In most publications on the topic of constructing a device with your own hands, it is advised not to purchase the necessary components and assemblies, but to use components that have served their time from various household appliances. The decision is perfectly reasonable. The most popular is the electric motor from an outdated or failed washing machine.
Such engines are suitable for assembling a variety of technical devices. It's easy to dismantle them. But with the connection of such an electric motor to a 220-volt network, questions often arise. We will analyze the options for the correct connection and application different types electric motors from washing machines.
How to connect an electric motor from a washing machine
Use of engines
There are quite a few options for how to use high-speed electric motor for a washing machine in the case when the automatic washing machine has already served its purpose. AT household you always need a device that can sharpen knives, scissors and other tools. Such a device can be made independently if you correctly connect the electric motor from the washing machine and securely fix the grindstone on it.
If you are engaged in construction or plan to work with concrete, then you can make a vibrator, which, using the engine from the washing machine, will help shrink the concrete. There are craftsmen who have adapted an electric motor to create a vibrating table, and with its help, paving slabs or cinder blocks are made at home. And also the motor from the old washer will find application for various agricultural purposes. This could be, for example, a fresh grass chopper or a grain crusher. It will be possible to prepare good fodder for poultry, it will also be possible to make preparations for animals for the winter, to process weeds.
It can be concluded that application range the electric motor is very diverse, most importantly, it is possible to rotate various nozzles. You can also put into action some designed devices and mechanisms. In any case, you need to know how to connect the engine from the washing machine.
Collector motor
Now the industry produces a very large number of different brands and modifications of washing machines. The engines of these machines also have a different design; a different number of wires can depart from them. Accordingly, the schemes for connecting the electric motors of these machines to the 220 volt network may vary.
Consider the wires extending from the collector motor. All wires coming out of the engine have different colors and terminate at a terminal block or connector. The first two white wires on the terminal block (left) are located. These wires are needed to connect a tachometer so that you can measure the speed of the electric motor. In our case, we will not use them.
For control, you can measure the resistance of the loop of these wires with a multimeter. It should be 70 ohms. Next, let's decide on the stator winding. On the terminal block, after the white wires, there should be a wire in red insulation, and then in brown. This should be the stator wires. And also to eliminate the error, we will ring them with a multimeter. The resistance should be close to zero. The remaining two wires, usually gray (blue) and green, go to the motor brushes.
In order to connect such engine to the network ~ 220 volts it should be remembered that engines of this type are used without the use of a starting capacitor. By installing a jumper between one of the stator wires and the wire coming from the brush, the mains voltage is applied to the other pair of wires. The motor should start spinning. In order to change the direction of rotation of the electric motor, it is enough to switch the jumper to another brush.
Asynchronous motor
- Option 1
How to start the engine from an old type washing machine? Motors of this type are somewhat more difficult to connect. If you decide to connect a motor for this type of washing machine, then you will definitely need a multimeter. Motors of this type have two windings. One of the windings is working, the other is starting.
Initially, you need to determine these windings, that is, you need to determine the pairs of wires that ring through each other. This work is done with a multimeter in dial mode. Further, with a multimeter in the resistance measurement mode, you need to determine the resistance of the windings and write the result on paper. The winding with the least resistance is the working winding.
To connect such an engine, you need a button without fixing or start relay. For an error-free connection, it is desirable that you have a diagram of how to connect the engine from an old type washing machine. Connecting the motor from the washing machine to 220 can be described as follows. A voltage of ~ 220 volts is applied to the working winding of the motor. The same voltage is also applied to the starting winding, only through the start button or relay for a short period of time. After the engine starts to rotate, the button must be released. In order for the motor to start rotating in the opposite direction (reverse), you need to reverse the phasing of the applied voltage.
- Option 2
Previously, there was another type of engine. Outwardly, they do not differ from motors with two windings. These models had a power of 100-120 watts and a speed of 2700-2850 rpm. and used in centrifuge drive. Such engines had a so-called working capacitor, that is, it was constantly on. Due to the fact that the centrifuge did not need to change the direction of rotation, the connection of the windings was made inside the motor housing, and only three wires, often of the same color, came out of it.
The winding resistance of such motors was the same. This type of motor is connected according to the following scheme. One of the terminals and the middle point of the windings are switched on to the network 220 volts, the other output is connected to the first output through a capacitor.
When you make any device from the engine of a washing machine, be sure to pay attention to the serviceability and prevention of this device during operation. The main malfunctions of electric motors occur due to overload or in the event of worn bearings. Therefore, you need to pay attention to all the nuances of the device in a timely manner.
Hello my dear readers. You probably noticed that many “somodelkins” often began to meet collector electric motors from automatic washing machines. But they are not in a hurry to put such engines on their devices, not because they don’t know how to connect, but because not everyone knows how such engines drive under load, whether it is possible to adjust the engine speed. If it is possible to regulate the speed, then how, and whether the power of the collector electric motor decreases. And if it falls, then how to achieve it in order to maintain the power of the electric motor during speed control, etc. So today we’ll talk about how to properly connect collector electric motors from washing machines, and consider how such motors behave under load and how they are regulated rpm of this engine.
First of all, it is single-phase commutator motor with series excitation of the windings. To operate this type of motor, both alternating and direct current can be used - and therefore they can be considered universal. Despite the different appearance, they have the same device. They consist of a stator with an excitation winding, an armature, brushes, a housing and a tachogenerator. A terminal block is used to output all wires.
The operation of this type of electric motor is based on the interaction of the magnetic fields of the stator and armature when an electric current passes through them.
To make the simplest connection, you can only know the outputs of the stator and armature windings. But how to find out where are the outputs on the terminal block, if their number can reach 10. To do this, we take a regular tester,
We put the regulator knob in the position of least resistance, and we begin to call the windings of the tachogenerator (tachometer), stator and armature (winding resistance from 3 to 200 ohms). I had a motor at hand with 6 leads to terminal blocks with 2 ohm resistances (stator); 4.4 ohm (armature); 165 Ohm (tachogenerator).
Now you need to determine where the tachogenerator outputs are located, for this you need to take the same tester, turn its knob to the variable voltage position and connect it to the terminals that ring among themselves, turning the armature by hand, on the tachogenerator terminals when turning the armature, the tester will show the presence of voltage.
Be careful, on engines, instead of a tachogenerator (two outputs), a Hall sensor is sometimes used (three outputs, determined by the tester at the position of least resistance, the tester first shows some resistance, and then it disappears). The armature leads are determined by ringing between the collector itself and the terminals on the block. Stator by elimination. The connection diagram using the terminal block looks like this: we put a jumper between one of the stator and armature terminals, and we apply voltage to the remaining two terminals. If you are sure that the electric motor from the washing machine is in perfect order, you can connect it directly to the network, and if you are not sure about the origin of the electric motor, then connect the engine in series with the simplest electric iron.
If, during connection, the collector motor slowly picks up speed, and there is no crackling during operation, there is no strong sparking on the brushes - this means that the collector motor is completely ready for operation and can be connected to a 220 Volt network.
And so by connecting the engine directly to the network with a tachometer, we check the speed (it showed more than 12000 rpm for me), after which we try to give it a load (for the load I used a piece of board which I pressed on the motor shaft).
I didn’t manage to crush such an engine (the board started to burn), and the speed at the same time fell by half.
There are many ways to adjust the speed on collector electric motors, the speed can be adjusted using LATR, speed control boards from household appliances (vacuum cleaners, mixers, etc.), buttons from power tools, a lighting timer (dimmer) in general, all devices that regulate voltage.
We see that the speed is easily regulated when the voltage changes with such devices. With this connection, a significant drawback appears as a large drop in engine power (at a speed of 600 rpm, the shaft is easily stopped by hand).
Such speed control is not always suitable (it will do for fans and pumps) for widespread use for home-made machines and various devices. In this case, the tachogenerator, which is installed on the engine from the washing machine, will come to our aid. Which will report the number of revolutions of the armature, and transfer them to the microcircuit, and that, in turn, will regulate the power and revolutions of the engine through the triac. Here is an example of a circuit that can be easily repeated at home (more about the circuit here):
A small preface.
In my workshop, there are several home-made machines built on the basis of asynchronous motors from old Soviet washing machines.
I use motors with both "capacitor" start and motors with start winding and start relay (button)
When connecting, I sometimes used an ohmmeter (to find the starting and working windings).
But more often he used his experience and the method of "scientific poke"%)))
Perhaps by such a statement I will not incur the wrath of the "knowledgeable" who "always do everything according to science" :))).
But this method also gave a positive result for me, the engines worked, the windings did not burn out :).
Of course, if there is "how and what" - then you need to do "the right way" - this is me about having a tester and measuring the resistance of the windings.
But in reality, it doesn’t always work out that way, but “who doesn’t take risks ...” - well, you understand :).
Why am I talking about this?
Just yesterday I received a question from my viewer, I will omit some points of the correspondence, leaving only the essence:
I tried to start it as you said through the starting relay (I touched the wire for a short time), but after a while of work it starts to smoke and get warm. I don’t have a multimeter, so I can’t check the resistance of the windings (
Of course, the method that I will now talk about is a little risky, especially for a person who does not deal with such work all the time.
Therefore, you need to be extremely careful, and at the first opportunity to check the results of the "scientific poke" with the help of a tester.
Now to business!
First, I will briefly talk about the types of engines that were used in Soviet washing machines.
These engines could be conditionally divided into 2 classes in terms of power and rotation speed.
In the bulk of activator washing machines of the "bowl with a motor" type, to drive activator used engine 180 W, 1350 - 1420 rpm.
As a rule, this type of engine had 4 separate pins(starting and working windings) and connected via protective relay or (in very old versions) through a 3-pin start button Photo 1.
| Photo 1 Start button. |
Separate conclusions of the starting and working windings allowed be able to reverse(for different washing modes and preventing the laundry from curling).
To do this, in the machines of later models, a simple command device was added that switches the engine connection.
There are motors with a power of 180 W, in which the starting and working windings were connected in the middle of the body, and only three outputs came to the top (photo 2)
 |
| Photo 2 Three winding leads. |
Second type engines used in the drive centrifuges so he had high speed, but less power - 100-120 watts, 2700 - 2850 rpm.
Centrifuge motors usually had a constantly on, working capacitor.
Since the centrifuge did not need to be reversed, the connection of the windings was usually made in the middle of the engine. Came to the top only 3 wires.
Often these engines windings are the same, so the resistance measurement shows approximately the same results, for example, between 1 - 2 and 2 - 3 output, the ohmmeter will show 10 ohms, and between 1 - 3 - 20 ohms.
In this case, pin 2 will be the midpoint at which the pins of the first and second windings converge.
The motor is connected as follows:
pins 1 and 2 - to the network, pin 3 through the capacitor to pin 1.
By appearance engines of Activators and Centrifuges are very similar, since the same cases and magnetic circuits were often used for unification. The motors differed only in the type of windings and the number of poles.
There is also a third launch option, when the capacitor is connected only at the time of start but they are quite rare, I have such engines on washing machines did not come across.
The schemes for connecting 3-phase motors through a phase-shifting capacitor stand apart, but I will not consider them here.
So, back to the method that I used, but before that, one more small digression.
Motors with starting winding
usually have different parameters of the starting and working winding.
This can be defined as resistance measurement windings, and visually - starting winding has a wire smaller section and her resistance is higher,
If you leave the starting winding turned on for a few minutes, she can burn out,
as during normal operation it connects only for a few seconds.
For example, the resistance of the starting winding can be 25 - 30 ohms, and the resistance of the working winding - 12 - 15 ohms.
During operation, the starting winding - should be disabled otherwise, the engine will hum, heat up and quickly "smoke".
If the windings are correctly defined, the motor may be slightly warm when running without load for 10 to 15 minutes.
But if you confuse starting and working windings - the engine will also start, and when the working winding is turned off, it will continue to work.
But in this case he will also buzz, warm up and not deliver the required power.
Now let's move on to practice.
First you need to check the condition of the bearings and the absence of distortion of the engine covers. To do this, simply turn the motor shaft.
From a light push, it should rotate freely, without jamming, making several turns.
If everything is fine - go to the next stage.
We need a low-voltage probe (a battery with a light bulb), wires, an electric plug and an automatic machine (preferably 2-pole) for 4 - 6 Amperes. Ideally - also an ohmmeter with a limit of 1 mΩ.
Durable cord half a meter long - for the "starter", masking tape and a marker for marking engine wires.
First you need to check the engine for ground fault alternately checking the engine leads (by connecting an ohmmeter or a light bulb) between the leads and the housing.
The ohmmeter should show resistance within mOhm, the bulb not should burn.
Next, we fix the engine on the table, assemble the power circuit: plug - automatic - wires to the engine.
We mark the outputs of the engine by gluing flags from adhesive tape on them.
We connect the wires to terminals 1 and 2, wind the cord around the motor shaft, turn on the power and pull the starter.
The engine - started :) We listen to how it works for 10 - 15 seconds and turn off the plug from the outlet.
Now you need to check the heating of the body and covers. With "killed" bearings will be bask cover(and increased noise is heard during operation), and in case of connection problems - more body will be hot(magnetic circuit).
If everything is in order, we move on and carry out the same experiments with pairs of pins 2 - 3 and 3 - 1.
In the process of experiments, the engine will most likely work on 2 of the possible 3 connection combinations - that is, on working and on launcher winding.
Thus, we find the winding on which the engine operates with the least noise (hum) and produces power (for this we are trying to stop the engine shaft by pressing a piece of wood against it. It will work.
Now you can try to start the engine using the starting winding.
Having connected the power to the working winding, you need to touch the third wire in turn to touch one and the other output of the engine.
If the starting winding is good, the engine should start. And if not, then "the machine will knock out"%))).
Of course, this method is not perfect, there is a risk of burning the engine :(and it can only be used in exceptional cases. But it helped me out many times.
The best option of course, it will determine the type (brand) of the motor and the parameters of its windings and find a connection diagram on the Internet.
Well, here is such a "higher mathematics";) And for this - let me take my leave.
Write comments. Ask questions, and subscribe to blog updates :).
Content:
Over time, the washing machine either becomes obsolete morally and physically, or breaks down. Some people throw it away, but often the engines are removed from the machine - the engine from the washer will certainly come in handy on the farm. But after a certain time, when there is a need to do something useful from the engine from the washing machine, you have to figure out how to connect it to the mains. Later in the article we will talk in detail about how to use the electric motor from an old washing machine.
Engine types
Motor connections are inextricably linked to its design. For this reason, if something is started with a used one. engine, it is desirable, first of all, to determine its device by appearance and only after that connect the electric motor from the washing machine to the 220 V network and start it. But in old inexpensive models of washing machines, only two types of engines were used:
- collector.
The asynchronous motor of the washing machine was usually placed on the laundry tub. The centrifuge that wrung out the laundry included the use of a collector motor, since this electric motor rotates faster. Therefore, if you are dealing with a washing machine of this design, you can have an idea in advance where and what type of engine is installed, and which motor to remove from the washing machine if necessary.
But if the engines were removed a long time ago, and it is necessary to connect the motor from the washing machine to the 220 V network, first of all we check if the rotor has a collector. If this is not clear due to the design of the housing, it is necessary to disassemble the engine from the old washing machine by removing the cover from the side opposite the shaft.
Collector motor
If the engine is still a collector, it is recommended to tidy up the collector and the surfaces adjacent to it, cleaning them from graphite dust before connecting the motor. Also, before starting the engine from the washing machine, it makes sense to decide whether it is necessary to make connections that change the direction of rotation of the shaft. If required, it is done possible switching brushes. For a collector motor from an old washing machine, it is characteristic that the brushes, and accordingly the rotor, are connected in series with the stator.
This is typical both for the engine from the automatic washing machine, and for most collector engines of the mains connection. Collector motors of all household electrical appliances are arranged in the same way. To change the direction of rotation of the shaft, it is necessary to swap the brush terminals with a switch (i.e. 1 and 2, as shown in the motor connection diagram below).
The rotation speed and motor power of the commutator washing machine depend on the voltage. Therefore, they can be easily adjusted with a dimmer. To do this, terminals 1 and 4 or 2 and 4, if terminal 2 takes the place of terminal 1 in the event of switching, are connected to the dimmer and its regulator selects the required shaft speed. With direct connection to the network, the shaft revolutions will be as large as possible. The collector motor from the automatic washing machine is controlled by a special circuit, in many ways similar to a dimmer.
The main difference is that it uses the start of rotation cycles from various sensors. In collector engines of more expensive models of washing machines, there may be a couple of additional wires from the tachogenerator. Therefore, before connecting the engine from the washing machine, they must be correctly identified. Although it is not difficult to do this with a smaller cross section of these wires.
- Some devices used an electromagnetic brake. It can add two more wires. This design feature must also be taken into account when connecting the engine from the washing machine.
You do not have to use these wires when connecting the collector engine to the mains. Therefore, if no homemade products with an engine control circuit are foreseen, these wires can simply be cut off so that they do not confuse. Long-term connection of the electric motor of the washing machine to the 220 V network causes its significant heating. For normal operation Both the insulation and the bearings need to be limited in their heating by forced cooling. Therefore, it is recommended to put an impeller on the engine shaft and only then put it into operation.
Some models of the collector motor from the washing machine may contain another pair of wires. This nuance is typical for devices with one motor, usually drum type. These motors rotate the drum more slowly during the washing process and faster during the spin cycle. To do this, they are equipped with two additional outputs, which regulate the speed of rotation of the shaft. These characteristics are usually displayed on the motor nameplate, an example of which is shown in the image below. WASHING is the washing mode parameters, and SPIN is the spin mode.
According to the nameplate, you can determine what voltage the motor should be connected to with an additional winding. Since the currents are the same, but the powers differ by 10 times, it is obvious that a lower voltage is applied to the outputs of the engine corresponding to the washing mode. Its approximate value can be obtained by dividing the indicated power (30 watts) by the indicated current and the correction factor k. Its value can be determined based on the fact that a different power value (300 watts) is obtained when the engine is started at a voltage of 220 V.
The value of k for the WASHING mode may be different, but for the initial assessment of the voltage value, this calculation option is quite suitable.
We get
The actual voltage value will be shown by the experimental connection of the washing machine motor through a transformer or LATR. If such a dual mode is needed in any craft, based on the calculations shown, it will be possible to select an additional low-voltage power source (usually a transformer).
asynchronous motor
Asynchronous motors are less revving and develop a speed of less than 1500 rpm when powered by 220 V. Their design contains two windings:
- launcher,
- working.
Therefore, before connecting the electric motor from the washing machine, first of all, these windings must be correctly identified. Usually from induction motor four wires coming out. But sometimes there are three. Each pair in a four-wire motor corresponds to a specific winding. It is known that the resistance of the starting winding is greater. Therefore, in order to find where which winding is, it is necessary to measure the resistance of each of them with a tester. In principle, for the operation of an asynchronous motor from a 220 V network, it is enough to connect only the working winding to it.
But the problem in this case will be with the overclocking of the engine. It will be necessary, by applying an external force, to spin the shaft up to a speed, starting from which the engine will independently reach operating speed. This method of starting, especially if there is a load on the shaft or even more so on the gearbox, is unacceptable. For this reason, a starting winding is used. To understand what to do with it, you need to familiarize yourself with the connection diagrams for such engines. They clearly show that in any circuit one output of the working winding is connected to one output of the starting winding.
Therefore, the model of the engine, which has three wires, already has a connection of these windings inside the case, and it remains only to complete one of the circuits. How to figure out where which winding is is clearly shown in the diagram at the top right. Which scheme to choose - the user decides. In principle, you can only use the button that you press when starting the engine. Then, at start-up, the moment on the motor shaft will be the largest of all the variants of the schemes. But in this case, the maximum load on the button contacts is obtained due to the largest current in the starting winding.
In addition, there is a risk of burning this winding if it is connected directly to the network for too long (and it is not known how long it can be powered with 220 V by connecting directly to the network). The same will happen if the value of the resistor is too small, and the value of the capacitance is too large. Therefore, to increase the starting torque, a large capacitor is made disconnected after the engine shaft accelerates. The most balanced option is "Capacitive Phase Shift with Run Capacitor". This scheme is recommended for use without any reservations. Especially if the engine starts with an unloaded shaft and the capacitance of the capacitor is small, on the order of 1-2 microfarads.
The direction of rotation of the shaft of the asynchronous motor from the washing machine depends on the order in which the outputs of the starting and working windings are connected. If three wires come out of the motor, it will not be possible to reverse it without breaking the connection of the winding leads hidden in its housing. For reverse, the conclusions of the starting winding must be reversed.
Motors from disused washing machines can become the basis of new devices, the work of which is based on rotation. For example, you can make an emery for sharpening knives that operates on electricity, as well as a mixer and much more. This will be discussed in the article.
Types of engines
The rotation of the shaft of the washing machine is carried out by the engine. He has various design features. The motor can be a collector, asynchronous or electronic type.
Washing machine motors are removed in different ways. First of all, unplug your washing machine. electrical supply, sewer network and water supply. In this state, the unit must be at least 10 hours. During this time, the capacitor will be able to discharge. Only after that you can start removing the motor.
How to remove an asynchronous motor?
The wires connecting the asynchronous motor and the capacitor should not be cut. The battery is pulled out along with the engine. There are many types of batteries. It may look like a metal or plastic box. As a rule, the battery is a sealed design. It contains one or more capacitors, the connection between which is parallel.
The connection diagram of the unit is also different. The winding can be connected directly to the network. Another modification involves the passage of current through the capacitor. The existing schema cannot be changed. It must be connected to the power supply, and the asynchronous motor will begin to rotate.
Do not touch engine parts until the capacitor is discharged.
How to dismantle the collector type of motor?
The engine from the washing machine of the collector circuit belongs to the category of low-voltage modifications. The stator contains permanent magnets connected to a constant voltage.
There is a sticker on the motor that indicates the voltage required for operation. Connecting the engine from a collector configuration washing machine involves the supply of this particular indicator.
Electronic motor
The electronic circuit is taken out of the washing machine along with the control unit. The voltage indicator to which the motor should be connected is indicated on the block body. It is very important to observe the polarity, since this type of motor does not imply reverse.
It happens that the connection of the engine from the washing machine is not carried out immediately. In this case, it is recommended to find other outputs that are supplied with a zero phase or a logical unit. After that, the unit will start to rotate.
How to connect the electric motor of a modern washing machine?
If you have decided what to do with the old motor, then you will probably be interested in how to connect the electric motor to the voltage in
Before proceeding with a direct connection, it is advised to familiarize yourself with electric circuit. First of all, pay attention to the wires coming from the engine. At first glance, there are quite a few of them, but in fact, not all of them will be needed. For operation, only rotor and stator wires are needed.
How to deal with wires?
If we consider the front of the block, then, as a rule, the first two wires located on the left refer to the tachometer. They are responsible for the engine of the washing machine. These wires are not required for operation.
In different modifications of washing machines, the wires will differ in color, but the principle of their connection remains the same. You just need to find the right ones by ringing them with a multimeter. To this end, you should switch the device to the measurement of the resistance force. One probe should touch the first wire, and the second should look for its pair.
The tachogenerator, which is in working condition, has a resistance index of 70 ohms. These wires are noticeable, but they are not needed.
Washing machine
How to connect the motor from the washing machine? After the necessary wires are found, it is necessary to connect them.
To this end, one end of the stator winding should be connected to the rotor brush. It will be better to make a jumper and isolate it. After that, the end of the rotor winding and the wire that leads to the brush remain. These two ends are connected to the network. As soon as voltage is applied to these wires, the motor will begin to rotate.
Washing machine motors have a high level of power, so be careful not to injure yourself. It is advised to mount the motor on a flat surface.
If you want the direction of rotation of the motor to change, then you should transfer the jumper to other contacts and swap the wires of the rotor brushes.
If everything is done correctly, then the motor will start its rotation. If this did not happen, then you should check the working condition of the engine and only after that draw any conclusions.
It is not difficult to connect the motor of a modern washing machine, which cannot be said about older models. Their scheme is different.
How to connect the motor of the old unit?
Motors from washing machines that have lasted for many years are more difficult to connect. To find the wires, ring all the motor windings. This is how you find pairs.
The multimeter is in mode One end should touch the first wire, and the second in turn look for its pair. Winding resistance indicators are advised to write down. They will be needed.
Next, a second pair of wires is found by a similar method and the resistance indicator is fixed. Two windings with different resistance indicators are available. It should be determined which of them is the working winding, and which is the starting one. The hint is the resistance indicator. The winding, in which it is smaller, is working.
Many people believe that such an engine is started by means of a capacitor. This is a wrong opinion, since the capacitor is used in engines of a different modification, in which there is no starting winding. In this case, it can contribute to the combustion of the motor during its operation.
To start this type of motor, you need a button or relay to start. The button must be equipped with a non-latching contact. You can use the doorbell button.
From the washing machine it looks like this: 220 V is supplied to the excitation winding (OB). The same voltage is applied to the starting circuit (PO), only in order to start the engine for a short period of time. To turn it off, use the button (SB).
After all the manipulations, it is enough to start the engine. For this purpose, the SB button is pressed and, as soon as the motor starts to rotate, it is released.
To ensure reverse (motor rotation in the other direction), the winding contacts should be swapped.
Is it possible to give the motor of an old washing machine a second life?
Many are wondering what to make of the engine from the washing machine. The working motor of the collector circuit is suitable for the design of a variety of devices. Some of them will be discussed in this article.
Grinder
Any man can do it if he has a motor from an Indesit, Ariston automatic washing machine and any other model.
When attaching a sharpening stone to the engine, the manufacturer may encounter a problem: the diameter of the hole in the stone does not match the diameter of the motor shaft. It is advised to use an additional part that is machined on lathe. The manufacture of such an adapter is not difficult. The main thing is to know the shaft diameter indicator. Not only an adapter should be available. You also need to prepare a nut, washer and a special bolt.
The thread on the nut is cut depending on which direction the rotation of the engine will be directed. For clockwise rotation, left-hand threads are made, and counterclockwise - right-hand threads. If you do not adhere to this rule, then the stone will begin to fly off, as the process will begin to unwind.
If there is a nut with a thread that is not suitable in direction, then the direction of rotation can be reversed. For this purpose, the winding wires are interchanged.
It is possible to set the motor to reverse rotation without using a capacitor. After the working winding is connected to a voltage of 220 V, the stone scrolls sharply in the right direction.
The speed indicator should not exceed 3000 per minute. Otherwise, the stone will break.
When using such a unit at home, experts advise using a motor whose frequency is 1000 rpm.
Made by hand, it is necessary to equip with additional elements. They will serve as protection against dust and stone fragments during operation.
A piece of metal about 2 mm thick can be used as a casing.
How to make a vibrating table?
Using the engine from the washing machine, the automatic machine of the company "Ariston", "Ardo", etc., you can make a vibrating table. It is needed for the production of tiles for laying out garden paths.
The design of the vibrating table is not complicated. It includes a flat slab fastened to the base with movable joints. The work of the collector motor sets the plate in motion. As a result, air is pumped out of the concrete, which makes the quality of the tile higher.
The position of the collector motor is set in accordance with the diagram. If it is installed in the wrong place, then the table will not be able to function correctly, and the production of quality tiles will not work.
How to make a concrete mixer?
An engine from an old washing machine can also be used to create a concrete mixer. This product is not intended for industrial volumes, but it is quite suitable for household needs.
To make a concrete mixer from an old washing machine, you will need not only a motor, but also a tank. A pair of blades that look like the letter "P" is inserted into the container of the tank with the activator. The standard activator must first be removed from the tank. Making the details is easy. For this purpose, a strip of steel with a thickness of about 5 mm is taken. The required amount of material is cut off from it, which is bent. The two blades are arranged so that they form a right angle. They are connected to the tank through the hole where the activator was located.
The hole in the tank through which the water is drained must be closed. With the correct assembly of the structure, you can connect the engine.
Depending on how much concrete you are going to knead, the engine power indicator is selected. With a small volume, you can mount a single-phase motor. If large volumes of concrete are to be mixed, then a more powerful unit is installed.
You should also remember about temporary transmission. It needs to be replaced with a gearbox. It will reduce the number of revolutions of the engine.