Front gear axle UAZ. Bridges on the UAZ

Without ground clearance

The military knows a lot of things that civilians don't even think about. For example, what should be in a soldier's bedside table, what is the size of footcloths and, of course, how should a commander's car be arranged. It is to them that we owe the fact that the UAZ 469 received a rather rare solution in its class - axles with wheel gears.

Today, UAZs with gear or, as they often say, "military" bridges available to everyone. This pleasure costs an average of "extra" 5 thousand rubles. Theoretically, all the main "pros" and "cons" have already been outlined in the magazine (ZR, 1999, No. 10), but we decided to believe the theory with our own experience, armed with measuring instruments and towing cables.

test subjects

Measure seven times, believe once

Before us is a couple of quite peaceful, judging by the color of the "white night" paint, cars UAZ 31514-012 and UAZ 31514-032. The last one, which gear bridges, higher than the congener by 55 mm. Experimental cars in the simplest configuration: no external hitch, no power steering, new engines and synchronizers in first and second gears. All amenities - a metal roof and improved seats. However, that's not what we're talking about today. To begin with, we will load the cars in accordance with the instructions, check the tire pressure and measure the ground clearance. In fairness, we note that the difference between cars with "collective farm" and "military" bridges turned out to be slightly less than in the documentation. However, gear axles should be complete with "toothy" Y-192 tires, and on both machines we have not so "evil" Y-245-1, which are 14 mm smaller in outer diameter. It turns out that 65-70 mm actually remained from 80 mm of the declared advantage of gear axles. A little more than a matchbox! It would seem, why fence the garden? But let's not rush.

UAZ on collective farm bridges and UAZ on military bridges, from left to right

On the road of disappointment

Subjective impressions in brief are as follows: UAZ with "military" bridges rides more fun, but holds the road worse and slows down. The devices confirmed this, which once again pleased: at least now there is no metaphysics. The fact that a machine with geared axles is faster is due to increased gear ratio(5.38 vs 4.63). And therefore, not too powerful, but a high-torque motor allows you to drive in direct gear already from 30 km / h, while a UAZ with conventional bridges pulls only from 40. Max speed cars, oddly enough, almost the same - a little over 100 km / h. Mediocre handling is also quite understandable: with wheel gears, the positive running-in shoulder is greater. This also causes a tendency to yaw when braking - the steering wheel must be held firmly.

Where the infantry will not pass

On a good road, UAZ causes few positive emotions, but the worse the coverage, the more respect for this car. When deep ruts loomed ahead, it was time to warm up by turning on the hubs. The first stage did not reveal a clear leader. Both cars easily overcame the site, capable of causing genuine horror among the owners of passenger cars, and froze in front of a huge puddle. Do not turn left or right, there is a forest all around. Deep? Yes, where knee-deep, and where... deeper. There, in muddy water, there are ruts and an impressive ridge left by a tractor. But this obstacle turned out to be too tough for both UAZs. Except that "military" gear I rode more confidently and almost did not soak the steps. Other adventures followed: sandy and clay ruts, climbs, ditches, but even here the skill and experience of the drivers played a much greater role than the differences in cars.

But those were flowers. In the lowland, on the edge of the field, we finally found what we were looking for - a dirt road trodden by tractors. However, even here, roaring the engine and desperately turning the wheels, the "collective farmer" got out to a solid place. The “military” reacted to this obstacle quite calmly: they drove almost without slipping. Here is the difference in a matchbox! And yet, in order to finally determine "who is hu", the cars must be "landed". Where to plant? Of course, in the field. Thankfully, it's very close. But first, let's evaluate whether the obstacle is worthy.

Of the two scouts on foot, one came back, which was lighter. The second, heavier, was captured by the clay, and the rest had to work with a shovel to save his shoes. A discussion flared up: if we "plant", what will we drag? Fortunately, turned up MTZ tractor with a long rope.

You can start. Bets are accepted! No one will go further than 20 meters ... So, "collective farmer" and "military" - who wins? The first one went! Here are those times! Already lying on his belly, but still crawling! Gives back, creeps again ... Really ..? Not! All sailed. Well, at least the doors can be opened. Who is there today in the "rescuers"? Get out to hook the cable, let's look at the second!

While the tractor is pulling the “seeded No. 1” onto solid ground, let's measure the result: 61 meters have been covered. The result is much more optimistic than forecasts.

Now it's the turn of the "military": ten meters, twenty, sixty, eighty... Is that all? No, it's still crawling. It seems that it will pass - another fifty meters, and it's already easier there ... Fans rejoice: participant number 2 does without the help of a tractor. Convincing victory gear axles!

When things go up...

This is good. Unless, of course, it's not about preference. Our "military" and "collective farmer" do not go uphill - they go. To begin with, a 10% rise, fourth gear, an entry speed of 80 km / h. The "collective farmer" barely climbed, the "military" only slowed down to 65 km / h. The same from a speed of 70 km / h. Here, UAZ with conventional bridges has only a third chance.

Finally, the "military" performed an almost circus trick: he simply took a 50% rise without acceleration and without switching on low gear! It’s better for a “collective farmer” not to even try: it’s risky to slide down from the middle of a 50% slope - the tires barely hold on wet concrete. Everything is simple here - turn on the lowered one and go.

Where is the gasoline flowing?

It happens that through a poorly wrapped drain plug straight to the ground. But usually still in the carburetor. How are our expenses? We know that "good", but more precisely?
"Short" couple gear axles plus "extra" gears and bearings - you will have to throw an average of a liter and a half on the highway, although, for example, at 60 km / h there is almost no difference, and at 40 in direct gear a car with "military" bridges even more economical.

MORAL SATISFACTION

Why buy UAZs? Certainly not to roll on the streets of the capital. All the advantages of these machines are manifested where the roads end. Here, even a minimal advantage in cross-country ability can be decisive. Drive or wield a jack and a shovel - the choice is obvious here. The most important advantage of a car with geared axles is the ability to confidently move along a track laid by heavy trucks: this allows increased ground clearance.

Rarely, except for crazy jeepers, will a serious alteration of the UAZ for the sake of increasing cross-country ability, although the simplicity of the design allows you to do whatever your heart desires with it. If we are talking about the operation of a "near-serial" machine, the design of gear axles requires more attention (which is worth checking the oil level in six gear housings instead of two), but with proper care and the absence of factory defects, they will live no less, if not more than simple ones. It is almost impossible to collapse the axle shaft or CV joint in "military" bridges, but if this happens, it will be much more difficult to fix.

Given the specifics of the operation of UAZs, axles with wheel gears will be a valuable tool not only for the military.

Anatoly FOMIN, Anatoly KARPENKOV
Photo by Vladimir KNYAZEV
Magazine "Behind the wheel"

The topic about which bridges are better for UAZ has probably been frayed more than once. Some are for civilians, some are for military bridges on the UAZ. Let's try to understand a little what's what. Of course, UAZbuka will help us. There is enough information there. You can collect a small collage 🙂

Civil bridges on UAZ

The device of UAZ bridges.

Two types of drive axles are used on UAZ vehicles: drive axles with a single-stage final drive - are installed on UAZ-31512 utility vehicles and UAZ-3741, UAZ-3303, UAZ-3962 and UAZ-2206 wagon-mounted vehicles; U-shaped drive axles with final drive - are installed on UAZ-3151 utility vehicles.

Installation of U-shaped drive axles (completely front and rear) on UAZ-31512 vehicles is possible with simultaneous installation cardan shafts car UAZ-3151. The installation of U-shaped axles with a final drive on a family of cars of a wagon layout requires a significant refinement of the design of bridges, bipods, bipod traction, vehicle suspension, the manufacture of cardan shafts shortened by 10 mm, and cannot be performed outside the factory (without his recommendations).

Drive axles with single-stage final drive. The middle part of the front and rear axles has the same device (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1 Rear axle UAZ scheme
1 - safety valve; 2 - differential bearing; 3 - shims; 4 - rear bearing of the drive gear (single-row roller bearing); 5 - adjusting ring; 6 - oil ring; 7 - nut; 8 - a package of shims; 9 - drive gear; 10 - front bearing of the drive gear (conical roller double row); 11 - thrust washer; 12 - driven gear;

Crankcase - cast detachable in a vertical plane. Half shaft casings are pressed into both halves of the crankcase and additionally secured with electric rivets. The final drive gear is mounted on two bearings - a double tapered roller bearing 10 located in the crankcase neck, and a cylindrical roller bearing 4 located in the crankcase tide. Between the end face of the outer ring of the double conical bearing and the crankcase, an adjusting ring 5 of the pinion position is installed. The double tapered bearing is adjusted with a pack of 8 shims. The driven gear is attached to the satellite box flange with special bolts. The differential is conical with four satellites. The satellite box is detachable, consists of two halves connected by bolts. The gears of the differential axle shafts have replaceable thrust washers 11. The differential is mounted on two tapered roller bearings 2, shims are installed between the ends of the satellite box and the inner rings of the differential bearings. An oil scraper ring 6 is installed between the drive gear flange and the double tapered bearing.

Safety valves 1 are located on the left casings of the axle shafts, which prevent an increase in pressure in the crankcases of the axles.

Pins with flanges for fastening brake shields are butt welded to the outer ends of the housings of the rear axle shafts (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2 Rear wheel hub.
1 - brake drum;
2 - wheel disk;
3 - cuff;
4 - lock washer;
5 - counter-nut;
6 - half shaft
7 - trunnion;
8 - gasket;
9 - bearing;
10 - hub;

Wheel hubs front and rear axles are the same (see Fig. 2). On UAZ-31512 and UAZ-3151 vehicles, the wheel hubs are not interchangeable. Bearings and parts of their fastening are interchangeable. The hubs of the UAZ-31512 car are installed on cars of the wagon layout. Each hub is mounted on two identical tapered bearings 9. The outer rings of the bearings are pressed into the hubs and are kept from axial movements by thrust rings. The inner rings of the bearings are freely mounted on the journal. The bearings are tightened with two nuts and locked with a lock washer 4 installed between the nuts. Between the inner ring of the outer bearing and the nut, there is a thrust washer with a protrusion included in the groove on the trunnion.

To prevent leakage of lubricant from the hub and ingress of dust, dirt and water into it, reinforced rubber cuffs 3 with assembled springs are installed from the inner end. A thrust washer is installed between the cuff and the inner bearing to prevent damage to the working edge of the cuff when the hub is removed.

The outer ends of the housings of the semi-axes of the front axles end with flanges, to which ball bearings 3 are bolted (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3 Stub axle front axle car UAZ 31512
1 - pivot pin lever; 2 - axle housing; 3 - rubber cuff in a metal casing; 4 - gaskets; 5 - ball bearing; 6 - body of the pivot pin; 7 - & nbsp; support washer; 8 - kingpin pad; 9 - kingpin; 10 - oiler press; 11 - locking pin; 12 - trunnion; 13 - wheel hub; 14 - leading flange; 15 - wheel off clutch; 16 - clutch bolt; 17 - retainer ball; 18 - protective cap; 19 - kingpin bushing; 20 - gaskets; 21 - the inner ring of the stuffing box; 22 - ring-partition; 23 - outer ring; 24 - rubber cuff; 25 - outer sealing felt ring; 26 - thrust washers; 27 - adjusting bolt limiting the rotation of the wheel; 28 - stop-limiter for turning the wheel; I - right rotary fist; II - left knuckle; III - the hubs of the front kotes are disabled; a - signal groove;

On the ball bearings on the pivots 9 there are housings 6 pivot pins, to the ends of which pins 12 and brake shields are bolted. Inside the ball bearings there are hinges of equal angular velocities, at the outer ends of which devices are installed that make it possible to connect or disconnect, if necessary, the shafts with the front wheel hubs.

"Military" UAZ bridges

Drive axles with final drives. The middle part of the drive axles with final drives differs from the axles described above by the smaller dimensions of the differential and the cantilever installation of the drive gear of the final drive on two tapered roller bearings 5 and 7 (Fig. 4).

Rice. 4 Rear axle of UAZ-3151
1 - crankcase cover 2 - differential bearing 3, 13 and 49 - shims 4 and 23 - gaskets; 5 and 7 pinion bearings, 6 - adjusting ring, 8 and 42 - cuffs, 9 - flange. 10 - nut, 11 - mud deflector. 12 - support washer, 14 - spacer sleeve, 15 - adjusting ring for the position of the drive gear, 16 - drive gear, 17 - satellite, 18 and 57 - axle shafts; 19 - final drive housing; 20 and 29 - oil deflectors, 21 - ball bearing, 22 and 26 - circlips, 24 - final drive housing cover, 25 - roller bearing, 27 - brake shield, 28 - brake drum, 30 - wheel bolt, 31 - trunnion , 32 - hub bearing, 33 - gasket, 34 - lock washer, 35 - drive flange, 36 - nut and locknut of the hub bearings, 37 - bearing thrust washer, 38 - sleeve; 39 - final drive driven shaft, 40 - bearing thrust rings, 41 - gaskets; 43 - driven shaft bearing, 44 - final drive driven gear, 45 - driven shaft bearing mounting nut, 46 and 50 - drain plugs, 47 - final drive pinion gear, 48 and 56 - satellite boxes, 51 - crankcase, 52 - washer half shaft gears, 53 - half shaft gear, 54 - pinion axle, 55 - final drive driven gear

An adjusting ring 15 of the drive gear is installed between the end face of the drive gear and the inner ring of the large bearing, and a spacer sleeve 14, an adjusting ring 6 and shims 13 are installed between the inner rings of the bearings. The drive gear bearings are tightened with the nut 10 of the flange.

Final drives of the rear drive axle are located in the crankcases, which are pressed with necks onto the outer ends of the axle shaft casings and fixed with electric rivets. The drive gear 47 is mounted on the splined end of the axle shaft 48 between the ball 21 and roller 25 bearings. The ball bearing is fixed with a retaining ring 22 in the final drive housing. An oil deflector 20 is located between the crankcase and the ball bearing. The roller bearing is installed in a removable housing, which is attached to the crankcase tide with two bolts. The inner ring of the roller bearing is fixed on the axle shaft with a retaining ring 26.

The driven gear 44 of the final drive is centered on the shoulder of the driven shaft 39 and is bolted to its flange. The driven shaft rests on the bushing 38 and the roller bearing 43, which is fixed on the shaft with a nut 45, which is loosened after being tightened into the groove of the shaft. The driven shafts of the right final drives and the bearing fastening nuts have a left-hand thread. For distinction, nuts with left-hand threads have an annular groove, and the driven shafts have a blind hole dia. 3 mm at the end of the shaft. The driven shafts of the rear final drives are connected to the wheel hubs by splined flanges 35.

The final drives of the UAZ front drive axle are located in pivot pins (Fig. 5 bridge diagram)

Rice. 5 Stub axle of the front axle of the UAZ-3151 car
1 - rubber cuff in a metal casing, 2 - ball bearing, 3 - constant velocity joint, 4 - gaskets, 5 - grease fitting, 6 - kingpin, 7 - kingpin pad, 8 - stub axle housing, 9 - kingpin bushing, 10 - ball bearing, 11 - final drive driven shaft, 12 - hub, 13 - air flange, 14 - coupling, 15 - retainer ball spring, 16 - protective cap, 17 - coupling bolt, 18 - trunnion, 19 - lock nut, 20 - support washer, 21 - drive gear, 22 - locking pin, 23 - thrust washer, 24 - cuff, 25 - support washer, 26 - axle housing, 27 - swivel limit bolt, 28 - stop-limit wheel rotation limiter, 29 - pivot pin lever, I…III, a - the same as in fig. 112

The final drive housings are cast integrally with the stub axle housings. The drive gear is mounted on the splines of the driven fist of the hinge between the ball and roller bearings and is fixed together with the roller bearing by a nut 19, which, after tightening, is punched into the groove of the shaft. The ball bearing is installed in the body of the pivot pin in a cage with an outer shoulder, which perceives the axial loads of the hinge through the bearing. At the outer ends of the driven shafts of the front final drives, devices are installed that make it possible to connect or disconnect, if necessary, the shafts with the front wheel hubs.

What bridges are installed on various models of UAZ vehicles?

For all wagon-mounted cars (“”, “and”, “farmers”), for “long goats” (3153 *), as well as for most of the “classic goats”, the so-called “civilian” ones are installed (they are also “ordinary”, “ kolkhoznye") bridges. On a part of the "goats" (models with indexes -03x), "military" (they are also "gear", "two-stage", "P-shaped") bridges are installed. On the "new goats" (316 *) bridges of the "spicer" type with a one-piece crankcase are installed. On machines "" (3159 *) and 316 * with an increased gauge, "long military" bridges are installed, that is, geared with elongated stockings.

Differences between military bridges and civilian ones.

Advantages of military bridges over civilian ones:

- clearance 30 cm (against 22 cm for civilian bridges); according to the latest measurements, a difference of 8 cm is observed only when Y-192 rubber is used on military bridges. With identical wheels the difference is only 6 cm.
- more "torque" (torque) - for transporting heavy loads, towing, driving at low speeds in the mud;
- more reliable due to the larger size of the teeth of the main pair;
- more reliable due to the uniform distribution of the load between the main and final drives;
- were developed, among other things, for "escorting a tank column" and approved by the USSR Ministry of Defense.

The military has a differential increased friction. Those. if you get stuck in the mud with one wheel of the bridge or you stand on ice with one half and you have one half slipping and the other not (this is how a conventional differential works). To prevent this from happening, military bridges were invented. So off-road military bridges are much better.

Gear ratio GP (total: GP 2.77 + final drives 1.94): 5.38
Ground clearance: 300 mm (with tires Ya-192 215/90 R15 (31 x 8.5 R15)
Track: 1453 mm

Left on a photo UAZ on civil bridges and on the right - UAZ on gear axles — « warriors«.

Advantages of civilian bridges over military ones:

- less weight (more comfortable ride and (physically) easier to repair);
- fewer parts - easier and cheaper repairs;
— it is possible to install mass-produced self-locking differentials;
- it is possible to install a spring suspension (see also note);
- at the same speed, the engine is less “untwisted” due to the lower gear ratio;
- less noisy (since the final drives of military bridges are spur gears, and they make more noise);
- more accessible and cheaper app. parts;
- Gasoline consumption, other things being equal, is less;
- fewer lubrication points - easier maintenance and less oil needed.

Bridges with final drives (Fig. 3.106 and 3.107) are installed as a set (front and rear) on modifications of cars of the UAZ-31512 family with the simultaneous replacement of the rear driveshaft.

Rice. 3.106. Rear axle with final drive:
1 – a cover of a crankcase of the main transfer; 2 - differential bearing; 3,13,49 - shims; 4 - sealing gasket; 5.7 - bearings of the drive gear; 6.15 - adjusting rings; 8.42 - cuffs; 9 - flange; 10 - nut; 11 - mud deflector; 12 - ring; 14 - spacer sleeve; 16 - main gear drive; 17 - satellite; 18 - right axle shaft; 19 – final drive housing; 20.29 - oil deflectors; 21 - axle bearing; 22,26,40 - retaining rings; 23 - sealing gasket of the final drive housing; 24 – final drive housing cover; 25 - bearing; 27 - brake shield; 28 - brake drum; 30 – a bolt of fastening of a wheel; 31 - trunnion; 32 - hub bearing; 33.41 - gaskets; 34 - lock washer; 35 - leading flange; 36 – a nut of bearings of a nave; 37 - lock washer; 38 - sleeve; 39 - driven shaft final drive; 43 - driven shaft bearing; 44 - driven gear final drive; 45 - special nut; 46.50 - drain plugs; 47 - final drive gear; 48 - right cup of the box of satellites; 51 - main gear housing; 52 – half shaft gear washer; 53 - half shaft gear; 54 - the axis of the satellites; 55 - driven gear of the main gear; 56 - left cup of the satellite box; 57 - left half shaft

Maintenance

Maintenance of axles with final drives differs from that described above by the technology of changing the grease in the joints of the steering knuckles of the front axles, checking and changing the oil in the crankcases of the final drives, as well as adjusting the position of the drive gear 16 of the final drive and its bearings 5 and 7 (see. Fig. 3.106 ).

After adjusting the side clearance, it is necessary to check the engagement of the final drive gears along the contact patch, as indicated in the “Assembly and adjustment of the rear axle units” section (p. 73).

After driving 50,000 km at the next maintenance it is recommended to tighten the bolts securing the driven gear 44 of the final drive and the driven gear 55 of the final drive, as well as the bolts of the removable bearing housing 25 of the final drive.

The position of the gear 16 is regulated by the selection of the adjusting ring 15 of the required thickness. When replacing final drive gears and a large tapered bearing or only final drive gears, measure the mounting height of the large tapered bearing 5 under an axial load of 2–2.5 kN (200–250 kgf) and, if it is less than 32.95 mm, by some value, then increase the thickness of the adjusting ring by the same amount compared to that which was installed in the axle housing. When replacing only a large tapered bearing 5, in order not to disturb the position of the gear, measure the mounting height of the old and new bearings and, if the new bearing has a higher mounting height than the old one, then reduce the thickness of the adjusting ring 15, and if less, increase by difference in bearing heights.

Adjust the preload in bearings 5 and 7 by selecting the adjusting ring 6 and tightening the nut 10. If this fails, change the number of spacers 13 and again by selecting the ring and tightening the nut, achieve such a preload of the bearings that there is no axial movement of the gear, and the gear rotates without great effort. Perform a dynamometer check with the rubber cuff 8 removed. With proper adjustment, at the moment of turning the gear by the hole in the flange, the dynamometer should show 10–20 N (1–2 kgf) for run-in bearings and 25–35 N (2.5–3.5 kgf ) for new ones.

Rice. 3.107. Front axle steering knuckle with final drive:
a - signal groove; I - right rotary fist; II - left rotary fist; III - wheel disconnect clutch (option see Fig. 180, IV); 1 - stuffing box; 2 - ball bearing; 3 – the hinge of a rotary fist; 4 - gasket; 5 - press grease fitting; 6 - kingpin; 7 - overlay; 8 - body of the steering knuckle; 9 - kingpin bushing; 10 - bearing; 11 - driven shaft of the final drive; 12 - hub; 13 - leading flange; 14 - clutch; 15 – lock ball; 16 - protective cap; 17 - coupling bolt; 18 - trunnion; 19 - lock nut; 20.23 - support washers; 21 - final drive gear; 22 - locking pin; 24 - rubber sealing ring; 25 - thrust washer; 26 - axle housing; 27 – a bolt of restriction of turn; 28 - emphasis-limiter of rotation of the wheel; 29 - steering knuckle lever

Lubricant change in the steering knuckle joints, perform in the following order:

1. Disconnect the flexible hose from the wheel cylinder of the brake mechanism and the tie rod ends from the levers, unscrew the bolts securing the clips of the ball joint sealing rings and slide the clips with the sealing rings onto the neck of the ball joint (Fig. 3.107).

2. Turn away nuts of hairpins of fastening of the lever or bolts of fastening of the top overlay of a kingpin and remove the lever or an overlay and shims.

3. Turn away bolts of fastening of the lower overlay, remove an overlay with adjusting linings.

4. Remove with the help of a puller (see Fig. 3.102) the pins from the steering knuckle housing and remove the housing assembly with the ball joint.

5. Carefully, without spreading the forks (so that the balls do not pop out), remove the hinge assembly with bearings and gear from the steering knuckle housing. Without special need, it is not necessary to remove the hinge from the steering knuckle housing and disassemble it.

6. Remove used grease from ball joint, joint and housing, rinse thoroughly with kerosene and apply fresh grease.

Rice. 3.102. King pin puller

Perform assembly in the reverse order of disassembly, observing the requirements for adjusting the pivots. When installing the flexible brake hose, do not twist it. After assembly, bleed the brake drive system (see the Service Brake System section).

Disassemble final drive in the following order:

1. After removing the hub with the brake drum (see the section "Removing, disassembling and assembling the hubs"), on the rear brake shield, unscrew the coupling of the brake mechanism pipeline (on the front - a tee of connecting pipes and a flexible hose) from the wheel cylinder, unscrew the nuts of the fastening studs trunnions and remove the spring washers, oil deflector, trunnion, trunnion gasket, spring gasket, brake mechanism assembly and brake shield gaskets.

2. Unscrew the nut 45 (see. Fig. 3.106) fastening the bearing on the driven shaft of the final drive, unscrew the bolts of the final drive housing cover, remove the cover assembly with the shaft, remove the cover gasket and press the shaft from the cover. In contrast to the left final drive, the shaft 39 and the nut 45 of the right drive have a left-hand thread. The nut with a left-hand thread is marked with an annular groove, and the shaft is marked with blind drilling with a diameter of 3 mm at the end face of the splined end.

3. Turn away bolts of fastening of a conducted gear wheel and remove a gear wheel from a shaft 39.

4. Mark the position of the roller bearing housing 25 on the tide of the final drive housing of the rear axle, unscrew the bolts securing the housing, remove the bearing housing. Do not remove the front axle final drive roller bearing housing unless absolutely necessary. (Further procedure for disassembling the final drive of the front axle, see above in the description of changing the grease in the pivot joints.) Remove the snap ring 22 of the ball bearing 21, axle shaft 18 and oil deflector 20 from the final drive housing.

5. Remove the roller bearing circlip 26, roller bearing 25, pinion gear 47 and ball bearing from the axle shaft.

Collect final drive in the reverse order of disassembly, taking into account the following: bearing mounting nut 45 (Fig. 3.106) on the driven shaft of the front and rear final drives, as well as nut 19 (see Fig. 3.107) bearing and gear mounting on the drive shaft of the front final drive after open the puffs into the groove of the shaft, and crimp the rings 26 of the bearing locks on the axle shafts of the rear final drives after installation in the groove; tighten the bolts for fastening the wheel (driven gear) and the removable bearing housing with a torque of 64–78 N m (6.5–8.0 kgf m), bolts for fastening the crankcase cover - 35–39 N m (3.6–4, 0 kgf m).

When repairing axles with final drives, use the data in the tables

Military bridges are called "U-shaped" (the bridge is like a crossbar of the letter, wheels are attached to the right and left of the letter). The torque does not fall entirely on the main pair (as on civilian bridges), but is distributed between the main pair and gearboxes. (see continuation)

Differences between military bridges and civilian ones.

Advantages of military bridges over civilian ones:

Ground clearance 30 cm (against 22 cm for civilian bridges); according to the latest measurements, a difference of 8 cm is observed only when Y-192 rubber is used on military bridges. With identical wheels the difference is only 6 cm.
- more "torque" (torque) - for transporting heavy loads, towing, driving at low speeds in the mud;
- more reliable due to the larger size of the teeth of the main pair;
- more reliable due to the uniform distribution of the load between the main and final drives;
- were developed, among other things, for "escorting a tank column" and approved by the USSR Ministry of Defense.

The military has a limited slip differential. Those. if you get stuck in the mud with one wheel of the bridge or you stand on ice with one half and you have one half slipping and the other not (this is how a conventional differential works). To prevent this from happening, military bridges were invented. So off-road military bridges are much better.

Gear ratio GP (total: GP 2.77 + final drives 1.94): 5.38
Ground clearance: 300 mm (with tires Ya-192 215/90 R15 (31 x 8.5 R15)
Track: 1453 mm

general information

Front axle

SHRUS

Pivot knot

Couplings "ELMO", "STELM", "Rus", etc.

rear axle

Construction and repair of the rear axle (Timken)

Wheel locks

Hubs

Bridge tuning. Finalization of UAZ bridges. Non-standard bridges on UAZ

Other bridge information

The military bridge differs from the usual one by the presence of final drives. Due to the presence of gearboxes, the bridge is raised relative to the wheel axis by 4 cm, which increases the vehicle's clearance (the distance from the ground to the bottom of the bridge). Therefore, military bridges are called "U-shaped" (the bridge is like a crossbar of the letter, wheels are attached to the right and left of the letter). The torque does not fall entirely on the main pair (as on civilian bridges), but is distributed between the main pair and gearboxes. Due to this, the main pair is smaller in size (the crankcase of the military bridge "hangs" 4 cm less than the civilian one). The main pair has fewer teeth, and they are larger - this increases the reliability of military bridges compared to civilian ones. The gear ratio of military bridges is 5.38 (= 2.77 * 1.94 - gear ratios of the main and final drives, respectively) - more "high-torque", but less "high-speed" than conventional bridges.
The rear driveshaft for military axles is 1 cm shorter than for civilian ones! What is the gear ratio of civilian bridges?

Until July 1989, the main pair with a gear ratio of 5.125 (41 teeth) was installed in civilian bridges, now with a gear ratio of 4.625 (37 teeth), i.e., more "fast", but less "powerful". You can find both in stores. You will most likely have to replace the "new" with the "old" main pair when installing very large wheels. It is recommended to replace the main pairs only as a complete set (in the front and rear axles), otherwise the front axle will have to be switched on exclusively in mud, snow, sand, etc., so as not to damage the transfer case and damage the rubber.

How to determine the gear ratio?

The rear Barsovsky bridge differs from the ordinary military one only in two details:
stockings - taken from the Kolkhoen bridge;
axle shaft - original spare part. Which is better - conventional or geared axles - and why?

For the first time this question arose when cars with gear axles appeared on the free market. Disputes "which bridges are better" arise in the conference regularly. All frequently used arguments are summarized here.
Advantages of military bridges over civilian ones:
- clearance 30 cm (against 22 cm for civilian bridges); according to the latest measurements, a difference of 8 cm is observed only when Y-192 rubber is used on military bridges. With identical wheels the difference is only 6 cm.
- more "torque" (torque) - for transporting heavy loads, towing, driving at low speeds in the mud;
- more reliable due to the larger size of the teeth of the main pair;
- more reliable due to the uniform distribution of the load between the main and final drives;
- were developed, among other things, for "escorting a tank column" and (unlike civilian ones! - see from the magazine "Behind the wheel") approved by the USSR Ministry of Defense.

Advantages of civilian bridges over military ones:
- less weight (more comfortable ride and (physically) easier to repair);
- fewer parts - easier and cheaper repairs;
- installation of mass-produced is possible;
- it is possible to install a spring suspension (see also note);
- at the same speed, the engine is less "untwisted" due to the lower gear ratio;
- less noisy (since the final drives of military bridges are spur gears, and they make more noise);
- more accessible and cheaper app. parts;
- the consumption of gasoline, other things being equal, is less;
- fewer lubrication points - easier maintenance and less oil needed.

Note for long military bridges:
- only a spring suspension is installed on them (see comparison of spring and spring suspensions);
- stability improves;
- increased permeability;
- spare parts are not available.

Guys, I only agree with you 50%. These 8 cm do not give such a big advantage. It all depends on the gasket between the steering wheel and the seat! Example. Yesterday we went fishing with 2 UAZs. One is 31514-10 + , the other is 31514-031 + 8 cm of ground clearance (military). It was necessary to drive a segment of the road on virgin soil for about 150 meters. We walked in two different tracks purely to satisfy our own curiosity - what is still better - diffs or 8 cm of clearance. It turned out that the diffs are cooler!!! I pulled him out of the snow captivity twice! The road (if I may say so) is dense, spring snow. We didn’t measure the depth (we didn’t go for this), but it has already sunk! So alas - 8 cm give a little! [Valera]

Differences (except for a smaller landing on a civilian) have not yet felt. But I think that the warriors are not fools - since they put up such bridges, they are better when driving off-road. But for driving on the highway at high speeds, simple ones should be better, because. warriors don’t drive fast and their bridges are adapted specifically for slow driving ... The difference is noticed in critical situations, for example, two weeks ago, at the entrance to the dacha, the road consisted of wet sticky snow - the “goat” sat down with his whole belly, but this is with civilians bridges. I figured that he lacked those ... centimeters ... which make the military above the ordinary. Last winter, on the old "goat" with military bridges, I did not even think about the road. And there are many such examples - what is there to feel - the patency of a car that ... higher is naturally better ...

civil bridges. Recently I went into the forest and had to wade through such a rut that the car just lay on it with bridges. She rode, leaving behind two furrows from the gearboxes. Clinging, apparently, only the edges of the wheels. I think that with military bridges it will be much easier. At least if I have to change bridges, I will change to military ones. True, the military has one big minus - the design. Complex mechanics made by Soviet hands are UNRELIABLE.

Military bridges... really are designed for difficult conditions, but the consumption is higher, and noisier and more difficult. However, there is a pattern - all police UAZ vehicles are equipped only with civilian bridges (consumption and dynamics are important on asphalt, only I-245 are completed), in the Moscow Region only military bridges (only I-192 tires).
The operation of UAZ in the Moscow Region is a horror without beginning or end. As a rule, at 50 thousand, the transmission of the final drives begins to flow. There are no more problems, after 100 thousand, the car, as a rule, is sold to the national economy and ... they ride it for another 10 years, not really worrying about what is happening with the bridges.

If you sit on bridges, then blocking is unlikely to help (unless you dig deeper). There is a sense from them, of course, but not in these situations. By the way, according to my observations (4 recent years active hunting in winter, spring and autumn) UAZs with collective farm bridges, as a rule, lose the ability to move precisely because of landing on bridges. I remember only one case when blocking could really help - moving through a large frozen puddle, the UAZ broke the ice and fell through with its right wheels (did not sit on the bridges). As a result: the left wheels "soap" on the ice, and the right ones, reaching the solid ground at the bottom of the puddle, stand motionless. Well, I still took a UAZ with military bridges. In hunting grounds, rarely anyone travels on virgin lands (almost never). Basically, people travel along "roads" - sort of clearings in the forest, or rolled "roads" through the fields. In such conditions, deep tractor RUTS become the main obstacle, especially in lowlands, swamps and streams, or fallen trees, or stumps, etc. That is, the characteristics of "rowing" with all wheels at the same time become less important than ground clearance. In practical terms, if I have one (or two along the side / diagonal) wheels slipping, then it will be easier for me to put something under them (branches, branches, etc.) than to hang out an UAZ sitting on bridges and slipping with all four blocked wheels.

A year ago, I replaced civilian bridges with military ones, conclusions:
1. There is no noticeable difference in noise between military and civilian bridges.
2. With a properly adjusted machine, fuel consumption should not increase by more than 1-1.5 liters (for military).
3. About twisting the engine. At least half of the UAZ owners on collective farm bridges have a GP of 5.125. On the military - 5.38. In total, we get a torsion of less than 5%! At 3000 rpm it's only 150 rpm. Funny! But at the same time, as if laid down by the state, the Ya-192 is 3% larger than 245 or 357 in diameter. That is, in the "regular" version, the difference in torsion is less than 2%! (although the "regular" options are not so often seen in the city (I-192)).

About patency. Well-fitting UAZ on both gearboxes collective farm bridges it is practically impossible to pull off another UAZ of the same type (even if sitting on Goodrich, they passed it repeatedly). On military bridges, the crankcase is made in the shape of a ski, so the car can move on them, leaving a furrow from the crankcase up to 3 cm deep.

Well, in conclusion - military bridges are much more reliable than collective farm ones. And the design is more thoughtful, and the production is a couple of percent better. [Radomyrich]

When installing locks in civilian axles and wheels>= 33 ", you often have to change the axle shafts, cv joints or main pairs. These locks are designed not for UAZ, but for armored personnel carriers ... In addition, this lock is not intended for use as an interwheel differential and the function of the latter to put it mildly, it does not perform very well, which can lead to sad consequences in terms of [un]controllability.Military bridges dramatically improve the situation with breaking, but there are no blockages for them (but there is more clearance).Nevertheless, the entire progressive jeeper community is gradually switching to military bridges, including those who some time ago were staunch supporters of blocking.[_sergey_]

I've had the operation of repressing bridges the other day. Now I have gear axles with locks. The wheels are huge and the gears just unloaded the load. I did this by pressing stockings out of military and civil bridges and, accordingly, inserting military stockings into civilian ones. [Glory] What is needed to replace "civilian" bridges with "military" ones?

1. Plates for rear axle ladders.
2. For the front bridges, the lower cups for the stepladders are the same. But it needs to be cleaned well. There is a recess that is not used in civilian bridges and clogged with dirt, but it works in the military.
3. Step-ladders gr.and military. bridges are the same

Report on the replacement of gr.bridges with military ones:

Firstly, I want to immediately ask the person who wrote that you only need to shorten the rear cardan by 10 mm and find the plates for the rear axle ladders to confess, and in this case I will not beat him hard !!!
There was plenty of hemorrhoids.

the front brake pipes on the military are their original ones, they come with a tee.
plates for ladders are not on sale as a class. I had to weld square bars to my relatives.
After installing the ladders on the springs, it turned out that they were too long, because. the spring has only seven leaves. From a suitable tube, I had to make 20 mm bushings for nuts, otherwise there is not enough thread.
Cut brake hoses completely refuse to unscrew from the tubes, all sorts of fluids did not help. When the connection is heated with a gas burner, I miraculously dodge the cutting of the hose, which flew out of the flare like a bullet. Lucky! :-)))
Because bridges were purchased without brakes, i.e. junk cylinders, drums were lying in a bag and something was even used, but I had to collect everything from scratch. The drums are machined, the cylinders are polished and anthers are applied to the sealant, the pads are glued from the Volga - again labor costs and superfluous towers.
All springs were forged and all bushings replaced.
Yes, and the speedometer gear should be changed - the hands did not reach.
In the kit, they gave a transverse link - I installed it, it is straight, without bending under the civil differential.

Here is the work done.
P / S If I knew that the flow of everything would have to be done - I would have thought ten times. And now it's too late. It is necessary to sell gr / bridges, at least return the money spent.

Total what it cost me (July 2002):
4500 rubles bridges
2000 main interior spare parts
1000 to a locksmith for overhauling final drives
1000 - if not more for small things.
Total: 8500 rubles and two weeks of Kamasutra in the evenings and weekends.
It remains to collect some snot.
I rode a little, it seems that nothing is buzzing, but I have not yet been finally convinced of this, but I want to calm my soul - they did not touch the differentials and therefore it is alarming. The fact that traction was added and the sprung mass also became noticeable immediately! For the rest, let's see What are locking differentials?

In the "original" UAZ has non-blocking interwheel differentials in the rear and front axles (both civilian and military). Therefore, in turns, as expected, the wheels on one side (inner relative to the center of the turn) spin slower than the wheels on the other side (outer). In the limiting case, if one of the wheels of the bridge does not experience any resistance (for example, it is jacked up or spinning in liquid mud), then the other wheel is stationary. This is the disadvantage of off-road differentials - if, for example, the car got into the mud right side, no matter how the right wheels knead the dirt, the left ones remain motionless and the car stops. To avoid this, cross-axle differentials are made lockable (rigidly or partially). Hard blocking can be forced(lockers) or automatic(self-locking, cam differentials).
Lokers are controlled, as a rule, by pneumatics. Lockers work simply - there is a cylinder with a fork that moves such crowned crap, which actually blocks.
The automatic locking of the cam differential occurs when the halves of the differential housing are rotated relative to each other (by one turn?), i.e., when one of the wheels slips. Such a differential is blocked both when turning forward and backward, and is automatically unlocked when leveling (up to a certain value?) Wheel speeds. For machine control features with automatic interlocks, see .
Partially blocked are limited slip differentials (LSD), they have a number of discs inside (like a clutch), special oil is poured in, which helps the discs to slow down ... but there is nothing solid there.

And according to the actual principle of operation ... With such self-blocks, at least 60% goes to the lagging wheel in any situation. On some modes - up to 70-75 (maximum). But the self-block does not care what resistance it overcomes (that is, what caused this resistance to spinning the wheels). It is able to cover the difference of moments up to 70-30=40% of the tractive effort at any combination of resistances (friction in the contact patch of the tire with the road, braking with a service brake or the moment of inertia of a spinning wheel). Therefore, if this very difference in the moments of resistance is not enough to turn the standing wheel (that is, it exceeds these same 40%) ... gently press the brake. At first, the moment on the standing wheel will simply increase, then it will start to rotate (if the engine has enough power), and then, if the difference becomes less than 60-40 \u003d 20%, the trim will generally force both wheels to slip synchronously, like a hard-locked one (it's just " bite" with such a big common moment). That is, there is a "100% blocking" (however, at what cost...). Or you can just rev sharply - the same role will be played by the moment of inertia of the suspended wheel. And people are still wondering why, when driving in a turn on soft ground, a sharp gas supply can cause " abrupt change behavior of the car "with cam differentials (when the self-block simply wedges). Be careful with these devices :)) ...

See the principle of operation of the cam differential on the UAZAVTOTEKHOBSLUZHIVA website

From a letter from Technoservice:

Differentials, which will be discussed below, are installed only in the so-called. "civilian" bridges. It's connected with design features. At the moment, we (Technoservice) have two types of limited slip differentials: cam and with cones. They differ in how they work. The first one works quite hard, sometimes leading to temporary blocking of the wheels. The work of the second is much softer, with a smooth increase in torque on the lagging wheel from 0 to 0.65max.
The first differential is allowed to be set only in rear axle, because wheel locks are not allowed on the front steering axle.
The second differential can be put in the front axle. (Grigory Serjantsov) What cross-axle differentials can be installed on UAZ? Are there many changes?

Yesterday I received very incomplete information from the city of Gorky (Nizhny Novgorod) that in nature there are still self-locking differentials on army bridges !!! The fact is that this summer I asked my friend's father-in-law (he lives in Gorky) to look for information about self-locking differentials specifically for military bridges. And yesterday they told me that he did find a man who has such differentials on army bridges! In short, I think it's worth stepping up the search! Happy hunting everyone!!!

There are blockings on military bridges! But this is home-made (although the drawings can be obtained ... theoretically - because they may not be given, but for the money, I think they will put the locks themselves. The principle is the same as from the BTR-60. In general, if you really need and there is money (I didn’t ask, but probably an order of magnitude more than for armored personnel carriers ... [Kolka]

Interlocks in military bridges - automatic machines - a bridge with an installation of 6 - 7 t. (early August 2000), rigid pneumatics with control from dashboard 8 - 9 tr. Automatic machines are also 100% blocking - but they are generally turned off when cornering. Machine guns for military bridges - the bridge is permanently hard blocked. In a turn, when overtaking a wheel, the pin snaps out and the axle becomes completely free until the wheel lags. Pin back - diagonal away. The old differentials are being redone in the case of an automatic. The entire bridge is being redone in the case of an airlock. Locks "under license" from special equipment of the USSR. Friend's license. He will also bet. [Chief] Feedback on locks in gear axles

Since, until the last moment, I did not find any reviews on the network about the real use of limited-slip differentials for gear axles, except for an article in a 4x4 magazine, I decided to spend some time and describe my own feelings from their operation. So, unlike the Moscow-made 4x4 self-blocks described in the magazine, for which the manufacturer, who was obviously not in himself, asked for $ 600 apiece (after which the desire to contact his products disappeared - let him heal his head), I purchased Nizhny Novgorod products, which have absolutely the same principle of operation as the Moscow ones, but they are more affordable (for example, they can be bought in an off-shop for $ 370). I put self-blocks on both bridges and went to test them at the 3rd stage of the Partizan trophy. The complexity of the tracks was very high (for those who are interested, pictures from the track -), and the conclusions from the use turned out to be something like this:

Self-blocks do not work at all with heavy diagonal hanging. That is, in reality, there was not a single time when the rotation of one wheel on the bridge was visually visible when the car was stationary. Moreover, the use of 100% blocking would most likely help the car move off. "Turn up the gas", as described in the example by the 4x4 magazine, it was not possible to solve this situation: I rode boggers and this advice would have buried me deep and for a long time ;-)) It is not clear whether this fact should be taken into account, but 100% blockages no one promised, the manufacturer promises only 70%, although I would doubt this figure (by 70% they will work only with a very strong difference in rotation speeds. If you do not allow strong wheel slip, then they almost do not work or work very little - that is, without a visible effect).
Turning at the maximum inverted steering wheel has noticeably deteriorated. The turning radius has doubled. It was tested on soft ground in a dense forest ;-)) To pass the turn with a minimum radius, I had to slow down. As it turned out, this is a panacea for this glitch: at low speed, the radius is the same.
The patency in a deep rut has significantly improved (this plus is also noted by the 4x4 magazine). The difference is huge, those places in the rut in which we sat on the bridges a month ago were now easy to pass, and if we sat on the bridges (1-2 times all the time), then in that place the rut was very gouged and the last time I would not even poke my head into this place, but would go round in the forest.
There is no sound of operation (maybe I didn’t hear it, 2 hours after the start, my muffler was torn off ;-)))). So it’s not at all clear whether it was a regular diff or a self-locking one =)))

In short, the conclusions from here are as follows: we go further on self-blocks, but only if it suddenly turns out that they quickly crumble. So far, a two-day operation in super heavy duty has not revealed a lack of strength. There is no tangible superiority of self-blocks on conventional diffs and most likely will not be. Therefore, it is naive to count on a serious increase in cross-country ability ;-))) How will the further experience be, I will definitely share it. =)) [Alexander Filatkin ( [email protected])]

Self-blocks, for which the manufacturer asked for $600, are, firstly, with installation, and secondly, they differ in that they have been finalized specifically for UAZ. As for the ones you use, these are actually Quifs from Moskvich, which, with the same high quality, have a slightly lower blocking coefficient (a different angle of the screw). The manufacturer is not a factory, but rather a small enterprise, and could reduce prices if there were a sufficiently large number of sales (in their words).
You can "add gas" or you can not add - just turn on a higher gear - the difference in the angular speeds of rotation of the axle shafts will increase, respectively, a greater moment will be transferred to the frozen wheel. Or you can just “touch” the brake pedal a little - with properly adjusted brakes, the effect will be the same, although for a UAZ with drums this is hardly realistically achievable))
So "self-blocks" - "self-blocks" are different, and you should not immediately generalize. I personally tested them, and I have just such ones in my jeep. So far I'm satisfied. Another thing is that I personally would prefer Detroit Locker, which just works a hell of a lot better than LSD self-blocks, and than all sorts of "forced drugs". [Ivan Evdokimov (MONSTR4X4), author of the article "Military Blocked"].

BTR-60s are no longer produced, but nevertheless blockages are made in the city of Arzamas, Nizhny Novgorod region, in Kurgan?
! ... The differential search circle narrows to V/Ch fences. Whether warrant officers responsible for the safety of materiel accept credit cards, traveler's checks or postal orders, I do not know, but it is not in human habits to refuse cash.
! Self-locking differentials (from the BTR-60) are often found in the village of Vyezdnoye (the southern exit from Arzamas) in the GAZ-UAZ store ... They only import a few pieces. How to find a store? We leave Arzamas (to the south), we move railway and after 70 meters on the left (opposite the church) there will be a shop (the same one). Opening hours: 8-17, Saturday 8-14, Sunday - day off. There is no phone in the store. Owner's phone number (8-247) 9-08-86 (call in the evening, ask Valera). [MISHA from Nizhny]
! Cross-wheel locks from armored personnel carriers are available. Ready for installation on a UAZ car. [email protected] urnet.ru. Tell us how to install self-locking differentials from the BTR-60 in civilian axles.

Everything is done very simply! You remove the bridge from the car, after draining the oil and unscrewing the brake hoses. Pull out the axles. Then the bridge must be cut in half. To get to the differential box, you pull out the old differential, remove the bearings and the gear of the main pair from it (collect all the gaskets and bolts together - they will still be useful to you). In the new diff, you need to drill holes from 10 mm to 12 mm (if they are not drilled). After these operations, you can start assembling - put the gear in place (fortunately, nothing else is required for this), adjust the bearings of the differential (the process of adjusting the bearings of the differential box is described in detail in the book) and put everything back in its original place! ALL!!! The front axle is installed in the same sequence! Good luck with blocking! [Valera]

I think everyone has already guessed that differentials are put in the rear axle much easier :), so I started with it:
1) the cardan is unscrewed from the bridge;
2) the oil is drained (although you still won’t drain it anyway :));
3) unscrew the brake hoses, and squeeze the flexible so that it does not flow;
4) the ladders are unscrewed, but not completely, so that the bridge still holds a little;
5) shock absorbers are unscrewed;
6) wheels are removed;
7) it is hung out behind the UAZ frame and the ladders are unscrewed to the end - the bridge is removed;
8) unscrew and remove the axle shafts;
9) the bridge splits in half. Attention: it is better not to tear the gasket of the axle reducer !!! I tore mine, but it doesn't exist in stores, even in the South Port! Although you can cut it out of thick paper, as I did. By the way, half shaft gaskets are also not a frequent occurrence ... Then you got to the differential and look impatiently at the main pair ... It turns out that there are two types (in addition to the number of teeth) - sometimes with 10 mm holes, and sometimes with 12 mm threaded holes, so if you have a thread in the main pair - this is worse, because you have to sweat a little and drill 12 mm holes in the new diff (and for this you need to have a good drill for metal 12 mm, and preferably a few pieces and preferably self-sharpening, if there are such ). Everything was OK in my rear axle, but I had to drill in the front axle, so everything rested in the absence of such a drill: (and it turned out to be painfully hard metal ...);
10) then you need to suffer with the bearings: remove both (7510), for this you just need a puller !!! We shot 40 minutes without it, 13 seconds with it :), but you need to shoot oh so many times (when adjusting);
11) further process from the book: dress ch. a pair, and you do not fill the bearings to the end, but leave a gap of 3-3.5 mm, assemble the bridge together with the gasket, tighten the bolts of the gearbox, disassemble again and see what you have left of the gap (for one and the other bearing) add to this figure 0.1 divide the resulting number in half and insert the rings in front of the bearings into such a thickness. Then just collect everything to the end!
This, only briefly, Valera told, but they wrote about the front axle: "you do everything the same" ... The first difficulty: unscrew the brake hoses, for some reason they are more stubborn in front and quickly strive to break (not only on my UAZ ). The second difficulty is my lack of familiarity with the UAZ :)) I tried to unscrew the axle shafts in the same way as in the back, but then I realized that not everything is so simple and this is the front axle ... In general, I immediately cut the bridge in half (previously removing :) and unscrewing the tie rods in two places) and then did everything as with the rear, only together with the axle shafts ...
As a result, put everything in its place, pump the brakes, pour oil into the bridges and into the DIRT!!! :-)) A question for Valera and the others: how wrong was I when I didn’t pull out anything in the front axle (half shafts), but adjusted the bearings just like that? .. [Kolka]

Finished installing a self-locking difa in the rear axle. Until I forgot:

Stepladders otbolgaril immediately. For loosening rusty brake pipes you need to warm them up with a blowtorch or something else and cool them several times, after which they turn away to the hot one. Having broken one tube, I flared it again, which was not so difficult.
Gaskets between the halves of the axle housing are sold without problems, so the old one can be torn.
It is better to drill holes at 12 in the differential with a special multi-start tool - a countersink, then drill it with a drill to 12.1-12.2 if the holes do not match. If you immediately drill with a drill, then because of its beating, an uneven entry is obtained, and the hole moves to the side. Because I didn’t find a countersink, then I made a call (to a depth of about 2 mm) with a 12 reamer, but sharpened the ends like a drill. It is impossible to go deeper. the reamer cuts sideways and the hole slides to the side again. Then I drilled with a regular drill by 12. As a result, holes were obtained that exactly matched the threads in the driven gear (I sharpened a couple with a file to the side). You can achieve a more accurate match of the holes by turning the gear on the differential.
The old bolts for fastening the differential to the gear are short, because diff is thicker. After a long search, the bolts of the GAZ-53 cardan with the letter X were selected. They are longer and with a head of 17. The uncut part of the thread just corresponds to the thickness of the differential, so that after screwing the bolts to the end, there remains somewhere 1 mm of thread to the driven gear. The bolts must be shortened with a grinder, because if they stick out on the other side of the gear, they will touch the support socket of the rear bearing of the drive gear. Additionally planted bolts on threaded glue.
Pay attention to the differential bearings. Almost always, shells appear on the rollers - the bearing needs to be replaced. Because of them, the bridge howls at speed. On the advice of the confa, the outer ring of the bearing was knocked out by welding a strip of iron across it and tapping the axle shaft on the outside. It turned out very easy. Cook gently with a dvoechka so as not to overheat the cast-iron nest.
It is better to buy a good bearing puller for 300-500 rubles than to buy disposable Zhiguli for 100-200. I hardly had enough of it.
Under the halves of the bridge, it is better to make special stands. Very convenient for multiple assembly - disassembly. The adjustment of the bearing tension itself did not cause problems. Gap - the required thickness of the shims can be measured with ordinary feeler gauges.
Nuts tightening halves of the bridge can be replaced with nuts for fastening the axis of the rocker arms. These break down at once, and those are higher.
Effort of rotation of differential - 5 kg on a flange. Effort of a leading gear wheel - 1.5 kg. Total - 6.5 kg. Decreased a lot after pouring oil and a short run. The crankcase gets a little warm.
In s.b. differential is better to pour a special oil for limited slip differentials with an LS additive. Like Castrol LS90 or BP Limslip 90. I didn’t find such a thing in Yaroslavl, then I filled it with a simple BP 80w90, but if I find it, I’ll replace it.
Tighten wheel bearings frequently. If this is not done, then the inner rings of the bearings begin to rotate on the trunnion and the trunnion wears out.

In the front, because 1) it is connected only when the rattles are screwed in - the resource of the differential, axle shafts, etc. increases. 500 km The last just cut off ...);
2) the load on it is greater (on a medium-loaded machine), therefore, it has more grip on the ground.

I only have it on the front axle because: 1 The resource of these diffs is very limited 2 Such a diff, like the front axle, is only needed on off-road 3 Does not interfere with normal movement on a normal road 4 The front wheels are controlled and, in combination with blocking, the result is tangible. [Pyatak]

On my LandRover 110, I have ARB Loker in both axles with forced pneumatic engagement from el. compressor. So: they turn on each with their own button, but without turning on the rear one first, do not turn on the front one. This is the standard scheme. The idea of the imperialists regarding the installation of locks first in the rear, and then in the front, in my opinion, is that they are turned on in difficult conditions, and it seems to them that the rear axle shafts (especially reinforced) will be in the mud and on tend to live longer. I don’t know how the axle shafts differ in UAZ, but in Def the rear one is much more powerful than the front one ... Also, if there are self-locking differentials in front, it can be difficult to drive on the road and with different wheel diameters - everything happens in the mud.

From a letter from Technoservice At the moment, we have two types of limited slip differentials: cam and cone. They differ in how they work. The first one works quite hard, sometimes leading to temporary blocking of the wheels. The work of the second is much softer, with a smooth increase in torque on the lagging wheel from 0 to 0.65max. The first differential can only be installed in the rear axle, because. wheel locks are not allowed on the front steering axle. The second differential can be put in the front axle. [sent by Grigory Serjantov] How does a car with self-locking differential behave on the road?

On dry or wet pavement, I did not feel the difference.
In winter, the car becomes completely different (than with simple ones), sharper or something, and strives to go along a large radius when cornering.
More resistant to drifts. Rather not, perhaps better controlled in a skid.
All of the above is my personal observation on a particular machine with 2 locks. Please tell me, is it possible to put military bridges from UAZ on GAZ-69 without significant alterations?

Can! We'll have to leave the native bipod of the steering column and the thrust from it to the right front wheel. If the shock absorbers are native (lever), then there will be no problems, but if you installed telescopic shock absorbers, you need to look in place.
About GAZ-69, see also in the section "Lyrics" and on this site. And what are "ELMO", "STELM" couplings, etc.? Are they needed?

Opinions AGAINST:

The disadvantage is poor protection against the ingress of dirt, sand, etc. - when clogged, you have to switch with pliers. May slip when moving backwards.
- It should be noted that in order for them to work normally, you need to drive about 10 meters. And they may no longer exist. Practice has shown that in this case it is enough to turn the front cardan back and forth, (but this is for those who want to dive, but you can do it this way, first turn on the back, a little, just a little, release the clutch, and then the third or fourth and also let go a little, it should be approximately as if you twisted the cardan with your hand without much effort, after that you can safely storm the govenets!
- It's better to turn native hub couplings long and tediously with a key than to sort out ELMO in the mud. [Pyatak]
- I threw out two sets of these couplings. I drive UAZ only in the mud, but as Ladoga showed, these clutches do not withstand mechanically. That year, the mounting bolts were sheared off in an ordinary swamp. This year, in the mud, when the wheels slipped, it tore all of it from the inside. If you operate the UAZ around the city and rarely, on weekends or holidays in the mud, then in my opinion regular ones are better. Turning the key twice a week is not scary. But if it’s always dirt, then asphalt and dirt, it’s not special, then duralumin switches are more convenient, but still unreliable.
- If the car is stuck and slips rear wheels, then if you turn on the "Elma", and then immediately the front axle, then when the elma slips, they will start to turn on and you will hear "trrrr" the axle shaft cuts the splines on the "Elma" and kirdyk, ay tractor! As an option, you can hang the wheel and twist it with your hands so that it snaps into place. Then the same on the other side. True, it is inconvenient and not always possible ... But it will come to the extreme If the car is paralyzed at all, then connecting the Elma is sometimes generally problematic, since for their reliable inclusion it is still necessary to ride a little (2-3 m) without including the front axle. This is especially true in winter and in the presence of a thick lubricant in Elmah, which is not recommended to be stuffed. But whatever one may say, there is no alternative, since you have to turn it on / off very often and the “regular” ratchet couplings, no matter how reliable they are, are still inconvenient. None of the above applies to sports cars, where they spend most of their lives in poop.. [Screeching]

Opinions FOR:

I've had it since birth, no problems. And there are similar ones, but imported ones. They look neater ... Put, in general. [Victor]
- Reliability of couplings. There were no issues with 33 wheels. After winter operation (did not turn it off), they sour to death. Dismantled, cleaned, poured liquid lubricant and went to Ladoga. Everything worked fine. But Deklomp broke off the clutch. About stone. [OlegM]
- I have already covered 19000 km. and I don't bother with them. They say that they pop up - I have not encountered this. They turn on normally, if you don’t swell lithol in them. And you can make them hermetic with your own hands. It's better for me than to oil the key every time. But if you don’t get out of the mud, then naturally the old ones are simpler and more reliable.

It is necessary to lubricate correctly:
There is no need to fill the clutch with lithol "for the most indulgent" nizya, and there is no need, since there are no (well, that's all) rubbing elements, I went through two types of clutches (outwardly different - the same inside) - and so there are no rubbing surfaces.
My advice is this:
DO NOT score, otherwise they will not turn on.
Lubricate with a thin layer of grease, to the level of "greasy" parts.
DO NOT lubricate with lithol - lithol is destroyed by moisture and becomes glue / putty / abrasive - anything but a lubricant.
Can be lubricated with fiol or even graphite grease.
Buy a waterproof lubricant if you have the money.

To protect against salt from above, you can use scraps of plastic cocoa cans with screw-on lids. The diameter is ideal for our products, as well as from Germany and Poland. All kinds of Nestle are not good for us: either too narrowly, or vice versa.

You can hang protective caps from one and a half liter plastic bottles on top and turn the clutch switch back and forth at least once every 2 weeks.

By the way, the covers for the couplings come out well from the anthers of the helmsmen from the bull, you just need to seal the hole with an elastic band, although if you wade through the bushes, you can lose it, it will rip off any ... And spread the ShRB well on top of the coupling. protects well from water.

First, the switch seal. I had a regular plastic oil seal (essno with a small interference). It is necessary to achieve a tight fit of the cuff along the inner diameter (for example, using electrical tape or fum tape to check how the cuff enters the body - it should be tight, but rotate by hand. Next, we collect all the insides, not forgetting to put the lock nut on the switch screw (I have it and the clutch "disassembled"). I generally used not a lubricant in the clutch, but a transmission. Well, when assembling, do not forget about the sealant :-) [Chief] What should be done so that the ELMO clutches do not automatically switch?

I turned on the ELMO couplings in the 4x2 position. After a few kilometers on the left wheel, the arrow turned out to be about 4x4. Turned on 4x2 again. It happened again. Moreover, the faster you go, the faster it jumps. Clearly, this is a disease. I disassembled the clutch, looked - and did not understand anything. He called a friend, although he is not UAZovod, but a very smart man. After a couple of minutes, he says - "make a recess here." In the design of the clutch there is a cup with three curly notches along the border of which, when switching 4x2-4x4, balls roll and remain in extreme positions. On the left clutch in the 4x2 position, the ball is where shown in the figure and, when moving, tends to move to the opposite corner. You just need to make a small recess under it for a clearer fixation. It helped me. [Anatoly Khokhryakov (HOHAN)]

The bridge is buzzing. What could it be?

If you are sure that it is the bridge that is buzzing, and not something else, then you need to sort it out. For some reason, our people believe that nothing can happen to the bridge :) - maybe, and how. On my old UAZ, the bridge buzzed terribly - when I got tired of it - I disassembled and found a broken axle shaft shank at the entrance to the bearing in the onboard gearbox - changed the axle shaft, at the same time changed the main pair (since I dismantled the bridge), several bearings and all oil seals - repair cost 10% of the cost of a new bridge - no rumble, fuel consumption has dropped sharply, etc. So don't do garbage - sort out the bridge. By the way, I recommend rolling out the bridge from under the car as an assembly, right on wheels - I, like a fool, took it apart in place - I got scared, then it dawned on me - I assembled it completely separately from the car, poured oil, etc. and rolled it back - it remains to attach shock absorber springs and brake pipes :).
The rumble comes from the main gear of the front axle. This is fine. After the first 4 thousand and changing the oil in the transmission (filled with TAD-17), the noise became much less. In winter snow covered road with the front axle turned on at a speed of 80-90 km / h, there is only a slight whistle. In my "Goat", unlike most, caps of unknown purpose are welded (or screwed) to the rear axle shafts (from the end). Does anyone know why they are needed and are they needed at all? The thing is, I want to put hubcaps on the rims, and because of these bulging tapered hubcaps, I'll have to cut an extra hole in the hubcaps. How would you rip them off? I tried to unscrew them, but nothing happened.

This is a constructive ineradicable feature of military bridges. These caps transmit the moment from the short axle shaft of the gearbox to the hub (it has splines inside). Most likely, you will have to make an extra hole. And you can still change the bridges. I recently saw strange hubs on the "loaf". The bridges are ordinary, civilian, and the axle shaft flange is fastened not with six, but with ten bolts (as in the military). What could it be?

I bought these hubs a year ago. They differ from the previous ones only in the number of holes and are quite compatible with them (six-bolt axle shafts sit on them without alterations). There should be absolutely no discrepancies on a normal hub and a normal axle shaft. Of these 10 holes, 6 are exactly the same as the old ones. The remaining 4 were added in the middle between them, and 2 gaps were left so that the removable bolts of the axle shaft rested there (there are 2 threaded holes in it to push it out of the hub if it sticks. These holes just need to be directed to holes in the 10-hole hub). And now no one sells or produces 6-hole hubs. And why, if they should stand up instead of 6-hole ones without alterations and refinements? How to adjust wheel bearing tightness?

There is a trick in bearings - if you tighten the first nut under the normal preload of the bearing, then the second one, when you start to counter, selects the slack in the thread and pinches the bearing. I adjust by removing the brake drum so that the single hub is and spins in the bearings after locking easily and evenly, without biting, i.e. evenly. If the bearing is slightly overtightened, then the rotation is jerky, as if on sand, the fingers feel it well.
Then I check with the wheel on - then the lever is large. October 2003 About SHRUS according to the Willis system

We have appeared in the sale of the front axle axle shaft (joint of unequal angular velocities) according to the Willis system (American). They differ from our relatives in that instead of five small stupid balls there is one big one. Grooves are made on it in two mutually perpendicular planes along the entire circumference. This groove includes two forks. Their advantages: they do not wear out at all (eternal system), in principle they cannot jam (which happens with relatives), a larger angle of rotation of the front wheels is possible. I have been standing for the fifth year, they have proven themselves great! They are cheaper than relatives. Produced, it seems to me, in Vyksa (Nizhny Novgorod region) [MISHA from Nizhny]

As far as I understand, kinematically, this is no different from the usual cardan joint. This means that it really has unequal angular velocities (which is worse than equal, like a native) and that the angle of rotation of the wheels is LESS than that of the native CV joint. Now, if the grooves did not lie in planes, but had a more complex shape, then this would completely change the matter. In addition, the most loaded surfaces there have sliding friction, and not rolling, as in native ones, which means that the lubricant is desirable, apparently hypoid (and not Litol) ... Wear resistance, for the same reason, is also doubtful. Another thing is that it is enough for relatives to wear out a little to jam, and these can, apparently, be worn out to the abrasion of the forks. I have a book on the history of the domestic automotive industry, and so a disk hinge is drawn there. It is kinematically equivalent, in my opinion, to two cardan shafts combined at one point. I don't remember exactly, but perhaps this design was called the "Willis-type hinge". This is a constant velocity joint, if only because it is symmetrical. And the angle of rotation of the wheels, apparently, is greater ... Signs that you need to adjust / replace the kingpins

When driving through bumps, when bouncing, bumps into the steering wheel.

You hang the wheel with a jack higher, take it from the bottom of the wheel (right at the ground) and start pulling towards you - away from you, i.e. along the axis of the bridge. If the play is small, then it is normal, if it is large, then you need to either deal with gaskets, or change everything. How to unscrew a rusted gearbox plug? After three years of riding on salt, the corks on the bridges have rusted tightly. 2 mm sticks out - you can’t grab it, the hexagonal slot has become round. I overcame one cork using the sadistic method - I drilled it out and picked out the remnants of the thread with taps - it took 2.5 days. Tell me, is there a less bloody way?

I took a vise (they had new, ribbed, hard alloy jaws) and dived under the car with them. The stump of the cork was clamped very tightly, putting a pipe on the vise handle. After that, I put a crowbar into the hole of the vise and jerked sharply, strongly. The plug has moved 1/6 turn. Next is the matter of technology.
You can also try to grab first with pliers (a semicircular part with a good notch), and then clamp the pliers with a vise. In this way, I have repeatedly turned out broken bolts and studs.

Believe me - the most correct: to weld a nut on a plug - it only seems difficult - in fact, the easiest way.
Cork during welding will ignite and sour. Easily unscrew with a simple head. Cork can be used further

These plugs are on sale. They are the same with our Volga, so you can try to look in GAZ stores.
Our standard sequence of actions was as follows:
1) you hammer in the hexagon by 13 (and completely break off the edges on the cork);
2) knock out the plug with a chisel counterclockwise (until it is flush with the bridge);
3) you weld a piece of iron (for example, a hexagon) and, trying to turn it off, (you tear it off several times);
4) drill a 12-14 mm hole in the cork (from now on, if the cork is filled, you can plug it with a piece of wood :) and cut the remaining ring in half and take it out in parts ... (Attention: taper threads on plugs!)
I want to unscrew the cork in the first stages The car "roars" at high speed. Shock absorbers, wheels, steering in order. What's the matter?

The symptom is very typical for a malfunction called "improper adjustment of wheel hub bearings" - increased play in them causes "yaw" of one or more wheels, which immediately affects directional stability. Apparently, you ... are constantly chasing "for 100", although chassis machines, and in particular wheel hubs, are not quite adapted for this. UAZ has a HUGE unsprung mass and a very stiff suspension! I advise you to revise the front wheels, probably there either big backlash, or in general - the destruction of separators, although in the latter case you would have heard this even on an UAZ.
Tighten the bearings EXACTLY according to the instructions - and not "until the backlash felt by the hand is eliminated", even if the wheel rotates a little tight - check later, by heating the hub. [Makhno]

I completely agree with Makhno about the hubs, but on exchange rate stability pivots, and especially bushings, can also significantly affect. Theoretically, there could be such a situation: the pivots could initially be put into the steering knuckles without bushings (what don’t we have?) At first they worked without bushings due to the fact that they were well pressed against knuckles. Worn out, the CV joints began to hang out. Hence exchange rate instability.
You need to do what Makhno advises - hang out the front wheels, sway in a vertical direction. If there is play, disassemble the hubs and tighten the bearings. If after that the backlash does not disappear, then engage in pivots. Wheel alignment

Here is one of the easy ways.
You find a suitable size (must pass freely with a gap of 5-30 mm between the wheels) stick, tube, etc. At worst, you can even use a thick branch of a suitable length. Then you make marks from the inside of the tires (in the middle between the tread and the edge of the disc) and measure the distance between them with a stick and a ruler (you measure the gap between the end of the stick and the sidewall with it. Then you roll the car so that the wheel makes 1/2 turn and again The difference in the readings of the ruler is the convergence.In this case, the gap in front should be less than in the back.
Ideally, 2 tubes are used, one of which fits into the other with a small gap [Chif] How do I remove the right upper king pin cover (with steering arm)?

This lever is very loaded, therefore, on the studs, under the nuts of its fastening, "crackers" are installed in special holes - hardened conical liners with a cut. They, when pressed with a nut from above, are squeezed around the stud rod, and provide a secure fastening of the lever. Over time, the whole thing gets very rusty from the water that gets there and, indeed, if this assembly was not assembled by itself, it can be very difficult to remove the lever - the croutons seem to bite themselves between the body of the lever and the pin. It is NOT necessary to heat this thing. The nuts must be removed, cleaned all around and find and clear the cuts on the "breadcrumbs" - pour WD-40 or kerosene around the studs, wait two hours, periodically watering more. But then - knock with a hammer (500 g) on the upper plane of the lever, from above. Put something on the hairpins so as not to break them off - you will be tormented to turn them out later. Periodically tap from the sides, but not hard. [Makhno] A few tips for disassembling the military bridge (to replace the CV joint)

For disassembly, you only need to unscrew the wheel, and half.
And I draw your attention: IT IS NECESSARY TO ASSEMBLE THE FINAL GEAR CASE OR WITH THE OLD GASKET OR WITH THE SAME AS IT STOOD IN THICKNESS. This is important for rolled gears.
AND DO NOT UNLOCK STILL UNLESS NECESSARY, fastening of the small roller bearing housing (2 bolts are similar to cardan) REASON THE SAME [Moose postal] Homemade kingpin puller

Take a piece of sheet steel, 100x150 and about 8-10 mm thick, drill an 11 mm hole in the center. AND EVERYTHING! To this, you also need an M10 bolt 80-10 mm long and a nut with a washer.
Procedure: remove the thrust plate, screw its bolts back, by hand, so that they protrude by 15 mm, put YOUR plate on top, screw the nut on the bolt and, placing the washer through the hole in the "puller", wrap it in the kingpin. Now, if, while holding the head of the bolt, rotate the nut, the king pin will EASILY come out. [Makhno]

We remove the trunnion, CV joint and from the inside we burst with something concrete or with a sledgehammer through the mandrel. Possibly with bushings. And you still need to unroll the bushings with a reamer ...
(folk recipes) "Volgovsky" bridges

We ... make combined bridges. The crankcase of the bridge is taken from the Volga 24s and UAZ stockings are pressed in, and the main pairs are put in different, but the most convenient ones from Gaz-21 (9x41 teeth). Such bridges run longer and more reliably, the UAZ does not lose power and becomes faster.

I remade my own bridge on my UAZ to GAZ-24. The speed has become much higher, the consumption of 11-12 liters. True, with a load of 600-800 kg a little heavy

An unexpected revelation for me was that the seals, in particular the hub ones, are corroded (Zh8ёprst) by ordinary lithol for some week there. The working edge does not remain at all, and the rest is smeared with black soot: (For myself, I concluded that before installation, the seals need to be held for a day or two in an environment similar to the one in which they will work (for example, in a mixture of Litol and TAD) and see what will happen. How to get rid of leaks through the hubs of bridges (provided that the breathers are in good condition and the seals are in order - (U))

What you need: red ABRO sealant, blue ABRO thread lock, solvent (you can use white spirit, kerosene, but gasoline is very undesirable!), if the hub cap bolts are badly worn, then new bolts, and some more rags. First, remove the covers, soak the bolts (even new ones) in a solvent, wipe the cover and hub with rags and solvent, wait until it dries. We take the sealant, and smear the cover and hub with a thin layer, then with a bare finger (aesthetes can wear rubber gloves or something else that fits in size :) we smear the sealant so that it lies in a thin, even layer. Yes, it is advisable to jack up the wheel to make it easier to align the holes in the cap and hub. We put on the cover, but not completely, by turning the wheel we combine the holes, take the bolts, wipe them clean, drip a lock onto the thread, and bait the bolts. Yes, GROVERS ARE NOT NEEDED AT ALL, it's better without them. Then evenly tighten the bolts and tighten them completely. The sealant should come out quite a bit, after curing, cut off the excess. You can’t drive right after that, it’s advisable not to lower the wheel to the ground for an hour. That's all. The whole operation takes a maximum of half an hour per wheel. No leaks, no loosening, which is what I wish you! [Roman aka Behemoth 4x4] Comparison of conventional ("civilian") bridges and "spicer" bridges

The "spicers":

On the machines "Hunter" and on the new machines of the 316x family, pins and CV joints of a new type are installed. Pivots of a new type are identified by healthy nuts on the caps of the pivots. See drawing.

Authorship - Voldy.

Bridges (central part) MTZ-82 + final drives from T-40. Installed "native" self-locking locks from MTZ in both bridges. Rubber 36"

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