Alexander Ryazantsev, owner of Nissan-Laurel (N-Laurel), MY 1994, V-2, automatic, gasoline, rear-wheel drive
I've owned this car for six months and I'm very happy with it.
pros Nissan Laurel (N-Laurel) :
- Fuel consumption is economical: 15l - city, 11 - highway.
- The salon inside is amazing, rich velor, chrome door handles inside and out.
- A convenient electronic oven, trunk and gas tank flap buttons are not located below the seat, but on the door handle, which is more convenient.
- The car confidently holds the road, handling "on the top five."
- Thanks to this engine, the car accelerates confidently and sharply up to 120 km / h.
- I like the five-speed automatic.
- It goes smoothly, does not sway or tremble.
- The suspension is not too hard, but you can’t call it very soft either.
- Convenient cupholders that “escape” from the front panel, a bright, large climate control screen and its control buttons are also very conveniently located.
- The handbrake, though foot, but the unlocking mechanism is damn convenient.
Minuses Nissan Laurel (N-Laurel) :
- Behind the three of us already closely.
- The headlights are plastic and dim quickly.
- The machine is cold, i.e. it is cool in winter - the stove is clearly not enough.
- Sometimes there is a problem with parking.
Expert opinion: The engine is unpretentious and reliable!
Sergey Shashkov, director of car service "Boomer"
- The engine is unpretentious and quite reliable, and, most likely, a distributor. But do not allow it to overheat and lower the oil level. There is a problem in narrow channels.
- Watch the candles so that they do not “sew”.
- It is recommended to periodically carry out maintenance of the engine: replacement of the timing belt and oil seals on the windshield. If the seals “run”, then the frontal part will be damp. Then there is a possibility of oil getting on the timing belt - the belt loses its properties and requires a mandatory replacement of the timing.
- IN rear wheel drive- gearbox with LCD function, thanks to which the machine performs well on ice.
- Hodovka is quite difficult, so pay attention to ball, silent blocks on the levers, steering tips, rods, wheel bearings.
- Weakness- racks, but they are being repaired.
- Always check the oil in the gearbox.
- Pay attention to the cardan, crosses, anthers on the drives.
NISSAN SKYLINE - LAUREL R34 - C35 with RB20 DE NEO L / B engine - "Loss of power, bad dynamics
07.12.2008
NISSAN SKYLINE - LAUREL R34 - C35
with motor RB20 DE NEO L/B –
"LOSS OF POWER, BAD DYNAMICS"
The increase in the car park in developed countries always puts the environmental issue as a priority. The tightening of exhaust toxicity standards is one of the reasons forcing automakers to produce new engines, and car owners to update their vehicles. To do this, there are various insurance mechanisms, including the purchase of obsolete vehicles, additional payment and the purchase of modern ones that meet new toxicity standards. This is the development of the scientific industry, engineering, technology, economics, etc…
Undoubtedly, the constant race to raise standards pursued by the government of developed countries is also an attempt to limit the import of foreign manufacturers, especially from developing countries, whose cars, due to lack of technology, cannot fit into certain standards (including “crash tests” ), but are successfully sold in other developing countries.
This approach is understandable - the government cares about preserving jobs, economic stability, protects its market from low-quality goods (and not only cars), but at the same time, fuel in this country corresponds to the highest class at all gas stations, roads are called roads and EVERYONE observes the speed limit without exceptions. It is not entirely clear when there are no roads, instead of gasoline - ... .., the rules are not written, but EURO 4 for the elite was introduced as a pass at customs, although no one seeks to reach it, and it is impossible. Simply “to distinguish between financial flows” – this is possible.
Some of the leading companies, anticipating the tightening of toxicity standards, invest a lot of money in advance in research and development, developing technologies that will help them survive and compete in the future.
One such TOYOTA, the LEARN BURN engine series was an intermediate step
transition from stoichiometric to lean combustion engines. If we distinguish them by the A / F ratio, then this is:
1.A/F=14.7
2. A/F ≈ 24
3. A/F ≈ 40
In the second and third cases, for different models, you can put the sign "approximately" instead of "equal to".
The second case includes LEARN BURN motors, and the third is D4 and all the analogies of NEO Di, FSI, etc.
Such “transitional” motors of this period of group 2 include the motor RB20DE NEO L/B(Learn Burn) which NISSAN produced from approximately 1998 to 2002, until the NEO Di series came to replace it.
What is cardinal in this motor, unlike its predecessor RB20E and contemporaries RB25DE NEO, that it received the L / B prefix? The main ones are combustion chambers, timing systems and phases, installation of a higher energy ignition system, introduction of mechanical shutters SWIRL for lean mode. Introduced deep Feedback according to DC and one KV rotation sensor has been added. All this made it possible to “remove” 155 forces from a two-liter inline six, meeting the toxicity standards of 2000 for Japan. Many may ask - why so little? But here the question is not the number of “horses”, but how to meet the toxicity of the exhaust. After all, all declared cars with their declared power must fit into these norms - otherwise they cannot move on public roads on their own - only on a tow truck. Please - there are tracks, brought the car, paid for the emissions of the overpowered engine, annealed the rubber - back to the trailer and to the garage, "tune" further. But on the streets you can breathe. In general, there are many ways to improve the ecology of the streets (but all of them involve quality gasoline to start).
Here is such an alteration of the motor required to change the intake manifold - it became composite - to accommodate the dampers SWIRL , stopping the access of the fuel-air mixture to one of the intake valves. (this engine has 2 intake valves per cylinder).
Since the injector is in front of the intake valve, the air-fuel mixture is formed in the intake manifold, but the injector is in front of one of the intake valves, so blocking one channel increases the flow rate and improves mixture formation. In fact, the damper blocks only air for one of the intake channels, since the mixture formation is carried out in the second channel, where the nozzle is located. The dampers operate discretely - or are closed for Idling(low loads) or fully open. A malfunction of this system leads to a sharp decrease in engine power. But the main thing is that with the introduction of such a collector, NISSAN got one problem that is not typical for the engines of this series. Since the car uses separate “grounds” and ground points for power and signal circuits, in this engine the signal ground of the sensors was always located on the intake manifold near the coolant temperature sensor on the ECU (outlet to the upper radiator pipe). The manifold is always bolted to the block and this connection has never caused problems on the RB series. It is noteworthy that NISSAN, in order to save money, used three-wire DCs, in which the signal "ground" was the sensor housing. All this led to a change in the DC signal relative to the specified one, namely, the appearance of a threshold.
Consider Figure 1, which comments on the appearance of code such as DTC P0131 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 (FRONT) - LEAN SHIFT MONITORING
On the left picture ( rice. 1-1) - everything is fine, the DC signal exceeds the RICH rich mixture level, the threshold of which the ECU has set to 0.6 volts (for reference, the lean mixture threshold is 0.35 volts)
If the DC voltage is higher than 0.6 volts - " rich mixture”, less than 0.35 - “poor”. Such a hysteresis loop allows you to accurately distinguish between work in transient modes, as well as determine the inactivity of the DC. Since the DC signal is constantly in the lean mixture area, it means there is a problem, the solution of which includes checking DC, injectors, air leakage, fuel pressure, etc. In addition, due to savings on the 4th wire of the DC, its signal "ground" is determined by the quality of the contact in the threaded connection of both the DC with the exhaust manifold and the exhaust manifold itself. Why so - all because of the separation of power and signal "ground". If a bad contact occurs in the DC thread (resistance increases), then a certain part of the DC signal falls on this resistance, lowering its value at a constant level. This causes the waveform to shift down - Rice. 1-2(the amplitude of the signal does not change), but the positive half-wave ceases to overcome the upper threshold of the trigger hysteresis in the ECU. The decision on the leadership is to “re-tighten” the recreation center. So to speak - " this not always simply" not only because of accessibility, but also because of the impossibility of unscrewing the recreation center without damaging it (dents on the case are unacceptable).
Another reason for P0131- poor contact in the signal "mass" - it is also recommended to re-tighten it. Installing a 4-wire DC solves some of the problems - the signal does not depend on the state of the exhaust manifold, but you have to lay an additional wire.
All this is very good if your car diagnostics complies with EURO OBD, which has codes for such cases. And if you have a car with a 14 pin connector, the ECU of which does not contain such codes - but in the DATA STREAM mode, you graphically determined that the DC signal level was not sufficient, you overtightened the signal ground and DC bolts - but it did not help, then for this motor you need to “ground ” the signal ground point itself. To do this, it is enough to connect two points with a wire with a cross section of at least 3 mm².
Photo 1 Grounding point of the signal part of electrical equipment
Photo 2 The point on the intake manifold to which the signal ground must be connected.
How to check the need for such an operation without a scanner that displays the real date - turn on the ammeter between these two points. If the current exceeds 0.2 A, then it is necessary to modify the design.
What are the customer complaints?
- « power loss after engine warm-up», - This is the main reason for the appeal. After reaching a temperature of 60 degrees, the fuel correction is significantly taken into account according to the readings of the DC, and the owners complained that after warming up in motion, “I threw the gas - I pressed it, and the car seemed to be hitched with a trailer”
- “RPMs go up but no acceleration etc.
Another one of the ratings:- “very sluggish acceleration to 3000 rpm, then nothing like that.”
From the messages in the forums, most of them changed spark plugs five times from simple to iridium APEXi 7 (with photo reports on the work done), all the sensors in a circle (starting from MAF, etc., fuel pump, flushing injectors who like ...).
Some even managed to sort out automatic transmissions, and I personally met with such. Surprise knew no bounds. It is understandable - there are no errors (and they will not be on this motor), but the problem is unsolvable. It’s just that on the RB25 the manifold is one-piece, but here on the SWIRL damper spacer there are gaskets on which mass resistance increases over time due to oxidation . In the DATA STREAM mode, with a graphical display of the O2 B1S1 signal and connecting the points on the collectors, the signal immediately changes its form from NG to OK (Fig. 1) and the car gets full acceleration dynamics, and the owner gets a surprise with one wire.
GADZHIEV A.O.© Legion-Avtodata
Gadzhiev Arid Omarovich, Moscow, Ermakova Grove st. 7A, territory 14 TMP, www.nissan-A-service.ru tel. +79265256300, e-mail: [email protected], Union of Automobile Diagnostics
This advice is dedicated to all owners of Nissan Laurel cars - here are systematized excerpts from the forum on all the issues of operation discussed - problems and their solutions, consumables, spare parts, etc.
In our city, and even around the country, Lavrikov is already running quite a lot ... That is why our colleague VictorZ created on the forum very timely.
The topic has grown and it is no longer easy for newcomers to this topic to find information on their problems ...
To help all owners of laurels, I had the idea to summarize everything that was said in the topic on the forum, lay out all the necessary and Interesting Facts about our cars in one place and replenish as needed.
Information is conditionally divided into topics:
Engine
-Electrics:
About ignition: http://wiki.japancar.ru/index.php/Electronic_ignition_advance
candles according to one data platinum, according to others iridium. y (Cactus grower) PFR5G-11
NGK iridium, if you order in Toyota - 630 rubles a candle and wait, you can find around the city from 400 rubles per candle. buy better in large trusted stores. I recently took iridium-platinum NGK BKR5EIX-11P (Reg, Kent) (slightly better than just iridium ones) with my catalog characteristics, it cost 500 rubles a candle. Changed myself. (Reg)
coils
I'm talking about coils. I have already studied them inside and out.
the main purpose of this device is to convert 12V to 20000V (approximately). Physically, the device is a primary winding with a small number of turns, which is connected to the transistor coil control board, which, in turn, is connected to the car's computer. The secondary winding has several tens of times more turns and is physically connected to the primary winding only by an electromagnetic field, and it is connected directly to the spark plugs. Those. the principle of operation of a simple transformer (recall physics for the 10th grade)
The oscilloscope determines the malfunction of the transistor in the coil - it gives the wrong waveform. The main cause of transistor failure is overheating. With such a malfunction of the coil, the "Check" light is constantly on. People in Moscow repair such coils by replacing the transistor. Repair price - 1000 rubles per coil.
Kent1 wrote:
they will just ring the coils and determine which one is not working ...
This method determines the breakdown in the primary winding of the coil. Stupidly the resistance between the contacts is measured and according to the table what parameters should be. "Check" can light up and go out. Imho repair is not possible. (see further)
A breakdown in the secondary winding of the coil is the most harmful. With such a breakdown, the car does not always troit, power is also not always lost, the "Check" light does not light up at all, etc. The high-voltage spark either goes where it is needed - into the candle, then onto the body of the bar on which the coils are attached, flashing the plastic shell of the coil. Such a malfunction is detected only by visual inspection of the coil - on the case on the plastic there is such a thin line of whitened plastic, and most likely on the bend or sidewall of the case. IMHO repair is impossible, although people tried to repair such coils, judging by the nizmo and autodata forums, by pouring epoxy on the coil body and thoroughly cleaning the coil installation site from dust. IMHO the effect will be short-lived. As a goal - to sell the car can help.
The reason for breakdowns of the windings, both primary and secondary, is time and water. My car started troiting after they poured me a kersher through the radiator grill in the direction of the engine. Wash RB, VQ engines, etc. as they understand it at the Khabarovsk car washes, it’s generally impossible. If you want to buy a car with RB and similar Nissan engines and see that the engines sparkle like a cat's balls, it's worth considering.
My coils have just the third type of malfunction. I saw it when I changed the spark plugs. As soon as I put new coils, I can show those who wish appearance my old coils with traces of breakdown.
Kent1
10230 rubles 3 pieces with a friend's VIP card and a 10% discount. I ordered it at the JapanCar store, yes, yes, this is the one where Yurka (wd) suffered with the racks on the avenir, only the office on Kim-Yu-Chen. Walked for 7 days, nothing was said about the price increase
-cooling system
thermostat original 600r station wagon for ind. I changed it myself - time - about an hour (Reg)
-Mechanics
Replacement fuel filter
how to tighten belts
now I looked, there is a completely different boyda closed with plastic, and in order to tighten the belt, you only need one wrench.
the first figure shows the generator (where to look for it)
(blue indicates tension belt)
Everything to horror just slightly loosen the screw marked in red, and then turn (clockwise) the screw marked in blue to increase the tension, then tighten the screw and that's it.
Most importantly, turn off the engine!
-Release
I also had a burned-out resonator, I just closed it with cold welding 2 * 130r, and, as they say, I solved the problem. (DimaS)
the drive seal was found on the industrial station wagon for 200r (DimaS)
valve cover gasket (left) 650r (DimaS)
oil seal from the crankshaft (suspected) 250r (DimaS)
Machine
According to the manual - Nissan Matic D Fluid, and the most interesting thing is that in some places they write that it is compatible with D-III, and in others - that it is not. Whom to believe - x.z. (Cactus grower)
Replacing a 4vd machine - 15100 rubles is the work + the machine itself with a razdatka (DimaS)
Khodovka
-racks
KYB racks (new) at 2000r apiece rear (VictorZ)
the front said 2300 are in Avtorem st. Industrial 8Atel. 27-58-14 (VictorZ)
Self-REPLACEMENT rear pillars (VictorZ)
- pads
Nishinbo pads, sort of like Japanese. price 1200 r (Zlodei)
Replacement:
Salon, dashboard
for those who have xanavi button description:
It controls the climate control system (including the conder)
it has a built-in CD player that blunts from the cold and does not read discs, but it only reads pirated (store) discs, it just does not perceive SDR and SDRV.
If the disc is inserted and it is not readable, a yellow rectangle with some inscriptions in Hebrew is lit in the lower left corner .. which changes like go nah ..
if there is no disc, then on the same rectangle the inscriptions in Hebrew are accompanied by the letters CD, which, as I understand it, means NO CD or simply there is no disc.
So next:
by buttons:
1 - open to eject disc
2 - enable SD
* control of LED functions is carried out on the touch screen
3 - 4 navigation control, it doesn’t work for me and the buttons don’t show themselves either
5 - multifunctional dezhopstick vidml works in tandem with navigation and switches channels on TV a little more
The right side is all dedicated to climate control
6 - temperature controller (the latter is displayed on the screen when the stove mode is active)
7 - on / off the air conditioner with an indicator light on the conder is working
8 - the automatic mode of the stove maintains the selected temperature level, controls the speed and blower nozzles
* Manual control of speed and air nozzles is carried out by pressing the corresponding buttons on the touch screen
** in automatic mode the stove fan turns on only when the minimum engine temperature is reached (very convenient in winter)
9, 10 - apparently there is just manual control, but the picture does not seem
11 - turn off the climate control (electricity or conder) or when the stove mode is off, with one press it displays the screen for controlling it
12 - air supply only for windshield, when the button is pressed, the air conditioner is automatically activated so that it can be turned off by pressing the button 7
damper control
13 - outside air (light on)
14 - internal air (light on)
if both lights are off, the damper is 50% open
15- turn on tv
*** the sound, like with SD, goes through the cassette and is regulated on it or on the steering wheel
16 - screen settings, you can adjust the screen brightness in day and night mode, some settings are activated only when the dimensions are on
17 - yes x .. he knows what kind of nozzles can headphones.
I also want to upset you on TV inputs - NO, there are only tma wiring outgoing and incoming.
One person said that just put an MP3 radio instead of a regular big crap, that's what I think about this: you can put everything but you have to give up regular TV (by the way, it catches the sound of channel 5), CD and steering wheel controls, and the rest should work. (DimaS)
Removing the dashboard in order to replace the bulbs with dashboard and hours: (VictorZ)
bodywork
front door limit switch 100r (DimaS)
Bulbs: Medallist before 2000 4wd (DimaS) base H4 700r
on ClubS (Reg) base H1
polishing (Reg)
And this is the FAQ, or, as it is called in Russia, FAK for Nissan Laurel. Here are answers to frequently asked questions from the category “no matter how much you don’t answer them, but they will still ask” :-) Most of the information came here from various forums on Nissan vehicles Laurel, including from ours:
- Which timing drive in RB engines - a belt or a chain?
RB engines use a timing belt drive, no chains! - What is NEO?
NEO is an acronym for Nissan Ecological Oriented. RB engines were produced under this brand latest generation become more environmentally friendly. Contrary to popular misconception, the NEO designation has nothing to do with the direct fuel injection system that Russian motorists are so afraid of :-). - How can I find out if my RB is NEO or not?
If you have a Laurel in the 35th body, then your engine is NEO. Well, in general, on these engines, right on the decorative cover, it is written in large letters: “NEO” :-). - Where on the RB engine is its number?
The number is stamped on a special area on the block with right side(as viewed from the front of the engine) exhaust manifold, closer to the junction of the engine with the box. - What threatens the RB engine with a broken timing belt?
Unfortunately, it won't come without consequences. Bent valves and guides. - Which timing belt is better to replace and what is its resource?
Definitely, it is best to put the original Nissan belt. Its resource is 100,000 km. They are everywhere and are not so expensive. - What needs to be changed with timing belt?
Together with the timing belt, two rollers are usually changed - tension and bypass. Change all other "nearby parts" at your discretion, depending on their condition. That is, no other devices (for example, a pump) need to be changed without fail! - The engine is “troit” (“four”, “five”, etc.) - what is the reason?
In most cases - a malfunction of the ignition coils! At the very least, they are worth paying attention to in the first place. Coils are considered a “sore spot”: there are a lot of them (each candle has its own coil), and they are expensive :-). - In summer, when the air conditioner is on (especially in traffic jams), the engine starts to warm up, and the air conditioner turns off. From what?
The air conditioner turns off automatically just because the engine temperature begins to increase (thus, the cunning Japanese automation tries to reduce the load on the engine). But overheating of the engine can occur due to the contamination of the radiators with insects, fluff, etc. rubbish (unless, of course, the viscous coupling and cooling system are working). Radiators must be periodically cleaned (blowed, washed). These issues are discussed by laurel breeders and. - What candles to put in RB?
"Native" candles - platinum, manufactured by NGK, marking PFR5G-11. In general, you can put simple candles, and iridium, and platinum-iridium - who is good for what and who does not mind the money :-). - The RB engine eats a lot of gasoline - is it like that for everyone, or just me?
Yes, RB engines are known for their appetite :-) If your consumption in the summer is about 14 — 15 l / 100 km, then this is practically “standard” :-). That is, you should not sound the alarm and take any urgent measures - the situation is unlikely to improve. - The arrow on the fuel level indicator in the gas tank goes down too quickly, is it really such a frantic consumption?
Don't worry :-) Unfortunately, this problem is inherent in most Laurels. Almost all owners note the fact that the fuel level sensor in the gas tank cannot be trusted - it is lying shamelessly! - What kind of oil to pour in Belarus?
Only good :-) There is no definite answer. Recommended by the manufacturer - 5W-30. But in practice, laurel growers pour different oils - both by viscosity (5W-30, 5W-40, 5W-50, 10W-40) and by base (synthetics, semi-synthetics), and by manufacturer. And, it seems, everyone is happy :-). - How much oil can fit in a Laurel engine?
Approximately 4.2 liters. In any case, buy a five-liter canister, a four-liter one will not be enough! - What kind of liquid to pour into automatic box?
Theoretically, the box will run on any Dexron III grade fluid. But, the best option than the original Nissan ATF Matic Fluid D, you can hardly think of it! - How much fluid do you need to replace?
The total volume of slurry in the box is about 8 liters. However, if you change by the usual "drain method", then you can change no more than 4 liters. - Gear shifting in automatic transmission (especially from 1st to 2nd) is noticeable, a slight push is felt. This is fine?
Yes, almost everyone has a slight push when shifting gears in an automatic transmission. Apparently, this is the norm. Some argue that with a slightly high level of slurry in the automatic transmission, such shocks are felt weaker. But this is their personal opinion. - Why do we need Power and Snow modes, the power button of which is located next to the automatic transmission lever? Should the operation indicators of these modes be lit?
The indicators on the button itself should be lit. If they don’t glow, and, moreover, you don’t see the difference in the modes (read the logic of operation below), then remove the trim around the automatic transmission lever, perhaps you just don’t have a button chip connected.
Now about the logic of work:
"Power" mode - shifting to a higher gear occurs at higher speeds (than in normal mode, specific speeds depend on the intensity of pressing the accelerator pedal); thus, the maximum power and torque of the engine, faster acceleration, etc. are selected.
Snow mode - shifting to a higher gear occurs at lower revs (again, than in normal mode, specific revs depend on the intensity of pressing the accelerator pedal); this eliminates the slipping of the drive wheels, caused by an excessively large torque applied to the drive wheels. Also in the "Snow" mode, the movement of the car starts from the second gear, for the same reasons (an attempt to reduce wheel slip). Designed mainly for driving in winter, on snowy / slippery roads. You can also use this mode to save fuel, but do not forget that in this mode the car starts to "stupid" (this is just facilitated by starting from second gear (which is quite difficult in itself) and shifting to a higher gear when low revs crankshaft(maximum power is not produced)).
And here are more patterns (templates) of gear shifting at different positions of the automatic transmission mode button at different degrees of pressing the accelerator pedal (in all graphs, the lever is in the “D” position, “Overdrive” is on) - When starting the engine, the fan is very noisy - is this normal?
Yes, it is normal. The fan starts very noisy, but it lasts just a few seconds, after which it goes into normal operation. - The fan runs all the time - does everyone have it?
Yes, our Laurels do not have an electric fan, but a fan with a viscous coupling. It rotates at different speeds, but is constantly in motion. - Is it possible to supply gas-cylinder equipment for the RB engine?
Can! With good equipment of the latest generation (with distributed injection), the engine works perfectly, even in power it does not lose at all. The only “but”: such equipment is quite expensive, so think about whether you need it specifically? - Where is the Consult diagnostic connector in the Laurel C35 and what is it for?
The Consalt diagnostic connector is located below the steering wheel, slightly to the left of the hood release lever. It is hidden under the lid, and falls out if this lid is pryed with something. From the name it is clear that the connector is necessary for car diagnostics. In particular, the VCons diagnostic computer can be connected to it. In addition, the connector is used for self-diagnosis. - Where is the factory antenna located on the Laurel C35?
The standard antenna is located at the top and bottom rear window in the form of glued strips. Outwardly, they look like glass heating strips, but they don’t heat a damn thing :-) The antenna amplifier (such a special metal box :-)) is hidden under the decorative trim of the left rear pillar. - Where are the fuses in Laurel and which are responsible for what?
There are two blocks with fuses and relays in Laurels: one is under the hood, the second is in the cabin, in the area of \u200b\u200bthe driver's right leg. In the engine compartment, the affiliation of the fuses and relays is indicated in English, there you can still somehow figure it out :-) In the cabin block, all the designations are in Japanese, which means you can figure out where they are without the help of a dick. In general, look here: Fuses in the cabin C33 (RB20E), Fuses in the cabin C35 (RB20DE Neo) - Where are the cabin filters located on the Laurel C35?
cabin filters always hiding from us in the same place - behind the glove box. They are easy enough to change! - The "slip" indicator on the dashboard lights up while driving - what does this mean?
The presence of this indicator is a privilege of all-wheel drive Laurels. While driving, the Slip notifies you of a slip that is occurring at that moment or an incipient skid. - What standard speakers are installed in the rear shelf of the 35th body and how to get to them?
The standard speakers in the rear shelf are round Clarion, 16 cm in size. To get to them, you need to remove the entire rear sofa (unscrew only four bolts - two by 12 and two by 10), then decorative trims on rear racks(they just gently unfasten around the perimeter, because they are held exclusively on clips), then - a brake light, and then - a regular plastic-woolen :-) shelf (also unfastened). The speakers themselves are bolted to the metal shelf with four 10 bolts. - What should I do if the RB engine does not start after washing?
This happens. There is only one reason - during the washing process, water enters different hidden places and remains there. Look for it first here:- Trambler. You take off the slider and the cover under it. There is an optical system there, it needs to be blown through.
- Candle wells. They often accumulate water.
- Injector connectors. They are oriented upwards, and the water does not even evaporate there.
- How to change the brushes on the wipers if they do not rise ?!
Firstly, opening the hood cover does not solve the problem - the wipers still will not rise :-). Secondly, the easiest solution is to turn on the wipers and then turn off the ignition at the moment when the wipers are at the top. Done - now you can change the brushes. - What settings rims on Laurel?
PSD - 5x114.3, CO - 66.1 mm, reach - 40 mm, width - 15x6JJ or 16x7JJ - What values regular tires And pressure in them?
For 15" wheels: 195/65 R15 or 205/60 R15 91S or 91H; pressure 2.0 atm. in all.
For 16-inch wheels: dimension 205/55 R16 89V, pressure 2.0 atm. in the front, 2.2 atm. in the rear.
Japanese tire rating plate
Another plate (from the manual on the C35) - What is a front brace, what does it look like and why is it needed?
The front strut is a metal stick :), installed under the hood between the strut mounts. This is how the spacers on the 35 Lavra look like:
Example #1, Example #2
Attention - spacers for all-wheel drive and rear-wheel drive Laurel differ in fastenings(various hole patterns)!
In a quote from one of the automotive sites (forgive the author, it is not known from which one) the purpose of this item is explained: “Installing a spacer is an indispensable element of perfomance tuning. All without exception sports cars equipped with spacer. A car with a strut has better handling and easier cornering. After installing the strut, the car reacts more precisely and faster to turning the steering wheel. Improved handling is achieved by "linking" the upper parts of the suspension struts, which in the standard state are connected only from below by a stabilizer roll stability, and remain relatively “free” from above. Therefore, when cornering, the suspension struts “walk” a little, as a result of which the reactions of the car to turning the steering wheel become less clear and more “smeared”. The strut, on the other hand, allows you to correct this drawback of the standard suspension. The strut is also an important element. passive safety, increasing the rigidity of the body and creating an additional obstacle to the deformation of the engine shield during a frontal impact.
Installation of spacers on Laurel is actively discussed on our forum.
The section continues to grow!