This happened especially often in gowans, when the damper froze in the open state and the engine twisted terribly. I had to convulsively pick up the pedal with my foot. As a result, I decided to replace the traction system and cable drive.
For alteration, a sector, a cable, a pedal and a cable bracket were needed. Initially, I bought a sector from VAZ2108, from Solex, but its landing hole “fundamentally” did not fit the K126U carburetor axis.
I found a sector from the Volga, it cost 50 rubles. The sector is plastic, it has a ready-made hole with flats, it fits perfectly without alterations. True, its position on the axis is still very embarrassing - the cable seems to be looking up, I don’t think that this is a standard position. I took the cable from the VAZ2108, the pedal from the gazelle. Bracket found in KEMP, it is written: "cable bracket for UAZ 421". The bracket is attached under the carburetor nuts. True, it had to be slightly cut in the center - it rested on the ribs of the carburetor.
Most of the work with installing a new pedal. To begin with, I had to remove the old one, which is riveted with 3 rivets to the body. The grinder and the chisel did their job. I figured out the place of installation of the pedal - the upper hole of the pedal stood on the upper right hole of the riveting, I drilled a new one at the bottom. Further I drilled a hole along the cable, expanded it with a round file. I installed the pedal on 2 bolts, attached a cable, tried it. With this fastening, even with the cable adjustment completely unscrewed, the pedal rests on the floor, and the 2nd chamber does not open. I had to make a spacer and a piece of a rectangular profile 20x40. After that everything is great. True, it is imperative to focus on the pedal, otherwise, in the heat of excitement, you can break the cable.
I took off the old thrust with the whole mechanism so that it would not make unnecessary sounds. I also had to work as a grinder, cutting the axle-rod. Unfortunately, now it will not be possible to use the manual gas drive, although I have never used it (except for warming up).
I tried it on the go. Super! The car pulls away. Didn't expect the result. True, it does not release gas well, it is necessary to put an additional spring on the return of the sector. In general, I am very pleased with the alteration, I spent 1.5 hours.
© KIAlex, winter 2004
That kinematic scheme that was used on UAZs was my first disappointment when I first got behind the wheel of this beautiful car. I realized that at the first opportunity I just had to make the carburetor throttle drive humanly.
Came to the conclusion that best solution will be the following:
- Pedal from the Gazelle;
- Gas cable from VAZ-08;
- Cable sheath bracket from M-2141.
I have a K-151C carburetor, so there was no question of the sector.
On the way home from work, I stopped by the store and bought a pedal (95 rubles) with a cable (50 rubles). There was no bracket. The next day, in the morning, I went to the car market to look for this bracket. The market was crawled far and wide, but to no avail. Most sellers of spare parts for the M-2141 said that it was almost impossible to find such a thing ... There was a second way out - a cover from a Gazelle. After a little thought and weighing whether I should invent the bracket myself (in the image of Moskvichevsky for a carb or Gazelevsky for a valve cover) or just buy a cover, I decided in favor of the second option. As a result, 250 rubles were added to the project budget. for the lid. After completing the purchase, went to the garage.
First of all, with great pleasure, I took off the “spoon” that bored me to the point of pain in the joints of my right leg. Fitting the Gazelle pedal under the right lower bolt of the steering column cover made me think about how to put it, in the upper hole of the pedal bracket or in the lower one. If you fasten it to the top, then the pedal goes too deep under the brake pedal and touches the "spoon" bracket, under the bottom - the pedal becomes too deep, but almost above the place where the "spoon" was. I decided to fix it to the bottom and check the convenience of such an installation during operation.
I cut a groove in the valve cover bracket for the cable to make it easier to put / remove the cable. Installed the cover.
As a place for the cable to enter the cabin, I decided to use a hole obtained as a result of breaking out the lower variator fastening nut from the front panel, after its corresponding fine-tuning with a large drill and a round file.
I cut down the regular attachment to the gas pedal from the cable, removed the rubber and plastic stops of the shell and cut off a little less than half from the cable shell. I put two ordinary washers and two spring washers on the threaded part. I cut the M6 thread on the pedal lever in the standard hole and screwed in the bolt.
I fixed the cable on the carburetor sector, on the valve cover, installed the plastic and rubber shell stops and pushed the end of the cable into the passenger compartment. Approximately, by eye, I fixed the cable on the pedal bolt between two thick washers with a diameter of about 20 mm.
It was already evening and I decided to go home on this "beta version" to evaluate on the go all the pros and cons of the design. The first feeling I experienced was delight. Light effort on the pedals, accurate gas dosing, all the pluses are available. There were two minuses: the pedal was very deep and, out of habit, it was inconvenient to transfer the foot from it to the brake pedal and the absence of idlers (the revolutions were about 1200), although the cable was not stretched. Naturally, the throttles did not open fully.
The next day I decided to bring the design to mind. First of all, I dismantled the structure and shortened the cable further, leaving the sheath with a slight excess in length so that there were no unnecessary bends, but there was sufficient length to compensate for engine vibration. Modified the hole in the motor shield, bending the edges of the hole so that the shell stops in engine compartment was at a slight upward angle. The diameter of the hole was made so that the rubber stop went there extremely tightly (I hammered it with a hammer). The idle ones disappeared due to the fact that I did not disconnect the throttle drive levers from the carb sector, they did not allow the throttle to return. I had to sacrifice manual gas and turn off the traction from the carb. Drop engine oil greased the rope. Mounted the cable on the cover and carburetor. I screwed the plastic stop of the cable sheath onto the sheath (you need to slightly squeeze the last turn of the sheath with pliers) and, having smeared it with soap, inserted it into the rubber stop, thereby the rubber stop cut into the metal of the shield and was fixed in good conscience.
The assistant opened both carburetor throttles completely, at that time I fixed the cable on the depressed pedal, adjusted it more accurately using the regular method. I cut off the excess cable, leaving a margin of 10 centimeters. The pedal stood up much higher and more convenient, but still I had to slightly lower the brake pedal by turning the adjustment on the rod all the way. The drive test showed that all alterations are 100% justified and, apart from delight, no other emotions were revealed.
I left the standard design in place ... just in case :)
Acknowledgments: NivAndy, Adver, V(ery)B(ad) 31512, Cyril_69.
Another standard sadness of the UAZ is how the engineers managed to connect the "gas stomp" with the carburetor. I give a picture of this traction-lever-shaft-push design.
As you can easily see from the figure, it contains 20 elements. Okay, the lever on the carburetor itself, four nuts, the enrichment drive (aka suction) and manual gas do not count.
But the remaining 11 have 9 junction points with each other, each has a backlash, plus a spring was added there ... This is a complete atas!
If you look at how the drive is made in Zhige-2108, then with all the bolts, washers, nuts and even a rubber pedal pad, we have 14 elements. And if you throw away the little things, there are ONLY FOUR parts: the pedal, the cable, the bracket for attaching the cable jacket to the carburetor and the "sector" of the damper drive. Fine?
It is worth noting that virtually the entire Soviet-auto-industry suffered from such a complexity of the drive. And finally, it’s not clear why it was necessary to give birth to such a mechanical abracadabra that does not give a clear mechanical connection. Now, in virtually every forum of soviet-auto-lovers, there are hundreds of photos and video reports on installing a cable. With a normal installation, the difference is simply fabulous. What is a normal install? And everything is simple: the cable must be lubricated and must not be laid with kinks along small radii (R<10см).
At first, attempts were made to achieve tolerable operation of the standard drive, but they did not radically change anything. The conclusion became clear. Only a cable will solve the problem. Of course, I wanted to go to the car market and buy factory components. But in the market, a man selling small things near the carburetor just shrugged. There are no deliveries from Russia to Kharkiv due to the political troubles of recent months. And the man has not yet gotten the hang of transporting directly from Rashi ...
Therefore, without hesitation, I took a shirt and a broken clutch cable from a motorcycle comrade. He rummaged around in his boxes and bags with fasteners. I applied a little imagination and after spending a couple of days I gave birth to a fully functional collective farm.
We take three washers and two sets of screw / washer / nut M3. After finishing with drills and a file, we get the following result:
We assemble to a heap and get a kind of coil mated with a standard OZON carburetor damper drive.
I admit, the process of mounting on the carburetor is a little stressful. First, a standard drive flag is put on the axle. Above it is a large washer (1) with a small hole. Then, on the thread lock, the flag fastening nut is wrapped.
Now the saddest thing. Two M3 screws are inserted into the large washer (1) from the carburetor side. The two remaining washers are put on them: a thick central one (2) and a second thin one (3). The whole package is pulled together by screwing M3 nuts onto the screws.
Yes, while I collected everything, I had to puff and scold the one who came up with this Kama Sutra. But for the first option it is quite tolerable. The Kamasutra can be avoided if the central holes of the two outer washers (2.3) are enlarged. Then the nut on the axis of the damper drive can be wrapped with a head when the package is assembled. Then it will be possible to abandon the M3 screws and assemble a pack of washers by welding.
The end of the cable is guided along the coil under the spherical pin and, by crimping the M6 washer over it, it is fixed from jumping out. I will not say that it is very elegant, but it is durable, cheap and angry.
The second question is to fix the cable jacket on the carburetor body. The usual galvanized fasteners and a furniture corner went into business.
I welded a wide M8 washer perpendicular to the plane of the M8 bolt hat. With a file, I removed part of the washer that prevented it from being pulled to the carb body.
A short M8 bolt was drilled along the diameter of the cable + 0.5mm. I drilled a hole in his hat for a shirt. Two washers and two nuts keep the plate from the furniture corner cunningly bent around the bolt from turning.
Well, the underhood work has been completed. A small test to get positive emotions from the fact that it all works. We hold the shirt with our hand, pull the cable and contemplate how the coil turns. Cool!
Now it remains to find the best way to lay the cable and organize the pulling of the cable from the jacket on the side of the pedal. I really did not want to drill an additional hole in the motor shield. But alas, I had to. Otherwise, either the radius is small, or the path is too long through the opening that is already fairly clogged with wiring.
Again, we figure out what to fix where, take measurements and prepare parts from anything.
The shirt fastening bracket was born from a piece of sheet steel 2 mm thick. The attachment point on the body is one of the bolts holding the rubber sealing the gap between the steering column and the engine compartment shield. The shirt is held by a horseradish-type bracket made from the top bracket of the pipe mounting bracket.
I fixed the end of the cable to the pedal with a small corner concocted from scraps of a furniture corner that fastens the shirt to the carburetor.
The final chord before the test was the casting of working out into the cable jacket. Now everything is smoothly pressed, everything turns. The beauty!
P.S. Of course, this is all just a prototype that was needed to experience the difference between the two approaches in practice. Over time, something will be replaced, something will be modified. But definitely, the regular drive will never return to its place.
The gas pedal on every car is an integral element, so without it it would be impossible to drive a vehicle. The gas or accelerator pedal is located in the passenger compartment in the far right corner. The UAZ Patriot SUV also has such an important detail that you should pay attention to. After all, not only depends on the gas pedal: whether the car will go or not, but also the nature of the functioning of the engine. Why on the UAZ Patriot SUV the accelerator pedal may not respond, and also what this element is, we will find out in more detail.
The gas pedal is a device that regulates the supply of the fuel mixture to the cylinders, which contributes to the operation of the internal combustion engine. On UAZ Patriot cars, electronic gas pedals are installed, which have significant differences from mechanical ones. The principle of operation for mechanics and electronics is the same, but only the first one functions due to a steel cable, and the second through a complex electronic system. Electronic gas pedals are installed on cars that are equipped with injection engines.
The electronic gas pedal has a special sensor located directly next to this device. The sensor is designed to be able to read information about how much the accelerator pedal was pressed. The read information instantly enters the computer, which controls the electric motor and the throttle device, including. With the help of the throttle mechanism, the supply of the fuel mixture to the cylinders is regulated.
The electronic gas pedal was invented in order to make it easier for the driver to drive a vehicle. This innovation has many advantages and only one disadvantage - the complexity of the repair. To eliminate the malfunction that occurred in the design of the device on the UAZ Patriot SUV, you need to know the basics of electronics. What is the principle of operation of the electronic mechanism on the UAZ Patriot SUV, we will find out further.
So, in the design of the product there is a special mechanism by which an accurate reading of the angle of pressing the device is carried out. Information is read using special sensors that transmit it to the computer. Further, the main work is performed by the car's ECU, which, based on the information received, opens the throttle to the required position. In addition, the ECU is equipped with the ability to change the value of this angle independently. This is necessary in order to ensure a safe and economical mode of operation of the engine. Therefore, it should be noted that with the invention of a modern device, the driver's fate practically did not decrease, but only became easier.
Breakdowns and the need to replace the device
If the mechanical gas pedal failed occasionally, only when the cable wore out, then the electronic one is a more vulnerable element. After all, not only electronics can fail, but also sensors located directly on the device.
When the device fails as a result of a malfunction of the sensors, the already known Chek Engine inscription can be found on the instrument panel. In the event that only one sensor fails, the ECU automatically switches to standby mode. In this mode, when you press the pedal, a slow increase in speed occurs. If two control sensors fail, then the emergency mode is activated. In this case, the engine operates as an idle.
Disassembled pedal from a car with an Iveco engine
If the sensors fail at the same time, then the device should be replaced completely, since they are not repairable.
A malfunction of the electronic unit on the UAZ Patriot SUV can also cause damage to the wiring or accelerator. In the first case, it is necessary to find the place of damage and, if possible, eliminate it, and in the second case, to replace the entire mechanism.
The gas pedal does not respond or how to troubleshoot
On the UAZ Patriot SUV, such a problem often occurs when the engine does not respond to the accelerator pedal. If the device does not respond to pressing, then it is easy to conclude that it has failed. The reason for such a malfunction, most likely, is a violation of the integrity of the tracks, which determine the angle of deviation of the mechanism. The photo below shows such device tracks.
In this case, not a complete failure of the device may be observed, but it appears only periodically. In such a situation, it is recommended to immediately replace the pedal. But in order to make sure that the matter is really in it, it is necessary to check it for serviceability. To determine the malfunction, you will need to use a multimeter, which should be connected to the terminals of the accelerator pedal. If the resistance changes when the angle of the device changes, then the part is serviceable. In the absence of resistance, as well as its sharp changes when the angle of the device is changed, it can be concluded that the pedal is malfunctioning.
In rare cases, a malfunction of the mechanism on the UAZ Patriot SUV can be caused by damage to the wiring or a broken contact. You can correct the situation by replacing the supply wiring. If, after the examination, it turns out that the mechanism is working, but the problem still does not disappear, attention should be paid to checking the throttle actuator.
When the gas pedal responds late when it is pressed, the problem can be solved by installing a special SPUR. A SPOR is an electronic device that allows you to improve the dynamics of acceleration and reduce the effect of delay in the reaction of the gas pedal. The SPOR is shown in the photo below.
This device is installed directly between the connectors of the pedal and the electronic control unit. Such an element does not adversely affect and does not disrupt the operation of the engine, so it is often installed as soon as problems with the delayed reaction of the part in question are noticed.