Almost all motorists are familiar with the problem of rapid failure of LED lamps. Which are often placed in side lights, daytime running lights (DRLs) or other lights.
Typically, these LED lamps have low power and current consumption. What, in fact, determines their choice.
The LED itself can easily serve in optimal conditions for more than 50,000 hours, but in a car, especially a domestic one, it is sometimes not enough for a month. First, the LED begins to flicker, and then completely burns out.
What explains this?
The lamp manufacturer writes the marking “12V”. This is the optimal voltage at which the LEDs in the lamp operate almost at maximum. And if you supply 12 V to this lamp, it will last at maximum brightness for a very long time.So why does it burn out in the car? Initially, the voltage of the car’s on-board network is 12.6 V. An overestimation of 12 is already visible. And the voltage of the network of a running car can reach up to 14.5 V. Let’s add to all this various surges from switching powerful high- or low-beam lamps, powerful voltage pulses and magnetic interference when starting the engine from the starter. And we get not the best network for powering LEDs, which, unlike incandescent lamps, are very sensitive to all changes.
Since often in simple Chinese lamps there are no limiting elements other than a resistor, the lamp fails due to overvoltage.
During my practice, I changed dozens of such lamps. Most of them did not serve even a year. Eventually I got tired and decided to look for an easier way out.
Simple voltage stabilizer for LEDs
To ensure comfortable operation for LEDs, I decided to make a simple stabilizer. Absolutely not difficult, any motorist can repeat it.All we need:
- - a piece of PCB for the board,
Stabilizer circuit
The circuit is taken from the datasheet for the L7805 chip.
It's simple - on the left is the entrance, on the right is the exit. Such a stabilizer can withstand up to 1.5 A load, provided that it is installed on a radiator. Naturally, for small light bulbs no radiator is needed.
Stabilizer assembly for LEDs
All you need to do is cut out the required piece from the PCB. There is no need to etch the tracks - I cut out simple lines with a regular screwdriver.Solder all the elements and you're done. No setup required.
Thermal blower serves as the housing.
Another advantage of the circuit is that it is fashionable to use a car body as a radiator, since the central terminal of the microcircuit body is connected to the minus.
That's all, the LEDs no longer burn out. I’ve been driving for more than a year and forgot about this problem, which I advise you to do as well.
And other daytime running lights are of good quality. But, as for so-called “no name” goods, the quality leaves much to be desired. Therefore, when working with such daytime lights, they often cause problems and inconveniences, for example, they break down, or problems arise with the operation of the diodes.
The appearance of all Chinese ones is quite stylish. They have durable transparent plastic glass with a special protective film applied, which must be removed before installation. The body of all DRLs is strong and shock-resistant, and the mounting brackets are metal and are universal, allowing you to install the device on any car. There are bolts that allow you to adjust the tilt of the devices. The kit comes with 4 self-tapping screws or screws, with wide and dimensional washers for fixation. This design and mounting is often ideal for cars from the Japanese automobile industry.
What do we see on our roads?
The result of purchasing low-quality ones is visible on our roads. That is, when purchasing nameless Chinese-made DRLs, you can notice how some of the LEDs that make up the module do not light up or flicker, the modules do not light up, or processes such as turning off the DRLs when turning on the headlights and low beams, and so on, do not function. Sometimes, if the assembly is of very poor quality, LEDs can even flash due to current breakdown.
The main malfunctions of low-quality DRLs
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Flicker. One or more LEDs blink rapidly, which reduces the quality of the glow and affects the efficiency of the device. |
Flashing. Intermediate activation and deactivation of diode light, which also negatively affects the efficiency of daytime running lights. |
Combined blink. This is the most unpleasant thing about daytime lights, since individual diodes or an entire row begin to deactivate alternately in one or another row. |
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What to do, because it is strictly forbidden to use such running lights outside the city and in the city, since they do not meet the safety requirements for movement on the road. In order to change the position, modifications must be made or tuning done to such running lights. By examining different running lights made in China, you can see that the design is almost identical.
The first thing you can see is that the manufacturers of such low-quality materials have completely forgotten about what a sealant is. Despite the fact that the two parts of the module are fastened with screws, there is a gap between them, and this absolutely should not exist. In rainy weather, it is through this gap that moisture and debris will get inside, which instantly disables the diodes - they simply burn out.
The second thing that is poorly made in the Chinese daytime lights without a name is the board itself with LEDs. You can notice the following - the board is assembled according to the simplest principle, using low-quality LEDs as a basis, that is, emitters and a simple current-limiting resistor.
It is worth noting that most of the LEDs in such products are of the super-bright type, and accordingly, they operate on direct current and a slight deviation from this norm leads to their rapid failure. Chinese manufacturers take 3 diodes connected in series and connect them to one resistor, which entails problems with the operation of the device.
To approach the issue of modification correctly and transform low-quality DRLs, you need to stock up on the following details:
- Several 12V DC voltage stabilizers. You can take any stabilizer with these parameters - it will be ideal.
- Electrolytic capacitor that will fit under the daytime running light housing.
- High quality silicone sealant.
- Electrical tape, a soldering iron and the entire accompanying kit, as well as patience, perseverance and attentiveness.
How to fix DRL defects?
First, in order to stabilize the further operation of the LED device, it is necessary to equalize the current. That is, it is necessary to resort to installing a special voltage stabilizer. If you have a voltage of 12V on the box with diodes, then you need to purchase a miniature stabilizer with the corresponding indicator. It is worth noting that in cars the voltage is not constant and even, and fluctuates from several units, which is typical during startup and can rise to 14V, which is typical when charging the battery. If you install a stabilizer, it will control the supply of only 12V current to the device. Also, it is very important to eliminate voltage fluctuations in order to bring the DRL operation to a stable mode. To eliminate this, experts recommend installing an electrolytic polar capacitor with a high-capacity characteristic. It must be installed to the common diode buses on the board itself, connecting it to the output of the stabilizer. It is worth noting that it is necessary to strictly adhere to polarity during installation.
Firstly, if you carry out the manipulations described above, the diodes will be ignited gradually and smoothly, which may not be noticed, but it is so. Secondly, thanks to the installation of a stabilizer, there is no reverse current flow, and the module is deactivated gradually, which can be seen with the naked eye. Such measures provide the LEDs with better operating conditions and also allow them to increase their service life several times, which is important for you as the buyer of this product. And the last thing to do in this case is to use silicone sealant. They need to process the edges of all parts of the case that are in contact with each other in order to remove gaps and prevent moisture and dust from getting inside the case.
If you are a careful driver and are concerned about the condition of your car, the durability of LED running lights, lamps, strips and other light sources, then you simply need this voltage stabilizer!
What is the use of it you ask?
- Possibility of adjusting the output voltage in the range from 1.3 to 30 Volts;
- Eliminates short voltage surges;
- Extends the service life of LEDs several times;
- Possibility of installing equipment designed to operate on a 12 Volt network on trucks;
- Saves your money and time.
Every driver knows that the voltage in a car's network ranges from 12.2 to 14.4 Volts. This has a detrimental effect on the operation of LEDs, which require a constant voltage value. An adjustable stabilizer is widely used in lighting tuning using tapes or slats, because they are defenseless against power surges.
Peculiarities:
- Power supply from 12 or 24 Volts;
- Reliable board and modern chip;
- Convenient output voltage regulator;
- One of the most compact in its class;
- Works only to reduce voltage;
- Affordable price.
Characteristics:
- Model: LM2596
- Current - constant
- Input voltage: 3-40 Volts
- Maximum current: 3 Amps
- Conversion efficiency: 93%
- Output Ripple:< 30мВ
- Switching frequency: 65 kHz
- Operating temperature: -45 to + 85
- Size: 43 x 21 x 14 mm
- Warranty: 6 months
Equipment:
- 1 x Adjustable Voltage Stabilizer
Connection:
2 contacts labeled IN+ and IN- are connected to the power source by soldering the positive and negative wires, respectively. A consumer (DRL, strip, LED module, etc.) is connected to two contacts on the opposite edge - the positive wire is to the OUT+ mark, the negative wire is to the OUT- mark. To calibrate the stabilizer, place a multimeter at the output and set the desired value by rotating the adjusting screw.
By purchasing a stabilizer for diode lamps, you will be confident in the durability of your lighting!
If you only need 12 Volts at the output, then you can buy a 12 Volt voltage stabilizer for LEDs in cars
It is very easy to purchase an adjustable voltage stabilizer 12/24V 3A in the Electro-kot online store - just click on the add to cart button, fill out the required fields and select a convenient delivery method.
Many car enthusiasts have already heard about the benefits of DRLs and are starting to look for a decent model in stores. The assortment is widely represented by Chinese junk costing from 300 to 5000 rubles. Some don’t even understand why they should be installed on a car and buy junk for 500 rubles, which shines a little brighter than its dimensions, with a power of 2 watts. You've probably seen these, they still glow blue, and some of the LEDs don't light up or blink. Then they have the problem of how to wire up the running lights to make them last longer. Garage craftsmen offer various DRL connection schemes, the most difficult thing is to choose the right one.
Common names that will be used in the text: DRL "Daytime Running Lights", daytime running lights.
- 1. Types of connection
- 2. Operating mode
- 3. How to connect DRL with control unit
- 4. DRL controller
- 5. Select a stabilizer
- 6. Connection via relay
- 7. Other less popular methods
- 8. Installation check
- 9. Example of benefit
Types of connection
DRL Eagle eye, eagle eye
The connection diagram for running lights depends on the configuration and your budget. There are 3 types of configuration:
- the most inexpensive, only DRL;
- average in price, stabilizer included;
- expensive, with a control controller.
If you have the cheapest and worst ones, then the kit does not include a controller or control unit. Such a unit performs the function of a voltage stabilizer and on/off control.
The average configuration includes a 12V voltage stabilizer. There are voltage surges in the car network, and LEDs really don’t like this and fail. The stabilizer will significantly extend the life of the LEDs. But in this option, you will have to choose a place for connection so that they turn on only when the engine is running. There are many places for this, for example an oil pressure sensor or a generator.
Domestic model
The expensive version is equipped with a control unit that connects directly to the battery in the car. According to the principle of operation, they are of two types:
- determine the difference between the number of volts when the engine is off and on;
- cheaper, it turns on when the voltage rises above 13V.
The best option is the first one, regardless of the voltage on your battery, always turn it on and off correctly. The second option is budgetary and does not always work. With the engine off, the number of volts must drop below 13V for the controller to turn off the DRL. However, if your battery is new or well charged, then even after stopping the engine, it will have a voltage above 13V for up to several hours. That is, the daytime running lights will not turn off on their own until there is less than 13V. The only drawback will be its own power consumption when the controller is waiting for the engine to start. It will drain the battery along with the security alarm.
Operating mode
According to technical regulations for cars, DRL should automatically turn on when the engine starts. When you turn on the low beams, they should turn off automatically so as not to dazzle at night.
There are also combined models with installed turn signals on sale. The turn signal duplication section is connected separately in parallel to the standard turn signals. Having a stable diet is also a must.
DRL with turn signal
For models with additional control, there is a follow-up backlight function that works for 10 minutes after the engine is turned off. It illuminates your path to your home or dugout, depending on where you live. Osram DRL has a mode in which they do not turn off, but dim by 50%. I just don’t know how legal it is and whether it will cause blindness.
How to connect DRL with control unit
DRL controller
I prefer the DRL connection diagram using a control unit, the most reliable method, suitable for any car and does not require any knowledge. Many car enthusiasts buy a DRL control unit from AliExpress - it is inexpensive, and the reviews seem to be good. However, most reviews are left either upon receipt of the product or after several days of use. In fact, absolutely all DRL controllers from AliExpress are short-lived and have the following disadvantages:
- the operating principle does not comply with GOST;
- there is no stabilization (for the majority);
- low quality of materials and workmanship;
- the features of the vehicle’s on-board network are not taken into account;
- no guarantee;
- some do not have moisture protection.
Among the high-quality options, I can highlight the DayLight+ DRL control unit from a Russian manufacturer, which fully complies with GOST and is of good quality. The DayLight+ controller also has built-in stabilization, which will significantly increase the life of the running lights.
Choosing a stabilizer
In this form, the first and second methods will be combined. Even if your daytime running lights do not have a stabilizer, I recommend purchasing one or making it yourself.
You can buy Chinese modules at prices ranging from 50 to 120 rubles, so as not to order on Aliexpress, take a look at Avito, you can find very reasonable prices. The most common modules are pulse LM2596 and linear LM317. They are of course outdated, but they will draw a current of 1 ampere, which will be a power of 12 watts.
The XL6009, XL4015 chips are considered modern for 2016. They have higher efficiency and heat up much less. They can withstand a current of 2 Amps without a chip cooling system, this is equivalent to a load of 24 watts.
Connection via relay
On forums and websites you will find different ways to connect daytime running lights with your own hands; it will be different for each brand. Specialized relays are also sold, for example Forget-me-not, designed for any car.
The operating principle is simple. Power to the daytime running lights is supplied from the ignition switch wire. The positive wire from the far and near breaks the circuit when voltage appears on it. A 5-pin relay is sufficient for this. First, look for a solution on forums that specialize only in the make of your car. Perhaps you will find a simpler solution.
For example, in Duster you can connect the DRL to the cigarette lighter; voltage is supplied to it only when the ignition is turned on. This is better than looking for the ignition wire in the wiring. In any case, I recommend installing a fuse in case of a short circuit.
Many circuits use a gauge wire to disable the DRL. This is incorrect DRL should not go out when the headlights are turned on, only when low beam is on.
Another type of connection diagram for daytime running lights is the installation of a relay in the standard relay block of a car without any upgrades. It includes 30% or 50% distant, which will be enough to identify vehicles on the road. If the distant one consumes 120W, then 30% equals approximately 36W, 50% equals 60W.
Other less popular methods
Many people are interested in how to connect DRLs without a relay on their own, but it depends on the electrical system of your car; look for a solution in online clubs dedicated to your car. The most important thing is that power is supplied to this place after the engine starts.
The basic diagram for connecting the DRLs is through a 4 or 5 contact relay, which turns off when the low one is turned on. Those who are not too lazy to rummage through the car’s wiring can connect it from the oil pressure sensor or generator. On any vehicle, when the engine starts, the oil pressure light on the dashboard lights up, the signal from this wire is used to supply power. The second way to connect running lights yourself is to connect to a generator. They will turn on automatically when voltage appears on the generator.
Verifying the installation
Most car owners, after connecting the running lights with their own hands, like to take a photo of their junk. To make it less dim, they do this at night from close range. Due to their illiteracy, they do not know that they need to check in sunny weather from a distance of 100 meters. That's why they are called daytime and not nighttime.
Example of benefit
When traveling short distances in winter, especially in severe frost, a large amount of battery energy is spent on starting the engine. Over time, the battery loses its capacity and holds its charge worse. Using DRLs instead of low beams will allow you to charge the battery faster while driving.
Let's do the math:
- low beam consumes about 100W, 2 lamps approximately 50W each;
- decent DRLs up to 15W;
- 100W – 15W = 85W less energy will be consumed.
For example, in my Duster there is a standard heating element that heats the interior until the engine warms up. Accordingly, the car will warm up faster.