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Homemade tractors with a motorcycle engine. Do-it-yourself minitractor with a breaking frame

Much has been said about Ural motorcycles, but not many people know that their history begins back in 1941.

And over 70 years, more than 3 million units of two-cylinder heavy motorcycles "Ural" were produced. It's the only one Russian motorcycle, which has received recognition abroad. At present, clubs of fans of the Ural motorcycle are even organized in the USA, England, Australia and other countries.

It would seem that the Ural is known to everyone, but few people know that now several different modifications have been created on the basis of it.

IMZ-8.103-10. The motorcycle is equipped with a reverse gear, has a telescopic front fork.
A variation of this modification is IMZ-8.103-40 "Tourist". It has a long-link fork, is completed to order with an additional trunk and tires with increased cross-country ability.
IMZ-8.107. A more passable version of the Ural motorcycle due to the differential in the power transmission and the drive to the sidecar wheel.
This modification is the basis for the military motorcycle "Ural GEAR-UP", which has a turret for the RPK, alternative optics, tires with increased cross-country ability and is equipped with a entrenching tool.
IMZ-8.503. It does not have a passenger sidecar, but is equipped with a lifting body designed for a load of 150 kg.
IMZ-8.903. This modification was developed for the police patrol service. It additionally has a siren, signal lights, brackets for fixing special equipment. Depending on the area of ​​application, they can be equipped with a liquid-cooled engine.
IMZ-8.401. cargo tricycle. This modification is designed for loads up to 500 kg. Contribute to this rear axle from the car, suspended on springs, hydraulic drive, disk wheels.
So it turns out that the tuning of the Ural motorcycle is carried out not only by craftsmen in their own garage with their own hands, but also by the state on an industrial scale.

Tags: Do-it-yourself tractor from a Ural motorcycle

HIGH-QUALITY LEATHER GLOVES FOR THE WELDER Assembly of a minitractor (5 series).

Feb 19, 2019 - 2 min. - Added by user Useful DIYsA general overview of a homemade tractor with a breaking frame ... A homemade tractor with an engine from a Ural motorcycle. Useful...

Motorcycles of heavy class URAL, DNEPR | Topic author: Anatoly


Generator 462.3701 (tractor) for URAL

Vladimir (Rasputin)  How many watts?

Andrew (Adhira)  700

Serge (Chandak)  ​50A 700 Watts

Serge (Chandak)  ​How did you make the adapter?

Sergey (Robb)   I'M INTERESTING HOW THE TRACTOR GENERATOR IS BEHAVIORING.. IN THE URALS? ..I HAVE AT LEAST 2 PIECES PER SEASON - THEY SIMPLY STOP WORKING - IN MY DIODE BRIDGE IS BURNING ..I AM GIVING IT FOR REPAIR - I GO ..AND TWO ..AGAIN FOR REPAIR - WHAT IS THE REASON ..I DON'T UNDERSTAND - MAYBE SOMEONE KNOWS THE REASON ???

Ilya (Dallas)  Probably like to disconnect the battery while the engine is running?

Roman (Hanka)   I had the same crap. I had a native 150 watts and burned one after another, but I had a generator overload, especially if I turned on all the lighting. Now I have a G-700 and everything is in order. True, there is a small minus, on idling the generator does not work, you add a little and everything is normal. The tractor generator does not have enough idle speed.

Roman (Hanka)   why are you 10 headlights or something that you cling to that you lack the Ural

Musa (Kumari)  I also want to stir up with such a gene

vot (Adaline)   such a generator of revolutions is not to be afraid))) but 150 times normally gave the anchor thrown out))

vot (Adaline)   I set it and forgot about it)))

vot (Adaline) and before the tractor, probably a dozen changed 150 current))

Roman (Hanka)   I had a Ural for 6-7 years, I never had a gene without covering

Alexander (Mellissa)   There is a small option so that at low speeds it will give out a normal current, you need to grind another gear and this gear from a six-volt generator is slightly smaller and more teeth.

vot (Adaline)   well, here you can say that you are lucky)))

vot (Adaline)  more than 90 traveled often???

Roman (Hanka)   yes no, I lived in the countryside, you don’t drive much there

Musa (Kumari)   Is there any info about the puck?

ツॡﮫﮩﮫDaniyar (Kahakea) What tractor is the generator from?

How to make a tractor from a Ural motorcycle photo | news, 2016

A home-made tractor with an engine from a Ural motorcycle ... General ... Installing hydraulics on a mini tractor from a walk-behind tractor with your own hands. Show...

Mini-tractor from the Ural-motorcycle - Metal Forum

Jan 20, 2012 ... Mini-tractor from the Ural motorcycle: z_853e15d0.jpg; A mini-tractor from .... I think maybe one day they will get their hands on it. But me...

The mini-tractor that the story will be about is already the third modification of my homemade design, originally executed as a walk-behind tractor and built by me back in 1985. It was a car with a power unit from the Izh-Planet-4 motorcycle, equipped with a forced air cooling system and equipped with an intermediate reduction chain reducer. The walk-behind tractor was intended mainly for cultivating the land. For transport work, a single-axle trolley with a seat and a body was hooked to it from behind. The wheels of the cart were, of course, not driving. Reverse I didn’t have a walk-behind tractor either, and during its operation I felt for myself how difficult it was to handle, and I realized that it loses to the tractor in many ways.

It was then that the idea arose to attach a rear two-wheeled bogie to the walk-behind tractor according to the principle of a “breaking” frame, to equip it with an automobile-type steering, which I did over time. So the walk-behind tractor became a mini-tractor.

The mini-tractor had small dimensions, a small turning radius, good traction characteristics and off-road patency. And on the road, he could reach speeds of up to 40 km / h. Track front and rear wheels was only 700 mm, and the base (the distance between their axes) was 1 m. The car could pass through the gate only 90 cm wide, that is, into the gate.

Over the years of operation of the mini-tractor, there were no breakdowns of either the structural elements of the structure, or the bridges, or the transmission. All malfunctions (or rather, whims) happened mainly in the engine - lack of a spark, fuel supply, splashing of candles with oil and others inherent in two-stroke engines.

But somehow the opportunity arose to purchase an inexpensive, not new, but quite efficient power unit from a Ural motorcycle. This prompted me to the next - the third modification of the machine, which has already been implemented.

1-wheel (from the car "Moskvich-412", 4 pcs.);

2-front drive axle (from the car "Moskvich-412");

3 - kick starter;

4-power unit (from the motorcycle "Ural");

5- magneto (from motor pump);

7-inlet manifold (from the motorcycle "Ural");

8-carburetor (from the Ural motorcycle);

9-gear shift mechanism (gearbox) from the motorcycle "Ural" (lever, rod, handle);

10-air filter (from the tractor);

11 - chain drive;

12-steering (from the car "Moskvich-412");

13 - gear shift mechanism (lever and rod) of the gearbox from the Moskvich-412 car;

14-hitch control lever;

15 seat;

16-seat back;

17 - seat back tilt adjustment assembly (2 pcs.);

18 - upper half-post of the seat (steel sheet s12, 2 pcs.);

19-lower half-post of the seat (steel sheet s12, 2 pcs.);

20-hitch;

21-rear drive axle (from the car "Moskvich-412");

22-rear composite cardan shaft with slotted connection "Moskvich-412");

23-swivel (from front wheel car UAZ-469);

24-universal joint transmissions;

25-"breaking" node of semi-frames;

26-front cardan shaft;

27-hood (steel sheet s1);

28 - drive system of forced air cooling;

29-fuel tank (from a walk-behind tractor);

30-front wheel fender (steel sheet s1, 2 pcs.);

31 - wing rear wheel(steel sheet s 1.2 pieces);

32-pedal "gas";

33-brake pedal;

34-clutch pedal;

35-magneto cover (headlight from a tractor);

36-lining;

37-muffler;

38-air duct (duralumin sheet s1, 2 pcs.)

The scheme of the mini-tractor remained the same - with a "breaking" frame. But the former "Izhevsk" motor gave way to a more powerful (and most importantly - more reliable and not so whimsical) four-stroke power unit from the Ural motorcycle. Another drive axle appeared on the rear half-frame. He, like the front one, is also from the Moskvich-412 car. Many components are used from the previous modification, such as semi-frames (albeit with minor alterations), gearbox, intermediate chain gearbox, fuel tank and lining. At first, he left the system of forced air cooling of the engine the same, changing only the fan drive and dividing the air flow from it into two cylinders. But later, due to low efficiency, it still had to be redone, too, installing a “personal” fan above each cylinder. This allows you to operate the mini-tractor under load for a long time even in hot weather.

Now more about the design of the mini-tractor. Its basis is two semi-frames of a simple rectangular shape: the front one is 900 × 360 mm in size and the rear one is 600 × 360 mm. Although they were made at different times, both were welded from a steel channel No. 8 (the wall is 80 mm high and 4.5 mm thick, the width of the shelves is 40 mm each with variable thickness). The ends of the sections of the channels for joining "on the mustache" were cut off at an angle of 45 °.

1 - engine;

2 - gearbox and clutch;

3 - output shaft power unit;

4-elastic (elastic) coupling (from the Ural motorcycle);

5 - primary (splined) gearbox shaft (from the Ural motorcycle);

6-checkpoint (from the car "Moskvich");

7 - secondary (output) shaft of the gearbox;

8-small chain drive sprocket (z= 17);

9-chain (t = 22.225);

10-large driven chain sprocket (z = 68);

11 - front propeller shaft;

12 - cardan joint (from the KamAZ car);

13-rear cardan shaft;

14-swivel;

15-spline rear link connection cardan shaft(from the car "Moskvich");

16 - main gear drive gear (from the Moskvich car, 2 pcs.);

18-axle (from the car "Moskvich-412", 4 pcs.);

19-wheel (from the car "Moskvich-412", 4 pcs.)

On the front semi-frame there are two cross-beams made of sections of a rectangular pipe 50 × 30 mm (laid flat), which are the subframe of the power unit. It also has a wall made of a 12 mm thick steel sheet and several platforms and brackets for attaching units, mechanisms and assemblies are welded on it.

A rack is welded to the rear half-frame at the back, made of a rectangular pipe 80 × 80 mm (welded from two sections of channels No. 8, joined by the edges of the shelves) for mounting a hitch on it, to which soil-cultivating and other agricultural implements are hooked. And in front - a vertical plate for the swivel knot (about it - later), reinforced on both sides with scarves. Both the rack and the plate are all made from the same 12mm steel sheet. From above the half-frame is covered with a flooring from sheet steel 3 mm thick. Ahead, subsequently, another platform is attached from the same steel sheet, covering the “tipping point” node. The gas and clutch pedals are mounted on it.

The semi-frames are interconnected by a "tipping" node, which is a flat (uniaxial) cardan mechanism (hinge). Its forks are welded from 12 mm steel sheet. Moreover, the wall of the front fork is welded directly to the rear traverse of the front half-frame and reinforced with scarves. The horns of the forks are also reinforced with small scarves made of the same steel sheet. The trunnions and housings of the bearing supports for this hinge are cut off and used together with bearings and lock washers from the corresponding components of the cardan shaft of the KamAZ vehicle.

The suspension of all tractor wheels is dependent and rigid. And so that the wheels of any of the bridges do not hang when the tractor moves through bumps and pits, the half-frames still have the ability to “rotate”, or rather deviate by an angle of about 15 ° clockwise or counterclockwise from the average position one relative to the other. This happens due to the swivel used in the coupling of two half-frames, made from the hub of the front wheel of the UAZ car and installed in front of the rear half-frame. And so that there is not too much rotation of one half-frame relative to the other, a tooth measuring 38x10x12 mm is welded on the hinge plate, and two of the same stops are welded to the plate of the rear half-frame.

The engine is mounted on the crossbars of the front half-frame and is fixed here through the lugs with two long bolts. From the engine, rotation through a soft connection (coupling) from the Ural motorcycle is transmitted to the primary (input) shaft of the gearbox from the Moskvich-412. The gearbox is attached to the frame through a 12 mm thick welded plate with four bolts. Far protruding end of the secondary
(output) shaft of the box rests on a bearing mounted in the bulkhead. At this end of the secondary shaft, a hub with a 17-tooth sprocket is planted - the drive sprocket of the chain gearbox. Another (driven) sprocket with 68 teeth is mounted on the front driveshaft. The sprockets are connected by a chain with a pitch of 22.225 mm. gear ratio(decrease in angular speed or increase in torque) of the chain reducer is 1:4. To main gear front axle rotation is transmitted directly from this shaft, and to the rear axle - through the cardan mechanism of the “breaking” node and then through the rear cardan shaft. The rear cardan shaft consists of two links with their splined connection. For the first link, a splined end was used, cut off from the output shaft of the "Moskvich" gearbox, which is welded to the universal joint. The second link is borrowed from the "Moskvich" cardan shaft. Due to the spline connection of the links, when turning, the rear shaft will be lengthened.

Bridges from Moskvich-412 (both front and rear) are narrowed to a wheel track of 700 mm. Each of them, on both sides of the main gear housing, has the end parts of the semi-axial casings cut out (motorists often call them “stockings”), and the flange ends (the extreme parts of the bridges with bearing sockets and threaded holes in the ends) are again welded to the remaining parts of the casings. But not at once. At first, the axle shafts were correspondingly shortened (their middle pieces were cut out). Then, the inner splined ends are welded to the outer flanged ends of the axle shafts, and after mutual alignment, both parts are finally welded. Next, the finished shortened axle shafts were screwed to the cut-off ends of the bridge with standard screws and their inner ends were inserted into the splined holes of the differential gears. And only after aligning the alignment of the limit switch and the rest of the casing with the crankcase, the parts were welded.

At the gearbox from Moskvich-412, the splined end of the cardan shaft from the Ural motorcycle is welded to the protruding end of the input shaft to connect it to the power unit. The length of the protruding part of the docked input shaft is 80 mm. But before that, the joined ends of the shafts are being finalized. A spike is made on one, and a corresponding groove is cut on the other. The hole in the crankcase of the box is covered with a homemade cover with an oil seal, screwed to the crankcase with four M6 screws.

On the other side of the gearbox, the extension (casing) of the gearbox output shaft is cut off at a distance of 20 mm from the box body, and the end (outlet) is closed with a home-made cover with a hole for the output end of the shaft and an annular groove machined in its walls for the stuffing box. The cover is screwed to the cut extension with four M6 screws into the corresponding threaded holes previously made in its walls.

The steering column is attached to a plate welded to the frame with three M10 bolts. To give the plate rigidity, two kerchiefs made of a 5 mm thick steel sheet are welded to it.

In order for the rotation of the steering wheel to coincide with the rotation of the tractor, the direction of the steering gear worm was changed to the opposite (the worm is mounted on the shaft with the other end). To do this, I had to machine a socket in the bearing adjusting nut from the bottom of the crankcase and a hole in its cover. When cornering wheel always remains in front of the driver, although the "steering wheel" is on the front half-frame, and the driver's seat is on the back.

1 - splined tip (from the cardan shaft of the Ural motorcycle;

2-gearbox input shaft;

3 - stuffing box;

4-front cover (steel);

5 - screw M6 (4 pcs.);

6-partition frame;

7-gear box;

8-back cover (steel);

9-gland;

10-sprocket hub (steel);

11-leading chain drive sprocket;

12 - bearing housing;

13 - bearing;

14-stand;

15-frame bracket;

17-frame spar

Since the engine turned out to be located quite high above the ground, the engine is started through an intermediate shaft installed at the bottom of the power unit in bushings welded to the frame. At one end of the shaft, a kick-starter lever shortened to 140 mm is fixed, and at the other end, a rod also 140 mm long.

Engine cylinders are equipped with forced air cooling. At first, it was carried out from one central (common) fan, but it turned out to be not so effective. And therefore it was modernized, supplying each cylinder with its own impeller. The fan drive was made from the shaft of a converted standard "Ural" generator through an angular gearbox, the body of which was a two-inch plumbing fitting. The gears for the angular gearbox were taken from the corresponding assembly of the Druzhba-4 chainsaw. I cut off the end switch from one gear-shaft, drilled and machined a hole in it for the diameter of the generator rotor shaft, planted it and welded it. Another gear shaft assembly with bearings and a cage was installed in the bevel gear housing from the other side. A pulley is mounted on the output shaft of this gearbox, from which rotation is transmitted through a V-belt drive to the pulleys of two fans located on top of each cylinder. Fan bearing cages are welded to the hood frame. Pulleys - from washing machine, and the fans - from the heater radiator of the UAZ-469 car.

1 - semi-axis flange;

2 - trunnion part of the axle shaft;

3-terminal-bell beam of the bridge;

4-rod (middle part) of the axle shaft;

5-casing ("stocking");

6-splined (inner) end of the axle shaft;

7-carter main gear;

8 side gear

Since the regular "Ural" generator is used in the forced air cooling system, to ensure the operation of the engine (ignition combustible mixture), a magneto from a motor pump is used. The magneto is driven by camshaft, to which it is docked in front through a homemade drum adapter.

Fuel tank with a capacity of 8 liters, with redone wiring - now for two carburetors, used from a walk-behind tractor.

1 - housing from the generator (from the motorcycle "Ural");

2-rotor shaft of the generator without winding (from the motorcycle "Ural");

3 - flange bearing;

4 - flange (steel);

5 - washer (steel);

6-body of the angular gearbox (2″ plumbing fitting elbow);

7-leading bevel gear (from the gearbox of the Druzhba-4 chainsaw);

8-key (steel);

9-driven shaft-gear;

10-bearing shaft-gear (2 pcs.);

11-bearing housing of the pinion shaft (steel);

12-pulley of the V-belt transmission of the forced air cooling system;

13-pulley fastening (nut with spring washer);

14-mounting the flange to the body (screw 3 pcs.)

The main gearbox is "Moskvich". Switching is carried out by a handle fixed on the upper horn of the fork of the front half-frame of the “breaking” hinge. Gear shifting of the "Ural" power unit is carried out using the handle located to the left of the steering wheel on the dashboard, by means of traction.

The tractor hitch is made of sheet (12 mm) steel strips, the length of the lower linkage rods is 450 mm, the upper ones are 180 mm. The lifting and lowering of the hitch during operation is carried out using a lever located to the right of the driver's seat. The length of the lever is 550 mm, which allows you to raise and lower any mounted agricultural implement suitable for a mini-tractor without much effort.

Since the suspension of the mini-tractor is rigid, the seat is made soft. It is installed on a support of two pairs of triangular plates, bolted together. Due to the mutual displacement of the plates, you can change the height of the seat, its distance from the steering wheel. There is also the possibility of adjusting the angle of the backrest.

The operation of the engine (“gas”) and the clutch are controlled using standard motorcycle cables, but not from the handles, but through the pedals located on the platform covering the “tipping point” and attached to the rear half-frame.

The wheels of the mini-tractor are all the same, 6.15 × 13 inches in size, used from the Moskvich-412 car. From him, and hydraulic brake system, its layout on the frame - copper pipes and flexible hoses.

The mini tractor has about the same running characteristics, as its predecessor with an engine from the Izh Planet-4 motorcycle, but the first one is much more powerful and more reliable in operation. Thanks to two gearboxes (of the power unit itself and from Moskvich-412), installed one after the other, a wide choice of speed modes was obtained, the tractor has 16 gears forward and 4 reverse. With both axles constantly working, the tractor began to overcome, without any problems, seemingly insurmountable obstacles for it, even with a trailer and a load.

It will seem to someone that the design of the mini-tractor is too heavy. The way it is. But this is more of an advantage than a disadvantage. Firstly, this ensures the strength of the loaded units, and secondly, the grip of the wheels with the ground increases, which is important when using a mini-tractor for plowing, and even more so as a bulldozer for raking snow drifts in winter.

Home-made mini tractors with a Ural engine are needed in the country, in the garden or in a small farm. There is no need to buy overall equipment, since it will not pay off the cost of a tractor. But you can assemble a tractor yourself with an engine from an IZH motorcycle. A home-made tractor is usually small in size and is intended to plow in the garden, mow grass, and carry small loads, incl. root crops, garbage and firewood.

The engine from the IZH motorcycle has high power and performance and is great for agricultural work.

Homemade mini tractors

Below is how to do homemade mini tractors with Ural engine.
Similar types of homemade products are based on the use of an articulated or breaking frame. It is necessary to attach a two-wheeled trolley to the walk-behind tractor, put the steering, which is based on a 4-wheel model drive.


A home-made mini tractor with a motor from the Urals is reliable and powerful, it has the following characteristics:

  1. A drive axle must be installed on the rear half-frame.
  2. Chain intermediate reducer.
  3. Fuel tank.
  4. Facing.
  5. Fans installed above each cylinder, which allows you to use the tractor in the heat, work on it for a long time.

How to make a mini tractor with a motorcycle engine with your own hands

The design of a homemade tractor with an engine from a Ural motorcycle is as follows.

The base consists of 2 semi-frames forming a rectangle. The front part should have dimensions of 90x36 cm, and the back - 60x36 cm. You can weld the half-frames yourself using a steel channel. To properly dock the channels, you need to cut the ends at an angle of 45º.


On the front half-frame, you need to install 2 transverse crossbars, which are made from a rectangular pipe. It should measure 5x3 cm, laid flat. Crossbars are needed to make a subframe for the motor.

A wall made of steel should be installed on the half-frame. Brackets and platforms must be welded to the wall, designed to install units, mechanisms, assemblies.

See » Overview of the universal tractor Belarus MTZ-92P and its modifications

A rack is welded onto the rear half-frame, which can be made from a pipe. Hangers are attached to the rack. They are necessary for fastening attachments. A vertical plate is mounted on the front of the rear half-frame, which is necessary for the swivel assembly. It is reinforced with scarves.

The lower half-frame is covered with a steel deck, and a platform with gas and clutch pedals is welded onto it.

Between themselves, the frames are connected by a turning point, which in structure is a hinge or cardan mechanism.


For the IZH motor, rigid and dependent suspensions which will allow you to put the wheels of the desired size. Do-it-yourself minitractor provides for installing the engine on the transverse crossbars of the front half-frame, which is then bolted through the lugs.

The gearbox is installed side by side, for which you need to use bolts. It is necessary to set the chain clutch correctly in order for the gearbox and speeds to work well. On the first link of the gearbox, you can use the splined end, which is removed from the Moskich gearbox, and the second - from its cardan shaft. Spline connection allows you to make the rear shaft much longer.

Next, we will consider how to make homemade mini tractors. It is necessary to put on the frame and steering column which must be firmly bolted. A hole should be made in the bearing adjusting nut, which will allow the column to be connected to the steering wheel.

The engine will be started through an intermediate shaft, at one end of which a shortened kick starter is fixed, and at the other end - thrust.

Cylinders should be equipped with a forced cooling system. A fuel tank, a motor pump, an additional gearbox are used from an IZH or Ural motorcycle.

To make homemade tractor with an engine from a Ural motorcycle, you need to make hinges yourself, using sheet steel for this. Lower and raise these parts should be a special lever, which is installed with right side from the operator's seat. The lever must be no more than 55 cm long, which allows you to adjust attachments.


First of all, homemade mini tractors are popular among owners of small subsidiary farms, since the use of overall factory equipment on a small land area, in most cases, is not rational and very costly. On the contrary, a small mini-tractor will perfectly cope with the task of plowing a garden, mowing grass, transporting small-sized cargo, etc. In terms of its functionality, such a unit is not inferior, and sometimes far superior to specialized tractors.

A do-it-yourself mini-tractor will not only become an indispensable assistant in small farming, but will also save a lot. After all, the cost of assembling such a “miracle machine” will pay off in one season. All parts and main mechanisms can be removed from broken agricultural machinery, or purchased at dismantling for a fairly low prices.

Any person can make a homemade mini-tractor. This requires minimal technical knowledge and, of course, desire. At the initial stage of work on a homemade mini-tractor with your own hands, you will need drawings. When choosing a drawing, you need to decide on the type of mechanism that you want to end up with.


The break-in mini-tractor has gained great popularity among private farmers. The essence of this model on an articulated (breaking) frame is that a two-wheeled cart was attached to the walk-behind tractor, and the steering is equipped with automotive type with 4 wheel drive (4x4).

Such a mini-tractor is distinguished by its compact size, small turning radius, excellent traction power and has performed well on off-road. In operation, it is quite simple and economical.

But somehow the opportunity arose to purchase an inexpensive, not new, but quite efficient power unit from a Ural motorcycle. This prompted me to the next - the third modification of the machine, which has already been implemented.


The scheme of the mini-tractor remained the same - with a "breaking" frame. But the former "Izhevsk" motor gave way to a more powerful (and most importantly - more reliable and not so whimsical) four-stroke power unit from the Ural motorcycle. Another drive axle appeared on the rear half-frame. He, like the front one, is also from the Moskvich-412 car. Many components were used from the previous modification, such as, for example, half-frames (albeit with minor alterations), a gearbox, an intermediate chain gearbox, a fuel tank and a lining. two cylinders from it. But later, due to low efficiency, it still had to be redone, too, installing a “personal” fan above each cylinder. This allows you to operate the mini-tractor under load for a long time even in hot weather.

Now more about the design of the mini-tractor. Its basis is two semi-frames of a simple rectangular shape: the front one is 900x360 mm in size and the back one is 600x360 mm. Although they were made at different times, both were welded from a steel channel No. 8 (the wall is 80 mm high and 4.5 mm thick, the width of the shelves is 40 mm each with variable thickness). The ends of the sections of the channels for joining "on the mustache" were cut off at an angle of 45 °.

On the front semi-frame there are two cross-beams made of sections of a rectangular pipe 50x30 mm (laid flat), which are the subframe of the power unit. It also has a wall made of a 12 mm thick steel sheet and several platforms and brackets for attaching units, mechanisms and assemblies are welded on it.

A rack is welded to the rear half-frame at the back, made of a rectangular pipe 80x80 mm (welded from two sections of channel bars No. 8, joined by the edges of the shelves) for mounting a hitch on it, to which soil-cultivating and other agricultural implements are hooked. And in front - a vertical plate for the swivel knot (about it - later), reinforced on both sides with scarves. Both the rack and the plate are all made from the same 12mm steel sheet. From above the half-frame is covered with a flooring from sheet steel 3 mm thick. Ahead, subsequently, another platform is attached from the same steel sheet, covering the “tipping point” node. The gas and clutch pedals are mounted on it. The semi-frames are interconnected by a "tipping" node, which is a flat (uniaxial) cardan mechanism (hinge). Its forks are welded from 12 mm steel sheet. Moreover, the wall of the front fork is welded directly to the rear traverse of the front half-frame and reinforced with scarves. The horns of the forks are also reinforced with small scarves made of the same steel sheet. The trunnions and housings of the bearing supports for this hinge are cut off and used together with bearings and lock washers from the corresponding components of the cardan shaft of the KamAZ vehicle.

The suspension of all tractor wheels is dependent and rigid. And so that the wheels of any of the bridges do not hang when the tractor moves through bumps and pits, the half-frames still have the ability to “rotate”, or rather deviate by an angle of about 15 ° clockwise or counterclockwise from the average position one relative to the other. This happens due to the swivel used in the coupling of two half-frames, made from the hub of the front wheel of the UAZ car and installed in front of the rear half-frame. And so that there is not too much rotation of one half-frame relative to the other, a tooth measuring 38x10x12 mm is welded on the hinge plate, and two of the same stops are welded to the plate of the rear half-frame.

The engine is mounted on the crossbars of the front half-frame and is fixed here through the lugs with two long bolts. From the engine, rotation through a soft connection (coupling) from the Ural motorcycle is transmitted to the primary (input) shaft of the gearbox from the Moskvich-412. The gearbox is attached to the frame through a 12 mm thick welded plate with four bolts. The far protruding end of the secondary (output) shaft of the box rests on a bearing mounted in the partition. At this end of the secondary shaft, a hub with a 17-tooth sprocket is planted - the drive sprocket of the chain gearbox. Another (driven) sprocket with 68 teeth is mounted on the front driveshaft. The sprockets are connected by a chain with a pitch of 22.225 mm. The gear ratio (decrease in angular speed or increase in torque) of the chain reducer is 1:4. Rotation is transmitted to the main gear of the front axle directly from this shaft, and to the rear axle - through the cardan mechanism of the "breaking" unit and then through the rear propeller shaft. The rear cardan shaft consists of two links with their splined connection. For the first link, a splined end was used, cut off from the output shaft of the “Moskvich” gearbox, which was welded to the cardan. The second link is borrowed from the "Moskvich" cardan shaft. Due to the spline connection of the links, when turning, the rear shaft will be lengthened.

Bridges from Moskvich-412 (both front and rear) are narrowed to a wheel track of 700 mm. Each of them, on both sides of the main gear housing, has the end parts of the semi-axial casings cut out (motorists often call them “stockings”), and the flange ends (the extreme parts of the bridges with bearing sockets and threaded holes in the ends) are again welded to the remaining parts of the casings. But not at once. At first, the axle shafts were correspondingly shortened (their middle pieces were cut out). Then, the inner splined ends are welded to the outer flanged ends of the axle shafts, and after mutual alignment, both parts are finally welded. Next, the finished shortened axle shafts were screwed to the cut-off ends of the bridge with standard screws and their inner ends were inserted into the splined holes of the differential gears. And only after aligning the alignment of the limit switch and the rest of the casing with the crankcase, the parts were welded.

At the gearbox from Moskvi-cha-412, the splined end of the cardan shaft from the Ural motorcycle is welded to the protruding end of the input shaft to connect it to the power unit. The length of the protruding part of the docked input shaft is 80 mm. But before that, the joined ends of the shafts are being finalized. A spike is made on one, and a corresponding groove is cut on the other. The hole in the crankcase of the box is covered with a homemade cover with an oil seal, screwed to the crankcase with four MB screws.

On the other side of the gearbox, the extension (casing) of the gearbox output shaft is cut off at a distance of 20 mm from the box body, and the end (outlet) is closed with a home-made cover with a hole for the output end of the shaft and an annular groove machined in its walls for the stuffing box. The cover is screwed to the cut-off extension with four MB screws into the corresponding threaded holes previously made in its walls.

The steering column is attached to a plate welded to the frame with three M10 bolts. To give the plate rigidity, two kerchiefs made of a 5 mm thick steel sheet are welded to it.

In order for the rotation of the steering wheel to coincide with the rotation of the tractor, the direction of the steering gear worm was changed to the opposite (the worm is mounted on the shaft with the other end). To do this, I had to machine a socket in the bearing adjusting nut from the bottom of the crankcase and a hole in its cover. When cornering, the steering wheel always remains in front of the driver, although the "steering wheel" is on the front half-frame, and the driver's seat is on the back.

Since the engine turned out to be located quite high above the ground, the engine is started through an intermediate shaft installed at the bottom of the power unit in bushings welded to the frame. At one end of the shaft, a kick-starter lever shortened to 140 mm is fixed, and at the other end, a rod also 140 mm long.

Engine cylinders are equipped with forced air cooling. At first, it was carried out from one central (common) fan, but it turned out to be not so effective. And therefore it was modernized, supplying each cylinder with its own impeller. The fan drive was made from the shaft of a converted standard "Ural" generator through an angular gearbox, the body of which was a two-inch plumbing fitting. The gears for the angular gearbox were taken from the corresponding assembly of the Druzhba-4 chainsaw. I cut off the end switch from one gear-shaft, drilled and machined a hole in it for the diameter of the generator rotor shaft, planted it and welded it. Another gear shaft assembly with bearings and a cage was installed in the bevel gear housing from the other side. A pulley is mounted on the output shaft of this gearbox, from which rotation is transmitted through a V-belt drive to the pulleys of two fans located on top of each cylinder. Fan bearing cages are welded to the hood frame. The pulleys are from the washing machine, and the fans are from the heater radiator of the UAZ-469 car.

Since the regular "Ural" generator was used in the forced air cooling system, to ensure the operation of the engine (igniting the combustible mixture), a magneto from a motor pump was used. The magneto drive is carried out from the camshaft, to which it is docked in front through a homemade drum adapter.

Fuel tank with a capacity of 8 liters, with redone wiring - now for two carburetors, used from a walk-behind tractor.
The main gearbox is "Moskvich". Switching is carried out by a handle fixed on the upper horn of the fork of the front half-frame of the “breaking” hinge. Gear shifting of the "Ural" power unit is carried out using the handle located to the left of the steering wheel on the dashboard, by means of traction.

The tractor hitch is made of sheet (12 mm) steel strips, the length of the lower linkage rods is 450 mm, the upper ones are 180 mm. The lifting and lowering of the hitch during operation is carried out using a lever located to the right of the driver's seat. The length of the lever is 550 mm, which allows you to raise and lower any mounted agricultural implement suitable for a mini-tractor without much effort.
Since the suspension of the mini-tractor is rigid, the seat is made soft. It is installed on a support of two pairs of triangular plates, bolted together. Due to the mutual displacement of the plates, you can change the height of the seat, its distance from the steering wheel. There is also the possibility of adjusting the angle of the backrest.

The operation of the engine (“gas”) and the clutch are controlled using standard motorcycle cables, but not from the handles, but through the pedals located on the platform covering the “tipping point” and attached to the rear half-frame.
The wheels of the mini-tractor are all the same, 6.15x13 inches in size, used from the Moskvich-412 car. From him, and the hydraulic brake system, its wiring on the frame - copper tubes and flexible hoses.

The mini-tractor has approximately the same running characteristics as its predecessor with an engine from the Izh Planet-4 motorcycle, but the first one is much more powerful and more reliable in operation. Thanks to two gearboxes (of the power unit itself and from Moskvich-412), installed one after the other, a wide choice of speed modes was obtained, the tractor has 16 gears forward and 4 reverse. With both axles constantly working, the tractor began to overcome, without any problems, seemingly insurmountable obstacles for it, even with a trailer and a load.

It will seem to someone that the design of the mini-tractor is too heavy. The way it is. But this is more of an advantage than a disadvantage. Firstly, this ensures the strength of the loaded units, and secondly, the grip of the wheels with the ground increases, which is important when using a mini-tractor for plowing, and even more so as a bulldozer for raking snow drifts in winter.

The mini-tractor is used for cultivating the land, transporting goods up to 900 kg on a trailer cart, pulling a horse-drawn mower when making hay, clearing snow from paths in winter and doing many other things that are needed around the house.

Dear visitors of the site "", today we will consider detailed instructions, about how to make a mini-tractor with an engine from a Ural motorcycle with your own hands. This tractor was created on the basis of a breaking frame welded from a professional pipe with a section of 100x40 mm. The engine was installed from a Soviet Ural heavy motorcycle purchased from a nearby scrap metal collection point. There are 2 boxes on the tractor, one is a “native” motorcycle box, and the second is from the Moskvich-412 car. The tractor has four-wheel drive on all 4 wheels 4x4. The engine cylinders are equipped with additional air cooling, carried out from adapted motors of VAZ stoves, namely fans in a tin case. Steering, traction "Moskvich" It also aggregates a plow, a car trailer, a blade and other useful attachments. The ignition on the tractor is electronic.

Living in a rural area, such an assistant is simply irreplaceable, with its help you can plow and cultivate a garden, transport various goods on a trailer (firewood, manure for a garden, hay, crops harvested from the site) In general, the equipment is very useful.

let's consider step by step photos assembling a mini tractor.

materials

  1. engine and gearbox from the motorcycle "Ural"
  2. prof-pipe 100x40 mm
  3. bridge VAZ 2103
  4. Checkpoint "Moskvich-412"
  5. VAZ wheels

Instruments

  1. welding inverter
  2. angle grinder (Bulgarian)
  3. drill
  4. set of wrenches
  5. hammer
  6. roulette
  7. welding corner

Step-by-step instructions for creating a mini-tractor with an engine from a Ural motorcycle.

First of all, the frame was welded, it will consist of two parts and are interconnected by a turning point. A pipe 100x40 mm, length 2000 mm and width 950 mm was taken as the material.
Tractor transmission, shortened rear axle stockings from the VAZ 2103, torque from the gearbox is transmitted by a chain drive to the sprocket, and from it through shortened cardans to the front and rear axles. Swivel frames.

Frame assembled and wheels installed.
Installing a checkpoint from a Moskvich-412 car
The engine from the Soviet heavy motorcycle "Ural" was purchased from the metal collection point and restored.


Electronic ignition from a VAZ 2108 car.
Installation of electrical equipment, as well as additional forced cooling for engine cylinders.
Turn signals and stop signal.


Tie Rod from Moskvich.
Here is such a wonderful mini-tractor turned out.

This tractor has good performance and optimal specific power, which allows him to plow the land with a plow with two mouldboards, to haul a car trailer with a load of more than 500 kg. The tractor also has a blade for cleaning snow in the winter. You can watch the video and see for yourself. pleasant viewing.

We hope you liked the material. Thanks for attention!