How to replace the release bearing?
We will carry out the work according to an abbreviated program (there were doubts that this would happen), that is, without draining the oil from the box and the antifreeze from the dryer.
Since there was previous experience self replacement subject on 10-ke and esper, then we get to work, for this we need:
-new clutch release;
-a high-quality set of various keys and heads (required, because there are quite difficult places!);
- a pit in the garage or a lift (trestle);
- various wooden coasters and spacers;
- 4 hours of time, plus coffee to taste.
We remove the battery fasteners and terminals in order, as in the photo. There were cases when the key from the positive terminal was shorted to the controller! 😮
We jack up the front end on both sides, remove the wheels and unscrew the nuts of the drives (by 32) with an awesome wrench. At the same time, your assistant, that there is urine, presses on the brake so that the drive does not scroll. With a puller we push out the ball pins,
disconnecting the hub from the lever and in any place convenient for you, unscrew the strand of the stub (more convenient near the rack). We do the operation on both sides.
We remove the battery platform (already removed in the photo) by unscrewing all the marked places, the fuse box, plus disconnect the indicated terminals for convenience.
We jack up the engine a little (under the oil pan, choose a place more snug: D)
in order to unload the right support and easily unscrew the bolt.
In order not to tear off, remove the connector from the trailer reversing.
We unscrew the gearbox bracket, otherwise it cannot be moved back to the centimeters we need.
Removing the bracket, we observe the notorious PIN, which allegedly contributed to the tripping of the engine in some, because. rested on the wiring harness with a sharp part.
back support we remove the engine completely, if possible, we smear all the bolts with nigrol.
Moreover, it is desirable to unscrew the bolt, and hold the nut with a wrench (it is of the lock type)
We begin to loosen all the bolts of the box, we pay special attention to the handsome man, marked with two arrows (the bitch is still the same), it is clamped tightly and ordinary heads do not fit in, the plastic pipe interferes (which is very easy to damage). So CAREFULLY.
We unscrew and remove, so that it doesn’t get confused at hand, the clutch slave cylinder, of course, without touching the tightness (nehai dangles on the hose).
We also unscrew 2 tricky bolts from the back of the box.
We disconnect the gearbox shift drive without bothering about the marks. Drive adjustment is very simple according to the manual (read the instr.)
We substitute a stand from the board under the box (in size), on which it will then be convenient to move it away.
We make sure that the drives lie freely and do not interfere with the movement of the box along the board.
This “complex” design looks so disgusting from the outside.
Well, we got to it! We unscrew the bolt on the fork (otherwise the release lever cannot be pulled out) and pull out the “subject”, there is a groove on the stem and you need to get into it during assembly. Therefore, do not worry about the relative position of the fork and stem.
Before installing a new bearing, it is necessary to lubricate its guide with lithol and check the condition of the plastic bushings of the fork stem (I have the norm. I did not change it.)
We collect the mustache in the reverse order, start the jerk and enjoy the silence under the hood.
Well, this is a comparison of the old and new bearing. I like the old one more, inside the plastic (it is quieter during operation) and the old one is more impressive in size. IMHO.
Well, the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing.
Clutch wear depends entirely on the nature of the driver's driving. On cars Chevrolet Aveo The 2nd and 3rd generations of the gearbox and clutch kit had a fairly rich life resource.
It even happened that they worked without replacing components up to 150 thousand km, which is good news. Personally, on my car for 90 thousand km. clutch began to behave inadequately. What exactly started happening:
- When the clutch pedal was released, there was some noise in the box. At first I did not pay attention, but then it began to get.
- The clutch "leads" when the gear is engaged.
- Sometimes, when you go uphill, the clutch slipped when it rubbed against the flywheel, and I could not overcome even the most ordinary hill in 2-3 gears. Came in only when turned on downshift, although with a good clutch it flew in 4th gear.
It was decided to change parts and clutch components that were worn out. The replacement of the clutch itself takes a little time, up to two to three hours. But dismantling the gearbox can stretch from noon to two days.
Not to mention the fact that you will need a lot of tools and a lifting box or an inspection hole, since, having raised the car with a jack, there will still not be enough space for the box to pull it out from below.
I highly recommend having the clutch or transmission components replaced at a bodyshop, as it is very time consuming and difficult to do by hand. Not the fact that you do not connect or dismantle something incorrectly. I recommend starting replacement only for those who really have experience in repairing transmissions.
Tools required for clutch replacement
- Keys set.
- Set of heads.
- Mandrel.
- Vorotok.
- Ratchet.
- Hexagon.
- Engine mounts.
- Screwdriver Set.
- Container for draining oil from the box.
- Rags.
- Patience J
Instructions for replacing clutch components
First you need to extract from engine compartment gearbox. This is very long and I will describe it in another article. But in a nutshell, it is necessary to install the supports on the engine and, after dismantling all the brackets and pipes with bolts, remove the boxes with a partner (it is very heavy).
- After dismantling the gearbox, disassemble it and inside we have a clutch basket.
- Remove all possible clutch parts, including release bearing and speed drive.
- Assess the condition of all parts. There should be no signs of wear on the driven and pressure plates, except for slight abrasions. In the presence of chips, missing parts, the severity of the movement of the springs and high output - do not hesitate to replace the parts. You must understand that if the part is living its last days, then it must be replaced, because sooner or later you will have to disassemble the gearbox, take it out and dismantle the clutch. To avoid repeated torment, it is easier to initially replace everything with a new one. This will increase the life of the box and clutch, and reduce your personal time.
- Install a new release bearing.
- Install a new driven disk.
- Install new pressure plate.
- Check the tightness of the speed drive wires.
- Seal the box when you assemble the clutch.
- Install the gearbox in the reverse order of removal.
- While still on the liftbox, check the behavior of the clutch and gearbox, including gears and turning the wheels manually (here again you will need an assistant / partner).
- Lower the car and pour oil into the box.
- If everything works as expected, and the clutch problems are gone, the replacement was successful.
I strongly recommend that everything related to the transmission and clutch be repaired with auto mechanics. There is a high probability of harming the car and investing even more money than initially asked for at the service station. Everything you do is at your own peril and risk.
The Spaniards approached the game with Krasnodar in a frightening manner. In the Europa League, Sevilla have been marching since the second qualifying round and won seven victories in a row. With a goal difference of 22:2!
If someone is already preparing to philosophize about weak opponents, take it easy: things are not much worse with La Liga. The last couple of weeks the team Pablo Machina he wins there too, and in the game with Real Madrid, his guys gave Madrid more than CSKA.
However, if you count the goals scored, Krasnodar is in no less order here. Let's get by with bare facts: only Zenit scored more than him in Russia. Sevilla, by the way, is also second in this indicator in Spain - right after Barca. By simple calculations, you can understand that the teams approached the face-to-face meeting at a very right moment for themselves. Best for cutting for the first place in the group.
It was very cool!
Already at the very start of the game, the Sevilla defender brought a moment from his own penalty area. classon intercepted the sawn-off shotgun and set the mood for this game with a beautiful blow. Further more - only in the first half, the "bulls" hit the crossbar several times. The opponent snapped, but did not create anything dangerous. It was all the more offensive to see an illogical conceded ball at the very end of the first half.
Was very good classon. Constant opening behind the backs reminded the best matches Smolova past seasons, and at some point almost every attack of the Swede ended in a dangerous moment (again, it was not without a crossbar). "Seville" had to be squeezed, and Musaev understood it. Output Pereira looked risky, but it worked. Almost in the very first attack, he completed the attack with a neat shot on target. And then he made it so that it was time to properly wipe your eyes.
"Krasnodar" fell on the gates of "Seville" and choked her to victory. That confusion, which was read in the eyes of the Spanish fans, was absolutely understandable. Probably, few people already doubted the victory of our team, but for everything to end like this…
Substitute Okriashvili after the discount Klasson charged through himself and brought the team forward. Soon the whistle blew, and after the stormy celebrations, the Georgians gave a live flash interview, which was listened to by the entire stadium. “All thanks to you,” he thanked the audience to a standing ovation. In the career of a football player in Krasnodar, there are only a few balls, and already two - with a kick through oneself!
Promes, wow!
By the Europa League, Sevilla decently shook up the squad. And if there was only one change with protection, the creative group was updated almost entirely. Nothing new, in the match against Standard there were also players from the nearest reserve on the field. Already now we can say that one of them is the Dutchman Promes.
One of the most expensive purchases in the history of the club has not yet brought him a single goal. "He plays on the wing," the head coach explains the situation. Meanwhile, the Spanish TV people seem to be frankly mocking the “can man” (see the screen broadcast of the match with Real Madrid).
Return to Russia did not inspire Promesa to great accomplishments: he did not mark anything special. Well, except for a rare blow that hit a defender. There was still a half-moment in the second half, but more is clearly expected from Quincy. Even his rare match at the base, he did not fully play.
Quincy left to grow, but today he was on the side of the worst. Tomorrow everything can return to normal, but this week is the week of football Russia, which Spain is no match for again. Just enjoy.
It all started with the fact that the creak of the clutch pedal became unbearable and I decided to change the cable, usually with such symptoms, everyone sins on him.
The official dealer (DelfoAuto) charged a price of 900 rubles for replacing the cable, and the price is indicated together with the removal of the protection, it was the payment for the removal of the protection that infuriated me the most. It was decided to install the cable myself (I would like to note that the removal of the protection, and even more so the inspection hole, was not needed at all). The cable code for the 1.2 16v engine is 96899976. The cable that I ordered in Exist and the one that is on the car are completely the same.
The price on existential was 1384 rubles. (officials asked from 1500-1700 rubles), also under the order and wait, and if there is no difference, why pay more!
It only takes a couple of keys to replace the cable. This is a tubular wrench for 10, open-end for 10, open-end for 12, and pliers (although I could do without them). 
First of all, we spray VD-Coy on the adjusting nut under the hood (it is easier to unscrew). 
Now we take a key for 10 (any) and turn off 2 nuts at the expansion tank. 
Then you need to snap off the wire clip that is attached to the tank (the clip is located behind the tank and prevents it from moving). I just squeezed the petals with my fingers and removed, but you can use pliers. 
After we have released the tank, we take it and carefully lift it without disconnecting the hoses and put it on the fuse box (the black one next to the tank). When carrying out this operation, you need to monitor the ebb on the tank where the clip snaps into place so as not to break this ebb on the engine shield (in fact, everything is very simple and easy to remove).
Now we can freely stick our hand to the engine shield where the cable enters the cabin. We take a tubular wrench by 10 (you can also use an ordinary one, but it’s not convenient to turn) and unscrew 2 nuts securing the cable to the motor shield (I advise you not to unscrew it completely with a wrench, so that you can then unscrew it with your fingers, so there is less chance of dropping the nuts and then crawling to look for them on protection) 
After that, we unscrew the adjusting nut on the clutch fork and remove it together with the rubber pad (we first remember how everything stood). So that the cable does not rotate and does not twist the rubber cover, you need to hold the counterpart with a 12 key.
Now the most cool and interesting begins. We need to get into the pedal assembly. I acted in a simple way, namely, I took out the rug, turned it over with the dirty side to the ground, and on the clean side I knelt down (in a very interesting position) and actually leaned under steering column.
Here we need to disconnect the cable from the pedal. If I knew how this is done, then the replacement was within 20 minutes, and so I scratched my head for a long time and thought who I would ask, but in the end, after 15 minutes, I figured it out myself. The fact is that the tip of the cable that enters the salon looks like this: 
And he puts on such a hook on the pedal, as in the diagram. You'll see for yourself when you lean under the steering column. 
Everything seemed simple, if not for one thing!! Koreans are cunning people! There is a locking spring, it is wound on the axis of rotation of the clutch pedal and its tip with an eye goes into the slot above the hook and prevents (blocks from spontaneous removal) to remove the cable from the pedal . It looks like this (although it’s not very visible, climbing with a camera in the pedal assembly is still a hemorrhagic, it’s good that the camera has a swivel screen) whoever changes it will immediately understand. In short, we squeeze the ear with a finger towards the driver's door until it pops up with a characteristic click. You should not be afraid, the spring is weak and then I managed to insert it into place much faster than to remove it (from the 1st time). 
Hurrah!!! The old cable is free!! But do not rush to immediately remove it from the engine compartment, but rather disconnect it and move it to the side. This is necessary in order not to remember how it passed between the elements of the car (such as installing a new one along the old one) !! If you hurried and took it out without looking then here: 
Passes under the drive!
After laying a new one, take out the old one. If not torn, I advise you to leave, in emergency cases, namely, if the cable breaks on the way, it will still fit.
Install the cable in reverse order. We lay along the old one, put it on the studs on the motor shield, after putting the tip into the cabin, put it on the hook, return the spring to its place (eye into the slot). Then we tighten the fastening nuts to the motor shield and insert the rubber stop into the bracket in front of the clutch fork, at the same time we insert the threaded tip into the hole in the fork. Put a rubber pad on the adjusting thread and tighten the nut (you can still lock it with an additional nut, as I did, although the design of the main adjusting nut does not allow it to unwind spontaneously, well, you will see for yourself how interesting it is done there). When tightening, we again use a 12 key to hold the cable and not twist it.
Now it remains only to adjust the pedal. I just tightened the nut until the pedals were aligned (clutch and brake) and that's it. It should be noted that the old cable stretched out quite a bit and the nut on it was twisted (during the last adjustment on TO-2) much deeper.
Let's summarize. It took about 40 minutes, well, or a little more (if I had known about the lock on the pedal, I would have done it much faster). He only got his hands dirty, that is, you can not change clothes. The creak disappeared, it became pleasant to press as in a new one. The gears turn on much easier, apparently it depends on the adjustment, in principle, if you score on the creak, you could still tighten the old cable a bit and continue driving.
We show how to replace the clutch with your own hands and remove the gearbox in chevrolet car Aveo 3 ( Chevrolet Aveo).
New Valeo clutch:
We start by removing the engine protection, jacking the car on both sides, putting stops on the thresholds. We remove the wheels, tear off the central nuts on the wheel, it will be necessary to unscrew them completely, because the drive will need to be removed from the box. Next, unscrew the nuts from the ball joints on both sides. Keep in mind that work is being done from a viewing hole. Then we press out the ball joints themselves steering knuckles. Now we need to drain the oil from the gearbox, as drain plug No, we will drain it from the pallet. We unscrew all the bolts from the gearbox pan along the perimeter, drain the oil. Ideally, you should immediately change the pan gasket. Gaskets come in two types, make no mistake with your choice.
We squeeze the drive out of the box, we managed to do it using the mount:
Unscrew the clutch hydraulic cylinder from under the hood. From the pit we remove the starter, the speed sensor connector, the engine mount bracket. Next, dismantle the reverse frog connector.
While the engine is still on the pillows, we loosen the tightening of all the bolts securing our box with the engine. In the process of replacing the clutch and removing the gearbox in the Chevrolet Aveo, we will need to jack up the engine:
The box was removed without any problems, the subframe remained in place, you can start replacing the clutch. This is the condition of the clutch release bearing:
Because of him, you have to change the clutch, although his condition was far from ideal, but quite efficient.
Clutch replacement video, gearbox removal in Chevrolet Aveo:
Keep in mind that the gearbox is very heavy, it is not recommended to remove it alone, at least together. Without removing the box, you cannot change the clutch in the Chevrolet Aveo, and the most difficult thing in this procedure is to dismantle the gearbox,