ATV front suspension blueprints. We assemble a homemade ATV from an eye car

A considerable number of offers on the ATV market for young drivers today allow you to choose a modification with different characteristics and for any wallet. If you are not ready to spend an impressive amount to purchase an ATV, have a creative streak, minimal technical knowledge and some special skills, you can make an ATV for a child with your own hands. Of course, you will need some tools.

On the Internet you can find many interesting ideas for an ATV, perhaps you have your own ideas. Their implementation will surely bring you great joy of creativity and will allow you to get an original ATV at minimal financial cost.

How to make an ATV for a child with your own hands

A children's ATV can be made independently from old motor vehicles and additional spare parts. The main thing is that what you have done vehicle It was safe - after all, we are talking about children! If you plan to use new parts, then choose only high-quality ones, and used materials need the most critical evaluation. This is especially true for fasteners: bolts, screws, etc.

What will be required to create a children's all-terrain vehicle?

First of all, decide on appearance your unique ATV and its dimensions. You can make an off-road unit for a child of any complexity - it all depends on your knowledge and skills. If you don't want to spend months building an electric quad bike, opt for a simpler design - in the future, as your child grows, it can be improved.

The basis of any vehicle is the frame. A do-it-yourself frame drawing of a children's ATV is necessary in order to maintain the accuracy of the dimensions of all structural elements. Surely you can make a drawing yourself. If you're looking to strengthen and upgrade your ATV in the future, then the frame should have a good margin of safety in suspension. Can be used as a square profile for the frame right size(for example, 25x25mm), a ¾ inch pipe or a finished structure from a donor model - it all depends on your desire, imagination and possibilities. If the frame is made independently, pay attention to the quality of the welds.

wheels, brake system and the steering system, shock absorbers - the next step in assembling an ATV for a child. Most masters recommend choosing new wheels - you can, for example, take wheels for karting or even for a garden wheelbarrow Ø320 mm. If you are making an ATV for an older child, he will probably want to ride it off-road - then choose wheels with a wide tread and buy stamped wheels (albeit the simplest ones). This will increase the safety of the ATV and allow the child to overcome serious obstacles.

Two-wheel drive for a children's ATV from an electric motor of sufficient power through a gearbox (homemade or ready-made) - good decision. The throttle button on the steering wheel will please your young driver and make the children's ATV look like a real one. The steering system is an important element to ensure the safety of the little driver and ensure that he can easily control his box.

Do-it-yourself electric ATV: engine and battery

Battery and motor for homemade ATV choose based on the capabilities and needs of the driver. So, you can use a couple of engines from the Volga or a screwdriver, take an electric motor from a donor vehicle (for example, an electric scooter) or use your own idea. The main thing is that the electric motor provides sufficient speed for the child - the smallest will be enough for 5-8 km / h, older children will need more speed, which means that the engine is more powerful.

As for the battery, it is important to install it in such a way that there is no need to disassemble the entire structure for recharging. A battery from a donor scooter, an uninterruptible power supply or another one that you can find will do.

When all the main components are assembled, it's time to deal with the appearance of the ATV - after all, aesthetics are extremely important for the baby. Ideally, you can use body kit elements from an old non-working model of a children's ATV, but your imagination can tell you other original ideas.

Working on assembling an ATV will not only allow you to get a unique vehicle for little money. It will bring pleasure not only to adults, but also to children, since making a children's ATV with your own hands is an exciting, very interesting and useful activity for every man.

Editor

"Children's ATVs"

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We present the ATV of our regular author S. Pletnev from the city of Ocher, Perm Territory. Another machine built by him testifies to the increased design level and professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself...

A year has passed since, when leaving the garage, I tried my first ATV with rear-wheel drive (). And then the thought came: why not now make an all-wheel drive ATV (from the English. All Terrain Vehicle - all-terrain vehicle; similar machines received such an international designation).

Fortunately, at that time a buyer turned up for a buggy (), and the proceeds went to the implementation of a new project.

Year of work for 3 - 4 hours after work and on weekends - and new car was ready for testing, there were only small (and I would say pleasant) improvements: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other little things.

The power unit for my ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid-cooled. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.

Machine frame - spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipelines with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, cross members, etc.) - from VGT-20. The spars are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical one. He bent pipes on a pipe bender, "to the cold." Eyelets (pairs of ears) for attaching the levers and shock absorbers of the suspension were welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets - as the components and assemblies were mounted (in "place").

1 - front wheel(from the car "Chevrolet-Niva", 2 pcs.);

2 - engine (from the car "Oka");

3 - front wheel drive transmission;

4 - gearbox (from the car "Oka");

5 - rear wheel drive transmission;

7 - rear wheel(from the car "Chevrolet-Niva", 2 pcs.);

8 - fuel tank(20 liter canister);

9 - rear trunk;

10 - silencer;

11 - passenger backrest (headrest from the Oka car);

12 - saddle;

13 - clutch basket (from the Oka car);

14 - gear lock lever;

15 - body kit (fiberglass);

16 - steering wheel (from the Ural motorcycle);

17 - instrument panel (from the car "Oka");

18 - front trunk

The transmission of the all-terrain vehicle is peculiar. Although the car is all-wheel drive, but transfer box it doesn't. As you know, in the "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheels (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. That's just myself power unit, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal articulated shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.

The transmission is assembled from units of various domestic cars, mostly "VAZ" models. But ready-made industrial units also had to be finalized. For example, from the gearbox (from Oka), to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod also made another one - elongated, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The stem can be fixed in three positions: for engaging 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is located with right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.

Interwheel reducers - from rear axles VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts along with the "stockings" were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints as hinges are also used in the remaining intermediate shafts of the transmission.

1 - motor (from the car "Oka");

2 - clutch (from the car "Oka");

3 - gearbox;

4 - CV joint (from the car VAZ-2108, 12 pcs);

5 - final drive gearbox with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);

6 - shaft (from a VAZ-2108 car, 6 pcs.);

7 - wheel (from the car "Chevrolet-Niva")

low gear and no diff lock.

Steering - motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automotive type(with steering rods) - below, only simplified, without steering mechanism, with one bipod. The steering wheel was first used from a Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and installed from the Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. At the lower end it has a stroke limiter. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.

The bipod is made of steel sheet 8 mm thick in a shape resembling the letter "T". A hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made at the edge of the "rack" - a steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for ball tips of steering rods. These holes are reinforced with suitable welded washers. The lugs of the bipod are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.

Wheels - 15-inch, from the Chevrolet Niva car. Tires with appropriate rim size 205/70 (width/height as a percentage of width) with off-road tread pattern. The running diameter of the wheel is about 660 mm.

1 - lower spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);

2 - upper spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);

3 - rack (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

4 - support of the rear upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);

5 - rear brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

6 - support of the front upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

7 - front brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

8 - top support front shock absorber(corner 35×35);

9 - rack of the upper support of the front shock absorber (sheet s5, 2 pcs.);

10 - front engine mount support post (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

11 - rear support leg of the engine mount (sheet s3.2 pcs.);

12 - eyelets for fastening levers and shock absorbers of suspensions (sheet s5, 18 pairs);

13 - saddle mounting bracket (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

14 - upper cross connection (pipe d20x2.8);

15 - lower cross connection (pipe d20x2.8.2 pcs.);

16 - radiator support (pipe d25x3.2 cut in half lengthwise, 2 pcs.);

17 - front console of the steps (pipe d20x2);

18 - rear console of the steps (pipe d20x2);

19 - connection of the front and rear consoles of the steps (pipe d20x2);

20 - footrest cross member (sheet s5, 4 pcs.);

21 - lug for fastening a fiberglass body kit (sheet s5, set)

Wheel suspension - independent, on two triangular transverse levers each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). The levers are welded from round tubes of VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car "Oka" (rear). Wheel hubs are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers and steering knuckles- from the car VAZ-2109. Both of them had to be improved. I installed wheel studs from the Niva in the hubs, and home-made swing arms in the front fists.

Silencer - self-made, two-section. To protect against temperature warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.

ATV body kit - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for the implementation of the relevant work. But as it turned out - this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

(a - the upper arm of the front suspension; b - lower arm front suspension; c - lower arm rear suspension; g - the upper arm of the rear suspension; all parts, except for those noted specifically, are made of VGT-20 pipe):

1 - beam (2 pcs.);

2 - cross member;

3 - bushing (pipe d37x32, 2 pcs.);

4 - shock absorber mounting eye (steel, sheet s3);

5 - ball joint (from the steering rod of the Zhiguli car)

First, I made the required body kit contours from a steel square pipe with a section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe easily bends even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be possible to cut off the “tacks” without difficulty. Then he bent the “wings” from hardboard (fibreboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend turned out to be steep, he attached separate strips from the same hardboard. The front end was removed with expanded polystyrene purchased at a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene foam or the same mounting foam, but polystyrene foam turned out to be a more suitable material - it is well cut with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a common structure on a mounting foam.

1 - steering shaft (pipe d20x2.8);

2 - steering wheel connection plate (steel, sheet s6);

3 - brace of the plate (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

4 - detachable bracket-sleeve of the steering shaft (kapron, sheet s18);

5 - support washer (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

6 - bipod (steel, sheet 18);

7 - steering limiter (steel, sheet s6);

8 - bearing housing;

9 - thrust tip (steel, circle 15);

10 - thrust bearing

Falshbak - complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of the hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill the place intended for it with layers of mounting foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise the thick volume of foam may not dry inside. Filled in until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse-grained sandpaper.

Under the dashboard, a part went into action dashboard"Oki". I fixed it on the blank, too, with the help of mounting foam. Since the foam is large-pored, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to correspond to the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the block, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, then plastering and painting the block could be neglected.

So, the blockhead is ready and in order to glue a quality product, it took: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 linear meters of thin fiberglass, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. It is highly recommended to wear respiratory protective equipment. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable. But experience, as you know, you can’t buy, so I gained it in the process of work.

I used transparent adhesive tape as a separating layer between the block and the product. Carefully, without gaps, he pasted over the whole blockhead with stripes. It took only 1.5 rolls of wide tape.

I diluted the resin by 200 - 300 grams with a hardener and a plasticizer. I used measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before that, I cut strips of fiberglass in such sizes that large canvases lay on even surfaces, and on irregularities, pieces of fabric could repeat them without making wrinkles. By the way, the fiberglass moderately stretches along the diagonal of the weaves, “flowing around” the desired shape.

First, he thickly smeared one section of the blockhead with epoxy resin, put fiberglass on it and impregnated it again with resin on top. I glued the adjacent piece of fabric using the same technology with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm. I had to work quickly - the resin sets quite quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, I also heated the resin a little near a powerful lighting lamp for better fluidity.

After wrapping the blockhead with fiberglass in one layer, I began to glue it with glass mat. I got the glass mat thick enough, and it turned out to be good for them to gain the thickness of the product. But it does not hug bumps, so I used it only on flat (or with a slight deflection) surfaces and without overlap. Impregnation with resin was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. It should only be taken into account that it takes a lot of resin to impregnate a stackomat, so you need to dilute it more. Uneven surfaces after gluing the stackomat were glued in several layers with a cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had set a little so that the resin did not leak. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day break, it was necessary to “roughen” the surface with large sandpaper and degrease it - after all, the resin is completely cured during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even in one layer.

Trunks:

a - front; b - rear

Since I needed a surface, as they say, the smoother the better, and there was not enough experience, dips and pits still remained - I filled them somewhere with one resin, and where with the imposition of pieces of fiberglass. Resin was a bit lacking. I bought more already in the hardware store, in boxes. I liked working with it more, because it was already packaged, and all that remained was to mix the components. And it dried faster than purchased at the company.

After the glued body kit had completely dried, I made cuts in it, dividing the product into three parts: rear fenders and back, false tank with underseat, front fenders and front. Carefully, slightly prying and pulling with his hands with picking, he separated the product in parts without much effort from the blockhead.

Now, having removed the parts, I began to process them separately, bringing them to the desired result. In general, the usual preparatory and painting work on the "whole" technology: first, rough grinding with the removal of large bulges of resin and fiberglass; then painstaking sealing of recesses with putty with fiberglass; then grinding the outer surface and priming with a plasticizer. In conclusion - painting with "metallic" and varnishing with a plasticizer.

Blockhead also neatly cut off and put in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded "in place" mounts on the frame.

In conclusion, I welded front and rear trunks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them, “kenguryatniks” that replace bumpers.

Main data of ATV:

Weight, kg…………………………………………430

Length, mm………………………………………2300

Width, mm

(along the outer sidewalls of tires)………1250

Height, mm:

on the steering wheel……………………………………….1250

on the saddle………………………………………..900

Ground clearance, mm…………………….300

Base, mm…………………………………………1430

Track, mm………………………………………1045

Maximum speed, km/h…………….65

S. PLETNEV, Ocher, Perm Territory

Any ATV experiences a heavy load when moving, and therefore, in order to ensure proper conditions for movement, manufacturers try to create the most durable frame possible. It is the frame that must withstand not only the weight of the ATV and the driver, but also sharp falls and maneuvers. The frame is created according to a special drawing; well-known Japanese and Chinese companies make the frame reliable and have an excellent functional design. But if it is not possible to buy a branded model, and the desire to ride off-road is great, we suggest making an ATV yourself, while some structural details will be no worse than foreign analogues.

ATV frame sizes usually differ depending on the technical properties of the model. If the equipment has a simple engine and it must withstand the load of 1 person, a small, strong frame will be optimal. For example, the Stealth 800 ATV frame has a length of 2,088 mm and a width of 1,213 mm, which is already an excellent indicator. But another representative of the Irbis 200U received a length of 1,760 mm and a width of 1,060 mm. That is a significant difference.

In addition to these requirements, the frame must be welded and made of durable materials. Usually use round steel pipes and metal profile, they can withstand heavy load best. If you bought equipment of a certain brand, then regardless of specifications the frame must have mandatory design features. Also, many are wondering where is the frame number on the ATV? It must be mandatory, so there is no standard location. Usually try to look for the frame number under the seat, many have it on the bottom front. And others advise looking at the frame number on the right side under the front lever. You will have to find the frame number, without this data you will not be able to register your ATV.

DIY ATV frame

If you decide to create a four-wheeled all-terrain vehicle with your own hands, the first thing to do is to create a frame. Experts advise using frames from the Urals and the Oka car, they are better amenable to change. If you do not have the specified technique, use standard schemes and create an ATV frame from steel pipes and a metal profile. Sometimes, if you have a Ural motorcycle around its frame, you will additionally have to install homemade frame. This is a big plus when creating an ATV, because it is possible to install a native Ural engine on a motorcycle frame, and additional frame will create the design of a real ATV. If you do not know how to weld a frame for an ATV, first study the diagram below. After that, you can consult with a welder or mechanic who can quickly weld all the details for you.

As you can see, the ATV frame diagram below is quite standard and has a simple design, the main thing is to perform all the processes correctly. In the case of using a frame from the Urals with an additional frame made of pipes, such a design will be much simpler. The fact is that the motorcycle frame will already be with a finished box, engine and other elements without additional welding, and the installed frame will directly hold the wheels and the driver.

Today, four-wheeled units are gaining more and more popularity. But not everyone can afford to buy such a device. Then the question arises of how to make an ATV with your own hands. The creation process itself is very exciting, and finding components is not at all difficult. Therefore, if you have a desire, feel free to get to work.

Before starting work, a clear visual representation of the future design is necessary. Drawings of homemade ATVs vary in accordance with the tasks of the owner and the features of further use (carriage of goods, passing rough terrain, etc.). After studying the basic schemes and structures, draw your own project for creating a four-wheeled bike. An illustrative example will serve as the basis for the work and help explain to specialists what is required of them.

Certainly, homemade work loses to established brands. However, if you choose the right materials and assemble compatible parts, then you get a completely powerful unit that can compete with competitors. Moreover, you will save a lot.

Work process

The first step is to make drawings of an ATV with your own hands. Put the maximum amount of effort into creating sketches. They are needed to determine necessary spare parts and cost calculation.

After creating a drawing, start buying accessories. Usually their main composition includes:

• frame - the main structure on which the entire unit will rest;
• pipes of various lengths and diameters to ensure the operation of the system;
• rolled metal, for the installation of shields, protection and other things;
• shock absorbers;
• engine and its components.

The easiest way to make an ATV is with special equipment. If this is not available, the best option would be to contact specialists with ready-made drawings. Not only will they do a good job, but they will be able to adjust inconsistencies details and mechanisms.

The frame should be made individually, according to the dimensions of the intended device. However, if you wish, you can take a simple frame from a motorcycle or car. Russian production. The easiest way is to make an ATV from the Oka with your own hands. Because near the Oka wheelbase not great, this allows you to simplify the work of fitting sizes.

Suspension and shock absorbers from cars and bikes are also great for future crafts. Considering that ATVs are designed to move on difficult terrain, shock absorbers from a Minsk or Dnepr moped will be an excellent option.

Brakes are a very important part of the design. They are not worth saving. Create an ATV with your own hands, 4x4 drive, better with a brake system from VAZ. Their strength is designed for cars, so a light four-wheeled bike will respond perfectly to such a system.

The steering wheel can be taken from any motorcycle. It is desirable that weights be installed on it to reduce vibration from the operation of the motor and movement on rocky terrain. This will reduce squeezing and hand fatigue when traveling.

Depending on which method of operation you choose, you need to choose wheels with a wear calculation. For trips on ordinary roads, simple wheels from the Oka are suitable. However, if you want to achieve good off-road flotation, it is worth investing in specialized wheels and tires from manufacturers.

And most importantly, the engine. Best Option for the role of a motor, engines from motorcycles IZH Jupiter or Planet will become. It won't do new motor. Their simple device will help you easily replace worn and broken parts. At the same time, do not forget about cooling. Need to pick up perfect option for different climatic conditions. Active cooling is perfect, which, unfortunately, was not used on motorcycles.

Homemade ATV from Oka, the drawings of which, depending on the operating conditions, must contain optional equipment, can be equipped fog lights, a toolbox (very useful in case of breakage) or a winch.

Construction assembly

After creating the drawings and selecting the material, you can begin to create the unit. First of all, a frame is created, on which all the details will subsequently be installed. It is advisable to use the most durable and corrosion-resistant materials when working. When riding off-road, the durable construction will save your engine from breakdown more than once.
Next comes the installation of the chassis. Here it is necessary to show the accuracy of the assembly, since the coordinated work of all wheels and shock absorbers will provide good dynamics and device stability.

Then proceed to install the engine and its components. In case of inconsistency of mechanisms, in no case use brute force. This will lead to subsequent problems in the work. After connecting the engine to the box, connect fuel system. The fuel tank can be made with a margin, which will ensure the possibility of long trips.

Now you need to install electrical equipment. At this stage, wires are laid, headlights, signal lights and other consumer elements are installed.

After completing the main work, you can proceed to the cladding and body kit. It is up to you to use metal or plastic sheets when installing the body kit, but it is recommended choose according to the weight load on the engine. With sufficient power, a couple of kilograms will not be noticeable. The seats are best installed with a hydraulic cushion, but you will have to pay extra for this, because during a long drive on a bad road, vibration mitigation will provide additional comfort.

This is the easiest way to make a homemade Oka 4x4 ATV. The main thing in the work is the right balance of finances and opportunities. After all, if you want to create an equal four-wheeled bike without calculating the costs, you risk leaving your work unfinished.

An ATV is actually any four-wheeled vehicle, since in Latin "quadro" - "four", In the vastness of the CIS, this name most often means all-wheel drive, representing a symbiosis of a motorcycle and a car. From a motorcycle, an ATV took over mobility, maneuverability, lightness, speed, and from a car - excellent cross-country ability, power and controllability. The result is a unique vehicle designed for a variety of purposes.

The domestic market provides only foreign models of ATVs, the cost of which is often sky-high. At the same time, on secondary market transport, you can easily find used motorcycles and cars at an extremely low price.

For example, the Ural motorcycle - large, bulky, heavy and "gluttonous" has an excellent four-stroke engine with reverse gear and is worth every penny. For this reason, it is much cheaper and more interesting for enthusiasts to create their own designs of these SUVs.

A typical factory representative of ATVs - shiny, neatly assembled, strong and powerful.

His home-made counterpart, which is slightly inferior in appearance, and even more so in terms of power.

How to make an ATV with your own hands

Before starting the assembly, it is necessary to compile a detailed list of units and parts that will be needed to create your own offspring, develop a work plan and design drawing.

Engine: the best choice

It is logical that, first of all, it is necessary to find the "heart" of the future "beast" - the power unit. Absolutely anyone will do, from a conventional walk-behind tractor to a six-liter V12 - there are such precedents. In most cases, motorcycle engines are used - they are economical and small-sized.

To use high gear ratios in normal operation, the engine "Minsk" or "Ural" will be enough. In summer, the issue of overheating arises, so air-cooled models should be chosen. Another good option is boxer engines Soviet-made, an indisputable plus of which is powerful traction and a completely unpretentious driveline.

Suspensions: back and front

There are two most common ATV rear suspension solutions.

1. Reduction-cardan system. The design turns out to be as lightweight and simple as possible, but there is no differential, which, in principle, can be sacrificed for the sake of the previously named advantages.
2. Use of a road bridge. The design turns out to be extremely heavy, and if there is no desire to have an ATV with an automobile base, it is necessary to shorten the bridge, which is a very non-trivial task. Of the pluses, it is worth highlighting only the presence of a differential, which is useful when moving along the tracks.

There are huge possibilities for front suspension and steering. ATV suspension arms carry a significantly lower load than automobile ones, respectively, they can be made independently using improvised means for this. The best option- creation of a suspension on the basis of the existing motorcycle "Ural".

Frame: drawings and alternative

The best solution is a solid construction of pipes or profiles welded together.

Ideal - remove the frame from the donor motorcycle and weld it up necessary elements- this eliminates a number of problems, but the design may turn out to be unnecessarily complex.

ATV assembly

Having prepared necessary tools, donor vehicles and freeing up time, you can start creating your own ATV:

Thanks to a reliable, time-tested design, excellent power and traction, it is the Ural motorcycle that is the most popular donor for homemade ATVs.

Video clip: "Wasp" 4x4

The video below describes the design of a homemade ATV, its characteristics, properties and features.

Photo review

Photos of ATVs based on domestic motorcycles and cars:

As you can see, using the outdated and inexpensive achievements of the Soviet automobile industry, you can create amazing vehicles that will amuse your pride and satisfy most transport tasks.