In my last diary (3 months ago) I promised to post a video with the buggy brought to mind) But as soon as I took it ...
I realized that the revision will be difficult and meaningless!
Decided that it is better given the flaws of the machine to assemble a completely new, not like the last!
And then it started!
To begin with, I made drawings of new levers. This is the front left and right - 
This is what they look like on the model. By the way, I forgot to say that I made all the levers from metal corners 25x25 
And the frame is made of aluminum profile 50 by 20 MM and 60 cm long 
Following the front suspension, I moved on to making the rear. Made a drawing from the beginning 
The right and left lower arm are the same. Here they are on the model 
In these photos, the suspension with the fists installed
They are made of a pipe 37 mm in diameter, the bearings entered them without difficulty, and in order for the bearings not to fall out of them, I cut the m4 internal thread in the fist for better fixation of the bearing! 
This is a rear fist from the front one, it differs in that they have different attachments to the levers! The front fists are attached to the levers on the ball, which are made of a hex bolt to which I gave a spherical shape 
They twist into the fist itself from above and below 
And here it is finished 
Of course, I also cleaned it from the "snot" and painted it. And right now, the photos from which it will become clear how I made such ball- 
Next to the bolt lies a "cracker"; it acts as a gasket; the ball itself is located in it 
The cracker itself was made from a container of antifreeze. 8 squares were cut into 4 of them holes were made for the bolt. This is how you need to insert them into the lever and pull) 
And then heat up the lever itself and tighten the nuts. As I finished this procedure, I pulled out the sugar along with the bolt and dripped oil there!
It seems to be talking about the suspension. Right now the photo - which shows how the parts for the suspension were made (levers, mounts for levers and fists) 
These are the rear lower control arms. 
The mounts for the levers are simply sawn off from a corner of 25x25 by 10 cm. The front and rear mounts are the same. And this is how the upper levers look, they must be made shorter than the lower ones, because if this is not done, the wheels will not stand straight.
OF COURSE, NOT COMPLETELY UNDERSTANDING. But then there will be photos during assembly, this lever will be clearly visible on them.
This I figured out at what distance to put the mounts. 
I started the assembly from the front as I wanted to do front-wheel drive.
Following the front, I moved to the back. 
These are rear suspension parts. Next to lower control arms lie the top of which I spoke. 
And this is what the finished back looks like: 
In order for the fasteners not to walk in different directions, they should be welded 
I removed all the shoals of welding when I was sanding before painting.
Well, this is how the chassis looks in the assembled state)) 
In the photo it looks like a limousine))) but it is not.
It's the helmsman's turn 
and began preparing parts already for the drive 
Bones made by myself 
They are made from a nail)) 300 x8 mm after they were made they were hardened 
This is how they looked after hardening.
When everything was ready, I started the assembly 
Then the "haemorrhoids" began - when I installed everything, when turning the wheels, either they did not turn or the bones fell out. I was soaring with her but could not understand what was the matter
After suffering for 2 days, I decided to do instead of the front Rear drive
There was nothing difficult in this, I just rearranged the stars from front to back 
After I changed the drive everything went like clockwork)) 
The engine was fixed in three places, two of which are visible in the photo
This is one mount in the crankcase for oil and two on the opposite side.
After changing the drive, I had a place to install my servo with a force of 33 kg)) 
It's time to install the brake and throttle servos 
Here is the mechanism responsible for stopping the model 
Well, one of the most important details is the tank, it is located behind the model 
Here you can see how the front suspension works in order for the suspension to be more rigid and similar to the rear - I tightened the springs
Rear-
old steering wheel
Ball work -
This is how she rides
) The video is short because when she drove into a snowdrift and began to slip, she bent the axle on which the cups stand (((I THOUGHT I THOUGHT AND UNDERSTOOD THAT IT WILL BE HARD WITHOUT DIFF
And I thought to buy this one, I think he can handle it !!
I think it will be interesting who inspired me to do this))) really four-wheel drive)) And thanks to his advice, I brought it to mind!!
While I am saving money for it, I decided to write an article. Since there will be no changes after installing the diff in the design of the car !!
If something is not clear or you have questions - do not hesitate to ask.
Thanks to everyone who read my article to the end!!
Any modeler should understand how his model works. This is simply necessary, since it will periodically need to be maintained, adjusted and repaired. In this article, we will look at what parts it consists of. Components of the car:
- Chassis
- Suspension
- Power point
- Energy source
- Transmission
- Servo drives
- wheels
- Body
- Radio control equipment
Chassis
Chassis - the basis of any radio controlled car. As a rule, this is a metal or plastic plate to which all other elements are attached. Chassis in the form of a metal plate is used on buggies and truggies, plastic and carbon on road models. Monster and crawler models usually have the most complex chassis in the form of one or more intricately shaped parts. Often, the word "chassis" also means the chassis of the model complete with suspension and transmission.
Plastic chassis type "bath"
Suspension
The suspension of the model provides a smooth ride of the car when passing bumps, constant contact of the wheels with the road to improve handling, and for off-road models, it also absorbs shock when landing after jumps. The suspension of most models uses oil-filled shock absorbers mounted vertically, one for each wheel. IN simple models friction dampers can be used. Some monsters have two shock absorbers for each wheel.
Power point
The role of the power plant of the model model can be performed by an electric motor or an engine internal combustion(ICE). Power point electric model consists of motor and speed controller. If there are usually no questions about the purpose of the motor, then the function of the speed controller is not always immediately clear. In short, the controller is intermediate between the battery and the motor, providing the correct voltage to the motor contacts so that it rotates at the required speed. Electric motors can be divided into two types: collector and brushless. The collector engine in car modeling can be considered somewhat outdated, but power plants based on it is much cheaper and used quite often. The disadvantage of this type of motor is the presence of brushes, which wear out rather quickly and the motors require constant maintenance (or replacement) during intensive use. Brushless motors are more expensive, powerful, and virtually maintenance-free. The main external difference between a brushless motor and a collector motor is that it has three wires instead of two.
Internal combustion engines used in car models can be divided into incandescent and gasoline. Most models are equipped with incandescent internal combustion engines, they operate on special fuel. Not on petrol! The working volume of the glow engine usually varies from 2 to 6 cubic centimeters. Often the volume is indicated in cubic inches, for example: an engine with a volume of 0.21 cubic inches (it can also be called "twenty-first", naming only hundredths of the volume in inches) \u003d 3.44 cm 3.
Gasoline engines are used on large scale models, this is due to the fact that the minimum volume of a gasoline engine is about 20 cm 3, it is quite large and heavy. Typically, engines with a volume of 20-30 cm 3 are used.
Gasoline engines develop significantly less power per cubic centimeter of their volume, but have more torque and are much more economical.
Most car engines are single cylinder.
Glow engine 0.21 in 3
Gasoline engine 23 cm3
Energy source
Electric cars run on batteries (not batteries like toys). The most commonly used battery types are NiMH and LiPo. The voltage from which the car works is usually from 7.4 to 22.2 volts. When choosing a battery, you should take into account the characteristics of the speed controller installed on the model, the type of battery and its voltage will depend on it.
Special fuel for glow engines consists of methanol, nitromethane and oil. Extreme care must be taken when handling this fuel - methyl alcohol is extremely poisonous! The cost of such fuel is quite high, about 200-500 rubles per liter. The standard tank of the model, with a volume of 120-150 cm 3, is consumed in about 10 minutes (depending on the engine size, there are real gluttons).
Just like incandescent, two-stroke model gasoline engines, it means that they must be filled with a mixture of gasoline and special oil for two-stroke engines. The path behind him lies in any petrol equipment store.
Transmission
The transmission transmits power from the engine to the wheels. To transmit torque, gears, cardans and belts are used. Most models have four-wheel drive (4WD), although rear-wheel drive (2WD) models are also quite common. Differentials are installed between the wheels on the same axle, and often also a center differential.
Servo drives
To turn the wheels when taxiing, as well as to control the gas and brakes on models with internal combustion engines, servos are used (in the common people - "servos", in English "servo"). Servos are small boxes with an electric motor and gear that can turn their output shaft to a given angle and hold it in that position.
Servo internals
wheels
Unlike the wheels of a real car, the wheels of car models are not inflated with air, its role is played by soft inner inserts. When choosing wheels for a sports car, you should be guided only by their characteristics, and not by any means. appearance. Beautiful wheels with chrome-plated spokes and a powerful tread can only be afforded by monsters and drift models. Models designed for racing are content with solid discs without spokes and tires with a special small tread.
Body
The body of the vast majority of car models is made of Lexan - a thin, durable and flexible sheet of transparent plastic. This body is very light and perfectly protects the model in collisions and coups. Lexan bodywork is painted with special paints from the inside. The Lexan body is mounted on special racks and secured with clips. Unlike a real car, such a body is not an integral part of the model and can be easily replaced with another one. Therefore, it is almost pointless to choose a model only on the body or say "I bought a Porsche 911 model." With intensive use, a model can change several bodies in its life, gradually becoming unusable.
Radio control equipment
And, finally, the model becomes radio-controlled only when radio control equipment or simply "equipment" is installed on it. The equipment consists of two parts - transmitter and receiver. Model cars are usually controlled by a pistol-type transmitter, the trigger of which controls acceleration and braking, and wheel- model rotation. On the market there is a huge selection of the most diverse equipment costing from a couple of tens to several hundred dollars. Recently, almost all new equipment operates at a frequency of 2.4 GHz, while many models can be launched simultaneously in one place without interfering with each other.
Conclusion
If you are buying a ready-to-run model (RTR, Ready to Run, Ready to Race), then you will only need to purchase batteries or fuel. And professional models are often supplied as a kit for self assembly(Kit), at least it will also require equipment and a power plant.
Becoming a happy owner of a powerful and reliable toy controlled from a distance is a dream not only for many children, but also for some parents. Today, manufacturers are ready to offer a variety of entertainment that can surprise even the most sophisticated young consumers. Radio-controlled equipment can be a wonderful gift, and if properly maintained, it can last quite a long time.
Among a large number of models, radio-controlled gasoline cars deserve special attention, since the power and reliability indicators of these products are among the highest. About the features of these popular toys, their technical specifications and types further and will be discussed.
What is a remote control petrol machine?
First of all, it is worth saying that such a product is almost complete, but only a reduced copy of the usual vehicle. These cars also run on gasoline, while the maximum speeds are really impressive: some models easily accelerate to 80 km / h. However, it would be useful to note the fact that such mechanisms periodically require repair, just like ordinary cars, so the process of "driving" should be approached with all seriousness.
Of course, the use of such toys indoors is not recommended, since their full potential can only be appreciated in open areas, for example, on paved roads.
The main characteristics of petrol cars on radio control
There are many varieties of these models: these are cars for road racing, and buggies, and samples designed exclusively for drifting, which will be discussed a little later. This or that radio-controlled machine with a gasoline engine has its own characteristics.
So, a distinctive feature of these models is the remote control. For radio-controlled samples, its maximum radius of interaction with the machine is usually about 150 m.
Another unique detail is Gas engine, the power of which can be different. The scope of its operation depends on what type of motor is installed in a particular model.
If we compare radio-controlled gasoline cars in size, then we can safely distinguish both children's reduced products and large toys that are more suitable for adult lovers of such equipment.
What should determine the choice of a gasoline radio-controlled car?
In order for the purchased equipment to bring only joy, you should first carefully study the entire range of products and stop at the most suitable one. When choosing a typewriter for a child, it is necessary to be guided primarily by his age, but you should also think about how he will use the toy. If the main requirement for the product is speed, then it is best to choose a road model, and an off-road model is ideal for overcoming obstacles.
The younger the child, the easier it should be to manage. It is better to refuse to purchase highly sensitive devices so that the owner of the machine does not experience problems. At the same time, you should pay attention to the size of the product, since some radio-controlled gasoline cars are quite voluminous, which can be very inconvenient for a small child. Large models - perfect option for adults.
Proper operation of a gasoline machine on a remote control
In order for such a toy to last as long as possible, you need to responsibly approach its content. Do not forget that it is very problematic for a child to cope with such a technique, so it is better if there is always an adult nearby. Of course, all repair and maintenance work (changing fuel, oil, lubricating parts, etc.) should also be carried out by parents, not only because of the risk of equipment breakdown, but also because harmful fuel vapors are dangerous for the child's body.
Many radio-controlled gasoline cars are sold unassembled, so it is extremely important to follow the attached instructions when assembling such products. In addition, safety rules exclude any play near fire sources and open water.
Characteristics and advantages of radio-controlled cars for drifting
As mentioned earlier, fuel-powered equipment powered by a remote control may differ depending on its purpose. So, radio-controlled gasoline cars for drifting are very popular among consumers. Both adults and children like these models, and their difference from ordinary high-speed toys lies in the following technical characteristics:
- such gasoline cars are equipped with special shock absorbers with drift springs;
- the tires of these products do not have a tread pattern and are more rigid than conventional models;
- as a rule, the basis of the body of such a toy is shockproof plastic, as well as a durable bumper that protects equipment from impacts;
- the special design of the suspension allows you to perform various technical elements.
How not to make a mistake when choosing a gas drift car?
RC toy cars designed specifically for this purpose should not be bought for a very young child, since the minimum age of the owner should be 3 years.
In addition, it should be remembered that there are no completely universal models. This means that when purchasing a toy car for drifting, you should not expect any other properties from it, such as high speeds or high cross-country ability.
One more important point is a type of built-in motor. The radio-controlled gasoline car used for drifting (photos of various samples can always be found in specialized publications) must have a very powerful motor so that the loads exerted on the model do not harm it. The complete set of a new product, as a rule, assumes that the toy is ready to ride without the need to purchase additional parts.
The main parts of a gasoline machine on a remote control
Parents do not always have the opportunity to buy an expensive toy for their child in a store. But if we talk about gasoline cars, then such products can be made independently. The device of these toys in many ways resembles the structure standard car, so for many drivers the installation process will be clear.
To figure out how to do petrol machine on radio control, you should initially decide what parts will be needed for this work. So, the following structural parts are included in the package of a standard toy:
- shockproof body;
- gasoline engine of the desired power;
- strong wheels;
- chassis;
- a set of tools in the form of screwdrivers of different sizes.
Assembly Features
Do-it-yourself gasoline radio-controlled cars are easy to make. After acquisition necessary materials should do the installation.
When attaching the front wheels to the frame, make sure they turn easily. It is best to choose rubber tires, since it is this material that has the highest quality grip on the roadway.
The body for the car can simply be purchased at the store, but many owners want to create a unique toy and come up with their own sketch of the body, which is subsequently made with the help of a specialist.
When choosing a radio unit for control, you should not save on it, since the quality of this part directly affects the convenience of controlling the vehicle.
Of course, one of the most important components of the machine is its engine. Gasoline samples require careful maintenance, but their power ratings are the highest.
Thus, it is safe to say that it is quite possible to assemble a radio-controlled car that operates with the help of fuel with your own hands, the main thing is to have the desire and the entire list of necessary parts for this.
Buying a radio-controlled device today is not a problem. And a car, and a train, and a helicopter, and a quadcopter. But it is much more interesting to try to create a radio-controlled car with your own hands. We will provide you with two detailed instructions.
Model #1: What will we need?
To create this radio-controlled model you will need:
- A model car (you can even take an ordinary Chinese one from the market).
- ARU auto.
- Solenoid for opening the doors of a VAZ car, battery 2400 A / h, 12 V.
- A piece of rubber.
- Radiator.
- Electrical measuring instruments.
- Soldering iron, solder to it, as well as plumbing tools.
- Reducer.
- Collector engine (for example, from a toy helicopter).
Model No. 1: instructions for creating
And now let's start creating a radio-controlled car with our own hands:
Model No. 2: necessary components
To create a car you will need:
- Automobile model.
- Spare parts from an unnecessary collection machine, printer (gears, traction, iron drives).
- Copper tubes (sold in hardware stores).
- Soldering iron.
- Autoenamel.
- Bolts.
- Necessary electronics.
- Battery.
Model #2: Creating a Device
We begin to make a radio-controlled car with our own hands:
In conclusion, we present to you one of the drawings for radio-controlled car models - a receiver diagram.
Homemade Radio-controlled car- this is reality. Of course, making it from scratch will not work - develop your experience on simpler models.
I got this from my nephew radio-controlled car toy. The range is only about 15 meters, the weak electronic part, i.e. the front wheels barely turn and the drive pulls very weakly.
With nothing to do, I decided not to pump this radio-controlled car a lot. Digging through the bins, I found a 40MHz receiver and two servos, one HS-311 in working order and one powerful digital MG946R with a burnt out engine. I adapted the HS-311 to the steering wheel in exchange for the native, frail design, and the MG946R took only the electronic control board. I connected servos for the place of the engine traction motor radio-controlled cars, and soldered a 4.7 kOhm tuning resistor in place of the servo variable.
Setting up a radio-controlled car
The converted radio-controlled toy, when the transmitter is first turned on, starts spinning the wheels, in order to stop them, you need to:
- Connect gas servo to channel 2 (PB channel)
- Configure if you need a channel reverse
- Trimmer to stop the rotation of the wheels
Next, we rebuild the expansions (set 100% for gas), expenses and trim the steering wheel. For power, I used 5 cans of NICD batteries, reworked radio-controlled car came out powerful and nimble. It was not without problems, the native traction engine turned out to be rather weak, it gets very hot and stinks, I think he will not have to live long. But in general, the alteration was a success, now the machine drives from under the remote control