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Ski bindings adjustment. Alpine ski binding adjustment

Fasteners for ski sports equipment perform two functions: transferring forces to the equipment and detaching from the runners in the event of a threat of injury. They are a drive, which is an intermediate link between the leg and the skis. Factors that ensure both safety and speed of movement depend on their quality. Proper adjustment of ski bindings guarantees the fulfillment of the tasks.

Fasteners are installed on skis or platforms. Often they are made by manufacturers along with mounts and have holes for their installation. You need to purchase all components from one manufacturer. Otherwise, you will have to customize the details.

The part has two parts and a plate:

  • plate under the front of the boot. It provides a low degree of friction;
  • the task of the front part is to separate the boot in the lateral direction;
  • at the rear, it detaches upwards.

Coverage is carried out according to standard sizes. This allows you to use the shoes of any company. You don't need to select it specifically.

According to their design, fasteners are divided into:

  • with manual clasp;
  • with semi-automatic or automatic fastening.

Each type has disadvantages. In the first case, the high cost of models, and in the second, the likelihood of a quick breakdown if water gets into the clasp and freezes. Often jams if there is no support on a hard surface.

Fixture setup rules

Before going to the ski track, the ski bindings are adjusted. To do this, you need to know a couple of nuances.

On the front of the fastener there is a scale with which the adjustment is performed. Each mark on it means the weight of the skier, reduced by 10 times. For example, "5" means that the weight is 50 kg. The bottom line is that with an effort of 50 kg, the ski will independently detach from the boot.

A screw is located in the end part of the front part. With its help, the scale indicators are changed. Usually it turns tight, so you have to make an effort.

On the back, the scale is hidden under the clamping mechanism. The principle of adjustment is similar to the front coverage. Adjustable with a screw.

Weight adjustment can be done either manually or automatically.

Fixture Adjustment Tools

To set up you will need tools:

  • directly sports equipment, fasteners for it, boots;
  • yardstick;
  • screwdriver;
  • screwdriver;
  • drill;
  • screws.

The set of tools depends on the installation method:

  • with drilling;
  • through embedded platforms.

Ski binding force adjustment

Adjustment of fasteners is carried out taking into account several factors:

  • taking into account the experience and manner of skiing skier;
  • adjustment of the ski binding according to the weight of the user.

The adjustment is made so that during intensive skiing the device does not come off.

Adjustment rules:

  1. The indicator at which the device will operate is determined. For this, the weight of an experienced skier is divided by 10. For those who have skied recently, a couple of units are subtracted from the figure obtained.
  2. The maximum value of the adjustment indicators is determined by the formula: the user's weight is divided by 10. The error is 1 - 2 points in any direction.
  3. Often the force indicator is presented in kilograms and not in units. With this option, the weight of the skier is taken away within 30 - 40 kg.
  4. You can help to correctly set the indicator of effort using a special table. It is included with the purchase of the mounting system.

In the absence of tuning experience, problems arise. In this case, a specialist will be able to guarantee high quality.

Using built-in rails and platforms

The setup process is easier in sports equipment using rails or platforms. The advantages of this option include:

  • do-it-yourself equipment assembly;
  • from the tools you need one screwdriver;
  • Allows adjustment to fit any size boot. The manufacturer doesn't matter;
  • it is possible to move the center of the ski boots.

Along with the advantages, there are also disadvantages:

  • the range of fasteners of this type is limited;
  • after some time, the device is displaced and a gap is formed. In this case, ski control becomes more complicated. It is impossible to get pleasure from such skating;
  • the weight of the skis increases significantly, which interferes with the performance of some of the serious elements performed by skiers with experience.

After self-installation of fasteners, they must be adjusted. Often inventory is bought with mounts already installed. In these cases, the sales assistant in the store can adjust them. Some companies require specialist tuning. Trying it yourself will void the warranty.

  • adjustment is carried out carefully, without exceeding the established parameters;
  • with a decrease in the degree of effort, it will not be possible to enjoy riding. will bounce off every slight load. This brings a lot of problems.
  • Take into account the model of shoes. The type of sole is different from the standard. The degree of ski slip will be different.

Alpine skiing is a passion that has conquered more than one person. These are both professionals and amateurs of skiing. Full enjoyment of it will provide high-quality equipment. You need to purchase it only in specialized stores.

In order to ski confidently and safely, it is not enough just to put on special boots and insert them into ski bindings. Ski bindings still need to be adjusted. This is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance, but there are several nuances. Therefore, we will consider in detail how to set up ski bindings.

Ski bindings have a special design and consist of a head and a heel, which not only hold the boot, but also work when the skier falls, freeing the legs from the skis. All inventory, regardless of the manufacturer, is configured according to several parameters. This is the actuation force, depending on weight, height, level and riding style, and.

Trigger force

A skier's fall, even at low speed, is always a health hazard. And the skis attached to the legs are a powerful lever that threatens the lower limbs. Therefore, when falling, they must be unfastened, fastenings are responsible for this. But often riders run into bumps or small obstacles, and a certain tension of the mounts occurs. This situation does not threaten health at all, unless the skis come unfastened. To prevent this from happening, all fasteners have elasticity, measured in special units - DIN. Different models have a different range of elasticity, the adjustment scales of which are located on the head and heel. customize this setting. It depends on height, weight and how confidently and aggressively a person rides. Depending on the level of skiing, skiers are divided into three groups:

  • initial - it includes beginners and people who prefer calm and comfortable skiing on green trails;
  • average. It includes riders who ride both slow and fast, and choose more difficult routes - blue, red and black;
  • sports - already from the name it is clear that this group includes professional athletes, as well as extreme sportsmen who ride fast, aggressively and mainly on red and black tracks.

Most modern models have special tables for calculating the actuation force, where the weight is indicated in one column, and the size of the boot is indicated in the other, at the intersection of these values ​​\u200b\u200bthe desired value of the actuation force for a beginner skier will be located. Riders in the middle group need to take the number from the line below, and athletes go down two lines.

If the purchased model does not have such a table, then you can determine the actuation force in another way. To find out DIN, you need to divide your weight by 10. You get a standard value that fits the average. If the skier is a beginner, then you need to reduce this number by another 30 percent, at the beginning of the season it is worth reducing the standard number by 10 percent. Athletes and riders with more experience, on the contrary, increase the standard value. You will need a screwdriver to adjust the actuation force. The screws are located in front of the head and in the back of the heel, knowing your DIN, you need to tighten the screw and set it on the ski mount scales. It is very important to correctly set the actuation force, and it is better to undertighten the screw than overtighten it. If the skis come off while skiing, you need to put more effort, adding ¼ values.

Boot size

Under the size of the sole of the boot is not at all difficult. To do this, you need to move the heel of the ski mounts along special rails to the heel, while the heel should stand on the pedal, and the toe should be pressed tightly against the lips of the head. To move the heel, depending on the specific model, a special screw or lock is used. If the size is set correctly, then the boot will snap in with some effort, and the heel will go back a couple of millimeters.

When setting up ski bindings, inserting boots, you need to make sure that the sole is clean, there should be no snow, water, and especially sand on it.

Thus, it is clear that the adjustment of ski bindings, although very responsible, is not at all difficult, you just need to take into account some of the points described in this article.

How do ski bindings work? How to configure and install them? What to look for when buying? Read this article and you will never buy a ski pig in a poke again.

Ski bindings are designed to transmit the commands of a person to skis as accurately as possible through the pressure of the legs on the boots. Then they go where they need to go. Together with them, it works great.

At the same time, the fasteners “monitor” the safety of the legs. As soon as there is a danger of injury, for example, when falling, they immediately release their legs from the skis.

In some places tanned (due to ski masks) the faces of the crew hung over the schemes of the mounts. The captain pushed his helmet over his eyes in puzzlement, scratched the back of his head with a broken ski-stop and muttered: “These damn bindings, damn them, have become too complicated, it's time to equip the expedition!
Hey on the coast, who wants to know more about ski bindings? Come on board, we're leaving!"

The main parts of ski bindings

All ski bindings consist of a front head and a back heel. Both parts have DIN actuation force adjustment mechanisms with digital scales.

The actuation force value (what a difficult set of three words to perceive!) is a number on the binding scale corresponding to a certain load at which the foot (boot) is released from the binding. That is, the mount works. The higher this value, the more force must be applied for the mount to work.

All bindings are equipped with ski stops - ski brakes, thanks to which the unfastened ski (usually) does not go far. The ski stops hit the slope and she stops.

Many models are equipped with a platform with “rails”, along which (using a special mechanism) both parts of the mount move to adjust to the size of the boot.

This is the general picture, now let's look at the details.

How ski bindings work

The front head presses the toe of the boot against the front of the ski. When the load on the leg becomes traumatic, the binding releases the boot. If the loads are not dangerous, then the mount softens them, allowing the boot to deviate from the central position.

Front head operation

See how the front head works:

In addition to moving black "cheeks", the video shows the so-called anti-friction plate, which shifts to the left / right when side loads occur on the legs. It will be discussed below.

In the picture below, the arrows show the directions of loads on the legs, under which the bindings work:


The picture shows three arrows, but one more is missing - up. Below, on the example of Tyrlia bindings, the work of the front head of modern bindings is shown - it moves not only in the horizontal plane, but also vertically, which allows you to free your legs when falling back.

The work of the back of the mounts

The back (heel) fixes the boot from behind, otherwise it performs the same functions as the front.

If the mount worked, there is no need to worry, you immediately fasten the skis back, having previously caught your breath and made sure that all parts of the body are intact. Just drop the heel down if it is still buttoned (front head has worked) and snap the boot back in.

On the track, you can often see beginners trying to get the boot into the binding with the heel up to no avail. This is their first time and no one has explained to them what needs to be done. If you see the poor fellows, don't drive past, because now you know the answer. You will be very grateful.

The picture shows that when falling, the backs on the skis remained in the upper position, they will need to be lowered.


Other technologies in mounts

In addition to fixing the boot and precise operation, the bindings must have a dosed elasticity. That is, with non-hazardous loads, allow the boot to move slightly relative to the ski to the left / right, each time returning it to its original position (remember the video above?).

But that's not all.

A boot caught in the bindings can prevent the middle zone of the ski from flexing exactly as the designers intended. Therefore, tricky systems are used in the bindings, which ensure the free deflection of the ski.

But the subtleties do not end there.

The bindings use mechanisms that not only allow the ski under the boot to flex freely, but also compensate for the inevitable convergence of the heel and front head with a strong deflection. We want to say that the ski-binding-boot bundle is a “living” mechanism, but a tightly knocked together and screwed construction.

Here's what we're talking about:

Video: Smart bindings know that this is the normal operation of the ski and the boots don't shoot.

Attachment segmentation

If so, then every skier will want to have reliable, accurate, sophisticated and durable bindings. But it will be expensive. However, the designers found a solution: not all of us need all the functions in full at once.

Athletes have the same requirements, active skiers have others, novice girls have third, and children have fourth. Different loads, operating conditions, the physical form of skiers, the speed of the descents, and finally the weight.

Accordingly, each brand produces a series of bindings for skiers of different levels and for different skiing options. Honestly assess your level of skiing and tell the seller - he will select the bindings you need.

Ski binding manufacturers

The main manufacturers of ski bindings are:

  • Vist (rare)

You also need to know that the mounts under the brands Elan, Head and Fischer are produced by the mentioned Tyrolia. And under the brands Blizzard, K2, Nordica and Volkl - Marker.

Regardless of the brand, all industry-leading fasteners provide reliable actuation. And to simplify the choice, the vast majority of skis are still factory equipped with the most suitable mounts and are sold in kits.

If skis and bindings are sold separately, manufacturers often indicate in catalogs (rather than store price lists) which binding models will work best with a particular ski model.

To be able to adjust the bindings according to the length of the soles of your boots, the bindings are mounted on special base platforms with adjustment systems.

Actuation force scale DIN

If you need to buy mounts separately or choose from the options offered, the main parameter is actuation force (number on the scale), which is measured in DIN units.

The set force is visible on the scales located on the front heads and heels of the bindings. Usually the desired value is selected with a screwdriver, but for beginners it is better to do this in a store or ski workshop. And for this you will need at least one boot in which you will ride.


In this picture, the DIN scale is 4–13.

If you are a beginner, then when you see DIN 8-16, 10-18 scales, you should recoil from them, such mounts are for aggressive riders. When it comes time to buy these, you will already know a lot about skiing.

The DIN force you need can be roughly determined by the following method. Divide your weight by ten. For example, your weight is 80 kg, which means the initial number is 8. Subtract about 20% (in our example, 6.5 will remain) and use a screwdriver to set the marks on all four scales to this number.

For beginners and older skiers, you need to reduce the effort by another 10% of the figure obtained - up to 6. If the bindings will be unfastened during normal skiing, gradually increase the effort simultaneously on all ¼ scales.

Choose fixtures so that your DIN value is centered on the scale, not close to the edge. That will be right.

And keep in mind: even if your weight exceeds a centner, it is highly not recommended to tighten the fasteners to the number “10” - it is too dangerous. Do not think that you have iron legs and they will withstand any load.

More precisely, you can set the actuation force according to the table below, which also takes into account another important parameter - the length of the sole of the boot.


Remember that ski boots from different manufacturers often have different sole lengths, even with the same foot size. This means that if during skiing you want to exchange skis with Masha, who also has a size 35, then it is far from a fact that your boots will fit her bindings. In most cases, fasteners need to be adjusted to the new size. Sometimes you may need a screwdriver, but not always:

And if you still exchanged skis, be sure to check the DIN value. It may not be suitable for your riding style and weight - the binding will work and release the boot at the most inopportune moment, and this is a threat of injury. There's no need for a screwdriver here.

Approximate force ranges

  • For the smallest children - 0.5-2.5 DIN
  • Children - 0.75-4.5 DIN
  • Junior - 2-6 (2.5-7) DIN
  • Simple models - 2.5-9 DIN
  • Universal models - 3-10 (3.5-11) DIN
  • For experts and riders - 4-12 (6-14) DIN
  • For athletes - scale up to 16 DIN and above

How to choose ski bindings

Since not all skiers need the most complex, most powerful, and therefore the most expensive bindings, manufacturers produce several product groups. Each - with a set of mechanisms and technologies that are most suitable for a specific group of riders.

Budget mounts - for beginners



Fairly light budget models are available for those who ride at low and medium speeds. This design saves from injuries during falls, which are typical for beginner skiers: they fall back or sideways, in which case there is a dangerous twisting load on the leg. The boot is released from the front head, moving sideways or sideways-up on a special slippery anti-friction plate.

Bindings for experienced riders

Somewhat more complex and powerful mounts for more experienced skiers. This is the most massive group of mounts, the more durable design of which already includes mechanisms that are triggered when falling forward - for example, in soft loose snow or on an icy track.

These mounts have less plastic and more metal, which makes them more reliable than the previous category.


Sports mounts

Even harder and more powerful bindings for freeriders and professional athletes. They use a metal frame or in general the entire structure is completely made of metal. More complex anti-friction mechanisms are used in the front head and vibration damping and shock absorption systems.



A separate group of bindings is for children and juniors. Depending on the specialization and weight of the young skier, various materials and structures are used, which, like in adults, can be simple and complex. Sometimes these are lighter-duty versions of powerful adult models.

Of course, such bindings also differ in size, because children's boots are smaller than adults.


Carefully and thoughtfully read the descriptions of the mounts on the manufacturer's website. Words such as "aggressive", "sports", "racing (cruising)" will mean that this is not a model for beginners.

Ski touring bindings (bonus)

There is a whole class of ski bindings for a ski tour, which is represented by two types of structures. The first is pin bindings, and they have little to do with our review, since they require special boots. If you do not know anything about them, then watch the video - to expand your ski horizons. Personally, I always look at such developments with awe!

But you definitely need to know about the second type - these are frame mounts. If you do not dive into the details (we have already dived deep!), Then these are ordinary mounts (described above), but planted on a special frame (hence the name).

Such mounts are suitable for both skiing up and downhill. These characteristics are important for those who ride off-piste and away from lifts.

This 2 minute video shows the difference between pin and frame mounts:

This is for your information. It is not advisable to buy such mounts at the initial stage of skiing - it is expensive.

Mounting installation

Installing ski bindings is too important a process to do on your own, especially if you are a beginner.

It is better to entrust this to specialists, because we are talking about the health of your feet. Don't forget to grab one boot - you'll need it when installing the bindings.

For your information, every serious store offers free installation of bindings immediately after the purchase of the kit (skis + bindings). Remember this.

Let's float!

We hope we managed to dispel that mystical fog around the ski bindings, in which we started our journey. And now you know how to buy what you really need and fit, and not what negligent sellers in unlucky stores are trying to cram into you.

Remember: most of us do not need powerful and expensive mounts, because for the most part we are amateurs.

Every year the popularity of skiing as an active sport is growing exponentially. Like any outdoor activity, skiing comes with a high risk of injury. Properly configured equipment is the key to comfortable and safe riding.

To adjust ski bindings, we need:

Flat head screwdriver

Flat surface for comfortable work

1. Let's start adjusting the bindings by adjusting the force exerted by the boot and the weight of the skier on the binding. If during the descent this force is exceeded, then the so-called "shooting" of the mount is triggered. This is done to prevent accidents when falling.

2.Before adjusting a mount, the scale on the front and back of each mount must be observed. The setting of this scale is responsible for adjusting the force of shooting. Each division on the scale is usually equal to 10kg (i.e. the value of 4 is 40kg.). It is recommended to set a weight value that is 15-20kg less than the actual weight of the skier.

The mount is adjusted by turning the screw located in front of the mount. Like this:

Often the screw is very tight, so feel free to turn it in the right direction. But do not forget to look at the readings of the slider, so as not to overdo it with the necessary settings!

The back of the mounts looks like this:

The settings scale is not always immediately visible. It can be located under the clamping part of the mount! (As indicated in the picture #3)

4. It is also very important to take into account not only the weight of the skier, but also the level of his physical fitness. Here the formula is very simple, the higher the level of training, the greater the strength of the allowable effort.

5. After setting up the fasteners, it is necessary to check them in conditions close to real ones. The easiest way to get on your skis and simulate a fall forward, if all the adjustments were set correctly, then the boot from the bindings should work. On the slope itself, you can try different loads on the bindings at low speeds and adjust the force to your needs.

And do not forget that the main task of any skier or snowboarder is to learn how to confidently stay on the slope and protect yourself and others from unwanted injuries!

After mounts installed on skis or in case you have changed boots, you must adjust mounts so as to provide a normalized actuation force. The first thing to do is try to fasten the boot in fastening. All mounts Salomon can be fastened manually by lifting the locking lever. In case this fails because mount adjusted on too large or small size of the boot, it is necessary to lift the bracket 7 with a flat screwdriver and move the heel part of the mount relative to the base slide forward or backward so that the boot is securely fixed in the closed mount. IN mounts the 850 and 900 series use the front Driver head with manual adjustment of the toe lock in the transverse direction of the boot (pictured). unscrew adjusting screws 4 (in the mounts of the 900 series, as well as in the models 897 and adjustment sponges - two screws, on each side of the front head) so that the toe of the boot does not rest against the wings. Make sure that the toe of the boot rests against the special stop on the front head. Fasten the boot in the binding. Make sure the arrows located on bracket 7 are in the middle of the recesses at the bottom rear of the box (for 900 models). On other models (right picture), the triangle stamped on the case mounts(shaded in red) should align with the grooved area on the bracket 7. If necessary, use the adjustment bracket 7 to move the heel part on the slide (marked with an arrow in the right figure) so that the arrows are in the correct position. You can find modifications mounts Salomon, in which this adjustment is carried out not by moving the bracket, but by rotating a special screw located between the actuation force adjustment screw 6 and the slide. When adjustments such mounts it is necessary to ensure that the outer side of the head of the adjusting screw is in the corrugated zone on the surface of the sled. without taking the shoes out mounts, adjust position the jaws of the Driver head with screws 4 so that both jaws touch the toe of the boot, but do not pinch it. In the Quadrax front head, the wings are installed automatically. without taking the shoes out mounts, unscrew the adjusting screw 1 for the height of the position of the wings of the front head. Press down on the boot, trying to tilt it back. Turn the screw in such a way that there is a gap of 0.5 mm between the sole of the boot and the friction pad. In the Quadrax front head, the mounting height is set automatically. Turn adjusting screws 3 and 6 to set the required actuation forces on scales 2 and 5.

Setting the actuation force depending on the parameters of the skier and the length of the sole of the boot. A table with such parameters is used in rentals.

Weight, kg Height, cm < 250 мм 251 - 270 mm 271 - 290 mm 291 - 310 mm 311 - 330 mm > 331 mm
10 - 13 0,75 0,75
14 - 17 1 1 0,75
18 - 21 1,5 1,25 1
22 - 25 1,75 1,5 1,5 1,25
26 - 30 2,25 2 1,75 1,5 1,5
31 - 35 2,75 2,5 2,25 2 1,75 1,75
36 - 41 3,5 3 2,75 2,5 2,25 2
42 - 48 < 148 3,5 3 3 2,75 2,5
49 - 57 149 - 157 4,5 4 3,5 3,5 3
58 - 66 158 - 166 5,5 5 4,5 4 3,5
67 - 78 167 - 178 6,5 6 5,5 5 4,5
79 - 94 179 - 194 7,5 7 6,5 6 5,5
> 95 > 195 8,5 8 7 6,5
10 9,5 8,5 8
11,5 11 10 9.5

Determine what type of skier you are: Type 1 - skis carefully, at low speeds, on small and medium slopes. In an attempt to reduce the risk of injury, sets on its own mounts less than necessary actuation force, which leads to untimely operation mounts. Type 2 - an average skier, rides at various speeds and on various slopes, including difficult ones. Type 3 - aggressive, dynamic skiing at high speed, mainly on medium and steep slopes. Trying to reduce the chance of untimely response mounts, sets more than necessary actuation force on its mounts, which leads to increased risk. According to the table, select the row corresponding to your height and weight. If these parameters are on different lines, select the top one. According to the table, select the column corresponding to the length of the sole of your boot. The figure at the intersection of the row and column corresponds to the recommended actuation force for type 1 skiers. For type 2 skiers it is necessary to go down one line, type 3 - 2 lines. For skiers over 50 years old, you must then go up 1 line. Note: if the corresponding intersection is empty, select the nearest value located in the selected line to the right.