materials should do the installation.
When attaching the front wheels to the frame, make sure they turn easily. It is best to choose rubber tires, since it is this material that has the highest quality grip on the roadway.
The body for the car can simply be purchased at the store, but many owners want to create a unique toy and come up with their own sketch of the body, which is subsequently made with the help of a specialist.
When choosing a radio unit for control, you should not save on it, since the quality of this part directly affects the convenience of controlling the vehicle.
Of course, one of the most important components of the machine is its engine. Gasoline samples require careful maintenance, but their power ratings are the highest.
Thus, it is safe to say that it is quite possible to assemble a radio-controlled car that operates with the help of fuel with your own hands, the main thing is to have the desire and the entire list of necessary parts for this.
The idea of creating a radio-controlled car appeared a long time ago. But the implementation of this idea in plastic and metal all the time interfered with some objective reasons. Firstly, the complete lack of experience in designing and building such a model (my hobby is aircraft modeling, and the arrangement and operation of some components of car models, the types of materials used, engines, batteries, the selection of a gearbox, etc. I imagined very vaguely). Secondly, there is a complete lack of literature on this topic. Thirdly, the lack of components (motors, gears, small diameter bearings, etc.). Surprisingly, the last problem was resolved quickly and easily. I work at a computer center, and the guys who know about my passion for modeling, somehow gave me some decommissioned printing mechanisms from printers and magnetic tape drives. From all these "pieces of iron" I managed to pick up several pairs of gears with different gear ratios, several high-quality steel shafts for the axles and small bearings. With literature, it was also quite simple: I reviewed all the magazines "Modelist-constructor" in my own room and in the library, and found several articles that were interesting to me. To begin with, it was decided to build the simplest model (without differential, without depreciation, without bearings, the engine - from the car door lock blocking mechanism, power supply - 8-10 batteries STs-0.55 A / h).
After a closer acquaintance with the catalog and models of TAMIYA, I was convinced that I did not make a model, but a toy. I wanted to build something more serious, I had to develop drawings again. Due to the rather high complexity of the components of branded models (almost all parts are cast and of complex configuration), a transmission containing many parts, low strength and wear resistance of mechanisms (please note that this is my subjective opinion), I don’t even design an all-wheel drive and front-wheel drive chassis was trying. The chassis from the Formula 1 model served as the prototype; the model was originally conceived for asphalt. Materials - sheet fiberglass, steel, duralumin, caprolactam, microporous rubber. I made the differential according to the description in the "Modeler-Constructor", the front suspension is similar to the original one, but made of fiberglass, the regulator is home-made, mechanical. During the operation, there were some nuances that did not suit me. Firstly, the complete insecurity of the wheels from the blows of rivals. I had to change the front suspension arms several times and the axle a couple of times rear axle. Secondly, a very dense arrangement of mechanisms under a small volume body, and, as a result, difficult maintenance and cleaning of components. Thirdly, the material for the differential parts was unsuccessfully chosen, and his work did not suit me.
Taking into account the above, as well as the accumulated experience in the creation and operation of such models, a slightly different version of the chassis was developed. The changes affected mainly the type of chassis (for a closed body), the layout of the nodes, some parts of the differential, the steering gear protection unit. It is quite difficult for me to give an objective assessment of my "work", but the chassis suits me. Compared to the TAMIYA models, the chassis is faster (however, the comparison was made visually, the front-wheel drive, all-wheel drive and my chassis were compared; the models were standard, without additional options). Parts and mechanisms are simpler than branded ones, in case of breakage they are easily restored or repaired.
Unfortunately, I did not have the opportunity to work with branded components (wheels, differential parts, etc.). But I think that by changing the dimensions and configuration of some parts of the front suspension and rear axle, it is quite possible to use standard wheels, differential, shock absorbers, etc., produced by firms. In addition, by changing the size of some parts, it is quite possible to change the chassis base and track, that is, to make the chassis fit any closed-type body. And finally, the chassis did not cost me $200 plus about the same for tuning (maybe the prices are lower somewhere, but we have such).
In this material, I in no way want to belittle the merits and achievements of manufacturers of model products, offend people who have the opportunity to buy expensive models and accessories for them or claim novelty of ideas. Almost all the materials were published in the magazine "Modeler-constructor", however, I sometimes used other materials, changed and finalized something, taking into account the details that I had. In general, what I did, I bring to your attention.
Brief technical characteristics
| Chassis type | back-drug |
| Base | 260 mm |
| Rear wheel width | 200 mm |
| Front wheel width | 188 mm |
| Ground clearance | 14 mm |
| Chassis weight | 700 g |
| Transmission type | single-stage open gearbox; K=1:4.2 or K=1:4.5 |
| engine's type | Mabuchi 540, Speed 600 different modifications |
| Front suspension | independent, depreciation - fiberglass plate |
| Rear suspension | dependent, depreciation - fiberglass plate and oil shock absorber-damper |
| Batteries | 7.2 Vx1400mA/h plus 4.8Vx260mA/h for on-board equipment |
Design description
Chassis base
Functionally, the chassis consists of three main components: chassis base, rear axle with damping system and front suspension with damping system and protective clutch. The base of the chassis is part 1, cut out of fiberglass 2.5 mm thick. On this part, sidewalls 3 and 4 are installed in the corresponding grooves, which form a box-pencil case for accommodating power batteries. After installing these parts, the joints are degreased and spilled with epoxy. On racks 5 (material - duralumin or aluminum alloy) the "second floor" of the chassis 2 is mounted, on which the steering machines, the speed controller, the attachment points of the oil shock absorber and the protective clutch of the steering machine are located. It should be noted that the grooves of part 2 must coincide with the corresponding spikes of the sidewalls 3 (these places are not glued!). This assembled design increases the strength of the battery box. Before rear wheels Brackets 6 are installed, which play the role of protective "lugs" and, in addition, body fastening pins are installed in them. In the front of the chassis, the body can be attached to similar pins installed in the area of the bumper bumper. The bumper configuration depends on the nose of the prototype and is not shown in the drawings. Also, the attachment points of the body pins are not shown. Their location depends on the contours of the hood of the prototype. Due to the fact that fiberglass is inferior in strength to carbon fiber, lightening windows are cut out only in the parts that form the box for the power battery.
Rear axle with damping system
The rear axle is made as a single easily removable unit, which increases the convenience of repair and maintenance work. The base of the bridge (see section A-A) is a fiberglass plate 3 2.5 mm thick (duralumin 2 mm thick can be used). The motor mount 1 and the left wheel strut 2, made of duralumin 6 mm thick, are attached to it with M3 screws. The upper frame of the rear axle 4 is screwed on top with the same screws. Bearing cups 5 (right) and 6 (left) are attached to the motor frame and the rack. The right one is machined from steel and brought to the dimensions shown in the drawing; the left glass is made of duralumin. Bearings-13x6x3,
closed type. Axis 20 connecting rear wheels, made of a steel bar with a diameter of 6 mm. In the place of installation of the left wheel in the axle, an M2.5 hole was made for the pin. In the hub of the left wheel 17, a groove 2.5 mm wide is propylene. When installing the wheel on the axle, the pin enters the cut of the hub and thus prevents the wheel from turning on the axle. The right wheel is connected to the driven gear 11 (the drawing on the left shows the gear that I found, on the right - it is after revision) through a ball friction clutch. It is formed by 6 balls with a diameter of 4.8 mm from the bearing located in the sockets of the cylindrical insert 10 (the cylindrical insert is connected to the gear with six M1.5 screws; holes for the screws are drilled around a circle with a diameter of 37 mm through 60o; a bronze plain bearing 12 is pressed into the insert) . On both sides, the coupling is compressed by hardened steel washers 9 (washer size 30x13x1.2). One of the washers is glued into the hub of the right wheel 13, the second is glued to the thrust disc 8. The thrust disc is mounted on the axle through a split bronze bushing 7. To absorb axial forces from the pressure of the balls, a thrust ball bearing 15 is used (made of a steel bar; after turning the groove under the balls of the part are hardened). The forces in the clutch are adjusted by tightening the nut with a nylon insert 19. To prevent axial displacements, a bushing 21 is installed on the axis 20, which is fixed on the axis with an M3 screw. The right wheel hub 13 and the left disc 16 are machined from caprolactam; two bronze plain bearings 14 are pressed into the right hub. Wheel tires are made of microporous rubber. To eliminate the axial play, a distance washer 18 is used.
The rear axle is hung on the chassis base through a fiberglass shock absorber plate 22 using three M3 screws. On the basis of the chassis, this part is fixed with an M4 screw and a clamping washer 23, which is screwed onto the rod 24. This rod is the axis of the friction damping assembly. The latter consists of disk-shaped friction washers 25 and springs. The friction force is regulated by moving the sleeve 27 along the axis, the fixation of which is carried out by the M3 screw. With the lower support 26, the spring rests on an additional spring bar 28, which is mounted on racks 29 on the base of the chassis 1.
To dampen vibrations that occur during suspension operation, a damping spring-oil shock absorber is installed. It is attached to part 2 using a duralumin bracket (Node I). With the upper frame of the rear axle 4, the shock absorber is connected by a ball joint (Node II).
Front suspension
The front suspension was originally simplified (section G-D), and consisted of the upper and lower bars 1 made of foil fiberglass, interconnected by racks 2 and attached to the base of the chassis 1 through rubber washers (Node III). The swivel arm consisted of parts 3, 4, 5, assembled into one unit by soldering. Depreciation was carried out with the help of a spring and by moving part 3 along axis 6. On axis 6, grooves were made for lock washers. Two bronze plain bearings 9 were pressed into the wheel disc 8.
But I didn’t like the work of such a suspension, and with the help of an article from the Modeler-Constructor magazine, another suspension was developed and manufactured (the details are shown in the drawing to the right of the red dashed line) The base is node 1, assembled from parts 1A, two parts 1B ( fiberglass) and duralumin parts 2. Parts 1B are glued to 1A, for greater strength they are tightened with M2 screws; item 2 is screwed with M2 screws. The lower suspension arm 3 consists of a base 3B and two sidewalls 3A (glass fiber 2 mm thick); after fitting and assembly, the joints are degreased and spilled with epoxy. The upper lever 4 consists of an earring 4A, a fork 4B and an axle 4B. Material for earrings and
forks - duralumin. The levers are attached to the base 1 with axles 15; in their places, the axles are fixed with lock washers 16. Using the same axle, a pivot post 5 is attached to the lower arm (a factory-made part, but it is quite possible to make it from duralumin, simplifying it a bit). The rack 5 is attached to the upper arm 4 with the help of a 4B fork and an M3 screw. Earring 4A is attached to node 1 as shown in view B (axis of rotation 15 is fixed with lock washers 16, PTFE bushings 14 are used to prevent axial displacement of the earring). The rotary lever 6 is a part made of duralumin, a steel axis 7 is inserted into it with some interference, after which a vertical hole with a diameter of 4 mm is drilled under the axis of rotation 8. The axis of rotation is fixed with a lock washer.
Wheel disks 9 are machined from caprolactam. Hubs 10 - made of duralumin, are attached to the disks with three M2.5 screws. Bearings - 13x6x3, closed version. Tires of wheels - from microporous rubber.
Depreciation is carried out using a plate 11 made of fiberglass, which is pressed against the base 1B with an M3 screw and a duralumin washer 12. The free ends of the plate rest on fluoroplastic bushings 13, which are dressed on the axis 15. This design allows you to adjust the stiffness of the suspension due to the thickness and width of the plate 11 quite over a wide range.
The servo clutch is the assembly shown in section B-B. In comparison with the node published in the "Modeler-Constructor", it has been slightly redone. The base is a steel axle 1, on which a bronze part 3 is mounted in tension. After that, a hole with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm is drilled in these parts, a pin is inserted and soldered. Thus, parts 1 and 3 are tightly connected. Rocking chair 4 is soldered to part 2, and the assembly is assembled as shown in the drawing. Axle 1 rotates in a needle bearing, which is installed in part 6 (which, in turn, is installed in the hole in base 1). The second bearing is a nylon bushing 5 installed in part 2. The depth of the hole with a diameter of 5.2 mm on part 5 must be selected so as to ensure a minimum play of the axis 1 of the protective sleeve, but at the same time ease of rotation of the unit. The clutch is driven by a duralumin rocker 7.
Conclusion
A few words about the model itself. The prototype was the Ferrari F40, so the base and width of the chassis, the diameter of the wheels were developed based on real sizes car, 1:10 scale. Body - fiberglass, glued to the blockhead. Control equipment - Graupner FM -314, steering machines - standard 508 (similar in size to HS 422 Hitec).
I tried to describe in as much detail as possible the course of my thoughts when developing and manufacturing the chassis. It is quite possible that some nodes could have been made differently, other materials or design solutions could have been used. I want to give a little advice to those who want to repeat this model. First you need to select components (gears, shock absorber, swing arms, etc.; it is quite possible that it will not be possible to select parts according to the dimensions indicated on the drawings) and materials for home-made parts. After that, you may have to make some adjustments to the drawings, and only then start manufacturing. If someone has any questions, suggestions, criticism - I will be glad to talk on the forum.
Greetings!
There are quite a lot of various radio-controlled (RC) equipment in the world, from very simple children's cars on the control panel to huge models of aircraft reaching the size of a car. In this article, I want to talk about a part of the RC world called car modeling, what classes of models are, what categories are divided into, where to start and so on.
Details under the cut. Beware, a lot of traffic.
Model types
Monsters (Monster Truck)
The most popular class of technology for entertainment.It is a model with high ground clearance, huge wheels, high center of gravity, respectively very unstable.
Able to overcome any type of surface, ideal for ski jumping, slides and just for fun in the country.
buggy
Usually four-wheel drive. Able to overcome any type of surface, while riding on densely packed soil will be the most optimal.It is this class that is most widely represented in competitions.
Short Course
It is a pickup truck with a short base and rear wheel drive.It has a great similarity (copy) with real cars. Designed for the same surface as the buggy, that is, rolled soil.
Truggy
Something between a buggy and a monster.It is characterized by the presence of large widely spaced wheels and low ground clearance. Accordingly, in this class, you can perfectly overcome various obstacles, jumps, uneven ground, while handling is worse than that of a buggy, but better than that of a monster.
An excellent compromise.
Crawlers
It is characterized by huge ground clearance, the same huge suspension travel, low speed.Designed exclusively for accurate and leisurely overcoming obstacles.
Drift
Exceptional road car.Designed, as the name implies, for drifting on asphalt.
Rally (rally)
Along with crawlers, a rather rare class of car.As a rule, all-wheel drive cars. Differ in copy. Designed for rolled soil.
Trophy
Differs in high copy number, full wire - often with continuous bridges, low speed, soft tenacious tires.Designed to slowly overcome a variety of obstacles in the form of puddles, mud, swamps.
For popular models, a huge amount of tuning is sold in the form of canisters, wheels, bodies, etc. to create an exact copy of real trophy cars.
Scale Models
Models vary in scale from micro (1:18) to huge 1:5 or 1:4 up to 1 meter long.Scale models from 1:18 to 1:12 are actually toys and do not participate in competitions, while they are not suitable as a gift for small children and are not intended for riding at home, as they are capable of speeds of 30-35 km / h.
The most interesting and popular scales are 1:10 and 1:8. It is in these classes that the main part of the competition and the greatest variety of models are held.
Models of scale 1:10 and 1:8 can reach 50 cm in length and are not intended for rides in yards and crowded places, since they can reach very high speeds (up to 117 km / h HPI Vorza), and coupled with a mass ( about 4-6 kg) can cause serious injury.
The largest 1:5 scale models have, in the vast majority, an engine internal combustion with a volume of 24-28 cm3 and actually repeat the design of real cars.
Engines
At the moment, car models have four types of engines:- Electric commutator motor. Electric motors of a completely standard design with a coil, brushes. It is characterized by low power, often poor reliability and is generally not interesting. Applicable on low cost small and micro scale models. For 1:18 scale models, it can reach speeds of 25 km/h.
- Electric brushless (valve) motor (BC). It appeared in RC relatively recently, noticeably pushing aside traditional models with internal combustion engines, since it produces similar power and, unlike internal combustion engines, is much easier to operate.
- Glow carburetor engine. Used in models from 1:12 to 1:8 scale. Refueled with fuel containing from 16% to 30% nitromethane. A very moody engine that needs fine tuning of the carburetor. Highly not recommended for beginners or those who do not like to tinker with technology. The engine is low-volume (several cubic centimeters), but at the same time it allows you to shoot several Horse power and reach 30,000 - 40,000 rpm.
- Gasoline internal combustion engines. Used in 1:5 scale models. Refuel with AI 92-95 gasoline. Engines are much less capricious than small displacement glow motors.
Prices
Prices for car models, unlike aircraft models, have their own clear framework. So prices for Chinese 1:18 models with brushed motors start at 3000 rubles (~80 usd). With a more powerful brushless motor, the price reaches 4500 rubles (~130usd). The price range for hobby models (not sports) of a more interesting scale (1:10, 1:8) varies from 10,000 rubles to 25,000 (300 - 700 usd). The most expensive are 1:5 scale models, prices can reach 40 - 70 thousand rubles (1200 - 2000 usd).Complete sets (delivery options)
There are two types of delivery models:- RTR - ready to run. This equipment means that the model is assembled and completely ready for races. However, it must be taken into account that the batteries Charger and so on may not be included. Usually they are included in the kit only for very budget devices. Also, if you buy a model with an internal combustion engine, you will definitely need to buy glow plugs, batteries, fuel, a thermometer, and so on.
- kit. Such a complete set means that for the final assembly of the model, in addition to batteries, chargers, etc., you will need an engine, equipment (remote control with receiver), wheels, an engine speed controller, and so on. Kits are designed for athletes and are not intended for beginners. Such kits are usually supplied in the maximum tuning and it is understood that the athlete already has all the additional body kit.
Hardware (appa)
One of the most important parts in the RC hobby is the equipment: remote control, receiver, telemetry. There are a large number of options on the market from very simple and budget options for 2-channel equipment for 15-20 bucks:
Up to a heaped 4-channel, with telemetry, a bunch of settings and other chips and a price of 600 usd:
The design of the car model on the example of my internal combustion engine truggy
General picture from the official site:
All wheel drive model. three differentials. Engine 4.6 cm3, 2.9 hp Two universal joints diverging from the center differential to the front and rear. The center differential has two disc brakes. The glow-type engine, which means that to start the engine, the spark plug must be heated with a special glow, and then the spark plug coil keeps the temperature itself.
Bottom deck:
The bottom deck is a 4.5 mm thick aluminum plate with holes for starting the motor using the starting table.
Front suspension design:
The design of the front suspension, in fact, is not much inferior to real cars in complexity and greatly surpasses them in terms of reliability, so falls from a height of 2 meters onto the ground with a dozen coups, as a rule, for a car model pass without any breakdowns.
Which model to buy?
The question is complex and, as in the case of computers, you must first decide on the budget and tasks. So for example, if you just want to drive models, jump from trampolines and just have fun, then your choice is a monster - for example HPI Savage. If you are interested in large machines of the 5th scale, then you can look towards the HPI Baja 5T. On a number of forums there are special topics for beginners dedicated to the choice of technology - links at the bottom of the article.Brands (manufacturers)
At the moment, there are a large number of manufacturers on the market. They can be divided into three categories:- Purebred Chinese: Iron Track, Himoto, BSD Racing, VRX Racing, HSP. Favorably differ in price, while the reliability and reasonableness of the design may suffer. You can buy as the first model in order to understand whether you like it or not, to gain experience in repair and operation.
- RTR models from US, UK and Japan manufacturers: HPI, KYOSHO, Team Associated, HOTBODIES, Traxxas, Maverick, Team Losi. On average, "according to the hospital" they have greater reliability and reasonable design than the Chinese at a slightly higher price. In the case of manufacturers from middle group it is necessary to consider each model separately, since each brand has both high-quality successful models and not high-quality ones
- Kits from Xrax, KYOSHO, Durango, Team Associated. Uncompromising models for athletes in full tuning. One whale alone can cost more than the same model in the RTR version, and do not forget that you need to buy an app, an engine, wheels, a speed controller, and so on. With an average cost of an RTR model of 20 thousand rubles (600 usd), a prepared version for competitions based on a whale can cost up to 60 - 70 thousand (2000 - 2300 usd).
Competitions
For fans of the RC hobby, competitions are held both at the regional level and all-Russian. Competitions usually have strict regulations and are generally divided into the following classes:- Buggy 1:10 4wd electro
- Buggy 1:8 4wd electro
- Buggy 1:10 4wd nitro
- Buggy 1:8 4wd nitro
- Hobby unlim 1:8
If you decide that you want to participate in competitions, think carefully about whether you need it, because like any sport, RC racing requires a lot of time, money, knowledge and patience. As I mentioned above, preparing a new model from scratch for a whale-based competition can cost 60 - 70 thousand rubles. Used can be found for 25-35 thousand.
Nitro or electro
Before the advent of BC systems, internal combustion engines ruled the world of car modeling, since brushed motors have much less power. With the advent of brushless (valve) electric motors, the scales swung in the opposite direction, since electric motors with a power comparable to an internal combustion engine have a number of advantages, such as silence, reliability, no need to set up, run in, no need to start, maintenance is an order of magnitude easier and so on. At the same time, there is a disadvantage in the form of the need to charge the batteries and swelling the batteries at sub-zero temperatures.From myself, I can say that when I was choosing a serious model, the choice was on the ICE version, which I later repeatedly regretted, since maintenance, tuning, etc. take a lot of time, but you can ride while there is fuel, and the frantic roar of the engine, coupled with a cloud of smoke does not leave indifferent any passer-by.
How to start?
In order to understand whether you like it or not, you will decide on the model and in general, I advise you to come and look at the competitions, rides. The people are usually responsive and sociable, they will help and prompt, because they themselves once started this way. It is also worth asking a question on the RC hobby forums.In St. Petersburg, you can come and chat on the race track called "Under the Bridge":
Buying a radio-controlled device today is not a problem. And a car, and a train, and a helicopter, and a quadcopter. But it is much more interesting to try to create a radio-controlled car with your own hands. We will provide you with two detailed instructions.
Model #1: What will we need?
To create this radio-controlled model you will need:
- A model car (you can even take an ordinary Chinese one from the market).
- ARU auto.
- Solenoid for opening the doors of a VAZ car, battery 2400 A / h, 12 V.
- A piece of rubber.
- Radiator.
- Electrical measuring instruments.
- Soldering iron, solder to it, as well as plumbing tools.
- Reducer.
- Collector engine (for example, from a toy helicopter).
Model No. 1: instructions for creating
And now let's start creating a radio-controlled car with our own hands:
Model No. 2: necessary components
To create a car you will need:
- Automobile model.
- Spare parts from an unnecessary collection machine, printer (gears, traction, iron drives).
- Copper tubes (sold in hardware stores).
- Soldering iron.
- Autoenamel.
- Bolts.
- Necessary electronics.
- Battery.
Model #2: Creating a Device
We begin to make a radio-controlled car with our own hands:
In conclusion, we present you one of the drawings for radio controlled models machines - receiver circuit.
A homemade radio-controlled car is a reality. Of course, making it from scratch will not work - develop your experience for more simple models.
Any modeler should understand how his model works. This is simply necessary, since it will periodically need to be maintained, adjusted and repaired. In this article, we will look at what parts it consists of. Components of the car:
- Chassis
- Suspension
- Power point
- Energy source
- Transmission
- Servo drives
- wheels
- Body
- Radio control equipment
Chassis
The chassis is the basis of any radio-controlled car. As a rule, this is a metal or plastic plate to which all other elements are attached. Chassis in the form of a metal plate is used on buggies and truggies, plastic and carbon on road models. Monster and crawler models usually have the most complex chassis in the form of one or more intricately shaped parts. Often, the word "chassis" also means the chassis of the model complete with suspension and transmission.
Plastic chassis type "bath"
Suspension
The suspension of the model provides a smooth ride of the car when passing bumps, constant contact of the wheels with the road to improve handling, and for off-road models, it also absorbs shock when landing after jumps. The suspension of most models uses oil-filled shock absorbers mounted vertically, one for each wheel. In simple models, friction shock absorbers can be used. Some monsters have two shock absorbers for each wheel.
Power point
The role of the power plant of the model model can be performed by an electric motor or an internal combustion engine (ICE). Power point electric model consists of motor and speed controller. If there are usually no questions about the purpose of the motor, then the function of the speed controller is not always immediately clear. In short, the controller is intermediate between the battery and the motor, providing the correct voltage to the motor contacts so that it rotates at the required speed. Electric motors can be divided into two types: collector and brushless. The collector engine in car modeling can be considered somewhat outdated, but power plants based on it is much cheaper and used quite often. The disadvantage of this type of motor is the presence of brushes, which wear out rather quickly and the motors require constant maintenance (or replacement) during intensive use. Brushless motors are more expensive, powerful, and virtually maintenance-free. The main external difference between a brushless motor and a collector motor is that it has three wires instead of two.
Internal combustion engines used in car models can be divided into incandescent and gasoline. Most models are equipped with incandescent internal combustion engines, they operate on special fuel. Not on petrol! The working volume of the glow engine usually varies from 2 to 6 cubic centimeters. Often the volume is indicated in cubic inches, for example: an engine with a volume of 0.21 cubic inches (it can also be called "twenty-first", naming only hundredths of the volume in inches) \u003d 3.44 cm 3.
Gasoline engines are used on large scale models, this is due to the fact that the minimum volume of a gasoline engine is about 20 cm 3, it is quite large and heavy. Typically, engines with a volume of 20-30 cm 3 are used.
Gasoline engines develop significantly less power per cubic centimeter of their volume, but have more torque and are much more economical.
Most car engines are single cylinder.
Glow engine 0.21 in 3
Gasoline engine 23 cm3
Energy source
Electric cars run on batteries (not batteries like toys). The most commonly used battery types are NiMH and LiPo. The voltage from which the car works is usually from 7.4 to 22.2 volts. When choosing a battery, you should take into account the characteristics of the speed controller installed on the model, the type of battery and its voltage will depend on it.
Special fuel for glow engines consists of methanol, nitromethane and oil. Extreme care must be taken when handling this fuel - methyl alcohol is extremely poisonous! The cost of such fuel is quite high, about 200-500 rubles per liter. The standard tank of the model, with a volume of 120-150 cm 3, is consumed in about 10 minutes (depending on the engine size, there are real gluttons).
Just like incandescent, model gasoline engines two-stroke, it means that they must be filled with a mixture of gasoline and special oil for two-stroke engines. The path behind him lies in any petrol equipment store.
Transmission
The transmission transmits power from the engine to the wheels. To transmit torque, gears, cardans and belts are used. Most models have four-wheel drive (4WD), although rear-wheel drive (2WD) models are also quite common. Differentials are installed between the wheels on the same axle, and often also a center differential.
Servo drives
To turn the wheels when taxiing, as well as to control the gas and brakes on models with internal combustion engines, servos are used (in the common people - "servos", in English "servo"). Servos are small boxes with an electric motor and gear that can turn their output shaft to a given angle and hold it in that position.
Servo internals
wheels
Unlike the wheels of a real car, the wheels of car models are not inflated with air, its role is played by soft inner inserts. When choosing wheels for a sports car, you should be guided only by their characteristics, and not by any means. appearance. Beautiful wheels with chrome-plated spokes and a powerful tread can only be afforded by monsters and drift models. Models designed for racing are content with solid discs without spokes and tires with a special small tread.
Body
The body of the vast majority of car models is made of Lexan - a thin, durable and flexible sheet of transparent plastic. This body is very light and perfectly protects the model in collisions and coups. Lexan bodywork is painted with special paints from the inside. The Lexan body is mounted on special racks and secured with clips. Unlike a real car, such a body is not an integral part of the model and can be easily replaced with another one. Therefore, it is almost pointless to choose a model only on the body or say "I bought a Porsche 911 model." With intensive use, a model can change several bodies in its life, gradually becoming unusable.
Radio control equipment
And, finally, the model becomes radio-controlled only when radio control equipment or simply "equipment" is installed on it. The equipment consists of two parts - transmitter and receiver. Model cars are usually controlled by a pistol-type transmitter, the trigger of which controls acceleration and braking, and steering wheel- model rotation. On the market there is a huge selection of the most diverse equipment costing from a couple of tens to several hundred dollars. Recently, almost all new equipment operates at a frequency of 2.4 GHz, while many models can be launched simultaneously in one place without interfering with each other.
Conclusion
If you are buying a ready-to-run model (RTR, Ready to Run, Ready to Race), then you will only need to purchase batteries or fuel. And professional models are often supplied as a kit for self assembly(Kit), at least it will also require equipment and a power plant.