How on the same day they brought another mystery. It was an injector Niva 21214. The car fired at the muffler during regassing, it was very stupid to accelerate. The owner said that due to engine overheating, the cylinder head was changed and after that the engine stopped working normally. For a long time they could not cope with it in this car service. They did everything, knocked on the wheels, wiped the glass, rearranged the chain by a tooth back and forth. And when rearranged back, she became even dumber.
From the story, I concluded that the main problem is incorrectly installed timing marks. Well, most likely there are a couple of other malfunctions that prevent the motor from working normally.
Did a full diagnostic. My assumptions were confirmed, the phases were indeed set incorrectly, 372 degrees instead of 360. Along the way, I discovered a faulty IAC, a completely clogged throttle pipe and high resistance of one high voltage wire. Eliminated all detected faults, did, installed correctly. Started the engine. It got even worse. It started with difficulty, works hard, barely gains momentum.
I don’t understand anything, it seems that I set everything correctly according to the marks and the engine should already be working fine ... I check again, everything is installed correctly. I look once again with Motodoc the oscillogram of the pressure in the cylinder. The phases "left" even further, now it's 382 degrees against the previous 372. Then I realized that I don't understand anything. :) Such a malfunction would mean cranking the master disk. Here, by all indications, it looked like the same thing. But one thing was not clear, and it was this one that was very confusing: how could an all-metal pulley, with a powerful veneer groove, on a key made together with the crankshaft, turn?
This version needs to be checked, most likely the answer lies precisely here. Using the MTS-5100 motor tester, I check the alignment of the crankshaft pulley mark with TDC. The marks have parted, this is clearly visible on the oscillogram. The top dead center should correspond to the 19-20 tooth of the crankshaft drive pulley, and here it turned out to be the 17th.
I unscrew the nut securing the crankshaft pulley and try to turn it by hand. It succumbed quite easily and turned 8 teeth, which means 48 degrees on the crankshaft!
I see that I am getting closer and closer to the solution. , unscrew the nut completely, pull out the pulley ...
The photo shows the absence of a fragment right next to the keyway. This is what caused the pulley to rotate. Then everything is logical and understandable. Everyone who tried to repair this car, including me, set the timing marks as if correctly, i.e. according to the timing marks. But no one suspected that the pulley was in the wrong position, with an offset. This led everyone astray.
Bought a new pulley, installed it. Accordingly, I had to open the valve cover again and rearrange the chain, but already correctly, according to the real marks. :) At the same time. (On this car, the vandals removed the hydraulic lifters and installed adjusting bolts like those of the Niva carbulator.) After the repair, the engine came to life, purred pleasantly, all the above malfunctions disappeared. At the end of all done and the machine flew like a bird!
Silences on the go...
Something often began to break pulleys on the Niva, then not a single case in 4.5 years, or even two in a row at once. On this machine (Chevrolet Niva), unlike the previous one, everything was different. The car started, drove, but suddenly the engine stalled on the go and she got up in her tracks. It was possible to start it only after 10-15 minutes. Then for some time the car drove normally and again got up for 10-15 minutes. Stops happened chaotically, there was no dependence between them. So the owner suffered for two days. In the end, the engine turned out to start at all. This car was brought to us on a tow truck. A quick diagnosis again revealed problems with the phases - the pulley turned, this can be seen from. UOS is 263 degrees instead of 10-15! After dismantling, we saw a similar picture as in the first case:
Actually, many people, including myself, having moved from another car to a Chevrolet Niva, immediately feel bad momentum cars - it accelerates slowly, sometimes it doesn’t pull uphill at all and you have to switch down to a gear or even two. Agree, when overtaking you feel somehow more confident if the car quickly picks up speed. You can't say the same about Chevy. But let's figure out what the dynamics of Shniva depends on and how to increase, if possible, the power of the car.
Acceleration speed, dynamics depends primarily on engine power. The engine on Shnivy is dead, there's nothing you can do about it. And therefore, you can go the other way and change the gearbox, put the main pairs with gear ratio above regular. And the torque, and hence the power, will immediately increase.
I have a friend who bought ordinary Niva on wheels 235/75/R15 (and this is almost 29″ - the arches were cut) and immediately began to complain that the car accelerates poorly, it doesn’t pull uphill at all, when there are 3 passengers in the cabin, then even 2nd gear had to be included in the protracted hill to drop by. The engine is dead of course.
We looked — that's it — the main couples are regular — 3.9. It goes without saying that they are not at all suitable for such wheels, if you want to somehow increase the acceleration rate, then you just need to change them to at least 4.3. As soon as the pairs were replaced, the Niva really went, and how, the acceleration became like that of a sports car, practically)) That is, by replacing the pairs, we really increased the dynamics of the car.
By default, new Niva and Shnivy are now equipped with “high-speed” pairs 3.9 (this is from the “six”)
There are others (increased number):
- 4.3 is "penny"
- 4.4 - from the "kopeck piece"
I just moved to a Chevy from a VAZ 2106 and was surprised for a long time - I accelerated to 80 much faster on a Shorik than on a Shevik. The Shesterik is lighter, and the engine is almost the same. The maximum speed on the VAZ 2106 squeezed 140 km / h from the hill, and on the Chevrolet - only 110.
The question immediately arises - is it worth changing pairs if the wheels are regular 205/70 / R15? In general, people checked and this is what they found out - the dynamics of the car will still get better if you put pairs of 4.3. And if the wheels are 29″, then it’s better to put 4.44 at once. Even with stock wheels and a stock GPU, the car rides worse than with larger wheels and a 4.3 GPU.
The GP on 4.3 looks like this:
These cost about 5-6 thousand for two pairs. It is clear that boo, because new ones are not being released now.
What will happen to the car when changing the GP?
The basis is a GPU with a larger gear ratio increases torque. And this means that:
The machine will become more high-torque, it will grasp very famously. It will be better to ride on the backcountry tight when you need to drive through a dangerous area and not dig in. You will not stall anymore)) Well, you will switch around the city more often, because the number of revolutions will always be higher. And in general, you can immediately start from the second traffic light - no problem.
Gasoline consumption will decrease, because now you need to “put pressure on the sneaker” to accelerate, you need to be weaker. And this is also a weighty argument for replacing the GPU.
On the highway, you will already begin to use 5th gear (on GP 3.9 I rarely even use fifth, everything is in fourth, especially if the full load is for people and luggage).
How much does it all cost - together with the work it will cost 12 thousand. However, you will immediately notice such an upgrade, and if the wheels on your Chevy Niva are at least 215/75 / R15, then God himself ordered to change the pairs. You can still ride on stock, but with big wheels definitely needs to be changed, because the dynamics will be just nikakshaya. So you will be surprised - why the car does not go.
There are many reasons for the deterioration of the dynamics, the main ones can be defined as follows:
1. Engine malfunction - a decrease in compression in one or more cylinders, suction of additional air into the engine intake tract. Coking of the exhaust system or damage to the exhaust gas converter.
2. Malfunction of the power supply system - clogging of the nozzles and fuel filter, hoses of the fuel supply system. Insufficient fuel pump supply. The use of low-quality fuel.
3. Malfunction of the ignition system - failure of the spark plug, breakdown of the high-voltage circuit of the system.
4. Malfunction of the engine management system - failure of the system sensors. If any sensor fails the electronic unit control switches to work according to a backup program that allows you to get to a garage or car service, but at the same time, the power and economic characteristics of the engine are reduced.
5. Clutch slip due to wear or misadjustment.
6. Fault brake system- braking of one or more wheels on the move, incorrect adjustment of the parking brake.
7. Insufficient pressure air in tires.
8. Car overload.
A complete diagnosis of the car should be carried out by highly qualified craftsmen using special diagnostic equipment, so contact a car service.
You can independently carry out the following work:
1. Check and adjust the air pressure in the tires.
2. Check the operation of the service brake system and parking brake. It is not necessary to remove the wheels for this. Find a flat section of the road and in dry, calm weather, conduct a ride to determine the run-out of the car. The car must be fully fueled, only the driver is in the cabin. Accelerate the vehicle to 50 km/h, level off the speed, and then disengage the gear and coast to a complete stop. Make another run in the opposite direction. The overrun should be about 500 m.
3. Check the operation of the ignition system as described above.
4. Check clutch operation. The initial check is carried out on a flat, obstacle-free area. Set the accelerator pedal to a higher speed idle move- about 1500 min-1. Brake the vehicle with the parking brake. Depress the clutch and engage first gear. Then begin to slowly release the clutch pedal. If the engine stalls - the clutch is working properly and does not slip. If the engine does not stall, the clutch is worn out and needs to be replaced (manual clutch adjustment is not provided in operation, wear is automatically compensated by a device in the hydraulic drive cylinder).
There are many reasons for the deterioration of the dynamics, the main ones can be defined as follows:
1. Engine malfunction - a decrease in compression in one or more cylinders, a change in valve timing when the drive belt jumps camshaft, suction of additional air between the carburetor and the combustion chamber in the engine. Coking of the exhaust system.
2. Malfunction of the power system - clogging of the entire system, fuel filters, carburetor. Insufficient fuel pump supply. Incorrect carburetor adjustment (mixture too lean or too rich). The use of low-quality fuel.
3. Malfunction of the ignition system - failure of the spark plug, breakdown of the high-voltage circuit of the system, incorrect setting of the ignition timing.
4. Clutch slip due to wear or misadjustment.
5. Malfunction of the brake system - braking of one or more wheels on the move, incorrect adjustment of the parking brake.
6. Insufficient tire pressure.
7. Car overload.
Full diagnostics of the car must be carried out by highly qualified craftsmen using special diagnostic equipment, therefore go to car service.
You can independently carry out the following work:
1. Check and adjust the air pressure in the tires.
2. Check the operation of the service brake system and parking brake. It is not necessary to remove the wheels for this. Find a flat stretch of road and, in dry, calm weather, drive to determine coastdown car. The car must be fully fueled, only the driver is in the cabin. Accelerate the vehicle to 50 km/h, level off the speed, and then disengage the gear and coast to a complete stop. Make another run in the opposite direction. The overrun should be about 500 m.
3. Check the operation of the carburetor and ignition system as described above.
Warning
Take a test drive. If, after increasing the ignition timing during a sharp acceleration, detonation appears - you will hear ringing metallic knocks lasting more than 2 seconds (the so-called finger knock), the ignition timing will have to be reduced to its original value. Engine operation with detonation is strictly unacceptable!
5. Check clutch operation.
The initial check is carried out on a flat, obstacle-free area. Set the control knob air damper increased idle speed - approximately 1500 min -1. Depress the clutch, engage first gear and depress the brake pedal. Then begin to slowly release the clutch pedal. If the engine stalls - the clutch is working properly and does not slip.
In this case, check the adjustment of the clutch actuator. (See "Clutch Actuator Adjustment" below.)
If these measures do not give the desired effect, contact a car service for complete diagnosis car.
Clutch drive adjustment
PROCEDURE
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Makar 06-05-2008 10:45
There is a car field injector. periodically she has the following ziher. the car doesn't pull. And it happens quite randomly. the car can drive normally for a week, and then bang and does not pull. To Troilus does not look like. Equally does not pull on gas and gasoline. took the catalytic converter out, same thing.
Candles changed
where to look for an ambush.
ignition module? but does it seem to work or not?
sergAY 06-05-2008 10:57
Look at the speed sensor on the box, it was he who was lying with a friend, but about the module, it can short on the case and does not pull, such garbage also happens.
Counter Striker 06-05-2008 11:10
What pump does she have? If there is an electric one, the receiving mesh may be clogged or the pump itself may be sloppy.
Jew 06-05-2008 11:14
quote: ignition module? but does it seem to work or not?
change nah, the same situevina was, although ..... also not a fact, maybe mash in the tank and a net, we had the whole complex
Makar 06-05-2008 11:27
The network has been changed. I'll try changing the module.
xytaxis 06-05-2008 11:38
oh .. by the way, this garbage also began to emerge .... sometimes, extremely rarely ... but I have a current at speed ... you accelerate more, somewhere over 100, and then it’s as if someone is behind rear axle hold starts, and everything falls. you will coast, about 20 meters, you will rub gears, and you will drive normally again.
Counter Striker 06-05-2008 11:59
These are symptoms of either a clogged exhaust or a lack of fuel. In the second case, if it is an electric pump, turn off the return line and accelerate if they stop holding the tail - it is either the mesh is clogged, or the pump itself. True, it is worth doing this when the symptom is already permanent. And if occasionally - try to change the grid, otherwise, with a clogged grid, you can steal the pump.
wmczr 06-05-2008 12:19
I also had a similar byaka, after refueling with left-handed gasoline, it turned out to be a replacement for the carburetor. Oh yes, the Niva was carbureted
Jew 06-05-2008 12:28
quote: oh .. by the way, this kind of garbage also started to surface .... sometimes, extremely rarely ... but my current appears at speed ... you accelerate more, somewhere over 100, and then as if someone starts holding the rear axle and everything falls down. you will coast, about 20 meters, you will rub gears, and you will drive normally again.
Apshedun 06-05-2008 12:54
If the car drives equally on gasoline and on gas, as the author writes, fuel system can be excluded from the list of possible faults.
module IMHO.
SandmanJK 06-05-2008 12:57
quote: Originally posted by Apshedun: If the car runs equally on gasoline and gas, as the author writes, the fuel system can be excluded from the list of possible malfunctions.Hmm.. Exactly!
xytaxis 06-05-2008 15:19
in fact, the on-board computer at the same time showed the flow rate for 40 liters and the feeling was that it was treading and they would grab it, let it go, grab it, but we had the whole package: water and a module, the grid was waved after finding water
her ... everything is ok. I've scored so far ..., such a rare glitch that I don't want to catch it. when it breaks we'll do it.
"A good knock will come out" (c)
NE 06-05-2008 22:21
Its scanner, sensors can junk, CHECK does not always light up.
Makar 07-05-2008 10:49
changed the ignition module, it seems to be better. let's take a train and see
Jew 07-05-2008 11:57
quote: changed the ignition module, it seems to be better. let's take a train and see
Ramil 07-05-2008 15:56
maybe from weather conditions envy. I'm serious. For example, smog and dust on the street. Or atmospheric pressure affects. Shake the air filter
SandmanJK 08-05-2008 12:08
quote: Originally posted by Ramil: Shake the air filterWhy shake him when he costs a hundred rubles
Ramil 08-05-2008 12:39
SandmanJK, then throw this one out as unnecessary air filter
Makar, I had this on the collective farm. Once I was driving along a viaduct with my mother. At some point on the rise, the car stopped pulling at a speed of 40 km / h. It doesn't pull at all. At the first speed, everything is fine, at the second it accelerated with difficulty, at the third, the acceleration was generally very long, up to 60 it could accelerate from half a minute. Let's go to the trail. a day with a relative at the car service where he works. they said that they didn’t know what the matter was, the first thing that could be done was to listen to how the engine was running at XX. Worked normally, did not troil. Next, we decided to rinse the nozzles (anyway for that, for beer and chocolate to a relative). Pulled out all 4 nozzles, began to wash. Two nozzles work fine, something drips from the third one, nothing even drips from the last one. Those. The car ran on 2 cylinders. Promli forsuki, then went normally already.
qwwerty 08-05-2008 13:55
Does the machine give any errors?
To begin with, it would be necessary to put a small microcomputer, with error codes. Such on a 2-digit gas-light indicator. It costs 500 rubles. It shows the main parameters of the sensors and error codes. If it shows gaps in the work of candles, then - MZ. If it does not show errors, then either the DMRV or the same MOH. But we must take into account that once the MOH was changed, it would be necessary to check / change the candles and BB wires to the heap. For if one of them is faulty, the MOH will not last long.
xytaxis 11-05-2008 12:55
quote: Originally posted by Jew:
someone told me in my ear that they die every 2-3 years
Hmm .. I have been living for the fifth year
quote: Originally posted by qwwerty:
And the DMRV is often buggy, not showing errors. But here you can check by putting a new DMRV for a while and comparing.
You can generally try turning off the MAF.
P.S> by the way, I cured this glitch the other day by flushing the gas pump grid (because there was no new one on sale), and removing iron shavings from the gas tank.
But in view of the fact that your car does not pull on gas either .. one must assume that this is not your option.
cad 11-05-2008 23:52
Could the catalytic converter be pierced? ....
Makar 12-05-2008 11:49
catalytic converter broken.
It seems that after replacing the module, the car drives normally.
The muffler burned out. but I don't think it's related