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Often after operation for 2 years, dull knocks appear from the side of the doors, especially those that open frequently. Most likely, this is due to the weakening of the hinge axis, for which the bolt protrudes in the viburnum. Checking for play in the hinges is simple, you need to open the door and shake it up and down, if there are slight knocks and noticeable play, then it's in the bolts. The bottom bolts are the most loose, but the top bolts must also be checked.
The upper hinge of the door, the bolt comes from below.
The lower hinge of the door, the bolt comes from above.
To solve this problem, you only need a key of 13, you need to turn the bolts clockwise, the efforts are applied strong, but without fanaticism. If you are afraid to break the bolt, then it is better to first unscrew it a little counterclockwise.
Until 2008, old bolts were installed on viburnums, which had an asterisk instead of the usual head for 13. If tightening the bolts does not help eliminate the backlash, then we buy bolts new modification with a cone-shaped working area and grooves for lubrication. The picture on the left shows the new type of bolts, and on the right is the old one.
When replacing old bolts with new ones, it is better to do one at a time, that is, first we change the upper one, and only then the lower one. The door is not easy. If you do not have assistants to hold the door, then you can fix the door with something, my friend got out of the situation like this.
When tightening new bolts, I advise you to lubricate them with lithol and drop a weak thread lock onto the threads. Good luck.
I decided to update an already existing article that was written over a year ago. In that case, the rattling of the gearshift lever was not very strong and was eliminated quite simply, as will be written at the very bottom.
In the meantime, I want to give a small instruction on how to eliminate the bounce of the lever on Kalina. For this I needed the following supplies:
- Open-end wrench or box wrench for 13
- Pliers
- Sharpener electric
Why does the gearshift lever rattle on Kalina?
The main reason for this problem lies in the very design of the attachment of the lever to the rod. To put it mildly, it is not perfect, but it can be corrected at minimal cost and in just a few minutes of time.
So, first you need to lift up the lever cover, and then unscrew the fastening nut, which is already shown in the photo below almost done:
When the bolt is removed, we also remove all the washers and the metal sleeve. And the whole pancake in parts looks like this:
So, the reason for the rattling is that when the whole structure is connected, a small gap appears between the parts, which is the source of strong vibration.
To achieve a smaller gap, it is necessary to slightly grind off the metal sleeve, which just prevents these washers from being squeezed more tightly. I want to warn you that you need to grind very carefully and quite a bit, literally 1 mm. If you overdo it, then the lever will go with a lot of effort.
As a result, after connecting the bushing with the washers into a single structure, as was shown at first, we get a picture when this gap has decreased:
I screwed up a little and ground a little more than necessary (which I warned about above). As a result, with a strong tightening of the fastening nut, the lever goes tight when switching. But I slightly loosened this nut, literally half a turn - it should not be unscrewed!
When I did everything, I started the car and gave good speed, and there were no sounds from the lever. But to make sure finally, I decided to take a ride. I accelerated to about 70 km / h in third gear and left the gas pedal. Previously, in this situation, the rattling was just terrible, and the only salvation from this was a hand on the lever! Now there is not a single hint of extraneous sounds and vibration.
Who has not yet eliminated a similar defect on his Kalina, you can use this advice, just grind the sleeve minimally. Better then the second time to finalize than the first time to screw everything up!
Below is the material of an old article that talks about a similar problem, but it is easily solved and is long gone!
Many owners of Lada Kalina very often have the following problem: during acceleration, as well as during engine braking, the gear lever starts to rattle. A similar problem arose with my Kalina after about 15,000 km of operation.
At first, these extraneous sounds didn’t irritate me much, but every day the rattling of the gearshift lever became stronger, and to be honest, it’s not very pleasant to listen to it every day. Decided to tackle this issue. So, the elimination of the cause can occur in different ways, depending on the complexity of the problem.
Fortunately, in my case, it was enough to pry and remove the upper lever trim, on which the gearbox diagram is squeezed out. It is better to pry off this cover with a thin screwdriver so as not to damage the plastic parts. After we managed to take it out, we wrap its inner circle with a thin strip of electrical tape and insert it back. After that, this cover sits much tighter and does not rattle.
Of course there are other sources. extraneous sounds, but I managed everything as simply and quickly as possible. The picture above shows what exactly needs to be wrapped with electrical tape.
Knocking in the front suspension of Kalina requires complete diagnosis running gear of the car. It is on the suspension that defects in road surfaces, various pits and dents have a special negative impact. A creak or knock of the suspension is expressed by any of the breakdowns of the chassis mechanism, which needs to be repaired.
Features suspension Kalina
With a detailed examination of the suspension of Kalina, you can see the hydraulic shock absorber struts, which are mounted on the swivel knuckle in the lower part, being the basis of the entire assembly design. The bolt, located in the upper part of the steering knuckle, allows you to adjust the camber element.
In the assembly, the upper part passes through the hole that is in the existing bracket. The body part is equipped with a mudguard, to which the top of the rack is fixed with three nuts. Due to the existing elasticity of this node, high-frequency vibration is excellently damped. In this case, a characteristic wiggle occurs during the implementation of the working stroke.
The front suspension of the car Lada Kalina is telescopic, with complete independence.
Kalina's suspension, which is characterized by the presence of conical or twisted springs, provides a special smoothness of the machine due to the presence of a stabilizer. This makes it possible not to disturb lateral stability auto. This function is also performed by levers that belong to transverse stretch marks. The strut swivel bearing must allow the wheels to swivel.
Design characteristics
Important technical specifications front suspension Kalina - the presence of shock absorber elements in the rack. In the design of the car, the lower arm and rounded fist in a pair, they are fastened simultaneously with the cross member related to the front suspension, which is carried out in the presence of a ball joint. Similarly, due to silent blocks, docking occurs brake pads with pendant.
To adjust the angle of the axis of rotation in the suspension, washers are used, which are located in the connection formed by the lever and the extension. You can fix the angular contact bearing to the wheel drive with a nut. When repairing the front suspension of Kalina, it is imperative to take into account the extent to which the process of adjusting the components and parts of the structure is possible.
The hubs of Lada Kalina are characterized by the presence of fastening nuts, which are interchangeable. They can only be right hand threaded. The presence of a rod, which is a stabilizer, ensures the stability of the transverse, being responsible for it. Her knee, which has rubber joints, must be fixed to the suspension when using silent blocks with racks. Fastening by the torsion part to the body is provided with brackets.
It must be taken into account that for the design of the suspension, the driver is sometimes required to carry out certain measures that are aimed at the process of strengthening the elements of the strut supports (glasses). This allows you to increase mileage without fear of suspension thumping.
Improved suspension scheme
Kalina is equipped with a SSAZ suspension. At the same time, the installation of cc20 or KAYABA models on cars is associated with their the best performance, while the first guarantees silent operation, which is combined with high reliability.
Causes of creaking and knocking of the car suspension
The front suspension consists of: 1 - nut for fastening the upper support of the rack; 2 - bolt; 3 — the top support of a rack of a forward suspension bracket; 4 - bearing of the upper support of the rack; 5 - upper insulating gasket of the spring; 6 - front suspension spring; 7 - protective cover; 8 - telescopic rack assembly; 9, 10 - nuts for attaching the rack to the steering knuckle; 11 - bolt with an eccentric; 12 - bolt; 13 - steering knuckle; 14 - drive shaft front wheel; 15 — stabilizer bar; 16 - stretching; 17 - lever; 18 - ball bearing; 19 - hub; 20 - hub fastening nut; 21 - brake disc; 22 — front suspension compression stroke buffer; 23 - the upper cup of the spring; 24 - limiter stroke compression of the upper support of the rack; 25 — stroke limiter of the upper support of the rack; 26 — a nut of fastening of a rack of the stabilizer; H - control size
It is possible to eliminate various malfunctions that occur in the front suspension of a Lada Kalina car if their cause is known. In case of faulty front suspension struts that can knock, they should be replaced. In some cases, they can be repaired.
If during the diagnostics it was revealed that the bolts that fix the stabilizer bar that provides lateral stability are loosened, to car body, then they need to be tightened. Worn rubber stretch marks or rods are replaced.
If the fastening of the upper support of the Lada Kalina suspension strut is loosened, then it is necessary to tighten the nuts that fix this assembly. If the destruction of the rubber strut support is manifested in the front suspension, then it must be replaced. If the rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) are worn out, new ones should be installed.
The presence of a malfunction of the stabilizer bar struts requires replacement. In case of draft with a breakdown of the front suspension spring, it should be changed. When the compression stroke buffer is destroyed, it is dismantled and a new one is installed. With an increased imbalance of the wheels, you should contact the tire shop so that the specialists eliminate the identified malfunction.
Owners often complain about the chirping of "grasshoppers" somewhere in the steering column area, but it is difficult for someone to find the culprit, and someone is too lazy. I'll try to help both. Lowering steering column to the lower position, unscrew the two screws securing the instrument panel and remove it (let you not be confused by the slight resistance of the two metal latches along bottom corners). Now you need to unscrew the four screws and remove the upper facing casing of the steering shaft. The white block of the wiring harness will open to the eyes, stretching from the LCD display of the instrument cluster. Often this block touches the casing, and it chirps in motion! The regular plastic harness holder does not save from this. I put a piece of rubber hose cut lengthwise on the block, but foam rubber or other suitable material can be used.
But somewhere else was hiding another source of rattling, and of a lower tone. After listening, I realized that it was the lower facing casing that was “talking” when it was disturbed by the steering column adjustment lever. I got rid of the annoying sound very easily: by lowering the lever, I bent it a little.
Doors can rattle quite loudly at the "viburnum" - any play in the hinges is given by a knock on the bumps. On Kalina, the hinge axis is removable, screwed into the body on a thread. If the tightening weakens, the knot begins to tap more and more. Tighten the axle - you need a TORX T-40 head. But it happens that the tightening of the axis weakens again. Then we completely unscrew it (the assistant supports the door), clean the threads and, after applying the adhesive fixative, wrap it in place. As a rule, this is enough for a long time, but nevertheless we will make a mark on the axis of each hinge and the body with paint. Such a beacon in the future will allow you to keep an eye on the state of the loop, without bringing the matter to knocks.
I will finish the story with advice for those who are just going to buy Kalina. If I adjust the front seat for myself (my height is 174 cm), then it is impossible to expand the rear seat for carrying cargo. Adjustment range front seat 168 mm, and the raised rear cushion eats up a good 90 mm. If you have to transport cargo, it is better to remove the pillows in advance and leave them at home (in the garage) or reserve a place for them in the cabin.