classic model
UAZ 3741 is an all-wheel drive domestic utility vehicle, which in Soviet times was produced under the symbol UAZ 452. It received the popular nickname “loaf” for its characteristic body shape. In the factory configuration, it has an all-metal body, spring suspension and 2 drive axles with non-locking differentials that transmit power to all 4 wheels.
Rear-wheel drive is permanent, front-wheel drive is pluggable. Bridges are unified with UAZ 31512. Load capacity - 850 kg. Clearance - 220 mm. Repair of the UAZ 3741 front axle is extremely rarely required, since its design is quite reliable. Basically, it all comes down to replacing the wheel bearings and oil in the differential, ball and kingpins. But sometimes it is necessary to remove the bridge. And you have to do it yourself, since UAZ service centers are far from being everywhere.
We remove the faulty unit
Since the UAZ 3741 has a frame structure, it is quite easy to remove the front axle. To do this, you need to stock up on a powerful jack, stops that can withstand 1.5 tons of the weight of the front of the car, and a special liquid for unscrewing the nuts - WD-40.
The procedure is as follows.
- First you need to substitute the stops under the rear wheels.
- Then you need to disconnect the right and left brake pipes from the rubber hoses going to the front wheel brake drums.
- After that, unscrew the nuts securing the brake hoses and remove the hoses themselves.
- Next, you need to unscrew the nuts that secure the lower ends of the shock absorbers.
- After that, it is necessary to unscrew the bolts connecting the front cardan to the drive gear flange.
- Then you should unpin and unscrew the nut of the bipod ball pin.
- Next, you need to disconnect the traction from the bipod.
- Now you need to unscrew the nuts securing the stepladders of the front springs, remove the stepladders together with the linings and linings.
- At the end, raise the front of the car by the frame and pull the axle out from under the car.
After the old bridge is removed, you can proceed with the installation of a new part, following the steps in reverse order. If necessary, the removed unit is disassembled, troubleshooting is carried out, damaged parts are replaced and the bridge is reinstalled.
Correction of wheel axial play
The most common reason for the inadequate behavior of the UAZ 3741 car on the road is a violation of the axial clearance of the pivots. It is very easy to check whether it is broken or not - just raise the front end with a jack and try to shake the wheel up and down. If end play exists, the pivot clearance must be adjusted.
Adjustment is carried out as follows.
- We raise the front of the car, after putting the car on the handbrake.
- We dismantle the wheel.
- We unscrew the bolts securing the ball seal.
- We check the axial play by shaking the structure up and down with our hands.
- We unscrew a few bolts securing the upper lining of the king pin. We remove the cover.
- We take out the thinnest shim and put the pad back.
- We perform the same procedures with the lower kingpin pad.
- We tighten all the bolts and check the result. If the backlash is eliminated, we fasten the oil seal and wheel back - and we go. If the backlash remains, we adjust everything again, this time removing thicker gaskets.
Here is the node on the car
It is important to pull out equally thick gaskets both from above and below in order to maintain the alignment of the CV joint. If the alignment is broken, after a while you will have to make expensive repairs.
Many variants of bridges were installed on UAZ cars of different models and at different times at the plant. Let's try to figure this out...
Bridge UAZ Timken (civilian or collective farm)
This is a split type bridge, that is, a bridge consisting of two halves. This type can also be attributed (it is also geared or portal). From the factory, civil bridges are installed on UAZ cars of the cargo range (loaf, onboard,), as well as on cars of the UAZ-3151 (469) passenger car series.
Gear ratios of UAZ military bridges
The gear ratio of military bridges is 5.38 (= 2.77 * 1.94 - the gear ratios of the main and final drives, respectively) - more high-torque, but less speedy than conventional bridges.
Characteristics of the military bridge
- Ground clearance: 300 mm (with tires Ya-192 215/90 R15 (31 x 8.5 R15)
- Track: 1445 mm
- Track gear axles UAZ Bars: 1600 mm
- Weight of UAZ military front axle: 140 kg
- UAZ military rear axle weight: 122 kg
Scheme of the gear (military) bridge UAZ
Rear axle UAZ with final drive:
1 – a cover of a crankcase of the main transfer; 2 - differential bearing; 3,13,49 - shims; 4 - sealing gasket; 5.7 - bearings of the drive gear; 6.15 - adjusting rings; 8.42 - cuffs; 9 - flange;
10 - nut; 11 - mud deflector; 12 - ring; 14 - spacer sleeve;
16 - main gear drive; 17 - satellite; 18 - right axle shaft; 19 – final drive housing; 20.29 - oil deflectors; 21 - axle bearing; 22,26,40 - retaining rings; 23 - sealing gasket of the final drive housing; 24 – final drive housing cover; 25 - bearing; 27 - brake shield; 28 - brake drum; 30 – a bolt of fastening of a wheel; 31 - trunnion; 32 - hub bearing; 33.41 - gaskets; 34 - lock washer; 35 - leading flange; 36 – a nut of bearings of a nave; 37 - lock washer; 38 - sleeve; 39 - driven shaft final drive; 43 - driven shaft bearing; 44 - driven gear final drive; 45 - special nut; 46.50 - drain plugs;
47 - final drive gear; 48 – right cup of the box of satellites; 51 - main gear housing; 52 – half shaft gear washer;
53 - half shaft gear; 54 - the axis of the satellites; 55 - driven gear of the main gear; 56 - left cup of the satellite box; 57 - left half shaft
UAZ front axle steering knuckle with final drive:
a - signal groove;
I - right rotary fist; II - left rotary fist; III - wheel disconnect clutch (option see Fig. 180, IV); 1 - stuffing box; 2 - ball bearing; 3 – the hinge of a rotary fist; 4 - gasket; 5 - press grease fitting; 6 - kingpin; 7 - overlay; 8 - body of the steering knuckle; 9 - kingpin bushing; 10 - bearing; 11 - driven shaft of the final drive; 12 - hub; 13 - leading flange; 14 - clutch; 15 – lock ball; 16 - protective cap; 17 - coupling bolt; 18 - trunnion; 19 - lock nut;
20.23 - support washers; 21 - final drive gear; 22 - locking pin; 24 - rubber sealing ring; 25 - thrust washer; 26 - axle housing; 27 – a bolt of restriction of turn; 28 - emphasis-limiter of rotation of the wheel; 29 - steering knuckle lever
Construction of a military bridge (photo)
Video replacement and adjustment of the main pair on the UAZ military bridge
Bridges Spicer UAZ Patriot and Hunter
Spicer is not a split, one-piece bridge.
In the early 90s, for the new UAZ-3160 car, the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant developed Spicer-type drive axles with a one-piece crankcase.
The absence of a connector in the transverse plane of the bridge gives the structure high rigidity, the unloaded connection between the cover and the crankcase reduces the likelihood of leakage at the joint, and the placement of the main gear and differential in a single crankcase provides high engagement accuracy and more favorable conditions for the operation of the bearings.
- Width of bridges spicer for UAZ Patriot — 1600 mm
- Width of bridges Spicer for UAZ Hunter - 1445 mm
axle differential spicer
TIMKEN
Until July 1989, the main pair with a gear ratio of 5.125 (41 teeth) was installed in civil bridges, now it is with a gear ratio of 4.625 (37 teeth), i.e., more “fast”, but less “powerful”. You can find both in stores. Most likely, you will have to replace the “new” with the “old” main pair when installing very large wheels. It is recommended to replace the main pairs only as a complete set (in the front and rear axles), otherwise the front axle will have to be turned on exclusively in mud, snow, sand, etc., so as not to damage the transfer case and ruin the rubber. How to determine the gear ratio? It is necessary to twist the cardan with your hands and count the revolutions of the wheel. For example, 46 revolutions of the cardan - 10 wheels = a pair of 4.6, etc.
Front axle Timken UAZ
Possible malfunctions of the front axle, their causes and methods of elimination
The main gear and differential of the front axle UAZ 469 and UAZ 3151 are similar in design to the rear axle UAZ. All maintenance and repair instructions for the rear axle also apply to the front axle.
Rice. 1 steering knuckle:
a - signal groove; b - pointer; I - right rotary fist; II - left knuckle; III - wheel disconnect clutch; IV - wheel disconnect clutch (option); c - wheels are off; d - wheels are on; 1 - steering knuckle lever; 2 - axle housing; 3- stuffing box; 4.20 - gaskets; 5 - ball bearing; 6 - body of the steering knuckle; 7 - support washer; 8 - overlay; 9 - kingpin; 10 - grease fitting; 11 - locking pin; 12 - trunnion; 13 - wheel hub; 14 - leading flange; 15 - clutch; 16 - coupling bolt; 17 - lock ball; 18 - protective cap; 19 - kingpin bushing; 21 - inner clip; 22 - ring-partition; 23 - outer clip; 24 - rubber sealing ring; 25 - felt sealing ring; 26 - thrust washers; 27 - turn limiting bolt; 28 - stop-limiter of wheel turn; 29 - ring; 30 - leading slotted sleeve; 31 - connecting slotted sleeve; 32 - leading sleeve; 33 - cap; 34 - cover; 35 - cuff; 36 - pin; 37 - switch; 38 - ball; 39, 41 - springs; 40 - gasket; 42 - driven bushing; 43 - extension spring; 44 - body; 45 - locking ring
Additionally, maintenance and repair of steering knuckles is carried out (Fig. 1)
Maintenance
During maintenance of the front drive axle, check and, if necessary, adjust the tightness of the kingpin bearings, wheel toe and maximum steering angles, check and tighten the fastening of the steering knuckle lever, flush and change the grease in the steering knuckles. When inspecting the steering knuckles, pay attention to the serviceability of the stops-limiters 28 (Fig. 1) for turning the wheels, adjusting bolts 27 and the reliability of their locking.
Check and adjust the axial clearance of the pivots on the car in the following order:
1. Brake the vehicle using the parking brake or chock the rear wheels.
2. Jack up the front axle.
3. Turn away nuts of fastening of a wheel and remove it.
4. Turn away bolts of fastening of an epiploon of a spherical support and move aside an epiploon.
Rice. 2 Checking the adjustment of the king pins:
1- top pad; 2 - adjusting gasket; 3 - kingpin; 4 - bottom pad
5. Check up an axial backlash of pivots for what shake hands the case of a rotary fist up and down (fig. 2).
6. Turn away nuts of fastening studs of the lever 1 (see fig. 1) of a rotary fist or bolts of fastening of the top lining 1 (see fig. 2) and remove the lever or the top lining of the pivot.
7. Remove the thin (0.1 mm) shim and install the lever or trim in place.
8. Unscrew the fastening bolts and remove the bottom pad of the 4th kingpin, remove the thin (0.1 mm) shim and install the kingpin pad in place.
To maintain the alignment of the hinge, remove the gaskets of the same thickness from above and below.
Check the build results. If the gap persists, readjust by removing thicker shims (0.15 mm).
Large wear of pins 9 and bushings 19 (see Fig. 1) along the diameter causes a violation of the camber angle of the wheels, their "wobble" when driving and uneven tire wear. In this case, replace worn parts.
Rice. 3 Checking the maximum steering angles of the wheels
Check the maximum angles of rotation of the wheels on a special stand (Fig. 3). The angle of rotation of the right wheel to the right, and the left wheel to the left should be no more than 27 °. Adjust with bolt 27 (see Fig. 1).
Adjust the wheel alignment by changing the length of the tie rod. Before adjustment, make sure that there are no gaps in the steering rod joints and hub bearings; then, loosening the lock nuts (having right and left threads), turn the adjusting fitting to set the required wheel toe-in.
Rice. 4 Checking wheel alignment
Wheel alignment at normal tire pressure should be such that dimension A (Fig. 4), measured along the center line of the side surface of the tires in front, is 1.5-3.0 mm less than dimension B at the rear. After adjustment is complete, tighten the lock nuts. Tightening torque 103-127 Nm (10.5-13 kgf / m). Toe-in can be checked with a model 2182 GARO ruler.
Repair
To carry out repairs, remove the front drive axle from the vehicle and disassemble. After disassembling and washing the parts, check their condition and determine their suitability for further work. Repair the crankcase, main gear and differential in accordance with the instructions set out in the "Rear Axle" section. When bending the axle housing, edit it in a cold state. Replace worn parts of steering knuckles with new ones, using the data in Table. 3.9.
Remove the front axle in the following order:
1. Install blocks under the rear wheels of the car.
2. Disconnect the hydraulic brake lines on the left and right side members from the flexible hose going to the front wheel brakes. Loosen the nuts securing the flexible hoses and remove them. 3. Turn away nuts of fastening of the lower ends of shock-absorbers.
4. Turn away bolts of fastening of a forward propeller shaft to a flange of a leading gear wheel.
5. Loosen and remove the bipod ball stud nut, disengaging the link from the bipod.
6. Turn away nuts of fastening of step-ladders of forward springs, remove linings, step-ladders and slips. Raise the front of the car by the frame.
Note!!! When removing the spring suspension axle, follow steps 1-5. Then disconnect the stabilizer 16 (see Fig. 196) of the transverse stability from the trailing arms 1 of the suspension, the transverse link 2 from the bracket 11 on the frame, the rear ends of the trailing arms 1 from the brackets 5 on the frame.
Disassembly of the front axle
Disassemble the front axle in the following order:
1. Install the axle on the stand, unscrew the wheel nuts and remove the wheels.
2. Loosen and unscrew the nut securing the bipod link pin to the steering knuckle arm and remove the bipod link.
3. Turn away screws and remove brake drums.
4. Remove wheel disconnect couplings.
5. Straighten the bent edges of the lock washer, unscrew the nut and locknut, remove the lock washer and the inner ring with rollers of the outer bearing of the right and left wheel hubs.
6. Remove the wheel hubs.
7. Turn away bolts of fastening of brake boards, remove boards, pins of rotary fists and take out hinges of rotary fists.
8. Unsplint and turn away nuts of fastening of fingers and remove draft of a steering trapeze.
9. Turn away bolts of fastening of a spherical support to a semiaxle casing. Remove the stops-limiters of the rotation of the wheels and press the ball bearings out of the casings of the axle shafts.
10. Turn away nuts of fastening of the rotary lever on the case of a rotary fist. Remove the lever and set of shims.
11. Turn away bolts of fastening of the top overlay of a kingpin of other rotary fist and remove an overlay with a set of adjusting linings.
12. Turn away bolts of fastening of the lower overlays of pivots and remove overlays with a set of adjusting linings.
13. Turn away bolts of fastening of an epiploon of a spherical support and remove an epiploon of a spherical support.
Rice. 5 King pin puller
14. Press out the pins using the tool shown in fig. 5 and remove the steering knuckle housing.
Dismantle the steering knuckle without removing the front axle from the car in the following order:
1. Place blocks under the rear wheels of the car.
2. Jack up the front wheel on the side to be disassembled.
3. Perform the operations indicated above in paragraphs 2-10 of this chapter.
4. Turn away nuts of fastening of the rotary lever or bolts of fastening of the top overlay of a kingpin on the case and remove the lever or an overlay with a set of adjusting linings.
5. Turn away bolts of fastening of the bottom overlay of a kingpin and remove an overlay with a set of adjusting linings.
6. Turn away bolts of fastening of an epiploon of a spherical support.
7. Press out the pins with a tool and remove the steering knuckle housing.
Disassembly and assembly of constant velocity joints
Disassemble the hinges in the following order:
1. Mark with paint the mutual arrangement of the knuckles of the hinges.
2. Spread your fists, to do this, tap the fork of a short fist on a wooden stand.
3. Clamp the joint by the long fist in a vise with the short fist up.
Rice. 6 Dismantling the hinge
4. Turn the short fist towards one of the driving (peripheral) balls. If at the same time the opposite ball does not come out of the grooves, press or hit with a copper hammer (Fig. 6) on the short fist. When doing this, be careful, as one of the balls can fly out of the hinge at high speed.
5. Remove the rest of the hinge balls. After selecting new oversized balls (repair) or replacing one of the fists, assemble the hinge.
Assemble the hinges in the following order:
1. Clamp your long fist vertically in a vise.
2. Insert the center ball.
3. Install a short fist on the central ball so that the marks marked with paint coincide and, turning it from side to side, install three leading (peripheral) balls in turn.
4. Spread the fists 10-12 mm and rotate the short fist to the maximum angle away from the free grooves, install the fourth ball in the grooves.
5. Rotate the short fist to a vertical position.
The tightness of the hinge balls should be such that the moment required to turn the fist 10-15 ° in all directions from the vertical with the other fist clamped in a vise is 30-60 Nm (300-600 kgf / cm).
The difference in the moments of rotation of the fist in two mutually perpendicular directions of one hinge must not exceed 9.8 Nm (100 kgf/cm). To obtain the required tightness and ensure correct assembly, the balls must be sorted into 9 groups.
Dimensions of the diameters of the leading balls of the hinge of equal angular velocities in mm:
I……25.32-25.34 VI……25.42-25.44 II……25.34-25.36 VI……25.44-25.46 III……25.36-25.38 VIII……25.46-25.48 IV……25.38-25.40 IX……25.48-25.50 V……25.40-25.42
The diameter of the central ball is 26.988-0.05 mm. Each hinge must be assembled with balls of one group or two neighboring groups.
For example: two balls with a diameter of 25.41 mm and two balls with a diameter of 25.43 mm. When assembling balls of the same size, be sure to place diametrically opposite one another. The difference in the diameters of two pairs of balls of one hinge is allowed no more than 0.04 mm.
After assembly, run the hinge on the stand for 2 minutes at a speed of 4.8 s-1 (300 min-1) with an angle change from 0 to 30 °.
When running in, lubricate balls and grooves according to the lubrication table.
Front axle assembly
Assemble the front axle in the reverse order of disassembly, taking into account the following:
1. Press the bushing into the steering knuckle flush with the end face of the socket under the thrust washer. After pressing the sleeve, unfold and iron with a brooch to a diameter of 32 + 0.34 + 0.17 mm.
2. Limit the longitudinal movement of the constant velocity joint with thrust washers, one of which is installed in the ball joint, and the other in the trunnion.
Rice. 7 Installing the thrust washer:
1 - thrust washer; 2 - trunnion; 3 - ball bearing; 4 - bushing
The oil grooves of the thrust washers must face the pivot. To secure the washer in the socket, punch it out at 3-4 points evenly spaced around the circumference. The size from the plane of the thrust washer 1 (Fig. 7) to the flange of the trunnion 2 should be 7 + 0.08-0.26 mm, from the plane of the washer 1 to the center of the ball bearing 3 - 48.2 + 0.38 mm.
3. When replacing bushings of 4 pins in the ball joint, turn them after pressing them in to a diameter of 25 + 0.030 + 0.008 mm. The 24.995 mm diameter gauge must fit into both bushings at the same time.
4. When installing the joint, fill the ball joint with grease according to the lubrication table.
5. Lubricate the pivots and pivot bushings with liquid lubricant before assembly.
Rice. 8 Selection of shims:
1 - ball bearing; 2 - support washer; 3 - kingpin; 4 - shims; 5 - body of the rotary fist
The number of spacers to obtain certain axial interference in the pin bushings, select depending on size B (Fig. 8), consisting of the sum of the dimensions of the steering knuckle and adjusting shims, and size A, consisting of the sum of the dimensions of the ball joint, bearing washers and pivots. The number of pads must be at least five.
Measure under a load of 1.6 kN (160 kgf). Size A should be 0.02-0.10 mm larger than size B. Install shims from above and below on the ends of the steering knuckle housing. With an even number of gaskets of the same thickness, install the latter at the top and bottom in equal quantities.
With an even number of gaskets, but their different thicknesses, or with an odd number of gaskets, the difference between the total thickness of the upper and lower gaskets should not exceed 0.1 mm.
6. When assembling and installing the ball joint oil seal, soak its inner felt ring in warm engine oil.
7. After assembly, check the front axle on the stand under load and without it. The load is created by the simultaneous braking of both axle shafts.
A properly assembled front axle should not have increased noise and heating, as well as oil leakage through cuffs and seals, covers and bolted connections
Rear axle Timken UAZ
Possible malfunctions of the rear axle, their causes and methods of elimination
The rear axle UAZ 469 and UAZ 3151 require maintenance such as maintaining the oil level in the UAZ crankcase and replacing it in time, checking seals, timely detection and elimination of axial clearances in the final drive gears. Periodically clean the safety valve, tighten all fasteners.
If the oil in the crankcase is heavily contaminated or metal particles are noticed in it, then flush the crankcase with kerosene before filling in fresh oil. For flushing, pour 1-1.5 liters of kerosene into the crankcase; raise the wheels, start the engine and let
Let him work for 1.0-1.5 minutes, then drain the kerosene and fill in fresh oil.
Rice. 1 Rear axle:
The image is scaled down. Click to see original.
1 - safety valve; 2 - differential bearing; 3.8 - shims; 4 - rear bearing of the drive gear; 5 * - adjusting ring; 6 - oil ring; 7 - nut; 9- drive gear; 10 - front bearing drive gear; 11 - thrust washer side gear; 12 - driven gear.
(* Not installed since 1991)
The axial clearance of the drive gear of the set gear is not allowed. Check the clearance by rocking the drive gear by the driveshaft mounting flange. If during the operation of the vehicle an axial clearance of the drive gear exceeds 0.05 mm, tighten the nut 7 (1). Tightening torque - 167-206 Nm (17-21 kgf / m). If the clearance does not disappear, adjust as indicated in the chapter "Assembling and adjusting the rear axle assemblies?".
The axial clearance of the driven gear of the final drive is not allowed. Check it by moving the gear through the oil filler hole. To eliminate the gap, add sets of gaskets of equal thickness between the ends of the differential and bearings.
Do not add sets of shims of different thicknesses and do not install them on the same side of the driven gear, because. this will lead to a violation of the engagement of the worn-in gears and their rapid breakdown.
Repair
Disassembly of the rear axle
Disassemble the bridge in the following order:
Rice. 2 Installation of the bridge on the bench
1. Install the bridge on the stand (Fig. 2), unscrew the oil filler and oil drain plugs and drain the oil.
2. Turn away bolts of fastening of semiaxes and with their help remove semiaxes.
3. Turn away nuts and bolts of fastening of a cover and case, carefully separate the bridge into two parts. Remove the gasket.
4. Remove the driven gear differential assembly from the crankcase.
5. Remove the final drive gear. Without disassembling the bridge, it is impossible to remove the drive gear, since when the gear with bearings is pressed out of the axle housing, the rear bearing (with cylindrical rollers) will rest against the driven gear.
Rice. 3 Pressing out the pinion
To remove the drive gear, unpin and unscrew the nut on the shank, remove the washer and flange, unscrew the bolts and remove the drive gear front bearing cover. Remove the oil ring, press out the drive gear (Fig. 3) with the bearing assembly from the crankcase with a tool.
6. Disassemble the differential in the following order:
unscrew the bolts securing the driven gear to the satellite box; remove the driven gear;
turn away bolts of fastening of halves of a box of satellites;
Disconnect the right half of the satellite box from the left and remove the differential gears, pinion shafts and support washers.
Assessment of the technical condition of parts
After disassembling the bridge, thoroughly rinse the parts in kerosene and inspect. Replace gears with scoring and chipping on the teeth.
Rice. 4 Pressing out the outer ring of the differential bearing
Rice. 5 Removing the differential bearing inner race
Rice. 6 Removing the rear bearing from the drive gear
Rice. 7 Removing the front bearing from the drive gear
Replace worn bearings. If the bearings and related parts do not require replacement, then do not press out the bearing rings. Press out the outer rings of the bearings (Fig. 4) of the differential from the crankcase and cover and remove the inner rings (Fig. 5) of these bearings using tools. Removal of back and forward bearings of a leading gear wheel is shown on fig. 6 and fig. 7 The end of the neck, on which the rear bearing is pressed, is pierced, therefore, press it out only for replacement. When disassembling the bridge, do not dismantle the inner and outer rings of the bearings of the differential and the drive gear, and when assembling the bearings that cannot be replaced, install them in their original places.
The oil ring must have smooth ends. If necessary, grind it to a thickness of at least 5 mm.
cardan flange. The flange end mating with the oil ring must be smooth. If necessary, grind it to a height of at least 53 mm.
Bridge carter. Remove all roughness and burrs from the seating and adjacent surfaces of the crankcase. Clean the oil channels.
Differentials and half shafts. Thrust washers, satellite axles, satellites, axle gears and satellite boxes with scoring and severe wear, replace. Replace satellites and side gears as a set. Replace the side gear thrust washer if its thickness is less than 1.2 mm. When the ends of the satellite box are worn out, it is allowed to install washers increased in thickness by 0.1 mm or 0.2 mm.
When repairing the rear and front axles, use the data in Table. 3.7 and 3.8.
Assembly and adjustment of rear axle units
Assemble the differential in the following order:
1. Before assembling the differential, lubricate the gears of the axle shafts, satellites, thrust washers and the axles of the satellites with gear oil.
2. Install thrust washers on the axle shaft gear journals.
3. Install the axle gear with thrust washer assembly into the left satellite box.
4. Install the satellites on the axis of the split cross.
5. Install the split cross (fig. 8) with satellites in the left satellite box.
Rice. 9 Installation of boxes of satellites by labels
6. Install the axle gear with thrust washer assembly into the right satellite box. Holding the axle gear, install the right satellite cup on the left one so that the marks (Fig. 9) (serial numbers) of both cups are aligned.
7. Connect the halves with bolts and tighten them. Tightening torque 32-40 Nm (3.2-4.0 kgf).
8. Install the final drive gear on the pinion box, aligning the bolt holes. Install the bolts and tighten them. Tightening torque 98-137 Nm (10-14 kgf / m).
At the assembled differential, the gears of the semiaxes must be rotated using a splined mandrel from a force of not more than 59 N (6 kgf) applied at a radius of 80 mm.
Adjust the differential bearings (if they are replaced) in the following order:
Rice. 10 Pre-pressing the inner rings of the differential bearings
1. Press the inner rings of the bearings (Fig. 10) of the differential onto the necks of the assembled differential so that there is a gap of 3.5-4.0 mm between the ends of the satellite box and the ends of the inner rings of the bearings.
Rice. 11 Rolling in the differential bearing rollers
2. Install the differential assembly into the crankcase, then the gasket and crankcase cover, and turning the cover by the casing, roll the bearings so that the rollers are in the correct position (Fig. 11). Then use bolts and nuts to evenly connect the cover to the crankcase.
3. Unscrew the bolts again, carefully remove the cover, remove the differential from the crankcase and measure the gaps A and A1 (Fig. 13) between the ends of the inner bearing rings and the satellite box with a feeler gauge.
4. Select a package of gaskets with a thickness calculated using the formula:
s = A + A1 + 0.1, where: s thickness of the gasket package, mm;
A and A1 - gaps between the ends of the inner rings of the bearings and the satellite box, mm;
0.1 - constant value (to ensure preload), mm.
5. Remove the differential bearing inner races. Divide the selected gasket pack roughly in half. Install the gaskets on the necks of the satellite box and press on the inner races of the bearings until they stop.
Assemble and adjust the drive gear bearings in the following order:
Rice. 14 Punching the end of the shank after pressing the bearing:
A - the place of punching
Rice. 15 Installing the spacer and shims of the drive pinion front bearing
1. Press the bearings onto the drive gear. After pressing the rear support bearing with cylindrical rollers, open the end of the shank on which it is pressed (Fig. 14). Place the spacer sleeve (Fig. 15) and shims of the front bearing (double-bevel) of the drive gear between the inner rings.
2. Install the adjusting ring 5 (see Fig. 1) of the drive gear 9 (not installed since 1991).
Rice. 17 Checking the side clearance in the meshing of the main gear gears
2. Measure the backlash between the teeth of the driving and driven gears, which should be 0.2-0.6 mm. Measure on the drive gear flange at a radius of 40 mm (Fig. 17).
Adjust the side clearance by moving the spacers 3 (see Fig. 1) from one side of the differential box to the other. If you remove the gaskets from the side of the driven gear, then the gap in the engagement increases, if you add, the gap decreases. Rearrange the gaskets without changing their number, as this will violate the tightness of the differential bearings.
Rice. 18 Contact patch of main gear gears:
I - side of the forward course; II - reverse side; 1 - correct contact in the meshing of gears when checking under a small load; 2 - contact on the top of the tooth (for correction, the drive gear should be moved to the driven one); 3 - contact on the root of the tooth (for correction, the drive gear should be moved away from the driven gear); 4 - contact at the narrow end of the tooth (to correct, move the driven gear away from the drive gear); 5 - contact at the wide end of the tooth (to correct, move the driven gear to the leading one)
3. On bridges with an adjusting ring 5 (see Fig. 1), check the engagement of the gears along the contact patch. To do this, paint the teeth of the driven gear with paint. Keep in mind that very thin paint spreads, and too thick paint does not squeeze out of the gaps between the teeth. Then, using the axle shafts, slow down the driven gear, and rotate the drive gear in both directions until a clear contact patch is indicated. On fig. Figure 18 shows typical pinion gear tooth contact positions and how to correct improper contact. Move the drive gear by installing an adjusting ring 5 (see Fig. 1) of a different thickness. Move the driven gear by rearranging the gaskets 3 bearings of the differential.
Note!!! Perform the specified check of gear engagement on axles with final drives.
Rear axle assembly
Assemble the rear axle after adjusting the gear engagement in the following order:
1. Install a shim pack between the end of the pinion front bearing cap and the crankcase. The thickness of the package should be 1.3 times the gap (Fig. 19) between the ends of the cover and the crankcase. If necessary, increase the thickness of the package by 1.4 times.
2. Install the drive gear front bearing cap assembly and secure with the bolts.
3. Install flange and washer. Tighten nut 7 (see Fig. 1) to the full so that the slots in it coincide with the holes in the gear shank and cotter pin. Tightening torque 167-206 Nm (17-21 kgf / m). Do not unscrew the nut to match the groove and the cotter pin hole.
4. Install differential with driven gear and bearing assemblies into axle housing.
5. Install a gasket between the crankcase and cover.
6. Install the crankcase cover so that both spring pads are at the top of the axle. Connect the cover and crankcase with bolts and nuts.
7. Turning the pinion gear, check that there is no binding or interference in the assembled axle. After assembling the bridge, check its heating while driving. If the crankcase is very hot (over 90 °C), check the correct adjustment of the bearings
blog about the use of gearboxes from the Volga to UAZ →
Tags: timken bridge repair manual, uaz bridge repair,
UAZ-469, 452, 3303
The main advantage of UAZs is all-wheel drive. For this, the owner is ready to forgive the car for many shortcomings - high cross-country ability and simplicity of design make them bearable.
But over time, when driving with the “front end” turned on, an ominous crunch appears, the wheels “bite” slightly in corners. The reason, most likely, is the wear of the CV joints. And it develops if there is a longitudinal play in the hinge, due to wear of the thrust rings. At the next TO-2, it is worth checking their condition. For this:
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| With a "14" wrench, unscrew the six nuts of the coupling ... | ...and take it off. |
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| Grasping the splines of the drive, we move it towards ourselves and away from ourselves. If play is felt, the steering knuckle will have to be disassembled in order to replace the hinge thrust washers. | Unfolding the lock washer... |
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| ... and unscrew the nut. | Remove the lock washer. |
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| We unscrew the second nut and remove the bearing thrust ring. | Remove the outer bearing and hub. |
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| Using the "17" wrench, we unscrew the six bolts securing the brake shield and trunnion. | We remove the duster ... |
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| ...and brake assembly. And so as not to interfere - we put it on a spring. | We take the pin. |
Sometimes the hinge crumbles right in the hands. In order to make such a CV joint work further, it is necessary to eliminate the axial play and combine the axes of rotation of the hinge and the steering knuckle. When installing a new hinge, these conditions must also be observed, otherwise it will quickly fail.
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| ... remove the second support washer from the ball joint. |
We find the thickness C of the support washers by the formula: C \u003d (B-A) / 2, and their diameters correspond to the diameters of the sockets.
Backlash washers can be machined from steel (45 steel) and hardened. We press them into the trunnion and ball joint.
We assemble in the reverse order.
Having installed the trunnion and the brake shield, we check if there is any longitudinal play at the hinge and if it rotates freely. Do not over-compress the hinge. In this case, you need to remove the support washers and reduce their thickness.
UAZ bridges are rather capricious units. In a car service, for repairs with a complete disassembly of one bridge, they will take at least 2,000 rubles, plus the cost of spare parts and consumables. Therefore, many jeepers will be interested in learning how to do this work on their own.
The bridges of UAZ vehicles are very sensitive to the relative position of all their parts and assemblies. Access to these units for repair and adjustment is possible only after dismantling the bridge and disconnecting the halves of its crankcase. Consider the process of repair and adjustment using the example of the rear axle, since it begins to demand attention much faster than the front axle. This is due to the fact that UAZ SUVs make most of their mileage on paved roads. In this case, the front axle is disabled and wears out much less than the rear axle. The front axle is adjusted in the same way, only the procedure for removing the axle and disassembling it has some obvious differences.
In the event of a gearbox failure, when it is jammed or the operation is accompanied by loud noise, the need for repair is obvious. In addition, adjustment or repair of bridges may be required after monitoring their condition. In any case, we advise you to check the absence of radial play in the front tapered bearing of the drive gear: you need to shake the flange of the drive gear perpendicular to the axis by hand. Even the slightest play is a reason for adjustment. Lack of play in the bearings of the driven gear 
is determined by a screwdriver through the drain hole of the axle housing. A signal to check the condition of the gearbox can also serve as a slight noise that increases under load. Perhaps, such a barely audible noise that occurs when driving on an ascent revealed a malfunction, expressed in the appearance of shells on the rollers of the bearings of the driven gear (photo 1).
Of great difficulty, especially on cars that have "tasted" the salt of winter roads, is unscrewing the nuts of the brake pipes, without which the removal and disassembly of the bridge is impossible. Therefore, if disassembly of the bridge is planned, it is first necessary to ensure the free unscrewing of these nuts. Help in this hard work 
maybe a special split wrench with a tightening bolt and various lotions: WD-40 preparation, brake fluid and the like. In fairness, it must be admitted that in this case, none of the listed drugs helped, and the mobility of the nuts on the tubes was achieved with the help of the household cleaning drug "Drop" borrowed from the kitchen based on phosphoric acid. If not for him, I would have to buy new tubes.
After the problem with the brake pipes is solved and the necessary tools are assembled, you can begin to remove the rear axle.
We unscrew the four bolts with nuts securing the propeller shaft flange to the drive gear flange (photo 2, item 1), move the shaft aside and fix it.
We raise the rear of the car, for example with two jacks, by the frame so that the wheels come off the floor. 
We install additional safety stops. If the car breaks off the jacks, serious injury cannot be avoided!
Under the car we perform the following work. We unscrew the nut of the brake pipe from the brake hose (photo 3, item 1). The hose can be plugged with a suitable plug to reduce brake fluid loss. We unscrew the lower fastening nuts (photo 3, pos. 2) and shift the shock absorbers from the axis.
Attention: after carrying out the operation described below, the bridge will go down!
We unscrew the nuts of the ladders (photo 3, pos. 3). Now the bridge can be rolled out from under the car or, if the wheels have been previously removed, dragged out. Without wheels, it weighs 101 kilograms.
After removing the bridge, taking this opportunity, it is advisable to disassemble and lubricate the leaf springs with graphite or any 
other grease. For this:
- unscrew the nut of the tightening bolt passing through the holes in the center of all spring sheets, and remove the bolt;
- unbend the fixing clamps, after which the released sheets will fall down;
- We clean them from dirt and rust. We apply a thin layer of lubricant and assemble the springs.
We proceed to dismantle and repair the bridge. We will need the brake pipe wrench mentioned above, a metal angle with welded pins to fix the drive gear flange, a universal puller, a micrometer, a set of shims for the driven gear bearings, as well as a bottle of brake fluid and 0.85 liters of gear oil (do not fill in the drained from crankcase back). It is advisable to stock up on a set of cardboard spacers for the rear axle or a piece of thin thick cardboard for making such 
gaskets (photo 4).
We unscrew ten bolts securing the axle shaft to the hub (photo 5, pos. 1). Screwing the same bolts into the threaded holes on the axle shaft (photo 5, pos. 2) to facilitate removal, remove the axle shafts from the axle housing, trying not to damage the gaskets located between the flange and the hub.
We unscrew the nuts of the brake pipes from the tee and from the brake cylinders (photo 3, pos. 4). In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the nut rotates on the brake tube and does not twist it. We remove the tee from the bracket.
We unscrew the bolts and nuts connecting the halves of the crankcase (photo 2, pos. 2). We disconnect the halves of the crankcase, while trying to save the gasket (it will not be easy to find it later, you will have to make it yourself).
We take out the differential housing assembly with the driven gear.
We take out with the help of a puller the outer rings of the bearings from the halves of the crankcase. If it was not possible to find a suitable puller, you can remove them using a mounting tool (photo 6). At the same time, steps must be taken to 
protect the flanges of the crankcase halves at the point of their connection from damage.
If it is necessary to replace the gears of the main pair or differential (including the self-locking one), we unscrew the bolts securing the driven gear to the differential housing. We replace and install the driven gear on the differential housing.
With the help of a puller, we remove the inner rings of the bearings together with separators and rollers from the differential journals (photo 7).
We will return to adjusting the differential bearings later, but for now let's take a look at the drive gear.
The main support of the drive gear is the front double-row tapered roller bearing. The rear ball plays a supporting role. The reliability of the bridge largely depends on the condition of the front bearing. For adjustment, it is necessary to remove the drive gear from the right half of the crankcase. To do this, unscrew the bolts securing the front bearing cover (photo 2, pos. 3), mark the relative position of the cover (it is not symmetrical) and the crankcase (the marks made during disassembly will help you immediately find the desired position during assembly), press out or knock out with a punch from a soft metal rear bearing from its support in the crankcase.
We unpin the flange fastening nut and unscrew it (photo 8, pos. 1). To fix the flange from turning, we use a special key - a strong metal corner of about a meter in length with two pins welded on the end that enter the flange holes.
We remove the bearing cover with the stuffing box, while trying not to damage the cardboard gaskets located between them (photo 8, pos. 2). Using a puller, remove the front bearing from the axle (photo 9). 
All disassembled parts and assemblies must be carefully inspected and replaced as unusable.
There are shims between the inner rings of the drive gear bearing (shown by the arrow in photo 10). Using a micrometer, we measure the thickness of all gaskets, remove the thinnest one to create a preload in the bearing, and install the rest back. We press the bearing onto the shaft with a soft alloy hammer. We collect (photo 11), but without a cover with an oil seal. Tightening the nut with a torque of 17-21 kgf, hold the flange with a special key.
We check the resistance to turning the drive shaft in the bearing. A dynamometer, or simply a spring steelyard, fixed to a hole in the flange, should show 1.5-3.0 kgf for worn-in and 2.0-3.5 kgf for new bearings. If turning occurs with less effort, it is also necessary to reduce the total thickness of the shim pack. If turning becomes too tight, the thickness of the shim pack must be increased.
After selecting the required thickness of the gasket package, unscrew the nut, remove the flange and assemble the assembly again, but with the stuffing box cover.
When tightening the flange fastening nut, its reverse rotation to match the holes for the cotter pin must not be allowed, rotate only clockwise (for tightening).
Let's start adjusting the differential bearings. We press the outer rings of the tapered bearings into the halves of the crankcase, and press the inner rings of the bearings onto the necks of the differential box, leaving a gap between them and the box of 3.0-3.5 mm (shown by arrows in photo 12, which shows a self-locking differential without a driven gear).
We install the differential with the driven gear in the axle housing and tighten its halves with bolts, installing a cardboard gasket between them.
Through the hole in the drive gear (it has not yet been installed), we turn the driven gear so that the rollers take the correct position when tightening the bolts.
After tightening the bolts, unscrew them again and disconnect the crankcase halves.
We take out the differential and measure the resulting gaps between the ends of the differential housing and the inner rings of the bearings on both sides.
The sum of these gaps, plus 0.1 mm, indicates the required total thickness of the shims installed on both sides. Let's look at an example. The gap on the left was 1.0 mm, on the right - 2.5 mm, then the total thickness of the gaskets should be 3.6 mm.
We remove the inner rings of the bearings from the necks of the differential, put shims on the necks, aligning the cuts for the puller on them from the outside. In our example, spacers with a total thickness of 1.8 mm must be installed on each side. We press the inner rings of the bearings onto the necks of the differential housing. We install the drive gear assembly with bearings in the right half of the crankcase.
When installing the drive shaft in the rear axle housing, it must be taken into account that the rectangular cutouts on the inner edges of the cardboard spacers and the hole in the housing for grease access to the bearings must 
coincide. If during disassembly some of the cardboard spacers are torn, their total thickness must be restored.
We connect the halves of the crankcase together with the differential and check the play in the engagement of the gears of the main pair. When measured on the outer edge of the drive gear flange, it should be 0.35-0.77 mm. If the gap is larger, smaller or missing, you will have to rearrange the shims from one side of the differential to the other.
To do this, we disconnect the halves of the axle housing, take out the differential and remove the inner bearing rings from it with a puller. To reduce the gap, we reduce the thickness of the gaskets on the side of the teeth of the driven gear and vice versa. Let's say we need to reduce the gap. Let's rearrange the gasket with a thickness of 0.2 mm. Then the total thickness of the spacers on the side of the teeth will be 1.6 mm, and on the opposite side 2.0 mm.
We tighten the crankcase halves and again check the gap. If necessary, adjust the clearance again. To the touch, it appears as barely perceptible.
Bridges without final drives are not subject to checking and adjusting the meshing in the teeth of the gears of the final drive along the contact patch.
We complete the assembly of the bridge in the reverse order and install it on the car, while lubricating the threads of the bolts and nuts, discarding the unusable ones.
Pour 0.85 liters of gear oil into the crankcase of the bridge.
We bring the bridge under the springs and fix it with stepladders. We lay the brake pipes on the outside of the ladders.
We put the lower lugs of the shock absorbers on the axis of the bracket and fix them with nuts.
We screw the nuts of the brake pipe into the upper end of the brake hose. 
Using four bolts with nuts, we connect the flanges of the drive gear of the gearbox and the cardan shaft.
We pump the brakes.
This work is completed. If any parts of the gearbox have been replaced, a gentle operation is required to run them in. For at least a few hundred kilometers, high speed driving should be avoided. Ideally, the break-in regime of a new car should be observed. But, what is especially important, you should sometimes stop and test the temperature of the rear axle crankcase in the area of \u200b\u200bthe gearbox with your hand. It is good if the hand calmly withstands heat, but temperatures up to 90 ° C are considered acceptable. If the temperature is higher, this is a sign of improper adjustment. In this case, you can reassure yourself that the repeated procedure for disassembling the bridge will be easier, since all the stubborn nuts and bolts are lubricated and will come off easier than the first time.
AUTOMOBILIST'S TOOLS (NORMAL AND WINTER)
Having a full set of tools "on board" the car is a must. Agree, it’s a shame to stand on a deserted road due to some minor malfunction that could be fixed with, for example, an elementary Phillips screwdriver that is not in the tool bag.
When buying almost any Russian car, both used and new, a revision of the toolkit is simply necessary. It is mandatory to complete the tool bag. A complete set of tools for a new car is a rarity. You don't have to go far: when buying a new Volga GAZ-3110 in the spring, I missed more than five positions in the tool bag and - for dessert - a jack and a tire pump! The other day a friend bought a Gazelle Farmer from one of the major GAZ dealers in Nizhny Novgorod - there is no tool at all!
However, even fully equipped with a standard tool, it is not recommended to feel calm and secure. It is highly desirable to be understaffed. Here the other extreme is dangerous. There are those who like to carry with them a lot of unnecessary things, among which the necessary things may not be.
Based on my personal year-round experience of intensive operation of VAZ ("classic") cars, I can recommend the following set of running spare parts and additional tools for equipping a car, which once turned out to be extremely necessary in critical situations.
1. Movable contact of the breaker-distributor (slider) (1 pc.).
2. Cover of the breaker-distributor (1 pc.).
3. Rotor breaker-distributor (1 pc.).
4. Spark plugs (2 pcs.).
5. Spark plug tip (1 pc.).
6. High-voltage wire (cut) or one long wire for the 4th cylinder (1 meter).
7. Built-in voltage regulator with brush assembly, assembled or separately (1 pc.).
8. Ignition coil (1 pc.).
9. Rotor resistor (1 pc.).
10. Capacitor for the breaker-distributor (1 pc.).
11. Fan (generator) belt (1 pc.).
12. Gasoline pump diaphragm assembly (1 pc.).
13. Working brake cylinder or cuff of the working brake cylinder (2 pcs.).
14. Outer bearing of the front wheel hub (1 pc.).
15. Coupling spring for brake pads (1 pc.).
16. Shock absorber bush (1 pc.)
17. Ball joint upper and lower (1 pc. each).
18. Raw rubber.
19. Rubber material for patches and adhesive.
20. 12 V electric vulcanizer.
21. Brake fluid (400 ml).
22. Grease "Litol-24" (200 g).
23. Control light with wires (probe).
24. Wrench for fittings of pipelines, valves for air release (1 pc.).
25. Powerful awl for installing brake shoe coupling springs (1 pc.).
26. Indicator for checking the operability of the high-voltage circuit of the ignition system (1 pc.).
27. Fuses of the electrical system for 16 and 8 amperes (4 pcs.).
28. Can of WD-40 (1 pc.).
In addition to all of the above, it is useful to have various home-made devices for car repairs on the road, according to numerous tips from experienced motorists. Materials about this are systematically published on the pages of the Birzha plus Avto newspaper.
Winter is coming with its own characteristics of operation, and the "on-board" toolkit of the car must be supplemented. Again, arm yourself with tips for winter operation, and on the road, with little or no increase in the weight of the car, it is recommended to take winter gadgets with you. We will talk about autochemical preparations, which are the most effective for the tasks set and are currently readily available.
1. Silicone grease for rubber seals. Prevents freezing of doors, which is especially important after a thaw or after visiting a car wash.
2. Means for defrosting windows and locks (no comment needed).
3. Aerosols that give glass water-repellent and anti-fog properties. A transparent super-slippery film that appears on the glass after treatment with the drug significantly improves visibility in snowfalls.
4. Aerosol that restores the elasticity of tension belts. The belts "hardened" in the cold not only squeal disgustingly, but also slip on the pulleys. The drug will prevent this.
5. Spray with insulating paint for the ignition system. Sprayed with this agent, the breaker-distributor (distributor), high-voltage wires and the ignition coil will "hold" the spark much more reliably. However, the already recommended WD-40 preparation is also suitable for these purposes.
6. A bottle of moisture neutralizer for fuel systems. There is enough water in the gasoline, and the catalytic converter will prevent the fuel lines from freezing and clogging. For these purposes, the author has been using the preparation "Aspect-modifier. Anti-ice" with great success for a number of years.
For successful winter operation of cars, readers need to carefully monitor the relevant information on the pages of our newspaper.